HALLOWEEN HORROR IN FASHION & BEYOND . RETAIL FORECAST . THE 1975 VS CLIMATE CHANGE . LOOKIERO
EDELINE LEE . ROBERTA EINER . LONDON PACIFIC FASHION WEEK . MARTA JAKUBOWSKI . HOUSE OF IKONS . LFW
ISSUE 43 27TH OCTOBER 2019
THE AUTUMN ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Fil Mazzarino, Hassan Saif Music Editor: Neil Dowd - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Writers - Emmie Cosgrove, Tyffaine Akkouche Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Louise Monk, Lauren Rowley, Chang Chen Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Cara Balen, Philipp Von Der Heydt, Tim van der Most, Elena Ivona, Mierijn Maria Blokzijl, Joe Bailey, Pauline Kate, Niki Jud, Christoph Marti, Heather Macgregor, D.F.T. Photography, Polina Sychich, Yuliya Stypnikova, Evgenia Musatova, Melody Herasky, Darcey Sergison, Hong Kong Designer Renaissance Foundation, Dr. Jennifer Meyer, Irina Evseenko, Ekaterina Evseenko, Alexandra Bizyukova, Steve Lily, Madelaine Jaine, Robin Fulton, Rachel Marie Hurst, Roberta Johnson, KJ Murphy, Frank MacDonald, Sergey Mironov Photos, Matvienko Hairstyle, Lolita Kir, Tamara Shuklina, TOMMYDI, Jullia Margarita Margo Igel, Irina Nezavbenna, Alexandra Chatskaya, and Anastasia Khamraeva Special thanks to Luis Bonfiglio, Alana Garcia, and Bate Nate H
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
21 VISUALS
73 WORDS
Manon Planche, Rocky Star, Push Button, Edeline Lee
7
Fashionably Frightening: Iconic Horror Looks
4
Abundant Life (Cover Editorial)
21
How Will Fashion Retail Change Over the Next Five Years?
18
New Faces
29 Halloween's Fashion History
26
Portfolio Piece
35 Dior's Feminist Manifesto
37
Bate Nate H
40 41
The Real Halloween Horror: Blackface
48
Marta Jakubowksi, Hong Kong Designer Renaissanace Foundation Miss London City 2019
44
Shocktoberfest
50
Style (Conscious) Guide
53
Between People and Nature (Editorial)
56
Vin + Omi, London Pacific Fashion Week
66
Madeleine (Editorial)
73
House of iKons, Alice Archer
82
Bright Designs (Editorial)
94
Paul Costelloe, Bobby Abley, Roberta Einer
107
Starting a Heartfelt Business, 51 Empowering Women to Overcome Health Issues & Taboos, from a Hospital Bed Lookiero: Style on Demand - A Review
54
Your Style Horoscope
90
"Stop F****** With the Kids": The 1975's Fight Against Climate Change
104
The Big Question
118
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l This issue, we’ve gone with a pink look for our cover in support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month. You will no doubt have spotted local businesses and your favourite brands going pink too – and while we’re on the subject, it’s important to remain aware of the many different cancers and how they can manifest. Always head to your doctor if you are concerned that you may be suffering from ill health, even if you are embarrassed or not convinced anything is really wrong. It’s better to be safe than sorry! Meanwhile, October is also the month dedicated to one of the most fashionable holidays: Halloween. Alright, so the vast majority of revellers may be wearing cheap costumes they bought on Amazon for under £10, but it’s possible to dream of better. Those of us who fantasise about joining Heidi Klum’s Halloween party are looking for something a little more couture. Incidentally, we’ve got some great picks for a stylish costume in our Style (Conscious) Guide, which will even be wearable year-round. We have some fantastic designers lined up for you from LFW which we weren’t
able to fit in last issue, as well as from a few other shows and events which have taken place in the last month. Don’t miss our gorgeous editorial spreads – we’ve got a bumper crop for you again this issue, and they all look just fantastic. Isn’t it exciting to see what creative minds can come up with?There’s a ton of horror-themed content for you this month, from the origins of Halloween through to some of the best spooky looks we’ve seen on the screen. Equally terrifying is climate change and how badly we seem to have messed up the planet already, but The 1975 have something to say about that in this issue’s music feature. Plus, we’re taking a look into our crystal balls to see what the future of retail might hold – and don’t worry, there’s not a single mention of Brexit. After all, what would be the point? Here we are, still waiting to find out if Halloween really will proceed as promised by BoJo. It looks increasingly unlikely. By the time our next issue is out, we’ll know. Or will we? The saga continues, with absolutely no one dying for another season-end cliffhanger and renewal. This is one show we'd like to see
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cancelled. Now, if you don’t mind me, I’m off to hit Netflix and find the spookiest films and TV shows I can. American Horror Story and The Haunting of Hill House might not solve our ecological, political, and economic problems - not to mention tackling the issues of war, hunger, and poverty which are still quietly raging in the background – but they sure are a great momentary distraction. Say, what’s the carbon footprint for binge-streaming an entire season…? Oh, right. Edgar Allan Poe stories by moonlight it is, then. Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
LONDON RUNWAY
FASHIONABLY FRIGHTENING:
ICONIC HORROR LOOKS This week Cara Balen explains why fashion is so important within the scary movie genre, and delves into some of the most iconic looks in horror history.
Not all horror movies and series rely on simply splattering as much blood and gore as they can onto our screens, and not all scary scenes need jump-scares and things that go bump in the night. Sometimes the best horror moments come from the artistry created by a subtle blend of disturbing cinematography and fashion flair. Personally, I find that it is these types of horror flicks that interest me the most because the scariness is not always obvious or conspicuous. The sense of dread and unease that is prompted by the aesthetics of the screen lurks behind every jump-cut, close up, and piece of dialogue, because clever costuming and thematic photography remains a constant throughout each film. That is why fashion is so important in the world of thrillers and horror. It can make the audience squirm with disgust or spark up their curiosity without uttering a single word. So, to celebrate Halloween in style, here are some of my favourite iconic horror looks that have
been featured on our screens. (Warning: there may be spoilers ahead!) AMERICAN HORROR STORY: Myrtle Snow When thinking about aesthetically pleasing horror, AHS always comes to mind. Somehow the directors Ryan Murphy and Brad Falchuk create artwork with gore and guts, and manage to make the frightening look beautiful. Fashion plays a huge role in the storytelling of this series, whether through the infamous skull face worn by Tate in Murder House, or the iconic all black attire sported by the witches in Coven. However, one of the archetypal looks from the show has to be that of Myrtle Snow. From her frizzy curtain of vivid ginger hair down to her leather gloves, Snow always steals the scene with her eclectic mix of clashing fashion items. Yet, her most show-stopping look is comparatively simple: a flowing red dress paired with red lacey gloves and black shades. Contrasted with the beige background and the black mourning clothes of those around her, Myrtle Snow stands out like the very flames that will soon bring forth her execution. The red dress
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mirrors the previous white one she wore to her first burning, which serves to represent the blood which Myrtle now has on her hands, unlike before when she was innocent. If anyone has doubts that this is an iconic fashion moment, they just have to listen to her inexplicable yet somehow fitting last words: ‘Balenciaga!’, before the flames engulf her already fiery attire. What an icon!
LONDON RUNWAY
SILENCE OF THE LAMBS: Buffalo Bill It would be remiss of me not to mention, in an article about horror movie fashion, a movie that creates its horror out of just that: fashion. And no, I am not about to suggest that we should consider Buffalo Bill’s skin suit an iconic piece of fashion – that would be quite worrying! But it is worth looking at the way in which director Jonathan Demme creates eerie suspense by contrasting Buffalo Bill’s hippie-like attire with his revolting murderous acts. The audience is subjected to close up shots of Bill’s body, including his ‘love’ tattoo, whilst the film intermittently cuts to shots of one of his victims screaming in the basement. The juxtaposition of ‘peace and love’ clothing and the sheer violence he commits causes us to squirm in a way that the typical slasher mask never will. Here, fashion is used to show Bill’s disturbing mindset as it gives us a glimpse into what lies beneath his twisted façade. I would argue that it has set a precedent for scary movies which use fashion to unexpectedly add to the horror, rather than simply pouring blood on the clothes of its murderers and villains.
STOKER: India Stoker If you have seen Stoker then you’ll
know what a perverse and peculiar film it is. But you will also have seen how director Park Chan-Wook plays with the cinematography of each scene to create intense yet beautiful shots. It is as if each frame could be a piece of art. Much like Silence of the Lambs, Stoker uses fashion items, namely shoes, as a focal point for the creepy storyline. In a moment of creative genius, Park matches up the opening and closing scene in a way that distorts the audience’s expectations. What we assume to be an innocent woman, India Stoker, looking at red flowers, is in fact a violent killer who has doused white flowers in blood.
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It is here that we have an iconic horror look. India has created her outfit out of pieces that she has collected throughout the film’s process: her father’s belt tied around her mother’s blouse, and shoes given to her by her uncle. Each item had a role in the wickedness played out on our screens, such as the belt used to strangle her sexually violent date or shoes that represent her uncle’s obsessive tendencies towards her. Stoker shows how everyday clothing can become infected by the horror that surrounds them, imbuing them with a kind of symbolism that will make even the strongest person shiver.
LONDON RUNWAY SCREAM QUEENS: Chanel Oberlin The world of comedy horror is also worth a mention on this list, as fashion can often serve to add something unexpected and therefore comical. The scream mask from Scary Movie comes to mind, or the striped suit and green hair combination made famous by Beetlejuice. But for me, nothing can top the self-proclaimed ‘goddess of fashion and telling it like it is’: Chanel Oberlin. Scream Queens combines goofy jokes, witty punchlines, and slapstick with overt violence and dreadful mystery. The chic cherry on top of the cake comes in the form of Chanel, the meanspirited anti-heroine. All of her looks are iconic, as it is hard to argue that she shouldn’t be praised for maintaining her runway ready style even when hiding a dead body. Such a contrast between her pristine outfit and grotesque corpses is a source of hilarious black comedy. Yet, I have chosen this particular look, as she is walking through her protesters, because it showcases the way in which Chanel pairs glam with attitude. Looking pretty in pink with what appears to be Dior earrings, a Georges Hobeika dress, and Valentino heels, Chanel shows that she can pull off a classy look even when being embroiled in a murder scandal. EL LABERINTO DEL FAUNO: Pale Man For the last iconic look, I wanted to include a nod towards the incredibly talented special effects and prosthetics makeup artists, without which we would not have horror as we know it today. Guillermo del Toro has created masterpieces which centre on such special effects, and whilst it is up for debate whether El Laberinto Del Fauno (Pan’s Labyrinth) is a horror movie in the traditional sense, it would be wrong to ignore such a giant in the sphere of movie monsters and creatures.
Special effects artist Arjen Tuiten and costume designer Lala Huete really pulled this character straight out of the darkest depths of their imaginations, showing how a little bit of movie magic and a lot of prosthetics can transform someone into something that looks like it comes from Hell itself!
Regardless of whether the film itself is a scary movie, one cannot deny that one of its antagonists, the Pale Man, is absolutely terrifying. Perhaps one of the quintessential fantasy monsters, the Pale Man’s design incorporates the stuff of nightmares. With his hanging translucent skin, bloody mouth and protruding ribs he instils fear in the audience – and that is without mentioning his utterly blood-curdling eyes sitting in his bony hands.
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You can find out more about Cara’s work by following @BalenCara on Twitter. All images are stills via their respective studios.
LONDON RUNWAY
MANON PLANCHE
Photography by Philipp Von Der Heydt
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LONDON RUNWAY
ROCKY STAR Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
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PUSH BUTTON Images by Fil Mazzarino
EDELINE LEE Images by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
HOW WILL RETAIL CHANGE OVER THE NEXT 5 YEARS?
DEAF HAVANA © Joe Singh
In this article, Emmie Cosgrove discusses and explores how retail might change over the next halfdecade. If I ever decide to physically go shopping, I’ll usually make a day out of it. Meet up with a few friends and stroll around Oxford Street popping in and out of stores. I’ll rediscover my love for feeling materials between my fingers, but still hate the fact that if I like something, I’ll have to queue for a changing room and go through the hassle of trying clothes on in store. Going shopping for me is rare now. Most things I buy are online. If I’m writing an article, or watching a film, I have the choice to browse for items online. I can decide how quickly I want them delivered and try them on in my room when they arrive. No queue needed. If they don’t fit, I’ll send them back. The last time I made a day out of shopping, it was also impossible
not to notice the increasing amount of ‘closing down sale’ signs, taped in red across multiple shop windows. The way we shop is changing and it is changing at a rapid pace. As consumers, we may not even realise this. In 2014, I hated shopping online. I’d make sure to go out to market stalls, charity shops and well known retailers such as Primark or Topshop if I fancied a new outfit. Each brick and motor store felt like its own community in a way. I was a part of that brand as soon as I stepped through the shop door or headed over to a certain stall at a market. However, online shopping has taken over. The retail industry has always had to adapt to change. This time it’s digital. Technology is constantly advancing and in order for retailers to be successful they need to use technology to their advantage. Even our customer wants and needs are different.
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Everything must be seamless and the customer is the focus, not the products. If brick and mortar retailers want to survive in this climate, they need to provide a seamless shopping experience and use technology to provide this. If they don’t, there is a chance they’ll be the next store taping up closing down signs into their windows. It’s the harsh reality of the retail environment. Though some brick and motor stores will be able to adapt and survive, from 2014 to now there have already been some major changes in retail. So, what could happen in the next five years?
LONDON RUNWAY
Changing rooms, without having to get changed Trying on clothes will always be my least favourite part of shopping. Though if you’re in a store and able to try on clothes and have a large selection of items, you might as well. Sometimes it’s easier to see how clothes fit you and know if they don’t, there is going to be no return process. On, off and either in the basket or back on the shelf. However, at times the queues for the changing room can be so exhaustingly long that you end up putting all your items back or taking them home and hoping they fit right so you don’t have to head back up to the store to return them. For many people, as well, not being able to try on clothes that you order online and not seeing how a certain clothing would fit on you, is one of the main drawbacks of online shopping. Certain retailers such as Adidas are currently trialing various technology solutions so customers will be able to virtually try on clothing. Having these virtual changing rooms will help decrease the waiting times for changing rooms. It will also have many benefits for e-commerce brands. Imagine shopping on ASOS and being able to try on their clothing from the comfort of your own room. My favourite brands are texting me The more certain you are in your personal style and what your likes and dislikes are when it comes to fashion and clothing choices, the more likely you are to have those brands you keep going back to. With various data analytics and how easily accessible our personal information is due to all our online and social media profiles, the brands you keep shopping at know you’re a frequent customer, even if they’re an e-commerce retailer. These retailers can even get an idea of what your personal style is and what type of products you’re more likely to buy. If there is a new product range they know you’ll like, you will most likely get an email from them about this new range. Brands can communicate with their customers in a more personal way. Even big high street retailers that don’t have a website you can shop through or are far more popular for their physical
stores are able to gather customer data in order to digitally communicate with customers. Over the next 5 years, we, as consumers, will definitely see an increase of this. More retailers will be able to text us about upcoming deals, and provide personalized discounts. If it’s your birthday in a few days a brand you like will have this information and be able to use this to their advantage to give you for instance a 50% off birthday discount. However, if you’re getting discounts and promotions from your favourite brand it feels like a win-win situation. It’s all sustainable 2019 has been a year with one of the biggest focuses on the environment. The retail industry has a worryingly high carbon footprint and produces a lot of CO2. Fast fashion keeps getting faster and faster. We shop more than we ever have before and fast fashion up has come at a cost. That cost is the environment. Thankfully, conversations about the environment and the concerns we have towards it are being heard. Environmental activism has become one of the biggest movements and the
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giants of the retail industry are noticing this. A lot of retailers are trying to find ways to reduce their carbon footprint. Instead of using new materials, retailers are focusing on using recycled materials and fabrics to make their products which means recycling isn’t going to waste. If you live in the congestion zone and order from brands such as ASOS, they make sure the van they’re delivering your products in are electric fueled vans rather than ones that run off petrol. We also have brands that are becoming increasingly popular like Lucy and Yak that put sustainability at the forefront of their brand. More and more retailers are taking action and being environmentally conscious, and sustainability in fashion and retail will continue to grow over the next five years. Shopping: it’s about you, not what you’re buying Instead of focusing on promoting products, and the products being the focus of brand marketing and consumerism, we now live in a time where it is all about the customer. Retailers are using digital communication and combining people’s
LONDON RUNWAY love for technology and the classic shopping experience to create a seamless shopping experience that puts a massive focus on the customer.
goods, the communication and brand reminders and promotions and discounts you can get make it feel so personal.
Before, in retail, it was the product that was the focus. If a new product was launched you’d hear about it on TV, sales associates may mention it in store, you’d seen an advert for it on Facebook and could choose if you’d rather order the product you’ve seen advertised online or in store. If you were lucky the website might have an in store click and collect option too. If you added this product to your basket and didn’t order it, you might get one email reminding you to purchase the product. That would be it.
It’s no longer the brand’s products that are at their heart, but it’s you. The customer. Brands want you to have a seamless shopping experience with no clogs in the way. They make you feel as if by shopping with them and having a flawless shopping experience, you’ll be far more loyal to said brand. You feel at one with them. As customers, we thrive off this feeling of exclusivity and love it when brands make us feel a part of them. The seamless shopping experience and the customer being the focus of the brand has created a shift in what we want as customers and will continue to be the way we like brands to treat us and how we want to shop.
Currently, you can go into a store, try stuff on and order it online. If you shopped through a certain brand’s website, add a product to your basket and didn’t check out, you could drive past that brand’s brick and mortar store and get a text saying that the product you didn’t actually buy can also be bought in that store. Though this still counts as product promotion and is a way to get consumers to purchase
Though five years may not seem like a long time in the grand scheme of things, our consumer behavior changes so quickly that retail has no choice but to change with it. It can feel scary when thinking about how advanced technology has become and how this has impacted the way we shop and
think about shopping and fashion. However, combining technology with retailers focus on sustainability means over the next five years there could be some really beneficial changes in the retail environment. It’s exciting to think about and as a consumer, thinking about how you shop and the change you’ve noticed in retail is a really interesting avenue to explore. You can read more of Emmie’s work over on Twitter @stylesemmie Illustration previous page by Joe Bailey. This page by Pauline Kate. Other images via Pixabay and Unsplash
ABUNDANT LIFE In support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, we've turned our front cover pink. We couldn't have done it without designer Luis Bonfiglio, who put together his new collection including a pink dress especially for the occasion.
Designer: Luis Bonfiglio Photographer: Tim van der Most Hair & Makeup Artist: Elena Ivona Model: Mierijn Maria Blokzijl Wardrobe throughout: All items Luis Bonfiglio
Candice brings you back through the fashion archives of Halloween to discover where all the masked goblins and bedsheet ghosts began and how it came to be what it is today. With Samhain, the Celtic day of the dead Autumn Festival, as its roots, Halloween has branched out and evolved into a bunch of variations across the globe. In 1840s America, where the notorious (and sometimes outrageous) Halloween celebrations are most associated with, this festive day was shaped by the European influences that came into the infant nation. With little festive differences, each country has its ways of celebrating the departed all while looking fabulous or ghoulishly terrifying! As the first day of the Celtic New Year, Samhain marked that transitional border between seasons and between the living and the dead. This usually fell on the full moon closest to the first day of November, after the completion of the harvest.Â
Celebrations similar to what we associate as Halloween today would be undertaken on the eve of Samhain, October 31st. Bonfires would be lit to deter the spirits away as well as call on Celtic deities, oftentimes with livestock sacrifices used. The tradition of trickor-treating came from playful and mischievous Celts dressing up as spirits and going from house to house doing silly acts for donations of foods or drinks. With the belief that the spirits were wandering around at night, people also disguised themselves in feathers and furs to remain undetected. Masks and blackened faces (not to be confused with blackface) were done to impersonate deceased ancestors, and some of the younger men and women are believed to have even crossdressed, which we are all here for! Some other traditions included those of match-making with women bobbing for apples or tossing peels in hopes that their future love life would be revealed to them. With more organic ways of meeting a significant other, as well as other unconventional means (Tinder, Hinge, and etc.), we, luckily, don’t need to depend on these superstitions as wholeheartedly anymore.
All Hallows’ Day or All Saints’ Day transformed and blended with Samhain when Christian leaders took over, but many of the traditions remained the same. All Soul’s Day, the churchsanctioned holiday, was celebrated on November 2nd with people in costumes ranging from saints and angels to devils, but All Hallows Eve, the day before Samhain, came to officially be known as Halloween.
webs, fake spiders, and more wild Halloween decorations as they compete for the spookiest house on the block. Halloween is a serious deal in America. Not to say that America is the only country that celebrates Halloween, but the scales are definitely incomparable.
The now termed “trick-or-treating” is a classic nostalgia for many Americans, including myself, and other youths. Instead of food and drinks, candy is the In the 1800s, when the Irish-American main offering now, with even more immigration really boomed, Halloween generous donators occasionally giving traditions crossed the seas into the still- out cash. A quarter of all candy sold in developing nation and left their the U.S is purchased for celebrating permanent marks. Intertwining with the Halloween. Isn’t that astounding?! traditions of the indigenous people, a distinctly American Halloween Some of the most popular costume emerged. characters are those of witches, vampires, ghosts, and a plethora of animals. As television became more Ghost stories were shared across fires influential, more and more people and the usual mischievous ways of the would dress up as their favourite youngsters continued. Although the original pagan festivities of bonfires and celebrities or animated characters. The rise in meme culture brought in more apple-bobbing matchmaking are less ridiculous costumes, such as laughing focal to the festivities now, the influences are still apparent in modern- emojis and actual memes. You will even be able to find people with a plain white day traditions. As time progressed, the tee with the word “costume” written celebrations and costumes became more elaborate in America, which drew across it. The possibilities are endless. its influences from Europe, as well as Additionally, there are also extreme Mexico’s El Dio de Los Muertos. contrasts between similar costume options. You can find a cute black cat An estimate of $9 billion was spent on costume with a simple all-black Halloween in America in 2018, with ensemble and drawn-on whiskers costumes making up a good chunk of and ears to a barely-there or all leather that. Houses are decked out in spider
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cat dominatrix situation. There’s even a sexy variant for a Ronald McDonald costume, which is deeply disturbing in and of itself. The variety is mind-boggling. With so many decisions and people throwing elaborate Halloween bashes and celebrations, costume parties are ongoing throughout all of Halloween with a giant parade usually capping the month off on the actual Halloween day of October 31st. It isn’t uncommon for many to start costume searching weeks, if not months, in advance, spending upwards of 50 dollars or more. The youth were also more commonly known to dress up for Halloween, but you see more and more adults donning their spooky garments now as well. For all the haters that say, “You’re too old for Halloween and trick-ortreating,” forget them! You’re never too old to celebrate, so get those vampire fangs or Spongebob Squarepants overalls and show them off! Only having been around for the past hundred years or so, these costumes are definitely more light-hearted and less religiously influenced compared to their origins. Regardless of whether you’re trying to scare off the haunting spirits or just want some free candy, it’s a festive time to enjoy yourself for a night of being something or someone else! If you have your own traditions, let us know what they are! Tweet us your costumes or tag us @londonrunwaymag! You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Images via Instagram, Amazon, Unsplash, and Wikimedia Commons
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name:Â Niki Jud Age: 21 Location: Zurich Agency: Option Model Agency How long have you been modelling for? 7 years Where are you from originally? Zurich, Switzerland
What would surprise people to know about you? My name is inspired by French/Swiss painter and sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle What are your modelling ambitions? I enjoy new experiences and would love to work with as many people in different locations on different jobs as possible.
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can make a squeaky sound exactly like a guinea pig, and I can roll my upper lip up until it completly closes my nostrils.
Model: Niki Jud at Option Model Agency Zurich Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name:Â Heather Macgregor Age: 53 Location: Sidney, BC Canada Agency: Silver Fox Management LA
What would surprise people to know about you? I can snowboard and skateboard. Longboard is my most favorite.
How long have you been modelling for? I used to model back in my twenties and just back into it again this year.
What are your modelling ambitions? To walk in the London Fashion Week and to be in a beauty ad campaign. I want to inspire women of all ages.
Where are you from originally? Born in Vancouver, BC but my family moved to Edmonton, AB when I was younger, raised mostly there. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can moonwalk
Model: Heather Macgregor @heatherlmacgregor Photographer: D.f.t. Photography @d.f.t.photography
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name:Â Polina Sychich Age:Â 17 Location: Russia Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I love taking pictures, but this is my fourth professional photo shoot so far.
What would surprise people to know about you? I never watched Harry Potter :) What are your modelling ambitions? Of course, I would really like to be on the cover of Vogue.
Where are you from originally? I live in Sarapul, Udmurt Repablic of Russia. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I love to draw and have been doing creativity since childhood.
Makeup Artist: Yuliya Stypnikova @yuliya_stypnikova Model: Polina Sychich @_polllllllly Photographer: Evgeniya Musatova @Evgezha_musatova
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PORTFOLIO PIECE DETONATION` Illustrator: Melody Hesaraky @Melody Hesaraky
Music has created impetus and inspiration for this series of my fashion illustrations. I wished to produce a pure and transcendental art form and not just use a familiar image! I use music as an analogy or metaphor in my designs and artistic expression. By listening to music and emulating it in my work, I have discovered unconventional techniques in my pattern designs and art-making approach. Like music, my work was created from the depth of my inner self and the purest way to express this is letting the rhythm lead what I draw.
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These fashion illustrations are visually communicating the magic of music. You can perhaps dream without words and fly through time and space without moving by looking at them. Some of them were created in different music venues while listening to the music and some are the results of remembering that experience.
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DIOR’S FEMINIST MANIFESTO This week, Darcey Sergison explores how Maria Grazia Chiuri has made Dior a force of feminist power and how her collections have given a voice to feminist protest.
Fashion has long been a political statement. Whether intentionally political or adopted as a political symbol, this has accorded with colours and clothes for decades. However, recently there has been a rise in the use of fashion as having intended political meaning. Feminists have been a driving force behind this, in the use of the clothes and the runway as political protest.
PRINTED T-SHIRT IN COTTON AND LINEN
"WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINISTS" PRINT T-SHIRT IN COTTON AND LINEN
Maria Grazia Chiuri has joined this force, as the current Creative Director at Dior has reimagined femininity and given voice to many feminist narratives. Despite feminists arguing that women should not rely on clothes to create an identity, Maria Grazia Chiuri has shown how fashion can be reclaimed as not something that objectifies women but instead can empower them and be used to show a message. Whether this be a slogan or a colour, fashion is now a feminist weapon. Since the rise of the alt right in today’s politics, seen in the Brexit vote and the election of Donald Trump as the US President, this has questioned the security of women’s rights and the search for equality. This has led many to protest these outcomes and fight for their right to equality. Fashion has been a mechanism for this. In particular, Maria Grazia Chiuri has consistently incorporated feminist imagery and slogans into her collections. As the first female artistic director she has represented the female voice within this established fashion house, and in doing so has put feminism as a priority in her collections, partly with the use of slogans. Despite incorporating the classic feminine silhouettes of the clenched in waist and flowing skirts, Maria has added feminist slogan t-shirts into the mix. Maria’s arguably most recognised piece includes her ‘we should all be feminists’ t-shirt from her first collection. This slogan being the title of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s famous essay discussing what it is to be a feminist today. Dior incorporating works like these into their collections shows an alliance with empowering women through fashion, rather than pitting them against one another as is often illustrated in this industry. The Chanel Spring 2015 collection was the start of the latest wave of feminist protests entering the runway. The runway was now to be seen as a space for declarations for or against the politics of the time. Hence, this illustrates how creative directors of different fashion houses can incorporate their causes with their fashion, making political statements on the runway.
"WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINISTS" T-SHIRT
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As part of Dior’s transformation as a feminist brand, we can also consider the models which Maria chooses to represent her brand. Modern feminists call for complete representation of all women, including those of different races. This has been reflected on the runway as well as in campaigns. Although in the future, diversity should only increase on the runway. But with the clear use of slogans as being crucial to Maria’s collection, her call for a Dior Revolution has clearly been seen in her works. This is particularly clear in the Fall 2019 campaign: Sisterhood is Powerful. Having co-founded the Sisterhood is Global Institute, with the prominent feminist writer Simone de Beauvoir, the campaign aims at bringing attention to grass root activists on issues such as human trafficking, showing solidarity with women across the globe. With campaign images reflecting popular ‘we can do it’ posters, Maria uses this collection as more than just a fashion statement but also a feminist statement. Dior is now above the high fashion world as it has incorporated Maria’s authentic passion for feminism.
"THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH" EMBROIDERED T-SHIRT
Overall, fashion has a past of being a political symbol but now with modern feminism has been adopted as a political statement. With clothes now used as an empowering statement, whether that be through exposure or modesty, feminism and fashion can now be an alliance. Runways are extending protest barriers from the streets to different spheres. Feminism is adopting the power of fashion as a political statement, meaning every day your choice of fashion is making a statement about you - so choose wisely.
LONDON RUNWAY
BATE NATE H Photography by Hassan Saif
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Our photographer Hassan Saif was there to capture the moment when Bate Nate H took to Oxford Street in promotion of his upcoming album. Bringing with him an actual giant snake, there was no chance he wasn't going to turn heads. Watch this space, and make sure to follow @batenateh for updates...
LONDON RUNWAY
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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HONG KONG DESIGNER RENAISSANCE FOUNDATION
LOOM LOOP, 112 MOUNTAINYAM, YEUNG CHIN AND FROM ANOTHER PLANETS Images via DRF
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MISS LONDON CITY 2019 Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
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THE REAL HALLOWEEN HORROR:
BLACKFACE This week, Tyffaine Akkouche explores the horror of blackface, speaking to Alana Garcia about the violent online harassment she experienced when outing a group who performed the outdated practice. Once upon a time, one may have claimed ignorance. They didn’t know better, so how can they act better? But in the age of technology, where a news story from China can reach Europe quicker than you can say ‘globalisation’, there is simply no excuse for ignorance. The knowledge is there for the taking, and if you don’t act accordingly to society’s progression against racism and towards better general treatment of others, then it’s very simple: Racism is your choice
Thankfully, most of us can now recognise how catastrophically disgusting this was. However, there are still incidences of blackface in this modern day. Some think it is the perfect Halloween costume, but the only thing scary about them is the vast empty space where their brain is supposed to be.
Blackface is a practice that was started in the 19th Century, and should frankly have stayed there. It was a form of entertainment where white people would paint their faces black with oil or paint and accentuate their lips, essentially creating a caricature of a black person. It was a huge catalyst to help spread negative racial stereotypes and became a branch of comedy performance in itself.
Images via WikiMedia Commons
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We spoke to Alana Garcia, who recently outed a group of girls who wore blackface as part of a Spanish school dance competition, about her opinion on racism in today’s society. The identity of the girls at fault and their school will be protected for legal reasons.
LONDON RUNWAY How did you react to seeing this group of girls doing blackface on your social media? A friend showed me a screenshot of the girls in blackface. I reached out to them straight away and explained why this was wrong. I sent them an article and advised they deleted it. I have seen this so many times before, in particular with Spanish people and in their culture they don’t see what is wrong with it, refusing to take any responsibility. How did these particular girls react when you outed them? Some ignored it, others laughed. Then all of a sudden they were harassing me, threatening me with a lawsuit and warning me they would go to the police if I didn’t apologise for calling them racist. They were also insulting me in a very personal way, saying I didn’t have anything better to do and my life must be boring - I only did this because I wanted to let others know that it is not okay to do blackface and that you must be held accountable for your actions. What was their defence for their actions? They said they needed to do blackface because they were doing an African dance and not doing blackface would negate the existence of black people and diversity. I found out about the dance competition, the theme was dances from around the world and many schools were involved in cultural appropriation and mockery of these countries. One group did Samba and dressed as Brazillian girls - including brown face and using pillows to exaggerate their butts and breasts. Do you think these girls can claim ignorance in this case? I think they just wanted to do blackface and have a laugh, if they didn’t know it was offensive they could have apologised and deleted the photos as no one likes to upset others... but they were too proud to apologise and went after me instead. How common is blackface in Spain? Honestly, it is quite common, but at this point there is no excuse for this behaviour. We live in a globally connected society, if you are
ignorant you are doing it out of choice. Black history is not on the curriculum. However if your school won’t teach you about it the media will, the internet will - these girls are adults and need to be aware of their white privilege and inform themselves about issues that don’t affect them. What do you think needs to be done to change this dysfunctional part of society? I think we need to start holding our friends accountable, using our social media to spread the knowledge everyone needs to have. I am also very disappointed in this school for allowing this to happen- they should be raising their students to be positive members of society. I also think at this moment a lot of people are trying to profit from black culture - we can take inspiration from others but we need to give credit where credit is due. The only way we can respectfully admire and use aspects of black culture is if we collectively start fighting for their rights to make sure their community has the same opportunities as everyone else. It seems unfair that a white person can appropriate a black person’s culture, wanting all the cool parts about being black without actually being black and dealing with the daily issues they face.
shocktoberfest Photography by Ian Clark
STARTING A HEARTFELT BUSINESS, EMPOWERING WOMEN TO OVERCOME HEALTH ISSUES & TABOOS, FROM A HOSPITAL BED Dr Jennifer Meyer explains the circumstances that led her from agony to entrepreneurship, and a new book for women.
Search @DrJenniferMeyer on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram Agony. Bloodbath. Ambulance.
Ta-da (spoiler alert), I made it.
Words fit for the birthday that led me starting a new business helping women.
The next morning, I’m woozy and make a promise: I am finally going to write that empowering book on bladder health. I start making notes on the back of an envelope, which is all I can get hold of from my hospital bed.
It’s 4am the morning of my birthday. I’m on holiday alone in Spain, sitting on the loo, my derriere numb and imprinted with the toilet seat. The pain is intensifying with each strangled breath; I feel as if my bladder is going to birth itself: cystitis has struck again. When the emergency doctor finally gets to me, she calls for an ambulance right away. It’s bad, I know that, it’s frighteningly obvious from the pools of blood parading my bathroom like a crime scene. I’m rushed to the emergency department in Benidorm hospital. I feel in safe hands and they nurse me for four days. I’m released without antibiotics and told to fly back to the UK once the bleeding stops. Back at home now, I’m fitting on the sofa, unable to breathe, as my mum calls for an ambulance. I have sepsis. The urinary tract infection was not treated well enough and has spread to my blood. Delirious I may be, but I still hear the doctor tell my mum that I may not make it through the night, as it depends if the antibiotics get to work on time.
I’m overjoyed to tell you that I kept that promise. The book is called Piss to Bliss and will be out on the 15th November 2019 on Amazon. The book is a start to the business of globally making a difference in women’s lives. Piss to Bliss is the first in an upcoming women’s health and empowerment book series. It will be followed by the non-explicit version Yip-Pee specifically aimed at girls and young teenagers. There is also an intense online course and Facebook challenges. I’m doing public talks in the UK and the US. If, like me, you have been talked down to by medics, have been seen as a drama queen on bladder issues, then let me just make this clear: Cystitis caused by an infection can be life-threatening. A UTI is a big deal.
Images via Dr Jennifer Meyer
LONDON RUNWAY Having your life ruined by chronic bladder inflammation is a big deal.
man invented them, gathering power with each person who feeds it.
In the book I describe how there are 25 different types of cystitis and offer surprising solutions to overcoming pain and gaining bladder health.
All we can do is unplug ourselves and regain our part of the energy that powered it.
Speak out and get the proper help. I’m passionate about breaking taboos affecting women and overcoming certain health issues, especially those linked with body shaming, low selfesteem and depression. Health and wellness are not just physical, they affect all of our levels including mental, emotional, spiritual and social. It’s time to break taboos around women and liberate ourselves from the social shackles. What do I mean by that? Great question. A taboo is something, a subject, a thought, a belief, an idea, an action, a rule, that we are told to suppress, to hide, to sweep under the carpet, something that one just doesn’t talk about. It is considered rude, embarrassing, offensive, dirty, against the norm, frowned upon, judged, or just plain wrong. It is also a belief that has been socially accepted, sometimes without question, or a cultural or traditional ideal that, in my opinion, no longer serves us. Breaking taboos means calling them out. Naming them, exploring them, understanding what they mean and how they may affect us. Then, if we decide we no longer wish to be a part of that taboo, we unlock the chain that binds us to it. We shed the shackle and walk away for good. So, breaking a taboo is calling it to attention so we know what we are dealing with. Liberating ourselves from its shackle is making a conscious decision that we are no longer tied down by that outmoded belief. We don’t destroy the taboos themselves as we are not able to. They are powerful entities that have been around since
One of the taboos that I break in detail in Piss to Bliss is the one that women need to be ladylike; don’t cuss; don’t sweat; don’t fart; their poo smells like roses; must not have body or facial hair; must take a man’s name in marriage; must not discuss their periods or cystitis in public; must hide their body. Enough!
Double standards have gone on long enough between men and women. By being true to yourself, loud for you stand for, proud for who you are: you find strength. By accepting our body as it is right now, we empower ourselves to make changes. By leaving the past behind including all of its shackles, we strive forward with earnest momentum to creating our most vibrant life.
Be authentically you, and know that you are brilliantly enough. Boom (Mike drop).
Linguistic Clues I’m fascinated with words and the magic behind them. Our ancestors left clues in our language to help us understand the bridge between metaphysical and physical.
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In the book I explain how certain phrases and emotions have links to our bladder. For example, we say: I’m pissed off /peeved; to denote irritation or anger. Getting bladdered; to mean drinking too much alcohol. I woudn’t piss on you if you were on fire; exclaiming hatred or extreme anger. Pissing on someone’s grave; shows real disrespect. I go in detail in the book about the linguistic clues and how emotions and certain blockages can affect our bladder health. You may be surprised that, in my opinion, the following are all linked to our bladders: frustration, irritation, anger, abuse, disrespect, secrets, poverty beliefs and inauthenticity. I invite you on a journey to happy bladder health and a powerful selfesteem. Coming? Piss to Bliss: Fed up with cystitis, chronic bladder pain & women’s health issues ruining your life? Welcome to the empowering Happy Bladder Book, by Dr Jennifer Meyer. Join the journey at DrJMeyer.com
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc
Grande Fedora Mu Du £88.00
The Capulet Brimstone £100.00
Magic Sky Velvet Swan Kimono Black Milk AU$169.00 Mens Sequin Black Lightning Bolt Blazer Suit Jacket Phix Clothing on ASOS Marketplace £240
Anais Black Silk Scarf Yolke £60.00
MOOR Sleeveless Zip Waistcoat in Midnight Blue Deploy £135.00 Mens Black Starman Velvet Star Shirt Phix Clothing on ASOS Marketplace £75.00
Night Sky Trousers in Black Kelly Love £220.00
Elissa 100 Lamperti Milano £219.00
Corduroy Trousers Slim Fit H&M Conscious £24.99
Velour Loafers H&M Conscious £24.99
HALLOWEEN MAGIC PAGE 53
LOOKIERO: STYLE ON DEMAND – A Review Chief Editor Rhiannon D’Averc recently tried out Lookiero. Here’s what she had to say about the experience. Lookiero, if you haven’t seen the endless ads on your Facebook and Instagram feeds, is an online styling service. Each month – or sooner, or less often, depending on your preferences – you get a parcel in the post with a selection of items that your stylist thinks you will like If you do, great – just keep them. You can even get a discount for keeping them all. And if you don’t, pop them back in the post for return. It costs £10 a month for your package to arrive, which you can redeem against the price of your items should you choose to keep any of them. However, the first month is free – and with a seasonal offer coming into play right after my first try, I managed to get two deliveries at no cost. That was more than enough to assess the service and come up with a few thoughts about how it all went.
Package One The first package was very exciting, full of expectation and hope. I had no idea what to expect, so I was looking forward to finding out what it would be like. It arrived promptly as predicted, a large box delivered to my door. On opening it up, I found clothes carefully wrapped and stacked between sheets of tissue paper, with a large plastic bag for shipping the unwanted items back. Not the most eco-friendly solution – and a bit of a waste, given that they already came in perfectly good packaging – but there doesn’t seem to be an option to turn down the plastic. I unwrapped each one, laying them out and... not feeling particularly excited. One after the other, I laid out cheap fabrics and dubious cuts.
I’d filled out a whole survey before the delivery detailing what kind of style I preferred and what I would and wouldn’t wear – what kind of selection was this? Most of them didn’t look much better on. They were ugly and had no shape to them at all – and the fabrics were scratchy. Not at all what I was expecting. Two of them didn’t even fit correctly. And given that I had told them all my sizings as well as what I did and didn’t want to draw attention to on my body, the choices just made little sense. I sent the whole package back. I wouldn’t have been tempted to try again if I hadn’t received the second box for free as well.
Package Two This package didn’t fill me with as much excitement. I had requested a new stylist when placing my order, which is something that you can do whenever you don’t feel happy with the results. Still, I wasn’t expecting much. When it came, I could see right away that the options they had left me were a bit better than last time. There was a jumper, which is one of my essential items (I have probably over the region of twenty hanging up in my wardrobe), a nice shirt, and a faux croc leather skirt that looked pretty interesting. In the trying, I wasn’t as impressed with most of the items. The jumper was thin and scratchy, and the shirt had no shape to it. There seems to be a repeating pattern with their choices – there’s a certain low quality to the clothes, all of which seem to be high street brands with the exception of one or two
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higher-priced items. Out of this box, I actually really liked two of the garments. One was that croc skirt, which was actually completely different to anything I would have chosen for myself – and yet I really liked it. The other was a blue dress with a fun cheetah print, which was really promising. However, after searching online, I found out that the brand was selling it quite significantly cheaper than Lookiero had priced it. With the skirt being priced the same as the manufacturer, I decided to keep that one and send the rest back. At £30, it would have taken the £20 credit I would have saved up if I’d been paying for the delivery. I would still be looking at a great deal for the two months of service and one garment, but it is a little bit tedious trying on and then returning almost everything both times.
The end verdict? I don’t think I’ll be trying them again. Unless I’m really bored and really busy somehow at the same time, and want some new clothes but don’t have time to shop. To be honest, the only benefit here is the time saved not browsing online stores for hours at a time to find what you want – and that benefit pales when you don’t get what you want anyway.
Further info on Lookiero: Each box contains: Items chosen by your personal stylist Styling cards demonstrating how your garments could be worn A return bag and order document for your returns A note from your stylist Cost: £10 per delivery, or free for your first month and during special discount periods Website: lookiero.co.uk Read more of Rhiannon’s work at twitter.com/rhiannondaverc
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Between People and Nature Hello, dear London Runway readers! We created this photoshoot with big love for Britain and its traditions. We used native vintage items to show the honour and royalty of Britain. And we want to show the beauty of union between people and nature. The location of the photoshoot is a very unique stable. They buy sick and weak horses and give them a new life, full with love and freedom. And the fields that you see in the photos are all for the horses, dogs and people in harmony. Isn’t it a dream?
Wardrobe Stylist/Model: Irina Evseenko @evseenko_style_project Model: Ekaterina Evseenko Photographer: Alexandra Bizyukova @sashabizzph Wardrobe throughout: Clothes by Mango and Zara, Jewellery by Vintage Atelier , Hats by H&M
Vin+Omi
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Photography by Ian Clark
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LONDON PACIFIC FASHION WEEK Photography by Steve Lily. Brands: Kenny Ng Kee Beng, Weaverdream, Fierce Fashion Collection by RL. Guma Ge'la-Guahan, Itatie, Pomahina Designs, U'anga
Hair Stylist: Gemma Hector Makeup Artist: Huma Tahir Creative Director: Ana Lavekau Models: Hollie Onslow-Cole, Halimat Tomi Ajadi, Rosemary Lloyd, Blue Ekhaletruo, Katrina Igglesden, Gavin Francis, Tausala Gates, Roberta Vera, Hanalee VaineAroha, Lauryn Thomas, Mitchell Webb-Leifi, Janet Laca, Stallone Nua, Alani Christal Oceania Countries represented: Hawaii, Papua New Guinea, Cook Islands, Guam, American Samoa, New Zealand
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Madelaine
Model - Madelaine Jaine @Wilhelmina Denver Photographer - Robin Fulton @robins.photography Fashion Designers - Rachel Marie Hurst, Roberta Johnson Hair Stylist - KJ Murphy @kmurphycreations Locations - Westonbirt House, Westonbirt Arboritum, Stonehenge Madelaine wears: Dress by Roberta Johnson
Madelaine wears: Dress by Rachel Marie Hurst
Madelaine wears: Dress by Roberta Johnson
Madelaine wears: Dress by Rachel Marie Hurst
Madelaine wears: Dress by Rachel Marie Hurst
Madelaine wears: Dress by Rachel Marie Hurst
Madelaine wears: Dress by Rachel Marie Hurst
Madelaine wears: Dress by Rachel Marie Hurst
HOUSE OF IKONS Ana De Sa
Archana Katchar
Photography by Frank MacDonald
Caroline Bruce
Donovan Depass
Deniz Terli
Diva Bigg
Edno Walks
Finale Wedding Studio
Harry Ngondati
House of Byfield
Josh
Jiang Chapio
Michael Lombard
Natacha Van
Philipp Atelier
Renee Fashion
Rubina Kapoor
Sahar Hayes
Spicy Pink
Swati Mishra
Ugochi
Alice Archer Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Pumpkin Spice and Autumnal Boots Candice brings you pumpkin-spiced goods and vegan and ethical boots to suit your astrological taste buds and Autumn style needs. With illustrations by Joe Bailey
Aries March 21 - April 20
A bit of kick to start or end the day, a pumpkin spice tea for the fiery Aries will be the perfect accompaniment. Pair with these stylish Valencia burgundy boots by Topshop to add more warmth and depth to any outfit.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Pumpkin butter is so versatile for any savoury or sweet dish, which is perfectly suited for the all-around Taurus. Nae’s Vegan Bline Brown ankle heeled boots in mustard yellow will deliver both the style and comfort for this season’s autumnal needs.
Gemini May 22- June 21
These nostalgic pumpkin spice Pop-Tarts complement the bubbly and energetic personality of a Gemini. With a pop tart in hand and Minuit’s Illusion heeled booties on feet, they’ll be strutting down the leaf-strewn streets with confidence and flair!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22
The minimalism of the tan Alexa boots by Collection & Co. will become a staple in any Cancer’s Autumn wardrobe. The new pumpkin spice Kit Kat will also become a fan favourite!
Leo July 23- August 21
Cinnamon rolls are the centre of almost every dessert table, but when you add pumpkin spice to them, what do you get? A Leo ready for Autumn! With these statement vegan M&S Block Heel Ankle Boots, they’ll be living it up this season in style!
Virgo August 22- September 23
The ever-constant Virgo needs these Beyond Skin Lulu Leather Ankle Boots this Autumn. Sleek and classy yet still practical, they’ll be powering through their to-do list with a pumpkin spice latte in hand to keep them running.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Libra September 24- October 23 The cold and rain can’t stop this social butterfly from mingling and going out! With these metallic, copper Kinsey Dealer Boots by Friendship, they’ll be getting conversations flowing and turning heads left and right. Pumpkins spice doughnuts will also be at the ready to be passed out to all the new friends they make.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 Matt & Nat’s Kalista black mid-heel Chelsea bootie is the perfect year-round shoe for any occasion, especially the chilly weather to come. Similarly, the reliable pumpkin spice bread loved by all, not too fancy but still a bit of autumn, will be the go-to comfort food for Scorpios.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
With a pack of pumpkin spice Oreos in hand, Dr Martens’s 1460 Pascal Wanama boot in cherry red is the perfect travelling shoe for the busy Sagittarius this autumn and winter. Unique twists on classics.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Capricorn December 23- January 20
Free People’s Check Lace-up Boot in camel isn’t the usual shoe of choice for a Capricorn, but it will be! With Pumpkin spice cookies to colour-coordinate with the shoes, they’ll be feeling a sense of rejuvenation despite the bi-polar London weather.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Koi Footwear’s Yuchi Rock lace-up boots have that platform heel detail that’s on trend this season as well as the elements of a classic staple black bootie. With yoghurt-covered pumpkin spice pretzels, an Aquarius will feel both trendy yet classy!
Pisces February 20 - March 20
Stella McCartney’s Stella x Hunter Rubber Boots are both innovative and environmentally empathetic, like the sensitive Pisces. Despite the cold weather, they’ll be outside jumping in rain puddles or making snow angels with a pint of pumpkin spice ice cream in hand.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers
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BRIGHT DESIGNS
Photographer: Sergey Mironov Photos @sergeymironovphotos Hair Stylist: Matvienko Hairstyle @matvienko_hairstyle Model: Lolita Kir @lolitakir Fashion Designer: Tamara Shuklina @tamara.shuklina Makeup Artist: Jullia @byjullia Inspiration: Paintings by Rashid Arain Wardrobe throughout: TOMMYDI @tommydi.ru
Photographer: Margarita Margo Igel @m.argofoto Models: Irina Nezabvenna @nezabvenna and Alexandra Chatskaya @chatskaya_ Fashion Designer: Tamara Shuklina @tamara.shuklina Makeup Artist: Anastasia Khamraeva @farruhhhamraeva Inspiration: Paintings by Rashid Arain Wardrobe throughout: TOMMYDI @tommydi.ru
“STOP F****** WITH THE KIDS”: THE 1975S’ FIGHT AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE. Neil Dowd analyses the intersection between music and climate protest in The 1975’s latest release. There is no denying that 2019 has been a big one for the discussion of climate change. With CNN holding a seven-hour conference for presidential candidates to discuss the climate crisis and TIME magazine dedicating an entire issue to the topic, it can be argued that there have never been brighter lights shone onto this important world crisis. However, in the eyes of many, it is just not enough to stop the impending and irreversible damage that we are causing our planet. Seemingly more so than ever, celebrities and musicians alike are using their platforms to bring this important message to the masses, in the hope to inspire true change before it’s too late. “We are right now in the beginning of a climate and ecological crisis, and we need to call it what it is: an emergency,” 16-year-old Greta Thunberg says, adding that “there is no grey areas when it comes to survival.” These extracts are taken from the Swedish activist’s essay, recorded for use on the latest self-titled track from The 1975, which will be the opening track for their upcoming album Notes On A Conditional Form. This is in keeping with the band’s prior releases, wherein an ambient, instrumental self-titled track has been used to open their albums. For those of you who may not know of her, Thunberg rose to prominence
last year when she began skipping school in order to single-handedly protest outside of the Swedish Parliament, holding a sign that translated to “School strike for climate”. This action sparked a chain reaction of similar protests from other like-minded young people, who began protesting in their own communities, leading to the formation of the school climate strike group ‘Fridays For
Future’. Fast forward to 2019 and Greta Thunberg is world-renowned for her blunt and to the point manner of speaking in her urges to make a change. Most recently, her speech at the United Nations Climate Action Summit has dominated the news globally, as well as provoking an emotional reaction from its viewership. Linking this back to The 1975, both frontman Matt Healy and the bands manager Jamie Oborne have referred to Thunberg as ‘the single most important person in the world to give a platform to’. Whilst the band have not yet found a way to be completely carbon efficient themselves, Oborne has stated that his independent record label Dirty Hit have eliminated their use of single use plastic. Their CDs and vinyl, from artists such as Pale Waves, Wolf Alice, and The Japanese House, now use paper packaging as opposed to nonbiodegradable shrink wrap. Oborne has also said they have sourced a biodegradable shrink wrap which they will begin to integrate fully once their production plants have access to it. access to it.
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Additionally, The 1975’s next merchandise release will be entirely environmentally friendly, repurposing old, unsold merchandise into new garments.
“We’re not going to have touring worked out in six weeks because everything’s working against you, but we are going to have it sorted out in a period of time, and 50% is better than nothing. If everyone pushes responsibility onto other people because they can’t completely solve [the issue], we’re already f*****.” - Jamie Oborne (co-founder of Dirty Hit Records)
via Dirty Hit Records
via unsplash by Marcus Spiske
Along with the Greta Thunberg collaboration and the band’s active effort to improve their carbon footprint, their latest single ‘People’ is another in your face battle cry for awareness on climate change. The track wastes no time with pleasantries, as a discordant, desert-rock inspired guitar riff accompanied by Healy’s rabid snarls repeatedly demanding the listener to “wake up”. Musically, the track defies all expectations and acts as a middle finger to many critics who labelled them as a throwaway pop band.
catastrophic news being used intermittently throughout the video.
‘People’ is by far the band’s heaviest work to date, embracing their very open love for the cult hardcore scene prominent in the states, with Healy noting Coverge and Minor Threat as strong influences.
Whilst there are many differences between The 1975 and Greta Thunberg in terms of their approaches and the mediums they use, through their most recent works both have been able to achieve the same thing. With Thunberg’s unwavering dedication to hold those in power accountable and The 1975 using their platform to shed light on the issue, both are voicing the concerns of the younger generation and inspiring all to take action owards making the world a better place.
Not surprisingly, the music video shares the track’s flair for ‘in your face’ controversy. Directed by frontman Matty Healy, Warren Fu and Ben Ditto, the video features the band performing within a strobe-lit room, with glitching lights and reflective imagery relating to social media, meme culture and
The shots that stand out the most are the close-ups of Matty Healy, one in which he vacantly fires a gun loaded with money into the side of his head, and another of him wearing a suicide vest and detonating the trigger. He explodes into a series of likes and emojis. The imagery here stands to represent how our prioritisation of our own, short-term gratification like saving money on cheap garments - will eventually be our downfall.
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via Wikimedia Commons by Anders Hellberg
LONDON RUNWAY
via unsplash by li-an-lim
If you’ve been inspired, read below five small changes that you can make to lower your carbon footprint:
DON’T BUY FAST FASHION REDUCE OR STOP YOUR INTAKE OF MEAT USE ALTERNATIVES TO DRIVING AND FLYING UNPLUG YOUR DEVICES RECYCLE (EVERYTHING) PAGE 106
PAUL COSTELLOE Images by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
BOBBY ABLEY
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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ROBERTA EINER Images by Fil Mazzarino
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
What has been your worst spur of the moment purchase?
&
"A couple of cocktail dresses from Clothes Show Live in about 2009. I thought they were a bargain but I've worn one of them exactly once - and the other one not at all. They're still hanging sadly in my wardrobe"
"14-24mm f.28 lens"
- David, photographer
- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
“I don't really make many spur of the moment purchases. I suppose I buy a lot of stuff from the charity shops without checking if it fits, which of course, it doesn't haha.” – Lauren Rowley, Graphic Designer
"A wind machine - I absolutely never use it" - Paul Robinson, photographer
"LOTS AND LOTS OF CRYPTOCURRENCY. LOTS" - Zohan
"Got drunk, ordered Bagpipes" - anon
“I bought a hammock at the beginning of my backpacking adventure in Asia. I had to post it back to UK because it was too big and heavy to carry during rest of my trip” – Alex Panek, Graphic Designer
"A treadmill. Also known as the most expensive clothes rack ever" - Olla
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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT MISS LONDON CITY BY FIL MAZZARINO
