London Runway Issue 29

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RUNWAY

INTERVIEWS WITH SERENA MARIJA + ADAM FROST . CHRISTMAS GIFTS . COCO CHANEL . CRAFTIVISM

LONDON

STYLIST LIVE . SORRY I'M DIFFERENT . NATIONAL ASIAN WEDDING SHOW . GRADUATE FASHION

ISSUE 29 22ND NOVEMBER 2018

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino - shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Features Editor: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk Arts Editor: Naomi Purvis - arts@londonrunway.co.uk News Editor: Charlie Whitehand - news@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Neil Dowd - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Writer: Joanna Cunningham - features@londonrunway.co.uk Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Craig Hammond at Eldred Grove, Emily Morgan, Victorija Mockute, Petra Saleh, Jessica Bennett, Kayleigh-page Rees, Ashley Walker, Macie Ovens, Rabi Sultan, Sigrun Bjork Olafsdottir, Imogen May Cleverley, and Cara Balen Special thanks to Serena Marija, Sorry I'm Different, Ekow Armah at If? Lifestyles, Adam Frost, Eve Bokor, and Freya O'Connor

Get more content and access to special offers and behind-the-scenes at patreon.com/londonrunway Š 2018, London Runway Ltd  and contributors Printed by Pixart Printing and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

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EDITOR'S LETTER It's with great excitement that we look forward to the next few weeks here at London Runway HQ. In particular, we'll be holding our first ever event: a launch party for our milestone Issue 30, which happily coincides with the festive season.

Tickets are available online through Eventbrite, so make sure you take a look. You will be able to find this and future events on our profile at londonrunway.eventbrite.co.uk, so follow us there if you want to be notified of anything we do in the future!

new models. We were so thrilled with the response: while several hundred models applied within a few days, we were able to narrow that down to a smaller group for the day of the call. Even so, we still had more hopefuls than we could manage to cover!

You can read all about the open call later in this issue. As for the images we took, you'll see those soon enough - as we're saving them for our ongoing New Faces features. We met some truly promising talent, and we know you're going to be just as excited about them as we are.

We're looking forward to drinks, networking with our friends within the fashion industry, and admiring some sustainable and ethical fashion choices - as we're being hosted by the Lone Design Club popup in Notting Hill. By the way, we're also going to be featuring some images from the event in our next issue. We hope to meet you there!

Also coming up this issue is a quick glimpse of a new brand, If? Lifestyles. You'll be interested to know that I personally filmed a clip for their video page about life's If? moments - the things that can happen and set you on a completely new path, even if you don't know it at the time.

We've also had a very successful week so far as we opened up our doors for one day of an open call for

It's a wonderful thing to be able to look back and see the exact moment or event that set your current

happiness into motion. It's not so easy to recognise it at the time, however, and so it's important to try to keep a sense of perspective.

When something bad comes along and you feel like you've been derailed, try looking at it from the point of view of opportunity. Is there some way you can utilise this turn of events to help you out in the long run?

You can hear about my If? moment in the gallery at iflifestyles.com.

Take a look and consider sharing your own story - especially if something bad came good. We'd love to be inspired by you!

Meanwhile, we're already enjoying the Black Friday deals - though it's important to remember that low prices aren't always compatible with good, ethical fashion, something we're reminded of by LDC's Anti-Black Friday concept store. Check that out if you get a chance.

Enjoy!

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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CONTENTS Photography Stylist Live - 7 A Gentleman of London (editorial) - 20 New Faces - 31 Lone Design Club Anti-Black Friday Pop-up - 36 Sorry I'm Different - 41 Style (Conscious) Guide - 46 Behind the Scenes at the London Runway Open Studio Day - 47

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National Asian Wedding Show - 51 Urbanus (cover editorial - 66 Neighbourhood Voices: Hackney - 79 House of iKons - 89

Features Fashion News - 4 A Life in Design: Coco Chanel (1883 - 1971) - 16 Craft as Activism - 29

Gendered Beauty: How South Korea is Challenging Our Perception of Male Beauty Standards - 33 Interview: Serena Marija - 37 Christmas Gift Guide 2018: 12 Days of Christmas - 43 Ram Horn, Potato Sacks, and Chicken Feet - 49 RIxOllyMurs: A Slick and Sophisticated Collection From the 'Troublemaker' - 63 Interview: Adam Frost - 80

Your Style Horoscope - 85

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The Big Question - 109

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FASHION NEWS

BY CHARLIE WHITEHAND

LAVENDER AND LILLIE: FRAGRANCES FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE In addition, for their home fragrances they have used handmade porcelain containers with individually crafted lilies on their lids.

Their plan is to expand their home collection with the addition of a new fragrance, Ngorongoro, Tanzania.

The new fragrance will have you drifting the mysterious heart of Africa with a rich and musky Ngorongoro aroma. The addition of this unreservedly earthy fragrance, with leather and patchouli, brings you the wild wonder of the dramatic landscape of East Africa which Lillie & Chris explored together 10 years ago.

Ngorongoro, Tanzania candles (£42) and diffusers (£48) will be available online from the end of November, followed by a skincare collection which will be released later in the new year.

via Lavender and Lily

Lavender and Lillie are a luxury home fragrance and cosmetics brand, inspired by the recollection of memories through senses.

The family business is run by Lillie and Christopher Edgar. They are celebrating their second anniversary with the success of their four wonderful fragrances and signed stockist Fortnum & Masons.

The brand has already launched candles, diffusers, hand & body wash/lotion, soap and hand cream in four different fragrances. Each scent and illustration is based on Lillie’s memories and experiences.

Praslin, Seychelles was inspired by Lillie’s childhood home; Palace Road, India is based on Lillie’s visits to India to see her grandparents; Dover Street, London to remember Lillie’s adventures in the capital; and Grand Canal, Venice to evoke the place where Lillie got married.

The brand puts a strong emphasis on design and maintain that their products are to enhance any home, whether traditional or contemporary.

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Via Dyelog PR

LONDON RUNWAY

JAPAN HOUSE HOSTS FIRST FASHION EVENT Power of Identity: Memory Fashion Message II will be the first fashion event to be held in the newly opened Japan House in Kensington.

The show will take place on Friday 7th December, celebrating 100 years of Czechoslovakia’s independence, with live music and fashion led by award-winning Czech designer Liběna Rochová and 12 of her students.

Memory Fashion Message II aims to portray true artistic vision and radical new ideas. Rochová encourages her students to make bold creative statements while remaining dedicated and skilful craftspeople, and this is demonstrated in their artistic and technological artefacts.

The performance will be made up of 12 collections by emerging designers who drew their inspiration from international contemporary influences mixed with national cultural heritage. Alongside each unique design, the show will also feature footwear and accessories

from the iconic Czech producers Bat’a and Preciosa.

The event was organised by Czech Centre London and marks the ongoing collaboration between Prague’s Academy of Arts, Architecture & Design and Bunka Fashion School in Tokyo, where the collection premiered earlier this year during Tokyo Amazon Fashion Week.

Tickets for the show are available to the public for £10. The performance will be followed by a fashion exhibition at the Vitrínka Gallery, which will open the next day inside the Czech Centre. The exhibition will be accompanied by a pop-up shop which will hosts a selection of independent Czech labels and run until early January.

Czech fashion designer and legendary educator Liběna Rochová said, "I am honoured to be invited to London by the director of Czech Centre London, Tereza Porybná. The students' fashion collection which was so warmly received in Tokyo, is

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truly not to be missed.”

Power of Identity: Memory Fashion Message II will feature collections

by Michaela Čapková, Antonína Záblotská, Zoltán Tóth, Agáta Seeháková, Barbora Procházková, Sára Beránková, Karolína Karpíšková, Natálie Dufková, Natálie Nepovímová, Aleš Hnátek, Tereza Kanyzová and Eduard Ganoczy.

These gifted young designers not only entertain and challenge expectations of what fashion can mean, but also reveal what forms of design are possible. These creative individuals have the ideas and they also have the technical skills to make them come to life.

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LONDON EDGE TRADE SHOW DATES ANNOUNCED Following the AW18 London show and the launch of the brand’s very first show in Las Vegas, TeamEdge have their sights set on big things and are proud to announce the dates for their 2019 shows.

The next LondonEdge UK will hit the Business Design Centre, Islington from 27th-28th January 2019. This will be followed by LondonEdge Las Vegas which will run shortly after on 5th-6th February 2019 at the Alexis Park Resort & Convention Centre.

The tradeshow caters to both the lifestyle and youth fashion markets.

The events will consist of a doubleday format, showcasing the same diverse product offers and dynamic styling and creativity. Buyers from 30+ countries around the world will be travelling to attend these shows.

They will encounter exhibitors from 20+ different countries, making LondonEdge the ultimate trade platform for lifestyle fashion businesses throughout the world.

Managing Director Carole Hunter is thrilled to reveal the UK and Las Vegas dates. She said, “Our first foray into Las Vegas was a wholeheartedly positive experience & the whole team is excited to be delivering the second event. Not only that but we fully expect LondonEdge January in London to be an energizing and effective experience for buyers and exhibitors

alike… we’d love to invite businesses to join us from UK, Europe, the Americas and the ROW.” The majority of space has already been allocated for both shows, and you can expect a stream of new exhibitor information and exciting announcements in the coming months. LondonEdge UK is a mustvisit event for any creative, innovative, ambitious young fashion buyer and an unmissable date in the diary for anyone involved with the fashion industry as a whole.

Other trade shows to keep an eye out for next year are: Who? – Future Fabrics Expo What? – A showcase of responsibly produced materials devised by The Sustainable Angle.

Where? – Victoria House Basement, Southampton Row When? – Thursday 24th to Friday 25th January 2019 Who? – Dot to Dot What? – Design-led tradeshow for independent children's brands.

Where? – Crypt on the Green, Clerkenwell When? – Friday 1st to Saturday 2nd February 2019 Who? – Pure What? – The UK’s leading fashion trade event offering sourcing and brands together as well as

Via London Edge

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womenswear, menswear and kidswear collections, and 160 garments and fabric suppliers from 13 countries.

Where? – Olympia, Kensington When? – Sunday 10th to Tuesday 12th February 2019

Who? – SCOOP What? – Designer womenswear trade show.

Where? – Saatchi Gallery, Kings Road When? Sunday 10th to Tuesday 12th February 2019

Who? – Moda What? – The UK’s leading fashion trade event for the mainstream womenswear, menswear, footwear, accessories and intimate apparel industries.

Where? – NEC Birmingham When? – Sunday 17th to Tuesday 19th February 2019

Who? – Textile Forum What? – London’s exclusive luxury fashion fabric show.

Where? – One Marylebone, London When? – Wednesday 13th to Thursday 14th March 2019

Who? – London Expo What? – International Garments, Textiles, Accessories Trade Fair.

Where? – TBA When? – Tuesday 14th to Wednesday 15th May 2019

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STYLIST LIVE The catwalk at Stylist Live was once again home to the trends picked out by their editors as the main ones to watch for this season.

Comprising five sections, the looks were described as Leopard Lover, Under Cover, Bold Earth, Cowgirl Country, and This Old Thing.

The brands on show included high street names such as River Island, Next, French Connection, Ted Baker, John Lewis & Partners, and many more.

Professionals from Babyliss and NARS were also on hand in the exhibition area to offer free makeovers for visitors to the show.

Our team particularly enjoyed offers of free samples in return for empty beauty product containers at Ren, hair styling at Living Proof, confetti-aided photos at Instax, and eating our full body weight in free samples in the food area.

There were also plenty of interesting and informative talks, as always at this event, from women who are leaders in a wide range of fields.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

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IF?- 3 characters, 2 letters and moments that can change your life!

Introducing entreupreneur Ekow Armah's fashion and accessory line with a difference! In life we are constantly faced with a range of situations and choices some more obvious than others. What if? we took up that challenge? Asked him/ her out? Really pursued our dreams?

Exciting things could happen! At if?

Lifestyles ( www.iflifestyles.com) we celebrate those situations through a range of unisex fashion accessories that's bound to get you noticed, with something for all seasons. We also encourage people to share their if? moments-those situations that go on to change everything for us, in simple but inspirational videos done to camera phone. Checkout Chief Editor Rhiannon's very own if?

Moment and her items of choice from the accessory range, by visiting the gallery at iflifestyles.com. Fancy sharing yours? Checkout the website for details. Ekow is very busy developing the IF? range and is on the lookout for potential IF? ambassadors and influencers, so if you think you have got what it takes get in touch at info@iflifestyles.com

Use the code If?10 for a 10% discount on all accessories.

ADVERTISEMENT

Finally, IF?(!) you believe in the power of music, you might want to support Ekow as he launches his monthly, online dance magazine, called INSIDE THE GROOVE, which he is using to support the charity, Dreams Come True, bringing the power of music to children with terminal illnesses. All details can be found here www.patreon.com/biggrooverecords

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A LIFE IN DESIGN

COCO CHANEL (1883-1971) Joanna Cunningham explores the life of the famous fashion designer, Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel; socialite, couturière, costume designer, and Nazi spy.

EARLY LIFE AND FAMILY Coco Chanel was born on 19th August 1883 to Eugénie Jeanne Devolle, a charity hospital laundrywoman known as Jeanne. After a mix-up at the registry office, Chanel was actually named “Chasnel”, when neither of her parents could attend the registration! After herself and her older sister, Julia, were born, Jeanne and their father, Albert, got married in 1884, with Jeanne’s family’s persuasion. They lived in a very rundown, one-room lodging in Brive-la-Gaillarde, with five surviving children.

At 12 years of age, her mother died (probably) of pneumonia, pregnancy and labour. Unable to look after his five children due to his work as an itinerant street peddler, Albert sent his two sons to work as farm labourers, and his three daughters to a convent. This was a pinnacle moment in Chanel’s life, as here was where she learnt to sew - and so her legacy began…

According to those who knew her, Chanel glamorously exaggerated aspects of her life, claiming that her mother died of tuberculosis, and that she was sent away when her father sailed to America to seek a great fortune. She also tended to lie about her age, claiming to have been

10 years younger than she actually was. Therefore, a lot of what we know about her life is based on the speculation of those who knew her and lived around her.

EARLY JOBS, LOVE AFFAIRS, & THE FIRST CHANEL STORE On leaving school, Chanel took up a job as a seamstress by day, and a cabaret singer for military personnel by night. Here was where Gabrielle acquired the name “Coco”, which is where her famous brand, and the classic intertwined “C” logo came about. Unsurprisingly, her alluring performances attracted many of the military men who came to these shows.

As an aspiring performer, Chanel auditioned for a number of singing roles but, with only an average voice, her physical charms were not enough to win her a role. She soon realised that this was not a realistic career path and sought a new lifestyle.

At the young age of 23, Chanel met Balsan, an ex-cavalry officer, becoming his mistress and living with him in his château in a lovely wooded area near Compiègne. Here was where her social life really took hold, and she lived a life of luxurious parties and decadence, reminiscent of the Roman emperors. Some even suggest that André Palasse, her sister Julia’s son, was actually Chanel’s own son by Balsan.

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LONDON RUNWAY Catching the eyes of many men, Chanel soon took the fancy of Arthur Capel, one of Balsan’s friends. He provided her an apartment in Paris, as well as her first shop. Some say that she actually designed the bottle of her famous scent, Chanel. No. 5, on Capel’s leather travelling case, or his whiskey decanter, which she so much admired. She wished for a happy life with her provider, but his elaborate lifestyle meant he was never faithful to her, and he died in a car crash in 1919. She claimed that, from then on, her life was not a happy one, so it seems she really did love her Capel.

Initially designing hats, she became a licensed milliner and after theatre actress Gabrielle Dorziat wore one of her creations her fashion career took off. She then introduced her famous casual chic clothing, liberating women from the corset silhouette to a sportier figure, pioneering the look. After such success, and opening more shops, she finally reimbursed Capel’s generous investment in 1916.

BRANCHING OUT In 1918, Chanel purchased the famous store on 31 rue Cambon and, by 1927, she owned five stores on this stretch. Here, she was able to stretch her business beyond clothing, to accessories such as hats, handbags, jewellery,

and perfume.

Although competition for her was high, sparked by the disappearance of the 1920s boyish figure during the 1930s, Chanel still hired 4000 people.

She also became a costume designer for the Ballets Russes between 1923 and 1937, but she faced some criticism for her designs. Finally, when war struck in 1939, the Ballet was axed, and her theatre career ended.

FILM CAREER Naturally, being friends with so many British Aristocrats, she was also acquainted with the

cousin to Nicolas II, Tzar of Russia, who introduced her to Samuel Goldwyn in Monte Carlo. He proposed an offer she could not refuse in 1931; to be whisked away to Hollywood twice a year to design costumes for MGM. However, this brief stint with Hollywood left her with a bitter taste in her mouth; she described the film business as vulgar and tasteless, but it was speculated that they simply didn’t like her designs, hence her disappearance from the scene.

FRIENDS, DRUG ABUSE, AND MORE LOVE AFFAIRS By 1935, Chanel and her kindred spirit, Misia Sert, were morphine addicts. They injected themselves on a daily basis, and Chanel continued to do so until the day she died. According to those surrounding her, she threw fabulous cocaine parties.

Chanel also maintained strong relationships with British Aristocrats, such as Winston Churchill and the Prince of Wales, and she later struck up an affair with the Duke of Westminster, Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor, which lasted 10 years. This relationship was where Chanel’s inherent anti-Semitism and homophobia manifested. It was rumoured that Edward, Prince of

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LONDON RUNWAY Wales, was also infatuated with her, and they shared a heated romantic moment with one another during her affair with the Duke. In 1927, the Duke bestowed a parcel of land in the French Riviera to the lucky lady, which she later sold after WWII. She never married Hugh; she never married at all, but her affairs with famous men, not limited to the men described previously, meant she led quite the “American dream”.

WWII: A NAZI SYMPATHISER When war came, Chanel was obliged to close her shops, causing the unemployment of 4000 women.

Some say this was a revenge plot for the 1936 labour strike, which put her out of business at the time.

This was when her political views on Jews became openly apparent and, when residing at the Hotel Ritz, her love affair with Hans Günther von Dincklage lit up. Dincklage was a confidant of Hitler in the German Embassy in Paris during WWII, promoting Nazi journalism at the height of the Nazi occupation. Her residence at the Ritz was suspicious, as this was where the German military were housed during the Nazi occupation of France, and she was later criticised for being too close to German occupiers.

Chanel was involved in numerous Nazi orchestrations, not limited to a plan for her to carry an SS peace overture to Winston Churchill in Madrid, in order to end the war. This plan was nicknamed “Operation Modellhut”, which translates to “Operation Model Hat”. This was an ultimate failure, as British intelligence uprooted the plan, implicating Chanel and others as Nazi spies.

CHANEL NO. 5 LEGAL AGREEMENT

Thus, they came to a mutual agreement which landed her millions.

On pioneering her signature scent, Chanel No. 5 in the 1920s, the Wertheimer brothers struck a deal with the businesswoman, fully financing it in exchange for her receiving only 10% of the profits.

Naturally, she later became unhappy with this deal and worked tirelessly to purchase the famous scent back from them.

END OF WWII

After the “Night of Broken Glass”, when Jewish store windows were broken by Nazis who kidnapped them for concentration camps, Chanel was able to fully claim her No. 5 perfume from the Jewish Wertheimers. However, she was unaware that the brothers had preempted the Nazi occupation, and had placed Félix Amiot, a Christian French businessman and industrialist, in control. When the Wertheimers returned to Paris, the perfume was granted back into their hands.

Chanel’s direct involvement and collaboration with the Germans during WWII was kept under wraps, as it would have really damaged her business if people were to discover her shady past. This meant that legally taking control of her No. 5 scent would be incredibly difficult, as a legal quarrel might bring to light her relationship with the Nazis, destroying her reputation.

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In 1944, France was liberated from German occupation, and Chanel fled to Switzerland to avoid criminal charges. Although many women were implicated, Chanel avoided this and, on later interrogation about her relationship with von Dincklage, she was not charged as a collaborator.

Some speculate that Churchill played a large part in her acquittal, and her ultimate salvation as a lucrative businesswoman.

LATER LIFE AND DEATH After the female reign of fashion design during the pre-war era, numerous male designers took the scene, including Christian Dior.

Chanel believed that a woman needed to take back control, primarily due to the impractical designs of these men who favoured the small-waisted figures and heavy skirts of previous years. Thus, at the age of 70, she re-entered the fashion world in 1954. Although the French press were a little wary about her comeback due to her Nazi collaborations, the American and British press revelled in it.

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In 1971, at 87 years old, Chanel set about preparing the Spring catalogue, as usual. After taking a long drive that afternoon, she went to bed in her residence in the Ritz. Chanel died in her sleep on 10th January 1971, and André Palasse, her nephew and alleged son, inherited much of her estate.

Chanel bag is also a winner, and its quilted style is still seen throughout modern Chanel stores. This just goes to show how influential fashion is to people’s lives, as it transcends the boundaries of time, becoming timeless itself.

LEGACY

You can keep up to date with Joanna’s work on her blog, itstartedwithrebecca.wordpress.com, or follow @itstartedwithrebecca on Instagram, and @iswrebecca on Twitter.

Some of Chanel’s most iconic pieces include the little black dress, which we still see today as a staple in every woman’s wardrobe, as well as the Chanel suit, another staple piece for any business woman. Her casual and comfortable attitude to women’s wear was revolutionary and, although she certainly faced competition, her legacy lives on in the sportychic fashion of today. The

Images via Pexels, Pixabay, and Wikimedia Commons

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A GENTLEMAN OF LONDON Photography - Ian Clark

Model: Craig Hammond at Eldred Grove

Craig wears: Green Flannel Suit - £140; and Floral Shirt, £28, both Next

Craig wears: grey cord skinny fit stretch blazer £75; burgundy roll neck jumper, £20; and navy Logan straight stretch chinos, £20, all Burton

Craig wears: orange tank top - ÂŁ25, Top Man; ripped side stripe jeans - ÂŁ49, Zara

Craig wears: Cardigan - Polo Ralph Lauren; Skinny fit pale blue oxford shirt; and bow tie - Hackett

Craig wears: Cardigan - Polo Ralph Lauren; Skinny fit pale blue oxford shirt; and bow tie - Hackett

Craig wears: orange tank top - ÂŁ25, Top Man; ripped side stripe jeans - ÂŁ49, Zara

Craig wears: grey cord skinny fit stretch blazer £75; burgundy roll neck jumper, £20; and navy Logan straight stretch chinos, £20, all Burton

Craig wears: Green Flannel Suit - £140; and Floral Shirt, £28, both Next

CRAFT AS ACTIVISM Naomi Purvis discusses how arts and crafts can be an incredibly powerful tool of protest and activism in the right hands.

Today, activism and protests are something we find ourselves familiar with in response to controversies surrounding subjects such as politics, human rights and societal changes. Where many may resort to physical protesting or violent behaviour, others are using their talents for craft as a way of portraying their own voice.

Craftivism, as it’s referred to, combines the maker’s skill and opinions to create a much more peaceful approach to protest. On the outside, craft practices may be seen as a feminine hobby with little or no meaning to them. However, they are in fact the opposite. Makers create art works not only with great skill, but with accompanying passion and personal opinions which ultimately give the work a deeper meaning and story behind it.

In the past, activism may have been considered a rebellious response to controversy with violent actions.

Posters and signage used for protesting purposes had a similar look to general advertising, using bold fonts to convey their messages in which that could be easily read. In contrast, craftivism artists create beautiful artworks to portray similar meanings but in a much more appealing and peaceful way.

showcase their skill. This step towards a more peaceful approach to protesting could be the positive change we need in today’s society.

Examples of practices that could be used as craftivism include embroidery, crochet, knitting, papercraft and painting. It is also an all-inclusive approach to protesting, with no discrimination towards any who may practice it. It provides a voice for people who may be more introverted but still have their own thoughts and opinions they want to share. It allows people from all walks of life to have the opportunity to participate in their own way and contribute to a much larger outcome.

Not only are craftivists making their mark on political and social affairs, they also have a strong presence on online marketplaces such as Etsy as well as a dedicated following on social media. This growing interest in the practice encourages discussion, whereas activism in the past was regarded as much more aggressive, which resulted in people shutting down at any mention of controversy. By encouraging conversation, craftivists are promoting discussion of controversial topics and allowing people to freely express their thoughts and opinions as well as

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Where many who participate in craftivism work alone, start-ups such as the Craftivist Collective give those interested a community in which they can share their work alongside other likeminded people.

The Craftivist Collective, founded by award-winning campaigner Sarah Corbett, state that ‘craftivism aims to provoke a respectful conversation instead of aggression and division’.

Their website describes the collective as ‘an inclusive group of people committed to using thoughtful, beautiful crafted works to help themselves and encourage others be the positive change they wish to see in the world’ (craftivistcollective.com, 2018).

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Although, using craft practices as an activism technique is not an entirely new concept. For example, suffragettes used banners when protesting during WW2. They used their needlework skills and craftmanship to create hand-made banners used in rallies and processions to showcase their response to the political, social and economic events during the war period. They used their femininity as an aid to help them fight for a right that was at the time only seen as a masculine action. Although many suffragettes used their voices, others would have found release by powering their thoughts and energy into creating these banners, resulting in powerful messages being crafted by needlework fuelled with opinions.

In 1987 in San Francisco, American gay rights activist Cleve Jones created a memorial quilt for those who had died of AIDS and established the NAMES Project Foundation. The aim of the quilt was not only to show respect and commemorate those who had died of the disease, but to educate people of the devastating impact it can have. Today the quilt is a powerful visual reminder of the AIDS pandemic, with over 48,000 individual 3-by-6-foot memorial panels all sewn together by friends, lovers and family members of those affected. The quilt is an example of combining a memorial act with both education and craft in a way which draws attention to a social and societal epidemic. It enabled people of all walks of life affected by the same issue to come together and

work on a project in which they could release their thoughts and emotions and create a work of art.

A more recent example of craftivism can be seen at any anti-Trump protest in the form of knitted bobble hats. Whereas many choose to respond to political events with aggression, those creating the bobble hats participate in a much subtler way, although in no means with any less drive. From the outside they would most likely go unnoticed at a protest, with attention instead being drawn to those protesting in less peaceful ways. Despite their quiet approach their message stays the same. These makers still have a voice they want to be heard but do so in a way which causes no direct backlash or upset. They’re simply using their thoughts and opinions to create art with great meaning.

So, what can we learn from this new age form of protesting? Should we all channel our inner thoughts and feelings and express ourselves through some form of art? In a world that’s full of such negativity, embracing craftivism as a positive response to controversy could be the way forward in encouraging people to discuss their opinions instead of resorting to violence.

Images via Wikimedia Commons, Craftivist Collective, Museum of London, and Pussy Hat Project

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NEW FACE Name: Macie Olivia Ovens Age: 9 Location: Stradbroke, Suffolk Agency: Unsigned

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can sing and also do a weird thing with my eyes.

Where are you from originally?

Stradbroke, Suffolk – I was born in the house we live in.

What would surprise people to know about you?

Lots of people are surprised when I say I’m nine years old because they think I’m older, because I’m quite tall.

What are your modelling ambitions?

I want to be a bit more wellknown, and I would like to do most kinds of modelling really.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc

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GENDERED BEAUTY: HOW SOUTH KOREA IS CHALLENGING OUR PERCEPTION OF MALE BEAUTY STANDARDS With the musical genre of K-pop becoming increasingly popular, Cara Balen discusses the South Korean concept of male beauty and how it is embodied by K-pop artists.

If you Google ‘male celebrities who wear makeup’, you’ll find a list of black-eyeliner wearing rock ‘n’ rollers, made up by the likes of Marilyn Manson and Robert Smith.

But it seems that this view of male makeup which consists of black smudges and messy lipstick is becoming slightly outdated. An increasing amount of male celebrities are applying makeup to enhance their natural beauty rather than wearing it as an act of rebellion against societal norms. However, these male celebrities are found, more often than not, in the more Eastern spheres of fashion and pop culture.

One country that is at the forefront of men’s beauty is South Korea, which has become the male beauty capital of the world. When you think of Korean beauty, your mind might be drawn to the many Korean makeup influencers on Instagram, or the K-pop girl groups who show off their lightened skin, red lips, and large, glittering eyes. But it is a mistake to think that the South Korean beauty industry solely focuses on women. Unlike the West, where makeup is traditionally seen as a gendered product, South Korea prides itself on the many brands and products that are available to men.

And nothing embodies this more than K-pop culture.

A single glance at any K-pop boy band will show you that their concept of masculine beauty is

completely different to what the Western world has typically deemed to be ‘handsome’. Groups like BTS, EXO and GOT7 showcase what it means to be a beautiful man in East Asia. With perfectly dyed and styled hair, blemish-free skin often topped off with a perfect smoky eye, the K-pop Idols, as they are known, show that male aesthetics do not have to be rugged or unkempt. These idols personify beauty, and often groups have a couple of members who are nominated as the ‘visual’ – those who have the role of increasing the visual appeal of the group.

The appeal of many idols can be linked to the popularity of what is colloquially known as a ‘flower boy’, which refers to men who are almost feminine-looking. This may be expressed with the clothing that

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they wear, as idols often don large earrings and pastels, or the makeup that they use. Gold shimmering eyeshadow serves to soften and deepen their eyes, and contour and foundation sculpts their face so that it becomes chiselled and refined. These men wear makeup, but rather than this counting against their masculinity, makeup helps to enhance it in order to allow them to achieve new levels of beauty.

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But it isn’t just South Korean celebrities who are allowed to break the gender norms of makeup and beauty. The South Korean makeup industry is booming, worth over a whopping $10bn, and 10% of this is now coming from male grooming products. All across Seoul you can see billboards and posters advertising makeup stores which specifically cater to men. Using makeup to improve your looks isn’t just a privilege reserved for the famous amongst society, but is seen as typical for everyone, regardless of gender.

But why is it the case that these male beauty standards are so different to ours? Well, there are many different answers to this question. Some cite the rise in popularity of Japanese manga in South Korea. Certain types of manga, such as Shoujo (think of Sailor Moon), became a staple of South Korean entertainment, and as a consequence perpetuated the body images that were incorporated in the style of the comics. Shoujo is well known for having cute and girly female figures, and beautiful, pixie-like male characters. This might have contributed to the appeal of men with boyish charm and soft features.

Another explanation might be the country’s fixation with visual appeal. Beauty is believed to be one of an individual’s most important assets in Korea, which is known for its obsession with plastic surgery and extreme beauty hacks. Often, employers ask for headshots with a candidate’s résumé, and there is a commonly held belief that a person’s good looks can give them an edge in the job market. It may be the case that men started to alter their appearance with the use of makeup in order to keep up in a society where more attractive can mean more successful.

Whatever the reason for the difference between our Westernised view and the South Korean conception of beauty, the South Korean culture of male grooming is becoming increasingly popular in American and European pop culture. As K-pop gains more recognition, we are seeing people changing their view on what it means for men to wear makeup. An example of this occurred on Twitter when fans of K-pop defended the concept of men looking after their appearance after Twitter users

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hurled homophobic and derogatory slurs at BTS’ Jimin. Many of those defending Jimin argued that toxic masculinity is stopping individuals from accepting different ideas about male beauty. Instead of pushing men to be tough and macho, South Korea accepts and promotes a diverse range of male body images. It disregards the arbitrary idea that only women can cover up their blemishes and touch up their appearance, a view which is supported by the popularity of male makeup vloggers in South Korea.

Creators like Park Bosung and Kim Seung-hwan show men how to apply makeup in a way which emulates looks seen in k-pop music videos or on South Korean male models. But unlike Western male beauty gurus, who often appear to tie their sexuality to their love of makeup, these vloggers do not seem to regard makeup as indicative of sexual orientation – something which reflects the Korean belief that makeup is purely a tool to enhance your natural beauty.

It seems that we can learn a lesson from the South Korean makeup industry. Self-expression through makeup is not a gendered concept.

Anyone who thinks that applying

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makeup would help them with their self-confidence or sense of style should be able to do so – regardless of race, sexuality, or gender.

You can read more of Cara Balen’s work on Twitter by following @BalenCara.

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Images via YouTube and BTS

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LONE DESIGN CLUB ANTIBLACK FRIDAY POP-UP We headed to LDC's new pop-up on Charing Cross Road to see what they have to offer as an antidote to the fast fashion of Black Friday.

All images by Rhiannon D'Averc

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SERENA MARIJA INTERVIEW

Rhiannon D’Averc sat down with Serena Marija to talk about life, acting, modelling, writing, and everything else Serena has been up to since they shot together as part of a graduate project years ago.

Let’s start from the beginning. We worked together a while ago – I think it was 2010? How have you been developing since then?

Doing a multitude of things, really.

I’ve gone more into acting now and writing, so they’re my main focus.

Obviously, I haven’t completely left modelling behind, but I’m doing less of it these days. Sometimes you just need something that’s really mentally stimulating, and that’s what performing does for me. So long as I’m creating.

There’s quite a lot of similarities between acting and modelling, in a way.

There is. Acting has a lot more background work that goes into it. But you’re right, there’s a lot of similarities – a lot of the same kind of requirements.

"THE MORE A POSE HURTS, THE BETTER IT LOOKS FOR THE FINISHED PRODUCT" Do you feel like your early experience in modelling helped with pushing your acting forwards?

Definitely! The first time I shot with you, I was so nervous back then. It took me ages to get out of that nervous state, and I found that really helped with my confidence to

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go ahead with everything else. And just with dealing with people in the industry, because you have to network so much. You have to be so good with face to face contact and all of that, which I wasn’t at first. I learned so much. There was one designer I worked with once that was really theatrical, and she taught us that the more a pose hurts, the better it looks for the finished product. That goes for a lot of things, I think, in terms of strengthening yourself. Not just physically, you know? It’s a good example to take with you, and apply to other areas.

far, to be honest. I’ve still got a long way to go, but there’s so many amazing experiences. I’ve had the chance to travel quite a lot. Back in 2014, one project that sticks out to me the most, I was in Serbia and then we travelled out to Bosnia. We were doing a feature film on the refugee crisis, and that really stands out to me because anything where we’re allowing stories to be told of the people that are silenced and that need to be heard, those matters are really close to my heart. To be part of that was amazing.

I’m sure with the acting, as well – if you’re feeling it, the audience is feeling it, so you have to put yourself through that pain.

You do. Everybody thinks you have to go back in time to experience something that made you really sad, or past emotions to bring them back up to the surface, but I don’t think it’s as complex as that.

There’s one technique I’ve heard about, the Perdekamp technique, where you’re literally engaging certain organs to bring the emotions to the surface, so there’s so many ways to do that.

Then obviously there’s been a lot of shorts that I’ve worked on, a lot of my own shorts that I’m writing and performing in as well right now. We just finished one called ‘Dark Souls and Dollar Bills’, which is just hitting the festival circuit at the moment. It’s a big waiting game right now. That focuses on the differences of classes, and the primary character is homeless and vulnerable in many ways. I won’t go too far into the story right now, until everything’s out there! But it’s a very deep story.

Tell me about your acting career.

It’s been one hell of a journey so

It’s been a real mix. Short films, music videos, commercials, and

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feature films. I’ve given some very heartfelt performances. I have to be real. It’s what I do best. I believe it’s essential to be vulnerable when performing, show them the truth, tell that story to perfection. I’ve been very fortunate, I’ve landed a lot of great job opportunities for myself, by myself from working incredibly hard and promoting myself effectively.

Would you say you find a lot of inspiration from political and social causes?

Yes, but I like to try and stay away from anything that’s going to spark outrage, in a political or a religious sense. I like to stay quite neutral on everything. That’s just for me personally. But whatever I’m working on, whether it’s a personal project or for someone else, I don’t like the kind of projects that are going to make the audience feel comfortable. It has to be real, it has to bring out real emotion in them.

That’s what matters to me the most.

You have a really strong identity – you’re all about inner strength.

That comes through on your social media profiles a lot.

You’re right. I’m very much about empowering yourself, keeping yourself strong, healthy, active.

LONDON RUNWAY I think in all honesty, most of the time the industry really takes away from that, because you’re facing constant rejection. Being told you’re not good enough, you’re not right for this job, you’re not right for that job – and obviously it takes its toll over time. It’s taken me a long time, but I went through a big change, and that kind of sparked the whole healthy eating, getting back into fitness, spirituality. It’s really changed everything and really centred me. I found that I blocked everything out for so long, just how much everything affects you within the industry.

I stopped myself from feeling for some time, and that wasn’t good. I feel stronger now, that I can take on so much more now than I could back then. I feel like I have the confidence and I’ve built myself up through engaging in everything that you’re seeing out there. That’s what’s really helped. I just want to inspire, as well, I think that’s really important because there’s so many people going through the same thing. I’m not sure how everyone else deals with it, but it’s checking in with yourself and embarking on a journey – whether that’s into fitness, or spirituality, or whatever makes you tick – I think that all good can come of it.

On a personal level, I’ve learnt that it’s vital to push beyond limitations that the world may hold against you. It’s important to protect your mental and emotional well-being, by accepting yourself and loving yourself regardless of whatever is thrown at you. I want to share healthy inspiration with the world because we are so much more than our age, gender, social class, race, job, et cetera. I firmly believe that we deserve to be the best version of ourselves! Affirm until you can truthfully portray a stronger, healthier, happier version of yourself.

Mental health is such an important thing both in fashion and in the acting world.

Totally, because I think sometimes they forget that you’re human.

When I was doing shows, I was about 18 at the time, and sometimes you’d be wondering when lunchtime was coming. Although I

wouldn’t ask myself, I would hear other people asking, and I remember one person saying “Oh, they’re models, they don’t need to eat”. Really, they do forget that you’re human and that you’re having to do really long days, having to give a lot of energy, a lot of focus, a lot of passion, a lot of professionalism for that whole day. They forget that you need to be fuelled properly to do that to maintain that energy, and to maintain a good mood. It’s important when it comes to your mental state as well.

How do you handle work/life balance?

Again, supporting my system with real good food. When I was starting out, as soon as an opportunity comes up, and you get that good news, you get that huge adrenaline rush. I found that over time, I was doing three days that were really busy and a few days where everything started to settle down again. Those couple of days I had free, I used to just have a massive dip. I’d feel really tired, and I’d feel like I’d need to recover from something, and it would confuse me, because I thought, ‘this has brought so much joy, so why am I feeling tired?’ I found that keeping active, meditating, and eating really well is so important. I have to be strict with myself, because to be at your best and to perform well, you need to feel good. You need to have plenty of energy. Eating really well has helped with that.

Especially in your own work, would you say your heritage has influenced you?

You know, coming from Malta, it’s a tiny island where the industry in fashion and film is growing really slowly. Much slower than here. The approach out there on such a tiny island is they’re so positive towards everything, whatever you’re doing. I think that’s what really keeps you going, is having the support from home. Not so much the culture itself.

I’ve noticed over the years you can play lots of different nationalities and backgrounds.

I’m really lucky to be able to do that. I feel it’s a gift within me.

Being able to portray a range of

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"SOMETIMES THEY FORGET THAT YOU’RE HUMAN" nationalities is always amusing, and jumping into the mind of another and somebody from a different country and a different walk of life in general is just something that I enjoy so much. To break into the mind of another and experience the world through her views, her culture, her religious beliefs is truly exhilarating. You become equipped with so much more acceptance and understanding of people from all walks of life.

I truly love a challenge when it comes to performing. It’s important to be versatile and push yourself beyond the stereotypes out there. By playing different characters, whether I’m wearing a designer’s garment or creating a character from a script, it’s my duty to bring that to life and make it believable.

Do you have anything big coming up?

I’ve just started a production company with my partner, which is mainly to specialise in film. So, the project that I mentioned before which is something that I’ve written myself, that was one of the first projects for the company.

There’s a lot coming up, but I don’t

LONDON RUNWAY like to speak on it until it’s coming to fruition. I think, naturally, you want to go and scream to the hills when there’s any good news, big news. I’ve got to stop myself from doing that until it’s time.

How do you decide on the titles for your screenplays?

I end up brainstorming and writing a load down, and I have to be very visual with it. As long as I know the outline, what I’m writing about, the title comes later, would you believe? I think of it a lot later, after finishing the whole screenplay. I’m kind of doing everything backwards.

What’s your creative process, how do you sit down and write?

What I need is the kind of day when I’ve woken up, done some meditation, had a lovely fresh juice that’s going to boost energy, boost focus and everything, and then I burn citrusy oils. Breathe it all in, become energised, and I’ll journal for a bit. I’ll just freewrite whatever I’m feeling. Some days you wake up and you’re feeling a bit cloudy, which is probably most of the time, and I sit down and free-write. I have my journal for that. Then I go through things I’ve got to get done for the day. At the moment I’m on the second screenplay, in between going to castings and auditions.

What do you hope, if we were to meet up again in 2025, you’ll have to tell me then?

I think, for me, being wellestablished. I feel like I’ve fought violently for the past eight years, just to get to the place I’m at now.

I just feel like there’s so much more to come, there’s so much more to do, there’s so many places to go. I feel like I’ll have a lot more to tell you then!

How would you describe your personal style?

It’s very varied. I’m not really a jeans person, and I would like to be, but it’s just about finding the right pair and I never have. I always like to feel my best. I always prefer to perhaps overdress a little bit rather than come in underdressed. I like colour, and I like nice tailoring.

Some days you might want to rock leather and lace, and some days you’ll opt for something a bit safer. I don’t stick to one particular style, really.

Follow Serena’s journey at Instagram.com/serenamarija or twitter.com/serenabellaaaaa, and find her portfolio at starnow.co.uk/serenamarija

In order to write, I need images in front of me. Not necessarily to go and watch a film, but just to have an image or to see something inspires me. Sometimes if I’m quite blocked, I’ll go out and just… you could hear a bird singing or you could see a quirky person and somewhere, inspiration will come from that. I find that’s what really helps when nothing is coming to you and you just need something extra.

Images via Serena Marija; except this page: Serena Marija by Rhiannon D'Averc, 2012

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"THERE’S SO MUCH MORE TO COME, THERE’S SO MUCH MORE TO DO, THERE’S SO MANY PLACES TO GO"

Sorry I'm Different presented their latest collection at the Travel In Style event, where both human and dog fashion brands came together.

SORRY I'M DIFFERENT TRAVEL IN STYLE CATWALK AT MAHIKI IN MAYFAIR

Images via Sorry I'm Different

The S/S 19 clothes are an intense and conceptual collection inspired by social discrimination and all forms of racism. Man is born free and so must evolve, his soul must be expressed without preconceptions.

The collection is divided into two important blocks. Black & White is dominated by strong contrasts and iridescent prints illuminated by gold and silver light. The theme of contrast fascinates: the white colour symbolises life, expresses hope for the future, trust in both people and in the world, and contrasts with the decisive and deep black which is the negation of colour, the negation of future life. It is denial of reality with consequent rebellion and aggression. The concept is revealed through written text and raw images that lead us to reflect on various types of discrimination. The t-shirts tell stories of religion, of homosexuality, and faces of women contaminated by macho violence. Short bomber jackets become reversible. On one side they are dressed in technical fabrics: laser-cut faux leather in the shape of a rose to symbolise rebirth and rebellion. Behind them there are phrases that invite us to think Different, to not surrender when facing prejudices, and to learn to see differences as opinion and far from objective reality. On the other hand, the colours of peace light up and create surreal and intense contrasts.

Beautiful and light skirts in chic tulle play on the urban contrast of their denim straps.

Mix Color is characterised by the essence of women, often discriminated as inferior entities. Tshirts come to life through the faces of women and tell us stories of various countries different in their essences but united by the same colour of blood.

The sweatshirts-dress remind us that we "are our limits" our soul must open up to the world without prejudice with the desire to express our true essence: the soul needs dreams, not judgements. The shorts and short skirts in vintage American denim are coloured and customised to evolve into new shapes through important applications created by Italian artisans.

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CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE 2018: 12 DAYS OF CHRISTMAS This week Viktorija Mockute takes you through the 12 Days of Christmas with the ultimate gift guide.

1

Precious Moment Scented Candle neomorganics.com Made using 100% natural wax, this candle is hand poured using expertly blended pure essential oils to help anyone relax and unwind with the beautifully invigorating scent of Christmas.

3

Christmas Cracker - jomalone.co.uk It just would not be Christmas without crackers. With an added twist, this cracker includes the perfect selection of treats for any fragrance lover.

5

Roger la Borde Stationery rogerlaborde.com

Novelists, poets and writing enthusiasts alike can enjoy the most elegant stationery from Roger la Borde delivered to their door every two months.

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2 4

Deep Sleep Pillow Spray thisworks.com Help end sleepless nights with this pillow spray that blends notes of lavender with chamomile to aid relaxation.

Monogram Mug anthropologie.com Personalise your gift this year with a monogram mug to suit any personality. Perfect for coffee and tea lovers!

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6

Jade Facial Roller - cultbeauty.com A gift for skincare canonisers.

Perfect for those who enjoy beauty products and self care, this roller can be added to any skincare routine.

7

Luna earrings - thechalkhouse.com London-based design studio Chalk uses a variety of geometric shapes to create unique jewellery inuenced by architectural elements, everyday objects, and bold cultural patterns.Â

8

Huile prodigieuse - nuxe.com

Rich multi-purpose oil that nourishes, repairs and gives a satin feel to the skin, with a delicate scent that ensures instant relaxation. As it is suitable for all skin types, it makes a great gift for anyone.

9

Dalliance & Noble scarf dallianceandnoble.com

Prepare your friends for the cold weather with this scarf. Every design is meticulously and drawn to represent historical events, people and places. All products are printed and manufactured in England.

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10

Divine Luxury Chocolate Hamper divinechocolate.com Fulfill a chocoholic’s dream with this chocolate hamper from Divine Chocolate. Launched in 1998, Divine sells a wide range of delicious chocolate treats. The range includes a variety of dark, milk and white chocolates bars, boxed chocolates and hampers for everyone.

11

Silver Olivia Necklace aweatheredpenny.co.uk Minimalist designer Kayleigh Carter creates and sells affordable women’s jewellery which is designed to last for Weathered Penny. Each piece is easy to match with almost any outfit, making it an essential gift for those who like to accessorise.

12

Wall Art - eastendprints.co.uk Brighten up someone else’s home with a unique peace of artwork from East End Prints. They stock a wide variety of fun pieces of art at affordable prices.

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LONDON RUNWAY

STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rachel Parker

People Tree Narrow Cuff in Silver £20

Elfzhou at Lone Design Club O - Ring Clutch Bag £306

Vildnis at Lone Design Club Ivalo Dress £90

Bourgeois Boheme Kate EcoStone Shoes £170 Black and Brown at Lone Design Club Bia Metallic Waist belt £90

LONDON RUNWAY X LONE DESIGN CLUB What to wear to the London Runway Issue 30 Launch Party & Christmas Celebration

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BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE LONDON RUNWAY OPEN STUDIO DAY Candice Wu recaps the London Runway Open Studio day and takes you behind the scenes of what went down.

On the 20th of November, we held an open studio shoot day from 9am until late afternoon, and what a successful and productive day it was!

In the beautiful Kitsch Studio, we started with the open casting call. With over 30 models arriving to shoot - yes, over 30! - we had some new faces in their 50s and some not yet even in the double digits. Every model was unique and different, which made the shoot even more fun. There were also models with years of experience or some who were tackling their first ever shoot, so it was interesting to see the varied ways that each model reacted in front of the camera. Teelo Vasiliou from Frame Perfect also gave us a nice surprise visit along with some of his faces.

Rachel and Neil, our Features Editor and Music Editor, respectively, conducted the interviews, and I assisted with organizing the models and keeping track of the running order. We also had Roberta Chapman skillfully styling the twins for us in the final shoot. Lastly, we can’t forget our on-set kitty, Antonio, whose chic and photographic nature gave us and the models inspiration... but also distraction!

Everything ran smoothly, and despite the chilly weather, everybody was smiley, interactive, and professional! We can’t wait for you all to see the final products of this day’s work in future issues starting with the New Faces you can flip back to on page 31!

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Photographs via Rhiannon D'Averc, Candice Wu, and Rachel Parker

Afterward, we had a quick chat and photoshoot with the lovely Bryony (@bryonymusicuk), an up and coming recording artist in London. Look out for her interview in a future issue!

Finally, to end the day, we had an editorial shoot with William and Henry Wade (@thewadetwins_) with clothes from some exciting brands that you’ll just have to wait to find out about!

Jamming out to some MJ courtesy of the studio’s CD player, they were a pleasure to have with their constant exclamations of how well-made and high-quality the clothes were.

On the shoot, we had Rhiannon and Fil taking lead as our photographers.

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RAM HORN, POTATO SACKS, AND CHICKEN FEET Sigrun Bjork Olafsdottir tells us about the materials she uses in her collection – some of which may surprise you.

Perhaps it is because my bedtime stories as a child weren’t always fairy tales with happy endings that I design the way I do. Instead they were stories of trolls, elves, Vikings, Valkyries, gods and goddesses, and monsters! Often the stories didn’t have happy endings but they were very much a reflection on the history, culture and nature of the land I was born in and so I learned that there is life and then there is death and that there can be beauty in both. Both are children of nature.

When I started designing, I found myself questioning fabrics and materials. Up until then, I always just assumed that materials such as cotton were sustainable natural products that didn’t impact much on the environment. Since then I have had to re-think and re-adjust my thinking. Learning about fast fashion and deciding if that is a market I want to tap into was a challenge in itself. The original dream of having a collection picked by a big high street fashion house suddenly doesn’t appeal so much anymore. Instead, the idea of designing on a smaller scale but more intimately has taken root so my ambition today isn’t a flagship store in all the greatest fashion cities of the world, nor is it to have a collection picked by a high street store. Today, my ambition as a designer is to manufacture responsibly and in limited numbers for a small and patient market clothes that are truly timeless.

I started to reach out to individual tanners and farmers in the Nordic

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countries and started learning about what they were doing. Most of them are constantly looking to reduce waste and are looking to use as much as possible from the animals that are farmed or caught for food.

As a result of that, many have returned to old methods dating back to times where waste was pretty much unheard of. If you owned a horse, it was your vehicle until it died and once it died, you used every part of it that you could. The hide would be used for warmth, the tail hairs as threads, the meat was salted, dried and smoked, the bones were boiled for broth and then they were carved for various uses.

Fast forward to today and everything is about fast food, fast fashion, fast knowledge etc. Instant gratification has become the expected and in many highly developed countries, children have no understanding of where things come from or how they are made.

We stop caring for things because they are disposable.

Some people really struggle with my designs because they sometimes involve various animal produce and I agree with them to the extent that an animal should never be farmed for the sole reason to be turned into a coat. It matters greatly what kind of life an animal has and if an animal is to be killed for a purpose then that should be as cruelty free as possible, but we should then also make sure that as much as possible of that animal is used. No animal should be killed so we can use its beak and throw away the rest. What a waste of life! Animals do die every living thing does. What matters is how they are treated when they are alive and how we dispose of them. When questioning who I am and what I stand for as a

LONDON RUNWAY designer, I stand for organic, natural, no-waste and cruelty-free materials in my designs. Those are my guidelines. It is not always possible to be 100% sure if a material fulfills those guidelines but I always aim for them and am always looking for new suppliers that tick the boxes.

There is so much hypocrisy in the fast society we live in - I have seen protesters line streets screaming murder at people wearing animal products and those same people will be dressed from top to toe in polyester. The fur they are often so passionate about is a material that nature made and nature will decompose of - with little to no impact on the environment. It does leave the question of cruelty and certainly nobody should ever buy from unethical sources such as furfarms - it does however not just automatically apply - not all furs are equal. Many are obtained through sources such as individual tanners who buy hides from hunters who hunt either for food or culling and then we have many who buy hides from slaughterhouses (food byproducts), and some use roadkill etc.

The polyester they are wearing cost the environment dearly to make and will take up to 200 years for nature to dispose of. Not only that but the actual dye used to print and colour polyester is toxic to humans - so they are also poisoning themselves.

People need to get a grip. We need to start by slowing down! Stop throwing things away. Buy responsibly and for us designers, we need to source responsibly.

In my designs for my last collection I used materials that were sourced from various places, amongst them insects, feathers, fish leathers, ostrich leather, ram horn buttons, animal bones, horse hairs, nuts, vegetable fibres (potato sacks!), wool, sea shells, linen, organic cotton and silk. I also used a washed-up fisherman’s net and some old designs were recycled and given a new lease of life. Recently, I have obtained entire horse tails that have been tanned, chicken feet leather, skeletal bone buttons and more and I’m super excited to explore those. I will also be visiting my favourite tanner in Iceland and hunter in Denmark soon and am

"THERE IS SO MUCH HYPOCRISY IN THE FAST SOCIETY WE LIVE IN" super excited to see what they are doing and preserving.

It was quite interesting to have to ask a model if she was allergic to nuts because the item she was wearing contained nuts! I was looked at as if I had just arrived from outer space.

I tried to create a tiara from the skeletal remains of a salmon but as it dried, it became extremely brittle and unusable. I’ll need a larger skeleton to succeed in this creation.

This is one of the downsides to creating items from natural produce, they don’t always last very long as the oxygen decomposes them. Some of the (roadkill) bird feathers I used to make headpieces a couple of years ago can no longer be used as the feathers have become barren.

For one headpiece I made earlier this year, I had obtained 50 dead butterflies and moths and I had to learn to relax and mount them before I was able to apply them.

They are such delicate creatures that the smallest mistake will destroy it. I just about managed to use the piece for two photo shoots before they had all decomposed and returned to earth in the form of dust. I like to think that by capturing the essence of their beauty before they returned to dust, they became immortalised in a way. I should add that those butterflies died from natural causes.

What is ahead - well, I’m visiting Denmark, Scotland, Iceland, Norway and Yorkshire in the coming year and I will be searching for unique natural materials there. I have quite a fetish for wool at the moment but let’s see where this journey goes.

You can see more of Sigrun’s collections and follow her journey through its next stages at sigrun.co.uk Photography by James Alexander Lyon

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NATIONAL ASIAN WEDDING SHOW Photography by Ian Clark

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It was a bride's delight at Olympia London earlier this month, as the National Asian Wedding Show took place. The largest Asian wedding fair in Europe is now in its 13th year, and there will surely be many more.

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RIXOLLYMURS

A SLICK AND SOPHISTICATED COLLECTION FROM THE ‘TROUBLEMAKER’ Neil Dowd delves into Olly Murs’ debut collection in collaboration with River Island, talking through the collection’s highlight pieces and analysing his developing brand and its link to his fashion The worlds of music and fashion have always been closely intertwined. If you were to ask anyone in the music or fashion industry, they would agree that the way in which an artist or band choose to present themselves is vital in shaping the public's perception of them and establishing their brand.

Furthermore, many artists have opted to expand their horizons into the fashion world with their own clothing lines. Yeezy Supply, the clothing brand of American singer/rapper Kanye West, is one noteworthy example. Hoping to take his first steps into the fashion world, Olly Murs has teamed up with the designers at River Island to work on his first ever collection. It aims to encapsulate the everchanging evolution of his fashion from when he first took to our television screens in 2009, tailoring the collection to his specific tastes.

Olly Murs is a singer-songwriter, television presenter, and actor from Witham, Essex. Murs first came to national attention following his appearance on the sixth series of The X Factor in 2009, coming in second place to Joe McElderry. Since then he has released six studio albums, with his self-titled debut album selling 108,000 copies within its first

week. Each of his following albums have also been number ones. Along with his musical success, Murs is also renowned for his work in television, presenting on The Xtra Factor from 2011 to 2012 and copresenting The X Factor in 2015.

Olly was also a judge and coach on this year’s season of The Voice. Whilst Murs has undertaken many ventures across the span of his career, he is most recognised for his contributions to popular music through the years, with hits like Dance With Me Tonight, Wrapped Up and Heart Skips a Beat making him the household name he is today.

Looking back at Olly’s first appearance on The X Factor, it is interesting to note that the majority of the general public, including The X Factor’s official YouTube page, referred to him as the ‘ordinary geezer’. Whilst there are many factors contributing to Olly fitting this branded label such as his general conduct and ‘cheeky’ on-stage charisma, his clothing choices at the time visually reinforced this idea. In his audition clip, he is seen performing the Stevie Wonder track Superstition wearing a grey v-neck jumper with a black t-shirt underneath. Both of these are tucked into a pair of black, slim fit jeans revealing a brown belt, finishing the outfit with light blue slip-on canvas plimsolls and a small, black neck scarf. This choice of outfit was perfect for his first audition

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as it struck the perfect balance between taking pride in his appearance with the use of accessories and the tucked in clothing, whilst the slim-fit jeans and plimsoll shoes helped to make this outfit a very casual one.

In an Instagram live stream with Darren Kennedy entitled ‘#AnEveningWithOllyMurs’, Olly stated that the polo neck shirts were the best representation of his style during his early days. This supports the aforementioned idea as both items of clothing create a smart casual appearance, which accentuates the regular ‘geezer’ perception that people have of him.

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LONDON RUNWAY The release of this collection was organised to coincide with the release of Olly’s latest album You Know I Know. Originally intended to be a greatest hits album, Murs decided to release a double album, with the first half containing new material and the second half compiling his most well-known works from previous albums. He has stated that his cojudge on The Voice Tom Jones had a huge influence on this decision, commenting that he wanted to give more to his fans than just the older songs. During the #AnEveningWithOllyMurs live stream, Olly chose his latest single Moves featuring the American rapper Snoop Dogg as the song that best captures the essence of his collection.

Listening to the song, it is clear to see why. The thumping bass riff, the staccato, off-beat stabs from the guitar along with the ‘four on the floor’ rhythm used by the drums are the perfect combination when creating the disco inspired feel that this track possesses. The musical components, carried by Murs’ lyrical content and ear catching melodies, give this track its ‘slick and cool’ vibe, its upbeat feel making it the perfect song to dance to.

Linking these ideas back to the collection, it is clear to see that creating a collection of accessible, interchangeable,

smart-casual outfits has been the aim throughout. The outfits displayed here are exemplary for going out clubbing as they strike the perfect balance between simplistic and classy.

In one image, Olly is modelling a black polo neck long-sleeved shirt, tucked into black checkered super skinny trousers with black loafers and a black belt. The simplicity within this look lies within its lack of colour, with black being the staple colour across the entirety of the outfit, excluding the touches of grey on the trousers.

However, the tucked in shirt and loafers help to give the outfit an air of class, which is appropriate given Murs’ open admiration for the style and fashion of David Beckham.

The use of baby blue is also a strong colour story across the collection, including a blue overcoat. Similarly to the other

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overcoats on the River Island website, the coat has two front flap pockets, with button cuff detailing on the sleeves of the arms. Not only does this item conform to the smart casual theme of the collection, but the incorporation of the baby blue adds a dynamic to the line whilst using colours that are hard to find in mens clothing. The black block slim fit jumper also uses this shade of blue on the torso, supporting the symmetrical blocks of white on each shoulder in breaking up the black and bringing a fresh twist to the colour scheme. This collection does so much more than bring the Essex born kid who grew up embellishing his own clothes closer to his passion of fashion. The casual sophistication of the collection also reinforces the idea that Olly’s brand of being the ‘ordinary geezer’ is still how his fans can connect to him all of whom are bound to love what this collection has to offer.

All images via River Island

URBANUS Photography - Emily Morgan Hair and Makeup: Â Saima Malik Wardrobe: Petra Saleh and Jessica Bennett Models: Kayleigh-page Rees and Ashley Walker

Ashley wears: Long rib bomber jacket, Nyokitto raglan top, and Nyokitto trousers - Price on request, Petra Saleh

Olivia wears: Sleeveless Cotton Shirt - ÂŁ90, Suyeon Choi

Kayleigh-page wears: Coat, top, and trousers - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Above: Kayleigh-page wears: Coat, top, and trousers Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Right: Kayleigh-page wears: Long rib bomber jacket, Mesh shoulder jumper, AppliquĂŠ print t-shirt dress, and Fishnet leggings - Price on request, Petra Saleh

Ashley wears: Nyokitto bomber jacket, Nyokitto mesh sleeveless shirt, Airtec mesh trousers - Price on request, Petra Saleh Kayleigh-page wears: Coat, top, and trousers - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Kayleigh-page wears: Laser cut crop top, Geometric skort - Price on request, Petra Saleh

Kayleigh-page wears: Jumper and trousers - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Ashley wears: Overcoat - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Kayleigh-page wears: Laser cut crop top, Geometric skort - Price on request, Petra Saleh

Kayleigh-page wears: Long rib bomber jacket, Mesh shoulder jumper, AppliquĂŠ print t-shirt dress, and Fishnet leggings Price on request, Petra Saleh

Kayleigh-page wears: Coat, top, and trousers - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Above: Kayleigh-page wears: Jumper and trousers Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Right: Kayleigh-page wears: Top and skirt - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Kayleigh-page wears: Dress - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

Kayleigh-page wears: Dress - Price on request, Jessica Bennett

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NEIGHBOURHOOD VOICES: HACKNEY Candice snapped some shots of uniquely and fashionably dressed passers-by in Hackney for this issue’s neighborhood voices feature.

Delving into Hackney, you’ll notice a bit of its rural history peeking through with the Hackney Marshes.

Now, with its hipster and chic atmosphere, it has become a magnet for fashionistas, foodies, and young revolutionaries. It boasts a plethora of weekend markets, beautiful parks, and cozy cafes. With Broadway Market to the west and Victoria Park to the east, there’s plenty to do. There are also charity shops and quirky murals aplenty.

The people who frequent Hackney are equally as colourful and unique.

Listen to their voices in this buzzing neighborhood.

FREYA O’CONNOR (SUPPORT HOUSING FOR HOMELESS YOUNG WOMEN, LEEDS) @FREYA_OCONNOR What and who are your fashion inspirations?

I’d say street style and my friends are my biggest style inspiration.

What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself?

Comfort is really important to me in what I choose to wear. As long as something is comfy, I’m cool with it. I love big jumpers and baggy trousers.

I’d say moving to Manchester for uni influenced me as I still have a very student-like style.

Do you go to Hackney often? Why?

This is my first time in the area, just visiting my friend, but it’s very nice!

EVE GIOVANNA BOKOR (TEACHING ASSISTANT, LEEDS) @EVE.BOKOR What and who are your fashion inspirations?

Mac de Marco & 90's fashion.

What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself?

Where am I going (e.g work / seeing friends)? I dress plainly at work compared to what I wear on the weekends.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Do you go to Hackney often? Why?

I don't come here often, only when I visit my friend twice a year.

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ADAM FROST Rhiannon D’Averc sat down with Adam Frost, an inspiring designer from Brighton whose work definitely does not conform to the norm. With a bubbly, infectious laugh that fills the room and the ability to talk at a million miles per hour, this is one personality you’ll wish you had the chance to meet yourself.

Let’s start from the beginning – when did you first start making clothes?

I used to design clothes at school. I used to draw them in my maths books.

I was quite bullied, so I’d do drawings, and I always used to do logos. It used to be Adam Frost logos. I think I started making them at about 14. But I got a machine and then I just did this ugly, floral, patchwork-y thing. It was really fucking hideous, and now it’s a bit of a trend! I like florals, but that was hideous. I found it the other day. I think I chucked it away, even though that’s the first piece of fabric I really sewed together. I probably shouldn’t have chucked it away, but I think, fuck it.

everyone’s original in a way. You can’t remake the same person.

How would you describe the style of your clothes?

I would say they’re for anyone.

There’s not a gender or a person. I’d say it’s very LGBTQ+, but all by accident because that’s what I am.

The whole casting in my show, everyone was LGBTQ+, and anyone.

It’s for anyone and everyone. I think if you’re feeling shit, it’s nice to have glittery things, because that basically drags you out of it, if that makes sense. What was the question, describe my clothes? Arty

Then what has your journey been like from here to there?

I used to literally look at fashion, but I think everyone needs to do that. I could easily be a stylist. You can probably do other things apart from writing, do you know what I mean? It went from looking at fashion, you have to keep looking, and then you get your voice. I went through lots of vintage furry capes, like vintage Prada and stuff. Then I went through Vivienne Westwood, I was obsessed with her.

Then I discovered McQueen, then I discovered Maison Margiela. I think you see all that and you add that up, and then you cut bits out and throw up on it, and then you get your own voice.

I think nothing’s original, even Vivienne Westwood – she references vintage stuff all the time.

Who would you say is your biggest influence?

I think life, not fashion. As I’ve got older, I don’t even really look at the shows unless it’s my friend or something. I think the best inspiration is yourself, because

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INTERVIEW

farty and for everyone! Anyone could buy it. Sequins, velvet, and foil, and plastic, they’re the main key things. Eventually, if this all goes properly and it goes into a label – obviously, it’s a label already, but if it becomes a more established label – then there would be the velvet coat every season. There

"THE BEST INSPIRATION IS YOURSELF"

LONDON RUNWAY would be the shoulder padded coat every season. But then there would also be the suit… they’re very glittery, very velvet, quite regal. If you want to wear my stuff, you’d walk into the shop and everyone would be like “What the fuck are you wearing?”, you know what I mean?

You can go to Sainsburys in a plastic dress, probably. Why not?

How hungover are you right now on a scale of one to ten?

I’m not that bad, about a three or a four. I don’t feel that bad. I’m more knackered, because I was out til 5 or 6 in the morning.

You mentioned you’ve got a t-shirt line coming out?

I’ve got a t-shirt line coming out, it’s kind of coming out in pieces.

Every other week there’ll be a new product. It’s not rushed, it will be just bits and bobs. There will be badges with my face on. Not to be pretentious, but just because it’s an art photo, it looks really fun. If you’ve seen my Instagram photo, it’s that one. So I’m getting that made, and then I’m getting another badge that says ‘Arty Farty’ on it, over the top of a different artwork.

Then there will also be an ‘Arty Farty’ t-shirt, and there might be an Anal Winehouse t-shirt with a painting of my drag person on it – it will just say ‘Anal’ with a picture. I don’t know if everyone will buy that one! But then I’m also doing the sequin stuff. A really beautiful jersey with the sequins on. The t-shirts are about £35, and the sequin ones are more like £100 because they take longer to produce, they’re more custom. I’m doing that, and then on to some sort of visual art, I think. I do think my next collection – I don’t think it will be – is that John Rocha?

I think that’s John Rocha.

We’re in Soho and a large group of people is flooding the streets after a recent protest. An expensive-looking gentleman walks past who does, indeed, look like John Rocha. The sighting is unconfirmed but we are both convinced.

John Rocha just walked past, ladies and gentleman! That’s so weird. I was just saying, I want to do some music as well. Because the show I just did, I did the music myself. I made them myself on GarageBand.

If Bjork can use GarageBand when

she DJs, I can fucking use GarageBand. I want to do some music. I’m making some clothes with musicians and artists.

Anyone that you can name?

I’m doing some stuff for Arca – you could say that, I suppose! I approached Arca, it wasn’t him approached me. I approached him to make some clothing that he might want to wear on stage. I would say it is a collaboration, as weird as that sounds. Basically I messaged Arca and said, ‘I really want to make you some clothes’, and he was like ‘oh, okay!’. I don’t know whether you say he or them, by the way – I don’t know if they’re non-binary.

Basically I just said ‘I love your work, I just really want to make some clothes for you’, and then within a few hours he messaged me back. He was like ‘Yeah, let’s do it, that sounds fun!’. Basically I’m doing some costume places for him that have holes in so that when he’s on stage he can put flowers in them, and rub the mic up against the flowers. I’m also going to do a big black and white shirt with holes all over that as well. I’ve even got his measurements.

Tell me more about your drag persona.

Anal Winehouse! Yeah, so basically she’s me but a woman. I don’t consider myself a woman or trans or anything. Anal Winehouse is just my drag persona and I DJ in Hastings. I play Bjork remixes and Roisin Murphy and stuff. Graces Jones. I know it’s all performance, but I don’t really like drag performance all that much. I prefer to DJ in drag, because you can dance and drink and just play music and it’s fun. I always project visuals. It’s in the Pumpworks in Hastings – you should come sometime! I’m getting distracted by people on the street…

We discuss a few passers-by, including one notable person who may be wearing either a wig or some feathers stuck to his head; we can’t decide.

I think the thing is about London, I don’t know if you agree with me, you can come here and be lost in all the drama but also have a lovely time while you’re doing it. Then go back to Tonbridge [ed’s note: my place of residence!], and you can [relax] – you know what I mean, it’s

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nice!

Adam spots another passer-by of interest.

He’s well cute… oh my god.

LONDON RUNWAY I tend to agree on that. Let’s not look out that window anymore – there’s too much going on.

The guy I was with earlier was very cute, I was actually quite shocked I was with him. He had an amazing body, and I was just like, oh my god.

Do you ever get with someone and you’re like, fuck, how did I get with this person? Then you realise you’re not as ugly as you think you are.

And then you get confident and think you can have anyone!

And the next time it happens you’re like oh, shit. He was so into me, it was nice. Even when we woke up he was still into me, it was nice. But you know when the kisses just die out, slowly? We kissed a bit, and then there was less kissing, and then when I left we didn’t even kiss, it was just a hug. Then you think, oh, I don’t think I’m going to see him again.

Well, fingers crossed – you never know.

No, I don’t think I’m going to see him again. I told him to add me on Facebook, and he typed my name in but he didn’t add me on Facebook while I was sitting there. I think you shouldn’t chase after people if they’re not…

Right, because then if you chase them, of course they’re going to turn into a fuckboy.

They love the attention.

Then they’ll be playing hard to get…

It’s bullshit. And then you’re like, well, what did I do that for? It’s a bit shit, isn’t it?

Wow, a bit depressing.

Yeah… And another thing about fashion is, everyone who’s doing really well, they all have no money.

Everyone thinks all these celebrities have money. Pam Hogg, she’s doing so well, but every time she does an interview she always says, look, I’ve got no backing, I’ve got no money.

But then at the same time I’m like, at least you’re showing in a venue and you probably don’t even have to pay. Sometimes, you don’t even have to have money. I was at The Box last night – I haven’t got any savings, I went to The Box and I got free drinks all night, I didn’t pay for anything. My friends go there. We all get dressed up, and it was fun.

Normally I don’t like going to places

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like that. Everyone that’s there has paid thousands of pounds for booths, or £50 to get in, and then there’s all us cool kids just rocking up and getting in without even going through searches. But it’s because my friend works there. But don’t you think it’s really cringey and bullshitty how it functions? There’s a lot of arseholes. It’s all about being young and being image and shit, you know? People say it’s not, but it is.

Models are always young… I want some old grannies in my shows soon.

We’re trying to push the box with having older and younger mixed models, not just all the same.

You get some beautiful old ladies, that have stunning grey hair and it’s all natural.

It’s people that have just looked after themselves really well.

Yeah, exactly, and not done what I’m doing! Downing coffees and vodka shots. Oh, look, I’ve been to Liberty darling!

Adam is referring to someone walking by with a Liberty shopping bag.

See, I mock him, but I actually like it [laughs]. I really want to have my stuff on Dover Street Market someday. That’s one of my aims, I think. If it doesn’t happen, it doesn’t happen.

Is there a person – a celebrity or another figure – that you’d really love to dress?

Arca is one of them, actually. But also, I’d say the Adam Frost woman is like Bjork and Roisin Murphy and me at a party with all my friends.

And she’s getting really drunk and looking fabulous. That’s what Adam Frost is. But it’s also about being yourself. Roisin Murphy and Bjork are very themselves. I’ve actually met Roisin – she follows me on Instagram and I message her. I’m a bit of a fan and she knows that. I literally saw her two weeks ago. I’m in the new video, she’s done this new track. I’m in the ‘All My Dreams’ music video. We did it over two days, so in the first video of all these EPs coming out, I’m in the beginning of the video with purple hair, and I’m falling backwards.

She’s really nice, and she’s really good with her fans. We all turned up

LONDON RUNWAY she’s a proper laugh. I shouldn’t say nuts – some people get offended by that.

But that’s the other thing about fashion. It’s nice to dress people, but if Britney Spears wore my clothes, I wouldn’t really be like, ‘Wow!’. I know that sounds really stupid and pretentious but I actually don’t give a fucking shit about Britney Spears. I don’t. Obviously she was an icon, but I think she’s a bit of a dickhead. I don’t think about them as celebrities. Some of them will literally wear anyone because it’s free clothes.

to set and we were a bit nervous. She was like ‘Alright mate?’ in her Irish accent – ‘Hello darling!’ – and it was like fuck, you’re so lovely. She’s wicked. It’s really weird that I’ve met her because she’s one of my main like… if it wasn’t for music, some people wouldn’t do what they do, you know what I mean? Roisin Murphy, I listened to her through all of my teenage years. So it’s weird that I’ve met her. She knows my clothes, she’s seen my clothes. I actually gave her a shirt and she just forgot it because I think she was drunk or something! But we’ve spoken about it since then and she said, ‘I’m such a dickhead!’. It was funny.

But yeah, I want to dress Roisin Murphy and Bjork. I don’t really know who else I would like to dress.

It’s weird that Hungry has already worn my clothes, because I really love Hungry as well. To be, Bjork and Roisin Murphy aren’t really celebrities – I know they’re obviously known, but they’re not…

Roisin can pop to Sainsburys and not get hassled, she’s even said that in interviews. Whereas I feel like Bjork – I’ve heard that she’s round her in East London more than you think.

She’s lived in London for years, and then that bomb scare happened and she went and moved to Spain or something – I’m not really sure, but I saw it in a documentary about her.

I know people that have done karaoke with Bjork. She’s proper nuts and fun,

This is going to sound bad, but if I saw Little Mix wearing my clothes I’d be a bit ‘ehh’… I don’t like popular culture, I think that’s what it is. I like the side bits. It’s not real.

That band, they’re probably not even happy being in that band but they’ve all signed a contract and they can’t get out of it. If you’re with Sony Music I feel like there’s two different contracts, they’re either fucked or they’re not. I feel like Adele is on one where she can do whatever the fuck she wants. Little Mix, I feel like they’re on a different contract where they’re a bit fucked.

There’s these K-pop bands fainting and shit, and they’re with Sony Music. Justin Bieber, he threw up on stage. Never sign to Sony Music! I think it’s Sony Music, I might be wrong. But you hear about all these stories, of people throwing up and shit. They’re overworked. There’s K-pop bands where some of them literally have heart attacks when they’re 25. It’s fucking weird.

But back to your question, I think Bjork and Roisin Murphy. I also like the idea of people like Tracey Emin. I know her assistant vaguely. I don’t know if she’s seen my clothes, but she’s really close with her, so maybe she’s seen something. I’ve invited her to all my shows! Her assistant’s aware of all my stuff, and I feel like they’re really good friends. I’d love to dress her, because she always wears Vivienne Westwood. They’re arty farty people! Sarah Lucas – and I’d love to dress Grayson Perry.

Grayson Perry, Bjork, Roisin Murphy!

Is that the Holy Trinity?

Yeah, the Holy Trinity!

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Do you dress in a way that represents your brand?

I’ve realised some people that do fashion, they try and look their brand all the time. People like Bjork, she doesn’t dye her hair funny colours, it’s just natural. I used to dye my hair lilac because that’s my lining colour of my garments. It doesn’t matter what colour the garment is, my thing is that my lining is lilac. Eventually it will all be screenprinted inside as well so you can flip any garment out. You can do more with it. I see a lot of people try to dress over-hard. You’re not trying to hard, you look lovely and minimal. You know what looks good on you, and you’re all tonal – I love tonal!

Thanks! [blushing copiously] But it’s taken me until I’m 25 to realise what looks good on me, and I think that’s the same with everyone. At 25, everyone looks good. Not everyone. I don’t mean that badly, but some people just never look good.

Some people never get it.

It’s like, you can’t shop in Primark for your whole life. Go to a charity shop and get an old vintage thing.

Find out more about Adam and shop his brand at instagram.com/ADAMFROSTREALNESS Images: Photography by Imogen May Make Up by Phoebe Jacob-Epstein & assisted by Yoi Wan Visual Art by Adam Frost

"YOU CAN’T SHOP IN PRIMARK FOR YOUR WHOLE LIFE"

LONDON RUNWAY

YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice picks out the best winter coats suggested for you based on your Zodiac sign. With an emphasis on feminine silhouettes, these finds are sure to become staples in your wardrobes.

Aries March 21 - April 20

For the confident and bold Aries, this seamed boucle coat from TopShop is the perfect statementmaking piece in their winter wardrobe essentials. The eyecatching red will make passers-by double-take in admiration.

Taurus April 21 - May 21

This double-breasted, camelcolored H&M trench coat is both functional and fashionable for the timeless and practical Taurus during the colder days to come in rainy London.

Gemini May 22- June 21

With the bright and attentiongrabbing mustard yellow, this oversized faux fur coat by Na-kd is perfect for the energetic and experimental Gemini.

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Cancer June 22- July 22

Comfort is key for the sentimental and hopeless romantic Cancer, and this Asos Design cream cocoon coat is a must for the cold winter to come.

Leo July 23- August 21

Cheerful and fearless, Leos should reach for this padded mustard yellow puffer jacket from Pull & Bear to keep out the unwanted cold while still looking fabulous!

Virgo August 22- September 23

The classic and intellectual Virgo always dons the most weatherappropriate, yet still stylish, jacket, and this hooded, khaki green, wool coat with a tie-waist belt from H&M ticks all the boxes for their winter must-haves.

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Libra September 24- October 23 Harmonious and fun-loving Libra is great at balancing work and play, and what better compliments their lifestyle than this playful and chunky pink borg coat from Missguided?

Scorpio October 24- November 22 The decisive and put-together Scorpio always know what their next outfit will be, and this faux-fur lined, leather biker jacket at Topshop will definitely become a habitual piece.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22

Vibrant and adventurous Sagittarius will find it hard to pry themselves away from this maroon, zip-up puffer coat from Urban Outfitters.

The bright red-lined inner layer adds that bit of fun this traveller sign is known for.

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LONDON RUNWAY

Capricorn December 23- January 20

The sophisticated and ambitious Capricorn knows that this Monki checkered grey tailored coat will set them in the right mindset for success.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 This unique teal-coloured, fluffy, corduroy puffer jacket is befitting of the self-loving and trendsetting Aquarius. Their “no shits given� attitudes makes them the perfect sign to pull off this loud Urban Outfitters piece.

Pisces For the intuitive and artistic dreamer, Pisces will feel at home in this beaded, oversized denim jacket from ASOS Design. With the patterned, printed back, their creativity will be overflowing in all forms in this winter staple.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

All images via respective retailers

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LONDON RUNWAY

HOUSE OF IKONS We bring you a look at the final part of the House of iKons showcase, following on from last issue's coverage. Here's how the finale unfolded.

Photography by Rabi Sultan

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THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered “Stretchy jeans and a nice shirt for every season – not too formal, not too sloppy” – Kennet Robertsen, Model

“Dressing gown!” – Oxana Tailor, Mortgage Broker

“All Adam Frost: a black sequinned turtleneck, beautifully made. A really nice fake leather coat, because I don’t like to use animal products in my fashion. A nice biker jacket style painted leather coat, and some nice skinny jeans, and creepers” – Adam Frost, designer

“My PJs!” – Naeem, model

“A FLUFFY GOWN” – NORMAN BUSIGU, MODEL “I would wear dungarees” – Stacie Smith, makeup artist and wig technician

“Definitely PJs!!!” - Katelyn, model

“A jumpsuit!! With trainers and a black jacket” - Freya O'Connor, support housing for young homeless women

“I love streetwear, so trackies and a hoodie with a t-shirt (because comfy)” – Kai, student

“PEAKY BLINDERS ATTIRE ALL THE WAY” – JARED REHAL, RETAIL MANAGER

“It would probably be a coat, I don’t know what kind though. I love coats, I have an entire rail of coats. It would probably be a long coat. Another part of me would just like to wear a big tulle dress all year, but then I’d freeze” – Rebekah Roy, stylist

“My PJs” – Saima Malik, makeup artist

“IF I COULD CUSTOMISE IT, A BLACK JUMPSUIT. COMFY AND PRACTICAL” – BAM, MODEL “RED DRESS!” – ANNA GILDER, MILLINER

“High heels, skirt with a nice shirt, blazer – not just black, maybe colourful” – Ewa, Miss London City 2018

“A turtleneck definitely!” – Andrei Lucas, blogger

"Black cord dungarees and a red long sleeved top" - Eve Bokor, teaching assistant in reception

“A maxi dress and flip flops. I think I’d love to float around all day! But maybe not in the UK! It’s too cold for that” – Stephanie Harber, Hairstylist/Mentor

“MY FLUFFY DRESSING GOWN” – SOPHIA MARIA, MODEL AND ACTRESS

“POLO NECK JUMPER AND HIGH WAISTED SKINNIES” – NATASHA MOBEY, MILLINER

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LONDON RUNWAY

CONTACTS ADAM FROST - instagram.com/adamfrostrealness BIG GROOVE RECORDS - patreon.com/biggrooverecords CANDICE WU - instagram.com/candice_x9 CARA BALEN - twitter.com/balencara CRAIG HAMMOND - eldredgrove.com DYELOG PR - dyelog.co.uk EMILY MORGAN - instagram.com/emilygrace_morgan/ ELDRED GROVE - eldredgrove.com FIL MAZZARINO - cyclopevideo.com HOUSE OF IKONS - houseofikons.com IAN CLARK - photobyian.com IF? LIFESTYLES - iflifestyles.com IMOGEN MAY CLEVERLEY - instagram.com/imogenmayc JOANNA CUNNINGHAM - twitter.com/iswrebecca LONDON EDGE - londonedge.com LONE DESIGN CLUB - lonedesignclub.com NATIONAL ASIAN WEDDING SHOW - nationalasianweddingshow.co.uk PATREON - patreon.com/londonrunway RABI SULTAN - roamingpixel.com RACHEL PARKER - twitter.com/rachelfrances_ RHIANNON D'AVERC - pcistudio.co.uk SERENA MARIJA - instagram.com/serenamarija SIGRUN BJORK OLAFSDOTTIR - sigrun.com SORRY I'M DIFFERENT - sorry-imdifferent.com STYLIST LIVE - live.stylist.co.uk

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LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk patreon.com/londonrunway instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk Front cover: Ashley Williams and Kayleigh-page Rees by Emily Morgan Back cover: House of iKons by Rabi Sultan