SPRING STYLES . FACE OF LR 2022 . LOGO DESIGN. WEST COAST TRAVEL GUIDE . PATRICK DEMARCHELIER
AFRICA FASHION COLLECTIVE . LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION . HOUSE OF IKONS . GLITTERING FASHION
ISSUE 73 27TH APRIL 2022
THE DIAMOND ISSUE
RRP £12.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk
STAFF SPOTLIGHT
Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra
each issue, we let you meet one of our team members
Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley Staff Writers: Ruth Croft Advertising enquiries - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Tongxin Li (Diana), Lucy Brown, Hannah Whittaker, Marco Gafarelli, Rina Shed, Anna Dunaeva, Daria Pivnyak, Ekaterina Dmitrova, Mihaela Rogova, Julia Leshanich, Kim Paviano, George Styler, Jim Mullin, Madison Brooks, Omaema Chtiar, Mohammad Beheshti, Soheyla Beheshti, Nazanin Tabatabayi, Sepita, Bahar, Masoud Dayani, Latta Pathak, Attianaasma, Raveena Mehta, Dimple Amrin, Ciara ParkerNorthwest at ilikethewayshe, Alexander Belov Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Writers Graphic Designers Illustrators Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk, or search for our open positions on LinkedIn and FashionJobs.
© 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene
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My name is Mrityunjoy Mitra aka MJ, working as a professional portrait and fashion photographer for the past 10 years. The MJ Studio is my business identity. I am proud to be a part of London Runway since 2019. I have always had a curiosity and interest in photography since my graduation days and gradually it’s become a profession. I have been a house photographer and an editorial representative of LR for well known top fashion and beauty pageants within the UK and outside. Gratitude to my backend team (MUA, hair and models) to make me successful in editorial space.
CONTENTS
40 VISUALS
22 WORDS
London College of Fashion Part 1
6
Alessandro Enriquez at MFW
15
Beauty (Editorial)
20
New Faces
31
Portfolio Piece
37
Raveena (Cover Editorial)
40
Africa Fashion Collective
54
Style (Conscious) Guide: Diamonds are Forever
66
London College of Fashion Part 2
68
Bridal Fashion Week Part 1
80
Bridal Fashion Week Part 2
95
House of iKons Part 2
107
Face of London Runway 2022 Launch
4
The Life and Legacy of Patrick Demarchelier
16
5 Spring Styles We Love... And 5 We Never Want To See Again
29
Reader Survey
39
West Coast Wanderings
50
New Business: ilikethewayshe
67
Book Club: My Year of Rest and Relaxation by Ottessa Moshfegh
77
Interview: Alexander Belov
91
Your Style Horoscope
103
The Big Question
118
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Welcome to the latest issue of London Runway!
Fashion, and plenty more. We’ve even got a peek at a show from Milan Fashion Week just to liven things up!
In case you wondered whether your eyes were deceiving you, yes – we do have a new cover price. Like everyone else, we’ve been hit by a rise in the cost of doing business, and you might be surprised at just how many expenses go into producing even an indie mag like this one. We’ve scraped by for a few years now on the barest little profit from each issue, so with things getting steeper, it’s unfortunately past due time for us to make a change as well.
I’ve got a travel guide for you this month, based around a USA West Coast road trip I went on a few years back. We’re also weighing up spring styles and deciding which are the best of the best and which don’t have enough karats for our taste. We’ve got bridal looks, a book review, and an opportunity for you to tell us what you think about the magazine and how we can improve it for you, our readers.
But – what a great lot of content we have for you in exchange for this raised price! We’re kicking things off in this sparkling diamond issue with a beautiful cover editorial from our own in-house photographer. There are tons of looks from House of iKons, Africa Fashion Collective, London College of
My personal favourite this month, though, is something I look forward to every year: the launch of the new Face of London Runway contest! As always, we’re on the search for fresh faces who think they might have what it takes to be a model but have never tried – whether that’s due to a feeling that the
industry doesn’t accept their type, a lack of self-confidence, or whatever else may have held you back. Maybe you’ve even tried modelling before but got no work from it – or maybe you used to be a model until something intervened and now you’re looking to get back into the industry. Whoever you are and whatever your circumstances, we’d love to see YOU apply – the details are all shared over the next few pages. I’ll end with a reminder of our current policy for those who didn’t spot it in last month’s Editor’s Letter: we are not currently accepting new submissions from Russian contributors, though we have a few pieces that we had prior commitment to publish before the start of the war in Ukraine that we will honour our word on. We stand with peace and safety for all, and always will. Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2022 LAUNCH It’s incredible to think it’s already been a year – but here we go again! As we have every year since 2019, we’re looking for a menswear and womenswear Face of London Runway for the 12 months ahead. Our final selection of ten models will be invited to a public voting round, where their portraits taken by our photographers will be used for the final judging.
Just like last year, we’re putting out a virtual casting call for the first round. This means you can enter from anywhere around the UK – and even anywhere around the world, so long as you would be able to travel back to London for the in-person round and to claim your prize!
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The winners get to enjoy a photoshoot with their face on the cover of the magazine and help with their modelling careers both in catwalk and photoshoot routes. We also feature the runners-up in the pages of the magazine throughout the year and beyond!
When you enter, we’ll be asking you to submit the following:
A headshot and full-body shot. If you don’t have these, get someone to take them for you on their phone – or stand in front of a mirror and do a selfie. No makeup, plain hair, and wear simple, tight-fitting clothing (we will make an exception for those who wish to model modest fashion due to their religious beliefs) A short, landscape-oriented video in which you say the following: “Hi, London Runway. My name is ______ and I’m going to be the new Face of London Runway 2022!” (again, filming it on just a phone is fine!) A filled-out form listing your name, physical measurements, contact details, and other information that we’ll need in order to consider you We are throwing the doors wide open once again, so absolutely anyone can enter (so long as you are over 18)— height, weight, skin colour, religious background, nationality, disability, gender identity – you get the picture! In previous years, our finalists included people from various racial backgrounds, plus-sized, androgynous, over-50s, LGBTQ+, and petite models, so don’t hold yourself back.
We will have two categories open for entry: menswear and womenswear. You can enter whichever category feels right to you, or even enter both if you wish. The category is nothing to do with your position on the gender binary, and we’ll consider all entrants equally. It simply indicates what style of clothing you’d be most comfortable modelling! After our first round of selections and getting forms filled out, we invite lucky entrants to Zoom rounds, which are fastpaced, fun, and accessible from wherever you might be. We head into the semi-final with an in-person session to whittle it down to just ten of you for the finals. enildaeD
There will be no charge for entry at any stage of the casting process. Therefore, the only thing holding you back is yourself! Make sure to get your entries in before the closing date on the 27th May 2022.
Face of London Runway 2021 Menswear Winner - Robert Keene
The Process:
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AT A GLANCE Free to enter, and open to anyone over the age of 18 All sizes, genders, races, religions, disabilities, and backgrounds considered Two categories, menswear and womenswear – you choose what’s comfortable to you! Enter with two images, a short video, and your personal stats PRIZE: Winners will be our cover stars and featured in the magazine throughout 2022/23!
Head to LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/FACE22 to enter! Photographs from our 2021 semi-final by Ian Clark
LONDON RUNWAY
PART ONE
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
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LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION
ZHENWEI WANG
MIKEL LAZKANO
LONDON RUNWAY
LOKIKEY, QI LIU
HEYUN PAN
LONDON RUNWAY
LICONG GONG
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LONDON RUNWAY
JIARONG ZHAD
LONDON RUNWAY
SHYHANZHOU
MA ARTEFACT
ADELA BABINSKA
LONDON RUNWAY
RHEA SONAWANE
ELENE GONZALEZ
LONDON RUNWAY
CHAO SUN
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LONDON RUNWAY
ALESSANDRO ENRIQUEZ AT MFW Photography by Marco Gafarelli @Marco Gafarelli
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LONDON RUNWAY
THE LIFE AND LEGACY OF PATRICK DEMARCHELIER PAGE 16
LONDON RUNWAY On the 31st of March, coveted fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier passed away at the age of 78. Renowned for his photography featuring the likes of Princess Diana, RuPaul, and Kate Moss, Demarchelier could always be relied upon to produce an iconic magazine cover. Born near Paris in 1943, Demarchelier received an Eastman Kodak for his 17th birthday from his stepfather, kickstarting his interest in photography. He first learned how to develop film and retouch negatives and began photographing weddings and events soon after. When speaking about how he got into photography, Demarchelier said that he had no formal qualifications, just the “school of life”. “I learned most by just taking pictures, a lot of pictures. I made plenty of mistakes, but it’s often from your mistakes that you learn most. Being a photographer is like being an athlete. You must practise every day”, he said. At 20, Demarchelier made it to Paris, working as a printer of news pictures. He then became the house photographer for a Paris model agency and the assistant to Hans Feurer. It was this connection that gave Demarchelier the gateway into magazines. Condé Nast’s editorial director Alex Lieberman hired Demarchelier after being attracted to his style of editorial photography, which captured models visibly having a good time and as more of a character study. Demarchelier described his photography style as a “half second accident” as he had to work quickly to get the shot he desired. From here, Demarchelier shot covers for nearly every major fashion magazine from British, American, and Paris Vogue to Rolling Stone, Glamour, Elle, and Newsweek. In 1989, Princess Diana, a huge fan of his work, asked Demarchelier for a private portrait session. She then hired him as her personal photographer. He made history as the first non-British photographer hired by the royal family.
One of his most famous shots of Princess Diana sees her posing with a tiara on top of her head, hair styled by stylist Sam McKnight similar to that of model Linda Evangelista, and smiling into the camera.
pocket. The boy was, in fact, my son, and Diana, maybe because of her little boys, loved that picture so much that she got in touch. We became friends. She was funny and kind— but, fundamentally, she was a very simple woman who liked very simple things.”
When speaking of his relationship with Princess Diana, he said: “I remember when she first contacted me. I had done a picture for Vogue in which a model was opening her coat to show a little, laughing boy tucked into the inside
In 1992, Demarchelier shot his first campaign for British Vogue, which was the start of his 12-year collaboration with the magazine. At the time, he worked closely with Grace Coddington, whom he credits greatly for helping him launch his career.
LONDON RUNWAY Some of his most notable cover images include the heavily referenced Rolling Stone cover of a topless Janet Jackson, Vogue’s 100 anniversary special cover featuring a collection of supermodels all in white, and a young Kate Moss for Harper’s Bazaar. Alongside shooting countless celebrities and supermodels, Demarchelier also worked with numerous fashion brands such as Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Gianni Versace, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, Yves Saint Laurent, Lacoste, Ralph Lauren, and many more. Demarchelier was also referenced and made numerous appearances in TV shows and movies, most notably the 2006 movie The Devil Wears Prada. In one of the movie’s most famous scenes, Miranda Priestly
(Meryl Streep) asks Andy Sachs (Anne Hathaway), “Did Demarchelier confirm?”, leaving her utterly confused. However, towards the end of the movie, there is a full circle moment where Andy says, “I have Patrick.”, proving how far she has come. Demarchelier also appeared in the 2008 Sex and the City movie, photographing Carrie Bradshaw for Vogue magazine. He also made appearances in Cycle 15 of America’s Next Top Model and the 2009 documentary titled The September Issue about Editor Anna Wintour. Speaking of his talent, Anna Wintour said Demarchelier “takes simple photographs perfectly, which is of course immensely difficult. Working without ornate settings, often in black and white, he makes attractive women look
beautiful and beautiful women seem real. In Patrick’s kingdom, Cinderella could have arrived at the palace wearing Dior- or she could have worn nothing at all”. Demarchelier released a coffee table book titled Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier in October 2011. The book was a collection of photographs of Dior Couture dating back to Dior’s first collection in 1947. He also won numerous accolades throughout his career, such as the CFDA Founder’s Award in Honour of Eleanor Lambert and the French Ministry of Culture’s officier dans
l’ordre des arts et des lettres title in 2007. However, in 2018, Demarchelier’s reputation was tarnished after the Boston Globe’s Spotlight team surfaced sexual misconduct allegations against 25 industry professionals, Demarchelier being one of them. Though he completely denied all of the allegations and any wrongdoing, Condé Nast severed ties with him. On March 31st, the news of his death was announced on Patrick Demarchelier’s Instagram account. Sharing a picture of Demarchelier, the caption read, “It is with great sadness that we announce the passing of Patrick Demarchelier on March 31st, 2022, at the age of 78. He is survived by his wife Mia, his three sons Gustaf, Arthur, Victor and three grandchildren.” Admirers of his work, ranging from supermodels and celebrities, took to social media to share their condolences and memories with the late photographer. Gisele Bundchen shared a comment on Instagram saying “RIP #PatrickDemarchelier @patrickdemarchelier probably one of the photographers Gisele shot with the most in her career. He will be so missed.” Amber Valletta said “I’m so sadden by this news. Patrick was one of the first photographers to work with me. He is fashion history and legendary photography. We will miss him. I am sending love and good thoughts to his family.” Whilst the cause of Demarchelier’s death is unknown, his legacy will live on through the iconic images he left behind.
You can read more of Lucy’s work on Instagram @lucyzbrown. Images via @PatrickDemarchelier on Instagram and cover image via Rizzoli International Publications.
Beauty Photographer: Rina Shed @rina.shed Models: Tatyana; Anna Dunaeva @anya_dunaeva Makeup Artist: Daria Pivnyak @dary.marykay Accessory Designer: Ekaterina Dmitrova @katrina_jewelry
Model Anna Dunaeva wearing Ekaterina Dmitrova
5 Spring Styles We Love... And 5 We Never Want To See Again This week, Ruth chooses the top spring styles we want to see again and the ones we definitely don’t.
As I sit down to write this article, it is a beautiful spring morning. The sky is a watercolour painting of pale blue, and the sun is warming everything gold. I look out of my window and flowers have suddenly blossomed, primroses and daffodils, pretty splashes of colour against the red-bricked houses.
make coffee, sighing dreamily at the camera. Romanticism personified! It’s also, not to mention, incredibly comfortable and stylish again. The shirt dress is a design that can be worn to any event with its smart-casual vibe. Versatile, flattering, and effortlessly cool, it is the perfect style for a spring day and one to keep forever.
I realise that there is a reason why spring is so many people’s favourite season of the year. It is a time of rebirth, of change. You can literally see the world come back to life. It’s reminiscent of healing, of a powerful energy that is just so lovely to see. This is embodied every year in the fashion industry, with designers creating styles that emulate a bright new beginning.
Slip Dresses The slip dress is undoubtedly an iconic piece of fashion. They’re simple and sexy; they can be worn casually or dressed up to the nines. Originally worn in the Middle Ages beneath a woman’s dress as underwear, they were considered to be incredibly comfortable, especially in contrast to the corsets of the following Renaissance era. Then, in the 1700s, Queen Marie Antoinette chose to wear her slip on the outside when socialising with female friends, sparking the ‘underwear as outerwear’ trend. This filtered in and out of fashion for the next few hundred years, with the 1920s and 1960s reviving the slip dress and adding embellishments such as jewels and lace. It returned in the 1990s and, since then, has been here to stay. It’s a fun and flirty style and is perfect to dress up for those warmer spring months.
The looks presented at London Fashion Week 2021 are now making their way to the high street, and with that thought, it’s time to explore the five spring styles we’ve loved in the past and the five we never want to see again.
WE LOVE…
Denim Denim is one of those fabrics that is just timeless. It was first produced in the city of Nîmes, France and has since become a key item in most people's’ wardrobes. There are seemingly thousands of different pairs of jeans, from the basic skinny to flared. Then, there is the iconic denim jacket. All are famous for their effortless, chic look. Like most fabrics, denim is produced in a range of colours, but blue has to be the most classic style. It is the perfect vibe for spring and one we can’t help but love every year.
Maxi Dresses There isn’t really much we have to say about this one. The popular style was born in the 1960s by Oscar de la Renta, who took the formality of the long dress and turned it into something versatile. These days, the maxi dress tends to lean towards a bohemian vibe, but it has been styled in various different ways by normal people and celebrities alike. It is a staple for music festivals and days at the beach but can also be dressed up for an evening of cocktails paired with high heels and a light jacket. Most importantly, maxi dresses are incredibly comfortable. They’re flattering for all types of figure and are floaty and elegant. There are no downsides to this trend
Bardot Blouses This style is a personal favourite, mostly for its boho look. It’s pretty, stylish, and classic for a spring and summer wardrobe. It was first seen in the Regency era and soon became the height of fashion. However, its namesake comes from the French activist and former actress, Brigitte Bardot after she revived the fashion trend in the 1960s. We’re quite happy for this one to stay!
Shirt Dresses There’s no style more likely to make you feel like you’re in a romcom. Picture this: you’ve just woken up next to the person of your dreams. You slip on their shirt from last night and tiptoe into the kitchen to
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NEVER AGAIN… Florals As the iconic star of The Devil Wears Prada Miranda Priestly once said, “Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.” This was, of course, said in sarcasm, and we have to agree. Despite the fact that flowers are lovely to see when spring comes calling every year, it’s not necessarily something we need to see replicated in the fashion world at every turn. Floral designs can look incredibly pretty, and there’s no denying that it makes sense for spring fashion. But, it has been done so many times that there is nothing unique about the style, and the concept of spring bringing renewal is contradicted. We’ll just have to see if any designers have put their own twist on the trend this year. Butterflies and Creatures This is a look reminiscent of primary school. I’m sure every one of us wore butterfly hair clips or bright tshirts with various printed animals at some point. In the early 2010s, there was even an obsession in high street fashion with owls. Whilst this is a very cute look for those under the age of 12, it’s not a trend that needs to intertwine with adulthood. Even with the rise of Gen Z fashion and the return of low-rise jeans, crop tops, and double denim, we’re not sure we need to bring back this particular stylistic choice. Cut-out This is going to make me sound a lot older than I am, but I don’t understand the trend of cut-out clothing. It is one of the more daring looks from the past few spring seasons. It’s revealing and sensual..., but I can’t help thinking that the designer closed their eyes and cut wherever they liked. It’s very popular with the younger generation, so maybe they can keep it for themselves.
Neons This is a slightly controversial one, seeing that Fashion Week only recently presented several looks involving bright neon colours. There’s no denying that neon has been iconic in fashion history, with celebrities taking the trend by storm on the red carpet. Even idols like Beyoncé have been seen sporting fluorescent pink. However, it has the tendency to look lurid in the light of day and can look tacky. It’s a style that is incredibly hit or miss, and. this time, we’re going to have to choose miss. Polka Dots This is another controversial one, seeing that polka dots are one of the most beloved patterns. The trend became incredibly popular in the 19th century, and was revived in the 1960s with the release of the hit song, “Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini”. It’s a cute look that is still enjoyed in modern pop culture. Even Disney’s Minnie Mouse has a polka dot dress. But, for 2022 spring fashion, we’re thinking that it’s a little too retro. Polka dots are too bold, too cartoonish. There’s a reason why clowns are often seen wearing them. So, it is with a heavy heart that we say goodbye to the trend for now. Fashion is the passing of time in a bubble. It is a world where styles come and go into popularity extremely quickly. We have no doubt that, this time next year, our spring fashion opinions will have changed. But, for now, we remain loyal to the styles we love. As for the others… they’re destined for the back of the wardrobe. To read more of Ruth’s work, you can follow her on Instagram @thewriterruth.
All images via Pexel and Canva
Kim wears dress by Chic Atelier London @chic_atelier_ldn
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: KIM Name: Kim Engelhardt Age: 28 Location: London Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 6 years Where are you from originally? Hamburg, Germany Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I am quite bendy, so I can put my foot behind my neck. And, if that doesn’t
work for some reason, I just get my phone out and show everyone pictures of my cat. What would surprise people to know about you? I am a bass guitarist in an electronic band called Double Helix and am also training to be a hypnotherapist. What are your modelling ambitions? My ambition is to get signed to a decent agency and from there work on a range of different jobs. I would love to do more runway work too!
Photographer: Mihaela Rogova @photographermihaela Makeup Artist: Julia Leshanich @locca_mocca_makeup_ Model: Kim Paviano @kim_paviano
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: MADISON Name: Madison Brooks Age: 23 Location: Orange County, CA Agency: Freelance
and I can focus on my performance instead.
Where are you from originally? I’m originally from Long Beach, CA.
What would surprise people to know about you? I think most people would be surprised to know that I’m a total daredevil. I love to dirt bike and was raised on the back of a Harley Davidson. I definitely have a need for speed and a love for any sport where I can go fast and push my limits!
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? My most unusual talent is definitely my ability to memorise lines, song lyrics, etc. after only looking at them once. I can recite the full lyrics to just about any song off the top of my head. It’s a great party trick because it makes me unstoppable at karaoke,
What are your modelling ambitions? Modelling is my ultimate ambition. Ideally, I’d love to be signed to a major agency and travel internationally doing runway shows, print, and commercial work. I love the high fashion world and would love to model for high-end fashion brands and designers all over the globe.
How long have you been modelling for? I’ve been modelling for about a year and a half!
Fashion Designer: George Styler @george_styler Photographer: Jim Mullin @jimmullinphotographer Model: Madison Brooks @madisonralee
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: OMAEMA Name: Omaema Chtiar Age: 28 Location: London Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 8 Months Where are you from originally? Spain
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Dancing to Latin music What would surprise people to know about you? I am a paediatric nurse. What are your modelling ambitions? Work with big fashion brands
Model: Omaema Chtiar @_omaema_
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Mohammad Beheshti I am Mohammad Beheshti and I am 28 years old. I was involved in photography as a child because of my father, who was an amateur landscape photographer. I was an amateur photographer until I was 23, but after that, I entered the portrait and fine art genres professionally. I am a fantasist, and, because I cannot express it in words, I show it through photography. Showing people and combining them with other art media is something I'm working on. Photographer/Lighting Designer/Creative Director/Photo Editor: Mohammad Beheshti @mohammad.portrait Retoucher: Soheyla Beheshti @soheyla___sb Makeup Artist: Nazanin Tabatabayi @nazanin_tabatabayii Models: Sepita @sepitaa_; Bahar @elkayi Assistant/Videographer: Masoud Dayani @masood_dy
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portfolio piece
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Raveena Photographer: The MJ Studio / Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio Makeup: Latta Pathak @lattapathakmuah Hair: Attianaasma @attianaasma.ldn Model/Singer: Raveena Mehta @raveenamehtaofficial Outfits and Jewellary: Dimple Amrin @dimpleamrin
A few years before the pandemic, I spent three weeks on the west coast of the USA. After a week in Washington for work, we headed on, visiting 5 cities and the Grand Canyon in just under two weeks. It was heavy going. We drove over 2200 miles, through deep snow and into bright sunshine. Above all, it was an amazing journey, the kind that you never forget. And we managed it all on a shoestring budget. This was partly possible by rolling the trip onto the end of a work trip, which obviously won’t be something available to everyone. If you do have the chance to travel for work and have your transport funded, however, consider tacking a holiday onto the end of your stay. Some costs, such as your flight to the destination and home again, can be covered by work. A rental car can also cost less when you hire it for a longer time, so if your company covers the first part of the hire, you’ll get a great deal on the rest of your time. We started out by flying into Seattle, towards the end of February. There was a chill in the air, but we were lucky to spend a full day there without rain. We started out with our first stay in a real life American motel (just like you see in the movies!). Maybe it wasn't the highest quality place we've ever stayed, but it just felt like one of those cultural things that you have to try. Plus, it was a great budget-saver.
WEST COAST WANDERINGS We headed into the centre of the city, first walking along near the seafront and up towards the Space Needle. Along the way we passed the first Starbucks. After examining it – and the queue - closely from the outside, we decided that seeing it was enough. But we did find the time to stop in at a gorgeous little cafe/restaurant, which made the best grilled cheese I’ve ever tasted.
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We drove from Seattle to Kennewick and spent a week there on business, before heading onwards to the West coast. It was the drive from Seattle that provided the most excitement. There was a heavy snowstorm as we drove through the mountains, passing by Native American reservations on either side. The depth of the snow was like nothing I’ve seen in the UK. It was
magical, but also mildly terrifying as lorries skidded across the road in front of us. Big thanks have to be given to the rental car manager who took one look at us out-of-our-depth Brits and gave us a free snow tyre upgrade! We spent one night in Crescent City before driving down to San Francisco, where we spent two nights. One day had to be spent in Alcatraz, exploring the now-ghostly prison and the cells that held some of the world’s most famous inmates. Looking back across the water, we could see the areas we had been walking an hour or so before. Over the wall of the prison yard you can see the Golden Gate Bridge. This was an excellent visit and I would love to spend more time here in the future as there was so much to see and do. Alcatraz is a definite first-time must and does mean a bit of expense, but you can see most of the rest of the city for free.
As we left San Fran and drove through California, we headed through heavy fog. Though we could glimpse beautiful coastlines near Carmen, they were ethereal and lost in the near distance. Finally we emerged into clear weather and a point covered in elephant seals, or so the sign said. At first we thought they must be all out to sea – there were only large rocks on the beach. After a short while, when one of the rocks moved, we realised that the seals themselves were huge. We were reluctant to leave, but this was one of the longer drives of the trip, down to LA. Views along the side of the road also include giant, ancient trees as well as, nonsensically enough, zebras. Los Angeles was a surreal place, something that you have seen so many times on the television and in movies. The Witch House from Clueless, amongst others, loomed up as we toured around looking at celebrity houses. We saw the Walk of Fame, and the Chinese Theatre with celebrity hand prints and shoe prints on the pavement. Most breathtakingly, we went with family to visit an exclusive menswear label that caters only to princes, kings, Presidents, and A-listers, with a Bugatti Veyron parked outside. La La Land lived up to its name with a strange feeling of unreality. We saved money here by staying with family – if you do have family or friends living in other countries, it’s always a great idea to see if you can spend time with them or stay at their home to cut down on your costs. The lowest point of the journey – quite literally – was in Death Valley. The heat was oppressive here, and getting out to wander around, we could not stand being out of the car for long. The bluest possible sky hung over steep cliffs and heat hazes. At one stage, a coyote padded out of the mirage to stand in
front of us. Unsure what to do, we stopped the car. It inspected us closely, walking a circle around the car twice, before moving on. We also explored the abandoned town of Ryolite, which had a haunting emptiness. All this whole experience cost us was the price of gas.
Oregon
rive D o e d o R Ry
olite
Las Vegas
One sundown and one sunrise were spent sitting on the edge of the Grand Canyon, watching the colours change and the light shift. As a bucket list item, it was perfect. It was bitingly cold, but worth it. The view speaks for itself, and cannot be explained in words or with pictures. It’s also free to enter! Finally we ended up in Las Vegas, a city of sparkling lights and 24 hour entertainment. The buffets were amazing. The streets were thick with people selling tickets, handing out flyers, or begging. And of course, we failed utterly to win any money at all in a casino. One of the best tricks I learned in Vegas is that you only have to spend a small amount of money to get a lot. Put a dollar in a slot machine and you’ll be entitled to free drinks. You are expected to tip your waitress, but that still makes it cheaper than actually buying drinks at the bar. And the buffets they have in the casinos are not only immense value with as much food as you could imagine, let alone eat – they are also pretty easy to get free. At the time of our visit there was a promotion which meant you could spend virtual money playing online casino games and earn points to spend in Vegas itself – so for a few months before the trip I used my leisure time or moments of rest on the Tube to play the slots for free on my phone and rack up enough rewards to get two free buffet meals.
The biggest takeaway from the trip was the huge contrast between some areas of the country. Not only the geography, but the social strata also changed. In some states, beggars lined the streets and the service areas. In others, it seemed more comfortable. At the start of the journey we had been facing a blizzard; by the end, we had burnt skin and sunglasses permanently on our faces. It was a journey of contrasts, in so many ways. A road trip is a great traditional way to explore a new country, and it allows you to see so much more than you would have otherwise. So long as you don’t mind driving long hours, you make sure to factor in the price of petrol, and you’re not choosy about where you sleep for the short nights after long days of exploring, you can also do it on a shoestring without feeling like you’ve missed out on the experiences.
AFRICA FASHION COLLECTIVE Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino
ABRANTE
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ADEBAYO
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AGATHA MORANO
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HOUSE OF NWOCHA
SEVARIA
UNIKUTELLE
ZOHITAGLIT
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE
Aria (Pendant) Ethica Diamonds Cornwall £820
ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc
Cornelia Threader Circle Earrings Alison Fern £35
Amara Opuline £160
Riva Hoop and Kite Diamond Ring Set Monica Vinader £305 V Studs in Solid 14K Gold Stephanie Grace Jewellery £90
Riva Open Wrap Ring Monica Vinader £195
Lucy 18k Rose Gold Ethica Diamonds Cornwall £595
Elizabeth (18K White Gold) Ethica Diamonds Cornwall £6,600
Riva Diamond Cocktail Large Hoop Earrings Monica Vinader £375
Fiji Bud Diamond Cuff Monica Vinader £450
Bright Bar in Solid 14K Gold Stephanie Grace Jewellery £130
Lotus Flower Cuff Links Ethica Diamonds Cornwall £495
Coin Letter Stephanie Grace Jewellery £495
Bianca (Pendant) Ethica Diamonds Cornwall £1,100
Stellar Nightingale Price on Request
DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER PAGE 66
NEW BUSINESS I LIKE THE WAY SHE
Name of company: I like the way she Type of business: Jewellery Location: Wiltshire, England
What are your company values? To be as sustainable, unique, and accessible as possible. Everyone should be able to own handmade jewellery that doesn’t harm the planet or your wallet.
How long has the company been running? My first rings were sold in March of 2021, but the website officially launched in June 2021.
Currently, how many people work for the business? Just me; however, I use very talented freelance artists to create amazing visuals and a lot of my friends as models.
Where did the idea come from? I had the idea of a business called ‘I like the way she’ as long ago as 2015. I didn’t necessarily envision that it would be a jewellery business, but I liked the premise that it would be about little aspects that people noticed about you— maybe the way you dress, your hair, your clothes, your makeup. The jewellery aspect came in when I wanted to try and make things for me and my friends out of materials I already had, and then it blossomed to a fully sustainable jewellery operation.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? I think the best advice is to just keep experimenting with things that you like to make and hope that others will like them too. Instagram is such a good tool to figure out what people like. Don’t be afraid to create polls to see what will work for your audience. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years' time? I would love for ILTWS jewellery to be stocked in a physical shop or maybe a collaborative internet shop.
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Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
PART TWO
YU YOU
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LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION
LONDON RUNWAY
JING QIAH
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DIRK VAESSEN
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SHIQI ZHOU
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YULONG XIA
SHIJIE XU
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YICHENG FAN
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XUZHANG
HONG ZHAO
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XUEJIE LIU
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BOOK CLUB
My Year of Rest and Relaxation by Ottessa Moshfegh
This week Hannah Whittaker is looking at American author and novelist Ottessa Moshfegh’s 2018 novel, My Year of Rest and Relaxation.
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When life becomes overwhelming, whether it be from work, University, or just general life, I find that there’s nothing better for the soul than to pick up a good book. A good book ultimately comes down to personal preference. A novel that I may recommend as five stars may not appeal to you one bit, and it may take 200 pages for you to realise a certain book isn’t for you. But, with my reviews I hope to give you a small insight into why I love a book while at the same time keeping the element of surprise just for your reading experience. The book that I’m reviewing this month is quite like marmite– you’ll either hate it or love it. In my opinion, it was one of the most engaging and intricate novels I read this year and will definitely be in my top ten reads of 2022. My Year of Rest and Relaxation centres around the life of an unnamed young women living in New York City. Our narrator should be ‘happy’ being young, beautiful, and worry-free, not having to stress about money or a job. Whilst her friends believe she should be living the best life, she’s also facing loss, trauma, and severe depression. Following the death of both her parents within a year and the supposed ‘end’ of her unhealthy relationship with her Wall Street boyfriend, our narrator decides her only way to cope and survive is to sleep her life away for a whole year.
Perhaps the most important theme to mention that is brought up consistently throughout this novel is mental health and depression. When faced with severe depression, oversleeping is a common side-effect and one which takes centre stage in this book. Our narrator is facing significant trauma from both her parents’ deaths, with her dad from cancer and her mum from suicide. As the novel develops, we become aware that as a daughter, the narrator didn’t have a typical, loving family relationship with her parents. The relationship was in fact very detached and has, perhaps, only added to the seriousness of her mental health issues after their deaths. Although Moshfegh intertwines these difficult topics with a unique sense of dark humour, you still can’t help but feel sad for the narrator and what she is facing. The situation our narrator finds herself in is a bizarre one, but it is hard not to become emotionally invested in her mental recovery, and, as the reader, I found myself wanting her to sleep her worries away and awake a new and revived individual.
The reader is taken through the lead up and execution of this young women’s extreme plan where we experience sadness and a truthful representation of serious mental health issues intertwined with wicked humour, which gives this book an edge. I think the reason I loved this book so much and wanted to share it with you all is because I have never read anything like it, and the concept is so unique.
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The few characters which we are introduced to throughout the novel all tend to make her mental situation considerably worse. There’s the strained relationship with her best friend who, although attempting to help her friend, only tells her to drink and talk her sorrows away when her friend is clearly drowning her own sorrows with an unhealthy concoction of drugs. Perhaps the unhealthiest relationship is between our narrator and her supposed psychiatrist, Dr Tuttle. Ultimately, Dr Tuttle is our narrator’s enabler. This unhinged and rather horrid psychiatrist provides her with endless amounts of drugs to fuel her desire to sleep away her problems without even attempting to resolve the root of her issues. Although at first glance you may think this book is rather depressing, the dark and witty humour that Moshfegh integrates into the book make it such an enjoyable read. At its core this book may also seem boring. How interesting can a 200-page book about someone sleeping be?
"... LINGERS BETWEEN THE LINE OF REALITY AND ABSURDITY." You’ll find yourself laughing aloud at the general ridiculousness of the situation and at the wicked humour of the protagonist. The author has managed to reveal a realistic representation of what depression, anxiety, and trauma can do to someone while simultaneously managing to keep it lighthearted and keep you hooked. The constant absurdity of our narrator’s life, from her obsession with Whoopi Goldberg to her three-day blackouts, are what makes this novel stand out.
events allows the reader to really get into the mindset of the protagonist and help us understand why she’s doing what she’s doing, as sleeping for six months doesn’t really seem to be one of the smartest ideas. With this in mind, I will say that Moshfegh’s protagonist is not meant to be liked, a daring literary decision to make. I found myself getting frustrated with her at times and wanting to shake her out of this drug-fuelled obsession with sleeping her life away.
finish, Moshfegh’s unwinding of her narrator, layer by layer, made me see her in a different light.
Moshfegh’s humorous approach to some questionable and challenging
Whilst it is completely acceptable to hate a character from start to
You can read more of Hannah’s work by following @hw.reads on.
Ultimately this is a bold piece of work which lingers between the line of reality and absurdity. Moshefgh’s writing and prose brings this book to life and certainly makes it one that you can’t put down until it’s finished. This is a fascinating and engrossing novel which is full of twists and turns right to the very last page.
Page turner: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Complexity: ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Storyline: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
PART ONE
BRIDAL FASHION WEEK
Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino
MORILEE
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ROLAND JOYCE
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SAVIN
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SOTTERO AND MIDGLEY
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INTERVIEW
Alexander Belov Hear from Alexander Belov, a men’s fashion stylist and image coach.
Who are you, And what do you do? My name is Alexander Belov. I'm a fashion expert and critic trying to help Russian men to choose a stylish wardrobe. Usually, it's shopping or tailoring to order. Also, I train prospective stylists giving them this knowledge and manage the trainings for men teaching them to collect the perfect wardrobe on their own. I've been doing this for 16 years. How did you get into being a specialist fashion expert in men's style and image coach? What was your inspiration? My dad died when I was 11, and my mom worked as a teacher of the Russian language and literature. Our family was not prosperous, and growing up very quickly, I became the tallest one in the class. My mom could not always buy me new clothes, so our relatives gave us their unnecessary clothes. However, I didn't like it. It was oldfashioned, and I associated it with old Soviet clothes. I didn't feel myself comfortable enough among my classmates. But, I was very interested in studying and I'm naturally the perfectionist, so my childish desire to look good led me to the fact that I got carried away and realized that I have abilities in this field. As a result of many years of practice, I became a fashion expert. Did your upbringing or home have any influence on your decision? My dad was a scientist and inventor. I remember that when I was tiny, he liked to sew and dress elegantly. We owned the old Singer sewing machine. Using this, he altered the clothes which could be bought in the shops for my mom, sometimes for himself and me too. It's always been fascinating for me. There were only a few TV channels in our state, but one of the channels broadcasted fashion shows, and I really liked watching it with my Mom.
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I graduated from school with excellent marks. As I always liked computers too, I entered the Gubkin Russian State University of Oil and Gas and into the Faculty of Automation and Computer Engineering. But, soon I realized that the field of fashion is much closer to me, and my mom supported me in this choice. Do you ever come across any blocks or struggles in your career/industry? Yes, of course. The Russian man's fashion was not relevant before at all. Only now has something begun to change. Men consider clothes as not the main thing, a women or non-binary people prerogative. According to the opinion of others, it was an atypical choice of profession when I started doing this. There were very few male stylists, and in Russia, I became one of the founders of this trend. I encounter misunderstandings as to why a stylist is needed. They say to me, "If I want to buy food, I don't go there with a food selection specialist". But now, more and more people understand that the knowledge I give them is useful and applicable. This can be of great help in their personal life, career, or business negotiations. This is the investment in yourself that pays off many times. I have many examples in my practice when after our collaboration the person changing his appearance has a radical success in his job or private relations. In these moments, I feel that I am doing what I should do in my life. What are some achievements or awards you have received? I never tried to chase awards, but now at home, I have the showcase full of statuettes and diplomas. Just last year, I won three titles in Russia. Also, I have received two awards from the international fashion competition European Fashion Union, the first one in Budapest where in addition to participating in the ceremony I gave a lecture to Hungarian stylists. A year later, I received the Fashion Expert of the Year award at Fashion Week in Milan and the Blog Magazine Italy Awards award in Florence two years later.
What are some past works you’ve done that really pushed your creativity? I can mention my affection to antiques. For instance, a bronze of the XVII and XVIII centuries or art works of classicism. I often visit museums and exhibitions. In childhood, I liked the numismatics and collected old coins. I am sure that the spheres of art and fashion are close. You were recently at Moscow fashion Week, how was that? Fashion Week was held six months ago, and the new one will be very soon. The last one was quite modest due to Covid restrictions. However, I have noted several collections that had good perspectives. I look forward with hope to the future when everything in the world calms down.
Who are the people you style? Is there a process you go through when deciding? Absolutely different men from 18 to 60 years old, but more often around the 30– 40 age range. Usually they are businessmen, officials, politicians, and some media personalities– all people who care about their own appearance. My customers are successful men who understand the importance of the image for their activity. So, in choosing a wardrobe, I base their type of appearance on the physical features and the desired image and purposes they want to reach in work and life.
Alexander Belov
LONDON RUNWAY
How would you describe Russia's style? The neglect of appearance with using clothes only as weather protection is in the past. In large cities, many successful Russian men are well-dressed and selfconfident. But, of course, some nouveaux riches stand out by their passion for expensive brands with a big number of logos on all salient places to show having money. As a male stylist in Russia, how is that? (side question: Does the current war with Ukraine have any effect on your profession?) I would not say that this work is among the top of mostly demanded ones. This is a rather specific niche. Many people think that this work is the occupation of non-binary people to whom there is traditionally cautious attitude. But, information and education bring results, and more and more men understand how important this area is. So, I try to promote it as much as possible in social media and professional magazines. Since recent events, we all live in a difficult mode for the whole world. Probably you know that I’m completely not able to express my views because of new laws in Russia. I just say that the most fashion brands have temporarily ceased their presence in Russia, and their prices
have increased. For sure, many people are not temporarily interested in clothes, and some of capital inhabitants have left the country, so it had a negative effect on my work. What are your impressions of working with Western colleagues, communicating with famous stylists? Was communication easy, and which of the famous personalities (Domenico Dolce, Stefano Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford, Jean Paul Gaultier, Philipp Plein) left a more remarkable impression? I've met them but am not closely acquainted with everyone. Domenico Dolce was a very positive person. I met Jean-Paul Gaultier at his extensive cabaret show "Fashion Freak Show" at the Moscow Youth Palace and at the afterparty. He was open, energetic, and enjoying life like a teenager. Tom Ford presented his book to me. Philipp Plein had a small show in Moscow about ten years ago, when he was not such a famous designer yet. At that time, he opened his first store here. We met then, and he was very friendly, energetic, and sporty. Giorgio Armani had an impressive show in the Moscow art space "Tesla 4000" in 2016. Getting to know him was also very inspiring.
Do you have any hobbies? I often play the psychological team roleplaying game "Mafia" where you need logical thinking and the ability to convince, calculate mathematically, and involve people. I like to engage in mentalism to develop the capabilities of my brain and my creative abilities. I also attend art and painting lectures and etiquette trainings. Recently, I started to study vocals at a specialized school with professional teachers. What goals, professionally and personally, are you aiming for in the future? I want to do a lot, like publish a large colourful book about men's fashion in Russian. I wish my dream to come true so that all Russian men start looking stylish and beautiful. Hopefully, the link between Russians, tastelessness, and absurd clothes will disappear forever. Big plans for the family creation. What would you like to wish our readers? Always be yourself with love, beauty, and peace.
BRIDAL FASHION WEEK
PART TWO
Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino
MAGGIE SOTTERO
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REBECCA INGRAM
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A Woman’s Best Friend, but anybody’s really, Candice brings you diamond accessories shapeshifted to suit the unique signs, making them shine even brighter!
Aries March 21 - April 20
Alex Monroe - Plume & Champagne Diamond Drop Earrings “18ct gold feathers float beneath sparkling champagne diamond studs…” Sustainably handmade in England, this delicate yet striking piece suits the eclectic, risk-taking Aries not afraid to break the fashion bounds!
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Rachel Balfour - The Diamond Dala Horse A symbol of quiet strength, the horse design of the necklace features 16 diamonds running across the back. As an earth sign, Tauruses are known for their stability and hard work, so this necklace highlights that strong foundation in a playful manner.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Kimaï - Unity Necklace The 42 lab-grown diamonds are set in 18K recycled solid gold and handmade into this beautiful chain linked necklace. Geminis, with their playful, youthful aesthetics, will adore the cute and meaningful design.
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Cancer June 22- July 22 Matilde Jewellery - Amor Bracelet 12 ethical, lab-grown diamonds in a delicate chain with diamond-studded hearts exude Cancer energy. As part of the Heritage Collection at Matilde, the recycled gold colour and vintage design make this bracelet perfect for the vintage-loving sign.
Leo July 23- August 21 Pascale James - The Milky Way Marquise Ring “Classically mimicking nature…”, this pendant features ethically mined Canadian diamonds and 18ct Fairtrade yellow gold. Elegant and eye-catching, Leos will feel an instant connection with this piece.
Virgo August 22- September 23 Monica Vinder x Mother of Pearl - Galaxy Diamond Pendant Fine Chain Necklace As earth signs, Virgos are practical and methodical, but their creativity and innovation is otherworldly. This minimalistic galaxy design necklace will suit the fashion and mental aesthetic of this powerhouse sign.
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Libra September 24- October 23 Olivia & Pearl London - Diamond Huggies and Tiny Circle Pearl Charm Set The trio of recycled silver, ethically handsourced pearls, and sustainable diamonds makes this earring set the best gift for Libras. As the romantic signs that they are, they’ll love the elegant pearls and quirky design.
Scorpio October 24- November 22
The Diamond Store - 0.19ct Diamond and Silver Twist Bracelet UK hallmarked silver with premium, conflict-free diamonds, this wave-like bracelet is the perfect added bit of shine to a Scorpio’s always put together fits.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Rachel Balfour - The Diamond Universe Necklace These adventuring wanderers will love artlike pieces. With 33 diamonds embedded in your choice of a nine or 18ct gold disc, this necklace will give a subtle statement to any travel pictures!
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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Orelia London - Pave T-Bar Drop Huggie Hoop Earrings The more financially responsible of the signs, Capricorns will appreciate the affordability and quality of these diamond-like huggie earrings. Pave encrusted 18K gold, these sophisticated earrings suit any outfit.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19
Lark and Berry - Wave Diamond Ring As the water bearers, the water symbolises the flowing energy of these enchanting air signs. This ring features cultured diamonds that are more sustainable and ethical and a wave design that encapsulates the healing and cleansing auras of these signs.
Pisces February 20 - March 20 Edge of Ember - Crescent Moon Diamond Stud Earrings Dreamy and diamond-studded, Pisceans will quickly make these earrings an accessory favourite. These lab-grown diamonds are not only good for the environment but also for an ethereal accent to any ear stack.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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House of iKons
PART 2
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
The Fashion Life Tour
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N8 by Nathan VanDeVelde
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Jennifer Younger Designs
LONDON RUNWAY
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Bladimir Sigua
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Active Kids Wear by Victoria Venczel
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
QUESTION?
&
"One of my personal favourites is the pink and purple combo—the purple candy shade with the pink really keeps the outfit looking fresh, feminine yet vibrant and colourful" “I always pair black with dark red/burgundy, I love that pop of
eye-catching colour, and it works perfectly for every night out.”
- Miss Malini, fashion blogger
“BLACK AND WHITE ALWAYS .” – Amber Johnson, publishing assistant and entrepreneur
- Ruth Croft, writer
“PINK AND RED! MAKE A BOLD STATEMENT” - Rhiannon D'Averc, editor, photographer, mother, author, and more!
"I just love anything grey or navy & have a real problem not being drawn to it" – Jane at My Midlife Fashion, fashion blogger
As someone who only wears black... I love to mix patent and matte blacks!
"Black and Grey, it blend perfectly with the shadows making you almost invisible." - Fil Mazzarino, photographer
“Blues and purples are my gotos! I love how representative of the sky and water the combo is!”
– Lauren Rowley, graphic designer - Candice Wu, editorial assistant
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
NEXT: THE FLOWER ISSUE THE DIAMOND ISSUE
FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT LONDON SEVEN COLLECTIVE BY FIL MAZZARINO