Country Life Guernsey Pages: 18th August 2021

Page 1

Guernsey SUMMER 2021

BESIDE THE SEA Soaking up the Bailiwick’s beauty

Discover the best places to explore by boat PAGE 40 CLI318.guernsey_cover.indd 35

View covetable properties for sale on the island PAGE 50 11/08/2021 13:36


A Piece of Paradise Village de Putron, Guernsey St. Peter Port: 1 mile Inspirational property combining luxurious finishes and international influences; an outstanding home with panoramic sea and island views. 3 reception rooms, 5 bedrooms (4 en suite), further bathroom, study, snooker room, cocktail bar, wine cellar, guest annexe, quadruple garage, greenhouse and stunning gardens.

About 1.65 acres | Asking price £16 million


Richard Fox Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 richard.fox @savills.com

Nick Paluch Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 nick.paluch @savills.com

Lindsay Cuthill Savills London Country Department 020 3504 2191 lcuthill@savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Superb Georgian Townhouse St. Peter Port, Guernsey Regency architecture combined in immaculate style with contemporary finishes, in a sought-after residential location. 3 reception rooms, 6 bedrooms (3 en suite), breakfast room, media room, home office/library, utility room, garden pavilion, garage and walled garden. Price on application Richard Fox Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 richard.fox @savills.com

Nick Paluch Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 nick.paluch @savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Outstanding Country Home St. Andrew, Guernsey St. Peter Port: 4 miles A traditional Guernsey property in beautiful rural surroundings. 3 reception rooms, 4 bedroom suites, further bedroom, further bathroom, guest suite, snug, snooker room, games room, office/boardroom, conservatory, swimming pool, workshop, triple garage, gardens and paddock. About 4.6 acres | Asking price £5.95 million Richard Fox Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 richard.fox @savills.com

Nick Paluch Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 nick.paluch @savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Beautiful Georgian Home St. Annes, Alderney St. Peter Port: 21 miles, Southampton: 113 miles Stunning and totally refurbished home in Alderney. 7 reception rooms, 6 bedrooms (4 en suite), further bathroom, dressing room, utility room, linen room, self-contained guest/staff annexe and west-facing gardens with sea views. Asking price £3.75 million Keith Enevoldsen Savills Guernsey 01481 713463 keith.enevoldsen @savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Prestigious Modern Home St. Peter Port, Guernsey St. Peter Port: 1 mile A stylish contemporary home situated on an elevated and secluded site above St. Peter Port. 5 reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast room, 5 bedrooms (3 en suite), further bathroom, office, snooker room, games room, utility room, garage, further parking and garden. About 1.6 acres | Asking price £5.25 million Richard Fox Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 richard.fox @savills.com

Nick Paluch Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 nick.paluch @savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Stunning Penthouse St. Peter Port, Guernsey A spacious well-appointed penthouse with a private roof terrace and sea views. Open-plan reception room, 2 bedroom suites, dressing room, cloakroom, utility room and garaging. Asking price £2.65 million Richard Fox Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 richard.fox @savills.com

Nick Paluch Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 nick.paluch @savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Characterful Farmhouse St. Saviour, Guernsey St. Peter Port: 6 miles Delightful granite farmhouse with two income producing apartments in a quiet location within the island’s most rural parish. 3 reception rooms, 7 en suite bedrooms, study, snug, swimming pool, barn conversion, 2 apartments, pool house, parking and gardens. About 0.75 acres | Asking price £2.95 million Richard Fox Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 richard.fox @savills.com

Nick Paluch Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 nick.paluch @savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Substantial Neo-Georgian Home St. Peter Port, Guernsey An immaculate, beautifully appointed and traditionally proportioned property situated close to the centre of St. Peter Port. 2/3 reception rooms, 4 bedrooms (1 en suite), further bathroom, snug, utility room, garage, parking and garden. About 0.2 acres | Asking price £1.85 million

Richard Fox Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 richard.fox @savills.com

Charming House with Rural Views St. Martin, Guernsey Elegant period property with beautiful gardens; close to Fermain Bay and coastal walks. 2 reception rooms, 3 bedrooms (2 en suite), 2 dressing rooms, office, garden room, garage, parking, sun terrace and gardens. About 0.3 acres | Asking price £2.25 million

Nick Paluch Savills Guernsey 01481 713 463 nick.paluch @savills.com

savills

savills.gg


Grab a bite on the way home With a warmer climate, 29 miles of stunning coastline and only a short commute, we have a mouth-watering work-life balance. Isn’t it time you made Guernsey your home?

Talk to us to discover how easy a move to Guernsey can be.

To start your journey call the Locate Guernsey team on +44 (0)1481 220011, email enquiries @ locateguernsey.com, or visit locateguernsey.com Follow us. Search: LocateGuernsey

A better life for you


Strange, but true • Guernsey is using beer mats to help fight Asian hornets. The mats show a life-size picture of the invasive insect and explain what people need to do if they spot one • Until the early 19th century, the island was split into two at high tide, as water flooded a low-lying area called Braye du Valle. Engineering work at both ends of the area (Grande Havre and St Sampson) solved the problem in 1808 • One of the most popular dolls in Victorian Guernsey was Cobo Alice, a rag doll originally made from sailcloth and sawdust by the wife of a fisherman from Cobo, on Guernsey’s western shore. The originals are still sought after today and there are knitting patterns available online for those who would like to make their own

True blue

G

UERNSEY celebrates a marine-protection milestone this year—the 15th anniversary of its first Ramsar site. In 2006, 35 years after the convention to recognise and protect wetlands of international importance was signed in the Iranian city of Ramsar, Guernsey designated L’Erée headland and the island of Lihou as its first protected wetland under the treaty (Alderney beat its larger neighbour by one year, naming its own west coast and the Burhou islands in 2005). A great spot for birdwatchers, the area, which has a wide range of habitats in a relatively small stretch, teems with oystercatchers, seals, basking sharks and rare seaweed—the Lihou shoreline alone (above) has 214 different species. With Sark designating the Gouliot caves and headland in 2007 and Guernsey naming a second wetland, Herm, Jethou and The Humps in 2015, the wider Bailiwick of Guernsey now has a Ramsar site covering each of its main islands.

• The island made it into Guinness World Records in 2006 for the largest underwater cycle race (for a time, it also held the record for the longest human chain of people patting each other on the back, before being beaten by India) • When SS Briseis was wrecked off Guernsey in 1937, the Algerian wine casks it carried reached the island’s shores, much to the enjoyment of the locals, who indulged with gusto

A feast for the palate N autumn, when the nights draw in and tourist numbers dwindle, Guernsey residents prepare to enjoy the Tennerfest Food Festival, a six-week celebration of local produce, which restaurants across the Bailiwick offer in affordable fixed-price menus. Originally, these were £10 set menus—hence the festival’s name—but with an increasing number of places signing up to the initiative, the cost now reflects the quality of the restaurant, although it remains very modest (usually between £10 and £20). The festival takes place from October 1 to November 11 and it’s an opportunity to discover new favourites on Guernsey and beyond. Stocks Hotel in Sark, which is known for championing local produce (it grows its own vegetables and sources Sark meat, eggs and fish), has signed up for the 2021 festival and Alderney restaurants took part for the first time in 2020. Whether you’re looking for traditional Guernsey dishes such as bean jar or gâche melée (an apple dessert), a seafood platter to share or wish to sample some international cuisine, you will find a restaurant to suit you (www.tennerfest.com). Antonia Windsor

Alamy; VisitGuernsey;

I

36

CLI318.guernsey_news.indd 36

12/08/2021 14:31


News It’s not clear why William Collings, Seigneur of Sark, blasted the Window in the Rock at Port du Moulin in the 1850s. Perhaps it was to encourage visitors to come to the area, haul seaweed or simply enjoy the panorama. There is no doubt that the view of Les Autelets from this spot is nothing short of magnificent

Don’t miss Sark’s Museum Retrace the island’s history and learn about the attempted invasion by a lone Frenchman in 1990 Seeing Guernsey from a different angle Take a TukTuk tour on land (www. visitguernsey.com/see-and-do/ things-to-do/tuk-tuk-tours) or explore the sea by jet ski (www. visitguernsey.com/see-and-do/ things-to-do/jp-s-jetski-seafaris), rib (islandribvoyages.com), paddleboard or kayak (www. outdoorguernsey.gg)

A perfect union

T

HIS year marks the centenary of Guernsey’s currency union with the UK. Despite having been ruled by the English Crown since the time of William the Conqueror, the Channel island used the French livres (later, French francs) well into the 19th century. Change came in 1827, when the local parliament, the States of Guernsey, introduced a pound banknote and, from 1830, a copper coin, the double, worth 1/80 of a franc. In the following decades, an unusual monetary system saw the French currency coexist at times with the sterling (which was made legal tender in 1848, reneged in 1850 and adopted once again in 1870 for British coins and 1873 for banknotes). When Guernsey issued its banknotes in 1914, some of the denominations were in Guernsey shillings and francs. After the First World War, the value of the franc plummeted and Guernsey fully embraced the pound, entering the currency union with the UK in 1921. Bizarrely, doubles continued to circulate until the 1960s. Today, the Guernsey pound is used, together with other versions, whether English, Scottish or Manx. However, the reverse is not true and the Guernsey pound is not legal tender in the UK.

Alamy; VisitGuernsey;

LIT TLE BL ACK BOOK Ben Le Prevost Chocolatier, St Peter Port Whether salted caramel or more unusual flavours such as mango or pineapple and fennel, the chocolates by this award-winning chocolatier are as beautiful as they are delicious

international restaurant looks out towards Castle Cornet, Herm, Jethou and Sark

Bruce Russell, St Saviour Have a bite to eat before perusing necklaces, rings and silverware at this jewellers and restaurant set in lush, stream-coursed grounds

The Juggling King, St Peter Port Try seed-to-bottle rum made by this company, which takes inspiration from Guernsey’s privateering history

Octopus, St Peter Port Named after the villain in Victor Hugo’s The Toilers of the Sea, this

Le Gouffre Café and Restaurant, Rue de Gouffre Enjoy fresh seafood and spectacular views at this clifftop eatery

26, Cornet Street, St Peter Port The oldest townhouse in the capital is now a Victorian shop and parlour run by the National Trust of Guernsey

Candle-making with the children Guernsey Candles (www.face book.com/GuernseyCandles/) runs a workshop where children can make or carve their own candles. If you’d rather buy them readymade, Guernsey Candles sells a selection or you can try Wined Down Candles, a little stall that offers soy candles handcrafted using old wine bottles Fort Grey Shipwreck Museum Find out about the most dramatic or the weirdest shipwrecks off the coast and take in spectacular views of Les Hanois Lighthouse Guernsey Hedge Veg Use this website to discover fresh fruit, vegetables, plants and food and product stalls around the island (www.hedgeveg.gg) Guernsey jumpers Find the famous knits at Guernsey Woollens (www.guernseywoollens. com), Le Tricoteur (letricoteur.co) or Channel Jumper in Alderney (www.channeljumper.com). Guernsey jumpers are apparently hugely popular as far afield as South Korea and Japan

Editor Carla Passino Editor-in-chief Mark Hedges Art Heather Clark, Sarah Readman, Ben Harris, Dean Usher Pictures Lucy Ford

Sub-editing Octavia Pollock, James Fisher Advertising Oliver Pearson 07961 800887 Email firstname. surname@futurenet.com

37

CLI318.guernsey_news.indd 37

12/08/2021 14:31


If you are considering relocating to Guernsey, we have the local knowledge and experience to guide you and your family through all aspects of your move.

R E L AT E D S E RV I C E S

We can introduce you to the key people involved in the residency application process and provide specialist legal advice in relation to relocation; residential and commercial property; Guernsey tax and the implications of becoming a Guernsey tax resident; relocating your assets, investments and business interests; and helping your key employees move to the Island.

⁄ Manager Relocation

⁄ Relocation ⁄ Private Client ⁄ Residential and Commercial Property ⁄ Trusts and Estate Planning ⁄ Wills and Inheritance ⁄ Corporate Law ⁄ Regulatory ⁄ Family Office ⁄ Foundations and Philanthropy ⁄ Employment, Pensions and Incentives

To discuss your requirements in confidence, please contact:

Russell Clark

Davey Le Marquand

D +44 (0)1481 732049 E russell.clark@careyolsen.com

D +44 (0)1481 732009 E davey.lemarquand@careyolsen.com

Partner, Trusts and Private Wealth

Partner, Property

Jason Morgan Partner, Property

D +44 (0)1481 741563 E jason.morgan@careyolsen.com Image courtesy of VisitGuernsey

With you every step of the way O F F S H O R E L AW S P EC I A L I ST S B E R M U DA C AP E TOWN

BR I TI S H V I RGI N I S LAN DS HO NG KO NG

LO ND ON

BIGGER PICTURE C AYMAN I SLA ND S SINGAP OR E

G U ER NSEY

JER SEY

careyolsen.com


Saye Farm Alderney Escape to a hidden gem in the Channel Islands to enjoy a simple safe island life surrounded by natural beauty. A dream property with beautiful sea views and only five minutes walk from a stunning unspoilt secluded beach. Unique and peaceful farmhouse Five bedrooms and three bathrooms Wonderful site in ½ acre of mature gardens Spectacular location Garage and parking

£895,000

Call +44 (0) 1481 711766 | Email sales@swoffers.co.uk swoffers.co.uk


W

ITH its steady winds blowing across crystal-clear waters and endless supply of dramatic, craggy-cliffed coves that harbour secret beaches, Guernsey is a sailor’s dream. The Bailiwick has a seafaring heritage that goes back almost as far as human history— it is believed that people first travelled here by boat, possibly as early as 4000BC. Guernsey’s strategic position in the English Channel, less than 30 miles from Normandy, allowed it to benefit from seaborne trade—in the 17th century, privateering became a key source of income. Today, the boating scene is, thankfully, less bloodthirsty. The Bailiwick is made up of eight islands, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm, and the smaller islets of Brecqhou, Jethou, Burhou and Lihou. Archipelagos make the best

A sailor’s playground From pristine bays and teal waters to seals and puffins, Emma Bamford relishes boating around Guernsey destinations for boating holidays, providing a menu of islands to explore, anchorages to suit different weather conditions and plenty of adventures. I’ve sailed all over the world and I’d say this area is a perfect cross between the seascapes of the Bahamas and Sardinia, with the same laid-back ambience of Greece. Add good seafood (the ormer mollusc is a soughtafter local delicacy), the kind of wildlife you might spot in Scandinavia—think puffins and seals—and fine French weather, and

sailing around this Crown dependency starts to feel as fresh as travelling abroad. The Guernsey Yacht Club, in St Peter Port, celebrated its 130th anniversary last year and its commodore, Anna Rivers, says there’s a vibrant boating scene on the island. ‘The best way to travel between islands is by boat. At the club, we see lots of families—we introduce children to sailing and water confidence from five years old—and in the past two years we have also seen lots of people moving to

40

CLI318.guernsey_boating.indd 40

11/08/2021 10:58


Guernsey Boating

the island, many of whom are experienced sailors, but are cautious of our strong tides and rocks and are looking to cruise in company and understand the waters.’ As the tidal range in the area is substantial, falling almost 33ft in 12 hours, all of the islands increase dramatically in size at low tide, providing an opportunity to explore shorelines, caves and large bays. ‘They’re teeming with life,’ says Mrs Rivers, who makes the most of the waters with her six sailing dinghies and a 34ft Maxi, Ariel. ‘Have a ramble along the rock pools looking for hermit crabs, sea hares, sea horses, cowries and starfish.’ Guernsey itself offers multiple sheltered, striking anchorages in the south and east (the wild west coast, exposed to the weather, is not advised), but make sure you set off early from St Peter Port. ‘Catching the

sunrise is a must,’ advises Mrs Rivers, ‘with the warm glow rising behind Herm and bouncing off the pink granite on the 800-year-old Castle Cornet.’

Catching the sunrise is a must, with the warm glow bouncing off Castle Cornet On the east coast, Fermain Bay is a beautiful anchorage, where steep cliffs and lush woodland wrap around a shingle beach lapped by teal water. Row ashore to take a closer look at the 18th-century watchtower, a National Trust holiday property, then hike up the hill to walk some or all of the 28 miles of coastal

The busy harbour of St Peter Port is at the heart of Guernsey’s boating scene

cliffs. In April, there’s an explosion of colour as the bluebells emerge. During other months, miniature lilac sand crocuses and bold pink sea thrift brighten the landscape. On the south coast, locals recommend Petit Port, a pristine sandy bay surrounded by high cliffs. On a low spring tide, it’s possible to walk across to Moulin Huet Bay. This secluded cove, where crabs scuttle among the craggy exposed rocks that dot the swimming beach, has amazing views of the cliffs. It takes a little longer to reach Sark, about seven nautical miles from St Peter Port, but visiting it is like going back in time. There are no cars on the three-mile-long island and people get about on foot, on bike or by horse and carriage. Pick up a visitor’s mooring 41

CLI318.guernsey_boating.indd 41

11/08/2021 10:58


Left: The view from Guernsey’s south coast looking over Petit Port Bay. Right: The crystal-clear waters of Moulin Huet Bay at Havre Gosselin on the east coast and climb the path to the Pilcher monument to enjoy the view across to the private island of Brecqhou, or anchor at Dixcart Bay and explore the caves by paddleboard. Marvel at the rainbowcoloured anemones in the Gouliot caves on the west coast and take a dip in the Venus natural rock pool in the south of Little Sark—the best time to swim is two hours either side of high water. Back on board, keep an eye out at dusk for rare horseshoe bats—and, on a clear night, camp out on deck: with no street lights, the awesome beauty of the Milky Way dusting the sky is plain to see. In fact, it’s so visible that locals use it to navigate. Herm should be on the to-visit list for anyone boating in the Bailiwick. ‘I never tire of Herm,’ says Mrs Rivers. ‘The white sands and aquamarine sea is as close to the Caribbean as you will find.’ For such a small place—only a mile long—it has plenty of anchorages. A popular place to rent a kayak or paddleboard is striking

Shell Beach, with its white sand made from tiny shell fragments deposited by the Gulf Stream. It can be busy, so a tip is to anchor at Belvoir Bay, just south. Puffins nest here (other seabirds local to the islands include gannets, storm petrels, gulls, shags, cormorants and rock pipits) and seals can often be seen basking on rocks known as The Humps. After an active day, relax on board with a sundowner—from here, you can watch the sun disappear behind Guernsey. In the morning, oystercatchers are likely to form your dawn chorus. Wildlife is also abundant on Alderney, the third-largest Channel Island, about 12 nautical miles north-east of Herm. You might even have a friend or two tag along for the ride. ‘There is every chance of dolphins following you as they revel in our waters and numbers are steadily increasing,’ explains Mrs Rivers, who reveals that rare creatures ranging from royal terns to a ‘very lost’ humpback whale and leatherback turtles

have been seen in the area. A bearded vulture was also spotted flying over Alderney, which is home to a small population of blonde hedgehogs. Round off your trip with a climb to the top of the 105ft Mannez Lighthouse for views across to the French coast. Craggy coves, sandy beaches, clear waters, starry skies and the fun of challenging tides: for the sailor, Guernsey really does offer it all.

Tides and moorings

The Channel Islands are famous for their rocky approaches, massive tidal ranges and fierce tidal races of up to six knots through the channels. ‘We know that the tidal range can be off-putting, but it has so many benefits,’ Mrs Rivers says, citing the clear water and range of aquatic wildlife. ‘The Guernsey Yacht Club offers advice to anybody thinking of visiting the islands and we’re happy to help with any navigation or pilotage once they are here.’ The main visitor marina in Guernsey, Victoria Marina, is in St Peter Port, (www.guernseyharbours.gov.gg). Beaucette marina in the north will accept visitors, but be sure to make contact in advance (01481 245000; beaucette.com). Around the islands there are visitor moorings and multiple anchorages (see www.harbours.gg for more information). Covid-related issues are affecting charter offerings in Guernsey at present, but, for future bookings, try www.swanyachtcharter. co.uk or www.theglobesailor.com

Above: Youngsters at Guernsey Yacht Club. Right: Alderney’s 105ft Mannez Lighthouse

CLI318.guernsey_boating.indd 42

11/08/2021 10:58


Rare Regency Elegance Substantial Elegant Regency Home Elevated St Peter Port location Lovely sea and garden views South facing mature walled garden Over 10,000 square feet of accommodation Six bedrooms and six bathrooms Seven reception rooms Lift access between three floors Garage and parking

St Peter Port, Guernsey, POA

Call +44 (0) 1481 711766 | Email sales@swoffers.co.uk swoffers.co.uk


Under the Guernsey stars

K

From dark skies to wild coastlines and magnificent gardens, Antonia Windsor revels in the Bailiwick’s spectacular natural world

EEP looking right above that tree and you’ll begin to see it in a minute,’ says Reg Guille, secretary of the Sark Astronomy Society. I follow where his hand is pointing to a lazuline patch of night sky. Slowly, a pin-prick of light emerges and gradually gets brighter until it is nearly as bright as the moon. It is moving slowly but determinedly across the great expanse of stars above us. ‘That’s the International Space Station,’ Mr Guille says with all the excitement of

a seven-year-old having found a piece of missing Lego. I watch in awe with the huddle of other astro-enthusiasts standing shoulderto-shoulder in Sark’s shed-like observatory at the end of a hay field. ‘It’s travelling at a little more than 17,000 miles per hour. They might be able to make out the lights of St Peter Port in Guernsey if they look out the window —but they won’t see us because we are dark.’ Ten years ago, in the autumn of 2011, Sark became the world’s first designated Dark Sky Island. There are no cars, so, when darkness

falls, it isn’t broken by street lighting or vehicle headlights and the population of about 550 people know not to direct any outdoor lights up into the firmament. ‘We are coming up for our 10-year anniversary,’ notes Mr Guille. ‘Each year, we have to submit paperwork to prove we remain dark.’ That’s not a hard task because things don’t change fast on Sark, which operated a feudal system of government as recently as 2008 and has a tractor-drawn fire engine and ambulance. Stumbling out of the observatory, I notice a hedgehog curled

44

CLI318.guernsey_nature.indd 44

12/08/2021 10:40


Nature

Left: The plunging cliffs of Sark. Above: Gannets on Les Etacs, off Alderney. Below: A star trail above Sark, a Dark Sky Island. Inset below: Atlantic grey seals can be seen off Herm

up in the grass by my bicycle. As I turn on my bike light to get a closer look, I wince: my eyes had adjusted to the darkness. I cycle off with the light transforming the dark path into shades of grey, like a pencil drawing. When the colours return with the sun in the morning, it seems as if the vibrancy is intensified. The reds and pinks of the petunias that crowd hanging baskets and window boxes along the dusty main street (‘the Avenue’), the yellows and reds of buttercups and poppies that dot the meadows and the cornflower blue of the sky are bold against the gamut of greens on the tree-lined paths that crisscross this bijou island—a mere three miles by one

There are no cars, so darkness isn’t broken by street lighting or vehicle headlights mile in size. Although cycling is exhilarating, walking allows you to slow down to the Sark pace of life. The island is surrounded by cliffs and so most of the paths down to the hidden coves and beaches need to be navigated on foot. Once you have scrambled down, you are greeted with sweeps of golden sand and multiple caves to explore. If the expanse of sky is the main attraction at night, then the expanse of sea is what

draws the attention by day. Wherever you are in the islands that make up the Bailiwick of Guernsey, the seascape is ever changing. From the drama of the crashing waves on a stormy day on Guernsey’s west coast to the dramatic rocks at Moulin Huet Bay, which inspired Renoir (one of the views he painted hangs in the National Gallery), each time you look out to sea, the picture is different. On a low tide, the water almost completely disappears, leaving a tangle of seaweed and rocks. On one such tide, I meet up with the ‘vraic man’, Ben Tustin of Guernsey Seaweed, to find out which seaweeds are edible (all of them) and the different tastes and textures of each. During a 1½ hour walk, Mr Tustin shares his passion for sea plants and explains their names and their nutritional and medicinal qualities: he pops a bladderwrack and I use 45

CLI318.guernsey_nature.indd 45

12/08/2021 10:40


the juice as a moisturiser on my hands— it is absorbed incredibly quickly. But when the tide is high, nothing beats exploring the coast by boat. The waters around the island of Herm are well known nesting grounds for Atlantic grey seals and puffins, best viewed during a wildlife tour with Island RIB Voyages. On an hour-long trip from Guernsey, I spot the inquisitive heads of seals bobbing in the water around the Humps, an archipelago of tiny islands off the coast of Herm. When the tide is lower, I’m told you may see them basking on the rocks.

The Seigneurie gardens are a riot of colour, with roses and clematis Above and right: The 19th-century Candie Gardens, home to a statue of Victor Hugo gannet colony on the rocks of Les Etacs, 328ft off the coast. There, between February and late September, nearly 2% of the world’s gannet population congregates, with almost 12,000 birds fighting for a spot of rock to call their own. There are puffins, too, on the uninhabited offshore island of Burhou, which you can reach on your way to and from the gannets with a seabird boat tour on the Alderney Wildlife Trust’s work boat, the Sula of Braye.

Above: Moulin Huet Bay, Guernsey by Renoir (1883). Right: Puffins can be seen at Puffin Bay in Herm and Burhou island, off Alderney

Getty; Alamy

The colony has up to 30 seals, so although a sighting isn’t guaranteed, you would have to be rather unlucky not to spot one. If you are visiting between April and July, you can continue round to Puffin Bay for a close-up view of these pretty black and white birds with their distinctive orange beaks. You might also see dolphins, who often play in the water between Guernsey and Herm, as well as guillemots, oystercatchers and shags flitting between the rocks. Birdwatching is equally entrancing on Alderney, the northernmost of the Channel Islands. It only takes a short boat trip to reach the cacophony of squawking that is the

46

CLI318.guernsey_nature.indd 46

12/08/2021 10:40


Getty; Alamy

Nature

Of course, not all the landscapes in the Bailiwick are dramatic and wild and untamed. Farming has a long tradition in the islands and a walk through the orchards at cidermakers Rocquette in Guernsey reveals its gentle beauty. Here, 5,000 apple trees are planted in neat rows in Fauxquets Valley, in the rural heart of Guernsey. Stand at the tasting barn with a glass of chilled cider in hand and look up the valley at more than 20 acres of trees and you won’t see another building. Tamed nature of a different kind awaits in the many gardens throughout the Bailiwick. In Sark, the Seigneurie gardens are a riot of colour, with roses and clematis

CLI318.guernsey_nature.indd 47

in formal gardens and 19th-century vines in Victorian greenhouses. Guernsey’s Candie Gardens has a new Victor Hugo garden, a curve of planted beds next to the great French writer’s statue (Hugo lived in exile on Guernsey for 15 years). Plants have been chosen because their names reflect those of people in his life (an ‘Alexandre Dumas’ rose, for example), or because they were favourites and appeared in his work (such as the periwinkle). There are also quotations from his books on plaques throughout the garden, including one from Les Misérables: ‘Indeed, what more could you

want? A little garden to amble about in, and infinite space to dream in. At his feet whatever could be grown and gathered, over his head, whatever could be studied and meditated upon; a few flowers on the ground and all the stars in the sky.’ He might have been describing the Bailiwick of Guernsey.

12/08/2021 10:40


GEORGIAN TOWNHOUSE IN SAINT PETER PORT move in condition

ALL ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES RESTORED

Three reception rooms leading onto a 60 square meter wrap-around conservatory built in 2020, with two sitting areas and a dining area on a glass floor over a below courtyard. Both ground and first floors have 3.65-meter ceiling heights.

6/7 bedrooms • 6 bathrooms • formal dining room • two bedroom service flat • cellar • front and back garden • Owner open to renting from buyer/investor

Tel No - 0044 (0)7781 174418 YANN HALF.indd 1

CLF FP.indd 1

10/08/2021 10:10 10/08/2021 15:24


There has never been a better time to relocate to Guernsey Swoffers has unrivalled experience in Guernsey’s property market. We have the most experienced team of property experts on the Island and typically sell in excess of 50% of all Open Market Homes every year. We pride ourselves on finding the right property for those wishing to relocate to our beautiful island and aim to make the process as seamless as possible. Get in touch today to discuss how we can help make Guernsey your new home.

4 Infinity Views | £2,250,000* 4 Infinity Views is a rare find - modern property located in a quiet location in St Peter Port with a south facing garden, stunning sea views and parking. 4 Bedrooms | Luxurious specification | Superb sea views

Lombardy House | £2,450,000* Lombardy House is centrally located in Guernsey’s capital, St Peter Port. A stunning property that features breath-taking views of and harbour and the surrounding islands. 3 Bedrooms | 2 Reception rooms | Parking *There is an income tax cap of £50,000 per annum, for up to four years, for individuals becoming principally resident in Guernsey who purchase an Open Market home over £1.32m. The purchase must be either 12 months before or after becoming resident in Guernsey.

Call +44 (0) 1481 711766 | Email sales@swoffers.co.uk

swoffers.co.uk


Island retreat Holly Kirkwood has the pick of properties for sale on the Guernsey open market St Peter Port town, Price on application One of the finest Georgian properties in Guernsey, Candie House is a substantial Regency townhouse dating from 1830. With immaculate period details throughout, it has four handsome reception rooms, five double bedrooms and four bathrooms, which combine traditional character with modern style. Outside, the Palladian pavilion stands within ornamental gardens. The house offers complete privacy in a sought-after location next to Cambridge Park, a short walk from St Peter Port. Savills (01481 713463); Swoffers (01481 711766)

Castel, £2.75 million Built by one of Guernsey’s most distinguished families in the style of a Breton château, 18thcentury Carteret Manor has been extensively refurbished and modernised by its current owners. The accommodation comprises five bedrooms, six reception rooms and five bathrooms; outside, the walled gardens boast a swimming pool and tennis court. The bestloved beaches on the island’s west coast are only minutes away. Cooper Brouard (01481 236039); Savills (01481 713463)

50

CLI318.guernsey_property.indd 50

12/08/2021 14:22


Properties

St Peter Port town, £2.45 million It’s extremely rare for a house that overlooks the harbour of St Peter Port to come onto the market and the views (above) from Lombardy House are nothing less than spectacular, taking in Alderney, Jersey, Herm and Sark. For those considering a property in town, this is a spacious lock-up-and-leave option, with three panoramic bedroom suites and two reception rooms. A small garage and a suite of offices with planning permission for a residential unit are included in the sale. Swoffers (01481 711766)

St Peter Port parish, £1.75 million The clifftops in the south of Guernsey are famous for providing some of the finest sea views across the Channel Islands and the new owner of Spindrift will be able to make the most of this property’s superb location. The house has two/three bedrooms, with flexible living spaces and magnificent south-facing gardens. The interiors could benefit from some updating, providing an opportunity for the new owners to create their perfect waterside retreat in one of the most picturesque spots on the island. Cooper Brouard (01481 236039)

St Pierre Du Bois, £2.395 million Willow Hey is a modern family house set in a private, sought-after rural location. The owners have recently upgraded the accommodation, which includes a sitting room, family room, study, a spacious bedroom downstairs and three further bedroom suites on the first floor. Outside, the lawned gardens and grounds extend to nearly 1½ acres and are ideal for entertaining, with far-reaching views down into the valley. Living Room (01481 715555); Swoffers (01481 711766)

St Andrew, £2.4 million Located in the parish of St Andrew, Le Foulon House is a traditional family property that has been skilfully updated. With four large bedrooms and five spacious reception rooms, including a pretty conservatory, the house is ideal for entertaining both inside and out; the gardens feature an idyllic paved courtyard, a swimming pool and a granite pagoda. Savills (01481 713463); Swoffers (01481 711766); Living Room (01481 715555); Cooper Brouard (01481 236039)

St Pierre Du Bois, £3.45 million This historic Guernsey farmhouse lies at the end of a pretty tree-lined drive in the rural parish of St Peter’s. The original stone buildings have been carefully preserved and offer flexible accommodation encompassing seven bedrooms, seven reception rooms and four bathrooms, with the outbuildings providing potential for further expansion. Six acres of wonderful gardens and grounds include a substantial barn with an original cider press, stables and pigsties, a traditional vine house, a walled garden and a vegetable patch. Savills (01481 713463); Swoffers (01481 711766) Vale, £2.25 million La Haute Banque is a period property located in a tranquil lane close to Beaucette Marina, in the north of the island. With a kitchen/breakfast room, four bedrooms, three bathrooms and four reception rooms, the house provides flexible accommodation. Outside, the garden is mainly laid to lawn and features a collection of mature trees. Swoffers (01481 711766) 51

CLI318.guernsey_property.indd 51

12/08/2021 14:22


Interview

All in hand Julia Hands, the founder and chairman of Hand Picked Hotels, moved to Guernsey in 2018. She talks to Arabella Youens about her life on the island

I

T was an unusual tradition that first brought Julia Hands to Guernsey. ‘My husband and I had a habit of celebrating our wedding anniversaries each year by visiting a capital city or an island in alphabetical order,’ she explains. ‘We started with Amsterdam, then Budapest and Copenhagen. When it came to celebrating our seventh anniversary, in 1991, we went to Guernsey.’

With a choice that was to prove serendipitous, the couple stayed at St Pierre Park, in St Peter Port. The hotel had opened in 1983 on the site of a 19th-century building that had belonged to a monastic order and was used as a convalescent home for German soldiers during the Second World War. ‘We had a lovely and memorable time: St Peter Port is a charming town with a busy harbour. But what struck me as the island’s greatest asset was the coastline, the cliffs, beaches and wonderful views.’ St Pierre Park is now part of Mrs Hands’ Hand Picked Hotels collection. These award-winning countryhouse and spa hotels are located throughout the UK and in the Channel Islands. Originally part of the Virgin group owned by Sir Richard Branson, the portfolio was acquired by Mrs Hands 10 years after their weddinganniversary trip. Although her husband moved to Guernsey full time

When she first visited, Julia Hands was captivated by the beauty of the Guernsey coast

in 2009, Mrs Hands, a former lawyer, continued to live in the UK and travel back and forth for weekends—catching flights from Gatwick from her house in Kent. For the past three years, the island has been her home, too. She runs Hand Picked Hotels from either an office at home or another in St Peter Port—the island has excellent broadband throughout. ‘Up until Covid, it was so easy to travel to and from the UK,’ says Mrs Hands. ‘Now, of course, with the advent of Zoom, it’s not necessary to jump on a plane for a meeting. Zoom has dissolved the boundaries between Guernsey and the UK even further.’ When not at her desk, she enjoys hiking and walking: the walk from St Martin’s through Fermain Valley to a little cove where there the beach cafe is a particular favourite. ‘I’ll go with a friend and have a coffee. There’s a huge variety of restaurants to choose from [on the island] and what’s wonderful is that they are independently owned. The service is charming and personal.’ She mentions Le Petit Bistro and Le Nautique, both in St Peter Port, and La Reunion on Cobo Coast Road. ‘But there are so many, it’s hard to choose.’

She also enjoys playing golf on one of Guernsey’s three courses—when time allows—but confesses she’s more of a fair-weather swimmer. ‘I have friends who swim in the sea every day of the year and speak about how lifeaffirming the experience is and how you don’t notice the cold after a while. But I have to admit, I haven’t managed to join them very often.’ When it comes to a local culture fix, Mrs Hands recommends the Princess Royal Centre for Performing Arts, which hosts concerts with local musicians, as well as live streaming ballet and opera from the Royal Opera House in London. Another joy of living in Guernsey is being able to go island-hopping. Hand Picked currently has two hotels in Jersey—L’Horizon Beach Hotel & Spa in St Brelade’s Bay and Grand Jersey Hotel & Spa in St Helier—so she’s a frequent visitor. ‘But if we want to escape a bit, we love visiting the smaller islands such as Alderney, Sark and Herm—it feels like a mini holiday. They each have unique identities, good restaurants and lovely coastal walks.’ Three years into life in Guernsey, and there’s no looking back for Mrs Hands. ‘There’s no need—it’s an incredibly friendly place to live and work. In normal times, travelling back to the UK is a breeze and I love the outdoorsy lifestyle.’

Getty

What struck me as the island’s greatest asset was the coastline, the cliffs and beaches

52

CLI318.guernsey_interview.indd 52

11/08/2021 10:59


Expert guidance, precisely tailored. Finding the right home has to work for your family, your lifestyle and your future.

Our wider services include: Advising on relocations and high value residency applications in conjunction with trusted tax advisers. Co-ordinating surveyors, architects, site and property finding professionals, as well as private banks, to provide a seamless and personal service.

Whether you’re buying, selling or investing in property in the Channel Islands, our experienced property team will ensure you avoid any pitfalls. We provide a personal and unique service to all our private clients.

Responsive and commercially aware planning and construction law advice.

Property Law 44 Esplanade, St Helier, Jersey JE4 9WG. Telephone: +44 1534 514056

Redwood House, St Julian’s Avenue, St Peter Port, Guernsey GY1 1WA. Telephone: +44 1481 721672

9000

See ogier.com for more information about Ogier’s legal services.

ogierproperty.com


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.