MENTAL HEALTH IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY . CHRISTMAS SHOPPING GUIDE . FANTASY IN FASHION
JOSHUA KANE . LONDON EDGE . HOUSE OF IKONS KIDS . INVISIBLE MAN . UNDERAGE . LARISSA REIT
ISSUE 44 27TH NOVEMBER 2019
THE BLACK ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Fil Mazzarino, Hassan Saif Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Chang Chen Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Fashion Scout, Emmie Cosgrove, Katarzyna Kozlowska, Jade Kyrim, Kamila Blaskiewicz, @love.pinko, Marina Vasilevskaya, Marie Dashkova, Masha Vasileva, Jordan Anderson, Nicole Fang, Angel Cheng at Powell Models, Stephanie Pearl, Marie Jean Taylor, Florence Aseult-Undomiel, Elladora, Chantel Smith, Mossana, Gina Harrison, Ada Zanditon Couture, Moriel Corsetry, Pnakay & Nidhim, Black Candy Fashion, Krishan Patel, Dawnn Karen, Sofia Palacios Caraza, Lauryn Leiti, Kristin Marquet, Jason Aresnault, Phillip White, Piarve and Tina at Colechi, Lou Stokes, Rabi Sultan, Oz John, Maret Kendra, Kunaal Chawla, Andrew di Pardo, Dianne Aguilar, Shehla Mustafa, Olga Kolomlina, Katerina Klio, Anastasiya Vasyanina, Dr Jennifer Meyer, Ekaterina Pochinskaya, Monika Grzegorcyzk, Teresa Mochoka, Julia Ziarnik, Ariadna Syska, John Blake, Louise Carleton, De Lore', Zhone' Lashay, and Daniel Ortiz Special thanks to Joe Bailey
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
40 VISUALS
21 WORDS
London Edge, Light & Shadow
4
Fantasy's Influence on Fashion
18
Be A Star (editorial)
21
What Does Fashion Do to Your Mental Health?
30
A Tale About an Apple and Velvet (editorial)
26
New Faces
34
Portfolio Piece
40
Inivisible Man Exhibition, Luxury African Wedding, Luna Del Pinal
42
House of iKons Kids
52
Your Say: Mental Health in Fashion 50
Style (Conscious) Guide: Black is the 57 New Black An Ominous Trade (Editorial)
58
Jazz (Editorial)
65
Lost Childhood (Editorial)
72
Larissa Reit, Underage, Joshua Kane 88 Reality Adjustment (Editorial)
102
YCH, Atelier Zuhra, Hazzy's, Wan Pen, Bora Aksu, thisnorthat, Tran Hung, Seven Continents in Couture
112
Bladder November: 10 Tips for Bladder Health
69
London Runway's Christmas Shopping Guide
82
Your Style Horoscope
98
Black State of Mind (Short Fiction)
110
The Big Question
122
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Welcome to the Black Issue – the London Runway version... Doing special ‘Black’-themed issues, or products, has become a real trend throughout the fashion industry and beyond. It’s cool that we are starting to see more diverse people on magazine covers, but here we’re all about doing that all year round. (Here’s some handy stats for you: we’ve had six people of colour, three Asians, and eight men on our cover (nine if you count an illustration, and two of them were wearing a full face of makeup). And one polystyrene head, which is by the by. Diversity! Our next targets are to raise all of those numbers, plus bringing in disabled, mature, transgender, and full-cover modest fashion models to our family. Because we can always do better!) So, as well as including Black models on our cover and in our pages, we’re also looking at other meanings of the word ‘black’. We’re talking about mental health, as
depression is known as the black dog – as well as this colour having other negative mental health associations. We ran some polls on social media and asked for your opinion on a number of issues that we’ll reveal later in the issue. We’re also looking at black cats, with mystic and occult references in a few of our features (not to be confused with last month’s Halloween features, which were strictly witchy – now we’re going a bit more Wiccan). And we love a bit of alternative, gothic clothing, so we’ve got some fitting runway shots including this year’s London Edge show. We were a media partner this season and so we’ve gone a little more special for you, with illustrations from our own Lauren Rowley Check our gloriously dark and gorgeous editorials as well, and our New Faces who are just glowing. You may have noticed that we introduced a new Portfolio Pieces feature last month, and that is going strong with so many fabulous
submissions that it was a struggle to narrow it down to just one artist for you. We’re trying not to get too excited about Christmas, even though the shops are already playing festive music, cinnamon and nutmeg are everywhere, and you can’t turn on the TV without seeing a Christmas advert. However, given that our next issue will come out just after the date itself, we suppose we’d better mention a few things. Sorry, guys... but remember, there’s only three days left of November, so you can’t hate us too much! On a more serious note, look after yourselves. Mental health is a struggle at the best of times, and with political uncertainty combined with the well-known pressures of the fashion industry, it’s bound to get the best of us at times. Take a self-care day. If your boss questions it, you can tell them we ordered you. Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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London Edge
Photogrraphy by Rhiannon D'Averc Illustration by Lauren Rowley
Brands: Popsoda, Hearts & Roses, One Direction, Sheen Clothing, New Rock Shoes, Pentagrammes, PS Wholesale, Burleska, Offend My Eyes, Jordash, Banned Apparel, Collectif, and Unique Vintage
LONDON RUNWAY
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Light SHADOW
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Images via Fashion Scout
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LONDON RUNWAY
Olivia wears: Red Ruffle Sleeve Dress - £59.99, Mango
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s ' y s anta
F
Influence on Fashion Emmie Cosgrove explores the influence that fantasy has on fashion, with a focus on dark fantasy and the fashion subcultures and couture designers that are inspired by and celebrate dark fantasy.
Remember being a child and the excitement that came with rummaging around the dressing up box and having the power to dress as whoever, or whatever, you wanted. Whether you preferred dressing up as a princess or prince, or in my case opted for the evil enchantress character, fantasy created these characters and showed us the power of dressing up. Clothes provide us with a magical ability to present ourselves to the world as we want to be seen. Sometimes the characters from fantasy books or films have such an impact on us we unknowingly embody aspects of their look into our own. Maybe you love the frizzy hair and knitted jumper look just like Hermione Granger does or you feel best in long bohemian dresses that flounce about like Galadriel’s gown in Lord of the Rings. Fantasy has always had a massive influence on fashion. This influence goes much deeper than the way we dress. Elements of fantasy can be seen in couture collections that feature ruffles and bows, or waterfalls of lace and silk. It can be found in fashion spreads as we flick through the pages of magazines. Sometimes, a genre can have such an influence on fashion and culture that we begin to live it through sub-cultures.
Hermione Granger illustration by Mademoiselle Ortie, via Wikimedia Commons
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Within literature, fantasy is one of the oldest genres growing out of folk tales passed on by word of mouth, with the first books appearing around the 18th Century. Fantasy can be found in ghost stories told around fireplaces, or tales of fairies and goblins who roamed the forests and woods. When you think about it, witches, wizards, fairies and goblins are some of the oldest character types, appearing across many different cultures and fantasy fiction brings these to life for us. Fantasy is a genre that is constantly evolving, and as it does, many sub-genres appear that take tropes from the overarching fantasy genre and add twists. Fashion is an industry that is also constantly changing. We have the main fashion trends, but then we also have trends within subcultures. People take from mainstream fashion and adapt it to make it their own. Fantasy and fashion are two worlds that go hand in hand with each other. One of the most notable subgenres of fantasy that has had an influence on both couture and fashion subcultures is dark fantasy. Unlike horror, the main goal of dark fantasy isn’t to scare. Though there can be some similar tropes to horror in dark fantasy, it is a genre where the protagonist is more likely to commit evil deeds and there is a dark and gloomy atmosphere. Evil enchantresses rule and we see our heroes lose their sense of themselves to an evil force of magic or nature. However, what part has dark fantasy played on fashion?
The subculture of goth began in the late 70s and early 80s. Originally, gothic fashion was inspired by those who were intrigued by gothic literature, gothic music and both Victorian and medieval history. Lace, ruffles, collars and dark eye makeup all in dark black, possibly with a hint of red or white, were popular choices within the goth subculture As fashion evolves so do the trends within all areas of fashion, not just the mainstream, which means that the subculture of goth has changed over time, too. Though some members of the subculture stayed true to their roots, more subcultures emerged, taking inspiration from gothic fashion but playing about with it more.
Illustration by Joe Bailey
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There was also an influence from dark fantasy on gothic fashion. This became more obvious when people in the subculture began to experiment with the fashion and stepped aside from the strong focus on purely gothic literature. When shopping for gothic fashion now you’re far more likely to come across stores that sell dark fantasy inspired attire. This ranges from elaborate headdresses that an evil queen might wear, to black and red lace corseted dresses that a dark witch roaming the forest would dress herself in. Some creatives have taken to opening up online stores dedicated to selling garments that look like they have walked off the pages of a dark fantasy novel. Camden Market, a shopping area
for those with a preference to alternative fashion, is also known for selling gothic and fantastical clothing. There are also a few designers in fashion who incorporate elements of dark fantasy and gothic into their work. If you were to ask me which designer I believe has always had aspects of dark fantasy in not only their designs but also the runway shows they put on and their brand as a whole, my immediate answer would be Alexander McQueen. McQueen is a designer who added shock value to the shows he put on and aimed to disturb, much like the dark fantasy genre. In 1995 for McQueen’s Autumn/Winter collection his theme was Highland Rape. The runway set was flooded with dark purple light and designed to look like a rural highland. Both the lighting and the minimalist rural setting could easily be used as a landscape within dark fantasy fiction. The models came out in torn clothing, staggering and with blood splattered across them. The styling, the makeup and the stage direction along with the set design unsettled those watching the show. It was dark and surreal. It was dark fantasy fashion, with a dystopian edge. McQueen continued to use components of dark fantasy and gothic in his work, as have those who came after him. The latest Spring Ready-to-Wear 2020 collection puts a dark and fantastical spin on tailoring with drawn-in waistlines and sharp A-Line figures. The silhouettes that generate the welltailored sharp look are made out of leather and lace with exaggerated shoulders combining neutral shades with deep red jewels that bring dark fantasy to his runway and designs yet again. It’s not only designers who are able to use dark fantasy to give audiences this unnerving shock value and show that fashion is so much more than clothing. In 2010 Vogue Italia shot one of the most controversial editorial spreads ever to be seen in a fashion magazine, Water and Oil. The styling, hair and makeup transformed the models into sea creatures that looked near lifeless, caught in plastic and netting whilst covered in and choking up oil. This was a dark and fantastical take on a real
event, the BP oil spill that occurred in 2010. Fashion uses dark fantasy to not only disturb and shock people but also as a way to communicate real issues to the world in a visual way. The fashion industry has also been celebrating the general fantasy genre for many years. In 2008 the Met Gala theme was Superheroes: Fashion & Fantasy, which saw celebrities embody the fantastical fashion of the superhero universe, another sub-genre within fashion. Fashion photographer Tim Walker has constantly combined fashion and fantasy in his photography work, which is now on display at the V&A’s exhibition until March 2020. Though people outside the fashion industry may not be aware of how much fantasy impacts fashion, mainstream trends this year have also taken a more fantastical approach. Puff sleeves have made a mass comeback this year. They exaggerate and give drama to an outfit, they’re princess-esque sleeves that are straight out of a fairy tale. Neon colours became a big trend in early 2019 which gives a nod to science-fiction and science-fantasy, neons giving a look a futuristic cyber-like feel.As a whole, the fantasy genre continues to
be one of the most universally appreciated genres. From George R R Martin’s Game of Thrones series TV adaptation or the constant churning out of Harry Potter merchandise years after the last film hit the big screens, fantasy never fails to provide audiences with escapism.We love living in other worlds where the impossible is possible and you can study magic instead of maths, and slay dragons if you dare. Fantasy as a genre is a thing we cannot physically touch or a world we can’t actually live in. The fashion industry brings the fantasy genre to life. We are able to see fantasy and even live fantasy through fashion. Runway shows give audiences the fantasy world they long to visit. Though it may be for a short amount of time, that doesn’t take away from the magic. If fashion did not take influences from fantasy, dark or not, it would be an extremely dull industry. The rules of fantasy can be broken to give way to new ideas and that is the same with fashion. Coco Chanel broke the rules and gave women the choice to wear trousers and take their corsets off. Tim Walker pushed the boundaries of photography and bought pages fromfantasy books to life with his camera. Fantasy is a genre that pushes us to dream and think of the impossible and fashion is an i industry where those who dream and create the impossible tend to thrive.
You can read more of Emmie’s work over on Twitter @ems_pen (previously stylesemmie)
Illustration by Joe Bailey
Be A Star Hair Stylist and Makeup Artist: Katarzyna Kozłowska @kozlowska.hair_makeup Model: Jade Krym Photographer: Kamila Błaszkiewicz @kamilablaszkiewicz_photo
A tale about an apple and velvet
Makeup Artist and Model: @Love.pivko Photographer: Marina Vasilevskaya @milk_and_honey_foto Wardrobe throughout: Vintage
LONDON RUNWAY
WHAT DOES FASHION DO TO YOUR MENTAL HEALTH? Rhiannon D’Averc explores how the fashion industry treats its workers – and whether enough is being done to safeguard both professionals and consumers from negative mental health impact.
The fashion industry is littered with reports of fabulous designers who committed suicide, models pressured to the brink of starvation, and a party lifestyle that takes its toll in so many different ways. We don’t need to look far to find brilliant fashion professionals who struggled with their mental health. Lee Alexander McQueen, Kate Spade, Isabella Blow – their names trip off the tongue. For every designer, model, photographer, or other creative who happily makes it in the fashion industry, there must be more who bowed out due to the pressure or suffered badly. The workplace is not a happy place to be, no matter what industry you work in. The UK’s Health and Safety Executive reported in 2018 that stress, anxiety, and depression now make up 43.8% of all workplace illnesses – up from 32% in 2002. In the US, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention found that 71% of adults had at least one symptom of stress in 2018. With all of this stress flying around anyway, it’s no wonder that fashion – which is notoriously difficult to break into, full of prima donnas, and puts a big focus on personal appearance – is afflicted by so much poor mental health. Those in creative careers are reportedly 25% more likely to experience mental illness.
Kate Spade had been seeking treatment for depression and anxiety for five years, according to her husband Andy, and McQueen’s friends candidly spoke about noticing his issues in the recent documentary. His death came three years after his friend and long-time collaborator Blow took her own life. Marc Jacobs has been checked into rehab twice for alcohol issues, and John Galliano recently said that he was at risk of ending up “in a mental asylum or six feet under” if he hadn’t been embroiled in the controversy that saw him lose his position at Dior. Back then, he was overseeing 32 collections a year. How could anyone truly manage that? This is no hidden secret – it’s right there on the surface. We talk about mental health all the time, but that doesn’t mean we are necessarily getting better at dealing with it. Creatives are especially at risk of poor mental health because there are so many pressures associated with this type of work – and because it is so personal. Being brought up on a mistake in your data entry in the office does not hit as hard as being told that someone doesn’t like your designs, or thinks you have bad ideas.
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Illustration by Joe Bailey
Many professionals in the fashion industry also get started young, with models being scouted as early as their pre-teen years. How difficult must it be to live your whole life in the public eye as a teenager, with hormones and peer pressure and all of the things that causes us to make stupid mistakes at that age? 20-year-old Carissa Pinkston feels like a case study. The young model featured in campaigns for Savage x Fenty, but her reputation took a huge hit this May when she made transphobic comments on her Facebook page. She then came out as transgender – before revealing a short while later that this was a panicfuelled lie to try to stop the vitriol spewing her way. Multiple profile name changes later, you will still come across the odd angry comment on her profile. While it was not right for her to make transphobic comments, it must also have been incredibly difficult to deal with the hate and death threats that came her way after the posts – from a private Facebook account – were made public. You can’t justify her actions, but you can certainly understand how a scared young woman could make those mistakes. The whole saga led to her losing her agency as well as work contracts, which must have been still further of a mental blow. Though she later commented that she simply hadn’t been educated enough about trans women to form the right opinion, and now holds a different view, the damage was done. And this is far from an isolated incident. Popular model Belle Lucia recently shared the whole journey of her pregnancy with her social media followers, as well as the birth of her child. This positive experience attracted hordes of negative comments, from people telling her she was a bad mother to commenting on her body and appearance. Belle made a personal choice – something that could not possibly be harmful to others, unlike Carissa’s posts. Does she really deserve to attract hate for it? With models and designers now expected to be social media influencers in order to get anywhere, the conversation is becoming more and more valid. We ran a series of polls on our social media pages this month, asking you for your opinions on certain issues relating to mental health.
Screenshots from Carissa Pinkston's Instagram and Facebook
LONDON RUNWAY
Have you ever felt that you weren’t good enough while working in the fashion industry? – 83% yes Have you ever contemplated taking your own life? – 65% no
From Belle Lucia's Instagram The results were as follows:
Do you think social media negatively affects your mental health? – 75% yes Do you feel the fashion industry is open and accessible to all? – 68% no
Should the fashion industry as a whole be doing more to support positive mental health? – 100% yes
The anonymity of the internet makes us feel like we can say anything, but our words are not without consequences. They can pile onto the mind of an influencer, model, designer, or simply your friend from school, making them feel more and more worthless every day. If we had to receive the same words back upon ourselves, we would not feel great about it. Kindness to others costs nothing, and it’s very simple and easy to do. When you feel like being negative, just don’t say anything. Say it out loud to yourself if you have to. Say it inside your head. Just don’t post it on that person’s profile. On the other hand, when you see something you like, say that. Be more positive in all of your interactions, and give praise where you feel praise is due. Not only will this make everyone you interact with feel better about themselves, but it will also feel better for you. If this all sounds like hippy rubbish to you, do yourself a favour and watch The GoodPlace on Netflix. Great lessons about how being a better person is just, well, better all round, wrapped up in great comedy and great acting. You can’t ask for more.
It’s clear that there is a lot more work to be done on making sure that everyone in the fashion industry feels welcome, accepted, and supported.
Rhiannon D’Averc is on Twitter at @rhiannondaverc and will send you a compliment if you @ her
So, what can we all do to make a difference?
Keep reading this issue for comments from fashion professionals after some beautiful fashion galleries!
One key factor has to do with social media. Head to the page of any instafamous model and you will see hundreds of negative comments on each of their posts, criticising everything from their looks to their lifestyle. What do we really gain from making these comments? Calling out a wrong is one thing, but telling someone they look fat or that you don’t find them attractive is totally unnecessary. Illustration by Joe Bailey
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NEW FACE Name: Belen Davila Garcia Age: 23 Location: Barcelona, Spain Agency: Dinamic Models How long have you been modelling for? I've only been a model for 18 months, and for a year full time. Where are you from originally? I am born in Barcelona Spain Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? According to the photographers I work with they tell me that I have a way of posing that is natural and very enthusiastic. But I've always wanted to be a model since I was little.
What would surprise people to know about you? I am a girl who thought I would never be a model, but suddenly one day life made me stumble upon a photographer who made me see that I really had possibilities. And now I am very happy in this world, it has made me much more confident in myself. What are your modelling ambitions? As a model my goals are to get the jobs that really fulfil me and for this I try to give 200x100 always. My goals are now in things that I think could one day be possible, I would like to travel a little, and that photography and fashion would allow me to have experience and grow as a person. And I love the beach, to see the world's beaches would be a dream.
Makeup Artist: Jeneba Badsa @jenebamakeup Model: Belen Davila Garcia at Dinamic Models @belenndavila Photographer: Jhow Ferso @JhowFerso
NEW FACE Name: Vasileva Maria Age: 20 Location: Moscow, Russia Agency: freelance How long have you been modelling for? 3 years Where are you from originally? Yaroslavl, Russia Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Tolerancy against pain What would surprise people to know about you? If I were rich, I would spend all my money on travelling What are your modelling ambitions? To keep going on despite rejections and look for my chance, hope you will like me ;)
Photographer: Marie Dashkova @melodyphoto/ Model: Masha Vasileva @marie_tuc
NEW FACE Name: Angel Age: 20 years young Location: Adelaide, Australia Agency: Tanya Powell Models Agency (Adelaide) How long have you been modelling for? I have been with Powell Models for almost three years now, but I have been trained as a model in China for two years before that. Where are you from originally? I'm from Dalian, China, it's a beautiful city, y'all should go visit sometime. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Uuuuh, I can bend over backward and touch my heels? Does that count? Given how inflexible I actually am? And I can do this cool trick with my fingers, I can move them like a fan... it's hard to describe, I have to show you in person.
What would surprise people to know about you? I lack half a piece of bone on my spine, it never grew out. Don't ask me if it makes me feel differently or anything coz I don't really know what everyone else feels like. What are your modelling ambitions? I REALLY enjoy modelling, because I enjoy the feeling of being on stage and it is also a way to express my feelings to the rest of the world. I hope one day I will make it to the big fashion shows because that is what I'm most passionate about, I also hope that one day I will have a bigger voice with modelling going well, and I could spread positivity and equality to the world.
Makeup Artist: Jordan Anderson @jordanxmua Photographer: Nicole Fang @fangnicole Model: Angel Cheng at Powell Models @powellmodelagency @angel.cheng.k
Fragile Beasts and Where to Hide Them This is a project that gathers the dust of forgotten realms and moulds it into delicate creatures, inexplicably bound to nature. They're creatures that have been trapped in their ecosystem, crushed by their culture and are hiding until their time for escape. My body of work explores themes of environmental destruction, escapism, the beauty of nature and a decaying society.
The Marks have Settled on my Skin
portfolio piece Cocoon of Flesh and Bone
Pellis
Models: 1.Marie Jean Taylor @maverick_models @marie_jean_taylor; 2.Florence Aseult-undomiel @aseult; 3.Elladora @eloiseadora; 4.Chantel Smith; 5.Mossana; 6.Gina Harrison @ginaharrison; 7.Stephanie Pearl Fashion Designers: Ada Zanditon Couture @AdaZanditonCouture; Moriel Corsetry @moriel_mornie; Pankaj & Nidhi @pankajandnidhi Hair Stylist: Black Candy Fashion @black_candy_fashion_wigs Photographer: Stephanie Pearl @stephaniepearlphotography Assistant: Krishan Patel @krishanpatelart
LONDON RUNWAY I am a surreal portrait and fashion photographer residing in Brixton, London. I was first attracted to London Runway's ethical values in sustainability. My day-job is in sustainability, working to create the most sustainable mass produced protein in the world - insects! I love blending my biology inspiration and ethics into my photography work.
Zoantharia
Quam Chrysallidem
stephanie pearl
Ammonoidea
LONDON RUNWAY
Invisible Man Exhibition Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LUXURY AFRICAN WEDDING Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LUNA DEL PINAL
Your Say:
MENTAL HEALTH IN FASHION We reached out to members of the fashion industry to talk about their experiences, both good and bad. Here’s what they had to say… "In the fashion industry we as models (former model, now a Fashion Psychologist) are trained not to show any affect in order to sell the clothing. Specifically in using affect in psychology it deals with verbal and non verbal displays of emotions. Models must put their emotions aside to sell clothing, accessories. Products, etc. Consequently, this causes models to mask their feelings and not deal with them until they come pouring out at the seams (usually due to an unexpected trigger). Masking although required within the fashion industry, is not beneficial for ones mental health in the long run. I would encourage models to have a therapist if they decide to take on this career path."
Fashion Psychologist Dawnn Karen. Her book Dress Your Best Life is publishing 26/03/20 and is available to pre-order now on Amazon.
LONDON RUNWAY
“I've been in the fashion industry most of my career which has been about 15 years (titles include: fashion PR agency owner, fashion photo shoot creative director, fashion digital marketer, runway show producer, and fashion e-commerce consultant--all in New York City) and have learned that the industry takes a toll on your mental health. I've had my fair share of good and bad experiences with clients, models, photographers, stylists, and makeup artists (more positive than negative experiences). Here are my best tips to protect your mental health in the industry: Don't let anyone railroad you into doing something you don't think it right. Stand up for yourself when you feel like as if someone is taking advantage or disrespecting you. Self-respect is key to surviving the industry. Be transparent, honest, and realistic when it comes to client relationships. The most important thing is to manage their expectations to ensure everyone is on the same page. Honesty and transparency are paramount when dealing with client issues. Whether you're a model, a fashion designer, a fashion publicist, or a makeup artist, be prepared to work extremely long hours in a highly competitive and demanding workplace for very little pay. Exhaustion and mental fatigue often come with the industry so learn self-care early on. Be prepared to start at the bottom and work your way up. You'll have to do a lot of grunt work in the early days--it's all part of paying your dues. Don't let it get you down or make you feel inferior. It's nothing personal--it's just part of the job.
Kristin Marquet, founder and creative director at FemFounder
“It is known that many times they look for a prototype model. Tall, blond, clear eyes and very pretty and many of us do not risk going by now. We know what they are looking for, plus size models are very few that call to be in the magazine without knowing many times all our achievements, experiences, and how elegant we are.” So ia Palacios Caraza, model
“GOT EATING DISORDER AND STARTED SMOKING BECAUSE YOU GOT TO BE SKINNY” Lauryn Leiti
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LONDON RUNWAY
“Growing up in the suburbs of New Jersey, I didn’t feel like I truly belonged and was bullied throughout high school because of my sexual identity. When I moved to New York City in 1998 and became a fashion stylist, that all changed. In the high fashion world, I found a community of people like me. Being gay was embraced instead of being seen as strange or something to be ashamed of. But the depression and anxiety I struggled with throughout my life didn’t magically disappear when I entered the fashion industry. I started using drugs and alcohol in high school to numb the pain of my loneliness and insecurity, and my use increased in the heavy-partying fashion scene. The industry that once welcomed me ended up being my downfall. I ultimately decided to leave that world to pursue my recovery and learn to accept myself for who I am.” Jason Arsenault, Director of Recovery Coaching at Mountainside Treatment Center. A former fashion stylist who struggled first-hand with depression, anxiety, and crystal meth addiction, Jason is now a Certified Addiction Recovery Coach. He draws from his experiences as a gay, HIV-positive man in recovery to help others strengthen their well-being and overcome the stigma attached to mental health disorders.
“I FIND THAT I DEAL WITH A LOT OF STRESS AND ANXIETY RUNNING MY CLOTHING LINE AS BOTH THE DESIGNER AND THE HANDLING ALL ASPECTS OF THE BUSINESS SIDE. I HAVE TAKEN UP WEEKLY MEDIATION CLASSES AT A LOCAL STUDIO IN MY HOME OF DALLAS. I FIND THAT MEDITATION REALLY HELPS ME RESET AND KEEP ME CALM WHEN ANXIETY HITS ME.” PHILLIP WHITE, DESIGNER OF PHIT CLOTHING
"Every year we take the time to organise an event that highlights the important of self care as a creative, particularly as a creative in fashion, whether you are a designer, behind the camera or taking care of press. The fashion industry is known for being cut throat, highly competitive and often not so exclusive, a combination of elements that can take a toll on mental health. Because of this it is important to teach the balance of hard work and remaining passionate while being aware of yourself and surrounding yourself with a network of people who are reliable and have your best interest in mind. This is a very di icult balance, as founders of Colèchi, we have found ourselves taking on extra jobs, having sleepless nights and battling towards deadlines, however for every manic period of work we make sure that we give ourselves a day or so to do nothing, be around good company and relax. It is even better that we have a great relationship as business partners and are able to be open and honest about work load engagements and how much we can handle. Being passionate is a uni ue trait that often means work and life merge together,which is great, however we need to encourage honest conversations with each other on areas that affect our joy, from being open about money to being around toxic colleagues and even picking up projects that do not align with our personal values" Piarvé and Tina at Colèchi
My coping mechanism are to not follow trends, yet to appreciate them, but to always being true to my authentic style and not being a slave to the fashion industry. When we have a high dose of self-worth we stop trying to be someone else, and for me this is the same in fashion and style. Ways in which I have cultivated self worth is to stop trying to be liked by everyone, in every aspect of my life. To tap into my inner strengths and really getting to know myself through meditation and journalling.It is impossible to create your own authentic style if you don’t get to know yourself on a deeper level. It is important to not compare yourself to others and follow people as inspiration and not use them as a reason to self destruct and fall into the negative spiral. Lou Stokes, Style and Confidence Coach
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HOUSE OF iKONS KIDS
Photography by Rabi Sultan
Be Unique Be You
Athea Couture
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Korn Taylor
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Adrianna Ostrowska
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc
Introvert Alla Earrings £15 Selected Homme Chevron Contrast Jumper £55
Hill and Friends Happy Tweency Liqourice Black £450
Po-Zu Sid Boots £165
11giorgiandreazza17 Rain Coat £197.97
H&M Conscious Dress with Embroidery £34.99
Ganor Dominic Ares Boots £625
BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK
Jack & Jones Intelligence Slim Fit Tapered Jeans £50
An Ominous Trade Photographer: Oz John @oz.john.photography Accessory Designer: Maret Kendra @maretsdesigns Model/Actor: Kunaal Chawla at Star Talent Inc @kunaalchawla imdb.com/name/nm10062656/ Model/Director/Actor: Andrew Di Pardo @andrew_dipardo andrewdipardofilms.com Model/Actress: Dianne Aguilar at Marchese Talent Management @dianneaguilar imdb.com/name/nm6311766/ Makeup Effects/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Shehla Mustafa @makeup.artistryxshela
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Wardrobe Credits: Villain: JACKET - INC SHIRT - Macy's TROUSERS - Macy's SHOES - Clarks Dark Angel: DRESS - Lulus SHOES - Aldo WINGS - Maret Kendra ACCESSORIES - Bitty May, Dixy’s Dealer: JACKET - Raymondnext SHIRT - Kenneth Cole SHAWL - Pashmina TROUSERS - Raymondnext SHOES - Aston Grey PROPS - Berman & Co
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JA ZZ
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Makeup Artist: Olga Kolomlina @okolomlina.style Photographer: Katerina Klio @photographer_katerinaklio Model: Ekaterina Pochinskaya @yekaterina337 Assistant: Anastasiya Vasyanina @asya1.photo Wardrobe: Vintage
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BLADDER NOVEMBER: 10 TIPS FOR BLADDER HEALTH You may recall the article in last month’s issue explaining why I started a heartfelt business called Dr Jennifer Meyer, helping women overcome health issues and social taboos. In the UK & the US, November has been named Bladder Health Awareness Month. In honour of that, this article is aimed at promoting bladder awareness, and my newly released bladder book that was published on 15th November 2019, called Piss to Bliss has been out for 99p only, now increasing to £4.44 before settling at its RRP of £9.99 to really help spread the message. Please grab your copy and share the link to help promote Bladder November, as many people suffer in silence with cystitis and other urinary issues. Thank you. Living with cystitis is at best, frustrating and at worst, a death-wish. Bladder ills are unendurable agonies that ripple effect at many levels. Depending on the type of cystitis and its severity, the pain could range from just a bit of burning pee that goes away quickly, to relentless bladder cramps but sadly, in most cases it is way more than that. Here are a few potential agonies caused by living with cystitis (either UTI, chronic, or bladder cancer):
Physical Pain Electrical charges clawing up the urethra into the bladder like having a dentist drill your tooth and hit a nerve. A dead butt imprinted with the toilet seat, after being stuck to it for an insufferable amount of time. Undeniable bladder cramps and erratic spasms that feels as if it is trying to give birth to itself. From a few drops of blood to frightening bleeding when you pee. The devastating need to go to the toilet all the time, only to squeeze out a few acid drops that burn.
Emotional & Mental Pain The anguish the first sensation brings and the frustration as it develops: nothing else causes the irritability that cystitis does. Dealing with taboos and misunderstandings around cystitis, especially the one that cystitis is a sexually transmitted disease and dirty: it is not.
Relationship & Sexual Pain Friction caused by not wanting your partner coming near you. The agony of sex whilst having cystitis. Maybe you are reluctantly single, as your partner had enough of your ‘women troubles’. The thought of never wanting sex again, in case it makes you ill. Your sexual health and romantic life take a head-nose dive as cystitis leads the way again to despair. Your self-confidence and self-love forever decrease. Feeling like a bad mother when you are unable to look after your children or snap at them as a result of chronic pain. Resentment of the ‘you’ that cystitis creates.
Medical Incompetence Frustration Paying good money to seek medical help and not getting satisfactory results. Knowing there is something wrong with you but the doctors can’t find out what or able to help you.
Financial Pain Finding the money to pay the huge bills for the urology tests. Shelling out for monthly antibiotics, cystitis sachets, painkillers, cranberry juice, that most of the time do not work. Nobody pays you sick-leave if you are self-employed. Lost income for not being able to show up to work because you are, once again, sobbing on the toilet. How many hours have we spent off work with
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cystitis or bladder issues? If you are employed, then the stress of providing endless doctors' notes that you are indeed suffering just about puts you over the edge. How about the loss of promotions or work travel due to your women health issues? What about that taboo that cystitis isn't really a big deal, making you feel you are ‘pulling a sickie,' attention-seeking, or being a bit of a drama queen.
Victimhood Pain ‘Why me? Not cystitis again! What am I doing wrong? Life isn't fair.’ Fear of not knowing what to do to avoid cystitis. Loss of hope turning into chaos and desperation. If you reach that stage, it can permeate every part of your life, the pain of living with cystitis or the fear of getting it again becomes allencompassing. Depression of your aura and energy frequency, dampening the real you and sucking you into a negative spiral, attracting people who do not understand, who may abuse you because you are weakened. Not defending yourself because of loss of self-esteem and self-confidence. Saying yes when you want to say no. Being too nice to make up for feeling so vulnerable inside. Cystitis has claimed its victim.
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In the book, I describe 25 types of cystitis and how to overcome them. Here, we focus on one type that affects many people without their knowledge. If you have recurring cystitis but the doctors confirm that you do not have an infection (UTI), then you may have Candida Cystitis.
Candida Cystitis Candida is also known as thrush, fungus, yeast, or the ‘bad gut bacteria'. Usually, Candida lives in our intestines hopefully in balance with our ‘good gut bacteria'. It forms part of our microbiome (our internal floral ecosystem). If we have too much acid-forming food and drink that feed the yeast, it may overflourish and spread, killing off the good flora and potentially migrating outside of the gut walls, called a ‘leaky gut'. There are two ways candida can get into the bladder, internally via the ureters, or externally via the urethra.
Internally So, yes we can absolutely get candida in our bladder by over-consuming certain foods or from a leaky gut. If we have candida issues in our gut or mouth, the likelihood is we also have it in the bladder. A bladder is moist, dark, and cramped when empty, providing a thriving environment for candida. Getting rid of it takes some effort, but it is necessary. When I approached my urologist with this idea, he poo-pooed it mumbling: 'No such thing as candida'. It was a taboo, something not accepted in medical terms. Now, luckily it is omewhat more mainstream, but still not discussed enough. If you take away one thing from this article, it is that this type of cystitis does exist.
blood test. The only way to know for sure if you have it in the bladder is with a camera procedure (cystoscopy), or to do the anti-candida diet (detailed in the book) and notice if your symptoms lessen. The good news is that once the candida has died and been peed out, the symptoms will go away and it will have to grow again to be problematic.
Externally The other way to get thrush in your bladder is from the outside. If you have thrush in your vagina or anus, a burning itchy sensation, there is a high risk that some of that fungus will transfer into the urethra. This is common, especially in women with precious holes that are closer together. The risk increases by wearing strings/thongs or tight trousers. You don't have to have vaginal thrush to get it in your bladder as it can also be transferred sexually. What I term as dirty sex can be very problematic for bladder health. Avoid candida cystitis by implementing the sexual, toilet, daily hygiene, hydration and nutritional protocols that are detailed in the book. For now, here are 3 nutritional ways to avoid it:
1 - Consume plenty of anti-fungal or antiinflammatory foods and drink, such as aloe vera gel, lemon, garlic, onion, ginger, turmeric, spring water with 1 teaspoon of organic food-grade bicarbonate of soda. 2 - Drink at least 2 litres of still mineral or spring water daily. 3 - Avoid sugar, gluten and other acidforming foods and drink, such as fruit, sweets, cakes, pasta, dairy, sweeteners and alcohol.
You can have candida or thrush inside your bladder. This type does not show up in a urine or
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Look out for those who can’t explain their bladder pain Cystitis can affect both men and women of all ages. Babies and children get it, as do teenagers, women, men and the elderly, even our pets. It is harder to detect any type of cystitis in animals, babies, toddlers and in the elderly with dementia as they are not able to communicate their pain to us effectively. If you feel your toddler is often cranky or complains of a weird stomach ache (as I did as a child), but nothing is showing up, have them checked for a UTI or consider they may have candida cystitis or another type of chronic cystitis. It is crucial to keep an eye on the elderly’s bladder health because UTIs symptoms may differ somewhat with people suffering from dementia. It is imperative to look out for increased signs of confusion, agitation, withdrawal, and delusions, as these may be signs of an untreated bladder infection. UTI’s can intensify dementia symptoms and can also speed up its progression. Be aware that in any age group, untreated bladder infections can lead to sepsis or bladder cancer.
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My top 10 bladder health tips: 1 - Drink a high-quality aloe vera gel each morning and/or before bed 2 - Keep hydrated with at least 2 litres of still mineral/spring water per day 3 - Wipe from front to back and clean your anus after each poo 4 - If sexually active ensure to have hygienic sex (both partners clean) and go for a gentle pee straight after intercourse to push out anything that penetrated the urethra 5 - Be authentic in all areas of your life, especially to yourself 6 - Avoid inflammatory/acid-forming foods 7 - Know your fulcrum (your limits in all actions related to the bladder) 8 - Value yourself, know your worth & ditch any poverty belief systems 9 - Deal with any lingering issues of sexual abuse, bullying or being too nice 10 - Talk about any urinary incontinence or cystitis issues so that you can get the knowledge and help that you need
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Let’s talk openly about cystitis and other ills affecting women regularly so that we work out how to avoid them and break the stigma. Even as a young adult, I assumed all women had regular cystitis. I thought it was just what we had, like having periods. It is not normal. Remember that women’s health issues are not dirty, shameful, embarrassing nor taboo: please speak out. You are not alone. If you enjoyed last month’s and this article, or are just fed up with chronic, acute or inconvenient bladder pain and suffering relentlessly from cystitis… If you feel that now is the time to empower your womanhood and thrive instead of shrinking to fit in… If you are looking for some surprising solutions to overcoming irritating urinary and bladder problems… If you wish to experience the vibrant, healthy and confident life that bladder pain stole from you... If yes then do equip yourself with the keys to unlocking bladder secrets, finding relief and building hope, all whilst embarking on a personal transformational journey. Join me, for it's time to put the Yip back in Pee! I invite you on this fabulous road-trip. Coming? If so, I'll see you in the book. PISS TO BLISS is a movement: join the flow! Break free from women's taboos & all types of cystitis. Be in the driver's seat of your bladder & sexual health. Reconnect to your body's wisdom. Find Jennifer’s book at: amazon.co.uk/dp/B081B5H1KM
LOST CHILDHOOD Wardrobe Stylist: Monika Grzegorczyk @m.grzegorczyk_fashionstylist Hair Stylist: Katarzyna Kozłowska @kozlowska.hair_makeup Makeup Artist: Teresa Mochocka @tmochocka_makeup Photographer: Kamila Błaszkiewicz @kamilablaszkiewicz_photo Models: Julia Ziarnik and Ariadna Syska
Ari wears: Stradivarius sweatshirt, Monika Świderska skirt, Calzedonia tights. Julia wears: LUNCY dress, Me Jane fur, Zara shoes
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Ari wears: TOVA coat, Zara pants, Promod sweater, vintage shoes. Julia wears: Zara golf, Bershka pants, Zara shoes
Ari wears: TOVA coat, Zara pants, Promod sweater, vintage shoes. Julia wears: Zara golf, Bershka pants, Zara shoes
Ari wears: Stradivarius sweatshirt, Monika Ĺšwiderska skirt, Calzedonia tights. Julia wears: LUNCY dress, Me Jane fur, Zara shoes
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Ari wears: TOVA coat, Zara pants, Promod sweater, vintage shoes. Julia wears: Zara golf, Bershka pants, Zara shoes
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Ari wears: coat H&M, top Bershka, boots Zara. Julia wears: cardigan Zara, top Monnari, shoes vintage, jeans Pull &Bear.
Julia wears: cardigan Zara, top Monnari, jeans Pull & Bear.
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Ari wears: coat H&M, blouse Bershka, shoes Zara. Julia wears: cardigan Zara, top Monnari, jeans Pull&Bear.
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Ari wears: Stradivarius sweatshirt, Monika Åšwiderska skirt, Calzedonia tights. Julia wears: LUNCY dress, Me Jane fur, Zara shoes
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COBRE Barrow Espresso Cup from Artisan and Fox, $18 or $30 for 2 For the coffee lover in your life – help them to get their daily fix more ethically.
Guitar Salad Servers from Joy, £12.50
Adults should eat salad. Even so, adults don’t have to be boring. Perfect for the big kids!
LONDON RUNWAY’S CHRISTMAS SHOPPING GUIDE Looking for something to put under the tree? These gifts are sure to put a smile on someone’s face come Christmas morning. Curated by Rhiannon D’Averc
‘This Woman Is’ Notebook from Paperchase, £6.00 Get a bit of inspiration into someone’s daily life by reminding them how strong, powerful, confident, fearless, bold, beautiful, inspirational, and independent they are.
Espressoh Lipstick Aroma in Rossoh at Lone Design Club, £19 Know a friend who needs to rock a classic red lip? This one is moisturising, too, and offers long lasting wear.
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James Barker Dinosaur Alphabet Print at Wolf and Badger, £26 This is the age of the nerd. Embrace and celebrate it by gifting this delightful print to a friend who knows how to get prehistoric.
Beyond Living’s The Original Candle Hand You Rock Hand Gesture at Wolf and Badger, £35
It rocks, it smells great, and it comes in four different colours. Rock on!
Dream Decoder at Anthropologie, £14.99 Got a friend who’s always telling you about their weird dreams? Help them get to the bottom of what it all means.
Cards Against Humanity at Waterstones, £27.99 If you know a single friend who hasn’t played this – even just one – you owe it to them to make it possible.
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Garden Birds Hamper Tote at Lakeland, £19.99 A great gift for a sensible couple who like their food. It’s suitable for vegetarians, and the tote is a nice bonus.
Spinning Jewellery Box from Paperchase, £20.00
This handy jewellery box is not just pretty, but also practical. It spins around so they can easily get to whatever item they want!
Caramel Chocolate Advent Calendar at Hotel Chocolat, £12.99 Make sure you get this gift over to them before the countdown starts!
Pusheen Unicorn Mug and Socks from Joy, £12.99
There’s always that one relative you don’t know too well, but feel like you should buy something for. Almost everyone wears socks and uses mugs, and this has a unicorn theme, which is an obvious plus.
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Lavinia Pencil Cup at Anthropologie, £19.00 That co-worker who always reads her horoscope will love the mysticism (and the handy way you can hang stuff off the fingers).
Just Add Wine Savoury Christmas Hamper at Lakeland, £14.99
An extremely civilised gift containing pate, chutney, and biscuits – but not just any old pate, chutney, and biscuits.
Black Mirror Nosedive Card Game at Waterstones, £19.99 Black Mirror is still one of the coolest shows out there, and we’re super proud it came out of the UK. Celebrate it with this social media-themed game based on the Nosedive episode.
The Everything Chocolate Collection Hamper at Hotel Chocolat, £27.50 A chocolate lover will be in absolute heaven at the sight of this hamper!
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Leather Alphabet Pouch Purse at John Lewis & Partners, £28 Both personal and chic. Better be quick, though, as the letters are going fast.
MUA 20 Shade Eyeshadow Palette in Tropical Oceana at Superdrug, £8.00 A set for the woman in your life who dreams of a tropical holiday – with all the shades she’ll need!
Eisley Enamel Button Stud Earrings at Ted Baker, £29 Cute earrings in three colourways to help you match with your bestie’s style.
Molton Brown Aromatic & Woody Cracker Bath & Shower Gel Bodycare Gift Set at John Lewis & Partners, £17.00 A gift set that will fit almost any recipient, but still looks like you put some effort in.
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Polka Dot Scrunchie with Bow at Bershka, £4.99 With four colours available, you can get a very affordable present for a co-worker that still looks cute.
Polybow Polly Mini Perfume & Lip Gloss Gift Set at Ted Baker, £12.00 This set of matching perfume and gloss makes a great secret Santa at a low price.
MUA Eyeshadow Palette in Flora Fantasy 001 at Superdrug, £5.00
Totally vegan eyeshadows, with a selection of 15 colours, will give your giftee plenty to choose from.
Her Body and Other Parties by Carmen Maria Machado at Foyles, £8.99 Our favourite gift of the year, as vouched for by our Chief Editor. This book is a must-read for any feminist, queer, or just literature-loving individual. A masterclass!
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LARISSA REIT Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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UNDERAGE Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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JOSHUA KANE Images by John Blake
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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Healing Jewellery for the mind, body, and fashionista Candice brings you ethically and sustainably sourced gemstones and jewellery for this issue’s Style Horoscope. November hit us like a wave! Before we know it, it’ll be the start of a new decade, 2020. We’ll need to be prepared and protected for any stress or workload to come, especially since the craze of the holiday festivities are slowly creeping up! These jewelleries are all ethically sourced and sustainably mined and made.
Aries March 21 - April 20
Mirabelle Jewellery’s Semi Precious Teardrop Earrings with the garnet stone accents will elevate any outfit an Aries throws on. Garnet is known to strengthen and enhance their endurance and fiery natures. Any activity done with some garnet nearby will be done with full force and enthusiasm.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Created by Nyoman Rena in Indonesia, this Radiant Sun pendant necklace on the Unicef Market is ethically and artisan made. As the main stone, Carnelian unblocks the doubts and obstacles in your way while energising you towards your end goal.
Gemini May 22- June 21
These beautiful and dainty studs by Julia Thompson Jewellery reflect light perfectly, just like the bubbly Gemini. Able to lift them into their highest spiritual state, Rutilated Quartz brings loads of positives into this outgoing sign’s life.
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Cancer June 22- July 22
This water sign benefits greatly from the energies of an Abalone shell, which connects them back to their aquatic nature. Always empathetic and selfless, Pippa Small’s 18KT Gold Abalone Shell Aquarelle Double Drop Earrings can help to enhance their perceptive nature.
Leo July 23- August 21
A combination of the sun and Earth’s energies, Tiger’s Eye is essentially Leos in a gemstone. Guiding their evolution as they grow wiser and more self-attuned, the Silver Island UK’s Tiger Eye Sterling Silver Earrings are the statement pieces they need to stand out!
Virgo August 22- September 23
Catbird’s Sway Earrings in jade and pearl designed by Faris adds a flair of modern playfulness to the sophisticated Virgo’s collection. Bringing Virgos closer to nature and enriching them with bountiful opportunities, Jade is the go-to crystal for this intelligent sign.
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Libra September 24- October 23 These peace-loving and sociable signs are always wanting to find balance and harmony in all aspects of their lives. With the gemstone Lapis Lazuli, it’ll help them with decision-making and give them a sense of assuredness. Egret Jewelry’s 925 Sterling Silver Lapis Lazuli Flower Ring is intricate and delicate for the sign.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 Article 22’s Birthstone 14K Gold Stud Earrings in Citrine are gorgeous statement pieces packaged small. Citrine brings brightness and light to a Scorpio’s usual stoic demeanour.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
Immune boosting Tree Agate is perfect for the wandering Sagittarius to keep them flowing and their systems in top shape for any new adventures in store for the coming new year! LuvMyJewelry’s (LMJ) Tree Agate Stone Ring is both stunning and sturdy enough for the rambunctious Sagittarius.
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Catbird’s Ombré Eternity Band features multiple stones that include garnet, peridot, emerald, and more. Peridot is great for refreshing and stimulating a Capricorn for renewed energy, but with the amount they choose to undertake, they’ll need all the gemstones’ powers!
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Free spirited by nature, it’s easy to escape wander off, but keep your mind and body connected and grounded with Amethyst as your anchor. Lebrusan Studio’s Fair-trade Amethyst Evil Eye Pendant will do just and help alleviate stress.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
As its birthstone, Aquamarine for Pisceans is like water to fish. It recharges and protects them, giving them that reflective aura they need. Pippa Small’s Aquamarine Large Cup Ring would be the perfect, minimalistic accessory to don with any outfit.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers
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REALITY ADJUSTMENT Model: De Lore’ @officially.delore Creative Director/Makeup Artist: Zhone' Lashay @zhonelashay Photographer: Daniel Ortiz @danielortiz.photography
BLACK STATE OF MIND Short fiction by Louise Carleton She had become painfully aware from a young age that she was not quite like the other girls. There was something about her that never seemed to fit in no matter how hard she tried. She would say the wrong thing, wear the wrong clothes or listen to the wrong music; always a beat behind everyone else. She had studied the other girls intently, desperate to be like them. She watched the way they interacted with one another: how they threw their heads back when they laughed or the quick smiles they flashed, a pink flicker of a tongue darting behind rows of tiny iridescent teeth. She studied how they moulded together so naturally, a tangle of long honeyed limbs that relaxed and softened and found one another effortlessly whilst she was hard sharp edges that refused to yield no matter how hard she tried. Like them, she pulled her hair back into tight ponytails that made the skin on her temples throb, the palpable feeling of relief when she took it down as the taut skin began to settle back around her skull. She bought eyeshadow palettes in pastel hues she painstakingly applied until her eyelids resembled creamy sunsets that she immediately forgot about and smeared into streaks when she rubbed her tired eyes with balled fists. But despite her efforts her differences exposed her; they singled her out, drawing attention to the things she said or did, highlighting even the most minute perceived flaws, magnifying and exaggerating them until she was unsure who it was they were mocking, it surely couldn’t be her, could it? This
grotesque character who they sniggered about behind their hands or turned their backs on when she entered a room. She shrunk in their presence; becoming smaller and smaller, retreating into herself until she was no more than a tiny speck on the horizon, an uninhabited island no one could reach, until one day everything changed. She had been walking along the perimeter of the playground wishing she was small enough to slip unnoticed through one of the holes in the chain link fence when she became aware of a commotion. The headmistress, a large woman with grey curling hair, was escorting a girl she had never seen before; not in school and certainly not out of it. The girl was tall and thin, almost painfully so, with black hair cut into a sleek bob, the ends of which dusted the tops of impossibly high cheekbones. She drifted closer towards them, noticing as she got nearer how the new girl glittered like a magpie’s hoard; her ears were littered with tiny studs, a small silver moon hung from a chain so fine that from a distance it appeared as though it was suspended mid-air against her white neck, and as a thin hand reached nervously towards her throat sharp twists of metal glinted off her fingers. She was close now, her heartbeat thudding heavily in her ears, captivated by the girl in front of her, so unlike the other girls at school who were soft and pink whilst this girl was dark with a hardness that was hovering in the wings. She caught the eye of the
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headmistress who beckoned her over with a fat finger. ‘This is Cassandra. Today is her first day and I need someone to help show her around. Can I trust you to do a good job and make sure Cassandra is welcomed?’ She nodded dumbly, feeling her cheeks flush as Cassandra’s gaze turned towards her, certain she detected a wrinkling of her nose as she cast a heavily kohled eye over her, but when she looked up into Cassandra’s face it was smooth and untroubled. ‘Hi,’ she said, proffering a hand that was cool and dry to touch, the metal rings cold between her fingers. ‘So,’ said Cassandra as they began to walk, falling into step beside one another, Cassandra seemingly unfazed that her companion had yet to utter a word, ‘where can we go to smoke?’ She pointed to the far corner of the playing field where an old shed belonging to the caretaker stood, the fence behind it making a secret corridor ripe for performing teenage rites of passage. Of course she had never been there before; no boy had ever asked her to meet him for stolen kisses pressed up against the rough wall of the shed nor had she accompanied a group of girls to smoke, spraying each other in a cloud of body spray, heading back to lessons giggling as they passed packs of chewing gum, breathing nicotine and mint laced breath on one another to check no tell-tale aromas would give them away. ‘Just behind here,’ she said, relieved to find the passage deserted. ‘Cool,’ said Cassandra, kicking aside a crushed coke can and mound of brown butts, folding her long legs underneath her as she made herself comfortable. ‘Come on,’ she said motioning to the floor and the second small place she had cleared.
LONDON RUNWAY She sat tentatively, sure she was going to fuck this up any minute now. She watched Cassandra’s face intently, waiting for the lightbulb moment when it dawned on her that she was in the presence of a certified loser; a freak of the highest order that no one wanted to befriend. But she was preoccupied; her hands rummaging quickly through her bag tossing up a tangled pair of headphones, a dog eared book with yellowed pages and a bunch of keys complete with novelty keyrings, the metal stained and tarnished. ‘Aha!’ she said at last, pulling out a slim white carton and tapping two equally thin white cigarettes out of it. They were nothing like the cigarettes she watched her uncle smoke; ones that were thick and fat, with a brown speckled end reminding you where to place your mouth. ‘Vogues,’ she said smugly, noticing her face. ‘I stole them from my older sister. They make you look like a French film star from the 50’s or something,’ she said, putting both in her mouth and lighting them. She had never smoked before, the dangers of lungs heavy with tar had been instilled within her after every visit to Uncle Rodney, listening in equal measures of fear and disgust as the ratio of butts mounting in the ashtray aligned with the frequency of his hacking cough that sounded damp and marshy in his chest. But now Cassandra was proffering
Illustrations by Joe Bailey
her one, the glowing end a beacon of friendship which she took greedily with both hands, feeling the acrid smoke fill her lungs before she expelled it into the white clouds above them, tilting her head to watch her own cloud of smoke evaporate into the sky, proud that she didn’t cough. Cassandra watched her. ‘What’s it like here?’ she asked, and when she shrugged and pretended she was consumed with tapping ash off the end of her cigarette, Cassandra continued. ‘Seems like it’s full of idiots,’ she said, taking another long drag on her cigarette, rolling the smoke around her mouth waiting for her companion to reply. The cigarette had made her feel light headed, the act of smoking it had emboldened her; no longer was she the girl who everyone picked on, with the wrong clothes and who liked all the wrong things, now she was the type of girl who smoked in secret, who had a friend who wore shiny Dr Martens and who wore chipped black nail polish to school even though it was strictly forbidden. She looked up into Cassandra’s expectant face, ‘It is full of idiots. I can’t stand any of them...and they can’t seem to stand me either,’ she said quickly taking another furtive pull on the cigarette, thankful for the smoke screen it offered her. ‘I’m not that popular,’ she added as she exhaled, getting used to the smoke now, feeling at once incredibly adult and world weary at the same time. Cassandra shrugged. ‘Me either,’ she said, leaning back against the fence and letting a companionable silence stretch and settle around them. When their cigarettes were finished, the butts crushed into the mud next to them, Cassandra pulled out a magazine from the bag beside her, shaking it open and angling it so both girls could see and slowly began to leaf through its pages. She had never before seen a magazine like it; there were no articles on how to get a boyfriend, diet tips or images of women with full breasts, tiny waists and bee stung lips, instead there were pages of androgynous models their stance wide, their faces unsmiling as they stared
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Illustrations by Joe Bailey
defiantly into the camera. They stopped at a page where a tall woman with a shock of red hair, draped in black lace, stared angrily out towards them. ‘Black is so flattering,’ Cassandra breathed, tracing the outline of the dress ‘I mean don’t get me wrong there’s nothing wrong with pink, but pink isn’t going to make you look like this,’ she said, jabbing the page for emphasis. ‘Pink isn’t going to make you turn heads or stand out from the crowd. All I wear now is black. I’m like some modern witch,’ she said, getting to her feet as the bell rang, cutting short the possibility of another cigarette or learning more about Cassandra’s witchcraft, of which it was clear she possessed. ‘You can borrow it,’ Cassandra said, thrusting the magazine into her hands whilst simultaneously pulling out a navy blue silk makeup bag, one that was devoid of sickly sweet coloured lipsticks or shimmery pink highlighters. ‘Here,’ she said leaning over and spritzing her with a small perfume bottle that she pulled from its depths. It smelt dark and musky; a scent that would cling to her clothes for the rest of the day and would still linger on her skin long after she had washed it off. ‘Right, let’s go and face the rest of these idiots,’ she said. As they walked towards the school buildings, Cassandra linked her arm through hers. She felt herself lift a little higher, as though her spine was slowly unfurling, a green shoot coming alive under a nourishing warm sun. She imagined them in her mind’s eye, entering the classroom arm in arm, their eyes ringed black, hair wild and untamed, draped in voluminous yards of black lace and silk. She felt a white hot energy flow up from the earth beneath her, igniting her bones and flooding her with light, and for the first time in her life she felt powerful.
Find Louise at @louisecarleton
YCH Images by Fil Mazzarino
ATELIER ZUHRA Atelier Zuhra showcased their latest denim collection at the exclusive W Hotel. A DJ was playing cool beats and the venue was buzzing, with people ordering fancy drinks from an impressive circular bar. The models showcasing the garments were posing on a semi-circular stage. Flared jeans with raw hems complemented jackets with ornate mirror beading. Belted dresses with large collars were ornamented with a waterfall of gems. The stand out look was a white jacket and jeans set, with gold sequins and jewels cascading down the front.
Images by Fil Mazzarino, words Madeleine Oakley
HAZZY'S Images by Fil Mazzarino
Fashion Scout Merit Award
WAN PEN Images via Fashion Scout
BORA AKSU Images by Fil Mazzarino
THISNORTHAT Images via Fashion Scout
TRAN HUNG Images via Fashion Scout
SEVEN CONTINENTS IN COUTURE Images via Fashion Scout
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
If you could only listen to one album for the rest of your life, what would it be?
&
“A mix of chill-step and something new so I wouldn’t get bored of it”. – Tom Dayton, model
“Ah this is tricky one for me because I don’t usually listen to full albums. So I mean, I’ve been listening to a lot of Rag n Bone Man at the moment.” - Dan Candler, model
“I’D SAY BOB MARLEY, JAMMING.”
“FRENCH KIWI JUICE BY FKJ.”
– Daniel Johnson, model
- Tausala Gates, model
“Jodeci, Diary of a Mad Band.” – Jordan Walfall Jr, model & Face of London Runway 2019 Runner-Up
“That’s difficult, because I’m so ‘which mood, which music’. I would say what I like right now, a Queen album. I watched the movie and it was so cool! Everything is different in this album, so that’s why I like it”.”
“Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Mood.”
“This is Birdy.”
– From the Perch Design, accessories designer
- Christine Elizabeth, fashion textile designer
– Sarah Regensburger, designer
“21” - Meryem Adhami Balkhi
“Bob Marley & the Wailers.” - Leyre Gomez, model & Face of London Runway 2019 Runner-Up
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BACK COVER:Â BACKSTAGE AT PAUL COSTELLOE BY FIL MAZZARINO
