INTERVIEWS WITH SKINNY LOVE FILM AND FRENCH TOUCH EVENTS . PERSONAL STYLING INVESTIGATED
LONDON PACIFIC FASHION WEEK . FASHION HONG KONG . EDELINE LEE . JAMIE WEI HUANG . MALAN BRETON
ISSUE 38 18TH MAY 2019
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino Staff Stylist: Melina Hadjiargyrou News Editor: Madeleine Coffey - news@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Neil Dowd - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Arts Editor: Marie Fourmeaux - arts@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Writer - Joanna Cunningham Staff Illustrator - Joe Bailey Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Nikol Konstantinidou, Rachel Perez, Louisa Kazig Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Bate Nate H, Cara Balen, Alex Rorision, Laetitia Tomasso, Yei Jewellery, Jurga Sidagyte, Beyond Yonder Productions, Chloe-Jasmine Whichello, Marie-Laurence Hagopian, Spring London, Fashion Hong Kong, Surjit Pardesi, We Are Village, Fashion Scout Special thanks to: Colourshop, Morgane Lola, Oliver Vaillant, Kayleigh-Paige Rees
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk or apply via FashionJobs.com
Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London stockists: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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EDITOR'S LETTER W
elcome to the Overseas Issue special, in which we are enjoying looking around the world for our fashion inspiration. While we are firmly based in London, we do see designers, models, and other professionals from all around the world. That’s one of the things we love about our capital: the sheer diversity that you can see just by walking down the street, and the fact that the calibre of our fashion industry attracts people across the globe to come and live and work with us. That’s why we’re celebrating fashion from afar, even though the shows that you will see in these pages took place in London. We’re going to Hong Kong, France, New Zealand, Fiji, Tonga, American Samoa, Italy, and plenty of other locations in this issue, visiting designers who take a traditional look at their country’s couture as well as a more avant garde approach.
You can expect to read interviews with a group of singers who will be performing in London over the coming months, as well as with an actress who has previously graced our cover as a model. We have an investigation into the latest trend for personal styling even on the high street, and a preview of the artists performing at the upcoming Slam Dunk festival. We have an editorial which you have already glimpsed on the cover, with one of our favourite artists – Bate Nate H. Complete with illustrations by Joe Bailey, it’s something you won’t want to miss. We also have a gorgeous and fun editorial that will make you feel like going out and putting your glad rags on! Don’t forget to read our final article, a casting report from the latest round of the Face of London Runway 2019 competition. We’re super excited to present our finalists, and we can’t wait for you to see the photoshoot we’re organising for
the final stage. You’ll be able to get involved with your votes, so this is a great opportunity to help us pick our new cover stars! If there’s one thing that we can take away from the talent on display in this issue, it’s that we are better when we forget that we are an island. There is so much to be learned from other cultures, so much potential and inspiration to be garnered from both our neighbours and those further afield. As we look forward to the Eurovision Song Contest, which will be held the night of this issue’s release, let’s remember that we will always be part of Europe geographically – no matter what our politics say. Now with a good old-fashioned “Can’t we just all get along?!”… Enjoy,
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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CONTENTS
17 VISUALS
71 WORDS
London Pacific Fashion Week
7
Fashion News
4
Slime (cover editorial)
17
14
New Faces
29
License to Style: A Personal Shopping Experience on the High Street
#londonrunwaystyle
37
Fashion Hong Kong
46
Star Quality: How Jeffree Star's 26 Rise to Fame Reflects the New World of Social Media Makeup
Edeline Lee
53
French Touch Interviews
38
Style (Conscious) Guide: Overseas Trip
59
A Glossary of Terms Used By Photographers
57
iamchen
60
Slam Dunk 2019: Artists to Watch
81
Jamie Wei Huang
64
Life Is A Party (editorial)
71
Malan Breton
83
Neighbourhood Voices: Lower Marsh Markets
87
House of iKons
100
Interview: Kayleigh-Paige Rees 91 Your Style Horoscope
96
Casting Report: The Face of London Runway 2019
118
The Big Question
122
LONDON RUNWAY
HALIMA ADEN MAKES HISTORY (AGAIN!) Aden’s spread for SI was shot at Watamu Beach in Kenya, where she was born in the Kakuma Refugee Camp after her family fled civil war in Somalia. There, a young Aden suffered several cases of malaria, before leaving the camp and migrating to the US with her family at the age of six. Despite this she says, “I still remember the smiles, the community, I remember a great childhood. It’s quite an amazing feeling because girls will see they can wear a burkini and hopefully feel inspired to join their swim team in school… It’s just another tool to feel represented.” Aden is no stranger to breaking
boundaries. In 2016 she was the first fully-covered Muslim contestant to compete in the Miss Minnesota USA pageant, aiming to challenge misconceptions about Islam. This led to Aden’s signing to IMG Models, and appearance on various covers including Vogue Arabia and Teen Vogue, as well as ad campaigns for Rihanna's Fenty Beauty line. In 2018, she became the first woman of colour to wear a hijab on the cover of British Vogue. Aden continues to use her empowering motto of “Don’t change yourself... change the GAME!” We can’t wait to see what’s next.
FASHION
Adding to her portfolio of firsts, twenty-one-year-old model Halima Aden has become the first woman to wear a hijab and burkini to appear in Sports Illustrated (SI). Known for its display of minimalist swimwear and sultry models, this is a drastic change for SI and its barely-there bikini shots that make up much of the magazine’s usual coverage. "Growing up in the States, I never really felt represented because I never could flip through a magazine and see a girl who was wearing a hijab," Aden says in a video for SI, as she models several head-to-toe swimwear designs. "Don't be afraid to be the first."
NEWS BY MADELEINE COFFEY
via Instagram
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LONDON RUNWAY
FASHION
TRAGIC RUNWAY DEATH AT SAO PAULO FASHION WEEK
BY MADELEINE COFFEY
NEWS
via Yoox Net-A-Porter
via Instagram
A male model has died after collapsing on the runway at Brazil’s Sao Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW). Twenty-six-year-old Tales Soares, known artistically as Tales Cotta, was walking Ocksa’s fashion show when he suddenly stumbled and collapsed midcatwalk. Initially, the audience thought it was part of the show, before emergency workers rushed onto the stage as he began foaming at the mouth. The model was rushed to hospital but was later pronounced dead. The death was confirmed by a statement by SPFW: “We’re sorry for his loss and send our deepest condolences to Tales’ family.”
The model’s agent, Rogério Campaneli, from MGT Base agency, told reporters: “This has been a shocking series of events that we’re trying hard to piece together. But everything happened so suddenly and unexpectedly… It was all so fast: he kissed a friend behind the scenes who was following him, walked out confidently as usual, then suddenly stumbled, lost his footing and fell.” The death sparked controversy on social media, especially because the show continued after the model was removed from the runway by firefighters and taken to the nearby hospital where he passed away – after Soares’ death was confirmed, SPFW’s organisers met with the brands, executives, stylists and
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models that were scheduled to work in the subsequent shows and, together, they decided to go on with the show. A minute of silence was held before each show and models brandished hand-written placards on the catwalk with messages of tribute to the popular model, such as "Luto" (mourning) and "Amor" (love).
The cause of Soares’ death remains unknown, though “doctors suspect that Tales might have had a congenital problem. From videos, they believe he died on the catwalk.”
LONDON RUNWAY
MET GALA RETURNS
Also known as the Met Ball, the Met Gala is an annual fundraising event for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute in New York City. It marks the opening of the Costume Institute's annual fashion exhibit. The key to each year’s theme is understanding the references – if
attendees weren’t already acutely aware of the nature and culture of camp, homework was required. While by nature, it would be un-camp to rigidly define camp, leaving subjectivity to play with, the Oxford English Dictionary defines camp as ‘Ostentatious, exaggerated, affected, theatrical’. The reason camp is so hard to define, however, is because it’s cultural and contextual – to quote Susan Sontag’s now iconic treatise, “Notes on Camp,” camp can be “amoebic and hard to pin down”.
To address a broad misconception, one that was certainly made on the pink carpet at the Gala: camp is not to be conflated with femininity, with being femme, with being gay or being queer – camp can be butch, straight or serious (or all of the above!) The art is not exact, though cultural and historical parameters remain. We won’t name and shame regarding the faux pas, as fashion allows movement, playfulness, and the chance to get it very wrong! In all its glory, this year’s Met Gala was one for the books.
FASHION
The annual Met Gala returned this month with yet another exciting, though notoriously hard-to-pindown, theme, ‘Camp: Notes on Fashion’. In true fashion, some stars triumphed with their attire, while others awkwardly missed the mark.
NEWS BY MADELEINE COFFEY
via Instagram
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LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON PACIFIC FASHION WEEK Designers came together in London to celebrate diverse island styles from the Pacific. They were as follows: Vina Couture from Tonga; PNGian Kala from Papua New Guinea; Fierce Fashion by RL from American Samoa; JW Fiji Collection from Fiji; AKANA from New Zealand; and Proton Creations from the Solomon Islands. Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
LICENSE TO STYLE A personal shopping experience on the high street
Personal shopping (or styling) was, not so long ago, a premium service provided by luxurious department stores to their VIP clients. Now, it’s booming – and mostly free - on the high street. Intended to boost sales and to meet with consumers’ always higher demand for a unique and exclusive client experience, what can we expect from it? Marie Fourmeaux went undercover behind the curtains of the styling studios and found a few tips along the way.
Disguised in my former “I’m-a lawyer-in-Private-Banking” armour, I decided to play the (not so) clueless client and signed up for a wardrobe refresh personal styling service in various highstreet stores. Wherever I went, the usually two-hour long appointment was advertised as the promise of enjoying expert advice to help you create a closet that is unique and tailored to you, while also injecting current trends. With an article to write in mind, my little venture may not have been that innocent, but I nonetheless found myself burning with anticipation and curiosity, impatient to come home with new ideas and, of course, a few clothes! I had also made good resolutions: apart from pledging I wouldn’t dig a bottomless hole into my bank account, I was determined, having trained as a personal stylist, to be as docile as a lamb and to bite my cheeks and tongue to refrain from taking the lead. Hum… hum… So, what’s in a woman’s mind when she books a personal styling session? She’s excited because she wants to spend some quality time with herself. She’s eagerly hoping for a selection of clothes fitting both her silhouette and her personality like a glove. She’s
Image via Shopaholic
expecting expert advice on how to make her body look its best and on how to create new styles. She wants to be understood for who she is and her lifestyle. She wants to leave the session with bags of self-confidence and of clothes she knows she won’t regret. These expectations are universal, whether you’re booking the “experience” in a high-end department store or a high-street shop, whether you pay for it or not. Let’s now discover what goes on in the exclusive privacy of the styling studio. If you will follow me, please… First of all, trust should be built, especially by getting to “know” you and assessing your needs. The prospect of finding yourself in front of a monumental mirror with a total stranger is not always an easy move, even more so as you might bring up some difficulties and body-related complexes. You might give away a part of your intimacy and sensitivity into what believe will be skilled hands. The
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first contact is paramount and I have to say that all the personal stylists who attended me were all extremely nice, smiling and caring. They made me feel at ease, offered me a drink (just water please, if I go for the Prosecco, I’m no longer responsible for my credit card!). Ideally, this first interaction should be deepened into a little chat, sometimes based on the online form filled in during the booking process, to define your tastes, lifestyle, occupation etc. On this particular aspect, one personal stylist, I could tell, had paid great attention to my client profile and I was very impressed that she rephrased the aforementioned online form to perfection. However, on another occasion, who I was, what I liked or what I did was not brought up which is a shame as it helps appraising your actual needs, therefore greatly facilitating the actual “personal” dimension of the service. It also makes you feel listened to. Tip number two (2) skipping number one (1) will make sense later. Yes, you have to read it all! -: with thy personal stylist, thou shalt get acquainted. Then, logically, should come a trickier part of the getting-to-know you: body type. Many women are not aware of what theirs is and how to figure it out. For many of us, this step can be a bit of an ordeal. Let’s face it, rare are those amongst us who are not shy about their silhouette and who are fully at ease with it. Determining your body type is a prerequisite to ensure the clothes are appropriately selected (cuts, fabrics, and even colours). Otherwise, the odds are high that they will not be a fit. And yet, I was surprised to observe that, on some occasions, assessing my body type (and therefore, size) was not a concern, even when my silhouette was hidden, wrapped up in a very loose jumper. On the other hand, a
personal stylist who did actually check it nailed the clothes selection in terms of fit and sizes. Tip number three (3): by thy personal stylist, thy body type shalt be identified. When it comes to the approach for providing the service itself, well, I encountered two radically different methods: either the personal shopper would stay with me in the studio (respectfully drawing the modesty curtain when needed) or I would be left on my own, the stylist either spending all their time in the store or quietly waiting at the reception, remaining at my “disposal” should I need anything. Er… trying clothes on my own? That’s what I do when going regular shopping… Is personal styling simply about sparing me the time to go through the store? Tip number four (4): by thy personal stylist, thou shalt be attended at (mostly) all times.
Image via Devil wears Prada
And what about the relevance of the clothes selection and the actual styling advice? It depends. I noticed that when the stylist got to “know” me properly (both in personality and body type) she had made all the right choices, even suggesting outfits I probably wouldn’t have considered (yep, even a trained personal stylist needs an external eye and to learn from their peers). When they didn’t, I was driven out of my comfort zone but not in the direction I’d hoped for, i.e. mostly unflattering. At one I was taken on a long (remember, it’s two hours) and gruelling trip down Granny Lane and back! The situation I dreaded had occurred: I hated every single piece of clothing! Split between curiosity of how they would fit, a desperate attempt to be open minded (you never know) and the will to be polite, I tried on every single one of them. The fact that the stylist was out of the room pretty much during the entire duration of the session made it easier and less embarrassing. I burst into nervous yet honest giggles more than once when I saw myself in the mirror (I took some souvenir pics which will not be displayed here) and couldn’t repress a more open laugh when told that an obviously far too big shapeless orange top looked really nice.
Image via Pexels
Image via Pexels
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Image vie Freestock
As for the how-to-flatter-mybody-pleeeease- advice, well, it felt like, most times, I had to ask for it if I wanted some. So I asked, using open questions (“But don’t you think the cut of this skirt is faaar too large?”, “Don’t you think I should maybe prioritise high- waist?”). I was often under the impression that I had to “guide” the stylist rather than being guided myself. Tip number five (5): by thy personal stylist, thou shalt be given personal advice; if not, thou shalt ask for it. After two hours, the dreaded moment arrives: what to buy… or not? The great thing is, never, ever, was I put under any pressure to purchase something and the budget I’d specified was respected. I felt entirely free to make my own decisions (it helps when the stylist has been out of the room most of the time) and I was free to disagree (no, really, I do NOT need those frills around my waist and hips, they’re not
flattering at all and yes, the bottom of this jumpsuit is far too baggy!). Tip number six (6): thou shalt be free and thy budget shall be respected. Let’s however bear in mind that personal styling cannot be an absolute science. Indeed, stylists have to make their best with both whatever specificities current trends deem fashionable and the general tailoring and styles of the house. Some trends may not suit some of us and the general tailoring or style of a particular store may not as well. Personally, I know there are shops where I will not find anything that I like or that will fit me because their general tailoring and styles do not match with my silhouette and tastes. On one shopping session, the studio had already been prepared with a lovely selection of outfits. Nothing better to pretend, for a few seconds, that you’re the
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Carrie Bradshaw of the high street! If some of the shapes of the clothes were, in theory, right, they didn’t fit me, simply because the shop’s general tailoring is not appropriate for my silhouette. So, to prevent any disappointment or any dent into your self-confidence, for this is what personal styling is about, I would advise, when possible, turning to a brand the aesthetics of which you relate to and the general tailoring of which has a proven tracked record of fitting you. Even better, try a department store, for the variety of brands and, therefore, styles and tailoring, is wider, maximizing the chances you will come home with clothes you like. Tip number one (1): for personal styling, thy store thou shalt choose accordingly. You can see more from Marie Fourmeaux on Instagram.com by following her instagram.com/marie_fourmeaux_ tips_and_style/
SLIME Photography - Rhiannon D'Averc Assistance - Candice Wu & Marie Fourmeaux Styling: Melina Hadjiargyrou Model: Bate Nate H Illustrations: Joe Bailey Celebrating the release of Bate Nate H's new single Best of Me, we caught up with the Prince himself for an editorial shoot. Follow him and hear his music at instagram.com/batenateh/ Nate wears: Silk handkerchief - Tripster and Smith; Sweater Dirty Velvet; Belt - Gucci; Trousers - Fashion Nova; all others Nate's own
Nate wears: Silk handkerchief - Tripster and Smith; Blue t-shirt - Dirty Velvet; Belt - Gucci; Vest bag Fashion Nova; all others - Nate's own
Nate wears: Sweater - Dirty Velvet; Belt - Gucci; Vest bag, Sunglasses - Fashion Nova; all others - Nate's own
Nate wears: Silk handkerchiefs - Tripster and Smith; Sweater- Dirty Velvet; Trousers, Gold coat, Sunglasses - Fashion Nova; all others - Nate's own
Nate wears: Black puffer jacket - Non Stop Working; Vest bag, Sunglasses - Fashion Nova; all others Nate's own
STAR QUALITY
HOW JEFFREE STAR’S RISE TO FAME REFLECTS THE NEW WORLD OF SOCIAL MEDIA MAKEUP This week, Cara Balen explores how Jeffree Star Cosmetics exemplifies the way that the online beauty community has led to a new generation of influencer makeup brands.
The beauty industry is now, more than ever, intertwined with the online world. Reviewers and lifestyle gurus on Instagram and YouTube play a huge role in the marketing and promotion of everything from clothes to cosmetics, and with each passing day it is harder to know where advertising ends and their opinion starts. Yet, with this merging together of two worlds, it is unsurprising that influencers are now taking on the beauty industry in order to establish their own unique brands. Many social media creators are putting their creative talents towards fabulous new products and glitzy campaigns.Â
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tried and tested methods to climb to the top of the beauty product ladder, but the amount of brands formed and marketed by and for social media users is on the rise. Just by looking at the many popular MUA influencers with their own products, you can see how widereaching this trend has become (think of Manny MUA or Nikkie de Jager, to name a few). Star recognised that makeup promotion is now consumed via tutorials or online campaigns and built his brand from this fairly unique (at the time) angle. The fact that Star’s company is mainly an ecommerce brand, meaning most of his products are bought online, shows how reliant the brand is on the influence of the internet. But so far, it has shown to be a very powerful tool.
All images via instagram_jeffree star
One such influencer is Jeffree Star,the makeup brand mogul who has an estimated net worth of $70 million, according to CelebrityNetWorth.com. His brand, Jeffree Star Cosmetics, is sold all across the globe by popular retailers such as Morphe and Beautylish (and Beauty Bay for British fans). His rise to makeup brand stardom started in November 2014, when his entire stock sold out within a few minutes of his launch. A huge player in the makeup industry now, Star first specialised in liquid lipsticks but has branched out into all sorts of products, with his most recent release of the Magic Star Concealer and Setting Powder marking his first ever makeup base products. He is known for his crazy looks and experimental makeup, most notably his obsession for bubble-gum pink which used to be his go-to hair colour. It is probably this fresh take on fashion that gained Star recognition, injecting the makeup world with a new and innovative style; prompting makeup lovers everywhere to go wild with his weird and wonderful products, which include green and black highlighters and the ‘Alien Palette’, an eyeshadow palette shaped like an alien, which is
literally the size of a human head! The beauty community have really taken to his brand, with Forbes naming him as one of the Top Ten Beauty Influencers of 2017. However, Star wasn’t always known for his makeup. He rose to fame on MySpace in 2006, which he used to launch his lesserknown music career. His brand included a certain amount of shock-factor, with arched pink eyebrows and dark smudged eyeshadow – a perfect mix of grunge and glitter. His distinctive look, which flaunted the gender ‘rules’ about beauty, fed into his unique persona. But although he worked at MAC, it was only later that he began to steer his content towards makeup, with the introduction of his makeup brand and his promotional videos on YouTube. His channel, which now has over 14 million subscribers, quickly expanded to include tutorials, reviews, and lifestyle vlogs. Star is paradigmatic of a shift in the way the makeup industry functions in a world guided by everything Internet. The traditional methods of creating and promoting a makeup business are now not the only way. Of course, many brands have and will continue to use
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Becoming a public figure whilst being the face of a brand comes with some potentially negative consequences, however. Star said in 2017: “I can’t just say everything that I feel because, at the end of the day, I am a product.” He was referring to the many controversies that seem to constantly surround him, including the feuds he has had in the past with other makeup moguls such as Kim Kardashian, Kylie Jenner, and Kat Von D. Not only that, but Star has previously been caught up in some racism scandals, for which he has since apologised. Being so intimately tied up with a brand, so much so that Star legally changed his name from Jeffrey Lynn Steininger to the name now sported on every Star makeup box, has proved that consumers often do view the person behind the product as reflective of their brand. Public outcry against his old racist comments included people boycotting his brand, and saying they will never buy from him again. Similarly, Kim K fans came out in support of the reality TV star when Star criticised her makeup swatches, by saying they would not support his brand. It seems that Star is right to see himself as a kind of product, as what he says and does has the potential to heavily affect his brand. On the flip side, Star fans often support Jeffree Star Cosmetics because of their love for him. He is praised for keeping his makeup
reviews genuine, and has been vocal about refusing to accept money for promoting products. He has also collaborated on a lip topper with Jouer in 2017, with all of the proceeds going to Los Angeles LGBT Centre. And recently, his image has undergone a makeover of its own due to the series, ‘The Secret Life of Jeffree Star,’ released by fellow YouTuber Shane Dawson, which documents the side of Star that has been previously hidden to the public. Star used this as an opportunity to show his vulnerabilities, taking the audience into his confidence about the difficulties in his childhood and his struggles with mental health. He expresses his wish to be authentic, and it is for that reason that many of his fans appear to support him – viewing him as a kind of influencer from the people, for the people (a credit to his marketing prowess, given that he walks around in Gucci tracksuits toting bags worth hundreds of thousands of dollars).
personality to create a product that blurs the line between commodity and celebrity. This new marketing style has exploded in popularity in the last few years, and it will be fascinating to see how the rise of social media will continue to alter the traditions of the makeup industry in the years to come. Star is also noteworthy for his longevity and resistance to controversy – defying those who suggest that social media influencers are just a flash in the pan. You can find out more about Cara’s work by following @BalenCara on twitter.
Love him or hate him, you cannot deny that Jeffree Star exemplifies a new generation of makeup brand, that intertwines social media popularity with influencer
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: DAVE Name: Dave McBrown Age:Â I'm 23 years old Location: I live in South Kensington Agency: TMA How long have you been modelling for? I have been modelling for a very long time actually, I started when I was 15 for an agency in Nantes. I was 15 and they found me literally in the street. Where are you from originally? I'm actually French. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can sing and dance because I've studied both, I don't know if it's unusual! I studied at the Conservatoire, which is actually aÂ
Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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high school of art in France. I've done gymnastics as well! What would surprise people to know about you? People already know a lot about me on social media because I always post about myself anyway! What are your modelling ambitions? I would love to see myself on TV adverts or on billboards, walking around London and seeing myself would really be an achievement for me.
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: CHELSEA Name: Chelsea Goodman Age: 27 Location: Paddington, London Agency: TMA and freelance Where are you from originally? Highworth, Wiltshire How long have you been modelling for? 6 months
What would surprise people to know about you? Once I settle into my own home I would like to be a foster parent. What are your modelling ambitions? To show that every body is a summer body
Do you have an unusual talent or a party trick? Always have a great story to tell after a night out, crazier the better. Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: PRISCILA Name: Priscilia VanB Age: 24 Location: London Agency: Frame Perfect Where are you from originally? Paris - France
What would surprise people to know about you? I'm vegan What are your modelling ambitions? Continue to do what I like and grow as much as I can
How long have you been modelling for? 5 years Do you have an unusual talent or a party trick? I don't think any of my "talent" are unusual
Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: ADELAIDE Name: Adelaide Jones Age: 19 Location: I study in Bristol Agency: TMA Where are you from originally? I'm from Wales, Cardiff area How long have you been modelling for? Since December, so only a few months Do you have an unusual talent or a party trick? I'm actually an elite gymnast!
What would surprise people to know about you? I'm a bit of a singer, only my family know that. I don't do it in public - just not confident with the voice. What are your modelling ambitions? I would like to see myself, maybe in a few years if that's achievable, on a board, walking around London. People who used to know me walking past saying "Oh my god, that's her!". That would be quite cool! And to model for Vogue.
Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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#LONDONRUNWAYSTYLE Our eyes on your socials
FRENCH TOUCH EVENTS This issue we feature interviews with several of the artists set to perform at upcoming French Touch events - first, an introduction from the organiser herself!
French Touch by Marie was officially launched on May 15th with the first night held at Albert's Club Chelsea, with French pianist and Composer Doug Thomas. Since then, I have established a monthly rendez-vous in various private members clubs in London. I work with Library, Morton's, Albert's Beaufort House, Tramp, Century. The idea is to bring people together through the love of music, in a luxury venue, and give light to local French artists. I also include a support act featuring a British and international talent - bringing the best of both France and the UK in a night! My guests are from all nationalities and not only French. This is the interest of those night mingling with music lovers, socialites, and anyone who enjoys exploring new venues and new music over a cocktail! French Touch events are exclusive parties mixing live music, socialising, networking and dating in an informal way. They are intimate due to the venue and the atmosphere I like to bring into them. I always ensure I welcome guest and introduce them to other guests I think they might have in common during the cocktail party. -Marie-Laurence Hagopian, organiser of French Touch
Images by Fil Mazzarino
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INTRODUCING: MORGANE LOLA How would you describe your music to anyone who hasn’t heard it? I would describe my music as cinematic pop with R&B and Eastern influences. Born of French/English parents, I have employed the French language into my writing, and often sing in a mixture of both languages Franglais. I began my debut EP with a producer who allowed me to create the sound world I wanted, a couple of years ago. It was tricky for me to find a reliable producer who had the same level of perfectionism as me,so it’s taken a while to create what I wanted. I had the vision all along, and I am so happy to know I have Kit Rice as my co-producer for this current project. We understand each other, which creates a special dynamic. When did you realise that you wanted to make music? I was about six maybe? That’s when I knew I was a performer/entertainer. I didn’t actively pursue it until I was about fifteen when my mum threatened that she’d stop funding my vocal training, which at the time was tailored towards classical singing. I think that helped me understand the voice more. Now I can play with different styles a lot more freely, than if I’d just solely trained classically or only in a contemporary way – I can play on the best of the worlds I know. I’m a big believer in zero boundaries and having an extended and vivid imagination. In terms of writing, I wrote my first full song at fifteen but musical ideas had come to me since I was very young, about eight I would say. Fifteen was a big year for me, as I came out of
my shell and expressed my unique quirkiness, that I hadn’t outwardly before due to immense shyness. I had to come out of my shell because life got tough, and I had to have my own back and manage things alone a lot of the time. I’d do shows at school, and began showing my artistry live a little more outside of school. That was the year I made some nice musical connections that I intend to keep forever. Then I went to BRIT School for sixth form and I’m now kind of graduating from two unis; long story [laughs]. I originally chose to go in order to have time to fully come into myself and propel my artist profile outwards to the world, and cannot wait to be done with it already. I’m currently writing a promotional plan for my EP, and doing more live stuff so it’s all coming together. I’m coming together as a young woman now. A young artist woman [laughs]. I love the feeling when I detect inner growth. Who or what influences your music the most? It’s tricky. I don’t know if I have specific artists but sounds I like stick in my brain like a sponge. My biggest influences come from my childhood and adolescence. Like as a child, I was a little obsessed with musicals. I played The Hunchback of Notre Dame on repeat for so long, that my mum had to hide the tape [laughs]. I was also massively influenced by hip hop artists such as MC Solaar. He was my main rapper because not only is the music on another level, but his lyrics are so profound and I’m always touched to the core by what he has to say. Lounge music like Hotel Costes and Buddha Bar are also high on
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the influences list, thanks to my dad’s taste whilst en route on car journeys. I cannot forget Indila and Natacha Atlas, mostly for the Eastern Influences in terms of arrangement and vocal style – I’d listen to certain tracks on repeat and imitate their singing, until I was able to use it in my own way. I’m sure I have way way more, but it’s tricky to pinpoint names all the time… ooh, Lana Del Rey and Beyoncé actually. I mean R&B artists such as Beyoncé and Rihanna introduced me to R&B and I also felt like I could identify as a young mixed race girl in a very white dominated environment.
LONDON RUNWAY Can you tell us anything about your experiences at the BRIT School? Oh, I loved it! I was able to really come into myself in that time and push myself as an artist and vocalist – I improved and grew so so much. I came out having won the Accenture prize, where our live performances were judged by members of the music industry. But I still needed to actually get my content together, which I hadn’t fully figured out yet. I wasn’t ready. I see that now. I think the thing that makes BRIT School special is that everyone there has had to earn the right to be there, through their talents. It’s the only performing arts state school, so all walks of life attend and that adds an exciting diversity – people don’t judge you by your background there, it’s about talent and how much you’re working it. That was my personal experience anyway! Talk to us about your gigging history, do you have a favourite venue to play? Hmmm, the National Portrait Gallery was pretty special. I wrote a piece based on a portrait of a Palestinian worker, whose eyes just totally captivated me with a story of pain, resilience and love. Ah, and I mean… the freakin’ O2 where I was very very much in the background for Sam Smith, but I remember my 18-year-old eyes looking out and just knowing that’d be me one day sharing my art. I’m sure there are more… but I’m not yet satisfied anyway! When I’ve done Wembley I’ll sing from the rooftops for you and you’ll know [laughs].
France Connection. I also have a bigger show taking place at the private Century Club in Mayfair on the 23rd of May. These gigs are in preparation for my EP release, I will be sharing the release date soon.
distribution company as my producer got pretty ill, bless him.But now we’re getting back on track – I’m also graduating from university soon so now I can put my full attention on it.
Do you have anything special up your sleeve for these shows?
My end goal is, and has always been to be a world-renowned artist connecting people to love, their own power, which is essentially one’s core. I’ve just turned 22 and suddenly feel ready to face the world and to just bloody get on and do it. And trust me, I have seen and felt it happen for me and the world will catch up sooner or later.
I honestly feel like my stage presence is what works best to captivate the audience. But it’s not just my stage presence, and love of performance, but the energy. People have come up to me in tears because they found it special, and it hit a cord in them. If I can do that, I’m happy. With all of the gigging you’ve been doing recently, have you had the opportunity to work towards releasing new music? I am working towards releasing my music. The first ever publicly released works and concept EP on all platforms, that I will be proud of. I’m a perfectionist so that’s saying something [laughs]. I just feel like I’ve reached a level which speaks to me and a story throughout the EP that I have a concept for. It was just delayed in being mastered and pitched to the
What do you believe makes your live show unique? My presence and energy. There’s a lack of that these days. May is a pretty busy month for you in regards to gigging, you have two shows coming up in London this month, would you care to tell us more about them? Yes I started the month of May with one in Shoreditch through French promotions company,
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What is your end goal?
Finally, what would you like to say to our readers? Hey everyone! I would love it if you could check me out on Instagram @morganelolamusic. There is major strong content in the works and this year is gonna be mega for me in terms of growth without academic distractions; so watch this space! You can also head to my Facebook to my Facebook to get more details on my upcoming show at the Century Club! Images via Morgane Lola
INTRODUCING: COLOURSHOP How did you start Colourshop? Colourshop was born roughly 7 years ago, when my brother and I moved to London from a little town south of Rome. We started playing concerts all around London. We played open mic nights and bars and busking in the streets to pay our bills. After a couple of years my brother moved to Ibiza (lucky him [laughs]) and I kept on performing and writing alone with the same stage name.The music I write derives from my life experiences and are a reflection about the world we live in and the way I interpret it. If we had to put a label on my style it would maybe be acoustic dream pop... but then again I’ve never been very good with labels. Where does the name Colourshop originate from and why did you choose not to perform under your birth name? Well, the impact that moving to London from our little town had on me and my brother was remarkable! The big, cosmopolitan city gave us a lot of inspiration and the songs we wrote reflected the diversity of the new environment we were living in. It’s that diversity that inspired the name Colourshop. Imagine a spice shop, full of colours and flavours: these were our songs or how we imagined them, each one different from the other, each one representing a different colour we wanted to show to the listener.
to the local music school, I think he also wanted me to practice with the proper facilities and not in his car [laughs]. One day he came home with a cheap Hungarian guitar and told me it was mine to play! I started learning classical and modern guitar first, then piano, singing and composing. From there I naturally progressed into writing and recording my own material and started performing in public. I still remember trying to record my favourite songs from the radio to an audio cassette to practice them! That makes me sound ancient [laughs]. Who are your main musical influences? Italian singer-songwriters from the 70’s had a great influence on my style; Lucio Dalla, Francesco De Gregori, Lucio Battisti to name a few. My mum used to wake me up with some incredible music in the mornings like Creedence
Clearwater Revival, Neil Young, The Eagles, Pink Floyd, Otis Redding, Deep Purple and yes, the Guns N’ Roses ballads. So much better than the alarm clock! Later on, I developed my taste for metal followed by jazz and modern singer-songwriters such as Damien Rice, Beck, Fiona Apple, Paolo Nutini, David Gray. and John Mayer above all. You’ve had quite an extensive touring history, touring multiple countries across Europe. How did your experiences differ with each country you played? I started playing in Italy and I have to say: it was fun, but performing in London is on another level! There is a plethora of talented artists to learn and take inspiration from. The highly competitive scene was the key factor that fostered me to learn new guitar and singing techniques.The audience has become very competent, which
When did you come to the realisation that you had a passion for music and what did you do once you did? When I was a little kid, I used to sing out loud cartoon songs in the car. My father spotted some potential in me and signed me up
Images via Colourshop
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LONDON RUNWAY creates the need to create and perform at a very high level in order to gain their attention. I found European gigs easier somehow: being a performing artist from London instilled curiosity, making it easier for the audience to receive my music. It’s remarkable how warm the response of the crowd can be; even in the smallest venues! I remember this time in Moscow when people were asking for autographs and taking photos with me! Along with your impressive touring history, your streaming figures are also noteworthy, gaining over 2 million streams
on Spotify alone. How does it feel to know that your music has been able to reach so many people? Every time I look at the numbers, I feel so blessed! I still cannot believe that people in places as far away as Mexico are listening to my tracks! It is amazing how the digital revolution gives everyone the chance to have their music be heard. As we speak, I have just surpassed three million streams and I can’t wait to share my new music with all my fans! That is incredible; congratulations! So what advice would you give to other musicians aiming to do the same thing? The three main points I would say
are always put your heart into your art, be authentic and true to yourself, and, finally, always be open to constructive criticism, it will only make you better at what you do. What are your plans for the future? I want to invest more time and resources into planning longer tours abroad and concerts, as I believe my music has a better impact on people when performed live rather than in recording. I am also planning on collaborating more with different artists and producers: exchanging ideas can lead to such great and unexpected results! How do the singles compare to the tracks you have previously released? I think that in the digital age, people need to be constantly engaged. That is why I plan to release my upcoming tracks as singles as opposed to an EP or album. A single gives me the chance to develop a story and create different mediums of content; images and videos for example for my audience to engage with, without it relating with the context of an album. My last single Let Me Show You How has been included in numerous playlists and has more than 25k streams on Spotify alone. The video has tolled more than 50k views on YouTube! Have you got any special tricks up your sleeve for your California tour? I am currently preparing a new, improved live set; thanks to my new loop station! I am hoping this will add to the audiences engagement with my set, as it allows me to create much larger and more textured sounds live! Finally – what can our readers hear from you next? My next single Katherine will be released on the 28th of May on all streaming platforms along with a music video shot in Biarritz, France. Stay tuned for that!
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INTRODUCING: OLIVIER VALLIANT
Tell us about how you first started this project, and describe your sound. I started this project in 2015 when I was in a period of deep artistic self discovery. I was grappling with the question of how to project messages and stories more directly. L’Amour was the answer to my questions. My music takes influence from Glam Pop, 70’s Rock, 80’s New Wave and 90’s Alternative Hip-Hop. It has the taste and aesthetic of my high school years and the beginning of my career, 80s, 90s and 2000s without relying on nostalgia. What is your background in music? "I come from elsewhere" as Jacno said, because I have no idea where this passion comes from [laughs]. My parents are not
music lovers and neither is anyone from my family, apart from my great grandfather who was a piano tuner. Yet from the age of four I knew I wanted to become a singer. Then at age six I wanted to drum and age eight I wanted to be a pianist. Eventually, my parents ended up enrolling me in a conservatory and I did 10 years of classical training on the trumpet [laughs]. After I finished my time in the army, which was obligatory in my day, I started playing in different groups. Singing or playing the piano or bass; eventually starting up my own projects.
inspirations.
Who would you cite as your main musical influences?
Along with music, you also have a passion for film and will be releasing a documentary under your project Mathilde. Could you tell us any more about this endeavour?
There are so many musicians that inspire me. But if I had to narrow it down, Alain Bashung, David Bowie, Depeche Mode, Dr. Dre, John Carpenter and Giorgio Moroder would be my top
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I’ve been told that you aim to release an album by the end of 2019, how far into the process of making this record are you? Yes, that’s right. It’s been four years since this project was launched and we’ve released two EPs online since. But personally I think it’s time for me to release my work through physical means - CD and vinyl. I have twenty tracks that are currently in the pre-mixing process and will be until late June. The album should see the light of day by the end of the year; fingers crossed [laughs].
I have been associated with an audiovisual production company
in Reims for two years. The idea came from my colleagues, especially the director I work with - Romeo De Melo Martins. His idea is to create a documentary regarding the creation of this show in a fictional context. This includes characters such as mine, a contemporary singer who will be lost in the work and personality of Jacques Brel. Pursuing so many creative endeavours at one time must be quite stressful. Is there any advice you would like to give to any creatives who may also want to undertake projects similar to yours?
Yes I do. I have fifteen concerts planned in France before the end of 2019. Between Mathilde, Vaillant and of course my show at the Tramp Hotel in London on the 28th of June. I have so much to look forward to. What three words would you use to describe your live show to anyone who hasn’t seen you play before? Welcome, champagne? Enjoy! What do you hope to one day achieve through your music and film projects? I hope to change the world!
I would advise them to focus solely on one project at a time, to avoid going completely insane [laughs]. But in all seriousness, just put a lot of passion, sincerity and patience into your work and you’ll be okay.
Finally - Is there anything you would like to say to our readers? Save the date! The 28th of June 2019 at the Tramp Hotel! It's better in real life, trust me.
Have you got any plans for gigging coming up in the future?
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Catch the artists featured here at the following French Touch by Marie dates: 23rd May at Century, featuring : Colourshop, Chasing Deer, Morgane Lola, Andrea Dee, Croft and Cotes. 28th June at Tramp featuring: Olivier Vaillant, Louise Golbey and Jocee. Search ‘French Touch’ on Eventbrite to register for tickets to any of their upcoming events!
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LONDON RUNWAY
via Fashion Hong Kong
Four designers from Hong Kong showcased their work at this event: Doriskath, HOUSE OF V by Cynthia Mak, LOOM LOOP by Polly Ho, and Yeung Chin. With themes such as twisted selfperception, Damien Hirst's spot paintings, the concrete jungle, and military cinema, the looks presented were as diverse as they were interesting.
FASHION HONG KONG
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House Of V
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Loom Loop
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via Spring London. Edeline Lee presented her latest collection accompanied by oration from prominent women, from Professors and Baronesses to actors and athletes via writers and activists. Lee said: “I design for the ‘Future lady’ – a muse that I invented to represent what dignity, grace, feminity, and power look like on a woman of the contemporary world. Fashion is always aspirational. In todays world, what do we aspire to?”
EDELINE LEE
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A GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED BY PHOTOGRAPHERS via Pexels
If you are someone from outside of the photography world, it can often seem like photographers talk a different language. Whether you want to book a portrait shoot, start learning how to take photographs professionally yourself, or become a model, there are some phrases that you may come across which you may not understand. Rhiannon D’Averc takes us through some of the unique phrases photographers may use, and what they mean.
Analogue: Of or relating to film cameras. Art Director: Someone who stands on set to direct the finished product. They will have an idea of how they want the images to look, and may overrule the photographer and give directions to the models. Book: See port. This is more of an American term. Call Sheet: A document listing the details of a confirmed shoot, e.g. timings, pay, the team members involved, special instructions, and so on. It can be used in some instances as proof of you being a professional when applying to agencies, industry discounts, or guilds. Casting call: A listing which tells you of an upcoming job and the requirements for it. If you apply to a call you may be chosen based on your portfolio, or asked to attend a final casting, which is the modelling version of an audition. Some casting calls will be done in person only, without an online submission.
Creative Director: Someone who stands on set to direct the finished product. See also Art Director. Cuttings: See Tear Sheet. Double or multiple exposure: The art of layering images on top of each other to create a unique look. Exposure: The amount of light allowed to enter the lens while creating an image; or, an image itself, normally used to refer to printed analogue images. Glass: Camera lens Go See/Go and see: Essentially an audition. Normally you would take a portfolio, and may be required to demonstrate your walk if for a catwalk show. Headshot: An image taken of the head, head and neck, or head and shoulders. Used by agencies or casting directors to choose actors and models for projects. Levels: The level of nudity that you would work to. No nudity means
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none whatsoever; implied means that you will be naked, but normally with careful placing of your arms and legs or props so that nothing “important” can be seen; bikini or lingerie means you will shoot in underwear or swimwear; and of course, nude means just that. Always discuss levels before a shoot if you are not sure or have limits. Model Release Form: A legal document stating that you allow the photographs to be taken of you and agreeing as to their usage. Always read this through fully before signing. If you want to share the images after your shoot or use them in your portfolio, you may need to ask permission according to the terms of your release. Moodboard: A document, Pinterest board, or physical collage of inspiration. This is often shared before the shoot to give an idea of what to expect. MUA: Makeup artist. New Face: Someone who is new to modelling, or to an agency, or to a
Images by Fil Mazzarino particular type of modelling. Someone who has just done their first year at London Fashion Week might be a new face, for example, even if they have been doing editorial a bit longer.
shoot. May be done by a retoucher or by the photographer themselves. As used in the phrase “fix it in post”, meaning to edit something later rather than fixing it during the shoot.
On Location: At the place where you are shooting. Usually taken to mean outdoors as opposed to a studio, but it could also denote a hired building which is not usually used for photoshoots. For example, you could be on location at a hotel.
RAW: A type of image produced by a DSLR which contains the most information possible for that camera. Normally converted into another image type such as JPEG, PNG, or TIFF for editing, use, and printing.
Open casting: A casting call for which anyone is welcome to try out. Pay attention to the requirements, however – and expect a lot of competition!
Set: The location of a photoshoot is known as the set. You may be given certain rules for how to behave on set!
Pit: The area at the end of a catwalk where photographers and videographers gather to capture a show. Watch out for the floor – it’s permissible to use tape to mark out an area which is then reserved for that particular photographer, and it is not considered the done thing to take their spot. Polaroids: Previously, a model would literally have Polaroids taken of their headshot and full body at their agency, which could then be shown to prospective bookers. Nowadays it’s more likely to be a digital snapshot, but the principle remains! Port: Portfolio. This is a collection of images used by a model, MUA, photographer, stylist, or etc to showcase their previous work. For professional work, a portfolio must often be seen before the job is offered to you. Post: Post-production, or in other words, editing the images after the
Stock: Stock photography is sold usually to the highest bidder with either exclusive or non-exclusive rights. Make sure that you are being paid upfront or that you receive a share of earnings in this type of shoot, as stock photography is sold for profit. Stylist: Usually wardrobe stylist, someone who looks after the clothes and puts looks together. However, it may in some circumstances refer to a hair stylist, makeup artist, or even someone with creative control over the shoot. Tear Sheet: An image or page taken from a magazine which showcases your published work. From printed publications, where you would previously have had to tear out the page and use it in your portfolio. Test Shoot: A shoot where something is being tested - usually a concept or the model themselves. This is almost always unpaid, though you may receive images for
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your portfolio. Find out the intended usage before you shoot. Tog: Colloquial nickname for a photographer. TFP: Time For Print. Basically means working for images - prints may not be included in modern shoots, digital images are far more common. Typically, a TFP shoot features no pay from or to anyone involved, and any profit should be shared equally.
LONDON RUNWAY
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc
NONAMU at LDC. Porcelain Dancing Spoons Silk Scarf, Light Blue £98.00
H&M Consious Exclusive Set of Rings with Gem Stones £24.99
AEIBE at LDC Anna silk dress - Museum blue £480.00
Artisan & Fox MAJI Earrings £35.00
OVERSEAS TRIP Eugenia Kim at Net-A-Porter Ammanuelle cotton-trimmed hemp sunhat £250
Artisan & Fox ZIBÂ Pendant Necklace £75.00
Seven Feet Apart The Vegan 172 £157.00
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IAMCHEN via Fashion Scout
A shout-out to the designer behind iamchen, who was only able to make it to London this season for the very first time (despite her collections having graced the catwalks previously). Her knitwear techniques brought bright pastels and layered them together, with longline drapes and outerwear silhouettes. Accessories comprised low twisted heels and slingback shoes, angular handbags, gold hoops, branded socks and sliders, and scarves. A flat, long cardigan worn tied around the neck was an interesting style note. Hair was pushed back effortlessly, while classic makeup served to compliment rather than overpower the looks.
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via We Are Village
JAMIE WEI HUANG
The charming theme of school-age students brought a playfulness to the Jamie Wei Huang collection, along with a press release set out like a school test and a special branded pencil handed out in press bags. Deconstruction, the use of raw edges, and patchwork were in full force here. Contrasting fabrics such as denim vs knitwear were employed alongside bright contrasting colours - blues, whites, greens, burgundy, grey, and mustard. Stripes and tartan were in full force in a nod to the season's trends, while scattered letters linked it all back to that school theme. The menswear was louche and laidback, and hair and makeup were flushed and fluffy - like the windswept pupil on the way home from school. Fat chunky heels and some asymmetrical tailoring finished it all off, with the final touch of bags built right into the back of coats - never leave home without the essentials again.
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LIFE IS A PARTY Photography - Alex Rorision Art Direction and Styling: Laetitia Tomasso Wardrobe: Yei Jewellery Makeup Artist: Jurga Sidagyte Production: Beyond Yonder Productions Model: Chloe Jasmine @ FIRST Models / Gorgeous Group
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SLAM DUNK 2019: ARTISTS TO WATCH For any fellow fan of punk, metal, emo or ska music, Slam Dunk is a name that we are all too familiar with. Originally established in 2006, the two-dayer festival has expanded from its humble beginnings and has snowballed into a yearly cornucopia of the most exciting bands the alternative scene has to offer; from the world renowned, genre-defying pioneers to the innovative, groundbreaking newcomers. If you are lucky enough to have snagged yourself a ticket to either Slam Dunk North (Leeds) or South (Hatfield), you are more likely feeling spoilt for choice to what bands to see across the eight stages. Luckily, Neil Dowd has compiled a list of our top picks for the bands you should be seeing!
#1: ALL TIME LOW: I know what you’re thinking, and yes it may seem cheap to have the headliner as our first choice, but much like their slot on the festival, their positioning on this list is nothing if not completely deserved. Having formed in 2003 in their final year of high school, All Time Low have since earned their reputation as one of the most recognisable and longevous acts in the pop-punk genre. Even from their 2005 debut album The Party Scene, the band have consistently gone above and beyond to embellish the ‘pop’ in pop-punk, resulting in instrumentally explosive, yet irresistibly catchy tracks that have become a staple in their genre, whilst also appealing to more pop inclined listeners. Although the days of bushy, straightened emo fringes and onstage dick jokes may be behind them, their set at this year's Slam Dunk will be a treat to behold if their unforgettable 2013 appearance is anything to go by. Along with the abundance of electrifying energy that can be expected from an All Time Low show, the band have
also hinted at honouring the ten year anniversary of their renowned album Nothing Personal. This is not a set you want to miss!
#2: WILLIAM RYAN KEY: It was a sad day for the alternative music scene when after eighteen years as a band, Yellowcard decided to call it a day. Throughout their years of activity, the band defined themselves in the genre through their inclusion of Sean Mackin’s melodicallyanthemic violin playing. Whilst the farewell tour and final, self titled album provided a satisfying conclusion to the bands journey, many fans (myself included) just weren’t ready to let the bands array of anthemic hits go. Fortunately for us, we no longer have to. Ryan Key, the former frontman will be taking to the Marshal Stage with all of the Yellowcard tracks that we know and love, along with some of his new, original music. So if you’re just not ready to say goodbyeto beloved tracks like ‘Ocean Avenue’, ‘Lights and Sound’ and ‘Only One’, you know where to be to catch them in an interesting new context.
#3: WATERPARKS Our third choice takes us back to the main stage, to the trio that continue to redefine the game with their incorporation of ‘trap’ inspired programmed drums and electronicainspired synthesisers to their poprock sound. The boys have been known to satirically refer to themselves as ‘God’s Favourite Pop Band’, but given their overt ability to innovate and break the mould of what is expected of a band in the pop-rock genre; they may be everyone else's. Both managed and produced by the Madden brothers from Good
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Charlotte, Waterparks have managed to release two albums within fourteen months of each other. However, even with such a short space of time between each record, they managed to avoid the dreaded ‘sophomore slump’ and produce a second album that builds upon the song-writing abilities of their debut, whilst also retaining the innovation high energy fun that made the bands sound so infectious to begin with. Despite their fairly recent emergence onto the scene, the band have played at a variety of festivals across the country, even bagging a main stage slot at last years Reading and Leeds Festival - so be sure to check them out before they explode and their ticket prices sky-rocket!
#4: PLAIN WHITE T’S It was nearly impossible to avoid this band between the years of 2007 to 2010. With the success of their certified platinum singles ‘1234’ and ‘Rhythm of Love’ and their most predominantly known, number-one hit ‘Hey There Delilah’, the band dominated radio stations with their emo pop ballads, cementing themselves as a commonly known household name. However, the question for many remains; where are they now? Due to creative differences, the band parted ways with Hollywood Records and resigned with their former label Fearless Records in 2017. Their most recent album Parallel Worlds was released in October of 2018 and showcases a more synth driven taken on the emo pop genre that bears no resemblance to the sound that most people would associate to them. The band are set to headline the Marshall Stage following a set from HelloGoodbye, so if curious to bask in the old and new works of this eclectic band, this is one set I wouldn’t miss.
MALAN BRETON
A civilised cocktail party was the scene of Malan Breton's latest presentation. Gentlemen in suits with bow ties and leather trousers sat opposite ladies in long red gowns and piles of frothy layers. Images by Fil Mazzarino
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NEIGHBOURHOOD VOICES: LOWER MARSH MARKETÂ Candice takes you to the Lower Marsh Markets for this edition of the Neighborhood Voices, where the weekly Friday food stalls and lovely vendors will draw you right in!
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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DIANA THOMAS, IT PROFESSIONAL You know what? The brighter the better! It is because it cheers me up, definitely. Does where you’re from or the Barbadian culture from your parents have an influence on how you dress? No. I think everybody has their own style of fashion, and I like a bit of everything. I have lots of different kinds of wear, you know, like African wear, Japanese wear, Thai wear, Hip hop…It’s just whatever suits me and comfortable. Yeah! There is no straight on. If it’s something I really like, then I’ll buy it and mix and match it, and people do ask me lots of questions. “Where do you get that from?” That’s just my inspiration, like everything.
What is your name, occupation, and where you’re from? Hi. My name is Diana Thomas. My occupation is IT. I’m from South East London. My parents are originally born in Barbados, so that makes me half Barbadian and half English.
That’s lovely. Do you come to Lower Marsh market often? Well, I have to because I work just here. Haha! I come here to get some food and walk around, and it’s a lovely day so I’m just walking around.
What are your Fashion inspirations? What are my fashion inspirations? If I see something that I like and it’s different, that’s my fashion inspiration. I try not to follow the trend, but sometimes, you’ve got no choice. But, yeah, I do like something that’s quite different. Yeah, I can tell that you do! Your coat instantly stood out to me. It’s amazing! Aw, thank you! I love bright colours. I absolutely do love bright colours! You probably might see me next week in something very bright.
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MELANIE FRANCES PHILLIPS, THEATRE MAKER What is your name, occupation, and where you’re from? I’m from London, West London, in Shephard’s Bush. My name is Melanie Frances Phillips, and I am a theatre maker. I make pieces of theatre and performances. What are your fashion inspirations? I’m not necessarily inspired by particular images of fashion, but definitely, my choices are motivated by things that make me feel easy to move in and comfortable. And, I really like wearing bright colours. I really like wearing bright colours because I feel like that really lifts my mood and defines my day when I’m wearing a bit of bright colour. Oh! You’re the second person to have said that today! Haha! That’s great. Does where you’re from have an influence on how you dress, like the weather or the style? Haha, really? I think so. Yeah, I feel like more than anything, I… I wear quite a lot of jewellery, so I wear rings and bangles and earrings. That definitely came from when I was growing up; there were quite a lot of stores and shops where you could get jewellery fairly cheaply. That definitely kind of fed into my style in that way. Do you come to the market often as well? Yeah! I live relatively close, but actually, this is one of the first times that I’ve been able to come. I normally work during the day, so it’s been really nice to come here during the lunchtime and have some food.
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ISABEL ADOMAKOH YOUNG, ACTOR
What is your name, occupation, and where you’re from? Isabel Adomakoh Young: actor from West London, moving to Stratford Upon Avon this week! What are your fashion inspirations? In terms of personal style, I love Frida Kahlo’s use of story/history/folk aesthetics, Iris Apfel’s outlandishness, Yayoi Kusama’s colour, Morticia Addams’ lines, Marlene Dietrich’s androgyny, Prince’s sensuality, Grayson Perry’s gender fuckery. Afropunk events and Beyoncé’s visual album Lemonade always spark my imagination, and Janelle Monae is my all-time queen for showing the 14-year old me how Black women can rock monochrome and tailoring. Does where you come from or your neighborhood or heritage have an influence on how you dress? Yes hugely! London is such a rich stew of cultures. I grew up in a part of town with a large Middle Eastern community, so I took in a sense of colour and variety from places like Shepherd’s Bush Market. The fabric shops there got me excited about putting together costumes and sewing clothing pieces myself. I’m also West African, so things like bright Kente patterns, using natural materials, and Adinkra symbols are in my bones. Do you come to the Lower Marsh Market often? Lower Marsh is one of my favourite places in London. Companies I’m part of, like Shotgun Carousel and Pecs Drag Kings, often run events at The Vaults, and I love Marie’s Thai and Scooter Caffe for food. I’m an actor, so I’m often at the Young Vic or Vaults Festival. My festival, Brainchild, has a residency at Platform Southwark, by Southwark station. I love the independent feel; it’s rare somewhere so central!
KAYLEIGHPAIGE REES INTERVIEW Candice gets in touch with Kayleigh-Paige Rees— actress, producer, and model— to discuss her latest film, Skinny World. Acting as the producer and main character, Mona, she brings a film that breaks the taboo of mental illnesses and eating disorders and opens the discussions for progressive change
Tell us about yourself? So, I live in Somerset. I am a full-time actress, and I model on the side when I'm struggling between castings. I am currently shooting on the new ITV drama Sanditon. Unfortunately, it’s all a little cloak and dagger at the moment, but it's a series is based on Jane Austen's last unfinished novel. I am playing the role of Julia Beaufort. How long have you been modelling and producing? I've been producing for a year, which started with producing a sitcom called Ragtags (going onto Amazon Prime in the Autumn), and then Skinny World is the first short film that I have produced. What got you into modelling? When I wasn't at castings or on set, I found that I got offers to model for different designers and photographers. It was never something I decided to go into, but I really enjoyed going on the shoots. You have also featured in our magazine before as well. What issue and feature was that for? I was the front cover on Issue 29. We shot in Canary Wharf last November, and it was such a good shoot. Met some lovely people and had a great time. How did you go into acting? I went and trained from 16 to 18 in musical theatre, and then after some
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auditioning, I decided that what I really loved was developing characters and the acting side. I then went on to get an agent and started auditioning with my first job being a Samsung advert in 2016.I've always loved it and feel very fortunate to be able to call it my career! Thank you so much for inviting us to attend your film event on the showing of Skinny World. Tell us about the film! What was the reasoning behind the making of it? No worries at all. The event went amazing. We had around 60 people there, and we raised over £400 for BEAT, the eating disorder charity, who worked with us to make the film. As well as screening the film
itself, the writer Agata came to me with the script and explained to me that the script was based on her own experiences with an eating disorder and the challenges. We talked a lot, and she asked if I would be interested in producing the film. I leapt at the opportunity and created a team of cast and crew who had all been through an eating disorder or known someone close to them who had. It meant that the film was that much more personal and allowed a real understanding on set, which brought us all a lot closer together. So, you produced the film and also acted in it? I produced the film, and I also played the lead of Mona in the film.
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Agata was very sweet and insisted I play her younger self. It was a challenging role, and even on the screening, I struggled to watch it. I think it's a little too close to home and brings up a lot of emotions. What are your personal connections to the film and the issue of eating disorders? Was it something you had struggled with? I don't enjoy talking about this often, but yes, it is something that has affected me since a young age and many of my closest friends. The thing is, we all have our own struggles with food because food is such a massive part of our lives. The amount of diets, pills, potions and the pressure created by celebrities
and media means that most people are affected by this in one way or another.
the discussion about eating disorders with this film but also the harmful effect that negative words can have on anybody generally.
What message do you think this film portrays, and who is it aimed at? This film is aimed at everyone. We touch on many different issues in the film, such as the influence of media on young people and the depreciating effect that words can have on anyone but especially young people in their formative years. This film portrays what every person has gone through at some point in their life. 100 people could say something nice, but one person says something bad and that's what you will remember, which can lead to detrimental effects. We want to openÂ
How did the screening go? Was the response positive for the film? The event went amazingly. I was a complete mess throughout the night, but I felt so fortunate to have so many people support the film and our endeavour. The response was better than we could have ever expected. We were unsure if it had the emotional punch we wanted at the end because we were too close to the project, but we were assured by the audience that it has a lasting effect.
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Is there somewhere people could go to watch the film? We are going around film festivals now this summer, and then we are looking at distribution options. Skinny World will be at numerous festivals throughout the UK as well as internationally. I cannot disclose, at this time, what festivals it will be as that is still being decided, but we really hope it will do well. Could you tell us more about BEAT and the issue of eating disorders in the UK? BEAT is the UK’s eating disorder charity. They were kind enough to support us in the making of the film, and they have been really great! Over 1.6 million people suffer from eating disorders, and Anorexia Nervosa has the highest mortality rate of any mental illness. I think we can agree that this is incredibly shocking, and due to the nature of the disorder, being inclined to hide it makes it a lot harder to open the discussion around it.
"OVER 1.6 MILLION PEOPLE SUFFER FROM EATING DISORDERS" How did you get in contact with them for the making of the film? I contacted them directly when I got the film for their opinions on the script and whether they would support us in making the film. They said “yes,” and we went from there! A couple of friends got a massive amount of help when they went to BEAT, and if it is the charities who are the ones helping people, then they are the ones who deserve our support and donations. What are your views on how eating disorders are handled in the UK? Is enough being done? Is it a taboo subject? Not enough is being done. When you go to the doctors and NHS, the help that they give is either medication, which will never actually resolve the issue, or they send you on to places such as BEAT. However, BEAT isn't funded by the NHS. Therefore, our taxes are going to the NHS for them to send us onto a charity. This is why we wanted to raise money for BEAT. It's a taboo subject because it's
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incredibly difficult to accept. However, in recent years, mental illnesses have been more widely discussed and helped, and I hope that this will continue. What can we do personally do to alleviate the issue? Are there any solutions currently that greatly aid in the cause to bring more awareness to eating disorders? Not particularly. I think the media and our entertainment industry play a crucial role, and without that ever being changed, you will always have these continue. There are solutions already happening, but the most important thing is to continue opening up the discussion and helping people wherever we can, such as the charities who are there and those affected by the illnesses.
After this film, what would essentially be “next� for you? Do you have other aspirations you want to pursue besides acting, such as maybe getting into more producing? After we see how Skinny World is doing, we have just signed the rights for a novel called Cafe Tropicana by the author, Belinda Jones, which we aim to start shooting in Costa Rica next year. My best friend and I have opened a production company called Raspberry Films. We currently have 5 projects in production, so it's going to be a busy time! What is one interesting/weird fact about you that would surprise people? I was actually brought up in Portugal, and my first language is Portuguese.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9
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LONDON RUNWAY
YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice brings you these country-matched summer desserts and revolutionary fashion designers from across the globe in this issue of your style horoscope.
Aries March 21 - April 20
British Aries Vivienne Westwood, a perfect representation of the passionate and tenacious sign, is known for bringing modern punk and new wave to the forefront of the fashion scene. A classic British favourite, trifles have that creative freedom that Vivienne brings to her designs.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Innovation and technology with an emphasis on origination are behind every design by Issey Miyake, the Japanese Taurus bringing practical fashion trends. Try this delicious shaved ice Japanese dessert called Kakigori, aesthetically pleasing, delicious, and practical for the Summer heat, like IsseyMiyake’s designs.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Irish designer Orla Kiely brings colours, textures, and patterns showing her Gemini nature of playfulness in her designs.Irish Apple Cake with custard sauce is definitely a classic. Delicious apples and custard... what could go wrong? Nothing!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22
Dominican-American designer, Oscar de la Renta won the Coty award in 1967 and 1968 as well as a plethora of other awards. Cancers should try this traditional Dominican popsicle dessert made of Sweet potato and coconut, Paleta de Batata y Coco.
Leo July 23- August 21
Whimsical American designer Betsey Johnson and her standout fashion perfectly emulate the centre-of-attention Leos. With caramelised bananas anda bit of booze, this American classic Bananas Foster is also a must try.
Virgo August 22- September 23
Karl Lagerfeld: this legendary Virgo’s influence on the fashion scene is undeniable, and his intense drive and dedication for his art are characteristics in all Virgos. This Rote Grütze, or Red Berry “Pudding”, is a stunner during the summertimes in Germany.
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Libra September 24- October 23 Trinidadian Anya Ayoung Chee got her start as a model and Miss Trinidad & Tobago winner but later got into fashion design and started her own brand, Anya de Rouge and Pilar. Her Libra spirit and mixed heritage are shown through her vibrant designs, which won her season 9 of Project Runway. Trinidadian Coconut Sugar Cake: quintessential Summer.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 With Indian heritage, Waris Ahluwalia’s nature of constantly travelling in seek of the perfect textiles embody the classic proactive style of Scorpios. Falooda,made with rose syrup, vermicelli, sweet basil seeds with milk, and ice cream, is a classic Indian dessert enjoyed in the Summertime.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
Gianni Versace... Linking music to the fashion world, this adventurous designer is a stereotypical Sagittarius. Tiramisu gives you the slight caffeine kick needed to get your gears moving for more adventures ahead!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Capricorn December 23- January 20
Diane von Fürstenberg from Belgium invented the wrap dress, an iconic trendof today of which I own 5! This Capricorn was also a former Princess. A powerhouse worker that never stops! Eat this delicious Belgian delicacy, Stofé: a sweet cheesecake styled dessert made with cottage cheese.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 With his fashion houses across the globe, Christian Dior was a true Aquarius: creating the trends instead of following them. These French macarons are a global favourite all-year round with flavours ranging from vanilla to mango passionfruit.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
Pisces designer Fátima Lopes has a welcoming aura and vibe to her personality, and designs with bright smiles and playful designs and colours. Pastéis de Nata, like Portuguese egg tarts, are available everywhere in Portugal for you to grab a bite of.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Clothing images via respective retailers Food images via Pixabay, Wikimedia Commons, Pexels, and Unsplash
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HOUSE iKONS OF
What kind of style do you prefer? There's just about everything you could think of represented in the House of iKons shows. Here we present the second show from this season, following on from our coverage in an earlier issue. The designers pictured are: Aranjuez Natasha Mobey Milinery Aarti Mahtani Taj B Couture Ana De Sa Fitoon Chavez Loch Dress Kitu Kali Get Money by Mimi H Michael Lombard x Java Monster
Photography by Surjit Pardesi
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CASTING REPORT: FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2019 Rhiannon D’Averc reports on the second and final day of casting for the Face of London Runway competition, and introduces your finalists! We saw a very successful second date of castings for the Face of London Runway 2019 – almost running out of time to get through everyone that had arrived to audition for us before the day was up! Together with Maxine Griffiths of The Model Workshops London, and photographers Jose Graca and Fil Mazzarino, we sat down to put the hopefuls through their paces. They walked before us, took part in individual and group photo tests, and spoke to us about their ambitions as well as the preparation they had done before arriving to the casting. Big lesson #1: always do your research before attending a casting
call! Those who had not looked into London Runway or the opportunity at all were singled out easily, and those who had done all of their research – as well as preparing their application photos properly and checking the requirements – already had an advantage before they walked. By the end of the day, we had narrowed the selected down to a group of semi-finalists, including some who had been called back from our first day of casting. This group now nervously awaited their chance to get into the final...
again to six male and six female finalists. Well, seven male – when it came down to it, there were a couple of entrants who tied in our estimations! The finalists, who you will see in images over the next pages (and in no particular order), are:
1. Leianda Burke 2. Shelby Howard 3. Leyre Gomez 4. Ophelie Agboton 5. Ariunzul Oyunbaatar
Their last opportunity to impress us came in the form of a high-stakes photoshoot. Each model was given just 30 seconds to pose in front of the camera, giving us everything they had while their fellow competitors looked on.
6. Ruth Ricardo
From these images, we were able to whittle down the selection once
12. Michael Barnes
Photography throughout by Jose Graca and Fil Mazzarino
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7. Zarishon Rambissoon 8. Johnny Cheung 9. Lorenzo Luciani 10. Soren Paillon 11. Lucas Danton 13. Jordan Walfall
LONDON RUNWAY
The winner will be chosen from a combination of our judging scores – and your votes! Head over to our Facebook page at facebook.com/londonrunwaymag to find images of all of our contestants and vote for them by liking their shots. The final stage will be a photoshoot in which all of the finalists will get the chance to give us the perfect headshot. We’ll share those with you in an upcoming issue, and you can watch out for Instagram stories if you want behind the scenes action!
LONDON RUNWAY
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The male and female winners of the Face of London Runway 2019 will receive: an editorial photoshoot with their face on the cover of London Runway; appearances in the magazine throughout 2019; the chance to walk in a runway show; and more special opportunities. Two male and female runners-up will receive the chance to walk in a runway show
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QA
THE BIG QUESTION
We asked, you answered
If you could only read one book for the rest of your life, what would it be?
&
““I am a bit of a book worm, therefore picking one book is nearly impossible. But I can pick a favourite author: Denise Grover Swank. Her Rose Gardner series is witty, hilarious and keeps you on the edge of your seat”.”
“The Bell Jar by Sylvia Plath.”
-Judith Willis, writer
-Chelsea Goodman, model
“The Bible”
“The Book of Five Rings by Miyamoto Musashi”
-Christa M Jackson, model
-Fil Mazzarino, photographer
“IN SEARCH OF LOST TIME BY M. PROUST.” – Claudia della Frattina, milliner
“I would go with Women Who Run With the Wolves as well! Amazing book!.”
“WOMEN WHO RUN WITH THE WOLVES BY CLARISSA PINKOLA ESTÉS.” - Nikol Konstantinidou, graphic designer
- Marie Fourmeaux, writer
“The Crossing, by Andrew Miller.”
“The Picture of Dorian Grey by Oscar Wilde, I actually own three different versions of it already!” -Rhiannon D’Averc, Chief Editor
“”Reasons to Stay Alive by Matt Haig, that’s my life bible” – Rebecca, acting student and startout model
“THINK AND GROW RICH.” – Teelo Vasiliou, Booking Coordinator at Frame Perfect
- Louisa Kazig, graphic designer
"Heimskringla of Snorri Sturluson"
"Think and Grow Rich by Napoleon Hill. Apparently you discover new bits of info each time you read it and lots of self made millionaires have used it as a bible" – Stephanie Harber, hair stylist
– Sigrun Bjork Olafsdottir, designer
“The Bible” – Veeda Ray, actress
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk Front cover: Olivia Jameson by Rhiannon D'Averc Back cover: Reganalds by Rhiannon D'Averc
