London Runway Issue 21

RRP £9.99

RUNWAY

INTERVIEW WITH BATE NATE H . THE TRUE COST OF YOUR CLOTHES . S/S 19 TREND REPORT

LONDON

PURE LONDON . STYLISTIC MODE . NEOBOTANICSFASHION . LALLAXRR . LINMIR MILLINERY

ISSUE 21 AUGUST 2, 2018

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc Photographer: Ian Clark - shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Features Editor: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Caz McKinnon - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Arts Editor: Eleanor Dyson - arts@londonrunway.co.uk Graphic Design: Peter Bevan - graphics@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: James Morales, Ayah Salami, Olga Crimmins of NeobotanicFashion, Lalla Bronshtein of Lallaxrr, Linda Mirembe of LinmiR Millinery, Robert Bedson, Stephanie Mitchell, Beth Kite, Kristina Guberman, Gemma Rimmington, Jenny White, Fil Mazzarino, and Francesca Panzera Special thanks to Bate Nate H, Alexandra Otieva, Christian Gould of 100 Hail Marys, Sorry I'm Different, Nathalie Leturcq with Vinotinte and the V&A Museum

Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk © 2018, London Runway and contributors Printed by Pixart Printing and distributed in-house by London Runway

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LONDON RUNWAY

IN THIS ISSUE Letter from the Editor

This fortnight has been one of controversy in the fashion world, as it came to public attention that a lot of brands have been disposing of their leftover stock in somewhat unsavoury manners. It’s yet another reminder of the dangers of fast fashion, and how the choice of what we wear can directly affect the planet. Then again, when even big name designer brands are guilty of wanton destruction and waste, who can we turn to?

We’re ever grateful for the growing army of sustainable brands springing up in London, who are certainly showing us the way forward. Rather than buying something made at the detriment of our planet and the people who live on it, it’s reassuring to find something made with love and thought. Recycled materials, items made from sustainable sources, and ethical treatment of workers are big ticks on our list, and I would like to encourage our readers to make the effort to shop a sustainable brand for your next purchase.

This issue, we’ve got two beautiful editorials for you, including the work of two brands in particular: one using only natural materials to make clothing, and one upcycling old clothes to give them a whole new lease of life. Look out for those as you flip through our pages.

We’ve also been to the biggest trade show of the season, Pure London, where we made some new friends and met up with some old ones. Two full catwalk shows walked by our lenses, and we have full coverage of those as well as Stylistic Mode and the Fashion4Africa event.

We hope you enjoy this issue – things are moving fast here at London Runway HQ, and with plenty of announcements to come in the future, we’re also relishing the opportunity to bring you each issue as it comes. What a treat it is to see how much talent there is in our city – and to show it to you all.

Remember, if you think you have something we need to see, or an event we need to go to, our inbox is always open.

Get in touch at info@londonrunway.co.uk.

Enjoy!

There’s a trend report for the seasons ahead that will get you prepared and ready for 2019, as well as giving you some ideas about what to pick up for this LFW if you want to be ahead of the curve. We’ve also spoken to ascendant rapper Bate Nate H about his career, his current projects, and the unique relationship between his music and fashion.

You’ll also find some fascinating views and ideas in our feature articles, with views from across the industry on topics that really matter.

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

CONTENTS Photography Pure London - 7 Carlton Towers - 23 Pure London Spirit - 35 Stylistic Mode - 50 Fashion In Motion: Holly Fulton - 64 Park Life (cover story) - 76 Fashion4Africa - 96

P70 Features Fashion News - 4 Scoop International - 6 Is It Worth It? - 20 The Fashion Identity of Artists And Designers - 33 Trend Report - Womenswear S/S 19 - 48 Bate Nate H - The Prince's Castle: Interview - 70 Pure London Interviews - 92 The Big Question - 101

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via Simon Ebner

FASHION NEWS BURBERRY BURNS MILLIONS OF POUNDS IN EXCESS STOCK

by James Morales Luxury brand Burberry destroyed more than £28 million worth of fashion and cosmetics products last year, including bags, clothes, and perfumes.

even been made for an inquiry by the Environment Agency into potential breaches of UK regulations aimed at minimising waste.

The figures, which made headlines this month, indicate that the value of the label’s waste is almost six times greater than in 2013, with more than £90 million worth of Burberry products being destroyed over the past five years.

In a statement, the company said that “Burberry has careful processes in place to minimise the amount of excess stock we produce… and we continue to seek ways to reduce and revalue our waste.”

The revelation has sparked a conversation about waste in the fashion industry, where the burning of excess stock is common practice. Swiss watchmaker Richemont have also admitted to destroying more than £400 million of designer timepieces over the past two years, while several newspapers have reported that a Swedish power plant burnt unsold H&M stock as fuel.

The official line for such companies is that they destroy unsold products to protect their intellectual property.

Burberry claims that it only destroys items that carry its trademark in an effort to prevent counterfeiters.

Despite this it is widely believed that the principle reason for destroying products is to prevent overstocked items from being sold at a reduced price, which might damage a brand’s exclusive image.

Since the news hit the headlines, Burberry has faced a barrage of criticism from environmentalists. Calls have

Having recently joined the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular initiative, as well as announcing an upcoming collaboration with Vivienne Westwood which will support the rainforest charity Cool Earth, it would appear that Burberry is at least talking up its green credentials.

But none of this has stopped environmentalists from criticising the practice of burning stock. "Burberry shows no respect for their own products and the hard work and natural resources that are used to made them," Green Peace’s Lu Yen Roloff told the BBC. In a time when consumers are increasingly concerned about the environmental impact of the clothes and brands they wear, the uproar over these recent revelations indicates that more than token gestures are needed. Burberry will need to start putting its money where its mouth is and end overproduction if it is to avoid further waste and public furore.

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LONDON RUNWAY

FASHION NEWS UNIVERSITY OF ARTS LONDON ANNOUNCES OUTSTANDING SUCCESS IN ITS SUMMER SHOWS

By Ayah Salami UAL’s 2018 Central Saint Martins BA Fashion Show presented the collections of 41 students from across all five pathways, including Womenswear, Menswear, Knit, Print, and Fashion Design with Marketing. The shows were visited by thousands of members of the public, both from the UK and international visitors.

The UAL Summer Shows were held at the Oval Space in East London, where a physical catwalk was combined with an interactive and immersive virtual exhibition. Also, each show was followed by private/press views that gave a preview to the media and invited guests. UAL is expecting more shows to be launched with dates to be released soon.

The UAL Summer Shows have boosted the confidence of the participating students as the theme of this year’s shows was expressing identity. Graduate Amari Carter said that “I no longer feel shy about sharing my work now I have participated in the show,” and that the process was overwhelming because he was mainly making work that triggers intimacy in the most sensual form.

Another graduate, Carolina Raquel’s, designs were about the relationship between our garments and ourselves, focusing on displacement, wrongness, and memory. She said that her goal was to “explore something personal and translate that into draping, colour, shape, and ultimately sensibility. A reflection about the relationship with our own garments was the core subject of the whole research and design development.”

via UAL

Professor Frances Corner, Head of College, London College of Fashion and Pro-Vice Chancellor of UAL highlighted the fact that the “London College of Fashion BA18 season brought digital to the fore, presenting a multisensory immersive experience with large scale screens and interactive media allowing viewers to experience LCF talent in bold, inspiring and memorable ways.” In addition, for the first time, the

Central Saint Martins Summer Show took place in the fashion studios, which brought the guests right into the centre of Central Saint Martins’ fashion department - and was live streamed for all to enjoy.

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Last week, the some of the world’s biggest names in independent womenswear descended on Chelsea’s Saatchi Gallery for Scoop, one of London’s leading fashion trade shows. Set against the backdrop of some striking works of contemporary art, Scoop is an edit of the most exciting new collections and emerging designers and we couldn’t wait to take a look at what’s coming up in the future of fashion.

From stunning gowns to the finest cashmere, accessories, lingerie and everything in between, this was a comprehensive showcase of some of the most interesting independent brands emerging into the world of fashion. There were collections from top indie brands including Hayley Menzies and Polder and Swildens, as well as up-and-coming global talent such as Frenken, Hobsberg and Violet Thomas.

This season, the show collaborated with iconic brands Liberty London, Lalique and Cacharel to create an exclusive Scoop print and fragrance collection. With all 14 fashion-filled galleries buzzing throughout the three-day event, this was a great way to kick off the new buying season.

Text: Rachel Parker

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PURE LONDON Pure London is always one of the most hotly anticipated trade shows of the year.

The stalls are a welcome chance for press and buyers to meet with designers and brand owners, while the shows are a great experience to watch.

Divided into several themed sections by style, the main stage catwalk displayed looks by a large variety of brands.

Featuring womenswear, menswear, and for the first time - childrenswear, this show gave us a lot of style inspiration for the trends forecast during the WGSN briefing (see our Trend Report, p48.)

The brands on show included selected Romanian designers, graduates, and more from both well-known and indie names.

Photography by Ian Clark

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This page: photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

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IS IT WORTH IT? In this article, Candice explores and discusses the idea of conscious consumerism.

“Is it worth it?” As consumers, we’ve most likely asked ourselves this a thousand times when debating over that cute Summer onepiece swimsuit or that button up maxi skirt. In this uncertain and ever-changing economy with prices and wages dropping up and down, it's understandable to have a scrooge-like mindset, but when looking at the cost of a product, does that price tag really sum up the WHOLE cost of the product? This applies to higher-end pieces, as well. With couture or name brand clothing costing an arm and a leg, the affordability of these highly sought after and often limited items are just out of the common consumers’ reaches, but we still find ourselves splurging or finding imitations to keep up with the trends.

When thinking about the worth of a product, most people tend to think if the item is worth their own money, but rather than only referring to the retail cost of the product, this one phrase, “Is it worth it?” questions the morality and ethics of the product, company, and consumer.

Now, fast fashion doesn’t automatically mean killing the environment and sweatshops left and right, but that is the stereotype and general assumption. The nature of these companies make it hard to assume otherwise, with new collections and bulks of products being churned out every couple of months or even weeks. The production of these clothes are repetitive and fast-paced with cheap labor and materials playing a major role, which often explains the low price tags. With cheap labor, workers often work in unbearable conditions with long hours and little pay. With cheaper materials, the synthetic fibers can make it difficult to repurpose, so if there are leftover fabrics or unprofitable products, they go to waste and are either discarded or burned. The dying processes also uses tons of water.

Because of this, the fashion industry is undoubtedly the second most polluting industry in the world after the oil industry, which speaks volumes.

For those on a budget, which is the majority of consumers in the market, including myself, we’re always looking for the best deal.

Fast and cheap fashion has such a big presence in our society today.

According to Wikipedia, fast fashion “is a contemporary term used by fashion retailers to express that designs move from catwalk quickly to capture current fashion trends.” What this means for us is cheap, accessible, and trendy clothes without the runway price tag or limited availability. Brands, such as H&M, Primark, and Next, are among the more inexpensive brands, whereas ASOS, Topshop, and Zara are the more pricier ones.

Ethical and sustainable clothing, also known as slow fashion, has an ethos more centered on the wellbeing of the Earth and people.

Fair wages, good working conditions, natural process and fabrics, and high-quality and long-lasting products are the focal points. As a living wage employer, Lucy and Yak is just one of the few notable brands that produce responsibly and ethically, but the list can go on and on.

Compared to Primark prices or Forever21 prices, sustainable fashion brands’ price points can seem more expensive. With some clothes costing as little as a sandwich, it can be easy for some to compare sustainable and ethical fashion prices to fast fashion prices and prefer the latter over the former. As an international student in a foreign country, financials are definitely tight. I can’t always splurge on more expensive, higher-quality items, but what I can do is be a more conscious consumer.

Coming from a designer’s perspective, Rebecca Morter, the founder and CEO of Lone Design Club, explained the costs that a designer has to think about when putting that price tag on their products: the real costs of the materials and manufacturing and the availability of the product. Items are generally more expensive as a result of either the hours of manual labor put into producing the product or the materials used. A limited edition silk scarf will have that thousand pound price tag because the silk used is hard to come by and the manufacturing costs are higher as a result of the lower volume production.. Advertising and a brand’s means of selling also factor into the costs, which is why some clothes sell for more depending on the company or collective that they sell under. Brands that sell under LDC are selling directly to the consumers at fair margins, which factors out the high boutique cuts.

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Ethical and sustainable fashion is becoming more and more accessible, as well. With it being 2018, the year of awareness and movements, fast fashion retailers are also moving forward with more ethical and environmentally responsible production practices. H&M’s Conscious Exclusive line features materials, such as recycled silver and ECONYL®, a 100% regenerated fibre from fishnets and other nylon waste. With its launch on the 19th of April this year, this is the seventh collection in this line, and they have committed to only using 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2020 and 100% sustainable materials in all of their products by 2030.

Launched in 2010 by Ellen MacArthur, the British charity, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, aims to transition the fashion industry into a more circular economy, which means reducing pollution and waste by recycling, upcycling, reusing, and redesigning products so that they’re more repurposeful or compostable. H&M is a core global partner, as well as other brands, such as Nike.

As another core partner of the foundation, Stella McCartney has been a longtime advocate for sustainable and ethical fashion since even before the opening of her fashion house in 2001. Although the price ranges for her products are not the most financially feasible for the everyday consumer, it's fairly reasonable considering the techniques and materials used. Cruelty-free, ethical, and long-lasting are aspects of her pieces. During the 2018 Copenhagen Fashion Summit in May, Stella McCartney had said, “We arrived at a place where doing things in a conventional way is outdated and unsustainable. For instance, using animals is, in my opinion, not

relevant or fashionable anymore.”

At last year’s summit, ASOS also promised to be more eco-friendly by introducing a sustainable sourcing programme aimed at educating their designers on circular design techniques practices. Their recent ban on cashmere, silk, feathers, and down by the end of January 2019 shows their commitment. They’ve also been in collaboration with SOKO, which is a clothing workshop in Kenya providing fair employment and training for the country’s poorest communities, resulting in the Made in Kenya brand. This is the flagship brand for their Eco Edit platform for shopping for sustainable fashion from multiple brands.

They’re progressing in the right direction with these steps, not to mention their recent praise-worthy steps towards inclusivity, which is just the icing on the cake for this brand. You can see the more extensive list of their commitments on the picture above.

“IT’S OUR MISSION TO KEEP FASHION MOVING FORWARD IN THE MOST SUSTAINABLE WAY, ENSURING THAT CUSTOMERS NEVER HAVE TO COMPROMISE ON CHOICE.” Tara Luckman Sustainable Fashion and Fabric Manager, ASOS

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The fourth pillar that ASOS had on consumer engagement on sustainability is what stuck out and resonated with me the most. Not only are they educating their workers but they’re also educating their consumers, which is vital if we want to rework the fashion industry and knock it down from being the second most polluting industry in the world.

Supply and demand are what keeps unsustainable and sustainable brands running. This mutualistic relationship powers our economy. At the end of the day, businesses are trying to make a profit, so if a product is made unsustainably but consumers are still purchasing it and helping the company profit, it will continually be produced until the demand goes down. This applies to ethically and sustainably made products as well.

This is such an important concept that a lot of consumers need to be educated on because not many people understand that we’re are also a part of the problem. If we were to consciously make better choices when making purchases, that would be such an impactful, positive step forward towards a better industry. One can say that they’re against sweatshops or harmful production techniques, but when they make a purchase from a company that utilizes these, they are powering and continuing this vicious cycle of supply and demand.

Is having more items in your wardrobe worth the increased workload for a sweatshop worker? Is saving a few pounds worth the deterioration of our planet?

Ethical and sustainable fashion being more expensive is a big misconception. As mentioned before, it isn’t just about the price shown on the tag. The manual labor and human thought has to be factored in the costs, as well. If compared to fast fashion prices, it can seem expensive, but, as cheesy as it may sound, our Earth is priceless. It's the only planet that we have right now, so we should do our best to protect it. This doesn’t have to mean buying your own shovel and planting trees everywhere on the daily, but just being more selective, mindful, and responsible of your spending on clothing items can make a HUGE difference.

“OVERALL, I’M FOR FAIR PAY TO ALL INVOLVED AND YES THAT MIGHT MEAN YOU PAY A FEW HUNDRED POUNDS FOR AN ITEM BUT AT THE END OF THE DAY IF YOU CHOOSE WELL AND BUY FEW GOOD ITEMS YOUR WARDROBE WILL REWARD! YOU WILL HAVE EVERLASTING CLOTHING ALL ETHICALLY SOURCED AND MANUFACTURED FAIRLY.” Rebecca Morter CEO and Founder of Lone Design Club Its very easy to get into the victim mentality of “I can’t afford this, so I have no choice but to buy that.” or “I need to follow this trend, so I have to buy this.” When you’re shopping at companies that don’t have fair wages, good working conditions, or are big contributors to polluting the Earth, it is a choice that's being made.

This isn’t meant to be a guilt-trip but an encouragement for empowerment. We should always have a voice and a choice when making decisions that will directly affect us. That is our right as consumers and as humans, so the next time you go shopping, ask yourself, “Is it worth it?” If making our Earth better means having 3-5 pairs of well-made shoes instead of 20 that will only last a year or two, I, for one, am willing to make that choice.

“I THINK THE POINT TO REMEMBER IS THAT WE SHOULDN’T BE IN THIS MENTALITY OF FAST CHEAP FASHION. WE SHOULD BUY LESS AND CHOOSE WELL AS VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SAYS, THEREFORE BUYING ITEMS THAT ARE MORE EXPENSIVE OR FAIRLY PRICED BUT BUYING FEWER OF THEM AND APPROACHING OUR WARDROBES SUSTAINABLY AND TO LAST.” Rebecca Morter CEO and Founder of Lone Design Club You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Sources via Lone Design Club, ASOS, H&M, Stella McCartney and Lucy and Yak

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CARLTON TOWERS

Photography - Robert Bedson MUA - Gemma Rimmington Model - Kristina Guberman Designer - Jenny White

Wearing something a little different that no one else has, but doesn't hang in your wardrobe for months or years, is just one of the concepts behind Jenny’s designs. All her pieces are in quality fabrics, satin, chiffon, silk chiffon, silk satin, and poplin.

All pieces are one-offs.

After a break, Jenny is back designing and had the opportunity to show her collection during London Fashion Week AW19 and will be back showing her new collection during LFW SS19.

Kristina wears: This page Hollywood dress - £350.00, Jenny White Previous page - Ascot dress £200.00

Kristina wears: Eloise dress - £120.00, Jenny White

Kristina wears: Eloise dress ÂŁ120.00, Jenny White

Kristina wears: Hollywood dress - ÂŁ350.00, Jenny White

Kristina wears: Classic suit £180.00, Jenny White

Kristina wears: Ascot £200.00, Jenny White

Kristina wears: Ascot - £200.00, Jenny White

Kristina wears: Madrid Shirt £100.00, and Madrid Pants £120, both Jenny White

THE FASHION IDENTITY OF ARTISTS AND DESIGNERS. Ellie Dyson discusses Grayson Perry and the link between fashion and identity with designers and artists…

Grayson Perry is a British artist known for his tapestries and ceramic vases. These perceptually traditional mediums contrast with his contemporary concepts which are portrayed within the art, and his expressive style when cross-dressing. Perry first borrowed a dress from his sister when he was ten years old, at a time when he was beginning to explore his sexuality. When his stepsister read his diary, he was forced to tell his family, receiving a negative response.

At a time when he needed the most support, he had to instead promise to stop, and so was left with many unanswered questions until he went to university and was able to express himself. He knew that he wasn’t gay, and he didn’t want to be a woman - the experience itself of wearing women’s clothes was a psycho-sexual one. As soon as he started to pass as a woman on the street without getting any second glances, he began to dress more garishly. He realised his aim was not to be perceived as a woman, but to instead be just a man in a dress. In his channel 4 documentary, ‘Born Risky’, he said “For me, it’s more important that I look interesting rather than feminine”. It was at that time when he developed his alter-ego, ‘Claire’, inspired by Little Bo Peep. Claire gives Perry the chance to explore different styles of femininity. Perry’s wardrobe seems to be split in half, with one part showcasing bright, over the top costumestyle dresses (Grayson often collaborates with fashion and textiles students from CSM, who create dresses for the artist), and the other half comprising of t-shirts and trousers held up by braces. You could say that this split-style fashion reflects his identity in his own work, which often humorously explores contemporary societal issues by using traditional ceramic craft methods.

Andy Warhol, known for his pop art, worked with themes such as iconography and commercialism. His well-known works featuring brand names and Hollywood stars desensitize the audience to the sensationalism of the subject by repeating prints of the image.

Warhol’s own style of dress reflected this, with black turtlenecks or striped t-shirts and nondescript suits being his armour of choice. His eccentric hairstyle was carefully planned so he himself could be considered an icon, and his Levi 501 jeans were an ode to the commercialism so regularly appearing in his art.

Occasionally fashion identity can be demonstrated in the opposite way. Some creatives are more conservative dressers who wear a ‘uniform’. Artists like Jeff Koons and Damien Hirst are more commercially active, so they appear to dress in a way that could be more accepted by society and investors – Jeff Koons often being shown in a white shirt and dark suit, and Hirst in black suits, leather jackets or flannel shirts layered over tees.

So where else does identity driven dressing appear in the creative industry?

At age 18, Frida Kahlo was involved in a bus accident leaving her impaled on a railing. She spent the next months in a full body cast and went on to have almost 40 operations. The resulting trauma, added to the complications from the Polio she had as a child, was often portrayed in her work, but they also contributed to her fashion identity.

Her Mexican folk-inspired corset style tops and blouses and long embroidered skirts were used as instruments to hide her numerous surgical scars. Seemingly delicate corsets were in fact reinforced with steel, and one of her highly decorated boots was a prosthetic for the leg she lost due to gangrene. She challenged society’s definition of femininity by dressing herself in an armour of statement jewellery pieces, bright lipstick and flowers woven into her hair, which complimented her ‘out of the norm’ eyebrows. Her accessories were said to be a way for her to uphold her ‘national identity’ (Tate).

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Karl Lagerfeld mostly appears dressed in a uniform of a white shirt, black blazer and trousers, topped off with fingerless gloves. His shirts usually have an exaggerated stiff collar, accompanied with a decorative statement tie in black or white. This style makes Lagerfeld instantly recognisable and creates a consistency in the midst of fashion’s fast-moving pace.

There are many other creatives, designers especially, who don similar clothes on a regular basis – Carolina Herrera in white shirts and A-line skirts, Michael Kors in black blazers, jeans and t-shirts, Yohji Yamamoto in all black layers, and Lanvin’s former creative director Alber Elbaz in his signature suit and cheeky bow tie – the list goes on and on.

So, what is the advantage of wearing a similar outfit every day?

Former President Barack Obama might have the answer, revealing his reason for doing so as “trying to pare down decisions”, he told Vanity Fair in 2012. “I don’t want to make decisions about what I’m eating or wearing. Because I have too many other decisions to make. You need to focus your decision-making energy. You need to routinize yourself. You can’t be going through the day distracted by trivia.”

For a designer or artist, their personal style is an extension of their brand. For some, that means dressing in a way that reflects their work, but it might also mean they choose to wear the same thing every day to allow all their creativity to instead be channelled into their work.

Perhaps, as creatives already have an agency which allows selfexpression, they don't feel the need to express themselves through their own wardrobe.

Is there a difference between how artists and designers dress themselves?

Perhaps artists see and use clothes as an opportunity for performance, whereas designers don’t see the clothes on themselves as a priority because they want to drive all the media’s attention to their collection.

For an artist, consumers are interested in the personality of the individual and who they are as a brand, so it benefits the artist to have the attention fixed on who they are as a person. Owning a unique style can enable this.

By purchasing art, the consumer buys into the artist’s personality, something external to themselves that they are potentially bringing into their home. The artist must persuade them that they are worth investing in. Clothes are the opposite, the consumer thinks about them with themselves in mind, and what the garment will look like on them. The designer is essentially providing a service which ends as soon as the clothes are put on the consumer’s body. It makes sense then, that many designers are seen sporting ‘basic’ garments such as a suit or an all-black outfit as it, just like Karl Lagerfeld above, creates a consistency which reassures the customer that the designer in question has a strong, authentic identity which promises potential for collections to come. Although Jeff Koons and Damien Hirst are artists, they seem to dress in the same template as designers. Being more commercial, they also need to dress in a neutral style which doesn’t detract any attention from their work and is seen as appropriate by potential consumers and investors.

Grayson Perry’s open nature towards being a transvestite allows him to be seen as authentic amongst his peers and the general public, as well as creating another dimension and context to his work. From his exploration into his own identity from a young age, he has developed an interest in the many characteristics society can offer, and his work stems from this, having created documentaries and exhibitions detailing class, sexuality and prejudice which would have never come to fruition had he not been true to himself. It makes an interesting contrast to the designers who keep their own personal dress code neutral so that the focus is on their latest collections, and their clothes, not personality, is what is for sale.

You can see more of Ellie’s work on Instagram by following @elliejdyson or checking out her website at https://bit.ly/2MNxE8T Images via: Jason Tester Guerrilla Futures; Andy Hay; Christopher William Adach; Wikicommons; Pixabay

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On the Spirit stage at Pure London, smaller brands and those with a more youth-oriented market get to take the spotlight.

The catwalk is fast-paced and vibrant, with some brands showcasing only a few looks and others having more to display. The brands you'll see in this gallery include: Glamorous Oto Love Shirts Tally Weijl Mr Musk The Pretty Dress Company Monkeegenes Organic Jolie Moi A-Wearness Nasrin Sorry I'm Different Holidolls Amy Lynn London F&P Lace & Beads Wal-G Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

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TREND REPORT: WOMENSWEAR S/S 19 Rhiannon D’Averc gives you the lowdown on what to expect over the coming season, and into 2019. With input from the WGSN’s briefing and their statistics on sales, stock, and designs, presented by Kirsty Sears and Anna Ross, Senior and Associate Womenswear Editors respectively.

One of the key messages for the upcoming season is that accessories are seeing a bit of a slump, while footwear is on a new high. This means picking out statement shoes and clothing that give your look as much punch as it needs, rather than going overboard.

Let’s take a dive into some of the big trends you’ll want to follow as the season evolves.

Soft Power

Modern Prairie

This look is all about tailoring, but taking it to more of a softer dimension. Lounge silhouettes and pastel colours can help to define this wintry look. Go for power dressing, but then pare it back with trainers and a t-shirt. Taking inspiration from the 80s and 90s, this style can tie into some of the other big trends for this season.

The boho favourite, prairie, has been given an update for this season.

Think clean Western looks that are more tailored, with scarf print mix dresses paired with trainers to pull the look back. This is all about bringing that prairie girl back into the city. The pieced midi is a key trend, with panel prints combined with sheer, lace, or high shine fabrics.

Subtle Imperfections

1980s Nostalgia

Why does everything have to be so perfect? An asymmetric zip, a knotted hem, a creatively draped front: these are all elements to look out for. They give the subtle impression that something might slightly be off, but in a very deliberate and creative way. Draping is up more than 149% in the WGSN figures, while knotting is up 77% and asymmetry is up 33%. These are big looks to watch out for. Scarf dresses are great for showcasing an uneven hem. Twisted tops are also big: tight-fitted but knotted or wrapped at the waist, worn with either wide leg trousers or cropped with a slim leg.

Yes, it’s been here for a few seasons, and it doesn’t appear to be going anywhere. Ruching is now the big trend to look out for, as well as leg of mutton sleeves making a big comeback. Also having a new heyday is the resort shirt, which you are going to be seeing versions of everywhere. Acid-washed denim is the colour for your jeans. This season is all about putting the 80s into the details, rather than necessarily the big shapes it has been previously. A key piece includes the blouse with leg of mutton or puff sleeves, a nipped in waist, and slight shoulder pads, worn with jeans. Thrift your shirts with tropical prints and vintage looks to get that resort feel.

Reclaiming Sexiness There was something utilitarian about recent seasons, something less sensual, less sexual. Now we’re ready to reclaim sexiness with a lot of sheer dresses, slit-bottom trousers and skirts, and cut-out dresses. These sensual looks can really turn up the heat. Think of asymmetric cut-outs in unusual places, like at the waist, and sheer dusters worn over short dresses. The wrap maxi is also great for boudoir style, with ruffles and layers, and it’s been big in resort shows. You could also wear the bustier top with a square or sweetheart neckline, with micro button details and puff sleeves.

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2000s Influences Get ready for some serious nostalgia, millennials – your decade is finally coming back around. Think cargo pants and slip dresses in particular, and pull out those tribal prints and dragon tattoo-esque mesh shirts. It’s the most horrifying style of the decade, yet we kind of love it.

Linen Lounge Here’s an upscale update for linen textures. Think basic separates such as roomy trousers paired with knotted shirts. This is part of a movement towards sustainability, also, with linen a good canvas to begin with. Wide leg trousers are certainly the way forward this season, and you can add deep pleats for a new take.

Contemporary Traveller

Colours

Boho strikes again with this look, which is all about giving the style another level of sophistication. Think rust colours and deep maroons instead of ditsy florals, even if some of the shapes might remain the same. The double hem jean is an interesting addition which could make or break a look.

So, what colours will we all be wearing? Yellows have doubled in the past season, so look out for not only Gen Z Yellow but also sherbert yellow, perfect with tailoring. Soft blocks are in, think pale pastels with electric tone brights. Pink and lilac are also having a big moment.

Downtown Modesty

Rust and earth tones fit with bohemian styles, combined with deep maroons at the same time. Wear them all together for a complete look. Primary red is also here in a big way and can be worn head to toe with accents of pink or white.

Modern fashion is experiencing a huge surge in popularity, and that’s no doubt the force behind this new trend. It’s all about long dresses with sleeves and soft drapes, a sense of female empowerment that shows that covering up can be sexy too. Add on the prairie take for a double whammy of on-trend looks. The term ‘modest fashion’ itself is up 500% year on year in Pinterest searches, so use that as your inspiration.

Pink lilac is the new street style colour you will be obsessing over, worn on denim and sweaters. Fruity oranges are perfect for activewear and streetwear, and often both at once. Soft peppermint is the colour for the sophisticated dresser, and it will be evolving into A/W 19/20 as neo mint.

As for your prints, look to outsized blooms in psychedelic colours worn head to toe, or opt for pastel checks and stripes with pops of black. Art camo is your thinking woman’s print, with abstract paintings and colours – and even a little bit of tie dye.

Scarf prints are going to be opulent, nautical, and paisley all at once, all clashing, and worn all over. Pop checks are vibrant colours worn on standard tartan or checks. Then there’s toile de juoy, pastels worn on modern designs, cotton, denim, and statement dresses.

Textures As for your textures, how will it feel to dress in S/S 19? You’ll run your hands over languid silks in optical colours on slip dresses, and then feel the rough texture of humble linen in natural and undyed tones. Natural skins like snakeskin will be in – but only if they’re faux.

In terms of details, think lots of micro buttons everywhere you look, smocking and ruching across tops and blouses, and crossover fronts such as halter necks and side ties. Utility details like belts, draw cords, and hardware will be taking over festival looks.

Images via PopCaven, Faithfull The Brand, Batsheva and Rhiannon D'Averc

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STYLISTIC MODE The Stylistic Mode Fashion Runway Show in aid of Breast Cancer Care aimed to raise health awareness as well as share some of fashions hottest new creations. The evening opened with champagne on arrival followed by a showcase of womenswear and menswear designers, with garments from high fashion couture to vintage retro and bespoke pieces all featured on the catwalk.

We also enjoyed live performances from London based singersongwriters Bart and Bebels to accompany the runway show.

The designers, in order, are as follow: Menswear FAR MORE ADVANCED by Felix DANEYTO by Hector Womenswear DRE DESIGNS MELINA HOPE LOUISA MOODY PATRICIA ENGELE MUA: @beautybyalisoneiffe & @makeupby.hb

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FASHION IN MOTION: HOLLY FULTON Fashion is an artwork best appreciated in motion. From the flow of fabrics to the sway of silhouettes, there’s a reason why designers exhibit their work on living, breathing models rather than behind glass display cases: clothes are made to move.

With this idea in mind, London’s V&A created their Fashion In Motion exhibitions, a series of live catwalk shows exploring the work of different designers across the world. The latest designer to feature was Holly Fulton, the Scottish-born Creative Director and Designer whose eponymous label has collected multiple industry accolades since its conception in 2009. Four free shows presented a retrospective look at Fulton’s favourite and most defining pieces, timed to begin a series of celebrations marking the ten-year anniversary of her label.

Holly Fulton’s work takes a humorous angle on modern, relaxed luxury through her use of geometric embellishment and unusual fabrications. Her aesthetic is defined by her use of art deco and pop culture references, as well as a heightened sense of colour and a graphic eye.

Holly Fulton’s Fashion In Motion exhibition showcased some of the designer’s signature styles, from bold and bright colours to clashing patterns, sequin embellishment, exaggerated silhouettes and oversized jewellery. There were several of her iconic wool dresses in tangerine, yellow, cool blue and black, each tiled over in geometric patterns using laser-cut perspex mosaics.

The show also featured classic Holly Fulton accessories such as the perspex plaque necklaces and 'treasure chest' bag, which are reimagined each and every season within her runway shows.

Following in the footsteps of previous Fashion In Motion shows from prominent designers including Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jenny Packham, Missoni and Vivienne Westwood, this was a fascinating exploration of a decade’s work from an artist at the top of her game.

Images via the V&A Museum

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BATE NATE H

THE PRINCE'S CASTLE: INTERVIEW

London born music artist and fashion influencer Bate Nate H, or, ‘Prince Nate,’ has been making strides in the London underground music scene for the past four years.

He has worked with brands like ASOS and Fire Chulo and has 31K followers on Instagram. He is an artist who has forged a fruitful, unique career in fashion and in music despite a difficult beginning to life. Growing up on Cathall Council Estate in Leytonstone in an abusive household led him into dark periods when he describes ‘battling’ with his heart and soul. By the time he was eighteen, he had been to jail four times and was well known by the local police for drug dealing and robbery.

However after the birth of his daughter, Bate Nate H made a conscious decision to change his life. In 2016 a series of six mix tapes received 100,000 free downloads online and in May 2017 he was signed to New York record label Bentley Records. He hasn’t stopped since.

Despite his success, what stands about The Prince is how incredibly humble and unassuming he is. When we meet, he is simultaneously soft spoken and frank about where he began and where he’s going.

He wears a Swarovski encrusted watch, and a bespoke tanzanite pendant, also from SWAROVSKI. He pairs it with Zara jeans, bright red leggings, KWD socks and a customised, navy military Jacket inspired by Prince Harry’s – he declines to name the designer.

As he sips a cocktail and smokes an Amber leaf roll up, we speak about his past, his passions and the future.

How long have you been making music?

I've been reading and writing music since the age of five. My dad was a musician - we were pretty much like the Jacksons growing up. but career wise I've been going hard for the last three and a half years, four years.

When you say Jackson 5, do you mean everyone in your family does music?

They're all musically orientated so if I was to go to my house for like a family dinner or something, there'd be music playing.

It's that vibe.

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Who are some of your favourite designers?

One of my favourite designers is Fendi. I love the 3-D collection they did. You know the baubles you can get from Primark? I started putting them on my jeans, on my shoes - and I was doing this before I saw the Fendi collection but then I saw the collection and they've got all these 3-D vibes, Velcro popping outSubversive design.

Yeah, it looks sick and it looks customised.

Why do you think fashion is fun?

Anything where you can express your individuality is fun.

In some ways you can express yourself more in fashion than anything.

Yeah, yeah. Fashion and art.

Did you always know you were creative?

Yeah. Even when I was younger I had a different eye for things, unique things. As a child I dressed up like Prince. He was a good influence on me.

What was it about Prince?

It was always Michael Jackson and Prince for me, but Prince just took the eye because of how eclectic he was. The fact that he could come on stage and do acapella with a guitar that's talent. Playing an instrument and singing in key and tone. He's a legend, man.

That also make sense in terms of how you merge fashion with music.

Yeah of course, there you go. Fashion's a big thing for me because it's another source of expression.

Image seems to be really essential to your music.

For me image is important because I want people to see the whole of me. The music can show a side, people can connect to the music or not, just like people connect to blogs or not but for me the way I dress is how I express myself. I want people who don’t even care about my music to be like wow - you might be interested in me just because you've seen the way I dress. And that might make you come and listen to the music. And vice versa, so I'm trying to put them both in tow.

Your music is really distinctive. It doesn't sound like a lot of hip hop, especially hip hop of recent years. I'm curious as to what your creative process is when it comes to standing out from the crowd.

I just feel like the most you can do is be yourself, to bring out the essence of you.

That's what music's about. I think that's lost these days. There's a lot of people who sound the same. Same tone, same words. With me, I've read the dictionary. I've had times where I've had to sit back with nothing else to do but read. I've looked up words and thought okay let me do something in another way with it. Something different, something outside the box. And that's what it's about.

In your opinion, why is fashion important?

Fashion's important because it's a gateway into an artist's mind. I think it’s amazing that two people might not know each other from nowhere, that you can connect just from the way you are, the way you look. You can get a sense of that person, what they're about, just by that. And I think that's important. The fashion world right now, for me, is changing in the sense that you don't have to be an ultra skinny person doing runway. Things are different, and that's a good thing, we should embrace it. For me as well, as a young black male, I've found that the industry is more accepting of me than it would have been ten years ago. With me I don't really care if it's a designer name or not. If it looks good and it's doing something for me then I don't care.

It's refreshing to hear that.

Yeah you know what I mean? Because a lot of rappers at fashion week for instance - you'll see hella rappers coming through wearing this and that, and you're not going to see me dressed head to toe in designers just because Supreme and Balenciaga made it. Like I'll go Zara, I'll go H&M, and no one will know where I got it! That's the beauty of it.

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Is pushing boundaries important to you?

Yeah, of course. Calvin Klein - the genderless project they did, that was sick for me because I always used to find myself going through shops - and you might see a top, a female top and think 'that looks so feminine. But if you could drop it then you could drop it hard.'

Calvin Klein, they've gone past that boundary with unisex clothes. It's like if you like what you like, then you like what you see and you get it. Like feminism, if you're comfortable in your own skin, and you're man enough to pull it off then you'll pull it off.

What are your thoughts on feminism?

I'd say I'm a feminist. I feel like if you're a real feminist, male or female, go 100, go the 100 mile. If you're 100% feminist then you work as hard as the male and the male works as hard as you so it's equal, there's an equal line. Don't be a victim. If you're a feminist, be 100% feminist.

Who is it that inspires you in music?

People like Prince, Michael Jackson, Tupac – there’s people who inspire me like YSL, Little Duke, Young Thug, people I know in the music industry. There’s not a UK artist that inspires me but Nasty Jack stood out to me as a kid.

American is more what I grew up listening to.

There’s two people who inspire me, one for their music one is their lifestyle - outside of Hip Hop, Pink Floyd because of the riffs - if you listen to my music it’s more melodic, more riffs, I use my voice as an instrument and I think I got that from them. Lifestyle, because I feel like I’m a troubled man, a troubled soul - I can relate to people like Kurt Cobain , that’s someone I

watch, I studied - I have compassion for him.

Do you want to expand on that? What do you mean by troubled soul?

Well for me, it’s the things I’ve been through.

Sometimes I find myself battling, battling with my heart and my soul. A troubled man for me is someone who’s been through so much shit, had so much let downs. I don’t take losses, I take lessons. I take in a lot and I learn from it. Sometimes I’m fooled again but never three times. Being a troubled soul expresses me, man. You won’t hear my music always being uplifting. Push the boundary, you know? I have to say things in my music, what’s real, what people think.

Do you think there’s something therapeutic about having creativity?

Yeah, yeah of course. You could be an artist, a painter, you could be spoken word, even down to a model..I feel like that should be all you’re about. I don’t want to be around someone who’s like ‘oh cool, I’m creative when I’m with you, but when I’m at home I don’t do nothing creative.’ I want someone who’s 24 hours. The people around me, the people I keep in my circle, everyone’s creative. I think It’s important that whether we’re around each other or not you’re pushing your own boundaries. It’s important, man.

And in fashion who is it that inspires you?

Like I say, Prince. If you see the cover of my album, it’s called Prince Season, and I’m wearing a silky blouse.

Purple Rain.

Yeah, when Prince and and Michael Jackson done the Motown show and he came out in sequins.. I don’t know man, I just like people who are like fuck it, I’m gonna do this and no one can tell me nothing – I like that. That inspires me more than someone else’s fashion. Their state of mind inspires me more.

embracing it, because its my career, it’s my life, it’s what I do and I worked hard to get here. [Being creative] is so much about what can you do next. Real ambitious people are never content.

How long did it take you for you to find your sound?

I’d been doing music for the last three and a half, four years. But before that I was doing music in the hood, on the block. I was a ghetto artist. If you go back seven years or eight years when I was doing the odd video, it had a lot of 90’s vibes. But that weren’t me, I wasn’t happy with it. So to find my sound I met my producer Yung G Money, and I was like ‘you know what, I’m gonna express myself. I’m going to start putting in melodies, putting in tones and see where it takes me.’ It was a big change, people were used to hearing something else but that’s not me. Tupac is one of my idols and growing up I was like I have to rap like Tupac, that’s the sound that hit so many hearts, I need to be like him… but that’s not really what you’re supposed to do. When you’re supposed to be an individual, you’re supposed to be a star or starlet, you’re supposed to come from your soul.

So I done a mix tape with (Yung) G Money in 2016 and no lie, I got 100,000 downloads of six mix tapes. All for free because I wanted people to see, for people to hear my sound. And now from 2016 everything’s been different. Now you’re seeing everything. People just accepting me, innit. I know I’m rough around the edges, I’ve got different things I’m dealing with but it’s important to me that I express myself and put down my own legacy.

When you first got signed were you scared of losing your individuality?

Being creative is a specific way to see the world and to go through life. Do you ever wish you weren’t born a creative?

Sometimes I feel like the guy who cut his ear off, Van Gogh. Sometimes I feel like there’s so much shit I wanna say and I can’t pull it off and I cant pull it out in a structured way and I end up losing it. You wake up every day and your mind’s telling you something like ‘what can I do today to up myself’ when some days I just want to wake up and be cool. I want to wake up and PlayStation, not worrying about how people are perceiving me. Now my PlayStation got dust, I don’t even play it! I have no time to do nothing else and now I'm

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Kind of. But I proved I could do it, so it wasn’t like other artists. We got to sit down with the CEO and draft out my own personal contract. The people that follow me now is more like a cult. So I don’t want to put out anything that isn’t me because the label said I had to do that, or work with the producer who said to do that. I had to make sure I was at 100. I had to be headstrong and know about what I’m about because the numbers don’t lie, so everything I’m doing has to be real.

Is fame important to you?

For me man, fame just comes. It’s not something I’ve dwelled on or wanted. I do it from my heart. My music and my fashion is from my heart. So I’ve never been fame hungry, when you’re an individual and you’ve got your own style and sense and sound, people are drawn to you anyway. And I get both sections from the fame, like I get people who don’t understand me, who don’t like me, who think you’re a weirdo - that’s why I call myself an alien! And then I got people who understand the mentality, you’re an individual and so am I so we understand each other.

You’ve touched upon the merging of creative mediums. Your music is very melodic and has some aspects of pop in it, is that a conscious thing or is it just what’s created?

When people ask me what genre I just say I’m an artist. For me to say I do hip hop would be a lie. It’s not really modern hip hop, and if you want to respect hip hop from the boom back rap days, me compared to Nas, it’s not hip hop. I’ve had people who listen to rock listen to my music, punk rock, because the punk rock people understand the mentality.

chain. The love for my daughter is different, man. Like we’re daddy and daughter but at the same time it’ll be different when she’s older. When she’s twenty I’m going to be 37 - that’s mad! I can see her coming out and doing things with me, it’s that kind of relationship.

I guess that’s one of the plusses of having kids so young, it’s kind of a special situation.

It’s special, man. I wouldn’t ever introduce her to a girlfriend, I don’t believe in that until its 100% - then you introduce them.

Because the way I live, she might get confused because she might just be seeing me with a friend but not know - she’s proper smart.

Are you single right now?

Yeah.

Do you like it that way?

I don't know, to be honest with you. I haven't had a relationship since my baby mum and I couldn't tell you why. My career has come and girls have come. One thing I hate about being me, is that... this is gonna sound crazy but, girls look at me and say “I bet you get bare girls”. But that doesn't mean I'm entertaining all these girls. They don't trust me, even though I've never done nothing for no one to not trust me. That's just me being single.

That's not me being in a relationship. Where I come from, like my council estate, loyalty is a big thing for me. I'm not out here cheating.

You’ll see the idea of F the system, we’ll do it on our own. People who listen also like the reggae element. The beat is like G funk, it’s just different. I’m an artist, you give me any type of music and I’ll be able to work with it. You restrict yourself as an artist if you say I cant do nothing but hip hop.

How long does it take you to write a song?

About 20 minutes. I could write one right now. The only thing I actually write though is a format. It’ll take 30 minutes in total from writing to sending it to the label. Me and (Yung) G Money work like crazy.

Do you play any instruments?

I can play steel pans. My dad’s a musician who’s famous for it. I can play piano. I can strum a guitar, wouldn’t say I could play it but I can strum it. I’m working on it. Like I say, my voice is my instrument, I can do some things other artists cant do like hit a higher pitch.

You posted a really sweet picture on Instagram with your daughter.

What’s it like having kids?

Yeah, I got the one. I had her so young, I’m twenty eight now, I was eighteen when I had her. It got to a point that me and her mum were friends then friends with benefits. And I’m not the type of guy to be like okay well fuck off and do this on your own. For me to tell her I’m not ready when we’ve both done it… it’s not man enough. So I manned up and said I’ll be there if you decide to have her and she did. And in ten years I’ve been there from the get go. I was the first person she grabbed onto in the world. Literally, I was leaning down and I had my gold chain on and she comes out and grabs onto my

"My mom used to say don't go around breaking young girls hearts"- Billy Jean, you know what I'm saying? It’s selfish because you're telling this girl the world but you don't really mean it. So you get fucked off, but how does she feel? And I've grown into a guy who understands that. I'm not going to lie to no one. I'm meeting a girl, I'll be upfront with how this is the position of my life. But the girls who I want, the girls I like, are always just like I don't know how this could happen cuz I see you doing this and that always makes me go back to being seen as a bachelor. It's hard for me to find someone I like and want to be with because of what I do. It's fucked up like that.

Because you work so much?

Because I work so much, because I'm around different people so much. I want to be loved but I feel like I'm getting love from different things. I'm getting love from people who love my music or people on Instagram, I'm getting that kind of love.

Sometimes I feel like I'm misconstruing what the main love that I need is. And that's hard.

How does being from London effect the way you approach music?

Because I come from the inner city, it feels enclosed, everyone knows each other. You see the same people everywhere. These are your people and I think it helped me build my team. One thing I’d say is fucked is that I’m not afraid to die. That’s one of the downsides of growing up in the hood, we’ll all say the same thing – we don’t care if we die. Coming from the ghetto that stays, this idea that if you live, you live and if you die, you die.

And I don’t think that would change. That’s one thing that bothers me.

Are you close to your parents?

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I’m close to my mum. My dad was a musician, he was a rock star so I didn’t really have the best relationship with him. He used to beat us up as well, it was closer to being the Jacksons than just music. Forced to be a lot of things. But now I can look back and say that’s a good thing. The music you put into us was a good thing. I used to be mad at my mum because she’d let him chase us around but she couldn’t do nothing. Me and my brothers had a court case we were going to use without understanding that he was just a rock star. He wanted the best for his kids. He just wasn’t the best dad.

Some people are not supposed to be parents.

Yeah exactly. And this is why I feel in my heart now that I’ve been the best dad because I can’t let this go around twice. There’s a rule in the hood that if you have a fucked up dad or a single parent, you don’t do it ever because it can’t roll around twice. The pain that we felt can’t happen again. When you’re from the ends of the hood you get a better, a stronger love for your kid. When you’re from an area where you don’t get that. Any bad thing can be turned into a positive and any positive can be grown. That’s how I feel.

It sounds like you have a lot of trauma and have battled with mental health. Do you have any words for people who are going through something similar right now?

Mental heath is real. Mental health is real. I just want to tell people that you don’t always have to feel like you have to be happy and not admit they’re in a bad place. Because it happens. It’s life. People go through it and get through it. But sometimes people don’t.

Like Amy Winehouse, Michael Jackson, Whitney Houston - people in high positions of power, high positions of fame. Taking away the lesson that depression, mental health above anything is real. Anyone going through bad mental health should take it step by step. I had to be by myself to love myself, to love my own character. If anyone doesn’t then fuck them. We don’t have enough time in life to be sitting around saying I hope this guy likes me or I hope this girl likes me. We got no time for that so just embrace who you are, what you are whether you’re black, white, gay, straight, whatever - just be you, do what you want. No cap, you dig?

He takes a minute to have a drag of his cigarette and have a sip of his sugary cocktail.

(In reference to his drink) This one’s hitting the chest, man.

On the rocks?

On the rocks with the slightest splash of coke just so it’s dark brown. When I was in the Caribbean though it was rum every day.

Rum on it’s own?

Yeah they don’t play no jokes. You’ve got ice, ice is the diluter.

What profession other than your own would you not like to attempt?

Retail. You can’t tell me what to do.

Did you used to work in retail?

Are you a heavyweight?

No, I’ve never had a job.

Yeah, I’m a rock star love, still a rock star.

Especially these days I don’t really sleep. The most I’ll sleep is five hours and then have a power nap in the afternoon. I’m always energetic, my body’s gotten used to it now.

That’s seven days a week. I don’t really like sleep.

Were you an artist the whole time?

No this is what I’m saying sis, I was on the streets, my ways of making money was on the streets, doing illegal shit.

What age did you decide that wasn’t enough?

We decide at this point to finish our drinks and continue the second part of the interview in the courtyard. Before we leave I ask him a short questionnaire devised by Bernard Pivot.

My mum had had enough stuff like police coming to the house, my daughter was born So a sequence of events?

What’s your favourite word?

Well if you can tell from my music I say slack a lot and ya dig a lot.

What’s your least favourite word?

Bored, can’t, wont. My daughter’s not allowed to say bored. I don’t think you should ever be bored in life. There’s always something you can do. Can’t is not a word, I don’t care if they just put it back in the dictionary. If you don’t want to do something it’s because you don’t want to do it, it’s not because you can’t.

What turns you on creatively spiritually or emotionally?

Musically what turns me on is life.

Spiritually, I’m a very spiritual guy. What inspires me in life is God. I wouldn’t say I was holy religious but I’m a man of God. Emotionally, my daughter, my friends, male and female I love them all. I’m very emotional.

What turns you off creatively, spiritually, or emotionally?

Haters. People who complain but don’t change. Ignorance, arrogance. I think a little bit of arrogance is good for the ego but over doing it is crazy. I feel like you’ll end up like Kanye West where your mind is just gone.

Because you never kept nothing real to yourself. Some sense of humbleness needs to be put in every artist, so you can grow.

What’s your favourite boozy drink?

Hennessy.

A scientist. When I was younger I used to do stupid experiments. Always in my mind if I mixed this maybe a little potion will come! I always enjoyed creating something.

What profession other than your own would you like to attempt?

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Yeah, I’d been to jail four times as a kid. And there were a lot of things in my head that made me think ‘you’re worth better than this, you’re worth more than this’. I was never convicted for a crime I committed, it was always dumb shit.

You were wrongfully put in jail?

Loads of times. I’ve never been charged, convicted and sentenced to jail. They always wanted to give me a chance, to put me on probation but I never took the probation so they just sent me to jail. I’ve been to jail more times than other people because of the dumb shit and the people I was around. I was always a leader, I never followed anyone to jail. I want people to see me as me, judge me on who I’ve become. I don’t want you to know my background and judge me on something I would have done ten years ago, judge me on who I am now. That’s important.

What’s your favourite curse word?

My favourite curse word is fuck or shit but I don’t curse that much in my music. When I do it’s just because I’m expressive.

What sound or noise do you love?

Plates being scratched. You know why?

Because you remember teachers scratching the board, you had to kind of embrace it. I don’t know, I do weird shit. Even down to smells I like funky smells, if someone has a cut I’ll wanna smell it. If someone vomits I wont smell it but I’ll watch you. That’s why I say I’m an alien, total extra terrestrial.

What sound or noise do you hate?

Whining. I don’t mind crying but whining I really don’t like.

And if heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say at the pearly gates?

“I like the way you switched your life around.” But sometimes I feel like he says that to me anyway.

Do you pray?

Yeah I pray. I don’t pray when I’m in need though. I don’t know, I’d say I don’t pray I give thanks. If it’s the same thing you’re talking to then maybe there isn’t a difference. You don’t need to go a place of worship to be in line with the most high. You don’t need to be in church.

brand's ambassador.

When we pay up our tab we begin to walk around the courtyard and touch on the future.

And was the single related to that?

Tell us about your work with ASOS. So I'm a fashion influencer. A lot of people will say you're a model, no - its deeper than me just being a model for a company. I've branded myself so being a fashion influencer is about putting your brand with that brand and making a collaboration. We've got a contract with each other, they'll style it and we'll then shoot maybe 25 shots, they'll keep ten and I'll keep five, something like that- and I'll do it with any brand. Fashion influencer is much better - when you're a model you're getting paid to showcase someone else. Your name's not on it.

With ASOS, I’m trying to get them to do a brand, I’ve got a brand coming out.

Oh, tell us about it.

It’s going to be called Prince Apparel. It’s upscale high fashion with trippy designs, a lot of snake based designs. I don’t wanna say too much but it’ll be on stationary and t-shirts. I’m trying to do bigger things. There are a lot of bigger things coming, still with the clothing.

It’ll be made for everyone.

What are you most excited about in the next year?

I’m excited about a mix of things. I’ve got the fashion going off and I’ve got the music thing going and I’m just trying to push it in different ways. And it’s got people talking so that’s important. Bigger contracts, longer contracts. I always said I want the fashion to be just for fun. I don’t want people to feel like they have to book me but because I’m a business man but it’s become tied into that.

Which EP’s can we listen to now?

So Prince Season is out now. The record coming out with Bentley I think is going to be called ‘Music is my Fashion.’ It’s either gonna be called that or Prince Season 2. It’s all coming together, man.

Can you tell us a little bit about Non Stop Working?

Yeah, so Non Stop Working is a brand. They're from my ends, my brother's boys - same kind of background. Drug dealers trying to make a change and left that life alone. My boy, Fire Sky High Fly, that's my close boy, he brought me into the fashion world. So with Non Stop Working what I did was introduce them to Fire because he's the fashion plug. I wanted him to do his own thing and for us to come together. So after I linked them up I became the

Yeah, so what I do as well is with my music, I do things for fashion brands exclusively. There was one track called One Piece, they're a big, verified fashion brand from Norway - I done a tune for them. And what I'm trying to do in between my songs and my singles is I'll holler at a fashion brand and do a song exclusively for you. And if you see anyone copying that method you know where they got it from first. We'll talk and have a meeting about what you wanna do with it. I could only work with you if you're on some high fashion shit. Prince Season is called that because Prince is one of my favourite artists but also because you need to hold yourself in the highest regard, the levels have got to be up, not just for the ends.

Where would you like to be in 10 years time and what can we expect from your next album?

The album has already been done, I've got the EP coming out in August with Warner Music and Bentley Records. Prince Season isn't released from my label though. They promote it but I released it from my own pocket because I want people to see where I'm at. I can't wait for people to hear the EP they're releasing in August. The first single off the album is a tune I did the other day with Jean Paul. That's going to be a big single, it's called 'I Aint' - I was going to call it Depression, but it's called 'I Aint' because I like to do songs that start off depressed and end up elevated. In ten years, I don't want to sound negative but I just hope I'm alive in ten years, man. I want to be alive, I want to be kicking - my daughter will be 21 in ten years, like I just want to be here, I want to be alive because you never know when shit goes left. We could do this interview and something could happen next week. I don't even plan my next day. I plan for today and save for tomorrow. But I could never tell you how to organise something for next week. I don’t know what's gonna be in ten years. If you asked me ten years ago I'd been sitting here talking to you I would have been like no way, and look how different things are now.

As we finished talking that is what stands out- how different his life has become, how hard he has worked to forge a career filled with creativity and discipline. We leave the interview after three hours of talking. Between his distinctive music, his entrepreneurial instincts and his unbridled passion for artistry and artistic integrity, it is safe to say that Bate Nate H is on the right track to becoming a decided inspiration on the London and New York music and fashion scenes.

Text: Caz McKinnon Images via Sherrece Ollivierre

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PARK LIFE Beth wears: White multi printed summer shirt - £200 and high waist maxi skirt with front split detail and contrast belt - £350, both NeobotanicFashion

LONDON RUNWAY

Photography - Rhiannon D'Averc Wardrobe - NeobotanicFashion, Lallaxrr, and LinmiR Millinery Make up and hair - Francesca Panzera Models - Stephanie Mitchell and Beth Kite Additional styling - Lalla Bronshtein

NeobotanicFashion is a fashion house creating vibrant and elegant womenswear & menswear based on its own exclusive prints. These are inspired by nature - fruits and vegetables – in a unique and distinctive botanical style.

All clothing items are unique and made to order in their own London factory. They believe in a more individualised take on modern fashion – rather than mass produced items.

Silk and wool scarves are available via direct order, while bespoke clothing made from their fabrics can be ordered through their website.

Lallaxrr creates unique garments by reusing and upcycling existing pieces, reducing the need to create and produce new materials. The handmade and ethical boutique is based in London.

LinmiR Millinery is a product of Linda Mirembe's free time engagement after she signed up for hat-making lessons with a professional milliner, after relocating from Sweden to London.

LinmiR's first public showcase came in 2011 when she showcased at the Young Designer and Crafts/Radical Awards. Since then she has also showcased at Fashion Finest during the London Fashion Week AW and Mahogany Bridal Show in London. In June 2016 she became the Jacqueline Gold CBE Women in business #WOW winner.

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Stephanie wears: dress - price on request, LALLAXRR; earrings - stylist's own

Stephanie wears Yellow multi-layered miniskirt - £200, Yellow multi crop top featuring NeoApple Cloud print £150, and Summer coat with raw edge frill detail featuring signature NeoPepper print - £600, all NeobotanicFashion

Stephanie wears: Yellow multi crop top featuring NeoApple Cloud print - ÂŁ150, and Summer coat with raw edge frill detail featuring signature NeoPepper print - ÂŁ600, all NeobotanicFashion

Beth wears:Â Lime green and peach midi dress featuring NeoApple signature Model wears... print - ÂŁ270, Neobotanic

Beth wears: Lime green and peach midi dress featuring NeoApple signature print - ÂŁ270, Neobotanic

Stephanie wears: Tailored suit in summer wool featuring NeoApple signature print - £650, and black multi open back top featuring Neobotanic print - £150, both NeobotanicFashion

Stephanie wears: black multi open back top featuring Neobotanic print - ÂŁ150, NeobotanicFashion; Cynthia hat - ÂŁ120, LinmiR

Beth wears: SilverBouquet blouse dress - £120, LALLAXRR; Lily hat - £120, LinMir Millinery; earrings - stylist's own

Beth wears: SilverBouquet blouse dress - £120, LALLAXRR; Lily hat - £120, LinMir Millinery; earrings stylist's own

Stephanie wears: White multi printed scarf featuring NeoApple signature print from £120, NeobotanicFashion; White DaisyChain Matching Suit Set £300, LALLAXRR; Lydie hat - £120, LinmiR Millinery

Stephanie wears: Mint summer suit with floral NeoBotanic print - £650, and Summer top with signature NeoPepper print - £150, both NeobotanicFashion; Lily hat - £120, LinMir Millinery

Stephanie wears: Gold Banbury canary floral frill trim dress - £190, LALLAXRR; shoes - stylist's own

Stephanie wears: pink part animal pattern leopard pine jacket - £370, LALLAXRR; Patricia hat - £65, LinmiR Millinery

Stephanie wears: Print part animal pattern tiger bouquet jacket - £370, LALLAXRR; Canile Hat - £95, LinmiR Millinery

PURE LONDON INTERVIEWS Rhiannon D’Averc spoke to some of the stallholders at Pure London to get an idea of what their journey has been, how they benefit from attending the trade show, and what exciting things they’ll have to show us in the future.

100 HAIL MARYS Tell us about your brand and how you got started?

It started about 16 months ago. My background is in graphic design and illustration, and I moved into marketing – into a corporate job.

About 16 months ago I had a property that I sold so that I could selffund this venture. It’s always been something that I was desperate to do – I always designed t-shirts and sweatshirts for my friends back in the day - so I wanted to take the plunge and start designing. It’s aimed at 20-30 year olds. It’s called 100 Hail Marys. My name’s Christian, I’m a Catholic and I need to repent! It’s kind of memorable, you know? I like the fact that it’s got a ‘100’, it’s at the top of lists. We try to be good illustration, good design, quality, but affordable. We like to be a bit provocative without being offensive.

Where do you get your inspiration from for your designs?

I live around East London, I spend a lot of time around there. It’s whatever I’m into at the time really. We try to keep it fresh, we release a collection once every three months, so anything that’s on my mind at the time, we can go out and be quick. A lot of people that are showing here, they’re showing collections for a year’s time. We just don’t do that. We can design something that’s relevant to today, produce it and add it on the market in three weeks’ time.

Are you getting a good response here?

It’s been okay – we’ve been going for less than a year and a half, so at the moment we’re only online. We sell a lot on our website, and also ASOS Marketplace and Student High Street, places like that.

We’ve come here to reach out to retailers and buyers. Not even really to make lots of sales, but to get some feedback and input on where we’re at. What we can improve on to maybe get into stores in the near future. First try, it’s been alright!

What are your dreams for the future?

It’s so competitive, it’s such a hard industry to do well in. There’s so many people doing it, there’s such low barriers to entry. On ASOS Marketplace, for instance, we’re competing against something like another 750 or 800 brands. It’s difficult to make your mark, to get in front of people. It’s tricky. There’s a lot of competition. The shortterm is to make the business sustainable. People like our products, we get lots of return customers. It’s to build a brand that’s got a loyal following that’s going to be around in 5 years’ time, in 10 years’ time. In the near future, getting into stores and getting a bit more exposure. And to keep doing what we’re doing, because I think we’re doing something really interesting.

SORRY I’M DIFFERENT So, tell us how your brand was born.

The brand was born because the mother of our stylist said: “My daughter, you make a difference with your life, have an important job, because you are great. You have all possibilities forever.”

Are you seeing a good response at Pure?

Many people at Pure, and in London, are very happy to see a brand which is very different from all the other brands. We have many followers and many people are attracted to come over to our interesting items.

What’s the future for you?

In the future, we’re looking at social outreach – the base of searches for our brand, because it’s truly unique, our social networks permitted so many people in the world to know our brand.

What’s it like to have your clothes on the Pure catwalk?

We are very happy to be on the catwalk because it’s very interesting for everyone. It’s very different in terms of production. We’re popular now because of this.

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Could you describe the kind of girl that would wear your clothes?

The Sorry I’m Different girl is a girl with a famous, strong personality. She wants to adopt our style of life, she is sure of her life, and she is different to other women.

VINOTINTE Describe your brand for us, and what you do?

Almost 5 years ago, my career as an artist, craftswoman, fabric decorator and dyer acquired a new meaning after meeting the owner of the winery Bodegas Monje (www.bodegasmonje.com). I began investigating what I could do in terms of natural dye with the leftovers from his wine's creation, natural plants and flowers that grow around the vineyard, interpreting recipes of natural ancestral dyeing and techniques from around the world.

Responding to the visitor's demand to buy my fabrics, scarves, clothes, accessories, most of them unique garments, we (the owner of the winery and me) created "Vinotinte": a word game which means to dye with wine in Spanish, a registered trademark in constant evolution.

Every day, following the changes of nature, I dye natural fibers and transform them into decorative, fashionable garments.

I also work closely with other designers, dyeing special fabrics for innovating projects.

I also work closely with other designers, dyeing special fabrics for innovating projects.

Is there something in particular that inspires you?

My inspiration always appears when someone come to me with a special wish or when I feel there is something I would love to wear and can’t find it anywhere. I can imagine exactly the finished garment or the accessories and if I can't do all the process myself, I l always look to work with other crafters. Rare raw natural fibers or vintage textile pieces inspire me a lot as well.

Living surrounded by the sea, the mountain, nature gives me each day new starting points for my creations.

What kind of experience did you have at Pure?

Pure London, as my first step out of our local market, has been amazing. Discovering how interested the visitors were into my work gave me a great injection of gratefulness and happiness.

It opened new opportunities I couldn't have access to, without the financial support of our winery and my local government (www.emprendemodatenerife.com).

Do you have any plans for the future?

My plans for the future are simple. I will continue investigating natural dyeing techniques in my small studio of our beautiful vineyard, creating what I dream so far.

After Pure London, some new projects could arise and I am open to any creative synergy. Time will tell and write the future of our brand.

And lastly, our "silly" question for this issue: What's the stupidest thing you've ever bought?

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ALEXANDRA OTIEVA Describe your brand for us, and what you do?

I am an artist and designer. I have created my own brand and a collection of fashionable scarves for women called “Travelling to dream land”. I am happy to present you my exclusive limited collection of silk scarves with unique personal design, based on my watercolour paintings. The critics say that I am and internationally renowned painter and gifted watercolourist of unmatched and bright individuality. Creating a collection of stylish scarves for women who have a chic, elegant style and inimitable identity, became another revelation of my creativity.

I pay careful attention to the quality of scarves. The scarf edges are hand bordered, and the print is made at the same facility where items by such well-known brands as Salvatore Feragamo, Roberto Cavalli, Chanel, Bulgari, Furla, Carolina Herrera are fabricated. The gift package is just immaculate!

The distinguishing feature of my collection is its exclusivity as only 150 items of each design are produced. My spring/summer collection is made of silk, while winter/autumn one is in silk and cashmere.

Depending on collection and design, the scarves are available in the following sizes: 50x50 cm, 90х90 cm, 120х120 cm and 140х140 cm.

Make presents to yourselves and give these little masterpieces to your loved and dear ones! Every stylish scarf is a story of travelling to a dream land and a masterpiece. Dreams of rest, turquoise sea, freedom and careless happiness, the chicness and luxury of Cote d’Azur, sensuality and bright natural colours. The colours on silk canvas come alive as if we are peeping into another reality and all of a sudden feel ourselves travelling there.

World stars who can afford practically everything are choosing my scarves! And their choice is not occasional! My scarves are real exclusive pieces of art, not lower in quality than items by other internationally renowned brands! Become a part of exclusive club!

Is there something in particular that inspires you?

Yes, nature!!!

What kind of experience did you have at Pure?

There weren’t many visitors and buyers. May be because it’s summer and lots of people are on holidays, somewhere near the sea.

Do you have any plans for the future?

Yes, many. I will participate at the salon in Paris. I will do a presentation of my collection in New York in September. There are some projects for a film festival and the museum. I am creating a new collection.

Images by Rhiannon D'Averc and Ian Clark

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LONDON RUNWAY

This page: Sing a Song Bijoux, images by Ian Clark

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LONDON RUNWAY

FASHION4AFRICA The Fashion4Africa event saw brands with African heritage and roots coming together in Chinatown for a real cultural mixing pot. The one-day pop-up included designs from Tobams Colors, Wolf Inc Designs, Massassbi Boutique, Ahina Jewellery, CND Gingerbeer drink, Simiya Designs, Duarra Ltd, FunkynChunky, and Masser Jagne.

From home goods to clothing to bags to headpieces, there was everything you could possibly want on display. The young up-and-coming models chosen for the event are also new faces seeking to break into the profession.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

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THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

“A huge, puffy, black and gold dress I picked up at The Clothes Show years and years ago. I thought it was gorgeous. I even asked my Dad to alter the straps for me so it would fit perfectly. Of course, I wore it… zero times. Now it doesn’t suit my personal style anymore, my size has changed, and it’s out of fashion, so I guess it will simply take up space in my wardrobe for another decade.” – Rhiannon D’Averc, Chief Editor

“Rubber ducks, every time…” – Yessica Klein, writer

“The first is a wonderful leopard skirt by Ralf Lauren. I think, I'll never use it ... shopping with friends will definitely make you do nonsense. The second is a couple of bottles of good wine from the cellar of my partner that I bought when I started researching ... I did not want to hurt his sensitivity, as he always says: good wine is made to drink!” – Nathalie LeTurcq, designer “A cat – knowing full well that I am deathly allergic to them. It was so cute and I thought over time I would become immune” – Rupam Patel of Unico MUA, make-up artist

"A pair of bright red converse trainers! I just wanted to own a pair, but they made me look like a clown!" - Peter Bevan, Graphic Designer

“A stamp for makeup. Just curious about the trends” – Berta Kukytza, make-up artist

"PLANTS. THEY KEEP DYING, I KEEP BUYING MORE" - JARED REHAL, RETAIL MANAGER

“One day in Spain, I bought a very big Mexican hat. It was impossible to pack it, so I was wearing it to come into the plane!” – Alexandra Otieva, designer Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTACTS 100 HAIL MARYS - 100hailmarys.com ALEXANDRA OTIEVA - alexandra-otieva.com AMY LYNN LONDON - amylynn.co.uk BATE NATE H - instagram.com/batenateh CANDICE WU - instagram.com/Candice_x9 ELEANOR DYSON - twitter.com/elliejdyson FASHION4AFRICA - fashion4africa.com FIL MAZZARINO - cyclopevideo.com FRANCESCA PANZERA - fpmakeup.com GEMMA RIMMINGTON - gemmarimmingtonmakeup.com GLAMOROUS - glamorous.com HOLIDOLLS - holidolls.blog HOLLY FULTON - hollyfulton.com IAN CLARK - photobyian.co.uk JENNY WHITE - jwdressmaker.co.uk JOLIE MOI - joliemoi.co.uk KRISTINA GUBERMAN - instagram.com/kristinaguberman LALLAXRR - lallarr.com LINMIR MILLINERY - linmir.com LONE DESIGN CLUB - https://lonedesignclub.com/ MONKEEGENES ORGANIC - monkeegenes.com MR MUSK - mrmusk.com NATHALIE LETURCQ - nathalieleturcq.com NEOBOTANICFASHION - neobotanicfashion.co.uk PETER BEVAN - peterbevandesign.com PURE LONDON - purelondon.com RACHEL PARKER - twitter.com/rachelfrances_ RHIANNON D'AVERC - pcistudio.co.uk ROBERT BEDSON - north-light.co.uk SCOOP - scoop-international.com SING A SONG - singasong.fr SORRY I'M DIFFERENT - sorry-imdifferent.com TALLY WEIJL - tally-weijl.com THE PRETTY DRESS COMPANY - theprettydresscompany.com VINOTINTE - vinotinte.com VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM - vam.ac.uk WAL-G - walg.co.uk

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LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk

S/S 19

Front cover: Stephanie Mitchell wearing NeobotanicFashion by Rhiannon D'Averc Back cover: Pure London by Ian Clark

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