SOIDUTS OLYN . WOHS NOIHSAF TRAEH . KEEW TAH NODNOL
MLIF NI STAH . YTIVISULCNI DNA SOSA . OIM AILUIG HTIW WEIVRETNI
ISSUE 12 S/S 2018
LONDON
RUNWAY
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CONTRIBUTORS Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu Lead Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc Photographer: Joanna Foster Lead writer: Rachel Parker Lead graphic designer: Sophie Brown Lead stylist: Monica Pereira
Special thanks to Giulia Mio
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IN THIS ISSUE Letter from the Editor
We've been all about hats this week, as London Hat Week took over our capital with a wide array of headwear. We stopped in at the Great Hat Exhibition, where hats from around the world enjoyed the spotlight together. From there it was a hop and a skip over to Edwina Ibbotson's base, to see work from the milliner herself as well as her students. Hat Week continued with exhibitions of the HATTalk competition winners, alongside a larger fair for milliners to grab their materials. We managed to find the time to slip in some fashion that wasn't hat-related, too. The Heart Fashion
show, first of its kind, raised money for the charity Mind whilst also showcasing the work of some up and coming designers. Meanwhile, over at Nylo Studios, a small collection of new looks was debuted for the first time to the public. We've had a lot to talk about, too. ASOS started adding photographs to item listings which showcase a more diverse range of shapes, sizes, and colours, and we've got a few thoughts to share about that. Later in the issue you will also read about the role of hats in film, as well as Lacoste's new range of charity polos designed to
save some endangered animals. We're looking forward to covering some new shows for you in the next issue, as well as bringing you our first editorial shoot. Excited? You bet we are. As always, drop us a line via londonrunwaymag@gmail.com if you have a show you think we should see, or a feature you think we should run. Enjoy - and remember to follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram.
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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NYLO STUDIOS
The NYLO Studios preview presentation celebrated power dressing with a feminine edge, matching the models’ lipstick to their pastel suits. The capsule collection played with dramatic silhouettes, teaming statement blazers with oversized sunglasses in a nod to the current catwalk eighties obsession. Yet the professional styling was offset with softer touches; trousers were loose and in fluid fabrics, and bold monochrome was juxtaposed against pieces in lilac, mint and silvery-pink. This was a confident first collection from an exciting new womenswear label.
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HEART FASHION : AXIIOM The first ever Heart charity fashion show kicked off with designs by Axiom. Sumptuous materials in jewel tones were matched against asymmetric jackets on the models strutting down the runway. The event was held in support of mental health charity Mind, recognising the stress and pressure that can be felt in the fashion industry.Â
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NEXT UP WAS BLITZ VINTAGE, SHOWCASING ITEMS FROM THEIR STOCK. UTILITARIAN LOOKS WERE PLACED ALONGSIDE MINIS AND BERETS
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ASOS MAKES ONLINE SHOPPING INCLUSIVE NEW FEATURE ROLLOUT Rhiannon D'Averc considers ASOS' recent update, featuring models of all shapes and sizes. The latest buzz in online shopping is not a particular dress of uncertain colours, or this season's must-have statement accessory. No - it's a web retail portal's decision to change the way that they feature their models. ASOS have taken the latest step in what has been a long-running journey of inclusivity. Their prior efforts have included the creation of a genderneutral clothing collection, a ban on the use of Photoshop in product imaging, and a controversial decision to stock sizes both higher and lower than the norm. While they faced criticism from some corners for the launch of size 2 clothing, this latest update has been attracting nothing but praise.
They have taken the decision to shoot some items of clothing on multiple models, so that buyers can see the outfit on different shapes, sizes, and skin tones. The featured models range from petite to plus-sized, and cover a wide array of races. A statement from the company read,"We’re always testing new technology that can make our customers’ experience even better. In this case, we’re experimenting with AR (augmented reality) to show product on different size models, so customers can get a better sense of how something might fit their body shape." Many customers took to Twitter and other social networks to share their positive thoughts on this latest change. Although not all items on the site were included in the initial launch, more are being added to the site with time. This is just one example of the wave of inclusivity that has lately seemed to be unstoppable. With gender equality being called for more urgently than ever before, a new spotlight has been shone on the cultural practices we all follow - and how to make them more comfortable for the women in our society. Not only that, but to make the experience of being a woman comfortable in itself - so that women can love and
ARTISTS, ALGORITHMS & AUTHENTICITY accept themselves for who they are. Steps like this, which reject the 'perfect' ideal of a leggy blonde model with a flat stomach, take us further in that direction than ever before. Of course, there is always another side to every story. The cynic may protest that all of the women chosen to model the clothes are still beautiful - hardly the average girl you would pass on the street. They might also protest that we are reaching a new age of political correctness gone mad, where retailers have to shoot each item of clothing 8 different ways in order to avoid offending potential customers. Then again, those cynics would be overlooking a very important point. Representation is not something that you can miss unless you don't have it; not something that you even consider if it is already yours. But many people don't see that representation in mainstream media. This is the very reason why phenomenons like the Black PantherÂ
film - starring actors of colour in lead roles as superheroes, and filling a large percentage of the cast - have proven so popular. Rather than letting this wave pass by, ASOS are doing the right thing by jumping on board. They are demonstrating that they care about their customers - and they want their customersÂ
to feel recognised. As they showed previously, during the controversy over their size 2 stock, their goal is to make as many customers feel included as possible, rather than allowing anyone to feel marginalised while browsing their site. It's simply good business sense - but of course, few other online
ARTISTS, ALGORITHMS & AUTHENTICITY retailers have caught on thus far. We'll go on record to predict that the status quo will not remain much longer: other retailers will adopt this strategy, and if they're smart, they will do it fast. It's a powerful experience to see a curvy Asian woman, or a bald female model, or a male model wearing the same as a female. It's powerful because we are starting to see these things being represented more and more. For every curvy Asian woman, or bald woman, or gender fluid person sitting at home looking at their screen, it's a reminder that they aren't alone in the world. And, just maybe, it's a way for them to shop with more confidence that the clothes will actually look good on them, too.
5 FASHIONÂ FORWARD STEPS FOR ASOS & INCLUSIVITY 1
Big range of plus-size clothing
2
Introduction of sizing down to UK 2
3
Ban on use of Photoshop
4
Gender-neutral clothing
5
Models of different shapes, colours, and sizes
All images via Asos/Twitter
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EASTER SPECIAL
HEART FASHION: HOUSE OF DU House of Du's aesthetic incorporates bold statements, printed across the chests of models. Urban stylings are reflected in the mostly white collection. The show also featured a dance performance choreographed by Perry Francis, and soulful singing from Valentina.
BUY ONE,GET O
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NOEMIEÂ WILSON CLOSED OUT THE SHOW WITH DUSKY PINKS, CAMO, AND SWEATSHIRTS APLENTY
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THE HATTALK CONTEST WINNERS WERE ON DISPLAY DURING LONDON HAT WEEK'S EXHIBITION
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Attracting over 170 entries from 31 different countries, the 2018 HATalk Competition Exhibition showcased some of the most exciting new talents and techniques in headwear design. The winners were selected by a panel of judges and a public vote, and the categories awarded designers working with both traditional and modern millinery techniques.
Winning entries included Rachel Henry’s ‘Rosa Synthesis’, a crown of laminated hibiscus flowers which merged the natural with the synthetic in an original interpretation of the competition’s theme of ‘fusion’.
GIULIA MIO
INTERVIEW
We were able to grab Giulia during the Great Hat Exhibition to chat about her work, the hat she had on display, and what's coming up in her next collection. Hi Giulia! Tell us about yourself. My name is Giulia Mio, and I’m an Italian couture milliner based in Leicester. I’ve been doing millinery officially for three years, more or less, but I was taught in Italy in the Academy of Fine Arts. I’m coming not from fashion, but from costume and theatre, so a very unusual background. Tell us about the hat you have on display here. My piece is called The Concept of Beauty, and it is inspired by the The Birth of Venus by Botticelli, the most famous painting of the Renaissance. It was part inspired by the Italian Renaissance in itself, but also, I think the strength of Italy is the tradition and the techniques. It was willingly made with a lot of effort, making a lot of small details, a lot of little things that just from up close you can actually appreciate. Although Italy is a very traditional country, really what we know is craftsmanship. So the full idea was not making a commercial hat at all – I don’t think many people would actually wear that hat willingly – but it’s really about, that’s what human beings can achieve, and the Renaissance for me is one of the most interesting times in art. Not because of Italians, but because of the way they approached culture, the way they tried to dig out. They reinvented everything. They had absolutely no clue what they were doing, they just did it. It was just kind of an homage to my country, but also what it represents for me.
Is that something that comes into your work often? It does. When I define myself as a couture milliner, I mean it in the true sense of it, so everything is completely handmade. The details in the finishing are obsessively detailed and clean. You will never see me use glue anywhere – that’s a no-no in millinery anyway! We get more flexible with time, it’s just that I strive for perfection. It’s mental, I know, but that’s what I like! But it’s very balanced, very artistic, I think timeless. How does fashion impact you? I don’t follow fashion much. If there is a colour in trend I don’t like, I won’t use it, or if there is a shape that has been very popular and it’s not my cup of tea, as you say here, I won’t use it as much. I mainly work bespoke, so a customer comes to me and I create it for the customer, with the customer. It’s not commercial whatsoever… that’s why I’m broke, basically!
"DEEP INSIDE I’M JUST A CRAZY ARTIST WHO MAKES HATS FOR A LIVING"
What kind of hats do you usually create for your clients? I am very fond of races. I create unusual races hats – not unusual in the sense that they are funny, but unusual in the sense that I design them with my customer. It’s not just that they pick one of my designs and they just change the colour and that’s it. If they say I would like a large boater hat, for example, it could be dyed this way: so I dye the straw, or I dye the material, and make the flowers the colour they want, and “Can we place it here”…. It’s a very interactive combination of skills. Most of the time I agree with my customer, sometimes maybe not, so I kind of tell them in a very nice way! My kind of hats are event hats, although I’ve started to make smaller collections with more wearable hats. I’m enjoying it – I thought it would hate it to be honest! Leicester is not really a posh town, so it happens rarely that someone buys one of my couture hats, but they are liked. What's next for you? I’ve made my first winter collection. I’m trying to downsize a little bit the couture side, but deep inside I’m just a crazy artist who makes hats for a living. My winter collection is based on
jewel colours, and that’s the only thing I will say… and I will say also that I love working with feathers, and that’s another thing I will say, and that’s it! I’m going to present it probably late summer, so stay tuned. If our readers wanted to place an order with you, what should they do? I have my website, that is www.giuliamiomillinery.com. Usually you can’t buy on my website, you have to get in touch with me because they’re all oneoff pieces or made to order. I’m part of Herald and Heart in Fulham, so they should be having some of my pieces for Ascot this year. I signed up also for the X-Terrace in Royal Ascot Emporium, so five of my pieces – all couture pieces, so they’re going to be expensive, sorry guys! – they’re going to be there as well, in Kensington.
Images by Rhiannon D'Averc & SteveDotPhoto
With over 300 hats on display by 150 different designers, there was something for everyone at The Great Hat Exhibition. Each hat was inspired by a different country, culture and traditional craftmanship, meaning there was a whole world of stunning headwear to explore. Designs ranged from the elegant to the surreal and showcased every material from Perspex to pompoms. Taking its name from the 1851 Great Exhibition of industry and culture, the 2018 London Hat Week official exhibition was a perfect display of everything the millinery industry has to offer.Â
THE GREAT HAT EXHIBITION
This page: Monique Lee Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Margo Chamberlain Millinery, Yooney, The Sydney Millinery Co, Yooney, Valentina Sarli
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Clockwise from top: Pyewacket Millinery, Angie Jackman Millinery, Twisted Thimble Couture, Anna Gilder, Velma's Millinery & Accessories, Winnie Lin Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Stavroula Spyrou, Eleonora Gaskova, Eun Young Lee Millinery, Wendy Scully Millinery, Sara Tiara, Leticia Alfaro
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Clockwise from top:Â Ushakova Elena, Maria Koko Designs, Christine's Atelier, Elizabeth Christian Design
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Clockwise from top: Katalin Merksz Millinery, Madame B's Boutique, Eleonora Gaskova, Yuan Li London
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Clockwise from top: Baldacchini, Ana Bella Millinery, UEKISART, Jaycow Millinery, Monica Feher Millinery, Yuan Li London
Exhibition curator Monique Lee had eight hats on display, showcasing her award-winning brand Monique Lee Millinery. She founded the X Terrace Fashion Platform to make it easier for European and global fashion talents to connect and collaborate in paid partnerships.Â
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GREAT HATS
Some of the exhibiting designers platformed political messages through their headwear. Many pieces were inspired by activism and unity, including a laser cut hat celebrating the Women’s Suffrage Movement, featuring a ‘Votes for Women’ slogan. This page: Shandana
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Clockwise from top: Natasha Marinacci Modista, Lazovski, Shandana, Suzanne Ryan Millinery, Amanda Keitch, BohoÂ
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Clockwise from top: SU.MA, Jayne Elizabeth Millinery, SU.MA, Eleonora GaskovaÂ
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Clockwise from top: Atelier Millinery, Smithbilt Hats Inc, Natasha Mobey Millinery, 1966, JCN FascinatorsÂ
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Clockwise from top:Die Hutisserie, Xin Zhang Design, Sochorova, Margaret Woodliff Wright Millinery, Jenepher Walker MillineryÂ
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Clockwise from top: R. R. Pascoe, Stavroula Spyrou, Margaret Woodliff Wright Millinery, Mel's Marvellous Millinery, Camilla Rose Millinery
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Clockwise from top:Trente Si, Julian Garner Headwear, Aime O Shea Designs, Liza Georgia Millinery, What a Great Hat!, Eleonora Gaskova
HATS ON FILM Taking inspiration from the beautiful headwear on display during London Hat Week, we look at some of the most iconic hats in film history and how you can wear them in 2018!
Breakfast at Tiffany’s - 1961 No movie costume could be more iconic than Audrey Hepburn’s black Givenchy dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The outfit would not be complete without a wide brimmed hat and dark glasses, lending an elegance that has given this fashion moment its timeless appeal.
THE HATS ON FILM THAT CHANGED HISTORY
Annie Hall - 1977 Diane Keaton’s androgynous aesthetic in Annie Hall has long been a source of on-screen style inspiration, spawning generations of women in crisp white shirts, slouchy tailoring and straight ties. The look is perfected witha black bowler hat, adding a quirky touch to the masculine styling. Desperately Seeking Susan - 1985 Desperately Seeking Susan teaches us that no eighties punk outfit is complete without an oversized velvet bow atop a messy perm. Wear with chunky jewellery and a statement blazer to channel the eighties resurgence, or if you’re feeling brave enough to go full Madonna, fingerless gloves.
HATS ON FILM
Clueless - 1995 Cher’s closet has a cult following of its very own, with a host of apps seeking to recreate her virtual dressing room and entire trends dedicated to emulating her aesthetic. Clueless is fashion shorthand for preppy tartan co-ords, knee socks and copious Calvin Klein- but let’s not forget the power of the humble beret to elevate anyone’s Most Capable Looking Outfit. Love, Actually - 2003 Let’s be honest, Keira Knightley giggling ‘‘I look quite pretty!’’ while watching her own wedding video AND effortlessly rocking a denim bakerboy cap might be the most irritating moment in movie history. The current noughties revival sees baker-boy hats appearing all over the high street; time to take note from everyone’s favourite Christmas rom-com. Moonrise Kingdom – 2012 This Wes Anderson film matches vintage cinematography to a wardrobe of hazy colour palettes, Peter Pan collars and sixties styling. Emulate Kara Hayward in her deep pink beret and co-ordinating coat, or try a fur cap inspired by Jared Gilman and his boy-scout uniform.
All images via Instagram
Pretty Woman - 1990 First Cinderella appeared at the ball in a gown, and then there was Julia Roberts at the races in her brown polka dot dress and sunhat trimmed with matching ribbon. Pretty Woman provides a whole wardrobe of headwear inspiration; from Vivian’s platinum wig and Beatles cap to the black boater she dons to confront rude shop staff, this film shows us that the right hat can complete any look.
GREAT HAT EXHIBITION CONTINUED
The exhibition featured everything from avantgarde art pieces to wearable Ascot essentials, celebrating culture and craftmanship through beautiful millinery.
Clockwise from top: Miss Haidee Millinery, Ana Espina by Anaisa
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Clockwise from top: Yooney, Margaret Woodliff Wright Millinery, Hatonista, Yooney, Hat Trick Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Beretkah...!, Anya Morris Millinery, Jane Fryers Millinery, Hatonista, Hope BespokeÂ
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Clockwise from top:Â LinmiR Millinery, Millinery by Marsha, Tamsyn Brocks Millinery, Natasha Mobey Millinery, Ochini Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Bjornram Millinery, Hat Trick Millinery, Xin Zhang Millinery, Twisted Thimble Couture, Beretkah...!
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Clockwise from top: SU.MA, Pamela Castiglia, Atelie Mariana Ribeiro, Hourik Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Sheila Morley Millinery, Stephanie Gallen Millinery, Wendy Scully Millinery, UEKISART
This page:Â The Head Bloomer
GREAT HAT EXHIBITION: FINAL LOOK
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Clockwise from top: Yujied Hats, Die Hutisserie, Hip-Hats, Hats by Sandy A
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Clockwise from top: Philippa Brooks Millinery, Victoria Charles Headpieces, Lauren J Ritchie, Nicola Jayne Didcott Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Sharper Millinery, Julian Garner Headwear, Die Hutisserie, Minivers Vintage
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Clockwise from top: Steven's Hats, Wendy White Millinery, Lisa Jayne Millinery, Saraden Designs
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Clockwise from top: Rene Mantilla, A Pate Designs, Irina Saradeva Couture Millinery, Naomi Uhlig
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Clockwise from top: Dario Quintavalle (Rub & Dub), Sara Tiara, Casual Couture, Xin Zhang Design
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Clockwise from top: Laia Molina Tarruella, Angels & Insects Edinburgh, Angels & Insects Edinburgh, Vivian Blooms, Hats_byMaria
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Clockwise from top: Hats by Felicity, Chapeaux Fous, Tamaran, Dorothy Morant Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Yuan Li London, SB Millinery, Karin Cogen Millinery, Monica Feher Millinery
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Clockwise from top: Xin Zhang Design, Embellish Atelier, Sova, Yooney, Emma Fozard
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Clockwise from top: MacCana Millinery, Yooney, HatsBazaar, LinmiR Millinery, Susan McArthur Millinery, Chaperon Hats
EDWINA IBBOTSON
Filled with an array of feathered and floral confections, milliner Edwina Ibbotson describes her South London boutique as a ‘chocolate shop for grown-ups’. Her exhibition for London Hat Week showcased work by past and present students of the bi-weekly workshops held in her store. With designs ranging from a feathered tiara inspired by the Greek muse Calliope to intricately detailed, vintage style fascinators, the exhibition revealed a wealth of new millinery talent. Each piece was made by hand and one of a kind, creating individual headwear for the individual.
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LACOSTE FOR THE ANIMALS
SAVE OUR SPECIES
Partnering with the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), fashion brand Lacoste has switched their signature crocodile logos on their polo shirts to 10 endangered species in attempts to raise awareness for the animals in their new ‘Save Our Species’ line. For the first time in the company’s 85 years of operations, they have swapped their logo for a praise-worthy cause. Some of the animals represented on these shirts include the Sumatran Tiger, Kakapo Parrot, and the Javan Rhino with only 350, 157, and 67 of these shirts produced respectively. The produced amount of limited edition shirts correlated to the estimated amount
of the species left in the wild, bringing more attention to the dwindling numbers and the animal’s struggle for survival. With a 3 year partnership, the sales from Lacoste’s new shirts, costing £140 each, will go directly to the International Union for Conservation of Nature to help protect the endangered animals. Presented at Paris Fashion Week, the shirts were instantly a hit. With 1,775 shirts produced in total, the line quickly sold out of shirts within hours of their release. This equates to about £248,500 in donations to the IUCN.
There has been a mass of positive reception towards Lacoste’s innovative and forward-thinking idea. Those purchasing the polo shirts who weren’t aware of the endangered species are now made aware of their existence and struggles.
SAVE OUR SPECIES Not only are animal rights activists ecstatic over this, the credibility of the fashion industry also benefits. It shows a great step forward in the industry and just how inspirational and powerful their influence can be if marketed correctly. Soon, other brands will follow in Lacoste’s lead and unite with other organizations such as the IUCN to make a more positive environmental footprint or revolution. Environmental stability and sustainability and the global extinction threat are of the utmost importance right now, and brands and companies like Lacoste are paving the way for a more environmentally conscious and proactive fashion industry.
All images via Lacoste
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A/W 18
Front cover: Yooney at the Great Hat Exhibition Back cover: Hat on display from the Hat Works Museum, Stockport, during London Hat Week