SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES . WHY TRADE SHOWS ARE IMPORTANT . DIGITAL FASHION . MARY QUANT AT THE V&A
PURE LONDON . LONDON EDGE . LONDON BRIDAL FASHION WEEK . ILARIA LEPORE . LONDON COLLECTIVE HUB
ISSUE 37 27TH APRIL 2019
THE TRADE SHOW ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino Staff Stylist: Melina Hadjiargyrou Features Editor: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk News Editor: Madeleine Coffey - news@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Neil Dowd - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Arts Editor: Marie Formeaux - arts@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Writer - Joanna Cunningham Staff Illustrator - Joe Bailey Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Nikol Konstantinidou, Reich PĂŠrez, Louisa Kazig Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Olivia Jackson, Paul Winstone, Huma Tahir, Karolina Kalska, Joanna Borov, Judith Willis, Jose Graca, Liva Salina, Ilaria Lepore, Roseanne Shekinah, Leonardo Faria, Cristiana Ramos, and Rabi Sultan
Special thanks to our growing team and new members!
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd Buy prints copies in London: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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EDITOR'S LETTER This issue we’re bringing you a trade show special, all about the events which have taken place over the last couple of months and gathering them in one place for you. Trade events are an essential part of the UK’s fashion industry – I’ll leave you to read our feature article on just why that is. They’re also very enjoyable, as you will understand from looking through the shots we have to share here. The catwalks often feature a broad range of brands from different niches and styles, no matter how specific the trade show may be. Just look at London Edge, the alternative fashion fair which puts retro sundresses on the runway alongside gothic corsets and modern rock and roll looks. Without trade shows, pop-ups, and other similar collective events, we wouldn’t have met many of the
brands that have ended up gracing our front covers and editorials. That’s why we are always excited to see what’s new when the trade show season comes around, whether we are staying at home in London or travelling further afield to Birmingham, Manchester, or Liverpool. Anyway, you’ll get to share in that excitement as you flip through this issue – so let me tell you about what else is on the cards. As always we have a couple of stunning editorials, as well as some interesting articles on topics from sustainable materials, to the role fashion plays in creating a particular TV character, to looking better in selfies.
recent trends in sustainable materials, which will be super helpful if you're worried about the impact your clothes are having on the environment. We're looking, too, at how fashion is going digital in a very unexpected way. If you’re an aspiring model, don’t miss the casting report from our Face of London Runway 2019 competition. Want to be in on the next event? Make sure that you head to londonrunway.co.uk and sign up for our mailing list, so you’ll be informed about every big announcement we have to make. Enjoy,
We’ve also been visiting the Mary Quant exhibit at the V&A, so you have the lowdown on what to expect if you make the trip yourself. Then there's information about the
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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CONTENTS
81 VISUALS
21 WORDS
Pure London Main Stage
7
Fashion News
4
Joanna (editorial)
21
Killing the Fashion Game in Fashion Eve
17
New Faces
29
#londonrunwaystyle
37
London Edge 1
38
London Bridal Fashion Week
49
Style (Conscious) Guide: Best Dressed Wedding Guest
65
Pure Futures
69
Wilderness (cover editorial)
81
The Digital Fashion Revolution 27 Mary Just Wanna Have Fun
45
The Rise of Sustainable Textiles
63
7 Little Changes That Will Make a Big Difference to Your Selfies
66
Why Trade Shows are Important for the Fashion Industry
78
Neighbourhood Voices: Leake Street Arches Graffiti Tunnels
88
Win!
80
London Edge 2
97
Your Style Horoscope
93
Pure Origin
104
Face of London Runway 2019 Casting Report
109
Fashion Collective Hub
113 The Big Question
118
LONDON RUNWAY
FASHION INDUSTRY LEADERS HELP NOTRE-DAME On April 15, a devastating fire destroyed the roof and spire of the iconic Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris. Considered one of the first examples of French Gothic architecture, the 850-year-old cathedral is one of France’s most famous and beloved landmarks, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors each day. Soon after the blaze, French President Emmanuel Macron announced an international fundraising campaign to raise money to rebuild the historic landmark, pledging full reconstruction to be completed within five years.
The fire services managed to save the landmark’s bell towers and structure of the building, but the roof was “ravaged”, with roughly two thirds having been destroyed, according to fire-service commander Jean-Claude Galler’s report on the night of the fire. According to Laurent Nunez, deputy minister of the cathedral's interior, a meeting of experts and national architects took place the morning after to consider whether the building was stable, and plans could be put into action.
Pinault announced that he will pay through his family’s investment firm, Artemis, and hopes the funds will help church officials “completely rebuild Notre-Dame.”
images via Wikimedia Commons
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NEWS BY MADELEINE COFFEY
Francois-Henri Pinault, CEO and chairman of Kering, the international luxury goods company, donated €100m to the fund. Bernard Arnault, CEO and chairman of LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy), a French multinational luxury goods conglomerate, pledged €200m.
Similarly, Arnault said in a statement, “The Arnault family and the LVMH group would like to show their solidarity at this time of national tragedy and are joining up to help rebuild this extraordinary cathedral, which is a symbol of France, its heritage and of French unity.”
FASHION
Francois-Henri Pinault and Bernard Arnault have pledged a combined €300m to the Notre-Dame Cathedral Restoration.
FASHION
LONDON RUNWAY
BY MADELEINE COFFEY
NEWS
JENNIFER LOPEZ HONOURED WITH 2019 CFDA FASHION ICON AWARD Following in the footsteps of Naomi Campbell, Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Kate Moss, Jennifer Lopez will receive the Fashion Icon Honour at the CFDA Awards this June. “Jennifer Lopez uses clothes as a way to express confidence and power… both designers and fans look forward to her fashion statements,” commented CFDA chairwoman, Diana von Furstenberg. J-Lo has certainly set a name for herself as a stylish risk-taker when it comes to fashion – from the plunging green Versace number she wore at the 2000 Grammys, to the numerous glitter bodysuits she struts on tour stages, she has kept the fashion press talking for decades. “Jennifer Lopez’s style is bold, uninhibited, and always memorable,” said Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA. “Designers, including many of our CFDA members, love to dress her for both stage and private moments.” Recently, Lopez has turned heads in the mirrored Tom Ford evening gown she wore to the 2019 Academy Awards (fittingly, Ford is the new chairman of the CFDA), the shocking pink Giambattista Valli haute couture gown that
Images via wikimedia Commons
some say took centre stage at the premiere of Second Act, and who can forget last summer's Versace denim boots? Already prepping for her summer wedding to Alex Rodriguez – set to be an incredibly stylish affair – and gearing up for her North America tour, this is a very busy year for the pop star. Adding icon status to the mix only seems fitting. Lopez is expected to attend the ceremony on June 3 at the Brooklyn Museum. Her outfit of choice is anyone's guess, but we can be sure it'll be iconic.
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LONDON RUNWAY
THE HIGH STREET HARNESSES AI River Island has partnered up with retail intelligence platform Nextail to roll out AI technology across its global network of 343 stores. Having already modernised its IT and data infrastructures through embracing cloud technology, River Island will now use Nextail’s software to tailor its stock further, mirroring changes in demand more accurately.
associated with tailoring, this project enhances accessibility of tailoring to customers - a point made by Bobby Östberg, founder and chief executive of ZyseMe.
FASHION
High street brands such as River Island and H&M have started to incorporate artificial intelligence into their business models in order to enhance customer satisfaction and increase sales.
As well as enhancing accessibility and personalization, River Island and H&M's harnessing of such technologies also furthers sustainability - producing specifically according to consumer demand in order to minimise returns and use of resources. As the spotlight on the fashion industry and its cost to our world's resources prevails, I wonder what tech-fashion partnerships are yet to come.
“The main return on investment of cloud computing, artificial intelligence and automation is not about cost savings, it is more about enabling River Island to be an agile organisation that is able to adapt rapidly,” said River Island CIO, Doug Gardener.
NEWS BY MADELEINE COFFEY
Working with Berlin-based startup, ZyseMe, H&M has employed the help of algorithms and AI to test its online tailoring feature. The new project, Just.Perfect, which has been trialled exclusively in Germany since January, allows customers to buy men's fitted white shirts from the comfort of their own home. Customers simply need to enter information such as height, weight, size and shoe size into the H&M app and await their delivery. Overcoming the need for timeconsuming measurements usually Images Via Wikimedia Commons
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Photography by Ian Clark
PURE LONDON: SHOW 1 PAGE 7
The main stage catwalk at Pure London showed us diverse trends titled Radical Play, Urban Utility, Turkish, Subculture, Perpetual Future, and Subverted Icons. The brands on show were as follows: the Aqua Closet, Mr Gugu & Miss Go, Hope Macauley, Morikukko, Urban Code London, Christina Brampti, Lola Antoine, Blood Red, Mitzi, Meld Apparel, Baya, Confetta, Fonem, Orange Boutique, 4 Funky Flavours, Sole Star, D555, Kwabia London, Hipsteria's, Aritzia, Perdibimbi, Dimo, Witch and Witch, Lu.el, Zell, Etienne, Nux, Loie, Boon, James Steward, Knights Shoes, Pour Moi, Sergio Barone, Trapper, British Bag Company, Ark Istanbul, Le Dange Rouge, Lum & Crem, Fancy Fantasy, Sorci and Fofa, Edgers, Nardo, Seeberger, Zamback, Ipek Akarca, Valeygirl, Commando, Love Too True, Cavani, Junge, 21 Defaye, Tr3dici, Tag Battoo, Sonja Tafelmeier, Martino, Blank, Gabrielle Parker, Iu Rita Mennola, Forever Amano, Big Metal London, One Hundred Stars, Mochee Kent, Knightsbridge, Eribe, Bright & Beautiful, Guide London, Harris Tweed, Appareal, Magmalab, Brise, Officota, Nara Maax, Pierre Cardin, Mayfair de Luxe, Rhaika, Sophose, Madison, and Ustabelle.
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KILLING THE FASHION GAME IN KILLING EVE the ice-cream image seems to bring us back to her childishness. Pairing it with white sneakers and a high pony, Villanelle is at once transformed, as if renewed by a spring breeze. Perusing a park with a man who clearly has fallen for her charm, she exudes a nonchalant confidence. This natural evolution of her character shows her personality developing with every new outfit. Paris is the epicentre of Villanelle’s style and the reveal of different aspects of her identity.
Olivia Jackson tracks the fashion trends by European city in ‘Killing Eve’, a BBC production which opened up the world of high fashion to a whole new audience. Its star Villanelle is the feisty female lead that we all craved who doesn’t feel the need to compromise herself and especially never her wardrobe choices.. Killing Eve burst onto the fashion scene making an unexpected but gripping sartorial statement. Villanelle, the murderess, strikes the watcher as the perfect muse. Her allure and bad-ass unbreakable determination reveal a woman who could easily flourish under the photographer’s camera. Despite the amorality involved in her acts, she is fiercely empowering. Styled expertly by Phoebe de Gaye, her outfits play on the blend of sophistication and eccentricity within her personality. Immediately as she struts onto one of her first scenes with the swish of a soft pink Burberry trench, Villanelle has taken control. She is bold. She is heartless - and she is determined to be remembered. In Paris, Villanelle is the ultimate femme fatale. Here, she strides through the streets with the Burberry trench coat casually tied around her waist to cinch it in, black and white pantsuit, and black peep-toe Balenciaga heels.
Images throughout via Killing Eve
The heels were the very first symbol of her introduction to the watcher as she sashayed out of an ice-cream shop in Vienna. The choice of Burberry emulates a classic cool-girl vibe which is contrasted with the edgier, statement streetwear of Balenciaga. It is this which first highlights Villanelle as the embodiment of effortless chic. Paris also sees her don the iconic Miu Miu red and white wrap dress which hits just above the knee. As she carries an ice-cream, the colour contrast between red and white in addition to the blue of the sky makes a memorable array of coordinating hues. The repeat of
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She also shows that she is capable of a more subversive style here. De Gaye dramatically brings to life Villanelle’s playfulness and coldheartedness in one dress. The camera cuts to an image of baby pink tulle rolling in rivulets down a lounge chair. Large glass windows frame her face which holds a knowing glimmer. Clearly, the focus of this scene is wholly on this Molly Goddard creation. The babydoll style is a teasing reminder that Villanelle has all the power here, and is free to assert herself in whatever way she desires. This dress is a complete indulgence of her childish humour. Its square neck, which still remains a staple of the fashion set, and transparent net puff sleeves add a fragility to the dress which juxtaposes the drama of the tulle skirt. With it, she wears Balenciaga biker boots with oversized silver and gold buckles and cut out sides. For all its babydoll ruffles, Goddard’s design has real power and reveals Villanelle’s sarcastic sense of comedy.
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Another dramatic Parisian outfit is a play on the off-duty model look. Casually strolling under an archway to her apartment, we are hit with both an intricately designed Phillip Lim floral bomber jacket and high-waisted, fitted dusty-pink pant suit trousers from Roksanda. The characteristically flowing lines of the trousers accentuate Villanelle’s height and give emphasis to her elegance. Neatly tucked into them is a Stella McCartney blouse in a light blush shade. The inner and blush shade. The inner and trousers on their own are a statement, relaxed but still very much put-together. The addition of the cropped bomber jacket elevates the outfit, with its rich embroidery and deep feeling of the height of summer in its colour palette. The palette De Gaye has chosen seems to focus
on these sultry warmer weather tones of reds and pinks as an ode to the romance of the city and traditional expression of Villanelle’s femininity. Tuscany offers a more care-free palette and another new version of Villanelle. Suddenly the quiet serenity of the Tuscan landscape is broken and she roars into view on a black motorbike with black helmet and black biker jacket. We catch just a glimpse of the oversized tortoiseshell glasses she is also wearing; a stark contrast to the slow, rustic mood of the fields around her. When we next see her, she has just got off the bike, wearing a mint, custom Chloé pussy-blow blouse with mid wash denim cut-offs from Paige and Dr Martens. In this new vista, Villanelle portrays a hardiness, less of the soft sensuality and
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light-heartedness of Paris and more 90s grunge revival. In Tuscany, she is able to adopt this biker chic style and exude a toughness that she hasn’t portrayed so brashly before. The delicate, flowy striped blouse emphasises that her fashion is still grounded in sensuality. After being swept up in the majesty of the Tuscan countryside, we are then immersed in a whole new bohemian Italian style. Villanelle appears in an icy blue Burberry dress with lace brocade falling in symmetrical lines around the keyhole neckline. The sheer fabric which dresses her arms and lightly covers her midriff joins the top and skirt to create a romantic aura. This dress affirms its right to be at the centre of our eyes but does not strive to overpower its
owner. Unlike the other softer statement outfits, it is in this outfit that Villanelle also performs her role as the assassin. This merge of two worlds creates no conflict; in fact, the outfit seems as much a part of her as her profession also seems to be. The striking elegance of the dress only heightens the power she assumes in taking control of life and death. Bulgaria proves a stark contrast in its industrial cityscape and shadowy, more haunting backdrop. Initially we are confronted with a grey office block, lit only shallowly by a mixture of washed out yellow and green light. Here, Villanelle entirely endorses a more androgynous look. Her hair is pulled back into Dutch braids and she wears almost completely all black. The feature piece of the outfit is clearly the forest green Miu Miu bomber jacket which has a sheen caught under the lights of the office. Even in the tough persona she portrays, the patchwork detailing on the jacket references her wit. De Gaye’s positioning of a black cat on the sleeve seems to mock the unlucky symbol, as if Villanelle ever needed to rely on luck. Her ability to blur the line between feminine and masculine is evident in the choice of black boots and monochromatic inner and leather trousers. As the scene closes, we are struck by a lasting image of
Villanelle spinning on an office chair. The aura of her clothes seems to be intensified by her complete ambivalence to the murder she has committed. On the other hand, Berlin sees an amalgamation of Villanelle’s toughness and softness. The most striking look of the series must be the JW Anderson deep emerald leather blouse and tortoiseshell cat eye sunglasses which she wears while spying. The touch of hardwear in the large black buttons gives definition to the blouse and pulls it together. A subdued colour palette only serves to bring the look more attention. Berlin’s own industrial modernity is made present in this scene of her surveillance. Where the richness of the leather and use of hardwear indicates her ruthlessness, the high frilled collar which circles her neck adds a softer gentility. Elongating her neckline and drawing the eye up to her statement glasses, the look has stunning impact, but the colours seem to work together and do not overwhelm. Against the backdrop of the mix of beige and mustard yellow of the Berlin subway station, Villanelle appears in a sharp maroon and navy patterned suit. It has a single button to cinch it in. The first impression the suit gives is of her focus and eagleeyed watchfulness. The retro colour scheme of the subway
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juxtaposes the suit which is at once modern and of another era. This Dries van Noten pantsuit is a memorable piece, accentuated by an olive-green neck scarf which adds a pop of colour in the neckline of the jacket. Here, De Gaye seems to have envisioned an androgynous take on the 80s female power suit. Its choice is meant to offer insight into Villanelle’s mental headspace, giving us a lens into her drive. Her hair, pulled back into tightly interlocking milkmaid braids, achieves a slick finish. The suit rejects categorisation and makes a powerful silhouette, further highlighting a sense of her absolute control over the situation. As the series progresses, Villanelle’s lack of security and precarious emotional state seems to be reflected in the clothes she wears. The persona she assumes in the U.K is mostly achieved through wearing a khaki green Barbour jacket. Still an iconic standard in British fashion, this does fulfil the image of the innocent English rose she is tasked to perform. Yet it seems as if Villanelle is not impenetrable to emotion, as we had once believed. By consistently using this one outfit for her U.K. mission, we see that the image of the invincible fashion forward assassin has now been undermined and her creativity and love of colour subdued. Nowhere is her happiness or lack thereof more evident than in her
LONDON RUNWAY
outfit choices. Killing Eve provides a delicious array of high fashion, with a badass villain/anti-hero in Villanelle. We can at least all relate to how much of her personality is put into her clothes and how she uses fashion to express aspects of herself in new and innovative ways. Watching inspired me to make bolder choices and expand my understanding of everyday colours. Who’s to say I can’t also wear cat-eye tortoiseshell glasses and strut down the street in a huge baby-doll tulle dress?
See more from Olivia Jackson at https://www.instagram.com/olivu_
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Joanna
Photography - Paul Winstone Hair and Makeup:Â Huma Tahir Designer: Karolina Kalska Model: Joanna Borov
LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
THE DIGITAL FASHION REVOLUTION As society continues to exhibit their lives online and concerns about sustainability keep on growing, digital clothing may have the potential to be bought as much as physical garments. Judith Willis learns more about the digital revolution.
The thought might seem inexplicable, but consumers have been spending money on digital fashion items for longer than you would think. Remember Stardoll? Circa 2007, it was an extremely popular online game where you could dress up your favourite celebrities and even give yourself a wardrobe that would make people envious in virtual and actual reality. But it wasn’t all fun and games. Those digital products for your doll came at a cost – a cost which resulted in my mum taking my phone off me so I couldn’t keep sending texts to order more digital currency. Then there is the more contemporary example of the “Kim Kardashian: Hollywood”
game, based on an existing franchise, which allows users to dress members and associates of the Kardashian/Jenner clan in designer clothing. Since its launch five years ago, the game has generated more than $240 million in sales, proving just how popular virtual dressing-up truly is. A few companies have already experimented with creating and selling digital clothing collections. The idea is that a customer supplies a photo of themselves and the clothes are superimposed to make it look like they’re wearing the apparel. In November last year, Norwegian multi-brand retailer Carlings released its first digital clothing
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collection, featuring explicit nods to today’s digital age, with captions such as ‘Artificial Excellence’ and ‘I’m Not A Robot’ emblazoned across various garb. Each piece cost between €10 and €30, and had a limited production run. Due to the nature of the clothes, several social media influencers were called in to promote the collection on their Instagram accounts and within a week, everything had sold out. Although the notion of digital clothing seems far-fetched and space-age, this is an exciting step towards making fashion more sustainable. The industry thrives on overconsumption thanks to new lines being released daily, both in stores and online. One
LONDON RUNWAY could argue that fashion influencers play a detrimental part in this ongoing issue, with many promoting fast-fashion brands such as Boohoo and Pretty Little Thing that are known as some of the worst offenders in unsustainability. But there is a new generation of digital influencers who are fast becoming the most sought after faces for fashion houses like Balmain. Back in 2018, the world’s first digital supermodel, Shudu, made her debut on social media, with many mistaking her as a human being thanks to the enormous attention to detail that went into her design. Her creator, Cameron-James Wilson, is a former fashion photographer whose obsession with a Barbie doll named South African Princess, penchant for creating gamer avatars, and love for fashion resulted in the “birth” of Shudu who he describes as an “art piece”. Although Wilson admits that digital supermodels won’t replace real models, he is confident that it will change the way the fashion industry works, most specifically minimising its carbon footprint. So when can we expect digital clothing to become mainstream? The answer is not for a while. There are significant obstacles blockading the majority of fashion brands from making digital clothing commonplace.
Perhaps the greatest issue is that most clothing designers are not trained in 3D modelling, and it is difficult to translate samples patterns onto a computer screen. But one fashion brand has already developed 40% of its collections using 3D technology. Back in 2013, Hugo Boss began
experimenting with 3D models of simple, plain garments and realised the advantage this had over physical samples. Consider this: with a manual prototype there is the back and forth of sending it to the supplier (often international suppliers based in countries such as China), then there is the multiple changes of print, colour and fabric – and all of this requires copious amounts of packaging, transport emissions and wastage. But with a 3D model, a few mouse clicks can change the design completely and in a fraction of the time. As with most revolutions, digital fashion has a long way to go, but whilst its impact is gradual it is highly significant. For an industry that is recognised as one of the biggest polluters on Earth, the environmental resolutions that are being proposed and actioned are as imaginative and fantastical as fashion itself. What exciting innovation will be next? I can’t wait to find out. Find Judith on Instagram with @_misswillis_
Images via Instagram, Pixabay
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name: Luanda Holness Age: I'm 22 Location: Dudley
Where are you from? I’ve lived in the same place my whole life. I’m from a small town called Dudley which most people haven’t heard of. Agency? I’m with Frame Perfect at the moment but I also seek out my own work. I’m also with an acting agency and I’m also a writer [laughs]. I do spoken word. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can do a backbend and I can basically win any game of limbo [laughs].
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What surprises people to know about you? My writing. When I write spoken word, because it rhymes and has a rhythm and flow, most people see it as rap. So people normally don’t expect to see that from me. Modelling Ambitions? In five years I think I see myself doing international campaigns and just earning enough money to live comfortably and have enough money to set my mum up with a comfortable allowance.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name: Diana Kendirbekova Age: 20 Location: London Agency: Frame Perfect
What would surprise people to know about you? I can speak Russian, Kazak, French, English and Arabic
How long have you been modelling? Three or four years. I got started on Instagram and won a beauty pageant at 18.
What are your modelling ambitions? I was watching America’s Next Top Model at the age of six and I would love to be photographed for a famous magazine, walk a top runway and model for a brand like Zara.
Where are you from originally? Kazakhstan Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can do the splits.
Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name: Jeff Roberto Age: I’m 30 years old Location: I currently live in South London. Agency: I work for Frame Perfect How long have you been modelling for? Since I was 18 years old. Where are you from originally? I’m Brazilian Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? My talent is that I have my own menswear brand. I do it as a hobby because I love fashion and designing my own clothes.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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What would surprise people to know about you? I’m a really friendly Latino. I love modelling and meeting people. What are your modelling ambitions? I see myself modelling a lot in London which is the main reason I came here. I feel like I can see myself doing a lot for my own company.
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name: My name is Dan Candler Age: I’m 23 Location: East London Agency: I am with Frame Perfect How long have you been modelling for? I’d say probably about a year now on and off. For about six months seriously. Where are you from? So I’m from Northamptonshire, but I’ve been living in East London for two years. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I’m pretty good at circus skills. I always whack out some juggling at parties, people love it.
Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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What would surprise people to know about you? Last year I was in a Durex advert. That’s always a funny story to whack out. What are your modelling ambitions? I think mainly just being respected for my creativity rather than any specific field. I just want people to be able to know me for my talents rather than just in a general field.
#LONDONRUNWAYSTYLE Our eyes on your socials
com men t
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LONDON EDGE 1 Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
The London Edge show brought plenty of interesting looks for us to admire from the alternative fashion scene. With two shows created for visitors to watch, each one had its own unique spin. In this first show, the brands covered included: Sinister, Hearts and Roses London, Hell Bunny, New Rock, Collectif, Voodoo Vixen, and Burleska. Keep reading for the second part of the London Edge shows!
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THE ULTIMATE CELEBRATION OF 20 YEARS IN ALTERNATIVE, YOUTH AND SUBCULTURE FASHION 20 years of LondonEdge, what an incredible journey thus far! We’ve created 39 events in London, two in Berlin, one in New York and now we’re happy to be approaching our 3rd trade festival in Las Vegas. That’s a lot to be proud of, but we’re not done yet as we approach of the ultimate celebration of the BIG 4-0
LONDON EDGE 40 this September! Boasting two whole decades of business transactions, catwalks and creative fashion and general anarchy, LondonEdge is now one of the longest running British tradeshows… and you can see why. Attracting thousands of people from all over the globe, the 40th edition of the planet’s biggest live alternative fashion forum will take place 1st-2nd September 2019 at the Business Design Centre, Islington. For #40, impact is king! As the ultimate alternative fashion trade festival in the world, LondonEdge is celebrating all areas of fashion.
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From sourcing, to business insight, law and even digital and influencer marketing, LondonEdge: 40 will be the go-to hub for all areas of independent business. With over 75% of the overall floorspace already sold, an injection of industry experts, advice on undertaking the challenges faced post-Brexit, sourcing opportunities and a new tribe of the biggest influencers in fashion primed to be making their debut at LondonEdge: 40 – can you really afford to miss out? Watch this space for more information and get ready… it’s going to be a rocky ride!
MARY JUST WANNA HAVE FUN
LONDON RUNWAY
Dior treasures and wonders may be just metres away, but there is another exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum which is not to be missed: the retrospective dedicated to Mary Quant. It immerses us right back into the fun and light-hearted mood of swinging London and takes us behind the scenes of Mary Quant’s style, philosophy of life, and vision of women. “I feel fashion is about life,” said Mary Quant in an interview in 1985. And life, energy, and freedom are the accurate words to depict the atmosphere of this exhibition. From minis to colourblock stockings and flashy makeup, you can feel her vibrant and airy personality bubbling constantly. It’s no wonder, though, since her inspirations included jazz, the flappers of the 1920’s, tap dancers and schoolgirls. Yes, Mary Quant just wanted to have fun! One would naturally expect that she is only about the light jersey and easy-to-move-around-in minis and hot pants. Guided through the evolution of her style and designs, one becomes aware that these fashion breakthroughs, for which she has been credited, are not what came first. Like good wine, they took a few years in the making.
Indeed, you’d be surprised (spoiler alert!) to discover that the clothes she initially produced and sold, albeit very feminine, were rather conservative, pretty demure and very well-behaved: classic wrap-around silhouettes, traditional cocktail below-theknee tulip-dresses, massive use of large flat pleats. The fabrics she worked with in her early days were heavier and more rigid. She also drew inspiration from the Victorian era, not exactly a symbol when it comes to freedom and liberation of women, although, with time, she came to translate this inspiration less and less literally
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and even scoffed at it. Despite the apparent conservatism of her first creations, her light and funny spirits were already transpiring full blast. It is obvious that she was, since the very beginning, driven by a subtle sense of humour and, above all, a fondness for breaking longestablished rules. Her designs were given statement and amusing names, definitely aimed at taking a stance, sneering at some realities of the time. One cannot help but smile at the irony of her Bank of England dress (1962), when you think that, back then, women could not open a bank account without the approval of a male chaperone. The Rex Harrison dress (1962), which is branded after the famous actor who played Professor Higgins in My Fair Lady and was renowned for wearing cardigans, is an absolute joke: a knee-length cardigan with side pockets so low and shallow they are impossible for the wearer to reach, let alone to use. The butcher striped dress (1961), designed like an apron and made of a heavy cotton white and blue striped fabric, is also quite a statement in itself, including that fashion should not be taken too seriously.
LONDON RUNWAY Breaking the rules was an art she mastered to perfection early on, notably when she borrowed from the masculine wardrobe as a source of inspiration for her outfits. Amongst the most memorable ones are a pair of trousers (at a time when it was frowned upon for women to wear them) made from the same cloth as men’s tailoring, especially for their morning suits, as well as an outfit constituted of separates: a waistcoat and a tie dress. Her fashion shows were also very relaxed with bands playing live music and models having fun on the catwalks. In a nutshell, they were a far cry from the fashion shows of the day, strictly choreographed and emerging straight from a cloud of hairspray. “I think fashion anticipates,” she once said. And, at anticipating, she did excel indeed. She constantly put into practice her sharp eye for distorting fabrics and clothes from their original purpose, altering and enriching their function in a playful way. The bestselling items at Bazaar, the shop she founded in Chelsea in 1955 with her husband, Alexander
Plunkett-Greene and their friend, Archie Mac Nair, were whiteplastic Peter Pan collars. She also designed, in 1964, an evening gown made of wool, not exactly the designated fabric to attend social dos! The PVC raincoats, to which she dedicated an entire collection in 1963, the Wet Collection, are probably some of her most revolutionary creations, not only with regards to the technology and craftsmanship they required but also for their style. With her, raincoats became colourful and sexy, turning this somewhat overlooked wardrobe piece, synonym forbad weather, into an alluring, sophisticated and feminine item. They make you feel like humming “I’m singing in the rain” rather than wailing a downcast “It’s raining again”. Finally, one must not forget her famous colour block stockings, propelling hosiery from a mere humble functional destiny to an integral part of a woman’s look.With this explosion of colours, she could easily be dubbed the “Pop Art” designer. Humour, breaking rules and playful innovations were therefore the
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pillars which shaped her style and her perspective of woman and femininity. Her vision of a woman is that of independence, a woman who works, is constantly on the move and juggles between various activities in her everyday life. She believed in a fashion for“real people” and, to her, the point of short skirts was that “so you could move and dance and run and catch the bus (...)”. But it’s not just the mini which gives freedom of movement. Quant made sure her designs were functional, comfortable and could transition well from daytime to evening. Always with a zest of fun and lots of colours, she adopted very simple and refined cuts, incorporated zippers and delicate stitching and popularised sweatpants as a must have in a wardrobe. She went on to encompass every aspect of a woman’s look when she created her lingerie line, especially made to complement her clothes, her footwear, and, of course, her makeup range. “The point of clothes for women should be, one, that you’re noticed, two, that you look sexy, and three, that you feel good.” If those words
LONDON RUNWAY sound universal when it comes to femininity and what every woman actually wants to achieve with her looks, Mary Quant’s vision of woman, however, appears to be rather ambivalent: she’s selfconfident, not afraid to show her legs and be sexy, but she still has a foot (or a heel...) in childhood. Spontaneity is the essence of her style and, akin to the name of one of her dresses, the Mary Quant woman would be more accurately described as a“daddy’s girl” rather than a femme fatale. Indeed, no curves nor cleavages in sight, as if showcasing them, the very attributes of women, were far too serious and would strip them of their innocence. Instead, she chose legs and a childlike attitude. Her style is forever associated with playfulness, as her numerous pinafore dresses and peter-pan collars show. The apotheosis of this playfulness lies probably in her “OBE outfit” in which she purposefully looked more like a grown-up schoolgirl with her beret than like a proper “Dame” which she was officially made that day. If, sadly, the designs she’s renowned for may not be the best fit for the short and curvy ones of us, unlike her early creations which would have suited a wider range of silhouettes, the fact remains that Mary Quant’s influence on fashion is tremendous. We will not dive (but rather tip a toe) into the debate over whether the mini is her original creation or that of French designer André
Courrèges. Apart from the fact that there is no point in putting a dent into our not so old Entente Cordiale, Quant famously credited her customers for actually inventing the mini skirt, recounting that they wanted their hemlines shorter and shorter. She therefore pioneered street fashion (trends are not dictated by designers anymore but by the “real” people) and massmarket production, especially with her lower-price range, the Ginger Group. She contributed to making London a fashion centre, which it is
still nowadays. Everyone wanted a piece of the London Look of the 60’s, the USA and Tokyo couldn’t just get enough of Mary. She popularised the mini worldwide and, in the present day, there is not a fashion show without one. Mary Quant proved that fun and style were not incompatible. It is that playful and childlike attitude, both in life and aesthetically, that crafted her iconic style, a philosophy of life to which the miniskirt happened to be the epitome.
See more from Marie at instagram.com/marie_fourmeaux_tips_and_style/ Mary Quant is at the Victoria and Albert Museum until 16 February 2020. All images via V&A Museum
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LONDON BRIDAL FASHION WEEK Brides needed to look no further than London Bridal Fashion Week for a whole host of inspiration in all kinds of different forms. From traditional to modern, you could pick and choose whatever style you wanted and still find plenty of examples. The brands on the catwalk, in order as presented here, were as follows: Allure Bridals, BSS by Safiyya Babayeva, Dando London, Danit Levi, Eliza Jane Howell, Eternity Bride, Ivory & Co, Justin Alexander, Lillian West, Lilly & Charles, Lusan Mandongus, Mark Lesley, Morilee, Peony Rice, Sincerity Bridal, Tiffanys, and Victoria Sanders.
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Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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THE RISE OF SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES As brands hunt for sustainable textiles to use in their collections, there has been a movement in innovative fibres and fabrics – Judith Willis unearths these nontraditional materials, some of which come from unexpected sources.
MILK Qmilch is an eco-friendly textile made from milk. The designer of the fabric, Anke Domaske, was a student studying microbiology but now runs fashion label Mademoiselle Chi Chi, which has started weaving the milk fibre into its collections. Domaske’s inspiration for creating Qmilch came whilst her father was undergoing cancer treatment and as a side effect began to struggle with skin problems and sensitivity to fabrics. The idea of creating textiles from milk has been around since the 1930s, but previous attempts have all employed harmful chemicals. Qmilch, on the other hand, has a more ecologically friendly process. Made from organic milk that has gone sour and cannot be sold, itis heated, combined with ingredients such as beeswax, and spun into thread. Domaske says that Qmilch “feels just like silk,” and is odourless and biodegradable. It also contains a protein that retains
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antibacterial and anti-aging amino acids, and helps to regulate both body temperature and blood circulation. Following a wash, the fabric dries twice as fast as cotton – a textile which takes ten thousand litres of water to produce two pounds of fabric, in contrast to Qmilch which requires only half a gallon. Domaske is planning on designing a whole collection made entirely from Qmilch.
MUSHROOMS, PINEAPPLES AND GRAPES Mycelium “leather” is created from the microscopic spores produced by mushrooms. Once the cells are cultivated, they naturally assemble into a sturdy, 3D mesh-like structure that can be compressed to become a viable material. This is then dyed and tanned to create a leather-like finish. The material is non-toxic and biodegradable, and can be produced within a matter of days. Not surprisingly, Mycelium “leather” is rapidly becoming a popular vegan alternative to animal fibres. Pineapple 'leather', or Piñatex, came about when leather expert Carmen Hijosa went to visit the Philippines to consult with leather industry there.
Hijosa observed that the quality of the leather was poor, and producing it was harmful to both the local environment and the community. But during her visit, she observed something else: the volume of wasted pineapple leaves left over from pineapple farming. The leaves, Carmen learnt, have “good strength and flexibility” that made it possible to turn them into a plant-based leather alternative. Fine cellulose strands are extracted from the pineapple leaves, separated and felted together into a nonwoven fabric. It takes around four hundred and eighty leaves to create a single square metre of Piñatex, which weighs and costs less than a comparable amount of leather. Although Piñatexincludes a nonbiodegradable protective coat for durability, the company is working towards creating a natural alternative that will make the fabric fully biodegradable. Grape “leather” was developed by the Italian company Vegea after its founder Gianpiero Tessitore began to research“the physical and mechanical properties of various plant fibres, and their ability to be transformed into eco-friendly materials.” His exploration led him to discover that thewaste fibres and oils from wine production were ideal for creating a sustainable leather alternative. There are twenty-six billion litres of wine produced annually and rather than letting all the grape skins, stalks, and seeds go to waste, Vegea is using it to make a fashion forward product.
OCEAN PLASTIC WASTE Plastic is the most common element of pollution found in the ocean and it is threatening marine life to an unprecedented level. However, textiles that re-use plastic waste are on the rise. One company that is making great changes is Seaqual, which creates recycled polyester using plastic waste salvaged from the Spanish Mediterranean coast. Working together with fishermen in the collection of all sorts of plastic polluting the ocean, Seaqual then sort through the plastics, locating those that have polyethylene terephthalate or PET materials. The PET is then converted into flakes and eventually into polymers which are spun into threads that go straight into fabrics and clothing. Another business working to reclaim marine debris to make fabric is Econyl, which uses waste from landfill and oceans to create a regenerated nylon. Their method requires very little water and leaves less waste than traditional nylon production methods. The waste debris is collected, purified then broken down before it goes through the process of depolymerisation to extract the nylon. In turn the nylon is then polymerised and converted into yarn which is then recommercialised into textile products. Who would have thought that one day we would be creating textiles
All images via Pixabay
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from fruit, fungus and plastic waste? These products come at a cost but fortunately not with an expiry date.
LONDON RUNWAY
STYLE GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rachel Parker
Cotton Top H&M Conscious £17.99
Best Earrings Komodo £20
Vegan Clogs Free People £88
Dressed Wedding Guest Skirt Edward Mongzar at Lone Design Club £315
Vegan Clutch Bag Elisabeth Fredriksson at Hetty+Sam £32
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7 LITTLE CHANGES THAT WILL MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE TO YOUR SELFIES Images via Pixabay Illustration by Joe Bailey
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When you’re an aspiring model or actor, the way you look in photographs is so important. Even when you are just taking a selfie, it is important to get it right. You want to be happy with the results right off the bat, rather than being disappointed when the images don’t match up to your expectations. Try these seven little and quick changes, which could make a real difference to your results!
Rhiannon D’Averc offers her advice on how to be happier with the way you look in photos, with illustration by Joe Bailey.
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Consider your backgrounds.
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Seek the light. Turn so that you are facing into the light. This is particularly important if you are trying to take a picture with a smartphone, as they are not as good at picking up light as a DSLR! Put simply, a better lit face is one that appears more attractive. Try to prevent big dark shadows around your eyes and nose caused by the direction of the light – you’re better off by a window rather than underneath a light fitting. Eliminating shadows might not be possible, but try to pay attention to the position and angles of the shadows on your face. When you know how light can cause shadows – for example, if you know that you don’t want a strong light making a giant nose shadow – then you can apply this when posing for others.
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Everyone has seen an example of the selfie clearly taken in the toilets of a venue, and they never look great. Finding a plain wall or an interesting pattern to stand in front of will improve the selfie vastly. The same is true with professional portraits, and this is why photographers use backdrops. If you’re using the image as a way to sell yourself, for example as an influencer or as part of your modelling portfolio, make sure that the background gives off the impression you want to achieve. You could stand in front of a wardrobe in order to show your interest in clothes, or a rack of magazines to demonstrate where your face will be one day! Many YouTubers are expert at creating a backdrop that tells something about them, so check out some influential vloggers for ideas.
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This is especially important when you are auditioning and need a few portfolio shots to send before your first real shoot or acting role. You need to look the part, and that means taking as much time and effort as possible to provide the best version of yourself that you can.
Use a photo editor on your phone There are plenty of photo editing apps out there that are free to download, or you can use a social media feature like Instagram’s filters. You can always improve a photo on your phone - try brightening and increasing contrast even if you don’t want to use a colour filter. In fact, filters are often unnecessary if you know the basics of photo editing. Try adding a slight sharpening, raising the shadows, and then increasing brightness if necessary. If it feels a bit washed out, add in contrast. This is a quick fix that will often make your selfie look better right away. Some apps are more advanced and can even add makeup onto your face. Before saving your results, try to assess whether the image still looks realistic, as it can sometimes be a bit too obvious. It’s also a lot better to shoot first and edit later rather than taking a selfie with a Snapchat filter over your face – you can’t take it off again if you change your mind when editing.
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Look directly at the camera lens. A lot of people end up looking into the mirror at themselves or at the screen of the phone, giving them a distracted look. Get the angle and your pose perfect, then look at the lens when you are ready to go. Most phones come with a timer so that you can press the shutter and then have time to look in the right place. When shooting with a photographer, remember this tip and look right into the lens. Looking at the camera body or even the photographer themselves will end up leaving your eyes a little offcentred.
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Get yourself some lenses. You can buy clip on lens attachments for just about any model of smartphone these days, and most are not expensive. With a set of your own you can get a whole new level of clarity and detail - and it will make wider or closer images possible too.
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Try it out first. Look in the mirror from all angles and even try snapping randomly to see what a different side of you may look like. You may find a new angle that you prefer to what you have tried before - but beware of looking awkward by contorting yourself. No one wants a reminder of the MySpace pose! This is a great tip for getting in front of the camera, too. When you learn your angles and which side of your face looks best, and how to control this, you can impress a photographer much more.
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Prepare yourself. Do your makeup, your hair, and put on a carefully chosen outfit before you snap. Selfies can be spontaneous, but if you take the time beforehand, the results might be much more impressive. Influencers don’t pick up whatever was on their bedroom floor before snapping a shot – each Instagram post is a carefully curated photoshoot.
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Many smartphone manufacturers are also releasing special camera functions and additions which may soon make it unnecessary to buy extra attachments, so check the specs next time you pick up a new phone. Some have double lenses or other features designed to ensure your shot looks as good as possible. Pay attention to your other modes, too – gone are the days when a phone camera was just a simple point and shoot! Most now come with options like portrait mode, panoramas, adjustments for night time, and so on. Use the right mode and you’ll see your results improve. Give these tips a try and see what works for you! Brave enough to post a before and after? Tag us on #londonrunwaystyle and we might share it in our next issue!
LONDON RUNWAY
PURE PURE FUTURES FUTURES
The Future Catwalk at Pure London allows smaller brands to showcase their clothing, often aimed at the youth market. The brands on show included: Kiki Riki, Glamorous, Amy Lynn, Austin Bodd, TY, Xplct Studios, Elizabeth An'Marie, The Morphbag by GSK, WAL-G, Pure Pastel, The Pretty Dress Company, Balls Mania, Seeberger, Lace & Beads, Sallo, Nardo, F&P, and Marc Darcy.
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WHY TRADE SHOWS ARE IMPORTANT FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY Rhiannon D’Averc explores a facet of the fashion industry you may not yet be aware of – and why it remains relevant in this day and age.
With all the buzz about trade shows in this issue, you might be wondering how they work and why we have so many of them. Every season, a number of big trade shows happen for industry insiders and press, which allow brands to introduce their new lines and even take part in catwalk shows if they wish to. But why does it all happen? Here’s why trade shows are still essential to the fashion industry, even in the digital age.
They allow connections to be built One clear benefit of a trade show is that it brings a large volume of people into the same space at the same time, which means it is a lot easier for brands to make connections with the people that can help them grow. The networking opportunities really are unparalleled anywhere else. With a stand displaying your items, a sales rep, booker, buyer, PR agent, or even influencer can walk up to you and register their interest. You can swap business cards and
details, and kick off what might turn out to be a lucrative relationship. This saves a lot of time and effort for the brand owners, who would otherwise have to entice buyers and other connections over with personal meetings, emails, and phone calls. Even if they knew where to find their contact details, it would be a long and drawn-out process which would leave less room for volume. At a trade show, however, people can come from all around the world to find the brands they want and need. That puts owners in a fantastic position, where they can pitch their brand to a huge number of people at once.
They allow monitoring of industry trends What are the latest industry trends? You might be able to answer that question by looking at haute couture and ready-to-wear catwalks and comparing them with what you see on the high street. There might be a few obvious answer from those data points, but
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the problem is that this information is already old. Buyers in particular aren’t looking for what is popular now – they want to get the next big thing and make it available to their customers. This means that if your brand is lagging behind and hasn’t hit any of those marks, you might miss out in sales volume over the next season. Press and other visitors use the trade shows as a way to discover the latest trends and report on them, but brands might use them as a chance to ensure they are on the right mark. If they aren’t, it might not be too late for a few quick redesigns and some pitches to interested parties – helping to salvage an otherwise turbulent season.
They offer costeffective promotion Alright, so the cost of exhibiting at a trade fair – especially one of the big-name ones – can be daunting. However, when taking into account the sheer number of potential opportunities present at the show, it might just work out as a nobrainer. If positioned correctly, the
LONDON RUNWAY ROI can be massive. Fashion powerhouses, big and influential buyers, press teams, and more are all present at these events. They are looking for the next big thing – or even something new from a familiar face. This means that the potential for sales can be enormous, and could far outweigh the cost of the stall. Getting onto the catwalk can also offer the kind of chance for press images that is rarely found outside of Fashion Week, and at a much lower cost to boot. Running an LFW show can be extremely expensive, so much so that brands knowingly make a loss on them, but the exposure is always deemed to be worth it. That tells you something about what a catwalk show can do for a brand. There aren’t many chances that come around with such an impressive potential return compared to the price of entry – except, of course, for advertising with London Runway magazine (cough, cough).
They keep your brand top-of-mind The other thing about the fashion industry is that it can be quite fickle. While many of us can remember the big stand-out
fashion moments in our lifetimes (Alexander McQueen’s Plato’s Atlantis, Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb show, THAT Savage x Fenty catwalk), we probably don’t remember the name of a brand that we vaguely liked last season but never heard of again.
Except we would, if we did hear from them again. That’s why returning to trade shows season after season – or at least year after year, if budget is an issue – is so important for burgeoning brands. Getting your name out there is one thing, but keeping it out there is another. Trade shows help the industry in
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more ways than one. One thing is for certain, though – even in an age when we expect to do most of our communication online, there’s nothing that can replace walking up to a stand and seeing, touching, and even weighing garments in your hand. With the convenience of so many brands under one roof, it’s little wonder that it looks unlikely trade shows will go away any time soon.
Read more from Rhiannon at twitter.com/rhiannondaverc All images via Pixabay
WIN! TWO TICKETS TO MANCHESTER FASHIONISTAS FASHION SHOW AND RECEPTION
Want to get your hands on a pair of tickets to an exclusive fashion show? We've got two passes to give away for you and a friend to attend the Manchester Fashionistas show on the 6th October 2019. Held at Manchester Hall, it promises to be an extravaganza of fabulous fashion, with a fashion market alongside the catwalk where you can meet some exciting new brands. Don't miss out on the reception starting from 5pm - this is the fourth time PAT Model Coaching have held this event and it is sure to be a stunner. If you don't win, you can still pick up an early bird ticket up to the 6h June - and tickets will stay on sale until the 5th October, giving you plenty of time to make your mind up. We'll be picking a winner on the 18th May, so you have until then to enter - and it couldn't be simpler to do so!
HEAD TO LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK TO ENTER!
WILDERNESS Photography - Jose Graca Makeup Artist - Roseanne Shekinah Wardrobe - Ilaria Lepore Models: Liva Salina and Leonardo Faria Post Production - Cristiana Ramos
Livia wears: geometric cape - £1200, Ilaria Lepore
Livia wears: geometric cape - ÂŁ1200, Ilaria Lepore
Above: Liva wears: leather body - price on request; velvet overcoat - £450, Ilaria Lepore
Right: Leonardo wears: leather collar £280; buckle trousers £145, both Ilaria Lepore
Liva wears: leather body - price on request; Ruota skirt - £135, all Ilaria Lepore Leonardo wears: gloves - £150; preversion shorts - £185, all Ilaria Lepore
Liva wears: leather body - price on request; Ruota skirt £135, all Ilaria Lepore Leonardo wears: gloves - £150; preversion shorts £185, all Ilaria Lepore
Leonardo wears: buckle trousers ÂŁ145, Ilaria Lepore
Above: Leonardo wears: leather collar £280; buckle trousers £145, both Ilaria Lepore
Right: Liva wears: leather body - price on request; velvet overcoat - £450, Ilaria Lepore
NEIGHBOURHOOD VOICES: LEAKE STREET ARCHES GRAFFITI TUNNELS Candice takes you underground into London’s Graffiti Tunnels in this issue’s Neighbourhood Voices. A hidden gem, this graffiti tunnel tucked away in Southbank acts as a public art gallery and canvas for creatives. With the spray cans spraying, dancers dancing, and neon lights glowing, it’s like entering another world of colourful bliss with art from the likes of Banksy. The Nelson Mandela: The Official Exhibition is also running until 2nd June, which I highly recommend! In addition, the styles of the wanderers who stumble in perfectly compliment the eclectic and layered nature of the tunnel and artwork.
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DJENEBA (FOUNDER OF ARBONNE, LONDON, FRANCE)
What and who are your fashion inspirations? I think it’s really interesting because, for a long time, I felt like I couldn’t find my style, and now, I’m 43 and can finally be myself. I finally found my style, and what I’m wearing today is absolutely me. For the skirt, I entered a shop, and I was just like *gasp*. Just the connection and I need to buy it. That’s what I do with all of my clothes now— just go with the flow and be myself, basically. Does being from France have an influence on your style? No. No, no. The way I used to dress when I lived in France was completely different. It was more conventional. Now, it’s probably more like the London vibe. Haha! Like the eccentric, quirky… Yeah! I feel like that’s me. I’m eccentric a little bit, and I’m an extrovert. Finally, I’m allowing myself to try something the way I want. I don’t really care about what people think, now. Finally, it took me 43 years, but hey, it’s never too late haha!
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HOLLY JACKSON (FASHION STUDENT, WINDSOR) What and who are your fashion inspirations? I quite like streetwear and edgy, urban sort of outfits. Does Windsor have an influence on your style? Well, in South Hampton, it’s more of a sort of urban city, so yeah, in South Hampton. But not Windsor, not really. Do you come to this area often? No, not really. I came up to research locations for photo shoots, and graffitis are a part of my final piece for uni.
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WAI-LEONG NGOH (OFFICE WORKER, REDDING) What and who are your fashion inspirations? It’s pretty much like always black clothing and things like that. Anything that’s comfortable for skating throughout the day. Do you come to the graffiti tunnels often? Hardly. I come with my friend because House of Vans is literally right around the corner, so when events are around, I’ll pop in and join her. Does where you’re from, North London, have an influence on your personal style? Not really, I don’t think. Most of how I dress is with the K-pop type stuff because it’s so much more comfortable to wear. Even my art... This is from Fooly Cooly, which is an anime. Is this your first artwork? This is my first one in public, so yeah. I’m doing art courses, but this is my first public one… my debut!
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NANCY LAM (PHYSICIAN’S ASSISTANT STUDENT, NEW YORK)
What and who are your fashion inspirations? I guess it’s like people on the streets; wherever I look, I get inspired by them. Does New York have an influence on how you dress? Not quite. I feel like here people are more freedom to dress how they want, so, I think I’m like… I want to be more daring. In New York, everyone is more black and white, from where I am. Like the businesswear? Exactly, yeah. Do you come here often? No, this is like my second time here. I’m only here for Spring break, so I have to leave my mark before I head home! Haha!
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice Wu brings you hot summer vacations and swimsuits! With the London weather swinging between hot and cold, I’m sure most of you can’t wait to get away from the indecisive climate. Here are some HOT cities near the water for you to explore this coming summer with some stylish swimwear to match!
Aries March 21 - April 20
Barcelona, Spain Fly off to Barcelona to indulge in the rich history, passionate nightlife, and stretches of beaches! With this Triangle black bikini top and Olympic bottom from allSisters, a brand based in Barcelona, you’ll be ready for relaxing or partying.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Chania, Crete, Greece With a 14th-century Venetian harbour, the Museum of Typography(!), Roman artifacts, and a quaint little lighthouse overlooking the Mediterranean, any Taurus will thrive here! Pack this Vitamin A Black Serra two-piece swimsuit.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Ischia, Naples, Italy This little volcanic island has bubbling hot springs and mineralrich thermal waters to unwind any tension or stress. The always active Gemini, wearing their Demeter swimsuit by Lilliput & Felix, will love it here!
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Cancer June 22- July 22
Ghent, Belgium Although it doesn’t have a lavish beach nearby, this cute little port city and university town will inspire any Cancer. This one-piece spaghetti strap swimsuit by Base Range can be worn with a pair of shorts or a skirt for exploring the gothic and medieval architecture around the city or just on its own as well!
Leo July 23- August 21
Dubai, United Arab Emirates Luxury shopping, expansive beaches, and GOLD EVERYWHERE, Leos will be over the moon to vacation in Dubai. Wearing this Santorini swimsuit by Kiniki, they’ll draw the eyes of all vacation goers.
Virgo August 22- September 23
Maldives, South Asia Hardworking Virgo deserves a break, and where better to unwind than in the Maldives, jewels of the Indian Ocean, in a floating hut? Wearing this Zenia swimsuit set by Underprotection, Virgos’ perfectionism will unwind along with them..
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Libra September 24- October 23 Aitutaki, Cook Islands Surrounded by a barrier reef and teeming with marine life, Aitutaki is the perfect spot for animal-loving Libras to venture to. With this fun, bright lilac swimsuit set by Bay the Swim, they’ll be one with the fishes in the colourful reefs.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 Göcek, Turkey You’ll never want to leave after escaping to Göcek, Turkey. Stay in a yacht with the waters at your doorstep or venture into the plethora of islands and coves in its secluded bay. Scorpios will look stunning with The Multiway by Londre in the vertical striped pattern.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
Great Barrier Reef Queensland, Australia As one of the seven wonders of the world, the Great Bearrier Reef definitely does not disappoint. As the signature traveler, this is a bucket list location for any Sagittarius. Fittingly made from ocean plastics, this durable and functional rash guard (Yasmeen) and reversible swim bottom (Maria) combo by Ruby Moon will have Sagittariusesfeeling and looking good.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Capricorn December 23- January 20
Wailea, Maui, Hawaii, USA Always churning Capricorn will melt in the ultimate relaxed and chilled island of Maui, Hawaii. Check out Wailea’s Makena Beach to really detach from the hustle of city life while looking cute in this ruffle strap white one-piece swimsuit by Madewell.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Tahiti, French Polynesia Picturesque Tahiti, with its clear blue lagoons during the day and starfilled skies at night, allows one to truly experience the cultural diversity in the South Pacific. Wear this reversible swimsuit set by My Marini with the option of either all black on one side of the bottoms or a tropical print when flipped inside out.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
Bali, Indonesia Flora in abundance with cheap food and friendly faces, Pisceans will really be able to hone into their creativeness because of how safe and relaxed they’ll be in Bali. Their hippie-like aura and chilled vibes will exude out even more when wearing this Julia crochet bikini by Mylo. You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers, Pixabay, and Wikimedia Commons
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designer LONDON EDGE 2 Here's the second part of our coverage from London Edge, as promised! In this ravefriendly catwalk, the brands featured included: Hearts and Roses London, Sheen, Killer Panda, Vixxsin, Chemical Black, Bye Bye Kitty, Luv Bunny's, Rockabella, Cupcake Cult, Innocent Lifestyle, Heartless, Poizen Industries, Hell Bunny, Unique Vintage, Gatsbylady, Collectif, Get Crooked, Glitz-a-matic, Phaze, Chok, Tatyana & Tailor & Twirl, Mad Pax, The Playful Pear, Retuned Limited, Bibian Blue, Joe Browns, OOTD Clothing, Alchemy, Judy Valentine, Gothx, PS Wholesale, Angry Itch, New Rock, Treasure the Funk, Kiza Von Jewel, Rainbow Tyger, and Extreme Largeness. Images by Rhiannon D'Averc
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PU
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Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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The catwalk at Pure Origin was a new addition for this season, allowing material and fabric manufacturers to showcase what they can do in terms of the textile trends we expect for 2020. The brands on show included: Adanko Knitwear, Paul James Knitwear, Yelenkci, Tre Gi SRL, Thermore, Blondy, Milenka, Gruppo Mastrotto, Fabric House, and Equi.
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FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2019 CASTING REPORT The first day of our casting for the Face of London Runway 2019 competition has come and gone, and we were treated to some unique talents. From pageant queens to roller-skating scientists, we had it all! We’ve seen a lot of potential, but there could still be someone special out there… Is it you? We’ll find out soon enough, as today (the day of issue publication) we’re holding our final session to discover who will be the Face of London Runway for the inaugural year. We’ve issued callbacks to the most promising entrants, and it looks set to be a serious showdown as we name both a menswear and a womenswear winner! The winner receives a photoshoot with their face on our cover, as well as some other goodies, so look out for that coming soon!
Images by Rabi Sultan; p111 - Rhiannon D'Averc; p112 - Jose Graca
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designer
FASHION COLLECTIVE HUB The designers at this eclectic and exciting off-schedule catwalk each had their own personality to bring to the table. They were: Maria Bustillos The Wolfe London Rehman by Sajada Rehman Okwius Frocentric The show partnered with TMA Talent Management to provide high-quality models whose walks were presided over by Maxine Griffiths of The Model Workshops London. Images by Fil Mazzarino
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Images by Fil Mazzarino
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Images by Fil Mazzarino
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION
We asked, you answered
What's your favourite place to hang out in London?
&
“I love Thai food, because I’ve been to Thailand. In Chingford, we have Patpong. They make really amazing food” – Ewa, Miss London City 2018
“Lovely Covent Garden area and Brick Lane for sure!”
“Brick Lane” – Ian Clark, photographer
– Susanna, model
“BOROUGH MARKET”
- Fil Mazzarino, photographer
“ANYWHERE IN KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SHEESHA AND GOOD FOOD” – Neish Clothing
“SHOREDITCH” – Bibi, photographer
“I love Soho and Chinatown. Peoplewatching plus delicious food, what more do you need? I take refuge in Blacks and watch it all go past the window” – Rhiannon D’Averc, Chief Editor
“National Gallery” - @interior_358
“HACKNEY WICK” – Alex Panek, graphic designer
“Regent’s Park”
– Rika Unica Jewellery
“I don’t live in London, but when I am there I normally go to Brick Lane, the V&A and Brixton market” - Louisa Kazig, graphic designer
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk Front cover: Ilaria Lepore by Jose Graca Back cover: Pure London by Fil Mazzarino