London Runway Issue 35

INTERVIEWS WITH CHANEL JOAN ELKAYAM + CAREAUX . HISTORY OF FASHION . FESTIVAL CHOICES

ASAI . DB BERDAN . COTTWEILER . ASTRID ANDERSON . JORDAN LUCA . LUIS BONFIGLIO . HOUSE OF IKONS

ISSUE 35 16TH MARCH 2019

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino - shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Features Editor: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk News Editor: Madeleine Coffey - news@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Neil Dowd - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Writer - Joanna Cunningham Graphic Design: Alex Panek, Melina Hadjiargyrou - design@londonrunway.co.uk Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Judith Willis, Kirsty Jackson, Molly Dalton, Claire Tagg, Zoe Reid, Jovian Wan, Tim Van der Most, Wout Phillipo, Luis Bonfiglio, Mendee Medsaikhan and Debbie Koije, Jack Riddle Special thanks to Melissa Lamb, Lilya Ward, Tom Dayton, Shiho Takekoshi, Chanel Joan Elkayam, Rachel Beattie and Laura Beattie

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Junior Graphic Designer Arts Editor Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk or apply via FashionJobs.com

Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Pixart Printing and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

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EDITOR'S LETTER This month, we’ve been thinking about plans.

Plans have been heavy on my mind lately, as I begin preparations for my wedding day in 2020. There are so many decisions to be made, schedules to be fixed, vendors to be organised. Perhaps that’s why I’ve become more attuned to the way that others are creating strategies for the future, and the sense of restlessness that hangs in the air with our changeable weather.

We ourselves have some very exciting plans coming up over the next while, including a model competition to find an exciting new cover star (more on that next issue).

This is something we’ve been working on for a while, and it’s going to be extremely satisfying to see it come to fruition.

We also spoke to two incredibly resourceful and determined ladies – Rachel and Laura Beattie of Careaux, who spent the best part of two years

looking for suppliers that would meet their standards for ethics and sustainability. Rather than rushing ahead to start their brand without the right components in place, and planning to tackle them later, they chose to put their standards first.

The industry would be in far fairer shape if other brands took this approach.

London Runway, then, is to move forward. Make plans, of course, but follow them. Lay out a roadmap towards your dreams and then take the first step. If you never have the courage – or the conviction – to set a date and work towards it, you will never be able to see the results.

Enjoy -

Then there are the plans which continue to unfold in the industry around us. We’re seeing more brands standing up for diversity and equality, putting women first, and talking about how they can create a more sustainable future.

The thing about plans is that they are only worthwhile if they are followed through. While there is usually some need for wiggle room along the way, adapting to whatever challenges may arise, nothing will ever come to fruition if no action is taken.

Our theme for this 35th issue of

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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CONTENTS

LONDON RUNWAY

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65

VISUALS

WORDS

Asai

7

Fashion News

4

DB Berdan

12

LFW Trend Summary

17

Claire Tagg (Editorial)

19

Long Live Karl Lagerfeld: The King Of Fashion

26

New Faces

29 Interview: Chanel Joan Elkayam

37

Chanel Joan Elkayam

39 Miss Transbeauty Pageant 2019

55

Cottweiler

44 49

London Runway's 2019 Festival Choices

63

Astrid Anderson Style (Conscious) Guide: Spring Blooms

56

Neighbourhood Voices: Whitecross Street Market

73

Christopher Raeburn

57

Interview: Careaux

77

Jordan Luca

61

Your Style Horoscope

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The Life Of A Collection: Luis Bonfiglio (Editorial)

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Casting Report: Ibiza Fashion Festival

120

House Of Ikons Show 1

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Fashion, Fearlessness and Feminism - A Century of Women Fighting For Equality

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The Big Question

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“If we show emotion, we’re called dramatic,” Williams narrates. “If we want to play against men, we’re nuts. And if we dream of equal opportunity, we’re delusional. When we stand for something, we’re

unhinged. When we’re too good, there’s something wrong with us.

And if we get angry, we’re hysterical, irrational, or just being crazy… So if they want to call you crazy, fine,” she concludes. “Show them what crazy can do.”

The campaign is part of "a yearlong journey [for Nike] to inspire the next generation of athletes."

As its first advert featuring a compilation of only female athletes, Nike certainly takes a step in the right direction and exhibits a welcome use of its status to raise awareness and empower women in an extremely male-dominated industry.

While some brands show progress, disappointing stories elsewhere arise. It was recently revealed that a range of charity "Girl Power" T-shirts, worn by celebrities including spice Girl Emma Bunton and Holly Willoughby, were manufactured in a factory that stands accused of exploiting its workers. The £28 tees sold online by F=, a fashion brand that aims to promote female empowerment, serve as a stark reminder that, despite improvements, the industry still has a long way to go.

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NEWS

BY MADELEINE COFFEY

In a follow-up to Nike's controversial "Dream Crazy" campaign last year that starred American activist and ex-American football player Collin Kaepernick, the brand has released a "Dream Crazier" campaign, tailored towards empowering sportswomen and narrated by one of the greatest athletes of all time, Serena Williams.

In the wake of International Women's Day, this ad is a perfect example of how leading brands can really hit the mark when it comes to social awareness and responsibility in the commercial sphere.

The 90-second ad showcases iconic sportswomen in their element, with clips ranging from Simone Biles' gymnastic prowess to Ibtihaj Muhammad's fencing expertise. The advert's illustration of such incredible and varied skill of numerous, worldwide sportswomen is underpinned by Serena William's narration, which highlights the additional societal difficulties that female athletes in particular face and overcome.

FASHION

NIKE CELEBRATES FEMALE ATHLETES IN POWERFUL NEW CAMPAIGN

Via Wikimedia Commons

FASHION

LONDON RUNWAY

BY MADELEINE COFFEY

NEWS

BURBERRY ANNOUNCES NEW DIVERSITY INITIATIVE FOLLOWING ‘NOOSE HOODIE’ INCIDENT Following significant backlash against its ‘noose hoodie’ design presented on the runway at LFW earlier this month, Burberry has announced a range of new diversity initiatives to both educate and diversify its company and brand.

The controversial hoodie from Burberry's Fall 2019 collection had draw-strings tied in the form of a noose and caused major backlash following its runway performance.

Model Liz Kennedy was first to speak out about the problematic sweatshirt.

"How could anyone overlook this and think it would be okay to do this especially in a line dedicated to young girls and youth... Let’s not forget about the horrifying history of lynching either. There are hundreds of ways to tie a rope and they chose to tie it like a noose completely ignoring the fact that it was hanging around a neck."

After issuing a formal apology and quickly removing the offensive designs from its Fall 2019 collection, 'the luxury fashion house released a

statement on Instagram, sharing its new programs to prevent similar issues in the future.

"At Burberry, we have always sought to build a culture that is diverse, open and inclusive and one where all perspectives are valued,” the CEO of Burberry Group, Marco Gobbetti, wrote. “The distress we caused with one of our products last week has shown us that we are not where we need or want to be."

As part of its new scheme, Burberry has launched a three-stage initiative "to increase consciousness and understanding of social issues and fully embrace diversity and inclusion: increasing understanding, diversifying the pipeline of talent, and championing those who help others.

While such initiatives are of course positive and very much welcomed, it is disappointing that yet another luxury fashion house is finding itself back-tracking from a seeminglyignorant design choice.

Via Instagram @liz.kennedy

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LONDON RUNWAY

SELFRIDGES TO BAN ALL EXOTIC SKINS BY 2020

Via Pixabay

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NEWS

BY MADELEINE COFFEY

Having been fur-free since 2005, Selfridges said banning exotic skins was part of a "long-standing commitment to place ethics and sustainability at the heart of commercial decisions". The ban is part of a broader strategy "to use its influence to encourage partners and people to buy responsibly, respect the planet and protect our future,” explains sustainability director Daniella Vega.

Selfridges introduced 'The Buying Better, Inspiring Change' initiative in 2016, which saw Selfridges make a commitment to ensure that 50 percent of all products are better for people and the planet by 2022. Changes already made include the brand's signature yellow bags being made from recycled coffee cups, the removal of single-use plastic bottles in store, and since 2019, all clothes bags are now made with used plastic bottles.

“Buying Better Inspiring Change underpins our business and our culture," explains Manes, who added that Selfridges is fixed on being at "the very forefront of future thinking retail… For us, that's a future where luxury is defined by craftsmanship and material innovation."

Selfridges' work towards a leading exemplar of eco-luxury has been welcomed globally. "Hats off to Selfridges - which had already banned fur, angora, and foie gras after persuasive talks with Peta - for now ending the sale of wild animals' 'exotic' skins,” commented Yvonne Taylor, director of corporate projects at Peta.

FASHION

Amidst a growing trend toward sustainable luxury fashion, London's most renowned luxury department store has followed suit and pledged to ban all sales of exotic skins by 2020. “I am proud to confirm that exotic skins will no longer be available to purchase at Selfridges as of February 2020,” announced buying director Sebastian Manes.

The move follows in the footsteps of Chanel, who became the first luxury fashion house in the world to stop using exotic animal skins. Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Westwood, and Diane von Furstenberg, alongside high street brands such as Topshop, H&M and Adidas, have also united in the ban.

AS AI LONDON RUNWAY

Autumnal earthy tones and colours, such as browns, whites, and oranges graced the runway of Asai’s A/W19 collection at LFW. Padded and button-up coats with striped detailing and heritage fabrics were seen throughout the pieces paying homage to A Sai Ta’s British influences and foreign background.

He said, “I wanted to look at what it means to be British from an outsider perspective.” He definitely achieved this with his signature layering style and Asian incorporations in his garments.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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DB BERDAN Loud colours and patterns screamed out at us as we took in all of DB Berdan’s A/W19 collection at LFW, and it was exhilarating! Denim on denim, oversized jackets, funky hair and makeup, what’s not to love?

This collection emphasised unisex silhouettes and the rejection of human categorisation, such as gender, race, and sex. Patchwork designs and ironic prints and slogans reinforce the brand’s unconventional hyper streetwear aesthetic.

Photography by Ian Clark

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LONDON FASHION WEEK TRENDS SUMMARY Joanna Cunningham explores how catwalk looks from the most recent London Fashion Week can provide for inspiration in our own wardrobes.

London Fashion Week has come and gone yet again, leaving some fabulous inspiration to fuel us fashion-mad individuals with new outfit ideas. Of course, the catwalk is definitely not high-street style, and it’s probably not something you would copy completely on a day-today basis. That said, it’s always possible to take inspiration from what you see, so you can mix up materials, colours, and styles for some fresh new looks.

Luckily, although there were certainly some rather garish looks from our fantastic LFW designers, there were also some much more pared-down shows which you could certainly recreate at home. Let’s take a look at a few of these to see how we could take inspo from the catwalk...

Mimpikita (1) In recent months, this has become such a classic look— layering a turtleneck top with a strappy dress. You could so easily recreate this look at home, especially in the colder months when you’re feeling the feminine vibes, but don’t want to wear a summer dress in the cool weather.

This is the perfect in-between moment—both feminine and practical.

(2) Our next look is a more girly take on the classic girl boss pant suit.

Instead of the sharp lines you would normally expect from a pantsuit look, we have a loose, large blazer paired with flowing flared culottes.

I’m all about the culottes, and this looks like such a breezy outfit for stepping out in the spring, to the

office, or a business meeting. It’s comfortable, quirky, and smart, and definitely replicable at home.

(3) Our last fashion inspiration from Mimpikita’s line is this layered ensemble, which takes the classic 50s bomber jacket to new heights.

This cropped bomber, keeping in theme with the spring colours, has been coupled with a floral-patterned skirt and sandals, which makes for a super summery outfit, perhaps for a day out at the shops. Not only does it look really comfortable, it also looks super feminine, as well as cool for any of those hotter days.

Mary Katrantzou (4) I love this slightly vampy, gothic look from the Mary Katrantzou show. Not only is it really quirky and fashion-forward, but it’s also a very wearable outfit for anyone who likes animal prints. You could pair a coat and boots like these with a plain office dress, perhaps, as the coat is such a statement piece it needs to stand on its own, without distraction.

The cinched-in waist is what makes this item really stand out, as it’s super womanly and classy, but the outfit is still really interesting and unique at the same time. The boots also add that touch of sass—I know I would feel like a 10/10 wearing this outfit walking the streets of London.

Just add a plain, small, black handbag, and you’re good to go!

Slovak Fashion Council (5) This outfit is definitely one of the slouchier looks, but it could easily work as night-out wear, especially when we consider the stiletto heels which finish it off.

Matching colours are always a great

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way to look really put together, even if you’re not feeling your best. By pairing this slouchy jumper with matching socks, it’s so easy to make an otherwise dreary outfit come to life. With the addition of heels on top of the socks, this becomes a real school-girl look that’s cutesy yet wearable at the same time.

(6) Another look from the same line is this grungy punk dress, which turns an otherwise normal outfit into something much more interesting. This is definitely one of the more wearable looks and could probably be pared-down a little more by removing all of the tie accessories.

I’m all about the white boots—I think they’re a staple in anyone’s wardrobe as they stand out and pull together the white colours in any ensemble. This could become a really gorgeous spring or summer dress and, coupled with a black leather jacket, you can’t really go wrong!

Mark Fast (7 & 8) Mark Fast’s collection was all about the really womanly vibes, and I think this is shown best in the figure-hugging dresses. These very much remind me of the Hollywood film days of old, when movie stars dressed to the nines. I think it’s the feathered accessories that really add to these vibes, and I adore the way these otherwise simple dresses have been transformed to make them look outrageously glamorous.

A plain, ribbed or ruched bodycon dress is all you’d need to pull these looks off, alongside a matching pair of coloured heels to really bring it all together. Then, a shawl would do the trick to replicate the feathered accessories, forming a classy, beautiful look for a ball or work-do.

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Pam Hogg (9) Pam Hogg created some extremely wearable garments, alongside some much more outthere looks which certainly could not be worn out and about. That said, this is one of the more conservative looks, which really puts those military vibes from the early 2000s back in their stride.

Think Cheryl Cole in Fight For This Love, and you’ve got it!

The addition to this simple dress of an obstructive belt around the arms is a little strange, and is obviously one of those items which reads very well on the catwalk, but not so much in real life. That said, take this away and you’ve got a great winter dress, with some killer boots to set it off.

Jaspar Conran (10) We all love a classic, long, flowing summer dress. This isn’t even the sort of outfit you would necessarily just take inspiration from. Instead, I would say this is a very wearable look, which could be replicated entirely. I particularly love the inward neckline, which looks so elegant and classy.

As it’s super floaty, this would make it extremely airy and cool. So, with a natural makeup look, and a low bun, a long summers dress like this would be ideal for a hot holiday away.

So, those are my favourite ten looks from LFW February 2019, which really stood out to me as being extremely wearable. That said, even with the less wearable looks, it’s always possible to take elements of certain outfits as inspiration to mix up your everyday wardrobe. Don’t be afraid—fashion is all about experimenting, and the catwalk certainly takes this to a whole new level.

You can keep up to date with Joanna’s work on her blog, itstartedwithrebecca.wordpress.com, or follow @itstartedwithrebecca on Instagram, and @iswrebecca on Twitter.

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CLAIRE TAGG Photography - Molly Dalton Wardrobe: Claire Tagg Makeup: Jack Riddle Models: Zoe Reid and Jovian Wan

Zoe wears: Navy snakeskin printed ballgown - £395, Claire Tagg

Zoe wears: Navy snakeskin printed mini dress - ÂŁ120, Claire Tagg

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Above: Zoe wears: Black printed chandelier mini dressÂŁ89, Claire Tagg

Right: Jovian wears: white printed mini dress - ÂŁ120, Claire Tagg

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Zoe wears: Black printed leotard - £120, Claire Tagg

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Jovian wears: Polka dot printed mini dress - £ 120, Claire Tagg

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Zoe wears: Navy snakeskin printed mini dress - £120, Claire Tagg

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Above: Zoe wears: Gold embellished mini dress - £295, Claire Tagg

Right: Zoe wears: Dragon embellished mini dress £395, Claire Tagg

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LONDON RUNWAY

LONG LIVE KARL LAGERFELD: THE KING OF FASHION In the shadow of his death, Judith Willis looks back at the career of the irreplaceable Karl Lagerfeld; creative director, designer, photographer, and pure genius.

Tuesday 19th February was like any other day in the office, except just after noon an email popped into my inbox with the subject: 'Karl Lagerfeld reported dead'. My mouth went letterbox shaped. I turned to my colleagues and whimpered “Karl Lagerfeld has died”. They looked at me and in unison replied nonchalantly, “Yeah, we know.” I couldn’t understand their casual manner – Lagerfeld is one of the most prolific and celebrated figures in fashion who worked for Chanel

and Fendi right up until his death aged eighty-five. There had been whispers that his health was ailing after not coming out as usual to take a bow after the Chanel couture collection shows back in January. In the end, he passed away from complications with pancreatic cancer on Monday February 18th at the American Hospital of Paris. Even a genius is a mortal.

Lagerfeld’s career in fashion began aged seventeen when his sketch of a coat won a contest held by the International Wool Association and was subsequently produced by Pierre Balmain, who was so impressed by Lagerfeld’s talent that he offered Karl a job as his assistant.

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Three years later, Karl was appointed as the art director for designer Jean Patou, and by the early 1960s he was the first freelancer to work between France, England, Germany and Italy.

In 1985, Lagerfeld became the art director for Chanel – the fashion house he is perhaps most associated with. At the time Karl joined, it was considered a "near-dead brand” since the death of designer Coco a decade prior. Karl went by the mentality “my life and my job is to forget myself”, describing himself as “a computer plugged into the Chanel mode.” He breathed new life into the house of Chanel, revamping its ready-to-wear fashion line and

LONDON RUNWAY famously integrating the interlocking CC logo into a style pattern for the fashion house.

Lagerfeld stated, “We had to pull out all the stops because otherwise it would just have been a posh unassuming tweed suit with a little bow.” The label that had dwindled down to only being worn by middle aged doctors’ wives became the biggest design house of all time.

In 2012, the Little Black Jacket exhibition opened in London, showing over one hundred black and white photographs – shot by Lagerfeld himself – of the designer’s favourite muses wearing Chanel’s iconic tweed jacket. Other photography ventures of Karl’s included the 2011 Pirelli calendar and editorials for Harper’s Bazaar.

Although it was not his best-known

occupation, Karl was an incredibly skilled and talented photographer, effortlessly capturing each individual’s personality – a testament to the close relationships he had with some of the world’s biggest names.

Lagerfeld was easily recognisable by his signature style - dark suits, white pony-tail, and tinted sunglasses. He was also known for his tendency towards controversy, from stating that if it were legal, he would marry his cat, to employing strippers and an adult-film star to model his black-and-white collection for Fendi – a decision that caused Anna Wintour to walk out of the runway show at Milan Fashion Week in 1993. But the beauty of Karl’s shows was that there was always a kind of humour and

playfulness behind each one.

Remember the Chanel AW14 runway show when the Grand Palais was transformed into the Chanel Shopping Centre, where models browsed aisles filled with Chanelbranded goods? Or the SS16 show that saw the Grand Palais turned into an airport terminal, with check-in kiosks, branded luggage and ticket officers? Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Fashion at Chanel, said of the late creative director: "Fashion show after fashion show, collection after collection, Karl Lagerfeld left his mark on the legend of Gabrielle Chanel and the history of the House of Chanel.”

The biggest question now is what does the future hold for Chanel and Fendi without their influential creative director? Doubtless there will be many accomplished figures lined up to succeed the King of Fashion’s throne, but just who it will be remains a mystery for now. One thing is certain, however: they have some very large Chanel boots to fill.

Follow Judith on Instagram @_misswillis_ Previous page: Image via Instagram/Chanel This page: images via Wikimedia Commons

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#LONDONRUNWAYSTYLE Our eyes on your socials

Our friends at LFW!

Gorgeous bride and model, inspiring person!

One of our beautiful readers!

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE Name: Melissa Lamb Age: 24 Location: Hemel Hempstead in Hertfordshire Agency: Eden Model Management How long have you been modelling for?

I did it when I was a kid, then I went to uni and had quite a bit of time off. I got back into it six months ago.

Where are you from originally?

North London.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can sing.

What would surprise people to know about you?

That I can do some circus acts that I learned at uni. I can walk a tightrope – well, I could at one point. I studied musical theatre, by the way!

What are your modelling ambitions?

To become more confident and try to get signed with a bigger agency in modelling and acting.

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NEW FACE Name: Lilya Ward Age: That’s a secret. It’s my birthday today but I don’t want to tell you!

Location: Bounds Green Agency: An acting agency.

How long have you been modelling for?

Not very long, I’m just a beginner.

Where are you from originally?

Russia.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can sing, I write poetry, I write scripts and plays, I paint… but maybe they are usual talents!

What would surprise people to know about you?

That I’m a witch.

What are your modelling ambitions?

To appear on a cover of a magazine.

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NEW FACE Name: Tom Dayton Age: 27 Location: I’m currently based in London.

Agency: So I’m currently represented by Eden Model Management. I do a bit of acting, but I’m trying to get my own stuff.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can walk on my hands.

How long have you been modelling for?

Just started this year.

What are your modelling ambitions?

Just here and there. A present and active role model for what a healthy person should look like.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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What would surprise people to know about you?

I have one blue eye and one green eye.

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE Name: Shiho Takekoshi Age: 23 Location: West London Agency: Ginger Snap, Fusion Management, TMA Management

What would surprise people to know about you?

I can perform Japanese Geisha dancing and can make up myself as a traditional geisha.

Where are you from originally?

Japan.

What are your modelling ambitions?

When I came to London, I realised there are so many different kinds of models and there are so many possibilities. I am fully Japanese and I want to use my face to become a model for make-up or fashion.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I dance and play some instruments.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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CHANEL JOAN ELKAYAM INTERVIEW We caught up with the designer right after her AW19 show – which was opened by transgender model Munroe Bergdorf and Kate Grant in spectacular fashion. Here are Chanel's thoughts…

What are the inspirations behind the new collection?

The vibe or inspiration for my AW19 collection was about an independent woman with a sovereign mind who believes in the empowerment of women. She is a feminine, seductive leader who is at the same time opulent and chic. She is fearless and unstoppable. She is also powerful and comfortable in her own body.

I implemented this message within the aesthetic of my designs and with the launch of my campaign “I DON’T FOLLOW I LEAD”. In that, everyone should lead their lives on their own terms unconstrained [by] others’ expectations.

Did you face any big challenges in putting the show together?

No! Everything ran so smoothly. I have such an amazing team who have worked with me for a few seasons now. Head of Backstage was Leighanne Mroczka, Head of Hair was Andrew Manion, Head of Makeup was Charlotte Marie Cardwell and Head of Nails was Sue Dray. The hair, makeup, nails and backstage team together were about 40 people in total who have already worked with me many times and are brilliant. They all work together so smoothly.

I DON’T FOLLOW I LEAD PAGE 37

You're the youngest designer ever to show at all the big four fashion weeks. How did you achieve such a remarkable feat?

After showcasing my first collection, I was invited to Paris Fashion Week to showcase the following collection. Then after Paris I was invited to showcase at New York Fashion Week.

In both Milan and London Fashion Weeks, I had my own independent, on-schedule designer show. This is how I completed the big four fashion weeks.

How would you describe your brand for someone unfamiliar with it?

My brand is luxury womenswear and accessories. The designs include expressive cuts with attention to details, and handmade embellishments. I make all the garments myself from start to finish including the handmade embellishments. The woman who wears Chanel Joan Elkayam is an independent woman who believes in the empowerment of women. She is a boss. Feminine, seductive and elegant. Fearless and unstoppable.

Powerful and comfortable in her own body.

What are your ambitions as a designer?

To continue to succeed in the fashion industry and make my mark in the world through my designs.

Follow Chanel and find her latest collection at chaneljoanelkayam.com Photography by Ian Clark

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COTTWEILER In collaboration with Reebok, the “sneafer” was presented at Cottweiler’s A/W19 collection at LFWM. Along with this sneaker and loafer hybrid, oversized and iridescent shirts with peekaboo zipper jackets exposing the models' nips combined sports and playful, sex appeal into one show.

In a car park with moss-covered urinals, the mood and theme of the show were felt upon entering.

Traditional sportswear manipulated and crafted in a subversive fashion with tones of blues and greens complimented the backdrop.

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ASTRID ANDERSON

With tracksuits, checkered heavy coats, and knitted, see-through trousers, classic menswear and Astrid Anderson’s quirky streetwear aesthetic combined to form her collection at LFWM19. Varying shades of blues, reds, browns, and black traveled down the stage as more and more eye-catching pieces appeared, such as the statement blue and grey fur outerwear pieces that flowed by.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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MISS TRANSBEAUTY PAGEANT 2019 The organisers of Miss TransBeauty share their outlook with us, and why they’re putting together a pageant specially for transgender entrants.

Within the fashion industry and in our day to day life, diversity is something to be celebrated and recognised as it represents expression, individuality, and variety. It can often be overlooked and in many ways be met with prejudice and scrutiny. With this in mind, London Organic Beauty along with Starvision Productions wants to provide an opportunity for fashion and beauty to meet those in the trans community. They are creating a beauty pageant which will allow candidates the means to articulate the challenges and stories they encounter while transforming from a man to trans women.

The aspect of giving a voice to candidates to share their personal experiences is what sets apart this event from others like it. The initial idea of the beauty pageant was conceptualized last year by Starvision Events, Ela Hidalgo (the Company Director, Founder and Event Organiser) and Randy Silverio (the Stage & Creative Director and Choreographer), and they have come together with London Organic Beauty. It is being held open for all trans women to compete in.

Miss TransBeauty will be hosted in stunning South Kensington and will happen in sunny July. It will be an event with the purpose of bringing together those in the trans community who are facing similar issues; it will bring awareness and better understanding of their lives

and the challenges a transgender person has to face. It will promote equality to trans people, recognising their value as a citizen within society. The event will also help support and promote Starvation Beneficiaries of the less fortunate children of Upper Pao Norte and Upper Abut, La Union, in the Philippines. This support will help to provide the children with their basic needs, school supplies and other equipment needed for their growth and development.

The event itself will see candidates compete in 6 categories: CULTURAL WEAR; SWIMWEAR; CASUAL; LONG GOWN; TALENT; and Q&A. Within the categories, contestants will be sponsored by designers who will provide fashion pieces and entire outfits for the individual categories.

There will be prizes for first place, second, and third place as well as complimentary gifts for runners up.

Guests will include bloggers and influencers, celebrities, singers, photographers, and other industry professionals to support this amazing event.

Looking to some of our wonderful contestants, they were asked why they are taking part and what they are looking forward to with this event. Their responses are as follows: “I joined this pageant to have a sense of achievement and fulfilment.

Likewise, the excitement I may experience and memories I make here is beyond measure in worth for widening my social horizon and understanding of people. My primary reason for joining this pageant is to develop and boost my self-esteem.

Likewise, it is a great privilege and honour to become one of the candidates of this pageant, since the

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organisation will be helping the charities and assisting us in promoting them through the organisation’s various programs and activities.”

– I. M.

“I simply want to join because I want to showcase my confidence and personality and hopefully, to inspire not only the younger transgender generations but everybody, for everybody to see that anyone can be who they want to be.” – A.O. “I'm taking part in this competition not to prove my ability to compete.

However, to share my life as a unique individual who is capable to live life normally as a person who is confident to face obstacles.” – M.A. London Organic Beauty and StarVision Production, like the contestants involved, are super excited for this event and what it means for the trans community and all those participating!

Watch this space for our coverage of Miss TransBeauty 2019.

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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rachel Parker

Lucy & Yak Dungarees £58

Boodi at Uhuru Earrings £195

Veja Vegan Trainers £69

H&M Conscious Top £8.99

SPRING BLOOMS PAGE 56

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CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN The A/W19 collection presented by Christopher Raeburn at LFWM further emulated the brand’s core values of sustainability with jackets crafted from air brake parachutes, organic cotton jersey tops, and patchwork dungarees. Odes to his former air cadet days were noticeable in the fabrics and silhouettes used (i.e cargo trousers and repurposed parachute garments). The colour palette ranged from muted olives and navy blues to bright scarlet reds.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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For the generation against conformity and cultural norms, Jordan Luca’s LFWM19 collection juxtaposed playwear and workwear into a menswear collection that merged two fashion cultures together, London and Italy. Their community, the UGLY/BOYS, left their marks with personal diary excerpts.

Photography by by Fil Mazzarino

JORDAN LUCA

LONDON RUNWAY

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LONDON RUNWAY’S 2019 FESTIVAL CHOICES The end of the winter season is rapidly approaching for us Brits and for music lovers, the blossoming of spring and summer can only mean one thing: the festival season is nearly upon us. With this in mind, Neil Dowd sinks his teeth into everything confirmed, hinted, rumoured or speculated to bring you his top picks for the most anticipated festivals of 2019.

1: Reading and Leeds Festival: 23rd - 25th August Reading and Leeds Festival has always been of sentimental value to me, being the first full weekend festival I ever attended in 2014.

The festival has been active since 1955 and as such is the world's oldest popular music festival.

What still draws many people to this iconic festival is its willingness to adapt and grow with the popular music trends of the times. It is widely thought that the main genres of the festival are rock, alternative, indie and metal.

However , it can be argued that particularly in more recent years, the festival has made many efforts to incorporate more and more pop, hip-hop and dance influenced bands and artists, providing a more diverse and eclectic range of music. The lineup for Reading and Leeds 2019 is no exception to this, with headliners ranging from British indie pop icons The 1975, the legendary rock gods Foo Fighters and genre melding duo Twenty One Pilots who are co-headlining alongside possibly the most surprising headliner of the weekend: Post Malone.

Additionally, artists such as

Anderson Paak, Lil Uzi Vert and Aj Tracey are few examples of acts that bring a more hip-hop and rap infused flare to the festival, supporting the 1Xtra and Dance tents in providing a choice for those who are not inclined towards the alternative genres.

Looking at this line-up there is one thing for certain: there is an act for everyone to enjoy.

2: Glastonbury Festival: 26th - 30th June Of course, we couldn’t possibly discuss British festivals without mentioning the largest greenfield festival in the world: Glastonbury.

With the festival’s attendance

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reaching a staggering 135,000 people in recent years, Glastonbury festival is regarded as a major event in British culture. Furthermore, the festival has hosted some of the biggest names in rock and pop music, with Radiohead, Foo Fighters and Ed Sheeran being the headliners for 2017. The majority of the line-up is currently still shrouded in mystery. However, many people are placing their bets on who they think the remaining acts and headliners will be.

Currently, there have been four acts confirmed for Glastonbury 2019: Kylie Minogue, Janelle Monae, Janet Jackson and the Friday night headliner Stormzy. Rumours that Stormzy would headline the Friday night began after Emily Eavis stated that “one of the most interesting acts in British music will headline”.

Since Stormzy has now been confirmed, many believe that either Childish Gambino or Liam Gallagher will also take a high slot on that evening. The Cure and The Killers are the bookies’ favourites to take the other two headlining slots.

However, enormous household names such as Kendrick Lamar, Madonna and even former Beatle Sir Paul McCartney have rumoured as possible additions to the line-up.

Speculation for who will fill those slots is underway, but it goes without saying that we can expect some big names will be used to fill the remaining slots - so good luck getting tickets in the April resales.

3: Wireless Festival: 5th - 7th July

For us Londoners, our next choice is one that is hosted right on our doorsteps. Wireless is a weekend

LONDON RUNWAY -long festival which is normally hosted in Finsbury Park.

Throughout the years, the festival has had a vast range of different sponsors and as such, has had an eclectic range of acts, branching from many different musical genres. Since 2015, the festival has been sponsored by New Look.

The festival was first founded in 2005 and through the earlier years since its inception hosted many renowned indie and rock bands such as Kasabian, The White Stripes and even The Who.

However, in more recent years the festival's line-up has opted towards pop, hip-hop and grime artists in response to these genres’ increasing popularity in the UK. The two headliners who have been announced so far are Cardi B and A$AP Rocky, whom will take to the main stage on the Friday and Sunday nights respectively. They will also be joined by a great number of other acts, both up and coming and well-established, such as Migos, Rae Sremmurd, Tyga and Travis Scott. With such an immense range of talented acts and the Saturday night headliner still waiting to be announced, this , this is a festival that any grime and hip-hop lover cannot miss.

4: Download Festival: 14th - 16th June Our next choice goes out to the rock and metalheads in our readership: Download Festival.

Download is a world-renowned British rock and heavy metal festival held annually at Donington Park in Leicestershire.

Whilst it is widely known as a British festival, many countries have begun to introduce their own versions of the festival, including France since 2016 and Australia since 2018. Since its inception in 2003, the festival has hosted the biggest names in the rock world such as AC/DC, Guns N’ Roses, Metallica, Judas Priest. In short, if you can think of a worldrenowned rock n roll act, they have more than likely played Download.

Looking at the acts announced for this year’s festival, it is clear that 2019 will be no exception. Taking the headlining slots this year are Tool, the legendary Def Leppard performing their classic Hysteria album in full and the return of the iconic, mask wearing nine-piece Slipknot.

If performances from Slash, Smashing Pumpkins, Skindred

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and Enter Shikari haven’t created enough anticipation regarding this event, it has also been rumoured that this Download appearance will be Slayer's last ever UK show. If this packed line-up doesn’t get you metalheads raring to go, I honestly don’t know what will.

LONDON RUNWAY

THE LIFE OF A COLLECTION: LUIS BONFIGLIO We have been following designer Luis Bonfiglio from the start of his latest collection, as he gathered his inspiration, designed the garments, and put them together. Here, we see the final product displayed in a stunning editorial.

This collection was inspired by one of the most beautiful cratures of the ocean. The Atlantic sea nettle.

The breathtaking sea creature moves in the water very elegantly, playfully and effortlessly. I have been especially inspired by their tassels. The charming and dancing movement of this animal motivated me to create a timeless, elegant, feminine, playful and effortless collection with a touch of romantic flair.

This collection shows a mix of body fitted dresses, playful volants positioned in eye catching areas, peek-a-boos, jackets, corsets and different lengths of skirts. You will also find beautiful back details on the dresses that will expose every woman's back in a charming and elegant way. Some of the skirts end at the knee and some of them will end on the floor.

The colours are solid, vibrant and powerful. Ultra-violet (the Pantone Colour of the Year 2019), blueberry blue, off-white, black, mustard and a touch of silver. The combination of the color palette is easy to mix and very timeless.

This collection shows a mix in materials, such as beautiful laces, high quality synthetics fabrics, soft tulle and silk.

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iglioFind Luis' collection and more at f n o is B lbonfigliocouture.wixsite.com/mysite - Lu Inspiration images via Luis Bonfiglio

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BELIEVE IN FAITH Photography - Tim van der Most Hair and Makeup: Â Wout Philippo Wardrobe: Luis Bonfiglio Model: Mendee Mendsaikhan Stylist Accessories: Debby Koije

All items: Price on request - Luis Bonfiglio

NEIGHBOURHOOD VOICES: WHITECROSS STREET MARKET With a rumbling belly and hungry eyes, Candice walks through Whitecross Street Market taking in the delicious smells of all the varying food stalls and scanning the diverse fashion styles.

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EMMA (LUXURY TRAVEL MARKETING, LONDON)

Do you come to Whitecross Street Market often?

I come maybe two or three times a week. I usually get a salad, but today is a treat day because it’s Friday.

Everyday is treat day! And, what are your fashion inspirations?

I follow a lot of people on Instagram, not particularly models, I would say, but just like bloggers that I have grown up with over the years and take inspiration from them as well as people that I see on the streets. I wish I had like a camera pretty much all the time so that I could snap it, but yeah, just everywhere around, like London.

Where are you from? Does it have an influence on how you dress?

I’m from Manchester, so no. I would say its like not that much difference from London.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

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NOH MIJI (INDUSTRIAL DESIGNER, SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA) What are your fashion inspirations?

I like Antwerp Six, Margiela and Dries Van Noten, and I like monotone colour palettes.

Does where you come from, South Korea, have any influence on how you dress here?

Mmm… I don’t think so. No. I make it on my own.

Do you come to Whitecross Street Market often?

I relocated from Switzerland four months ago, so this is actually my first time here.

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RACHEL (PSYCH THERAPIST, LONDON, DUBLIN) Do you come to Whitecross Street Market often?

This is actually my first time, but I work close by.

What are your fashion inspirations?

So, for me, it’s a lot about bright colours. Things that are inspired by nature, sort of organic-looking shapes, forms and fabrics, as well as architectural style stuff that remind me of the geometry of buildings and a mixture of things that seem very sort of structured but then have a very comforable kind of element reflects my personality.

Does where you’re from affect how you dress?

I don’t think so. Dublin’s quite cosmopolitan, but I won’t say it has a particular style. I’ve travelled to over 50 countries. I’ve spent a lot of time living around the world, so, you know, more than anything, the fabrics and colours of Mexico and mixing that with a little bit of Scandanavian style because I quite like the minimalism.

DAVID (THERAPIST, EAST LONDON, HUNGARY) What are your fashion inpirations?

Definitely 1970s; the sort of muted colours, like a young Mick Jagger sort of thing.

Does where you’re from, Hungary, have an influence on how you dress?

Hungary doesn’t anymore, but East London massively does, now.

Is this your first time at Whitecross Street Market, as well?

No, I’ve been here a few times, and I love it.

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CAREAUX INTERVIEW Rhiannon D’Averc sat down with sisters Rachel and Laura Beattie, the driving forces behind Careaux – a brand that gives women a more customised approach to dress sizing.

They talked about what inspired them to create a label with a difference, and what they aspire to change in the future.

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LONDON RUNWAY Tell us about the concept behind your brand.

Rachel: I had the idea when I was fourteen, so ten years ago this year.

My favourite subjects at school were art and maths, so for my art project, I decided to combine my love of fashion to make a dress for my art project. My Nana used to be a dressmaker so she could help me out with it. She spoke about how it was so important to get the quality and to tailor to each individual woman.

It kind of got me thinking about how we’ve lost that a bit. So, going on that background, I fell in love with the whole dress-making process from start to finish. Growing up, you used to love…

Laura: … Investment pieces.

Rachel: Laura’s seven years older, so I always used to steal her clothes. I used to try them on, and then because I’m a bit bigger on top it never used to fit me, and it kind of made me realise how we’re all different shapes and sizes. You know that feeling when you’re in the changing room and you’re like, “Oh, if I was just a bit bigger here or smaller here it would fit me”? I kind of wanted to get rid of that feeling, so the dress would fit for you. Then, one night, you know when you go to

sleep and your mind’s just thinking, I had the idea… They call it a lightbulb moment, don’t they? I told Laura, and from that moment we just wanted to do it. We didn’t know anybody that had ever run a business before, so it’s been a long process with a lot of learning along the way.

"I KIND OF WANTED TO GET RID OF THAT FEELING, SO THE DRESS WOULD FIT FOR YOU" The idea of the dress is that it’s got a zip around the waist, so you can separate it into a top and a skirt. You can mix and match the different styles and also have a different size top to bottom as well. [Rachel shows me her notebook with sketches of

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their dress styles] This is the one I did when I was like fourteen, it was the first one I drew. It had zips everywhere, but we wanted to start off just with the basic ones, with the zip around the waist. At the moment we’ve got a sleeved and a sleeveless, and then we’ve got a midi skirt and an A-line skirt. We’re doing a Kickstarter in March to launch the core collection as we work on bespoke at the moment. We’ll grow different styles, different colours, stuff like that. I’ve probably rambled on a bit…

The more you say, the better!

Rachel: Oh god, don’t tell me that, I’ll be here all week! [laughs] Family is obviously really important for you guys.

Rachel: Definitely, yeah – it’s all kind of stemmed from that, hasn’t it? From working with our Nana to now working together. We do bicker and that – we’re sisters – and we live together as well so it’s a bit allencompassing! But it’s really amazing to work with your sister as well.

And your concept really embraces the ‘every woman’ idea.

Rachel: Definitely so. It didn’t really make sense because when you’re a

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a teenager your body changes so much – my friends were changing and our styles were changing. The fashion industry’s kind of more embracing diversity – we have the plus size, petite, and tall, and stuff like that – but it didn’t really make sense how it was still separating people into plus size, petite, and I kind of wanted to make a dress that was just your size and your style. It’s not separating people, it’s just your dress. I do think it’s amazing how the fashion industry, with the models and everything like that, it’s a lot more diverse showing it. But I think the actual problem was with the clothes, like the clothing wasn’t fitting to people. I wanted to go back to the root of the problem and solve it with the clothes first, and then bring it from there really.

We’ve all had that moment in the changing room when ‘your size’ just doesn’t fit.

Rachel: When we did our research, it was something like over 90% of women are a different size top to bottom. It may only be a 10 and a 12, just slightly different, but it’s most women really. It was a contradiction in my head. We wanted to stay focused on it because it hadn’t been done before, so we wanted to focus on finding a solution that way because we knew it was what we wanted to do.

"I WANTED TO GO BACK TO THE ROOT OF THE PROBLEM AND SOLVE IT WITH THE CLOTHES FIRST" Sustainability and ethics are important to you as well.

Laura: It’s always been at the heart of what we wanted to do, and it took a long time to go and find fabric. We tested fabrics but they weren’t wearing well, they were pilling, and everything. But from the start we did want ethical and sustainable fabric, because it was just completely unfair. So we spent two or three years just on finding fabric.

Contacting places… some of the companies that we’d spoken to weren’t very happy about answering the questions. We asked about what

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laws and regulations they adhered to, do you know where the origin is, and they just were very shady about it.

Rachel: Not shady! I think when you’re a small company, to stick to your values you have to do that from the start, because I think when you’re asking these questions it can be quite difficult when nobody’s heard of who you are. When we came up with the idea, the words weren’t used as much, which is amazing that it’s being used a lot more now. But we didn’t really have a word for it, because we knew we really wanted to treat people more than fairly, pay people more than fairly, and we wanted everything we do to have a positive impact. Now we’ve found the words to match it.

But in terms of what we’re doing, we’re going to continue to grow and grow and grow. The fabric we use at the moment is from Portugal but they’re like a socially responsible and ethical company. It’s also using excess fabric from runs so it’s saving it from going to landfill, but it’s obviously really good quality with that ethical side. Also the concept in itself, it’s the number of tops times the number of skirts times the number of dresses, so that means you need less stuff in your wardrobe as you can make so many

LONDON RUNWAY different dress combinations. It’s made locally in Manchester which is something that we’re really passionate about, because it’s providing local employment. And then it’s low carbon emissions – we’re not shipping it all over.

With the packaging and everything like that, that’s all recyclable and made from recycled materials. I think we wanted to lay the foundations from the start, so it has taken a lot longer to do it that way.

But it means that hopefully, now that we’ve found it, we can grow with it really.

You seem really determined that you weren’t going to compromise – it had to be really good quality AND sustainable, and it had to work from the beginning.

Rachel: Yeah, definitely, and I think the more people – small companies and big companies – that ask the suppliers to do that, it’s going to make a bigger impact. We just kept that in mind, towards the bigger picture.

Laura: And we have met some really great companies.

Rachel: People have been really good.

And you also do charitable donations when people buy from you.

Rachel: So that’s something we wanted to do from the start as well.

With the bespoke ones, if they’ve got a charity close to heart we always donate a percentage. Also, with the Pankhurst Centre in Manchester, we’re really lucky because last year it was 100 years since women gained the right to vote. They put a flyer out for ambassadors for the exhibition, so I joined for that and was helping get the exhibition together. Then last minute, I was kind of like, why don’t I make a dress for it? I was so absorbed with the organising! We were really lucky to make two dresses for a royal investiture.

Simone Roche got an MBE, she’s amazing and does this initiative called Northern Power Women. She got it for services to gender equality, and then we also did one for Marnie Millard, who got an OBE. She runs Nichols, which runs Vimto. Two incredible women! What we did was we combined those two bespoke

pieces to create it, in the Vimto colours for Simone’s style dress. We did that for the Pankhurst Centre, and it’s also suffragette colours as well, so it was really amazing. I just though it was really nice to do that.

Laura: I have cystic fibrosis, and we saw the CF Trust was talking about recycling medicine boxes. We use so many, so we thought, why not make a dress? We did it out of recycled polyester made from plastic bottles, and then we made one from an ethical supplier. We also used sequins, so we had recycled plastic sequins, and we used my old medicine bottles to make sequins as well – we had them laser cut.

Rachel: It was from the Sustainable Sequin company, she’s called Rachel as well – she was so helpful! Just want to give her a shout out because she was so nice. We want to make sure that we are always creating dresses that are highlighting the amazing work that charities are doing. I actually did maths at uni, which people think is so far away from fashion but it’s actually using a lot of the same sort of skills. I’m really passionate about using the dresses to promote – I’m a STEM ambassador, so doing school workshops with the children and with adults as well to show how you can use maths in fashion. I think it’s really important that you don’t have to just be creative or just do maths – it’s actually got loads of real-life applications. The skills that you learn from maths are stuff like problem solving, resilience, and everything which is really important when running a business. That’s what I’m passionate about.

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"YOU DON’T HAVE TO JUST BE CREATIVE OR JUST DO MATHS" How do you have any spare time? [both laughing] Rachel: I think everyone’s like that! We just find the time, don’t we? But I think everyone’s just super busy, art is super busy.

So how does a client go about ordering a bespoke dress from you?

Laura: We meet with the client, talk about what they like and what fabrics they like, what colours they want, and then we get a good idea of what they would like. We mix in a bit of our ideas as well. Rachel does some sketches of different ideas and different designs.

Rachel: I always get a bit carried away – remember one time I brought about 30 sketches? I showed it to them and they were a bit overwhelmed!

Laura: So Rachel goes and does that, and then we show them to the client and ask, would you like to change anything, would you like to add anything? And then we go off that.

We do the measurements and bring our pattern cutter with us. We talk through the designs again. We make the pattern, do a mock-up, do the fitting. If they want anything

LONDON RUNWAY changing, like different fabric, then we can source that for them. Then it just takes a couple more fittings and then at the final fitting they’ve got the dress.

Rachel: Our pattern cutter and dressmaker have been doing it for like 30, 40 years, so they’ve got so much experience. It’s amazing because where we’ve been learning, they’ve come along with that expertise which is really valuable.

Laura: Barbara’s like our adopted Nana, isn’t she! I don’t want to offend her [both laugh]. But that’s been really lovely to work really closely with them.

Rachel: Hopefully we can expand that network. Manchester and Britain in general has an amazing history of innovation in textiles and manufacturing, so it’s really nice to bring that back and play our part in it. We didn’t really see much about manufacturing in Manchester – we’ve been to the Make it British fair in London and we were finding not many Manchester-based companies. London’s a lot bigger place, but Manchester is not as common, so hopefully we’re playing our little part in developing skills and employment that way.

Tell me about the Kickstarter you’re launching.

Rachel: Because the idea hadn’t been done before, for the last six months we’ve been working on bespoke. Testing the idea further, and it’s been really amazing to get the feedback from women on what they want. But we always wanted to do the online e-commerce side, create a core collection. So we’re launching that in March – we’ve got International Women’s Day, World Maths Day, it’s a really exciting time in March and April.

So, you can pre-order the dresses – the sleeve or the sleeveless roundneck style and then a midi skirt or an A-line skirt, in black, navy, or ivory.

We wanted to start off with the timeless, classic styles and then hopefully build from there. We’re also hoping to, over the course of the Kickstarter, do a series of interviews with women and men who have created change. We’re hoping to tie that in and also pull in some of the charity work as well.

We’ve got a lot to do before then!

What do you enjoy most about creating your line?

Rachel: When you work so hard, and put so much into it - Just to be able see it in real life and look at it, everything you’ve done to get there, you just can’t beat that feeling.

"EVERYTHING YOU'VE DONE TO GET THERE, YOU JUST CAN'T BEAT THAT FEELING" PAGE 82

Find Rachel and Laura online at careaux.com, and look out for their Kickstarter!

Images via Careaux. Ecommerce shots: Model: Latifah Stewart; Photographer: Narita Savoor; Stylist: Taheed Khan; Hair and Makeup: Andrew Suleman / Campaign Shot: David Easton and special thanks to the amazing media students at Burnley College / Portrait: Beth Owen

LONDON RUNWAY

YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE In this edition of Style Horoscope, Candice reviews Spotify’s cosmic playlists and sources headphones to match.

If you’ve been randomly scrolling through Spotify, you’ll have gleefully noticed the new Cosmic Playlists. Updated each month, the songs in the playlists reflect a phase or transition period of each of the signs; if one’s meant to be going through some positive changes or growth, you’ll find more upbeat or vitalizing tunes and vice versa.

Astrologer, Chani Nicholas, who’s in charge of curating the songs says, “Each moment has a specific astrological mark, or archetype associated with it, that defines it.

Spotify and I have come together to take the theme of the moment for each sign and curate a playlist that reflects that.” You can’t fully enjoy and vibe with these songs without the appropriate energy-reflecting headwear either, so here are some ecofriendly and sustainable headphone options to suit!

Aries March 21 - April 20 This month is all about self-love and reflection, so bring the attention to yourself and do what’s needed to bring yourself back into the right mindset.

Paired with these Sound Blaster JAM headphones, The Journey by Tom Misch or Searchin’ For My Soul by Amel Larrieux are two songs out of the 31 that you could vibe with from the Aries playlist.

Taurus April 21 - May 21 Stand your ground and don’t be pushed into a role or position that you’re uncomfortable with. Listen to Here by Alessia Cara from the Taurus playlist with these Marshall II headphones in classic black or white to block out the suppressors and agitators.

Gemini May 22- June 21 With this heavy duty Liberate XLBT over-ear headphones from House of Marley and Don’t Waste My Time by Sinead Harnett, it is the perfect combination for go-getter Gemini to focus and rework their professional aspirations.

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Cancer June 22- July 22

Be open to change! Let loose with Land of the Free by The Killers and Never Lost by Amtrac with these playful, yet still classic white wireless Beacon earbuds by LSTN are both stylish and versatile for any activity planned.

Leo July 23- August 21 Your energy and time are precious, so it might be time to distance yourself from things or people draining you negatively. Listening with these noise-canceling Grado professional series PS2000e headphones to Bury a Friend by Billie Eilish and Do Not Disturb by Mahalia will give you the confidence and introspection needed to reevaluate those around you.

Virgo August 22- September 23

Relationship scars and cracks might appear this month, but communication is key to resolving them. Say So by PJ Morton and Jojo and Are You In Love by James Blake are good tunes to check out. Paired with these wooden GH4 headphones

by Grado, you’ll be in the zone for contemplation.

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Libra September 24- October 23 You’re the fun-loving sign, so don’t be so tense this month, especially in regards to your profession. Relax and be more flexible with these chilled out tunes and Positive Vibrations 2 wireless headphones from House of Marley. Drift by Choker and Enjoy the Ride by Joe Beard, Isaac Waddington, and Mathilda Homer.

Scorpio October 24- November 22Social exchanges and interactions with those from the past and present are vital for you this month, so be openminded and treasure and take from them. Vibe with Dancing With a Stranger by Sam Smith and Normani with The Bolt black wireless earbuds from LSTN.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 As a traveler, you are quick to be friendly and open with others, but be cautious of who you choose to let into your inner circle. New House by Rex Orange County or Family is Family by Kacey Musgraves are good songs to listen to while donning The Troubadour wireless headphones from LSTN.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20

It is a month full of confusion and uncertainty for you, so be sure to have backup plans and more backup plans to rely on. Listening with these Woodbud earbuds, Peer Pressure by James Bay and Julia Michaels or Stray by Grace VanderWaal are nice songs to plan along to.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Financials should be prioritized this month, and your spending habits should be altered if your balances are starting to look low. Young Dumb & Broke by Khalid and If It’s Not Addin’ Up by Sly & The Family Stone are good reminder songs to keep your budget tight. Listen to them with these inexpensive, colourful Smile Jamaica earbuds from The House of Marley.

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Quality conversations and reflection on your communicative skills are needed this month to make sure you’re not unintentionally pushing anybody away. With Be Myself by India Shawn playing through these bamboo Konohazuk H3 headphones, the reflective song will get this sensitive sign more in tune with themselves.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

All images via respective retailers

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A plethora of designs by global designers made up the House of Ikons show. With dancers on stage, traditional culture wear, and sparkling unitards, there was something for everyone to be amazed at. This is just part one of our coverage, with more to come in future issues.

Designers: Mullika Nakara Jacinta Lion Nanalola Couture Hilltribe House Sofiya Mozley Dapper Homme A. Renee Fashion Nadia Azumi Clothing Milano *AU*

Photography by by Surjit Pardesi

HOUSE OF IKONS SHOW 1

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CASTING REPORT: IBIZA FASHION FESTIVAL Rhiannon D’Averc visited the home of The Model Workshops London to attend the final casting call for Ibiza Fashion Festival.

You will remember our coverage of the first round of casting for the Ibiza Fashion Festival, taking place this summer, in Issue 34. Since then, the last round of casting has taken place, with final selections being made – and the chosen models have signed their contracts and started getting to work.

The second round of the casting attracted a higher quality of model, though the panel were ruthless in their decisions to cut anyone who did not make the grade. Some models failed to prepare properly, not bringing along the correct information. Turning up without the right things is a big no-no for any casting call, so if you are planning to attend one in the future, make sure that you check, check, and check again all of the instructions.

Some models were their own worst enemies. Even if they may have followed the instructions to the letter, it was clear that they were not living their best model lives. With modelling comes a certain responsibility to look after the tools of your trade – in this case, your body. Those who did not take care of their skin, don’t eat properly, or fail to stay in shape through exercise were quickly removed from the running.

The Ibiza Fashion Festival package

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for the models includes an intense fitness and nutrition programme before the event, to ensure that everyone is in their best bikini shape before they strut their stuff. This is incredibly important for modelling – most designers will make garments to sample sizes only, and even in the plus size or petite worlds there are set standards. Models that don’t fit won’t make the grade.

Models who lie about their height, age, or weight on their application forms will also be seen through very quickly. Girls, take note! Honesty is the best policy.

Then there is the public side of things: what appears if someone searches your name. Some promising candidates had to be let go from the process because of their borderline pornographic Instagram profiles, which didn’t fit with what the brands wanted to promote.

Others were let down by their loud and lairy behaviour – while it may be expected from tourists in clubs, it has no place at a fashion show.

There is much more to being a model than just looking pretty – as a lot of hopefuls found out for themselves at the castings. Now that the decisions have been made, we look forward to updating you with more as the Ibiza Fashion Festival quickly approaches.

Find details of upcoming casting calls and workshops at instagram.com/themodelworkshops.

FASHION, FEARLESSNESS, FEMINISM – A CENTURY OF WOMEN FIGHTING FOR EQUALITY Kirsty Jackson looks at feminism, how far women have come and the clothes they wore along the way.

We live in a society where there are no limits to what women can wear.

It is a society most of us have grown up in and have become accustomed to. For many of us, it is hard to imagine being told what to wear by society, by men, and having to dress to please others and not ourselves.

It has been a long road to get where we are today, and it is important to think back and give thanks to those who helped pave the way for women, their rights, and their freedom. There are so many notable women to pay homage to, none less than Emily Davison. The first martyr of the suffrage movement, like hundreds of other women across Britain, fought for our equality and right to vote. They suffered through horrendous acts such as force feeding for the suffragettes who were arrested, the brutal beatings they took from the police and the exile they faced from the male-led society at the time. The purple, white and green of the Suffragette sashes have become synonymous with the fight for equality: symbolising loyalty and dignity, purity, and hope.

It is strange to think that just ten years and one World War later, the Roaring 20s were in full swing. For the first time, (most) women had the vote, and there was a new-found sense of freedom. Here entered the Flapper Girls – rebelling against what was then acceptable behaviour with their short skirts and fast dance moves. This was an era famous for its style and fashion, being completely opposite to any other era before. There was Chanel,

the visionary who designed clothes that were comfortable for woman, and relieved women from the restrictions of the corset. She designed the first ever Little Black Dress in 1926 – a colour that was previously only worn during mourning now becoming a fashionable shade for the new era of women.

For centuries, women were prohibited from wearing trousers.

These were thought of as too masculine and deemed inappropriate for woman. It wasn’t until World War II, when women had to take over the men’s jobs while they were away fighting, that women began to wear trousers to work. This then led onto women wearing trousers in public, socially and for fashion. Many icons such as Katherine Hepburn, who was dubbed the “first lady of menswear”, paved the way for women when it came to wearing slacks. These soon became a staple in many women’s wardrobes. World War II saw traditional gender barriers broken just a little. When the men came back from war, they saw that woman had been hard at work, doing what were traditionally seen as masculine jobs, and doing them just as well as the men. At this point in time, every woman over the age of 21 had the vote, and it was looking up for these women in society.

The 1950s were the golden age for movies and Hollywood, and the icons that ruled the big screen were becoming fashion icons, pushing boundaries and providing inspiration for women across the world. Women like Marilyn Monroe with her figure-hugging dresses and Audrey Hepburn with her Little Black Dress were champions for

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LONDON RUNWAY women wearing what they want, being sexy and showing skin. They didn’t follow any rules or care about how people saw them, they wore what they wanted, and they were known for it.

It was from the early 60s and throughout the following decades that the music you listened to determined what you wore. These different styles were also known as subcultures, and for the first-time people were able to show their identity through music and be a part of something big. This had a huge impact on what women wore. From ripped denim and fishnets to bomber jackets and Doc Martens, women were dressing more expressively and daringly. They had their style icons from the bands and singers they listened to, and likeminded people to take inspiration from. They didn’t have to wear what everyone else did, they could be individual and express themselves in new ways. The first generation of fashion influencers were the Power House women within the music industry, such as Madonna, whose career was built on “pushing the limits of woman and sexuality through her songs and videos”, as well as Stevie Nicks, Debbie Harry and Cyndi Lauper. These women acted as a gateway to freedom of fashion and expression for their generation, and indeed for generations to follow.

Right now, there are no limits to what is possible in women’s fashion: we have no restrictions or boundaries. You often see women sporting three-piece suits to formal events, tailored and fitted to perfection – supermodel Cara Delevingne wore a top hat and tails to the Royal Wedding in 2018.

Feminism hasn’t been just one movement, it has been a series of movements that have carried on for decades, from the “Second-wave feminism” of the 80s to the activism we see today. It is a fight we have to keep fighting for our daughters and granddaughters. Although we have come on leaps and bounds from the days of the suffragette movement, we still have many obstacles to overcome.

many obstacles to cross, and so many fearless women willing to risk everything to do so. Today we see fashion designers and celebrities using their platform to speak about feminism and the struggles we still face, from Dior’s “We Should All Be Feminists” to the #MeToo campaign, where we see celebrities walking the red carpet in black, standing together and supporting one and other. I feel it is as important as ever to be a feminist, especially in the world we live in today. If the past has taught us anything, it’s that strong powerful women can and will achieve great things. Fashion has seen a powerful change and impact on the world, all the while mirroring the evolution of women’s rights and growing freedoms.

Images via Wikimedia Commons

Women’s relationship with society and fashion has been a long and complicated one. There have been so

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Q A THE BIG QUESTION

We asked, you answered

IF YOU HAD TO BE STRANDED ON A DESERT ISLAND WITH JUST ONE BEAUTY PRODUCT, WHAT WOULD YOU CHOOSE?

&

“I’d probably go for crueltyfree blonde shampoo!”

-Rachel Beattie, Careaux

“EYELINER”

“I like perfume, but it would have to be a roll-on, wouldn’t it, because I’d have BO? It would have to be a really nice Lynx roll-on. That would smell nicely and you could kind of use it as a perfume” - Adam Frost, designer

“Lipstick… Wait. Maybe cream. Because I can use that as a lipstick also!”

– Olushola Christine Adeyanju, milliner

Ewa Medrzycka, Miss London City

“LIP BALM”

“I’d say Vaseline. You can do everything with Vaseline”

- Kay Jay, model

– Josephine Louison, model

“I think it would be deodorant, or maybe lipstick because I love lipstick… maybe lipstick! I’m not so into beauty products, but I love lipstick”

“Definitely a body lotion to use all over it” - Kasia Orzechowska, model

- Georgina Wynter, model

“Olay’s 7 in 1 antiwrinkle, don’t want to be getting crow’s feet” – Jacob Goldsmith, model

“FILORGIA OIL ABSOLUTE” – Claudia della Frattina, milliner

– Sarah Regensburger, designer

“EYEBROW PENCIL!” “SPF 30 moisturiser” - Mrs Gaskett, milliner

“Always mascara, can colour lips from fruit, & moisturise from avocados or aloe vera”

– Laura Beattie, Careaux

“I WOULD CHOOSE ROSE WATER FOR MY FACE BECAUSE IT’S REALLY REFRESHING” – Cleo Barkley, model

“It would have to be a hair product. I don’t care about my face as much as my hair”

“Dermalogica Sport Protection SPF 50 moisturiser” - Monica Feher, milliner

“My Magic Away, yes it’s called that, concealer – it’s brilliant” – Pauline Brown, model

“I don’t really wear makeup, but I’d choose highlighter” – Jas Louise Goodman, model

–DJ Sorcha

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LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk Front cover: Astrid Anderson at LFW by Fil Mazzarino Back cover: Luis Bonfilgio by Tim van der Most