London Runway Issue 26

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RUNWAY

INTERVIEW WITH HOLIDOLLS . MODEST FASHION . NORTHERN SOUL . THE FUTURE OF THE HIGH STREET

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FASHION INTERNATIONAL . PIERRE GARROUDI . MASHIZAN . STORIES FROM ARABIA . FASHION EAST

ISSUE 26 11TH OCTOBER 2018

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CONTRIBUTORS Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographer: Ian Clark - shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Features Editor: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk Arts Editor: Eleanor Dyson - arts@londonrunway.co.uk News Editor: Charlie Whitehand - news@londonrunway.co.uk Graphic Design: Peter Bevan - design@londonrunway.co.uk Illustrator - Pauline Kate - info@londonrunway.co.uk Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Fil Mazzarino, Jessica Drue, Charlie Heart, Mashizan, Pietro Recchia, Rabi Sultan, Ruby Harrop, Judith Willis. Madeeha Najeeb, Cara Balen Special thanks to Citizen M Hotel Shoreditch and staff, Alycia Marie Dean-Johns, Dyelog PR, Fashion International

Get more content and access to special offers and behind-the-scenes at patreon.com/londonrunway Š 2018, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Pixart Printing and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

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EDITOR'S LETTER Phew, we still haven’t recovered from all the excitement of Fashion Month. It’s so interesting to see what’s going on around the world – as we all celebrate fashion in different ways, with different takes on the latest trends. In this issue, we’re bringing you yet more of the shows from London that we simply couldn’t squeeze into the pages of Issue 25. It’s pretty wonderful that we have so much amazing fashion going on in our capital that our pages are overflowing – and there was still more we didn’t manage to include even now.

Suffice to say, we enjoyed it thoroughly. Now we’re all about looking ahead, forward to February and the next month of fashion joy.

But between now and then, there’s still plenty to look forward to.

There are trade shows, launches, parties, catwalks, and plenty of Christmas goodness coming up.

We’re also finally getting the chance to change into our autumnal wardrobe, with the

weather giving up the ghost of summer at last – though rumour has it there are a few more unseasonably warm days to come.

We have lots of treats for you this issue, including a look at the Northern Soul subculture and how it was born, creating an interesting movement in a totally unexpected place. We’re exploring the importance of modest fashion and how retailers are still missing out on a huge market, and pondering whether there’s any place for the current high street in our future buying habits.

Then there’s the question of beauty, and how deliberate ‘ugliness’, or an embrace of the unusual, can turn out to be just as attractive as what we conventionally consider to be so.

Plus an interview with one half of Holidolls, talking about the brand and why it’s the only swimwear you’ll want to wear if you’re off on holiday.

We’re also introducing a new feature for this issue which we hope you’ll enjoy going forward – our New Faces slot. This is a place for us to introduce a new model who you probably haven’t seen before, with a little information about them and why you’re going to be seeing them a lot more in the future.

I don’t want to brag, but we’ve got even more exciting stuff coming up for Issue 27. New features are already on their way and we’ve also expanded our team recently, which means lots more great content through the whole issue. Look out for that when it launches on October 25th – you won’t regret it!

Enjoy!

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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CONTENTS Photography Pam Hogg - 7 Simon Mo - 12 Anthropodiatry (editorial) - 20 Stories From Arabia - 35 Steve O Smith - 53 Fashion East - 55 Fashion International - 64

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Fashions Finest - 80 Trendhood Royale - 92 Ashish - 95 Features Pierre Garroudi (cover story) - 105 Fashion News - 4 Agnes K. - 113 Modest Fashion: How Inclusivity Can Be A Boost For Business - 18 Johny Dar X Blacks - 32 LDC Celebrates Fashion Week - 33 New Face - 49 Why Ugly Is The New Beautiful - 79 Northern Soul: The 1970s Music Subculture That Revolutionised Club Fashion - 90 Interview With Alycia Marie Dean Johns - 101

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What Does The Future Hold For High Street Shopping? - 116 The Big Question - 117

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FASHION NEWS

BY CHARLIE WHITEHAND

Drunk Elephant Skincare plans to be the next billion-dollar beauty brand as it gradually starts to expand into international markets.

Drunk Elephant is a US-based ‘clean skincare’ brand that was set up by Texan-born mother of four Tiffany Masterson. The brand launched in 2013 and sells 17 products with eye catching neon caps that are loved for being free of the ‘suspicious six’ - essential oils, chemical sunscreens, fragrances or dyes, SLS, drying alcohols and silicone.

The brand opened a two-story pop-up shop named ‘House of Drunk’ in London’s Covent Garden on October 2nd to mark their UK launch at SpaceNK and Cult Beauty.

Visitors were immersed in a multisensory experience and greeted by a massive pink tongue. The space was decked out with neon signage, quotes and psychedelic wallpaper prints.

Drunk Elephant is relying on retail partners to expand internationally. Each retailer plans

via Drunk Elephant

DRUNK ELEPHANT HAS LANDED IN THE UK

to put their own spin on the brand during its introduction into the UK market. SpaceNK invited VIP customers to experience the range and Cult Beauty selected various influencers to countdown the launch of the product on social media.

Masterson remains integral to Drunk Elephant’s expansion plans and its appeal, using social media to educate about her “clean compatible” ethos. Her products are high-tech and bio-compatible, and her aim is to prioritise transparency when it comes to ingredients.

The brand falls into a middle

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ground, using some natural ingredients and some synthetic additives the brand deems safe.

Masterson said, "Clean to me today means if you put a clean product on your face or your body, if it gets into the bloodstream it's not going to lead to disease or any kind of internal disruption. It doesn't mean all natural.”

Sadly, the pop up only lasted three days, but for those that missed it SpaceNK are hosting a virtual version of the store on their website. The brand will also continue to be sold through SpaceNK shops and online via Cult Beauty.

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H&M SUPPORTS BREAST CANCER

The idea was inspired by one of their employees who struggled to find stylish, affordable and functional underwear following her diagnosis. The collection will be specifically tailored to the needs of women who have undergone a single or double mastectomy and wear a breast prosthesis.

The “Close to My Heart” collection features a series of three bra styles: a sports bra, a bralette, and a soft-cup bra. The bras look very similar to conventional lingerie but have been designed for women fighting the disease. According to H&M, "The difference between an ordinary bra and one for prostheses is that it covers more of the breast and that it has pockets for the prostheses”

They will come in neutral tones and offer various features such as racer backs, fast-drying fabrics and ventilating mesh pockets, crafted from lace or microfiber.

The bras will range from a 32A to 38D. A H&M spokesperson said that while "these bras are special made for women with prostheses, they can of course be used as a regular bra, just (one) that is a bit more firm and comfortable".

All proceeds from the sales of the capsule collection will be donated to the American Cancer Society (ACS). H&M have worked with this charity for many years. The brand's aim is to raise $125,000 to support the organisation in funding research and education during Breast Cancer Awareness Month. They also aim to directly support individuals who suffer with breast cancer by providing access to medical screenings and follow-up care.

The brand will also be giving customers the option to round up their shopping total to the nearest dollar, which they will then match up to $25,000. The collection is now available to shop both in store and online.

This is the latest in a string of fashion initiatives from H&M. Last month the company joined forces with WWF on a sustainable children's clothing series, alongside the launch of its firstever Fall/Winter Conscious Exclusive collection, incorporating recycled materials. Not to forget their latest campaign, which showed women with hairy arms and stretch marks. Could this suggest an ethical revamp for the brand?

via H&M

H&M is launching an affordable bra collection for breast cancer survivors and fighters.

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M&S LAUNCHES RANGE FOR KIDS WITH DISABILITIES M&S launched its newest kidswear range, “easy dressing” to support children with disabilities. They are the first high street retailer to launch daywear for kids with sensory or physical disabilities in the UK. The collection has been designed to make getting dressed less stressful for children and their parents. This follows on from their easy dressing schoolwear range and specialist sleepsuits.

M&S enlisted the help of a diverse range of young models with disabilities like Down’s Syndrome, cerebral palsy and hip dysplasia to showcase the collection.

The brand developed specific product innovations to cater to the needs of disabled children “from all-in-ones that allow for a cast (for hip dysplacia) to tees and dresses with discreet pockets for feeding tubes, to clothes that are super-gentle on sensitive skin; we’ve made dressing quick, comfortable and practical”. In addition, trousers and shorts with zips and buttons will be replaced by simple poppers and leggings will have flat-lock seams. T-shirts, coats and gilets will have soft Velcro fastenings for easy dressing of children in wheelchairs.

Kidswear designer Rebecca Garner developed the range and said: “Parents told us that disabilities

via M&S

The idea was in development for more than 2 years after 300 parents, who have children in specialist schools, were surveyed.

The garments have been made with “the softest materials, fewest

seams possible and hidden care labels. They’ve also been created to have a nod to fashion without adding unnecessary detail”.

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don’t define their children, so the adaptations shouldn’t define their clothes, it’s why all the products are inclusively designed and modelled closely on our main collection”.

The range includes easy dressing frill tops, joggers, jeggings, coats, gilets and much more. It is available exclusively online and caters to children from newborn to age 16 and will be sold at affordable prices ranging from £3 for a baby’s bodysuit to £36 for a winter jacket.

PAM HOGG Pam Hoggʼs SS19 collection, titled 'Dr. Hoggʼs Fantastic Fabulonʼ, featured elaborate headpieces, whimsical designs, and a touch of nudity for that added bit of flair.

Colourful frills and sheer fabrics filled the runway as well as bright geometric prints and accents of gold. The boldness of the designs and colour palette gave off an eccentric and unconventional 80s feel that is very characteristic of Pam, and weʼre all here for!

Worn by the likes of Lady Gaga, Bjork, and other notable names, Pam Hogg is a self-taught fashion designer who received an honorary doctorate for her contributions to fashion in 2016. Having decided to put a break on her fashion career to switch over to music with her band Doll, she never strayed far from the fashion scene. Her return to LFW was met with a standing ovation in 2009, and standing ovations have just kept coming since with her participation twice every year.

Photography by Ian Clark

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SIMON MO With the ocean and its wildlife as the inspiration, Simon Moʼs SS19 collection "Seas the Day" highlights the negative impact that pollution has on them resulting from human behaviour and decisions. Justin Hofmanʼs shocking 2017 image “The Sewage Surfer” and one of Moʼs favourite stores, Sinbad the Sailor, were highly influential in the designing of his collection. Moʼs personal upbringing on an island country also made him feel a strong sense of responsibility to draw attention to the plastic pollution in our waters, so wanting to help others develop an admiration for the sea through his pieces to promote global change was a major theme.

A nautical theme is present with the bucket hats, ocean blues, and orange coral pieces. With wavelike gauze fabric skirts, exotic jacquards, and a reference to vintage scuba diving suits for exaggerated shapes and silhouettes, his collection really reflects the ocean in a modern, yet retro way in fabrics and expert tailoring. Passion and compassion is definitely evident in his work.

Images provided by Dyelog PR

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MODEST FASHION: HOW INCLUSIVITY CAN BE A BOOST FOR BUSINESS Madeeha Najeeb discusses the lack of modest wear options available on the UK high street and how businesses are failing to address an important gap in the market.

Let me tell you all about modest wear, straight from the heart of a Muslim girl. The majority of Muslim women around the world cover their whole body with a loose dress and head covering. The former is commonly known as a abaya or jilbab and the latter as a hijab or scarf. Now, don’t get a girl wrong—modest wear is not just about an abaya or a jilbab. A broad definition would be dressing to cover up the body with loosefitting form clothing.

they use overseas brands to fill this gap in the market. A couple of overseas brands have started to become very famous in the past few months, like Modanisa, a Turkish brand which has a huge range of modest wear of every type and have now opened a warehouse in United Kingdom too. A few of the very famous local brands in England include Aab, Inayah and Haiqah. East London is the hub for local modest wear brands, and many brands are Instagram based.

Just like many other women around the world, regardless of their religion or culture, we Muslim women love to shop. With such a high global population, it would be justified to state that Muslims are among the largest consumers of goods around the world, yet it took decades for modest wear to reach the mainstream brands.

A handful of brands from the USA have a few pieces here and there in their clothing lines, and recently a few brands here in the UK have added a few pieces of modest wear to their ranges. The irony? It has taken brands all this time to make us feel included, and yet it still feels half-hearted. M&S and Sports Direct have been carrying a couple of designs of burkinis for quite some time now, while Debenhams announced that they carry a line of hijabs (which frankly I have failed to find on their website), and finally H&M came out with a modest wear range last year which included just a few pieces with long sleeves, loose hems, and unfortunately bad colour and fabric choices.

As a fashion fan, I have been following a few modest fashion bloggers for years now and I can state this with full confidence:

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With all these options offered by international brands, why do I still feel left out? The answer is that despite the 2.8 million Muslims benefiting the UK economy on a daily basis, it feels like the mainstream media is still having a hard time accepting and including us. While some brands have started including hijabis as models in advertisements and promotional posters, I think it is about time that more labels started to include hijabi friendly lines too.

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We love maxi dresses! We love tunics! We love skirts! We love pants! We love gowns! We love suits! We love fancy evening wear!

We also believe it is possible to make this all available for us with just a few slight tweaks here and there. Don’t get me wrong, a few of the existing clothes do suit us here and there from different brands, but we often have to wear full sleeved undershirts, or sometimes turtle necks, or sometime another pair of pants underneath because the fabric is see through or not long enough.

umbrellas, imagine all the hijabis lining up buying those in every colour available!

Some simple maths to go along with my logic – on average, a long sleeve maxi dress costs you around £17 - £90, depending on the brand you get it from. Keep in mind that the majority of these dresses have plunging necklines, slits along the sides, are backless or too form fitted. While most of these issues are manageable with the addition of an undershirt or Spanx, it does add extra figures to the total on our receipts, and boy-oh-boy do we feel hot in so many layers. Give us girls a break! If brands were to add a variety of modestly designed maxi dresses under their

Let’s take a look at LFW for a minute. There were a lot of designers to be admired but again, my dilemma prevails. There was little representation of Muslim girls, which should be alarming for the high-end brands because if a billion of their consumers are restricted to only being able to buy a coat or a handbag and not be able to splurge in the clothing section, it does affect the brand’s profits to some extent. This is where the high street shops and brands come in and present us with some, although limited, options for clothing. They are taking the

Same goes for skirts (either not long enough or made from seethrough fabric), pants (short in length and tight around the hips), palazzos (short in length), tunics (sleeveless, short length, deep plunging front and back necklines). We Muslim girls know how to pack on layers for the sake of dressing up, but we would love to have it easy like everyone else does.

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Muslim women market.

Maybe reading this some might wonder why I am whining so much.

Some people might think I can just take it all off instead of oppressing myself, but my lovelies, this is not oppression. We cover up to please God, like every woman does, irrespective of which religion she belongs to. But no one said modest fashion must be boring or just an abaya. Let us have our hair down (not literally), and I think it’s about time that we were included by mainstream fashion. Alongside local Muslim consumers, we crazy Muslims love to travel to the UK from around the world just for the sake of shopping, so I am openly giving out our secret to the fashion industry. Go wild and take advantage of our money by making us Muslim women go gaga over modest wear lines that are made with care and acceptance. No more half-hearting our dresses!

To read more thoughts, follow Madeeha Najeeb on her Twitter @crazymummyof2.

Images via Rhiannon D'Averc

ANTHROPODIATRY

Mashizan's shoes are so good, your feet will want to wear them with or without you. We caught these feet living the high life at the Citizen M Hotel in Shoreditch, making full use of one of their modern, funky rooms.

Find the collection at mashizan.com

Photography - Rhiannon D'Averc Models - Jessica Drue and Charlie Heart Location - Citizen M Hotel, Shoreditch Designer - Mashizan

This page: Charlie wears: Tambora Iridescent- €400; and Jessica wears Gemma Iridescent- €400, both Mashizan

Jessica wears: Tambora Gold €400, Mashizan

Jessica wears: Tambora Gold €400, Mashizan

Charlie wears: Tambora Silver â‚Ź400, Mashizan

Jessica wears: Tambora Mekong â‚Ź400, Mashizan

Charlie wears: Tambora Iridescent - â‚Ź400, Mashizan

Charlie wears: Tambora Silver â‚Ź400, Mashizan

Charlie wears: Tambora Silver â‚Ź400, Mashizan

Charlie wears: Gemma Iridescent - â‚Ź400, Mashizan

Jessica wears: Tambora Black €400, Mashizan

Jessica wears: Tambora Gold €400, Mashizan

JOHNY DAR X BLACKS Johny Dar’s most recent exhibition was launched at long-standing member’s club, Blacks, of Dean Street.

The exhibit, hung on the walls of the four-story building, featured works from his collections ‘War of Life’, ‘Deep Down/Far Beyond’, ‘Rivers’, ‘Journey Into The Stars’, and ‘Horse Whispers’.

His collection of work, ‘Horse Whispers’, is a body art series featuring an Arabian stallion, onto which Dar hand-painted twelve different looks, then shot a series of photographs.

Not only an artist, Dar is also a musician, designer and director, having started his career by launching his avant-garde label in 1999, whilst still studying fashion in Los Angeles.

‘Dardelica’, Dar’s own musical work created with producer Dan Vinci, was performed as a set by the latter on the lower-ground floor of the club, which brought an extra dimension to the exhibition.

Having already brought ways to see and hear his work at this interactive event, there were also slabs of vegan dark chocolate art to be tasted, inspired by Dar’s art, and manned by servers covered in gold body paint. Alongside the chocolate were colouring books created by the artist, inviting the guests to get creative themselves, and be inspired.

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LDC CELEBRATES FASHION WEEK We visited the Lone Design Club’s latest event at their most recent pop-up, in the form of an immersive shopping experience.

Celebrating London Fashion Week, the event allowed for an alternative environment for fashion enthusiasts to take part in, with only press and buyers being able to attend the shows. Not only could the public attend, but designers without the funds for expensive fashion show fees could showcase their fantastic work.

The pop-up store featured products from over 20 independent brands, including unique clothing,

jewellery, accessories and shoes.

Guests could meet the designers behind the brands, and over the duration of the pop-up, consumers were also given the opportunity to attend masterclasses and workshops hosted by the designers themselves, and even receive oneto-one personal styling sessions.

The event delivered on the party atmosphere, with guests spilling onto Soho-located Greek Street, and DJ Bianca Whyte providing the music, who’s own brand, Whyte Studio, featured at the event, worn by models-turned-dancers on podiums.

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Stories From Arabia is a collective that provides a platform for the elite fashion designers from the Middle East in London to showcase their work and culture. With 9 designers each with their own flair and take on fashion, every piece was exciting, new, and so reflective of their creatorʼs home and history. “‫”ﺑﺢ‬, which means love in Arabic, were embroidered and intricate embellishments were carefully placed to create elaborate and detailed looks. Fabrics included the use of silk, satin, tulle, suede, leather, velvet, and more were utilised. Caftans were on display as well as pantsuits and bridal gowns graced the walkway. The diversity, from Western looks to more traditional looks, and range of designs were awe-inspiring and gorgeous to see!

The designers and their collections, in order, were: Abeer Couture, 'Lady In Glamour' Nouveau Art,'Colourful Needles' Atelier Zuhra, 'Swan Lake Collection' Farfalla Hessa Al Hemel, 'The Yard' Lakioui Sonia Gerrouani, 'Oriental Dream' SWAF Design Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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NEW FACE CHARLIE HEART Name: Charlie Heart Age: 33 Location: London How long have you been modelling for?

A few months, I just got the courage to do it!

Where are you from originally?

Gdansk, Poland Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can make funny voices/noises What fact about you would surprise people?

That I own a Mongolian bow...

What are your ambitions?

To inspire younger generations to follow their dreams and I hope to make a change, make the world a little bit better.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

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NEW FACE JESSICA DRUE

Name: Jessica Drue also known as LJ London Age: 24 Location: London

I just have such a baby face.... A serious fact that may surprise people is that I want to be Prime Minister sometime in my future.

How long have you been modelling for?

On and off since I was a teenager.

What are your modelling ambitions?

I want to change the stereotypical world of what models “should be”.

Every human being is beautiful so why should one person’s preferences define the stereotypes of what beautiful is? I feel that runways should be filled with different shapes and sizes, not just one. Our souls are what really matter when it comes to true beauty, within is what really counts when it comes to love, relationships, peace. The outside changes and ages, however our souls live on for eternity.

Where are you from originally?

I am of a mixed heritage.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

Yes, I also happen to be an upcoming rapper. I am currently working on a few tracks both solo and collaborations for my E.P due to be released next year.

What fact about you would surprise people?

Well one that always surprises someone when they first meet me is “I am 24” (LOL).

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Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

STEVE O SMITH In collaboration with US artist and friend Kye Christensen Knowles, Londoner Steve O Smithʼs SS19 debut collection at LFW, 'The Ascension', depicted the three stages of ascension and their take on angels throughout history. With the monochromatic first stage, it transitioned into the more voluminous, textured, and colourful pieces representing the second stages, and this all escalated into the final stage, the actual ascension to heaven.

Lapel collars, short blazer dresses, cropped tops, and skintight pants juxtaposed with the idea of traditional angels that are often portrayed as innocent, modest, and ethereal. Steveʼs pieces brings a more human identification to the idea of angels.

“When I got into more research, I found that a lot of the traditional ways in which we see angels are through the late antiquity perspective. I was interested in interpreting these figures in a modern way.”

-Steve O Smith Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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FASHION EAST The SS19 Womenswear designers for this collection were LFW veterans ASAI and Charlotte Knowles, and newcomer Yuhan Wang.

South Londoner Charlotte Knowles and her beau, Alexandrea Arsenault, provided a futuristic femininity that played on a girlʼs love for experimenting with clothes.

Originally from Weihai, China, Yuhan Wang Wuhanʼs SS19 pieces were continued from her graduate

collection. The silky, ruched dresses and colourful smocks had tears and gatherings at the most unexpected places that provided a bit of modesty, with an added peekaboo.

Another South Londoner, A Sai Ta and his label ASAI showed intricate and voluminous silhouettes that incorporated his Vietnamese culture. His blend of bold colour and detailed textiles were one of the highlights of the show.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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FASHION INTERNATIONAL

Fashion International allowed a number of brands to showcase their work inside the Amba Hotel Charing Cross. Their collections are described in order of appearance.

Rubaaiyat by Mini Bhandra presented a lunette to the allure of the 90’s epoch. Exuberant ruffles and exaggerated sleeves add drama to the feminine element of the collection.

and one-off trend setters, menswear designer Simone Watson created the See:Saw Clothing menswear SS19 line to be hand-made in the UK. Karen Gold is a contemporary British label that fuses tailoring with eclectic visuals – this season was inspired by traditional patterns from the 18th century.

The SS19 Afrodite collection is entitled “Black Sparta” and SamDada created a collection with merges African tradition, and peace as the central factor European modernism. It features reflected in her design and bold, rich African prints framed in approach. The self-taught designer contemporary silhouettes. uses shapes inspired by her native Pakistan.

Omar Mansoor returns to London Fashion Week for SS19 with his Ahmed Salim came up with the 14th collection featuring an array idea to found Beligi London while of luxurious fabrics in bright red serving a 5-year sentence for Class draped in various silhouettes. This A drug distribution. On his release prêt collection consists of evening from prison, he brought the dream wear primarily with Omar’s to life - this season, he showed signature style. smart streetwear with a twist.

Images via Fashion International Inspired by travel, music, society

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WHY UGLY IS THE NEW BEAUTIFUL Cara Balen explores how the up-and-coming model Jazzelle Zanaughtti embodies the rising popularity of counterculture style in the beauty industry.

Over the last few years, the beauty industry has obsessed over a dizzying array of trends that have risen to popularity through online platforms. Sites like YouTube and Instagram have fuelled these crazes, sometimes labelled as challenges, which urge everyone – from social media influencers to the public – to engage in the same beauty routine and wear their makeup in the most popular way.

You only have to look at the success of the Kardashian-style contour and highlight or the ‘Instagram brow’, which has become a favourite for beauty trend setters around the world, to realise the massive impact of such looks. Whilst this is extremely beneficial for the beauty industry, as millions of internet users are introduced to the power of makeup, there is a downside to the rise of such internet crazes. It is so easy for makeup artists to emulate these trends, turning the world of beauty into a place where everyone has the same homogenous face.

That is why it is so refreshing when someone injects a shot of individuality into the world of fashion. There is an alternative side to the beauty industry that celebrates those with a unique look and rejects the idealised ‘Instagram face’ – like the Kardashians or popular makeup artists like Huda Kattan. It seems that there is no one better to exemplify this than the model that everyone is talking about: Jazzelle Zanaughtti aka UglyWorldWide.

With a shaved head and eyebrows, messy makeup, and often sporting metal grills, Jazzelle radiates originality. Her look defies societal norms as she subverts every expectation of what a beautiful woman should be. She draws squiggles where her precisely painted eyebrows should be, and often smears her face with red makeup to mimic blood stains or

bags under her eyes. It seems that she doesn’t just use her Instagram handle @uglyworldwide as a derogatory joke at her own expense but wears it like a badge of honour.

Every look seems to be what society would deem as ‘ugly’, yet she shows that challenging the norm can be considered beautiful.

There’s no better endorsement for her style than her spectacular rise from being a normal Instagram user to modelling for brands and designers, such as SAVAGE X FENTY and Gareth Pugh, after being noticed by the British photographer Nick Knight in 2016.

UglyWorldWide is embodying her nickname as she shows off her supposed ugliness on a world-wide platform. But Jazzelle refuses to bow down to societal pressures to become a typically feminine beauty queen. With every catwalk, photoshoot or magazine cover she makes sure to add a twist of her signature ‘ugly’. Her recent walk for Gareth Pugh highlights this, as half of her face was covered by sticking plasters, something that harks back to her early Instagram days in which she would often wear a plaster over her nose.

But although her looks are sometimes disconcerting, and can border on disturbing, it is hard to deny that Jazzelle is absolutely stunning. It is as if (quite literally) plastering ‘ugly’ makeup or fashion over her conventionally attractive body is a figurative middle finger to those who promote the idea that there is one standard of beauty that everyone should conform to. And the alternative beauty industry is loving it. Jazzelle is becoming more and more popular as an increasing number of brands want to showcase her unique look.

In fact, ASOS have just released a new campaign with Jazzelle.

Directed by Terence Neale, the

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theme of the campaign is the never-ending possibilities of fashion as one’s ‘style is never done’. The promotion features a video in which Jazzelle transforms into numerous looks, ranging from an alien to a punk rocker. In it she asks, ‘do you consider yourself a freak?’, and we, as part of the audience, want to shout out ‘yes – you make being a freak look so good!’.

Jazzelle acts as a beacon to everyone out there who doesn’t want to, or can’t, fit into what seems to be the popular standard of beauty. As a queer person of colour, she stands out as a voice for those who were born to be different, and it’s a voice that is getting louder as more people realise that being different is becoming the new popular. The public are becoming tired of seeing the same ‘Instagram face’ everywhere and are getting ready for a new generation of beauty influencers who are making counterculture makeup the new trendy.

You can find out more about Cara’s work by following @BalenCara on twitter.

Image via Instagram

Fashions Finest is always one of our stops during LFW, and this season didn't disappoint. With plenty of new faces as well as some designers they've presented in the past, there was a lot to see. This gallery presents just one of their multiple shows over the course of the weekend.

The designers featured, in order: 13 Magpie Design Studios Georgina Dee Adejo Hope Macauley Lian Cara Ocansey Bianchi Twozzday Velika Hartono Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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NORTHERN SOUL: THE 1970S MUSIC SUBCULTURE THAT REVOLUTIONISED CLUB FASHION Ruby Harrop explores how Northern Soul created its own fashion trends, the influence of which can still be seen today.

When Northern soul arose in 1970s England, a new kind of fashion aesthetic developed. In the midst of a soul and dance music resurgence, fashion moulded from mod attire to a more functional, dance-centred fashion.

amphetamines, required a more flexible, sweat minimising outfit.

The exuberance and daring flips and tricks of the dancers meant a soul night, often from 10pm until 8am the next day, was a marathon of energy. Your fashion choice needed to keep up.

The emergence of Northern soul is one the most bizarre music phenomena in recent history. In a strange cultural twist, Northern England saw a popularisation of Black American soul from 1962 to 1971. Young people in industrial Northern England cities flocked to nightclubs every weekend to dance to the upbeat tempo of Motown soul music. Any aging American soul artist would think it outlandish to imagine pasty white kids dancing wildly to their rarest, discarded records. Yet a new generation of kids revived lost records, selecting only the fastest, most dance-worthy tracks and formed a new genre and subculture.

Northern soul represented a shift in music and fashion culture that was wholly working class in origin.

As some mods moved towards psychedelic rock, others, particularly in Northern England, stuck to the dance and soul nostalgia of 1960s Motown. The factory workers of northern cities didn’t want to spend their hardearned cash on flashy records.

They sought the cheaper, forgotten gems of American soul.

The tailored suits, polished brogues and slick Italian style that characterised the mod fashion of working-class youth quickly dissolved as the tempo got faster and dance moves more erratic.

Wider than wide high-waisted trousers and skimpy knitted vests became the ultimate soul boy uniform. Whereas the mods were preoccupied by their smooth aesthetic, Northern soul kids saw the clothes they wore primarily as a matter of practicality. Dancing all night in sticky clubs, topped up on

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Wrapped up in this new subculture was a code of behaviour, an underground celebration of dance that represented social mobility and resistance to the racism and sexism of 1970s Britain. Northern soul nights sparked the beginning of a more inclusive club vibe, every

fashion expression welcome. The home of cool for young northerners became the athletic dancers high-kicking, balconydiving and stomping about the likes of infamous clubs such as the Wigan Casino and the Blackpool Mecca.

The other emblem of the scene were the sew-on badges professing allegiance to specific ballrooms and disco halls. Most prominently, the clenched fist design proudly worn by many soulies originated from black power movements in 1960s USA, harking back to Northern soul’s American roots.

Interestingly, the symbol of black activism connecting the black industrial working class of America to the white industrial working class of Britain, captures the emancipatory feeling of Northern soul. Working class British youth used the music of working class black Americans from a decade before to express their own feelings of rebellion, their identity and a distaste for the racism pervasive elsewhere in society.

Sometimes perceived as a maledominated subculture, the majority of women actually

recalled the scene as one of equality. Club-goers were there for the music first and foremost, not to pick up. Hence women’s fashion mirrored men’s with breathability being paramount. Loose, full circle skirts, cropped hairstyles and flat shoes allowed them to keep spinning and shuffling through the night. Perhaps pioneering a new age of club fashion, Northern soul style was the first to be driven by the pragmatics of eccentric dance, with a drug-fuelled energy.

The rave culture that followed in the decades since has seen a heavy influence from Northern soul’s functionality first, when it comes to fashion. Contemporary underground venues attract those who want to dance all night and the accompanying fashion identity accounts for this. Northern soul sparked the beginning of a culture of all-night DJ sets where music is the core attraction and a sense of community is created as a result.

The techno scene today draws parallels in its underground nature. Techno clubbers are uninterested in the leeriness of commercialised mainstream clubs.

Electronic music and pared-back fashion is a respite to them in the same way that Northern soul kids became bored of the rock and pop in the charts at the time. Fashion became about expression of cultural identity, the adrenaline of youth and above all dance practicality.

Northern soul is one of the most exciting and good-willed subcultures that still permeates through current music and fashion culture. The soul look of 1970s dance may have disappeared from most clubs, but the influence of individuality and a passion for music remains in dance subcultures today. Every fashion trend is a reaction against the era before it, as with Northern Soul and mod culture, yet Northern soul was specifically idiosyncratic in its love for the individual. Working class soul kids chose the clothes they wore to say something unique about their lives, to break away from the bleakness of 1970s Northern Britain and belong to something special.

Images via Pauline Kate

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TRENDHOOD ROYALE

Trendhood Royale are poised to deliver exceptional services to women looking to brighten up their looks and wardrobes. They promise "an image to remember" always.

This collection takes simple shapes and colours but adds a little something more - whether it might be a textured trouser, a neckline drooping off the shoulder, or a drape of extra fabric to create some interest.

Photography by Rabi Sultan

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At Ashish this season, models had buckets of water thrown on them before they stepped out onto the catwalk - with fans placed to dry them off as they walked. Bringing a whole new meaning to the phrase 'wet look', this is certainly taking things to the maximum interpretation.

ASHISH

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Photography by Pietro Recchia

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ALYCIA MARIE DEAN JOHNS INTERVIEW Rhiannon D’Averc sat down with one half of the team behind Holidolls, to discuss the brand, how it came about, and how it’s empowering women to add a little sparkle to their lives.

Tell me about the history of the brand.

It started about four years ago, with me and my best friend – my business partner. We had an idea… I had just recently moved to London. I’d studied fashion design, I’d worked for top labels, and she loves swimwear. She travels, and I travel, that’s how we’re really good friends. I thought, why don’t we make a swimwear brand that’s different to everything else that’s on the market? A lot of times, me and her, we’d create our own wear for holidays, or adjust things or change things a little bit to make it more to ourselves. There was nothing really on the market that fit what we wanted. To be different, to be unique – especially on holiday, where you don’t want to match or wear something that everyone else is wearing. It was the whole idea about being different, being unique, and then we came up with Holidolls – which is the combination of holiday and dolls.

"HOLIDOLLS IS NOT YOUR TYPICAL BRAND, EVEN IN THE SENSE OF WHAT THE WOMAN LOOKS LIKE – IT’S A WOMAN WHO EMBRACES HER CURVES, HER DEFECTS, HER FLAWS AND EVERYTHING." How long ago was that?

That was four years ago, in 2014, when we launched our brand.

Tell me more about the two of you.

We’ve been friends for a decade now. We met in Italy, where I used to live, and I worked as a fashion designer for some top brands. We hit it off, two crazy personalities. We just travel the world and do so many things together. Which is what our brand embodies – travelling, enjoying life, living your best life.

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LONDON RUNWAY What’s your current collection like?

We just came out with the new collection of resort wear. It kind of embodies our brand, because they’re not your typical pieces.

They’re tie-ups and all the things you probably wouldn’t see as resort wear. Then we’ve also come out with a more affordable line that is a bit for everyone, but still at top level. We came up with matching skin tone swimsuits, because we wanted to address the subject that’s been on everyone’s mouth: that nude is no longer just one colour. Or, it’s never actually been one colour, but it’s always been described as one colour by the fashion industry! So, it was addressing this in swimwear, which quite a few brands have now, but doing it in a more glamorous, fashionable, unique, way.

Do you have any plans for a new collection coming up?

Yes, we are coming up with our next swimwear line that we haven’t launched. It’s a mix of nice materials that just feel good on the skin, but always incorporating details of beaded, bejewelled, encrusted pieces.

Everything’s made in Italy, right?

Yes, it is – 100% made in Italy.

What made you go for that choice?

When I studied fashion design, I specialised in handmade products – so embroidery, knitwear, beading, fishnet knitting, all sorts.

I saw that there’s a huge demand for it, because in Italy, the majority of the fashion houses that used to do it have either died out because people got too old to do it and don’t have anyone to teach to continue it, or they’ve made it so ridiculously expensive that it’s not reachable. It’s only reachable for the 1% of the population. They’ll buy one, two, three, and that’s it.

We wanted to create something that is in reachable means for everyone, but still incorporates this old long-time tradition from Italy of handmade things, which are better quality and last longer.

I saw a couple of your pieces at Pure London, how was that for you?

Pure London was good. It’s a very

new scene, we did make quite a few contacts and we saw our brand take another level.

What’s it like to have your items walking down the runway?

It’s great. I mean, we’ve done Miami Fashion Week the year before, we’ve done Pure London, and next year we plan to do Miami and France. It’s great to see what you can imagine come to life and be worn by people, and be appreciated and understood.

People liking it and having interest in it.

recognise you. Nowadays it’s very much connected to who do you know, who have you worked with.

That’s probably the biggest challenge as a small brand because people want to know, who are you, especially when they don’t know you because you’re new on the scene. Even though your product could be good, if people don’t know your name or who you are, it’s really about that. The most challenging bit is probably getting your name out there, getting seen by the right customers, people that will buy your product.

What have your biggest challenges been so far?

As a small company, our challenges are always getting your name out there, having people

So, who is that right customer?

I would say a very independent woman. Hardworking, has her own business even, or is in a position of development. That takes care of

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W o d W r W r W r W r W r W r W r W r W r W r W r W r W

LONDON RUNWAY herself. Her wardrobe is important to her – what she looks like on holiday, at home, going out, in the office, her every detail matters.

Is there a celebrity or social influencer who you would love to see wearing them?

Rihanna! Because I just love her – she’s crazy and she just doesn’t care what people think. Our brand embodies that quite a bit, because it’s a woman that doesn’t care what people think. She’s confident in herself, she feels good about herself, with curves or without curves, with boobs or without boobs, with ass, without ass. Just does herself. I think [Rihanna] really loves herself and could care less what people think. She does herself, and people love her for doing her.

How would you describe your personal style?

My personal style is everywhere and all over the place! My personal style matches my mood and personality, and there’s several shades of Alycia. It can be from metropolitan city chic to eclectic and eccentric to over the top.

Really, I have so many sides of my personality and I match what I wear to that.

Do you have a favourite piece out of the lines you’ve created so far?

My absolute favourite piece… ooh, that’s tough, because there’s a couple! I guess out of my newest line, Mystique. The cut, the shape, it’s our one-piece that’s a thong Brazilian kind of thing, and it really sits nicely on the body.

That’s probably my favourite at the moment.

Do you wear them yourself?

Yes! All the time. I don’t even wear them just as swimsuits, I throw them on with a pair of pants or skirt and I’m rocking it as an outfit.

Do you get people asking you, “Where’d you get that from?”

Yes, ALL THE TIME! Even friends that buy our line, they get stopped.

They always get stopped.

That’s a sign of something exciting!

Yes, it is. It’s a good sign.

Do you have anything exciting coming up?

Like I said, this next summer we’re planning on participating in Miami Fashion Week. Hopefully our own solo show. Possibly also with other designers, we don’t mind sharing.

Then participating in Splash Paris, which is a very big trade show for high-end swimwear in Europe.

If you could change one thing about the world, what would it be?

I guess it’s related to social media, but it’s more to do with what’s happening now in the world with social media. Things have happened to people, and the first thing that people think about is not helping that person, but posting it on social media. Most of us know the famous rapper that was murdered in Miami and then another kid that was murdered in New York, and people, instead of helping, videotaped it and posted it on social media. That is one thing I want to change about the world.

Our indifference to wrongs going on around us.

Why do you think we have that right now?

I think we’re kind of brainwashed by social media. I’m a little older – I come from a generation where social media was just starting, so…

I am hooked liked everyone, I can’t say I don’t check my phone and stuff, but I do realise that sometimes I do put my phone down. It just becomes an obsession, people are trolling and they’re just horrible, because it’s easy to be horrible to someone online. It’s hard to look someone in the face and say the same thing.

What’s your inspiration as a designer?

I take from my experiences of life, I don’t just copy. I think a lot – not

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not everyone, but quite a few brands copy what they already see, which it’s hard not to. You look at something, you like it, and then it’s in your brain. But I try and pick more from my experiences, from where I’ve been, especially in colours, shapes, and styles. Things that I think would suit someone’s body.

Anything you’d like to add?

One thing I want to say, Holidolls is not your typical brand, even in the sense of what the woman looks like – it’s a woman who embraces her curves, her defects, her flaws and everything. All of our models that we pick are curvy, have hips, have ass, have boobs, or even skinny ones that maybe don’t have boobs, but we embrace and we photoshoot and promote being powerful and feeling good within yourself.

Shop Holidolls and follow their collections at holidolls.com Images via Alycia

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When you pledge, you'll be able to: – Vote on the cover for each issue – Access discount codes from our brand partners – Access behind the scenes content – Download desktop and mobile wallpapers from our in-house editorials – Receive a print postcard from each issue’s editorial – Access digital bonuses when available, such as presets, overlays, and graphics – Watch and read tutorials and how-to guides from our experts, on a range of subjects related to fashion – Access private Discord channels where you can ask our experts your questions directly

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PIERRE GARROUDI Pierre Garroudi was hotly tipped as one to watch this season. Before the show even began, we knew we were going to be in for something exciting.

Toys on hats, barely-there garments, a mad mishmash of styling that turned everyone into Burning Man guests via Harajuku and tribal fashion - it was all on show for us. Colour, shape, form, and style were delivered in an allyou-can eat buffet, and we were full after the first round.

Photography by Rabi Sultan

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AGNE KUZMICKAITE The phenomenon of human selfrealisation is the core inspiration for Agne Kuzmickaite’s SS19 collection.

As the main feature of personal fulfilment, this concept draws attention to a component of life that is easily and often lost amongst the repetitive cycle of everyday life – where Agne’s collection reminds us of the importance of self-realisation.

The concept is expressed in the collection through bold letters and contrasting texts. These new

additions break the harmony of the designer’s signature trademark butterflies. The function of the symbolic, familiar butterflies has evolved, changing shape to become a dress, a skirt, the collar of a shirt, or the pattern of a trench coat.

By analysing and observing, the designer takes inspiration from the surroundings of the world around us, and art reflecting contemporaneity.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR HIGH STREET SHOPPING? Judith Willis discusses whether high street stores are heading for extinction.

In light of House of Fraser - one of Britain's most well-known department stores - being the latest retailer to enter administration, it is safe to say that high street shopping is steadily on the decline whilst online shopping is rapidly growing. More than ever before, it looks like the future for fashion is going to be based entirely on the Internet. One day the only shops on the high street may be those dedicated to online orders and Click & Collect, much like the popup store launched by Zara back in January of this year. The photos of the concept store taken in London Westfield Stratford shopping centre look they’ve been taken on board a space craft. Foreshadowing the future, it would seem.

I can’t say that the idea of the extinction of the high street feels all that bleak because I don’t even remember the last time I went shopping to a physical clothing store. I am addicted to shopping apps, checking the New-In categories at least two or three times a day and make too many purchases for my bank card’s liking. Once upon a time, my friends and I used to go into town of a weekend and spend the day drifting in and out of shops, trying things on and having our own catwalk show in the stark, unflattering lighting of the fitting rooms. Now that our careers have taken us to different areas of the UK, we’ve resorted to sending links to say, a dress or top we think one of us would like in our group chat.

When you work full-time and you need an outfit for an event, you’re more inclined to go online and filter down your options by size, colour and style, rather than running to the shops at the end of a long day and digging through the rails, not knowing whether you’re going to find exactly what you’re looking for – only to discover it’s

the wrong size or has a foundation stain on the front. Online shopping can all be done whilst you’re lying in bed at any time of day, free from crowds, queues and stress. There’s also that element of exhilaration and excitement that comes with ordering new clothes and waiting for them to arrive. Certainly, there’s that risk of disappointment if the clothes do not fit or do not look quite as they did on the website, but at least you got to try them on in the comfort of your home and most brands offer fussfree returns.

Online shopping is definitely not for every generation. My mother is sixty and loves going out for the day to shop, despite that fact that most of the time she’ll return home empty-handed and annoyed that she spent “all that money on parking”. Yet, she is baffled by the amount of online purchases I make. I’ll often find her in my wardrobe, suspiciously squinting at the care label of something that I’ve just bought asking whether the garment is synthetic or 100% cotton. God forbid it’s dry clean only!

Before I became part of the production team for a brand, I was in the customer service department. When you work in customer service, you’re on the front line and get to know the demographic first-hand. And whilst brands are trying to engage with a younger clientele, the majority of customers are older women. Placing an order over the phone with an elderly lady could sometimes take a very long time whilst they attempted to navigate their way around the website on the other end of the line, and a lot of them were victims of phone fraud, so would be reluctant to give their card details when it came to payment. By the end of the call, they were usually so flustered and frustrated with their lack of

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technological savviness and would tell me how much easier it was to go the shops. You have to wonder how they would cope if shopping became entirely based online.

For digital retailers based only online, they need not worry about the ailing footfall on the high street. On the other hand, companies with stores are being forced to become more and more innovative in order to avoid the fate of their competitors who have succumbed to administration. Tim Radley, founder of retail specialists VM Unleashed, said the only way retailers will survive is if they offer “omni-channel” shops, where going shopping will be an experience. Topshop’s flagship store in Oxford Street is the perfect example – not only does it have three stadium-sized floors for clothing and accessories, it also has a food court, hair and nail salons and even a piercing service.

No wonder the place is always rammed, it’s not just a store – it’s a tourist attraction.

A future without high street shops does seem bittersweet. Perhaps it will be the familiarity of them being there that I will miss most.

But I tell myself I cannot be too wistful about the future of the high street because after all, I have been a willing participant in its downfall.

You can find Judith on Instagram with @_misswillis_ Image via naganath-chiluveruunsplash

THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered “I feel like in 20 years we might be back to this again.

I don’t really follow trends, so there’s probably some awful ones out there, but I have my blinkers on!” Sejal Shah, designer

“I feel like maybe fluffy sliders” – Francesca Palumbo, designer

"LIP FILLERS! YOUR BODIES ARE BEAUTIFUL AS THEY ARE! - PETER BEVAN, GRAPHIC DESIGNER

“The Balenciaga, Vetements… I’m tired of this trend. I think it’s enough. I get it, people were tired of classic luxury and aesthetics, but can we move on already? We’re not creating anything in fashion anymore, everything is about styling, not designing. This is the era of fashion stylists. They do a trouser and they use it as a hat. They get a shirt and they use it as a trouser. Fuck off! How many layers can you wear? I honestly sometimes think Balenciaga is a social experiment” - Juan Palomino, designer

“Instagram brows or messy buns” – Laila Louise, former student

“EYEBROWS” – SAIMA MALIK, MAKEUP ARTIST

“Yes, those horrible flare pants. Ugh! We’re going to look back and think, what the hell was I wearing?”

“Leggings as trousers rather than the bottom layer of an outfit. Only Victoria’s Secret models can pull this off, and even then…”

– Rhiannon D’Averc, Chief Editor

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTACTS 13 MAGPIE DESIGN STUDIOS facebook.com/13MagpiesDesignStudio ABEER COUTURE instagram.com/abeeralqamlascouture/ AFRODITE - afro-dite.com AGNE KUZMICKAITE - agnekuzmickaite.com ALYCIA MARIE DEAN-JOHNS - holidolls.com ASHISH - ashish.co.uk ATELIER ZUHRA - atelier-zuhra.com BELIGI LONDON - beligi.com CANDICE WU - instagram.com/candice_x9 CARA BALEN - twitter.com/BalenCara CHARLIE HEART - instagram.com/karolinaskowron/ CITIZEN M HOTELS - citizenm.com DYELOG PR - dyelog.co.uk ELLIE DYSON - twitter.com/elliejdyson FASHION EAST - fashioneast.co.uk FASHION INTERNATIONAL - fashioninternational.co.uk FASHIONS FINEST - fashionsfinest.com FASHION SCOUT - fashionscout.co.uk FIL MAZZARINO - cyclopevideo.com GEORGINA DEE - georginadee.com HOLIDOLLS - holidolls.com HOPE MACAULEY - hopemacaulay.com IAN CLARK - photobyian.com JOHNY DAR - johnydar.com JESSICA DRUE - starnow.co.uk/JessLondon JUDITH WILLIS - twitter.com/_misswillis_ KAREN GOLD - karengold.london LIAN CARA - liancara.com LONDON FASHION WEEK - londonfashionweek.com MADEEHA NAJEEB - twitter.com/crazymummyof2 MASHIZAN - mashizan.com OCANSEY BIANCHI - ocanseybianchi.com/ OMAR MANSOOR - omarmansoor.com PAM HOGG - pamhogg.com PATREON - patreon.com/londonrunway PAULINE KATE - paulinekateillustrates.com PETER BEVAN - peterbevandesign.com PIERRE GARROUDI - pierregarroudi.com

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PIETRO RECCHIA - pietrorecchia.com RABI SULTAN - roamingpixel.com RACHEL PARKER - twitter.com/rachelfrances_ RHIANNON D'AVERC - pcistudio.co.uk RUBAAIYAT BY MINI BINDRA - rubaaiyat.com SAMDADA - samdada.com SEE:SAW CLOTHING - see-sawclothing.co.uk SIMON MO - simonmotl.com STORIES FROM ARABIA - storiesfromarabia.com TWOZZDAY - twozzday.com

LONDON RUNWAYÂ Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk patreon.com/londonrunway instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk

Front cover: Pierre Garroudi by Rabi Sultan Back cover: Steve O Smith by Fil Mazzarino

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