INTERVIEW WITH SARAH REGENSBURGER . BEADSMITH STEFANIA IUCCI . YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH MAKEUP
PRIVATE POLICY . ALEX MULLINS . PRONOUNCE . ICEBERG . EDWARD CRUTCHLEY . OLIVER SPENCER
ISSUE 33 2ND FEBRUARY 2019
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino - shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Features Editor: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Neil Dowd - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Writer - Joanna Cunningham Graphic Design: Alex Panek, Melina Hadjiargyrou - design@londonrunway.co.uk Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Martin David Edwards, Sarah Regensburger, John-Charles Warner, Nikita Cindy Niles, Wiktoria Deero, Linda Blissett, Asa Nygards, Zahra Ahmed, Jessica Moreno, Amina Nuuh Special thanks to Valeria Aleksandrova, Sarah Regensburger, Stefania Iucci, Steven Weiss, Surgery PR, and our quote sources
Want to work with us? London Runway is currently open for internships for: Graphic designer Arts Editor News Editor Contact info@londonrunway.co.uk with your CV and covering letter
Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Pixart Printing and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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EDITOR'S LETTER The season is heating up, and we can really feel it coming. It's with hands shaking in anticipation that we introduce you to our last issue before LFW - which feels, somehow, extremely important. The movement for change, for something new and exciting, has been gathering steam and pace for several seasons. Will this be the one where it all finally explodes? We're getting a little ahead of ourselves, though, so let's take a deep breath and enjoy the shows that came before. We're sharing lots of great designs from London Fashion Week Men's again this issue, including such notable names as Oliver Spencer and Edward Crutchley. We've also got some really interesting content that might make you think about something new. Starting with our feature on Stefania Iucci, a beadsmith who makes stunning jewellery and clothing with beadwork detailing. Her work was good enough to win her the title of Battle of the Beadsmith 2018, and
we're so pleased to be able to share her gorgeous creations as well as the effort and inspiration that goes into them. Next time you see a beaded couture gown, you might think of Stefania - and spare a thought for the hands of the men and women who sew these pieces manually. We're also looking into leather alternatives with designer Sarah Regensburger, who has settled on the pineapple as her source of cruelty-free material. Read on for a full interview about her process and ethics, accompanying the editorial from which our cover shot was taken. W'e're also exploring vintage shops and the art of thrifting, and how it might be something that could transform your wardrobe. If you've never tried it for yourself, you will certainly be asking why after you've read Candice Wu's piece on the matter.
are filling YouTube with new tracks and videos. If some of these picks don't break out into the mainstream with record deals soon, we'll be very surprised. Finally, we're also examining the complicated relationship that we women often have with makeup. With a thought spared for the way men are also affected by stereotypes around cosmetics, writer Joanna Cunningham has gathered sources across a spectrum of ages to find out how the pressure to look good really affects us. There's plenty more to feast your eyes on, so don't wait around here. Go on, get reading - and even as you do, we'll be working on a killer fashion week issue that's not to be missed! Catch it on the 23rd February. Enjoy!
There's also plenty of new music to explore with our Music Editor's selection of the best musicians who
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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CONTENTS
19 VISUALS Private Policy Backstage
47 WORDS
7
Alex Mullins Backstage
12
Savage (cover editorial)
19
Pronounce
34
New Faces
41
Chema Diaz
58
Art School
64
Fashion News
4
Women's Relationship with Makeup
16
Interview: Sarah Regensburger
30
Stefania Iucci: Battle of the Beadsmith Winner 2018
47
Behind the Thrifting and Vintage Trend
69
89
Liam Hodges
72
Five YouTube Musicians To Watch in 2019
Style (Conscious) Guide
78
Your Style Horoscope
106
Edward Crutchley
79
The Big Question
118
Iceberg
83
Beatitude (editorial)
95
Neighbourhood Voices: Soho
102
Oliver Spencer
110
Jacket Required
115
LONDON RUNWAY
As the UK suffers its greatest political crisis of this generation, The British Fashion Council (BFC) and Creative Industries Federation (CIF) are among many British businesses that have united in their call for a second Brexit referendum.
“We are facing a national emergency; the politicians have failed to show they have concern to protect jobs in fashion or any other UK industry. A people’s vote needs to be called,” said fashion critic Sarah Mower.
repercussions” that a no-deal Brexit would have on this growing and highly lucrative industry, urging alternative political action. The CFI supports this, contending that creative industries are the fastest growing part of the British economy, employing 9% of the population. As highlighted within the BFC’s statement, the British fashion industry is worth £32 billion (almost the amount the UK is set to lose already through the EU-exit payment fee) and is just one example of a British industry wholly reliant on free and easy relationships with, and movement across, Europe. CIF’s chief executive, Alan Bishop, underlined the importance of “our ability attract talent, tour freely, and trade on our doorstep”. These organisations have admitted that a second vote delays resolution, but a no-deal Brexit “would have catastrophic consequences for the [creative] sector.”
In response to May’s defeat, the BFC quickly released a statement stressing the “unthinkable
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NEWS via Pixabay
BY MADDY COFFEY
Following the historical Parliamentary defeat against May’s negotiated Brexit deal (432 votes to 202) and the overruling of Corbyn’s subsequent ‘no-confidence’ motion, the terms of Brexit remain unclear. British industries, who have grown increasingly alarmed at the insecurities of a no-deal exit, are calling time on government attempts at a Brexit resolution and instead wish to bring it back to the British people.
FASHION
BFC AND CIF BACK A PEOPLE’S VOTE AS BRITAIN’S CREATIVE INDUSTRIES FEAR A NO-DEAL BREXIT
LONDON RUNWAY
FASHION
SUSTAINABILITY MATTERS TO CFDA
BY SONIA FANTON
NEWS
via Unsplash
January saw the birth of the CFDA Sustainability Initiatives Resource Hub. The directory, available online and easily accessible to everyone, provides an extensive guidebook. Everything is covered from the concept of sustainability itself, to how to create an ethical company, roadmaps and strategies for a sustainable future, how to design, source and process ecofriendly materials, packaging and so on. Our daily choices in terms of “what to wear” are having an impact on a global scale. With fashion being one of the major polluting industries in the world, and constantly increasing awareness about global warming and climate change, the CFDA understands that the time has come to put words into actions.
America has decided to appoint 2019 as the year for a tangible change and provide the community with a tool aimed at making the fashion industry more sustainable, starting by educating students, designers and professionals on the subject. Sustainability is an issue that can no longer be ignored, and there’s no excuse to do so. It’s up to us to do our part to make it real and stop the climate change. As the largest fashion market in the world commits to making a change, it will be that much easier for us as consumers to follow along and begin to look more towards longterm statement pieces rather than fast fashion items that are discarded after a single season.
The United States currently holds the largest apparel market in the world. It’s no coincidence that the Council of Fashion Designers of
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LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON PREPARES FOR FASHION WEEK Following on from London Edge and Pure London, the main LFW shows will commence on the 15th February and run through to the 19th. The BFC has published a full schedule of the official show list on their website at londonfashionweek.com. More than 5,000 people are expected to attend the shows, ranging from celebrities and influencers to members of the press and buyers. It is estimated that around ÂŁ100 million will be spent on orders placed during and directly after the shows. Gayeon Lee is set to open the season with a presentation, followed by a number of big names throughout the week. These include Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Westwood, and Burberry to list just a few.
Off-schedule, there is also plenty of excitement from indie and emerging designers making their mark on the fashion scene. Some of the most exciting collections will be seen at Fashion Scout and On|Off, collectives with a history of choosing some of the most promising young designers to showcase their labels. For fashion fans without industry connections, there's little chance of getting a pass to any of the shows. However, there is still some opportunity to take part in the spectacle when the London Fashion Week: Insiders event begins. It allows members of the public to purchase tickets to shopping events and fashion parties, as well as getting the chance to purchase exclusive items designed specifically for ticket holders. There will also be talks with big fashion names, on the 16th and 17th February.
FASHION
The capital is preparing for fashion week, as trade shows begin and retailers gear up for the influx of fashionistas.
NEWS BY RHIANNON D'AVERC
Via Pixabay
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PRIVATE POLICY
BACKSTAGE
Photography by Martin David Edwards
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Last issue we brought you some of the backstage shots from London Fashion Week Men's, and we're continuing this issue with shots from the Private Policy show. Models wore bucket hats fitted with chains, tailored shirts, casual knits, and a strong combination of urban streetwear against more traditional or formal pieces. Checks and stripes provided a common thread through some of the collection, returning again and again in different forms.
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LONDON RUNWAY
ALEX MULLINS BACKSTAGE
How bright do you want your brights? Alex Mullins dials them up to 11 in his latest LFWM collection. Acidic yellows and pinks stand out against more neutral colours.
Oversized tailored coats and jackets cosy up against sweaters and scarves for a collection that is sure to beat the January weather. Both male and female models took to the catwalk, as was the case with the majority of LFWM shows.
These shots from behind the scenes in the backstage area take you through the preparation of the models, as they are dressed and made up, and stand ready to go out in front of the audience.
Photography by Martin David Edwards
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LONDON RUNWAY
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WOMEN’S RELATIONSHIP WITH MAKEUP Joanna Cunningham explores how modern women of all ages feel when they wear makeup, and whether our society has affected our thoughts on looks and beauty. Makeup has been a part of society since the ancient Egyptians reigned, around 7000 years ago. From dramatic Cleopatra-esque eyeliner before the Roman Empire began, to the white-faced Georgians of more recent centuries, makeup is everywhere and always has been. Although these long-gone times may seem too far in the past to even comprehend, they go to show how important looking good has always been. Historically, makeup was for the wealthy, who constantly had to dress to impress to create a lavish image of themselves. Nowadays, though, makeup is a little different. It’s become a lot more accessible, so everybody can wear it - rich or poor, old or young, male or female. It really is engrained within the fabric of all modern societies. When we look back at those historical times of old, this obsession with how we look seems completely normal to us. It’s what we’re used to. That being said, with the invention of social media in recent decades, has makeup become an unhealthy tool, making people feel inadequate in their own skin? Take myself, for example - I’m fair skinned, with fair eyelashes and eyebrows, but ever since I reached the age of around 11, I felt uncomfortable going anywhere without mascara on. It seems almost unbelievable that, at such a young age, I already felt embarrassed by my complexion, as though everybody would stare at me if I went without it. Upon interviewing thirteen women, a number of them, including Hannah (29) and Izzy (19), agreed that they couldn’t live without mascara due to their fairer eyelashes. This is actually the one item that the majority of our
interviewees said they couldn’t live without, so it seems that thicker, blacker eyelashes are important to a lot of people. With this in mind, we have to question the psychological impact that makeup has on the women of today. Do they feel inadequate in their own skin because of the expectations makeup has left on us? After interviewing a number of women, of all ages, I wasn’t shocked to hear that a lot of them felt selfconscious to leave the house without a dash of their go-to makeup item. I also wasn’t shocked to hear that most women felt they would look unprofessional if they weren’t wearing makeup in their workplace. Although this is the case, it seems that many women do enjoy applying and experimenting with makeup, especially with new eyeshadow looks. Izzy even likened makeup to art, and I have to agree with her there: makeup has become a way of expressing oneself through a creative medium. Instead of painting on a canvas, people are painting their faces. There’s nothing wrong with that! In this way, our obsession with looking good and following makeup
All images via Pixabay
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tutorials and trends has opened many avenues for women and men to take on a hobby and a career in something they adore. This is the beauty of the beauty industry - it provides people with common thought and, in this way, we can certainly see the benefits of how it has shaped our society. That being said, we have to assess the elephant in the room: the way social media thrusts makeup products in our faces as “musthaves” to change our appearance. This inherent need to change the way we look is so apparent when we take on board the reasons many of these ladies had for wearing makeup. Some of these reasons included hiding imperfections (Jayne, 47), feeling less selfconscious about their acne (Sophy, 23), to make themselves feel less bare (Hayley, 47), a pressure to look good all the time (Dawn, 47), an armour for social events and to make themselves look older (Hannah), or, in other cases, to make themselves look younger and more attractive (Maria, 50). With this huge list of reasons to wear makeup, it really makes us wonder whether we’ve taken it too far - is it healthy to want to change our appearance to feel more
LONDON RUNWAY comfortable? Almost every woman I interviewed said that social media had impacted them in some way, shape or form. There were the more inspired reasons, such as Micha (20) and Ffion (19), who said that social media had shaped the way they applied their makeup, providing them with ideas on how to change up their looks. This is certainly one of the more positive ways that social media has affected our society, as there are constantly new ways to get creative. On the other end of this spectrum, there were a number of women who felt that social media, particularly Instagram, had made them feel selfconscious about the way they look. This tended to be the younger women, like Chloe (21), who said that if she saw more women online without makeup, she would feel more confident to follow their lead. Izzy also said that it can be difficult when you see effortlessly pretty women splashed across your timeline. This is so true, and when we are subjected to makeup wipe adverts wherein the women “take off their makeup” but are clearly still wearing it, this does get a little ridiculous. However, herself and Naomi (21) both agreed that they take these images with a pinch of salt.
Nowadays, we are privy to the tactics that women use to make themselves appear more stereotypically attractive online. Nipping and tucking their bodies, as well as widening their hips and breasts, and whitening their teeth is pretty commonplace. Although we hear time and time again that we should just ignore it, it can be difficult. It truly does take extraordinary women, like Jameela Jamil on her social media accounts, to make a stand for all women of today. It’s definitely an ongoing battle, so another question we have to ask our society is whether the expectations on women are different to that of men? Picture this: you walk into an interview for a standard desk job and aren’t hired, despite the fact that you’re clearly qualified for the job. What went wrong? Well, you might be surprised to know that some men, even those in the younger generation, would still turn away a woman if she wasn’t wearing heels and makeup to an interview. I know, it’s unbelievable, but this is something Ffion (19) overheard a young man saying during a university seminar. He made this statement, meanwhile claiming it would be acceptable for him to rock up in jeans and an undone shirt. It really is appalling that, even during this enlightened age, there are still men with this misogynistic view on women. Yes, looking smart is a great way to get a job, but why should wearing heels and makeup have anything to do with this? If I were to
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turn up wearing flat sandals, minimal make up, and a smart outfit, why should this affect my opportunities? The short answer is, it shouldn’t. Of course, this is certainly an extreme case, and only one of our thirteen women mentioned anything like this occurring. However, there were still a good few of our interviewees who agreed that the expectations on women in the workplace were definitely different to that on men. With that in mind, a number of our women also commented on backwards views of the way men are also “supposed” to look. In our society, there can often be a connotation between men looking groomed and being gay. This is, naturally, absurd, and a number of our interviewees, like Amy (25) and Micha, agreed that grooming was seen as much more of a feminine task within our society. Dawn advocates for her husband as a great example of this, as he would perhaps feel a little less “masculine” if he spent too long looking in the mirror each day. This just goes to show how the social expectations placed on people are not isolated to women alone; men have been tailored to feel the opposite and may feel as though they’ll be mocked by their friends if they take too much pride in their appearance. Although this may be true for some, some of our interviewees said that
LONDON RUNWAY
the men they know definitely worry about the way they look just as much as women. Patricia (75) says that, when she was working back in the day, all of her male friends would glance at their reflections in the shop windows, just as the women did. So perhaps this idea of femininity in grooming is not as ingrained as we might have thought. Hayley does note that, in 2017, the male grooming industry was valued at a whopping $50 billion! That’s an enormous figure, and advocates the idea that grooming is for everyone. We have to remember, though, that men are not expected to slap their faces with makeup to look their “best”. This begs the question, which we’ve asked time and time again, does today’s society have a healthy relationship with makeup? Many people, especially in the younger generations, feel that experimenting with makeup is a way to express themselves, and I would totally agree with this. I absolutely love experimenting with eyeshadow, and I own loads of palettes for the job. But, when it gets to the stage where people aren’t feeling comfortable leaving the house without makeup, unless they are performing menial tasks like collecting their weekly shop, is this too much? I would admit that I fit within the group of people who have an unhealthy relationship with makeup; I enjoy applying it most
days, but I would feel self-conscious without a dab of mascara on the daily. This is where we need to see changes from big companies, to make women feel more comfortable in their own skin. Perhaps this is something we can all get involved in ourselves, as it seems unlikely that the businesses most profiting from the use of makeup will make a stand. So, even if it’s just a small compliment here and there to a
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friend or family member who’s not wearing makeup, they may really appreciate it. Don’t underestimate the power of kind words.
You can keep up to date with Joanna’s work on her blog, itstartedwithrebecca.wordpress. com, or follow @joannamc97 on Instagram and Twitter.
SAVAGE Photography - Martin David Edwards - @storiesbymartin Makeup: Wiktoria Deero - @wiktoria.deero Wardrobe: Sarah Regensburger - @thesavage_fashion Model: John- Charles Warner - @joncharles101 and Nikita Cindy Niles - @nyxcin
John-Charles wears: Lace Headcover - £49, and Velour Knitted Dress - £599, both The Savage; Shoes - Dr Martens This page and facing: Nikita wears: Lace Allover Catsuit - £399, The Savage; Shoes - Dr Martens
Above: Nikita wears: Savage Tee - £35, The Savage; Jeans - Levis
Right: John-Charles wears: Savage Tee - £35, The Savage; Jeans - Levis
Top left: Nikita wears: Houndstooth Blazer - £899, Houndstooth Leggings - £149, and Pineapple Leaf Choker - £39, all The Savage; jeans - Levis John-Charles wears: Wide Houndstooth Pant - £349, The Savage; Shoes - Dr Martens Bottom left: Nikita wears: White Soft Hair Jumper - £299, and Pineapple Leaf Vest - £999, both The Savage; jeans - Levis; Shoes - Dr Martens Below: John-Charles wears: Houndstooth Cardigan £399, and Pineapple Leaf Belt - £99, both The Savage; Jeans - Levis; Shoes - Dr Martens
Nikita wears: Red Soft Hair Jumper - £349, and Red Bow Pant - £499, both The Savage; Shoes - Dr Martens
John-Charles wears: Red Oversized Cardigan - ÂŁ299, The Savage; Jeans Levis; Shoes - Dr Martens
John-Charles wears: Wolf Fake Fur Jacket - £1599, and Pineapple Leaf Choker - £39, both The Savage; Jeans - Levis; Shoes - Dr Martens
Nikita wears: Dragon Pineapple Jacket - ÂŁ1299 - The Savage; Jeans - Levis; Shoes - Dr Martens
John-Charles wears: Black Soft Hair Jumper - £399, and Pineapple Leaf Belt- £99, both The Savage; Jeans - Levis
Top left: Nikita wears: Houndstooth Top - £125, and Houndstooth Leggings - £149, both The Savage John-Charles wears: Houndstooth Cardigan - £399, and Pineapple Leaf Belt - £99, both The Savage; Jeans Levis; Shoes - Dr Martens Bottom left: Nikita wears: Houndstooth Top - £125, and Houndstooth Leggings - £149, both The Savage; Shoes Dr Martens
Below: John-Charles wears: Wide Houndstooth Pant - £349, The Savage; Shoes - Dr Martens
Above: Nikita wears: Lace Allover Catsuit - £399, The Savage
Right: Nikita wears: Houndstooth Blazer - £899, Houndstooth Leggings - £149, and Pineapple Leaf Choker - £39, all The Savage; jeans - Levis
LONDON RUNWAY
SARAH REGENSBURGER INTERVIEW
Rhiannon D’Averc sat down with Sarah Regensburger, a designer whose pieces stood out to us at the recent Hackney Fashion Wick show (Issue 31). Here, she tells us all about the pineapple leather she uses to make her vegan-friendly range, her background as a designer, and her plans for the future of her brand, The Savage. Photography throughout by Martin David Edwards
now! [laughs] But I just felt like, my clothes, I can’t use leather and fur just because I don’t want to support that anymore. So, I decided to do a vegan collection. It’s quite new still but I really feel that it’s the future of fashion, and I personally stand behind that lifestyle, so I just personally feel that it’s the right thing to do. I found some options, like leather made out of pineapple. I think that’s really cool, because it’s
Could you introduce who are and what you do? I’m Sarah, 27 years old. I was born and grew up in Germany, in a smaller town – not small, but smaller. I studied in Munich in an international school and also did an exchange to Beijing, which was quite cool. I always love to travel, which is still a main inspiration for me. Then, actually, I worked for Adidas for four years as a designer. At one point, I was like, okay, you know what? I want to make my dreams come true before it’s too late. Because, I’m 27, but then what if you’re like, I’m 30, 35, and then you want to have kids, whatever – you need to do it now. So I quit my job and moved to London, which was quite a thing! And of course my dream is to have my own label. I participated in some fashion shows in Germany, as well. Then here, I participated in Hackney, which was pretty cool! I just moved to London in September, so it’s quite new. I just decided to do my own thing. It went quite well. So now I did Hackney Fashion Wick, and there are more things to come – I’m really excited! [laughs] Personally, I have to say, I used fur and leather before, because I always felt that it looks quite nice. But then one year ago I started being vegetarian, and now I’m trying to be vegan. Let’s say I’m 80% vegan
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"I WANT TO MAKE MY DREAMS COME TRUE BEFORE IT’S TOO LATE" not plastic, which is also not really environmentally-friendly. So, yeah, I think it’s quite cool. I just changed completely to vegan fashion now.
LONDON RUNWAY Amazing – so how did you even find out about the possibility of using pineapple leather? As simple as it sounds, I Googled it! I looked for plant-based leather. I mean, it wasn’t that easy, because there are a lot of options. But they’re not developed so far. I kind of liked the pineapple, so when I saw it, I knew I wanted to use it. I contacted them, and they also have an office in London. I just met them, and ordered some material, and I’m really happy with it because it looks quite like leather. If you asked someone, is this leather? They would think it’s leather. They would never get that it’s made out of pineapple. When did you first realise that you wanted to be a designer? I liked to draw a lot in the past, but I wouldn’t say I knew I was drawing to be a designer. But then when I was growing up I was always into fashion – my mum, she had a shop with kids and womenswear clothes. She always took me to fashion agencies to order, and so I was always into fashion. Then when I was 12 or something, when you kind of have a different vision for life, I was like, I want to be a designer. There was no other way for me – I didn’t want to do anything else. My dad was quite against it! But I still did it. I studied. You kind of know whether you’re good at it or not, and I feel that if you’re not
good at it, maybe you should do something else. But I felt it was the right thing. I felt immediately it was the right thing. My dad now likes it as well! [laughs]
What was it like working with Adidas?
It was good. I learned a lot of things. I feel like in uni, you don’t really learn the business side of fashion. It’s quite a business. Even if you do couture, it’s still a business. I learned a lot about production, and how it works in a big company, so it was quite interesting. I just feel like I learned a lot in my time there. I started in womenswear and then
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did kidswear, which was kind of cool because you see how it works in kidswear – it’s much more complicated. Really? Yeah, it’s kid safety, manuals that are 100 pages long! I felt like I learned a lot about materials, printing techniques, which helps you if you know those things. Even if you do high fashion, it still helps you to have this knowledge, which I gained at Adidas. Why did you call your brand ‘The Savage’? Actually, it was such a weird thing! [laughs] When I did my final collection…. I’ve always been a lot into tribes and nature, my inspiration is coming from nature, tribes, culture, and humans. In my first collection I did at uni, I called it ‘the urban tribe’. I was just thinking, okay, what can I call my brand? Because I’ve still always been inspired by brands. So then there was ‘The Savage’, which is kind of a white tribe. We use it a lot these days, also for music and so on. But at that time I just saw it meant white tribes. So that’s why I ended up with this name. I feel like it’s kind of a wide name, fitting my whole collection. What kind of person do you think would wear your collection? I would personally think it’s more for stars. The more complicated
LONDON RUNWAY pieces – it’s for Rihanna, Lady Gaga, someone with fancy style. It’s quite difficult to reach them! But I see my clothes more at the red carpet, when you just don’t want to wear a classic dress. Maybe it’s a catsuit, or, you know, something like that. Or, of course, people who are super into high fashion and would just style it however they want – more crazy!
romantic. I still think it’s beautiful, but maybe different to what someone else would think is beautiful. I like to style it quite sexy, especially for the girls, but in a good way – still strong. I’m always inspired by strong women, so I want to show that as well in my aesthetic. I try to influence it from tribes in different areas.
Is there one particular person you’d love to dress? I think it would be Rihanna. I like her style. She’s very into this provocative stuff. My things, if you style them in a specific way, could be the same.
In the future, where would you like to take the brand? Of course, I want to be a bit more in stores and agencies. I just started, but this is now the next point. I would absolutely love for some stars to wear my stuff. I don’t know how I can do that, but let’s see! [laughs] And just to spread out a bit more. I love catwalks. I think my things don’t look as good on a hanger than on the catwalk. I feel like when it’s just hanging, it doesn’t look as good. So I would still keep the runway shows.
What attracted you to being vegetarian and now vegan? It started when my dad read a book. He said it’s not good to eat meat, and so he stopped. I was like, okay, cool, maybe I should try this as well? Literally, it was that reason! But now, since I started, I really feel that it’s more healthy for myself, as well as I think it’s better of course for the environment and for the animals. I just started like this, and then I just felt comfortable. I want to keep that. Can you tell me about your process of designing? Honestly, I’m inspired by everything. So the problem is, I can’t really tell where I got the specific inspiration from! But I get inspired, and then I have this idea. I always think about a catwalk when I design, or just how someone looks in my clothes. I experienced if I think too much, it will never come out the way I started. Sometimes, I’m sitting there thinking, how can I do that? Especially if I don’t have enough fabric. And then I’m sketching – I love to sketch, as well. But if I sketch and I do the garment afterwards, it always looks a bit different. So, naturally, for me it’s just sitting in front of the sewing machine or in front of my mannequin, draping something. Just to start doing something with my hands. That’s actually how I end up doing my clothes. I have the idea during the process. The process is the way, in my case! What’s your aesthetic for your clothes? It’s quite dark. I think it’s also very
Do you have any shows coming up? I think Hackney, they are still thinking about a next edition. I am participating at Expo, where they have something for independent designers. I don’t know how that will be, but let’s see. Pretty sure it will be cool. Then, if everything worked out with my package – which I’ve been really stressed about the last few days – there’s a vegan fashion week in LA. My stuff is in the US, but let’s see if it works out, and I’ll be there as well. It’s really exciting, because it’s the first vegan fashion week.
Hopefully we can have one over here soon as well! Yeah!
So actually, what was it that attracted you to live in London? Oh my god. When I was 12, I came with my dad to London for the first time. I don’t know why, but I had always wanted to go to London. I mean, I was 12 years old, so I started when I was 11 – ‘Dad, can we go to London?’ He was travelling a lot, and I think that’s why I have that as well. So, then, we came to London when I was 12 and I just fell in love with the city. Absolutely in love. I knew I wanted to live here. We did
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"WE CAME TO LONDON... AND I JUST FELL IN LOVE WITH THE CITY. ABSOLUTELY IN LOVE" some trips to London with Adidas, and I just didn’t want to go back. You know, when you feel you want to stay here? I don’t know why.
Have you noticed anything different now you live here – some realities kicking in, maybe? Yeah… definitely! When you come here for a holiday, you have money! When you have to pay an extremely high rent, and then need to live, and still want to have your own label… but this is the only more negative side of London. You need money to have a good life in London. But everything starts a bit more hard, and hopefully, I’m going to sell my things. The good side is, I feel like there is much more support on the fashion side. In my home town, there is nothing for fashion designers. I feel like, if people believe in you, they help each other out. It’s much more team bonding, and everybody wants it, and everybody does it, and I think that’s really cool. I experienced one more negative, one more positive thing!
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Have you done any further local collaboration since Hackney Fashion Wick? Not that much, because as I said, I just started. But I have a really close relationship with the guys from Hackney Wick. We work on things together. I’m living in Stratford, so it’s right next to Hackney Wick, so I could still join! [laughs] It’s just the other side of the park! I really loved it. I think that is so good, it’s just amazing.
classic patterns also in punk fashion. But I’m not so sure how I want to do this, this is my first idea. I have a couple! [laughs] But this is what I’m thinking. I’m still in the process. I know what garments I’m going to do, I just need to find the direction.
See more garments from The Savage and order your own from the collection at sarahregensburger.co.uk, or follow on Instagram @thesavage_fashion.
Tell me about your love of travel and how that inspires your work. My travel is quite important to me, for my collection. I travelled a lot these past years and I just love how people dress themselves. I feel like it’s in my brain and then I’m putting it into my collection. In a very different way, but still I have this influence in my mind. Because my first collection I did was Africaninspired, by the Maasai. I was literally in Africa right before. I really like that approach, to get inspired by different cultures and to be influenced. For example, in my last collection I did houndstooth, which is a really traditional pattern. I didn’t use it very traditionally. I kind of like to get influenced by those things, but then use my own style. To mix it up and do whatever I feel like doing! My collection inspired by African culture, if you don’t know, probably you wouldn’t see it at first sight. But that’s what I like, it will keep you more curious. So I always have this influence. I grew up with two cultures as well, and now I’m in London, so there’s even more!
Do you have your eye on any cultures you might base a collection around soon? Yeah, I’m quite into Scottish, dark fairy tales. I think the next collection will be quite romantic as well. Because my stuff is quite punkinspired, so I’m trying to get a twist that is very romantic and dark and traditional, and then punk.
That’s a very punk thing in the first place, isn’t it? Taking tradition and then ripping it up. Yes, true. And then you can see
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"I WANT TO BE A DESIGNER. THERE WAS NO OTHER WAY FOR ME – I DIDN’T WANT TO DO ANYTHING ELSE"
PRONOUNCE
Sketch-inspired lines were a big theme at the Pronounce show, along with a muted colour palette combined with flashes of neon brights. Creating interesting shapes on the body and giving a cartoonish style to some pieces, this certainly made the show stand out amongst the LFWM crowd. The intriguing tailoring choices also made this a collection that has a lot more to offer with the second look than the first impression.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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NEW FACE Name: Victoria Polozova Age: 24 Location: London Agency: Frame Perfect
What would surprise people to know about you? The fact that I have a son surprises people.
How long have you been modelling for? It’s been less than one year.
What are your modelling ambitions? Modelling is more of a hobby for me. I’m enjoying my time doing it so it’s not so much about where it leads me and more that I just keep enjoying it.
Where are you from originally? Originally I come from Ukraine, but I moved to London six years ago. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?
I play the violin. I’ve been playing for 18 years.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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NEW FACE Name: Pauline Brown Age: 57 Location: East Ham, London Agency: CHV
What would surprise people to know about you? That I’m doing modelling [laughs].
How long have you been modelling for? A few months.
What are your modelling ambitions? I'm happy that I’m able to do it at all. I’m the type of person that doesn’t like to be put in a box so I’m just sort of going with the flow with it.
Where are you from originally? I was born and bred in West Yorkshire. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I don’t know about unusual. The only thing I do at parties is get out my guitar.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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NEW FACE Name: Kamil Stan Age: 30 Location: Battersea, South London Agency: Frame Perfect
What would surprise people to know about you? I’m actually a geek. I love computers and I’m really into software engineering.
How long have you been modelling for? On and off for about a year but I’m becoming more active with it so I’m hoping it picks up.
What are your modelling ambitions? I would love to be on the cover of GQ. I would love to work with designers like Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford. I see myself doing a lot of editorial stuff.
Where are you from originally? I’m originally from Poland. I’ve been in the UK for 11 years now. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Balancing a bottle of champagne on my head.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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STEFANIA IUCCI: BATTLE OF THE BEADSMITH WINNER 2018 The Battle of the Beadsmith was started by Steven Weiss, owner of bead and tool supply company Beadsmith. He says, "The Battle Of The Beadsmith was an idea I came up with in 2012 to both promote our company, and bring attention to some of the amazing beadwork/Jewellery designers I had met through my experiences. The BOTB has no prize. The artists create something really for the personal satisfaction that comes back to them from other like-minded artists." Stefania Iucci, an Italian jewellery maker, has been announced as the winner of the annual competition for 2018. Her amazing work has dazzled fans and other contestants since 2014. Each piece is made only during the time alloted for the duration of the contest, showcasing Stefania’s immense creativity and skill at working under pressure. She takes us through some of her past entries, starting with her most recent winning piece, to explain her inspiration and process.
BOTB 2018: NAME: ALEGRÍA I believe that all forms of art are connected to each other and must coexist in a combination that feeds and inspires. Music, poetry, dance, painting, writing, fashion, jewelry, nature itself, all together, but only the latter is superior to the others. I love to mix different forms of art, but also different techniques within my creations, that's why my ALEGRÍA started from the creation of craft cabochons in polymer clay made by myself and other elements like lacquered metal drops and cups. The flowers are made of peyote from one of my patterns. So, for my fourth participation in this stimulating contest, "ALEGRÍA" is born: beads, music, dance! The "flamenco" is one of the most intense expressions of art. Born in Andalusia (Spain) at the end of '700
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not as a form of entertainment, but as a need for expression of their emotions. Flamenco is the physical manifestation of joy, sadness, sweetness, passion. Its movements and expression speak of the Spanish character: sensual, seductive, cheerful, creative, impetuous, warm, proud, energetic...
with an intense look expressing joy, sometimes thoughtful and deep. Ingenuity and sensuality at the same time, character and sweetness, within a benevolent nature. ALEGRÍA is how I see life!
ALEGRÍA was born thinking of a beautiful girl, with her black hair gathered and a rose among it, with red and fleshy lips, sometimes
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TECHNIQUES: cabochon polymer clay technique, bead weaving, fabric bead embroidery, macrame. SIZE OF THE PIECE: height 90 cm, width 90 cm. TIME TO COMPLETE: about 300 hours. PHOTOGRAPHER: Fotografi Bianchi; Stefania Iucci POST-PRODUCTION: Laura Ciranna MODEL: Gloria Rubeo PRICE: € 1.300,00
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BOTB 2016: NAME: SHERAZADE (AND LOVE TRIUMPHS) One Thousand And One Nights is a famous collection of tales (of Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Indian and Persian origin), created in the tenth century, of various historical and geographical settings, composed by different authors. It is focused on Shahriyar, the Persian king, who having been betrayed by one of his wives, systematically kills his brides after the wedding night. One day Sherazade, the eldest daughter of the grand vizier, decided to volunteer as a bride to the sovereign, having devised a plan to appease the wrath of the man against the female gender. So, the beautiful and smart girl, in order to stop the slaughter and avoid being killed herself, carries out her plan: every evening she would tell the king a story, postponing the finale
to the next day. It goes on like that for"One Thousand and One Nights" and in the end the king, having fallen in love with her beauty, grace, elegance, culture and intelligence, spares her life! Some of the stories told by Sherazade have become very popular, especially "Aladdin's Wonderful Lamp" and "Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves". This narrative device of "narration inside the narration", which still has in the One Thousand and One Nights one of its most illustrious cases, is by some compared to that of "theatre inside the theatre".
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TECHNIQUES: fabric bead embroidery, soutache. SIZE OF THE PIECE: height 90 cm, width 96 cm. TIME TO COMPLETE: about 360 hours. PHOTOGRAPHER: Vittorio Palma; Stefania Iucci POST PRODUCTION: Laura Ciranna MODEL: Alina Osiyik, Alessandro Scafati; Stefania Iucci PRICE: €1.800,00
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BOTB 2015: NAME: BECAUSE I'M HIPPY (PEACE-LOVE-FREEDOM) We seek peace in the setting sun, or in the cloud that timidly covers it. We search ourself in a drop of dew, or in the millions drops of a lake. We search freedom between the leaves of a willow, or in all the blades of grass of a lawn. We seek protection in a rag doll… Because life is in the smile of a child, or in the wisdom of his innocence. For love is inside a flower, or in the hair of a beautiful girl. We search joy in the notes that freely fly, or in the dance of the needle and beads! TECHNIQUES: fabric embroidery, beads embroidery, soutache, peyote stitch. SIZE OF THE PIECE: height 120 cm, width 50 cm. TIME TO COMPLETE: about 250 hours. PHOTOGRAPHER: Francesco Scipioni; Stefania Iucci MODEL: Martina Di Cola, Emma Di Filippo, Stefania Iucci, Edoardo Luce PRICE: € 900,00
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CHEMA DIAZ Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
A fabulous evening awaited us at the Chema Diaz show, where the audience was almost as interesting to look at as the collection. There was no standing on ceremony here a packed room whooped and cheered as the models passed by, reserving particular volume for the scantilyclad men who writhed and posed. Some even touched or reserved special gestures for members of the front row as they passed by. The collection itself draws on a number of inspirations, from Spanish traditional culture to the reality of being a young, gay immigrant in London. Taking historically conservative symbols such as bullfighting and the colours of the Spanish flag, Diaz subverts these notions and brings them kicking and screaming into the LGBTQ+ scene, via BDSM and rave culture.
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ART SCHOOL Photography by Fil Mazzarino
The very name of this brand may conjure up an idea of amateurism, but it's through young graduates that we often see the most exciting and interesting ideas. That was certainly something that rang true to the Art School show, with flashes of gem tones against black and a mix of textures. Strategic rips also gave a punk feel to the collection as a whole. Using models who don't fit the usual catwalk mould was a refreshing touch, as diverse looks strutted the runway in front of an amused audience. This was a staging that provided plenty to talk about, from pink beards to drag to plus-size looks.
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BEHIND THE THRIFTING AND VINTAGE TREND Candice Wu goes to a Vintage Kilo Sale in Hackney, picking up some unique pieces and conversing with the equally unique shoppers.
Thrifting and vintage shopping is always an adventure because you never know what you’ll chance upon. From branded activewear and glamorous fur coats to antique or quirky additions, there is something for everyone, and the often used or donated pieces are carefully curated together and resold at a far more affordable price point. There are tonnes of sales, events, and shops throughout the year in London for thrifting and vintage shopping. Stores such as Rockit Vintage in Shoreditch are open multiple days a week offering vintage finds and eclectic pieces. East End Thrift Store is also one to note with their monthly pound sales. There are even online vintage shops, such as Tigon Vintage on Depop or Etsy, where you can grab
clothing at a bargain price! For this particular event, it was a Vintage Kilo Clothing Sale. It occurs almost every week over the span of the weekend. At the beautiful York Hall in Bethnal Green, one only had to pay a small entrance fee of no more than £3 to access all of the goodies. For every kilo of clothes bought, it would only cost £15. Some events don’t charge an entrance fee while some charge per item, so each one is different yet still worth it to attend. There’s always a misconception about thrifting and vintage shopping that the quality of the second-hand or repurposed clothing is either terrible, dirty, or outdated. As with any form of shopping, you just need to keep an open mind and put in the effort to find the pieces that pique your interest. The quality of the pieces might not compare to brand new or original items from a retailer, or they might
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be even better quality. It really depends, but there are definitely good pieces that were either well taken care of or loved by the previous owners. There is also more history behind the second-hand or repurposed items that are apparent in the feel of the worn-out fabric or aesthetics. The variety and diversity of the selection available to you is much greater than a traditional store or retailer. One can essentially find all that they need in one location in half the amount of time it would take them going from store to store. I was able to pick up five completely different items for only £26 all in one location within an hour. There are no restrictions or requirements in regards to vintage shopping or thrifting, so the inclusive nature draws in different types of people, as well as the clothing. Besides my own thoughts, here are ten different opinions from shoppers at the event on vintage shopping.
1. Brandon Smith (Graphic Designer): “[I go] just to find really interesting stuff. It’s also quite cheap because you can get like a denim jacket for under £15 if it’s under a kilo. It’s just to find really interesting and unique items, really.” 2. Jamilah Harris (Brand Asset Manager): “It’s better for the planet. I love vintage fashion. It allows me to have a more unique style because you can find things that people aren’t going to be wearing.”
epaired from vintage shops. There’s good vintage shops in Brussels, lots of good ones.” 4. Louis Bachiller (Student): “It’s normally cheaper than going to buy brand new stuff, and I like the old vintage look." 5. Phillipa (Costume Assistant/Supervisor): “You can always find good things, like period things, and, as well, contemporary
3. Louise Johnson (Early Years Educator): “You can always find something that’s different from everybody else. You don’t have what everybody else is wearing, and it’s not fast fashion. It’s recycling and saving the planet. I think I only bought one new thing last year, apart from, obviously, underwear and all of that, but it was a bamboo dress from an ethical company. Everything else, I’ve sewn and Brussels, lots of good ones.”
field or whatever. There are also unique colours that you don’t tend to get on the High Streets or even in the high-end ranges. There’s a lot of interesting shades and tones of colours that are unusual to the eye for this period of time, and there are always pieces that I like to include in my films. There are also interesting cuts and shapes -period pieces but then also don’t look so obviously period that you can then incorporate into a contemporary film that gives it a real shift of uniqueness to the character and story as well.” 7. Sam (General Manager of Postproduction): “[Thrifting is] cheaper!” 8. Muhamed Badjie (Student): “It’s normally less expensive than normal clothing, and it kind of looks better. It has its own little niche and style, so I like that.” 9. Koki Ogawa (Student): “[I like it] because it’s cheap.”
things that are already worn out, which for our profession is quite important because it makes so much more real when you create a character. And, when you thrift shop, usually you find items that have some quirkiness to it. There’s always something different about them whether it’s the textures or the prints and the cuts, so it’s quite a good place to find stock.” 6. Holly (Costume Designer): “When you come to somewhere like this, it’s a hotspot for such a range of pieces that you can sometimes spend days and days trying to track down across a regular charity shop
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10. Martha Reese (Student): “I like finding unique pieces to put into my outfits, so that’s why I do it.” You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
LIAM HODGES Photography by Fil Mazzarino
Walking through a pastel rainbowhued tunnel, models dressed in the same tones as the arches above their heads impressed at the Liam Hodges show. Tie-dye and patchwork were major influences, with clothes broken up into multiple sections through colour-blocking or textured panels. The collection has a strange feeling of nostalgia mixed with futurism, a blend that feels almost alien. Eyewear and makeup choices added to this impression, with one sloganemblazoned shirt warning us that the Martians are, indeed, on their way.
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rachel Parker
B. Lip & Cheek Tint in Just A Kiss £6.99
Made Large Capped Hoop Earrings £25
Nobody's Child Red Bella Floral Frill Button Front Dress £28
Made Teardrop Horn Pendant £30
Will's Vegan Shoes Quarter Length Boots £79
H&M Long denim jacket £39.99
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EDWARD CRUTCHLEY Photography by Fil Mazzarino
Civilised, chic gentlemen and ladies from what seemed to be a number of different cultural influences walked the runway at Edward Crutchley. There was an overall impression of being in attendance at a stately Victorian home, where everyone is relaxed in their loungewear and yet still impressively smart. Whether he's been watching too much Poirot or not, Crutchley presented a muted collection of soft greys, greens, and beige tones. Accented just right with certain redsoled shoes, the looks veered almost towards the costume when paired with interesting hats - though overall remained elegant and poised.
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ICEBERG Iceberg presented a collection that was unmistakably, absolutely, and categorically Iceberg. Preferring to run to their own beat rather than following the trends of others, the show brought the now-familiar panel blocking, knitwear, quirky cartoon references, and primary colours that we expect from the label. Predictable? Yes. Boring? Not in the least. It's refreshing to see a brand that holds so strongly to its identity, such that their clothes are recognisable anywhere. This season was a little louder and wilder than the last, with clashing patterns presented on particularly noisy coats. The 80s-influenced jackets, headbands, and joggers remain a strong facet of the looks.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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FIVE YOUTUBE MUSICIANS TO WATCH IN 2019 There are few platforms as effective for cutting through the noise of the music industry and reaching your audience than YouTube. With household names like Shawn Mendes, Five Seconds of Summer and even Justin Bieber each partly owing their success to the platform’s reach, Neil Dowd is here with his top five YouTubers to keep an eye on in 2019. The music industry is one of the hardest industries to break and with millions upon millions of musicians aiming to make a name for themselves in an already overpopulated, highly competitive field, it can be argued that the road to success has never been harder. With ever-growing advancements in technology and a widespread engagement with social media, having a strong online presence has become paramount for achieving success. However, there seems to be a stigma when it comes YouTube musicians, with some people discrediting their musical ability and regarding their endeavours as nothing more than vanity projects. In order to oppose this idea, I have compiled a list of some of my personal favourite musical YouTubers, to shed some light onto the great work they do.
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1.DODIE Dorothy Miranda Clark is an English singer-songwriter and YouTuber better known by her stage name Dodie. Starting her main channel doddleoddle in 2011, Dodie began uploading both original songs and cover songs whilst using her side channel doddlevloggle for posting vlogs. She is instantly recognisable for her ukulele and piano playing, accompanied by her soothing yet impassioned vocal style and folkinspired harmonies. In addition to this, the multi-instrumentalist is also fluent on the guitar and frequently vlogs her experimentation with new instruments such as the double bass. Dodie has uploaded over 160 videos, received over 200 million views and earned over 1.7 million subscribers. Despite the fact that she is an unsigned artist, two of Dodie’s EPs, Intertwined and You, charted at 35 and 6 in the official UK Albums Chart respectively. However, it is not only Clark’s musical abilities that make her worthy of remark. The artist also uses her secondary channel ‘doddlevloggle’ to portray herself in a consistently authentic light. Through the discussion of her own personal experiences, Clark has been able to start conversations regarding mental health, sexuality, feminism and body positivity amongst her audience, many of whom are at the formative years of adolescence. Her third EP Human was released on January the 18th, with the title track featuring Tom Walker. For any indie-pop fans with a love for mellifluous vocal harmonies and delicately crafted, hauntingly visceral lyrical content, Dodie is definitely worth a listen.
254 M VIEWS 1.7 M SUBSCRIBERS
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2.WALWIN When it comes to the music world, there’s not a lot that Arthur René Walwin doesn’t do. Along with posting both cover songs and original music to his YouTube channel under the artist name WALWIN, Arthur is also a established producer, session musician and songwriter and has recently began putting his camera skills to work, freelancing in photography and recording music videos. Arthur first began uploading to YouTube just under ten years ago, with a series of acoustic guitar and vocal covers of various alternative rock songs recorded in his bedroom on a static camera. As the years went on he began releasing pop punk renditions of successfully charting pop songs with some reaching over 100,000 views. During this time, WALWIN was also uploading original songs such as This Feels Like Summer and even had his track All For You featured on BBC Radio 1’s Introducing show in 2014. Along with his successes as an artist and producer, Arthur has also worked as a session musician, briefly stepping in as session guitarist for As It Is in 2017 and Emma Blackery in 2016. This involved supporting Busted and playing renowned arenas across the country, including the O2 Arena which is certainly an impressive accomplishment. Since then, WALWIN has developed stylistically as an artist. Whilst still remaining very active in the poppunk and alternative scene with his production work, WALWIN’s own music has drifted towards a more pop and R&B driven sound, working closely alongside fellow producer Kidneko. WALWIN made his return to performing live on the 25th of January at The Slaughtered Lamb and I cannot wait to see more from him.
12 K VIEWS 1.3 M SUBSCRIBERS
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3.CRAZY EIGHTY EIGHT My next choice is a musical project with origins unlike any other that I know. Crazy Eighty Eight are a three-piece post-hardcore band made up entirely of current and former YouTubers. On lead vocals we have Lauren Babic, whom is renowned for her cover song videos of post-hardcore/ progressive metal bands such as Issues and Periphery. Jarrod Alonge shows his more serious side taking on the duties of lead guitarist and backing vocalist, differing heavily from the comedy sketches and parody bands that can be found in the content on his channel. Finally, we have the former YouTuber and current frontman of As It Is, Patty Walters, on the bass guitar. The band originally started off as a collaboration between Alonge and Babic. However, what makes this
project so enticing is that the members of the band hadn’t even met during the earliest days of the collaboration and even released an EP without even meeting in person. As the project began to increase in popularity, the band set up a Kickstarter page in early 2018 in order to fund them meeting and recording their debut album. Burning Alive is the band’s debut album and was released in December 2018. With Walters living in the United Kingdom and both Alonge and Babic living in the United States, the future of this project is unclear. But I, along with many other fans, will be patiently anticipating this band's future endeavours. Find their videos on Jarrod Alonge's page.
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4.LEADLEY Bethan Leadley has gone through some drastic stylistic changes to reach her current sound. Starting YouTube in 2011 under the username musicalbethan, Bethan began uploading videos of her performing her own original songs. During this time her music was centred around the acoustic singer-songwriter genre, with the main instrumentation for her songs being an acoustic guitar. She released her first album Unrequited Love on that same year. It wasn’t until after her 2014 single Day Affair that Bethan’s sound began to drift towards a more pop-rock inspired sound with her EP New Kinda New in 2014 and Inside Her Head in 2015. Her 2015 single Fall For You was accompanied by a montage-styled music video wherein popular YouTubers such as Dodie Clark, Orla Gartland and The Midnight Beast each individually filmed themselves lip-synching to the song. However, another drastic stylistic change later and Bethan has once again completely rebranded herself, adopting her surname Leadley as her artist name. She first showcased her alternative-pop sound with the leading single of her self-titled EP Like I Did. Both the track itself and the music video show a massive leap in quality for Bethan and her Spotify streaming statistics definitely reflect that. According to her Instagram updates, Leadley is constantly writing new music and I can’t help but hope that they will be hitting our speakers in 2019.
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5.ROB SCALLON 267 M VIEWS 1.5 M SUBSCRIBERS
My fifth and final choice is a YouTuber much different from my other choices. The multi-instrumentalist Rob Scallon began uploading YouTube videos 11 years ago, uploading his own original instrumental music. Scallon shows a great deal of innovation on his channel. In his most popular videos to date, he can be seen doing a range of musically based challenges. Whether it’s making banjo or ukulele based renditions of popular metal songs by the likes of Slipknot and Slayer or writing songs on the guitar only using one fret, Scallon can always be seen warping the idea of what being a musician on YouTube is. Throughout the years, his original brand of content has allowed him to be able to build up a strong following of 1.5 million subscribers, with his most viewed videos gaining 10 million views. Whether metal is your cup of tea or not, Scallon’s channel is definitely worth checking out, just for the level of musicianship alone and it’ll be exciting to see what he brings to the YouTube community in 2019.
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Photography -Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino Wardrobe: Linda Blissett @linda_blissett Models: Asa Nygards - @asa.nygards; Zahra Ahmed MUA: Jessica Moreno - @caffeine13 HMUA: Amina Nuuh - @aminanuuh
Dresses throughout by Linda Blissett. Prices on request
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NEIGHBOURHOOD VOICES: SOHO Candice ventures into Soho for this issue’s neighborhood voices.
LGBTQ+ friendly, hipster and fashionista friendly, and (definitely) foodie-friendly, Soho in West London is just an overall great place for everybody to chill and hang out in. As a major entertainment district, one can spend entire days in Soho and still discover exciting nooks and crannies. The theatre scene and nightlife, such as the Windmill theatre and the Marquee Club, are notorious, and chic and cozy cafes and restaurants decorate every corner. Originally also a fashion district for the aristocrats, its streets are still graced by fashionable people today. See and hear their voices in this diverse and eclectic neighborhood.
EMMA BURSTON (SUPPORT PERSON, CANADA)
What and who are your fashion inspirations? I can’t say I’m very conscious of my fashion specific inspirations. I know I’m drawn towards certain items at different times, likely as a result of industry influences, but I couldn’t name anyone or -thing in particular. I do like to focus on recycling clothing; purging my closet and donating items in order to renew, and buying secondhand whenever possible. What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? Does the neighbourhood or where you are from affect what you decide on? First and foremost, warmth! Oddly enough, coming from Canada has not resulted in my skin becoming any thicker to the cold, and I am very invested in keeping cosy. I wear a lot of layers and like to balance length and texture among them. Do you come to Soho often? Why? I enjoy wandering when I visit a city with no real destination but have been fortunate enough to frequent Soho for trips to the theatre.
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BELLA DUNNE (STUDENT, SOUTHWEST LONDON)
What and who are your fashion inspirations? Most of my clothes are from charity shops. I don’t really know what my fashion inspiration is. I like a lot of textures and velvets, like tapestry looking fabrics. What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? Does the neighbourhood or where you are from affect what you decide on? Where I grew up, everybody dressed kind of same, so I feel like that was kind of a good thing for me because I decided that I didn’t want to dress like everybody else. Yeah, I just kind of found my own style by going to charity shops and putting stuff together. I just didn’t really get why everybody was dressing up the same. Do you come to Soho often? Why? I work in a fabric shop and go to uni around here. I’m studying print design at the London College of Fashion, so I’m very fabric based.
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PAOLA HAMAME (SOAS GRADUATE, SYRIA AND BULGARIA) What and who are your fashion inspirations? I get inspired by everything and anything from photos of Instagram influencers I follow to the wallpaper pattern in a coffee shop I visit for the first time. At the moment, I am a big fan of looks where you use various shades of the same colour. What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? Does the neighbourhood or where you are from affect what you decide on? I do choose my outfit of the day depending on the area where I’ll be going. I believe that in big vibrant cities such as London, so culturally diverse and technologically advanced, the urban space inevitably influences people’s fashion sense in a big way. I also think of the things I’ll be doing and try to stay as comfortable as possible. Do you come to Soho often? Why? I do come often to Charing Cross Road as it links between many of my favourite spots in Central.
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What and who are your fashion inspirations? I call myself the last turkey in the shop in terms of the way I buy clothes, which is the clothes and fashion that men particularly leave behind. So, I like things that men, otherwise, would not embrace, but actually, in creating my own fashion brand, I’m interested in unisex workwear that you can dress up or dress down as the context requires. I’m also very big on colour, as you might have noticed, and I’m going through a hat phase! All the way through my life, I’ve gone through various phases: boots phase, belts phase, and currently, a hat phase. I’m currently obsessed with the brand Child of the Jago by Joseph Corré, son of Vivienne Westwood. He’s done kind of an amazing, sort of, pirate brand.
JAMES SCROGGS (FOUNDER OF M.C.OVERALLS - MCOVERALLS.COM/ SOHO, LONDON)
What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? Does the neighbourhood or where you are from affect what you decide on? A little bit. I’ve always regarded myself as a sort of Soho kid. So, the first time I ever moved to London at the age of 22, I became very focused on Soho as a sort of destination, and I’m now 47 and Soho is still my manor as I regard it. And, scratch the surface of Soho, there’s a flamboyance about it, which I think is very exciting, because it’s a melting pot of old school culture, sort of which is a little seedy and gentrified, kind of cosmopolitan and quite international. Slam it together, and you get something quite interesting.
Do you come to Soho often? Why? Come here every day. I don’t live here, but I come here everyday.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice puts together a style guide that keeps you warm on the inside and outside for this issue’s style horoscope.
The snow is coming! With that in mind, here are some warm gloves to warm up your hands while they hold a warm cuppa all based on your sign’s characteristics. The options will hopefully match to a “tea,” all puns intended.
Aries
March 21 - April 20 With these brown and red fingerless mitten flapped gloves from From the Source to match, this dark and spice-infused New Assam Chai by Postcard Teas (black tea with notes of Cinnamon, Ginger, Clove, Green Cardamom) harmoniously blended together is perfect for the resolute and determined Aries.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Some practical touchscreen burgundy gloves by ASOS paired with a mellow cup of Milky Oolong tea by The Tea House will keep this hardworking sign calm and productive throughout the year.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Twinning’s Berry Blush tea with notes of rosehip and hibiscus and other delightful berries perfectly suit this uplifting sign. Pair this colorful cuppa with these wool white, fingerless gloves from From the Source.
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Cancer June 22- July 22
This calming Chamomile tea by Good & Proper Tea and these striped mittens by People Tree suits this comfort-loving sign.
Leo July 23- August 21
This Cranberry and Orange Tea by Twinnings is a nice exotic blend, similar to this sign. With these velvet mittens by Dents, this sign will get the best of both worlds of sweet indulgence and luxury.
Virgo August 22- September 23
As perfectionists, this sign will appreciate a nice cup of Matcha tea by Teanamu that will cleanse their bodies and minds to help them reach their full capabilities. With these Hobbs Mia Leather Gloves, they’ll be checking things off their to-do list in style.
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Libra September 24- October 23 A playful tea for a playful sign! This Mango Lily Flowering Tea by The Tea House perfectly represents the work-play balanced Libra sign. Pair with these Toadstool Mittens by Sea Salt Cornwall.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 This charismatic yet warm-hearted sign pairs beautifully with this fruity, yet brisk Darjeeling tea by The East India Company London. Complete the Scorpio aesthetics with these black suede and leather gloves by H&M.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
Fruity blends, such as this guava, mango, and passionfruit tea by The Tea House, are perfect for a Sagittarius, who is always up for something new. These durable Mountain Mittens by Travelling Basket will come in handy for any of this sign’s wild adventures!
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
With subtle butty notes of brown rice, this YAME GENMAICHA by Postcard Teas will keep the ambitious Capricorn focused and centered. Pair with these Ally Bee Eco Cashmerino Cuff Gloves to warm the hands while keeping the fingers nimble for essay writing or other works to be done.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 These forward-facing signs will be bubbling with excitement over this innovative Camellia Vanilla Flowering Tea by The Tea House. Donning these unique, fingerless turquoise mittens by Janie’s Hand Knits on Etsy will also compliment these trendsetting signs.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
These dreamer signs need all the sleep they can get and a nice cup of Chamomile, Vanilla, and Manuka Honey tea by Pukka will do just the trick. These fingerless, merino wool gloves by Valentina Karellas on Etsy will be perfect for when their creative spirit is on high and they need to quickly jot down some notes or play a tune on a guitar.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers
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OLIVER SPENCER Images via Surgery PR
Dark neutrals wrestled with gemtone blue and mustard yellow in the latest Oliver Spencer collection. A blend of smart streetwear and casual officewear gave way to full evening regalia in soft velvet suits of deep green. Always composed, the Oliver Spencer man took a serious approach to this season. No frivolous selfies or spontaneity here, but rather a certain dependability.
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JACKET REQUIRED Lucky enough to snag some press tickets, Candice attends Jacket Required 2019 at the Old Truman Brewery. Jacket Required took place on the 23rd and 24th of January in the Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane. Exclusive to buyers and press only, its a premium trade show featuring contemporary brands of menswear and womenswear. A lot of winter apparel, such as puffer jackets, flannels, and fleece jumpers, as well as leather goods were on display. Ranging from apparel to lifestyle products, the international line-up was carefully curated to showcase the best. If you missed the event, here are some photos taken of the event.
Photography by Candice Wu
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION
We asked, you answered
WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE CHILDHOOD FILM OR BOOK?
&
“My favourite film would have to be Gladiator” – Pauline Brown, model
“The Jungle Book”
“The movie Grease”
– Christa, model
– Lamya Alsamra, designer
“Forrest Gump”
– Jared Rehal, Practice Manager
“I really love the Harry Potter books. As for childhood film, this is hard [laughs]. I guess when I was younger the first Step Up film” - Robin Dobler, model
“THE LITTLE PRINCE” – Barrie the War Dog, Professional Heart Melter
"The Lion King" – Anne, full-time uni student and Bartender
“Matilda, the story made me fall in love with books. The message ‘knowledge is power’ was clear but as a child I believed that if I read enough books I’d get the same powers lol”
“Anything by Jacqueline Wilson and then for a film I’d probably say Coraline” – Kiara Viera, model
“THE DREAM MERCHANT” – Miles Lucien, actor/model
“All time favourite book The Melancholy Death of Oyster Boy and Other Stories by Tim Burton, has always made me chuckle!” – Bam, model
– Bilqees Rashid, Talent Acquisition Coordinator/Photographer
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk Front cover: Nikita and John-Charles wearing The Savage by Martin David Edwards Back cover: Backstage at LFW by Ian Clark
