INTERVIEWS WTIH CREATIVES . 2019 IN REVIEW . GATSBY FASHION . MASTERS OF PHOTOGRAPHY REVIEWED
SILK ROAD . LIFESTYLE FASHION WEEK . STORIES FROM ARABIA . FDC YOUNG DESIGNERS . ONES TO WATCH
ISSUE 45 27TH DECEMBER 2019
THE PARTY ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Fil Mazzarino, Hassan Saif Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Chang Chen Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Penelope Andrews, Ram Eagle Photoworks, Vivienne Monique, Ninah Aguila, Reychelle Mendiola, March Joseph Rosales, Rabi Sultan, Christoph Marti, Gloria Punchera, Tanja Buse, Glow Beauty Regina, Ashley Reuncker, Ramanpreet Singh Sohal, Sofie Hall, Krista Strelkova, Lil Safonova, Irina Tomashova, Elizaveta Zelentsova, Darcey Sergison, Sam Singh, Angela Clark, Fashion Scout, Tyffaine Akkouche, Alimah Grasso, Mara Rivola, Martina Morini, Luana Berti, Martini Leoni, Annamaria Missiroli, Chiara Emme Special thanks to Joanna Marcella, Semra Ozer, Alina Deordita, Mercia Braga, Ali Jafar, Damian Simon, E9 Hackney Makers, Hannah and Clive Ledwidge, and Katie Norkina
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Graphic Designers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
40 VISUALS Lifesyle Fashion Week
107 WORDS
9
2019: Our Year at London Runway 4
Vivienne Monique: 7 Designer Looks 23 For Her 7th Birthday (Editorial)
Repeating the Past - How Gatsby Was Right, Twice...
19
Olivia Rubin
31
43
New Faces
35
Fashion Designers and Craft Makers' (FDC) Young Designers Awards at Hackney Attic
Portfolio Piece (Cover Feature)
41
January Sales: The Real Costs
64
Amarah
50
London's Hot New Tattoo Trend
83
Stories of Arabia
53
Your Style Horoscope
85
Style (Conscious) Guide: Out on the Town
59
Masters of Photography Review
98
The Big Question
116
Single Use Plastic (Editorial)
60
Paused Religion (Editorial)
66
Miss Pride of Africa
75
Ones to Watch
78
Silk Road
90
Colours of Life
100
Girls Are Back in Town (Editorial)
107
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Welcome to our final issue of 2019 – can you believe it? And it’s issue 45, too. How far we’ve come! You can enjoy a summary of our year on the next few pages, as we celebrate our best bits and memorable moments. This is the Party Issue, and we’d be remiss if we didn’t bring the party right to your door. We’ve got an exploration of the ultimate party legend in The Great Gatsby, and the fashion that it inspired. Then there’s our pick of the best party outfits for this season, as well as some extravagant and fun editorials that will get you in the mood. We’ve been chatting to designers and creatives at the Young Designer Awards, and then we took a look at some of the best photography courses on the market for those who want to upgrade their skills. A bit of a belated Christmas present for yourself, maybe? It’s a time to reflect, a time to think about the year ahead, and a time for celebrations with family and friends. Make sure that you enjoy this time –
many of us, especially in London, have lots of uncertainty and doubt hanging over the political future, but don’t let that overshadow your festive season too much. The time for that is in the new year, but for now let’s be thankful for what we have. However, there’s never a time of year when it’s not appropriate to keep the welfare of the planet in mind. Now that the frenzy of gifting is over, make sure to educate yourself on what to do with wrapping, cards and envelopes, and all the other trimmings you no long needed. Not everything is recyclable – especially glittery items – but you can do your bit by making sure anything that is gets filed in the right place. Don’t just throw away any unwanted gifts, either! There are plenty of marketplaces where you can unload unwanted clothes, shoes, jewellery, toys, makeup, and so on, from Vinted to Depop to eBay. You can swap with people on Gumtree or just donate everything to a local charity shop if you’re too lazy for uploads.
A final thought about your year ahead: how about setting yourself an eco-friendly challenge? Consider buying only a certain amount of new clothes in 2020, and source the rest from vintage or swap shops. Maybe limit your use of plastics, or go vegan/vegetarian to reduce your impact on the planet. Our 2020 pledge is to go for greener options with our print edition. We’re already looking at eco-friendly compostable packaging for our shipped orders, and we’ve reduced wastage by switching to pre-orders only for the last couple of issues. We’ll keep you updated on that mission throughout the year! For now, though: enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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2019: OUR YEAR AT LONDON RUNWAY JANUARY: Predicted five big YouTube musicians you’d want to listen to this year. The second issue of the month was all about LFW, with Mary Katrantzou’s collection on our cover.
Our memorable interview with Rylands Heath.
FEBRUARY:
We chatted with the Battle of the Beadsmith 2018 winner, Stefania Iucci.
We started off the year with Issue 32 and coverage of London Fashion Week Men’s.
We interview Gayeon Lee, J.WON, and Gary James McQueen.
MARCH:
We hit the milestone of our 35th issue. Our ‘Life of a Collection’ feature, starring designer Luis Bonfiglio, came to a conclusion with an editorial featuring the clothes we’d watched him design. We bid farewell to fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld.
APRIL:
April saw the debut of our short-lived feature, #londonrunwaystyle page. You win some, you lose some! We switched to themed issues with the first ever: the Trade Show Issue, #37 We began the search for our Face of London Runway 2019.
MAY:
Bate Nate H was one of our most memorable cover stars in this slimy photoshoot. We chatted with Kayleigh Paige-Rees about her film, and hinted about an upcoming TV show she was soon to star in (now out as the acclaimed Sanditon!)
JUNE:
Our Graduate Issue explored Graduate Fashion Week and brought you all the best bits. For the first time, we shared extra galleries on our website – as there was simply too much to include in the issue!
JULY:
Our first ever double issue saw Menswear and New Start themes going head to head. This was also the start of our new, revamped monthly issue schedule! Philip Brooks was both our cover star, editorial star, and interviewee in the menswear special. We took our first submissions via Kavyar.
We enjoyed Pride in London as well as Miss Transbeauty 2019.
AUGUST:
We announced the winners of our Face of London Runway 2019 contest!
SEPTEMBER:
LFW came around again, and we took you with us for first-hand accounts of the experience.
We featured a combination of poetry and photography in one of our stunning editorials.
Our Face of London Runway female winner got her cover shoot.
"I think experiencing my first LFW with the team was my highlight. It was exhausting but fascinating! My favourite collection came from Yeung Chin who displayed his work at the pop up shop on Mercer street" - Lauren Rowley, graphic designer.
“Urban Mermaid was my favourite editorial of the year. Such a stunner. Even though it was in the same issue as one of my own photoshoots – I can’t get over how gorgeous it was!” – Rhiannon D’Averc, Chief Editor.
OCTOBER:
We turned it pink for Breast Cancer Awareness month, with the cover dress specially designed for us in honour of the occasion. This was our best-selling and most internationally read issue of the year! Physical copies were shipped as far afield as Russia, the USA, Canada, Australia, and throughout Europe and the UK. We predicted the retail trends you will see through to 2025. We kicked off our Portfolio Piece feature, showcasing artists across a whole body of work.
For the first time, we published a short fiction piece.
NOVEMBER:
Our Black Issue tackled difficult subjects such as mental health in the fashion industry, getting your view and your quotes on how you’ve been affected.
DECEMBER:
And here we are – arriving at the end of the year! Our London Runway Christmas party saw the team coming together to play crazy golf and foosball – just don’t ask about the scores…
Adna's_Libas
Amira Prestige
LIFESTYLE FASHION WEEK Images by Fil Mazzarino
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Ananya
PAGE 10
Fatima Salamat
House of Fashion
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Komal Nasir
Maheen Khan
MD's Fashion Studio
Naika London
Naila's
Purple_Haze
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RDC London + Rashid Malik Jewelry
Saadia Asad
PAGE 15
Sabeen Arshad
Salayfa Day
Salayfa
Sam's Attire
Sehrish Nadeem
Shamooz
Uzee Designers
Yatashi
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LONDON RUNWAY
REPEATING THE PAST – HOW GATSBY WAS RIGHT, TWICE... With party season upon us, Penelope Andrews looks at the ageless attraction of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Jazz Age.
There is possibly nothing more innovative and avant-garde than fashion, a force which so often shocks. But at the same time there seem to be some things we never tire of. When it comes to a New Year’s Eve party, 20’s beads and feathers are never far away. When the 2013 film “The Great Gatsby” from Warner Brothers, directed by Baz Luhrmann wasreleased, costume design was crucial. Luhrmann‘s touch with film always manages to catch the essence of the era he is representing and juxtapose this with the most modern music and design of the time of production to great effect, and perhaps it was this that made the fashion in the film oven-ready to go straight to the public.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2012 Via Youtube
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LONDON RUNWAY
Catherine Martin, Baz’s wife, has been costume designer for his films for the past 22 years. It was reported that the film required nearly 1,000 costume designs. Baz was conscious that the era of the story, whilst a little quaint for us, was fantastically modern and vibrant for F. Scott Fitzgerald, the writer of the original story that the film was adapted from. Baz wanted to bring this factor in to the film, so they worked with Miuccia Prada who had been his personal friend since 1996, when together they designed a suit for Baz’s previous film “Romeo and Juliet.” They adapted 40 dresses from Prada and Miu Miu recent archives that were subtly changed to fit the time
Martin worked with Brooks Brothers on the men’s suits, and together they brought out a GreatGatsby Collection line. The effect on the fashion world was wide-ranging and seductive. Even before the film was released with just the premonition of the visual cornucopia leaking out in the trailers for the film, New York Fashion Week was unmistakably influenced. Georgina Chapman, Keren Craig, Marc Jacobs and Tory Burch all featured nods to the ghost of Daisy Buchanan. Dropped waists, strings of pearls, shift dresses, fringes, feathers and Art Deco designs were everywhere. In April 2013,Tiffany & Co.created
windows in Fifth Avenue with Luhrmann and Martin, and featured The Great Gatsby Collection line of jewellery before the film was released. Hackett, Canali and Alexander McQueen followed suit, if you will excuse the pun, with 20s inspired Spring/Summer shows in 2013, as did Ralph Lauren and Gucci in 2012, and Vera Wang’s bridalcollection the following year. What was wonderful was that, as in the 2013 film, the style was not nostalgic. In its heyday the flapper look was shocking and thoroughly modern, and the current day catwalks did not lose their cutting edge to mere cliché but caught something of that zeitgeist. Geometric
Via pexels.com
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LONDON RUNWAY
jade coloured designs cut a dash along the runway, with fringes and dropped waists reworked. Out of all these designers, however, only Lauren had been here before, and the previous occasion had helped launch his career. In 1974, when Newdon Productions released Jack Clayton’s film version of the classic book, Punk, one of most authentically original fashion movements of the people was just emerging. Ziggy Stardust, Abba: funk and disco were the trend, and yet suddenly there appeared summer whites, cable jumpers, white ruffle high collar blouses throughout stores. There could be no doubt it was due directly to the release of The Great Gatsby. Costume designer Theoni V. Aldredge won an Oscar for her work in the film, and her designs were adapted for a Bloomingdales clothing line, but it was Ralph Lauren who was invited to design Robert Redford’s suits.
Via pexels.com
It was essential that these suits worked. The myth of Jay Gatsby was all about the look he created, as shown in the classic shot where he showers Daisy in his exquisite shirts. Fitzgerald describes these beautifully in the book, “stripes and scrolls and plaids in coral and apple-green and lavender and faint orange, with monograms of Indian blue.” So getting the quality and exclusive ambience of this look right was essential to the telling of the story. This is shown even more clearly in the moment when Daisy Buchanan said to Gatsby, at the crunch point of the plot as he stood before her in a perfect pink suit, that “You always look so cool.”
Via YouTube /Warner Bros
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LONDON RUNWAY
Via YouTube Movies/Paramount Pictures Corp
Lauren himself favoured a traditional cut of suit, so this opportunity was a perfect match for his design. The rest of the male cast were dressed in clothing from his Polo line and the influence of these designs made the film the front cover of Time magazine in March of that year. Lauren went on to use fabric influences from the film in his womenswear for 1974, for which he won the Coty award. Fast forward nearly 40 years, and in 2012, Lauren made sure he was ahead of the tide and released a Spring ready-to-wear collection before the Luhrmann’s film was released in the JazzAge style. Shimmering pastels were mixed with mid-range blues and greens to striking effect. Cloche hats and beaded bags were given a completely fresh look, while retaining an unmistakable reference to the 1920’s. The whole effect is incredibly feminine and full of youthful blossom.
He says in his book Ralph Lauren, “When I was a young man going to college I always loved the Ivy League look, its ease and tradition. My inspiration came from old yearbooks and images of collegians from Princeton, Harvard, and Yale. I loved the oldness, the custom mood of navy blazers, school crests, rep ties, flannels, and saddle shoes.” And so it is no wonder that Lauren’s Spring/Summer Collection this year had a host of Gatsby-esque designs. Working again with a classic loose trouser and high waisted look, this season was full of a nautical, classy style shimmering with blacks and gold complementing the simple whites. It shows much more of an angular Deco style. It becomes astonishing how Lauren can keep recreating from the same palette something essentially completely unique.
is telling. ‘Can’t repeat the past?’ [Gatsby] cried incredulously. ‘Why of course you can!’ If you’d ask Ralph Lauren, I think he’d think that Jay was right.
If you have enjoyed this article, you can find more of Penelope’s writing at peneloperuthandrews.wordpress.com
In Fitzgerald’s book, Nick comments to Gatsby that you can’t repeat the past. But Gatsby’s reply
Via YouTube /Warner Bros
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VIVIENNE MONIQUE
：
7 DESIGNER LOOKS FOR HER 7TH BIRTHDAY
In line with her birthday and to celebrate her love for fashion, we have been privileged to showcase seven beautiful outfits from different fashion designers from around the world. Set in iconic landmarks in London and Rome, she dressed up and poses for the camera from the grand staircases of St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, which is most memorable as the backdrop for the Spice Girls’ Wannabe music video. She also put forward her royalty poses in front of statue of Queen Victoria in St James’s Park and at the Buckingham Palace, the official residence of her majesty, Queen Elizabeth II.
Photography - Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle Stylist: Ninah Aguila Hair & Make Up By: Reychelle Mendiola Cinematography: March Joseph Rosales
THE AVANT-GARDE Designer: Rocky Gathercole @verygathercole
THE FLAMBOYANT Designers: Alora Safari @alorasafari & Bacchanalia Mas Band@bacchanalia_uk Olivia wears: Sleeveless Cotton Shirt - £90, Suyeon Choi
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She also explored the ravishingly rundown terrace of Hampstead Pergola with its unique garden and splendour offering of the lovely views over the Heath and Hampstead Hill. Vivienne Monique’s seven designer outfits showcased different looks on being magnificent, flamboyant, divine, sophisticated, enthral, allure and avantgarde.
THE SWEET Designers: MM Milano @official_mmmilano @official_chonabacaoco
THE ALLURE Designer: Models Wardrobe @models.wardrobe Olivia wears: Sleeveless Cotton Shirt - £90, Suyeon Choi
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THE MAGNIFICENT Designer: Adrianna Ostrowska Couture @adriannaostrowskacouture
Olivia wears: Sleeveless Cotton Shirt - £90, Suyeon Choi
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THE DIVINE Designer: JAL Fashion UK @jalfashionuk_official
Olivia Rubin Photography by Rabi Sultan
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LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
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FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
READ ONLINE ON ISSUU
NEW FACE Name: Gloria Pünchera Age: 21 Location: I am currently living in Zurich. Agency: Metropolitan Models Paris, Option Model Agency How long have you been modelling for? I started modeling with the Elite Model look back in 2015. Where are you from originally? Originally, I am Swiss and living in the tiny little 'Fashion Metropolis' Zurich.
Location: Studio Switzerland Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti Model: Gloria Pünchera at Option Model Zurich / Metropolitan Models Paris @Gloriapunchera Wardrobe Stylist: Tanja Busé
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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Well, it's always a question of what exactly is counted as a talent, if it is being a stunning dancer or the clumsy fellow standing next to the dancer. I think both descriptions have its own value and guess that I am probably a great mixture of it. What would surprise people to know about you? I think, I have never been seen as a 100% Swissy. People always guess countries like Spain, Italy or even China and Peru. What are your modelling ambitions? I think the whole fashion world is giving a young women like me more than just a hand full of great options. Be it working with a great team, getting to know interesting people, new places or even yourself are just a few of them.
NEW FACE Name: Sofie Hall Age: I’m 18 years old, 19 in a couple of months Location: Regina Saskatchewan Agency: I’m with Edge agency How long have you been modelling for? I have modelled throughout my whole life but have been seriously invested for the past few months. Where are you from originally? Small town Regina Saskatchewan
Makeup Artist: Glow Beauty Regina @glowbeautyregina Hair Stylist: Ashley Ruecker @hairbyashleyruecker Photographer: Ramanpreet Singh Sohal @rammysohal Model: Sofie Hall at Edge Agency @sofie.hall
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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? My party trick is that i never get tired on the dance floor What would surprise people to know about you? People are often surprised when I tell them I’m naturally blonde and have been dying my hair dark since I can remember What are your modelling ambitions? My modelling ambitions are to see the world while having a career that I enjoy and learn from the experiences that modelling gives me
NEW FACE Name: Kristina Strelkova Age: 26 Location: Russia, Moscow Agency: freelance
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I always had a talent in applied art, I knit well, draw.
How long have you been modelling for? 7 years
What would surprise people to know about you? Mmm... Sometimes I write poetry, I ride a horse very well, I studied at the theatre school for a year, but in the end I am engaged in technical mathematics and it's not creative work, I guess you can say that I am developed in different fields. And I also knit sweaters, toys for children, but I don’t use instructions - knitting patterns, I don’t understand anything at all in it, that is, when I knit, I do it intuitively.
Where are you from originally? I was born and spent my childhood in the Mineralnye Vody city, this is a small city in the North Caucasus of Russia, then I moved to Moscow with my parents, where I studied in international University and also began to practice modelling.
Model: Krista Strelkova @krista_strelkova Photographer: Lil Safonova @lilphotographer.ru Dress - Intimissimi
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What are your modelling ambitions? I would like to pursue only a modelling and acting career and make from it.
Carcinoma
Planeta-C My name is Irina Tomashova, I’m an artist and fashion illustrator in Republic of Karelia (Russia). Planeta-C focuses on an important topic of our time: a disease called carcinoma. Carcinoma is caused by stress imposed on humans from living in modern society. The fast speed of life, emotional stress and focus on materialism all contributes to the development of carcinoma. With this project I aim to draw the attention away from elements that cause stress and enable humans to realize what’s important to focus on. To support my art I am leveraging Ancient Greek techniques that first enabled the identification of carcinoma and its origin. Personally having faced the influence of a disease on a human being, as when my father got ill with cancer, I would like to share my lessons learned through my art.
portfolio piece
War
Illustrator: Irina Tomashova @irina.tomashova_ All art is 30*40; gouache
Emotions
Information space
Irina Tomashova
Relationship
LONDON RUNWAY
FASHION DESIGNERS AND CRAFT MAKERS’ (FDC)
YOUNG DESIGNER’S AWARDS AT HACKNEY ATTIC Candice brings you back to the FDC Young Designers Award in October. Two up-and-coming designers competed for a chance to win the title of The Radical Designer of the Year 2019 and showcase their collections in New York! The evening was also filled with amazing creatives, makers, and industry professionals looking to network and connect. Candice chatted to some of them on the night.
ORGANIZER: JOANNA MARCELLA About Joanna So, my name is Joanna Marcella, and I’m the founder of the Young Designer’s Awards and various other awards connected to [them]. I studied art, so my background is in art. Apart from that (in regards to fashion), I’m self-taught. My mother taught me to knit, so when I first started my company, I was producing hand-knits for children. I would sell to boutiques and do small batches. It was really enjoyable and making the same profit as adult clothes. I could put a price to my work. It was a combination of doing some courses, taught by my mother, self teaching, and just developing from there.
About the Young Designer’s Awards I started my first awards in 1995. We did that in the design centre in Islington, and we’ve done it almost every year since. Some occasions, we’ve been lucky to get sponsors, so we’ve managed to showcase in NYFW, Caribbean Fashion Week and Vancouver Fashion Week. One of the things I wanted to do was that sometimes we might have a winner, and for whatever reason, that winner might not be selected for the fashion weeks, so we wanted to still offer them an opportunity.
Art by E9Makers
Because I’m raising awareness for this condition, Angelman Syndrome (AS), I’d love to do something in New York where our winners could showcase there. It’s a show that I’m putting on.
Some designers are not aware of what it takes to put on a show. If there’s four of you on a team, just go to one show. If one person’s ill, they still have enough to attend.
I’ve done three shows this year. One in the Hackney Attic, Pullman Hotel, and Birmingham, and I do a show every year in New York. But, I didn’t go to New York this year because I did three shows this year.
There’s an opportunity here where industry professionals could really talk to new designers and really give them some guidance as to that commitment, being motivated, sticking to your word… it’s all part of not even the event but for your own business.
About the Show Preparation
From the perspective of the organiser, that’s really difficult.
It was hard putting on this event. We’ve had so many people come on board, and we tell press and start planning. Then we have to take names off because they drop out. That’s very stressful. I actually feel like some designers need mentoring.
I see other people organise events and smile, but you hear that it’s stressful. I don’t want that to throw me off because I still enjoy what I do. I’m making an impact whether it’s big or small. Sometimes by giving one designer their first show ever, it’s like encouragement to go on. I do love it.
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LONDON RUNWAY
I work with designers from nine to twenty. I had winners that were as young as ten. It wasn’t baby work, and they did the work themselves. They have to attend progress meetings and explain to me the processes. I could tell they did the work themselves. I do find that the people in America are a bit more excitable. I told a photographer that I was having an event, and he asked if there was anything he could do or help with. I was like, “I don’t have anything yet. I was just planning it.” It’s just different. “Do you need help?” “Is there anything I can do?” I find that creative people are actually quite selfish. If they’re part of something, they want to benefit, benefit, benefit, and do little videos and so on. They do little videos about them, but they help promote us as a result too. The people here in comparison are a bit more reserved.
About this Event In terms of this event, it’s a little different in comparison to the others. I wanted it to be more intimate and press to leave knowing the designers. I really wanted designers, whether they were in the awards or presenting, to really connect with bloggers or magazines and really have that one to one interview. An informal gathering of designers coming to meet with the press. Press coming to meet the designers. I want to build on that. The awards are usually more formal, but it can be a part of an event like this. I also want to do a writer’s awards. All of those that do come, the next event, I wanted to give an award to the most interesting writer. Again, I don’t know if I got that message across, but that’s what I want to work on.
About the Future of the Awards My vision is just to take it to other countries. So far, I’ve been to America. I want to go back to America. I want to go to Australia.
Because I’m supporting this condition (AS), there are certain parts of the world where they have charities, so in America, in Illinois I think, they have a charity. When I do my event in New York, the ticket sales will go there. There’s also a charity here (in London). This [event] wasn’t a fundraiser, but if it was, it would go there. There’s also a charity in Australia connected to the American one.
It’s part of the nervous system. Either a missing or dormant gene from the mother’s side. They’re trying to find a cure. You don’t want to dismiss it. You want to encourage it. I was able to join some of the groups and charities. When I do an event in New York, the charity sets up the ticket link, and it goes straight to the charity.
They have to be quite big so that we can feasibly go over. It’s a rare disease. Imagine like autism. It would be hard for me to promote if there are only a few people with the syndrome there. If it’s not known that there are people there with that condition, it won’t be as effective initially. I’m old now though. I would continue these awards for as long as I’m healthy. I’m changing things. Eventually, it might be once every two years. I want to go on as long as possible but evolving it
About Angelman Syndrome My grandson is now eleven. When he was diagnosed with this condition, I just concentrated on this condition. He was about two when he was diagnosed. This particular condition, they’re born with it. There isn’t much to indicate that it’s there, but as they develop when they get to a year or two, the parents see that they’re either not walking or saying the words. Sometimes they have seizures. At that point, parents can tell that there’s a delay in the development, so when they’re born, you can’t see it. They just look like any other baby. Some doctors don’t know the condition either. All the people laugh a lot. That’s one of the signs. They can’t walk, non-verbal, laugh a lot, have seizures, have difficulty sleeping— they have to be looked after because they don’t know danger. This charity in Illinois is trying to find a cure, but how can you find a cure? They’re looking to have something to give to the people to wake up a dormant gene or put something in them to create something.
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Art by Damian
DESIGNERS: WINNER: SEMRA OZER ÖZRSEM @OZRSEM About Semara MA Fashion student at Kingston University.
About özrsem “Reinvention of Tradition” (Turkish designs mixed with British scrap leather)
RUNNER UP: ALINA DEORDITA @ALINA_DEORDITA About Alina I’m Alina. I’m from Moldova. It’s a small country between Romania and Ukraine. I came to England one year ago. I’m working like dress making, but I’m doing my course in fashion design and trying to find myself in fashion design. I hope it works!
LONDON RUNWAY
RUNNER UP: MERCIA BRAGA - About Ali My name is Ali Jafar, and I’m 29 years NORDESTE COUTURE old. I live in Amsterdam. I have studied @MERCIABBRAGA/@NORDE fashion and craft making. I have lots of experience with big designers in STECOUTURE Holland. This is my first collection. About Mercia My name is Mercia Braga. I’m from Brazil, but I lived in New York City for 20 years. I’ve been an artisan since I was 15 years old. I learned the technique myself in Brazil, and I studied fashion business in New York. I graduated fashion design in New York City 3 years ago. I’ve had my company for 2 years now, so I’m new to the business. I use a lot of techniques from my country. One technique is like a lace made by hand. It’s like a twist step, and you make like a fishnet for the first phase. And then you make flowers. I do a lot of things by hand. I love handmade, so here I am! I just came to London to show my collection.
About the Process and Meshali Fashion I get inspired by carpets because lots of people have [them] at home, work. Lots of people have their own unique personalities in carpets. I like that it is fitting on the body… when a woman is fitted good on the body, not loose, I like that. I like when a woman wears unique garments and she feels comfortable inside. This is my mission when I have my own brand. She feels sexy and comfortable. It's not so thin but not so thick. I wanted to be unique and daring. That’s why I choose some garments. I’ve seen lots of shows that are simple. They can have their own personality. But, I want to be a daring designer, that’s why I use carpet. For me, it’s unique. I hope that I can inspire people.
About Nordeste Couture When I studied, everything started to go really slow, but then it started to go really fast. I got invitations to show somewhere and participate in business. I started to make a business that people like, and since this is all handmade, I start little because I have to do one by one specific to people, small sizes and colours. I’m not dependant on this, so I can take my time and go slow. I had the option to go to mass production, but I decided to stick with my passion. I love this. People like the many styles. Because my collection is really unique and new, even though the technique is old, I try to introduce something new here in London.
RUNNER UP: ALI JAFAR MESHALI FASHION @MESHALIFASHION
ARTISTS AND MAKERS: DAMIAN SIMON - BASR BILLION ART
About the Creation Process I’m a visual artist. I create my art primarily using a biro or a brick pen. Once I’ve created the image, if the image is strong enough at that stage, then I’ll stop. If not, then we’ll add some colour.
About Ministry of Art With Ministry of Art, we’re a collective of artists that are particularly are black and ethnic minority. At the Goldsmith exhibition last week, we had Turkish artists, Columbians, Jamaicans, South Africans… just all over the world to try and give a platform to people who don’t normally have the platform to exhibit in a beautiful place like Goldsmith, and we want to do more in the future. I did an exhibition at the Goldsmith Academy University last week with lots of other exhibitions coming up.
E9 HACKNEY MAKERS @E9MAKERS Founders: @lisadevaney; @fi_rbackhouse; @sturgeonadorn Member: @leavalleyart
About Damian For myself, before I could even remember, I’ve always drawn. I know everyone does that as a child, but I just didn’t stop. I tell you the truth, my love affair with art began with comic books because as a kid at seven, people were buying sweeties with their pocket money. I would save mine and buy my comics, and I would literally sit there and redraw the drawings. Hour after hour after hour after hour… After a while, the skill would just develop and become a part of you. Practice, practice, practice.
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About the Team L: I’m Lisa Devaney, and I’m with the E9 Makers of Hackney’s Homerton. I’m a painter, and my colleagues are with me today. One is a photographer, jewellery maker, and another painter. E9 stands for our postal code, and it’s geographically where we’re all based, met, and create! We originally met through our children who are enrolled in the local schools. We came together and realised that we’re all creators and making things individually and decided to form a group to empower us and show our work around the community.
LONDON RUNWAY
F: We’re like Mega Mums. Mumpreneurs (mums + entrepreneurs). A more balanced lifestyle is how we see it. There are times where we’ve done workshops or pop-ups where they join or help us. My name is Fi Backhouse. I’m part of the E9 Makers collective. I do photography, and I use my photography as part of my product line whenever I do the arts pop-up. I also run the E9 Makers workshops. We do art based mindfulness workshops to remind people to take time out, slow down using art to refocus and align.
MUSICIANS: HANNAH LEDWIDGE - COFOUNDER OF AD-LIB MUSIC CLIVE LEDWIDGE - BROTHER TO HANNAH, PRODUCER AND CO-FOUNDER OF AD-LIB MUSIC
About E9 Makers
About the Team
L: Fi provides monthly workshops at the Hatch in Homerton, which is a cafe, and we do drawings and paintings. We usually hold it on the third Monday of every month. The workshops are £10 with all materials included, and we sometimes have guests artists to teach and share. It’s Mindfulness and Art, and it’s just a good morning. That’s something Fi came up with.
C: I’m Clive Ledwidge from Ad-lib Music. We put on events and teach music. I deal with background and organization stuff.
F: We’ve been using local areas and cafes and community spaces to run our workshops. We try to keep it average pricing so anyone can afford it. We use tools from collage to fabric, paint, photography, and lots of anything that are easily accessible. We call it Monday Motivation. It’s really early in the morning to start you off. You focus on a style of art. It’s a challenge and a new skill. Stepping away from the everyday using art to re-energise. It runs for two hours.
About the Future of E9 F: I love taking pictures of people. I did lots of gigs and events. It came to a point where I wanted to create art-based photography. One of the reasons why we came up with the collective was to create more art. We still have our day jobs because we obviously still need to make bread and butter. Haha! L: My main goal is to keep on making! To not drop it and keep up with it. Work with my colleagues and continue doing pop-ups and workshops. The biggest thing is to bring joy into the community because it’s a great way to bring positivity into the world.
H: I’m Hannah Ledwidge— musician, producer, and director of Ad-lib Music as well. We do music, tuition, and music events. We’re based in East London. C: We liked music from an early age. With us, we grew up in church, and that was a big influence on us. The background where we’re from, there’s a lot of music, so my brother’s into music. Just a lot of music really, and that’s both of our interests and how we started. H: We grew up in a family where we always had music going on. We could play at church, and that’s how I learned. I literally just got on the drums at church and was like, “Oh, okay!” H: I play percussion, guitar and piano, and I produce music. It all comes together. C: I play a little bit of drums. Haha!
H: Building something that was bigger than ourselves and wanting to help others along. C: We’ve done quite a few things. The first thing is teaching. We teach one to ones up to groups. At the moment, we’re working with a church group where we’re teaching keyboard and drums. We’ve been in it for more than a year now with this particular group. We got there and do groups of two every half hour. The other thing we do is a showcase every month giving our students and tutors opportunities. It’s escalated and evolved now. We’ve even got local musicians coming in and volunteering to play now, so that’s something else that has tied in and is part of our big picture. H: Yes, yes. We’ve done music events and teaching, drum workshops, mentoring… a full spectrum really. C: The Jager in Dalston is where we hold the showcases once a month. The format is really where the tutors perform, then students, and local musicians. It’s a real night for music lovers. Giving the musicians a platform. H: We’ve had ticketed and free events. It’s really open to everyone, and we’ve had loads of people come through. C: We’ve even had our first open mic, as well. It turned out really well, so we’re gonna do another one hopefully in December. People just came on the night and came up and started to sing. H: Yeah, it was pretty cool. C: A whole spectrum. “From streets to the stage” is our big idea and what we wanna see.
About Ad-Lib Music C: Going around, seeing lots of potential and wanting to work with them. We thought about having a platform for them to be able to express themselves. We saw their potential and knew how hard it was to get on in the music industry, as well, so we wanted to offer our services in terms of teaching. That was the idea behind the two things coming together.
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FASHION DESIGNERS AND CRAFT MAKERS' YOUNG DESIGNERS AWARDS
Images via FDC
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AMARAH Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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STORIES OF ARABIA Designers: Nora Al Abdullah, Samira Al-Halawani, 1Mor, Estilo by Haifa AlSudairi, The Black Pearl Images by Fil Mazzarino
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE LONDON RUNWAY
ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc
LALE Earrings in Gold Artisan & Fox $158
Fitzroy Stripe Organic Cotton Shirt Thought £49.90
Print Room Black Belt Elvis and Kresse £58.50
'How Can I Be A Mermaid?' Shell Purse Olli Hull £55
Venus Gown Introvert London £60
Commission Your Own Brooch Ellis + Noronha £45
Skinny Tuxedo Blazer in Navy ASOS Design £60
Prom Velvet
Sneak V in Off-White PoZu £110
Ganor Dominic Apollo Marble £600
OUT ON THE TOWN PAGE 30
Regular Dunn Jeans Dip Dry Black Mud Jeans £109
SINGLE-USE PLASTIC Art Director: Elizaveta Zelentsova @veta_zzz The pictures were taken in a unique place in Russia called Divnogorye. Clothing and accessories were created by me from plastic collected around me in a fairly short time. The global trend towards informed consumption, in my opinion, is very correct, but until every person in the world has found a reason to make a choice in their favour, such things should be shown. Thanks for your attention!
LONDON RUNWAY
JANUARY SALES: THE REAL COSTS This week Darcey Sergison discusses the true cost of January sales and whether they contributes to the cycle of fast fashion. It’s a New Year with the same sales. January sales are one of the most popular seasons of sales throughout the year. Despite the savings, is this form of consumerism good for anyone other than yourself? Granted, it’s tempting to be drawn in by the 50%-plus signs lining the streets of the country, but these sales do come at a price - even if it is not for us. They create more waste in society with the increased demand. The sales promote a wasteful outlook and fuel our short attention spans on ethical and environmental matters. I want to highlight the concerns associated with the greed in consumption of products over Christmas and New Year and how we should choose cleaner and fairer products. The sales are notoriously popular, with many people waking up in the early hours in the hope that they can bag the best bargains. But with many brands opting out of Black Friday sales for environmental reasons, maybe it’s time for the January sales to follow their lead.
There are many ways of balancing this consumption with reducing waste. It is important to realise that rather than piling up purchases, some items that are no longer wanted can be re-loved by someone else. Before buying something new, you should have a clear out of all your old clothes and either sell them online or give them to your local charity shop. By giving your clothes to charity you are helping others who may be less fortunate as well as reducing the amount of clothes that end up at landfill sites. Clothes that are not made of 100% natural fibres will take decades to break down, so why send them to the landfill site when you can give them to someone else to wear? Rather than buying clothes from the sales, you could consider hiring them instead. In the UK there has been a rapid increase in the amount of companies allowing you to hire clothes ranging from an everyday jumpsuit to a ball gown. Instead of buying something from a sale which you may never wear again, it is a more cost effective and environmentally friendly method to hire the clothes.
Consumerism seems to only be growing, even with the knowledge of the damage it is causing to our world. But it is time to change this approach of buying mindlessly to a more conscious form of consumerism. Until big brands stop having January sales, people are still likely to go and buy from them, but there are still ways in which you can consume consciously. This will fuel a greener economy with less wasteful consuming and more ethical thinking. What if you could consume more ethically or at least reduce your waste?
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Traditionally it has been common for men to hire different varieties of suits, so now that women’s clothing has become more popular to hire, why not give it a go? Hirestreet have used their Instagram platform to build a keen following, with celebrities also hiring outfits. This shows how the trend of hiring clothes is the newest form of combatting fast fashion and creating a sustainable future. Conscious consumerism can grow with the increase of buying high quality and timeless pieces. By buying high quality clothes, which tend not to be included in the January sales, this will reduce your spending and waste as the clothes will last longer and not feed the cycle of fast fashion. Most high street store sales tend to be known for their low-quality wear and tear, with most sale items not remaining the same shape or colour for long after their purchase. This doesn’t mean that designer brands are the only high quality, but it is important to choose the brands that you buy from carefully. Not only should you choose the brands that will last, but also choose the brands that care. Increasingly, major fashion
LONDON RUNWAY monopolies are noticing the power of caring for more than just economic growth. Instead the environment is rising on the agenda. This move is crucial as movements such as Extinction Rebellion have shown that our environment is at a tipping point, and that fashion industry consumerism needs to change. Ranging from H&M to Stella McCartney, to name a few, companies are realising how consumers are more environmentally and ethically conscious when buying, which means brands are changing to meet these needs. Whether this be from avoiding sales altogether or donating proceeds from sales to charities, fashion is slowing down. This time of the year will encourage many to reflect on 2019 and how we can improve in the new year. By participating in the January sales, buying needlessly, not thinking about the process of the clothes being made, and the waste this demand has created, it is not breaking away from the waste of 2019 but instead perpetuating more demand and waste into 2020. We should all treat 2020 as a fresh start and a chance to buy ethically and environmentally, rather than just buying for our own needs. Sales may let you save money, but they do have larger social costs.
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Paused Religion Photographer - Sam Singh @foto.vogue Model - Angela Clark @angelaclark.theone
Angela wears: Dress - Zimmermann; Shoes - Ana Povoa
Angela wears: Dress - Zimmermann; Shoes - Ana Povoa
Angela wears: Dress - Zimmermann; Shoes - Ana Povoa
Angela wears: Dress - Carla Zampatti
Angela wears: Dress - Carla Zampatti; Shoes - Gianvito Rossi
Angela wears: Dress - Zimmermann
Angela wears: Dress - Zimmermann; Shoes - Christian Louboutin
Angela wears: Dress Zimmermann
Angela wears: Dress Zimmermann; Heels - Jimmy Choo
Miss Pride of Africa Photography by Fil Mazzarino
AV
ONES Images via Fashion Scout
TO WATCH
Gala Borovic
IA London
Gala Borovic
IA London
IA London
Studio Adaptive
Studio Adaptive
LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON’S HOT NEW TATTOO TREND:
THE HAND POKE METHOD EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT Tyffaine Akkouche talks with London-based hand poke tattoo artist Katie Norkina about her personal style and journey as an artist.
Sitting down in Katie Norkina’s cosy home studio, I can’t help but feel instantly at ease. Her friendly demeanour and charming personality adds to the lovely atmosphere she’s created with stuffed animals in the corner and the picturesque suburban London as the backdrop. Gaining her tattoo training in St Petersburg, the 24-year-old moved here from Russia earlier this year and has slowly but surely created a following on Instagram, working with many popular influencers in order to grow and reach further audiences. She is now based in the White House Urban Retreat where you can find her poking on the weekends. Being both intelligent and determined, Katie’s self-made success story is one to aspire to. How did you get started in tattooing? I never really thought about it actuallyI never knew what my direction would be and one day I just sat down with myself and thought about what makes me actually happy. Then I realised the place I’ve always taken comfort from is art and drawing. It was like putting two and two together - I loved tattoos and I loved art, so it just made sense. I immediately started my hand poke training and realised I was quite good! Why do you practise stick and poke instead of the usual gun method? Hand poke is just like a normal tattoo except I’m simply manually poking the skin with the needle rather than
the machine. For me I hate the noise of the tattoo gun, I want the experience to be relaxing and as pain free as possible. It’s just closer to my style and who I am as a person, the atmosphere that I can create with the stick and poke method makes it more personal to me and the client - like I’m actually working every single dot of their tattoo. I love the process and I love seeing people happy with my work. What was doing your first tattoo like? I never used any fake skin or anything like that, I went straight to human skin! My first model was so amazing and encouraging - even though my hands were shaking she still had faith, haha. The first design was a rose, but I remember thinking how strange it was drawing something for someone and them deciding they wanted this on their bodies for their whole lives. It’s
quite special but I was constantly asking ‘Are you sure you like this?! Are you sure?’ but once I got used to that I had a more ‘Let’s do this’ attitude. What is your tattoo style? I feel like I haven’t really found my true style yet; that’s my plan for the future, to do as muchwork as possible in order to find myself in this art. Right now I would describe my designs as dainty, using shading to enhance the realism of them at times. I love doing writings and nature-based designs - I think it’s really important for the tattoo artists to enjoy the design they’re doing, that is when it turns out the best. I try to make my clients feel as comfortable and happy as possible during the process. It’s not just about what tattoo you want but from whom you get it. What would you say to people who are against tattoos?
All images via Katie's Instagram
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Ahh, the typical ‘Your tattoo will look bad when you are old’ - We will all look bad when we’re old! Tattoos are amazing ways to express yourself and actually so many people love tattoos, but I also found many people like the process, the pain is actually nice for some believe it or not. I also believe tattoos have become a big trend, and as hand poke is quite a basic, stylish thing people aren’t scared to do it. What should people look for in a tattoo artist? First think about what kind of design you want, but I would really recommend picking an artist’s personal design as you know this came from their soul. Follow a bunch of artists on Instagram and get to know their style and personality it’s important for the design to be in harmony with the artist. I know some tattoo artists who turned away clients simply because their personalities didn’t get on - you need the experience to be a positive, happy one or it could lead to regrets. What’s been your biggest struggle as a tattoo artist? Honestly trying to justify the price to some people is quite hard. There are always a few people who try to get deals and have a lower price, but I don’t know why they think they’re entitled to that. It can be upsetting because that means they don’t value my work as an artist. People in
London are a lot more understanding than in Russia though, I was really encouraged to increase my price when I came here because it was so low. My prices start at £50 but the average tattoo is around £90 it’s much cheaper than in a proper studio but at this point I’m doing small, cute stuff so I feel comfortable charging that much. How did you establish yourself in London? When I first came to London, I tried finding a studio, but many turned me away because I had just started and all my followers were from back home. Nobody really wanted to help, and it was really hard to get a lot of rejections because although they told me it was due to not having space for me it started to feel like actually I just wasn’t that good. That’s when I thought fuck them really, so I started my own business. I followed a ton of people on Instagram and built a following - it was all word of mouth, friends of friends of friends were coming and that’s how my name went out. My work with influencers is important as their followers trust them and when they see the result is successful they come to me and feel safer getting work done. What does your future look like? I would love to open up my own
studio in London. I love the concept of it being exclusively hand poke tattoos as it’s not very common. I also want to move away from the scary stereotype of tattoo parlours where the big muscley, heavily tattooed guy welcomes you with a grunt. I want it to be a super relaxed, comfy atmosphere - I don’t think that's a very common environment when getting a tattoo. What advice would you give to a beginner hand poke artist? I’ve actually created a starter hand poke kit for beginners- it’s everything you need to learn how to poke. From instructions on how to set up your station to the actual material you need, even simple designs. I’m selling them for £50, it’s a great gift for someone who is interested in learning this craft! As a beginner I felt too nervous to tell people about what I was doing, but honestly, I’d advise to talk to as many people about it as possible you’ll be surprised about how many people are cool with being a tester model for you especially if it’s for free. Just get as much practise as possible because that’s how you improve.
You can find Katie poking at White House Urban Retreat in Knightsbridge on the weekends. Visit her instagram @HEART.POKE to see more of her designs and booking slots.
LONDON RUNWAY
YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice brings you festive party dresses that will last throughout the weeks of celebrations while also making our planet last with each sustainably and ethically made garment!
Aries March 21 - April 20
A statement dress for a passionate sign, this Misa dress by Aydeniz has a nice flowy silhouette to mute the loud print. If the print is too much, simply calm it down more with a black leather biker jacket or blazer.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Mother of Pearl’s Matilda dress is made from all natural fibres. Thedraping tie sleeves add a bit of elegance, which is further elevatedwith the pastel pink— perfect for the fashion-forward sign.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Playful, airy, and bubbly, just like the sign, this two-toned silk dress by AGAATI will float with every jump and twirl of the partying, carefree sign.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22
Monsoon’s Sigourney satin midi dress in teal adds a bit of fun colour to a feminine silhouette for the classy Cancer. The colour is just dark enough to not draw too much unwanted attention.
Leo July 23- August 21
Reformation’s Hamlet dress in ochre is slim fitting, sexy, and screams LEO! The goldish yellow colour adds to the magnetic charisma of these stand-out signs.
Virgo August 22- September 23
A bit out of the comfort zones of these very structured signs, Mara Hoffman’s Arabella mustard yellow and straight skirt keeps Virgos still within their usual style preferences with an added bit of fun on top.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Libra September 24- October 23 You can never go wrong with Stella McCartney. Their pink Delia Dress, with the flare sleeves and reflective gold accents, compliment these feminine and romantic signs perfectly without being too flashy.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 Edgy with a bit of sauce, wrap dresses can go from elegant to sexy in a snap. Perfect for the intense Scorpio, the bright lipstick red maxi wrap dress by Symbology will be a welcome change from their usual black attire.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
Beaumont Organic’s INEZ dress in deep indigo is the perfect baseto be jazzed up with any festive accessories for any occasion.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Capricorn December 23- January 20
Capricorn can be sophisticated and daring in this beige Ravine Slip dress by Titania Inglis. If they get chilly or a bit shy, just pop a warm, wool cardigan over, and they’ll be cozy and still slaying!
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Known for their eclectic style, this stunning Green Palm Leaf Hand-Batik Silk Solange dress by Studio 189 will stand out at any party. With the wrap dress design, comfort isn’t lost.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
These free-spirited signs will love Amur’s Daria dress. The cutout front, off the shoulder sleeves and slit detailing give a bit of excitement to the longsleeved gown, but the delicate floral pattern and flowy material keeps the signs feeling ethereal and soft.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers
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Hespara Couture
SILK ROAD Scuderia Ferrari Owners Club X Silk Road Fashion Show
Photography by Rabi Sultan
JAL Fashion UK
Assymura
Okasana Kalinina
Aristocracy London
Belze Boutik
MASTERS OF PHOTOGRAPHY REVIEW Recently, Rhiannon D'Averc took all three of the current Masters of Photography courses available through their website. These are instructional lessons taught by Albert Watson, Steve McCurry, and Joel Meyerowitz respectively. Here’s some of what she learned, and what she thought of the courses as a whole.
Best Instructor For me, the best of the three was Joel Meyerowitz. He has such a personable style and is so interesting – every gem out of his mouth was a bit of wisdom I had to hastily scrawl down to keep a record of it. He also has an infectious passion which really inspires you to go out and create. I loved the stories behind his work, and seeing him thrust into a fresh day of work on the streets to see what he could find was also so interesting. There’s something about Meyerowitz that makes you feel as though everything he has to say is important – and that’s certainly accurate in regards to this course. It was also such a comprehensive overview of his working life as a photographer, from taking shots right the way through to planning exhibitions and books, which felt very valuable. Meyerowitz also does a hands-on portfolio review with some students, which is not something included in the other courses, and it’s a really great addition to the format. You get to see how he deals with the work of others and how his teachings can be applied no matter your style.
Best Working Example During the courses, the three photographers also go out and about and take shots right in front of you. This is a great opportunity to watch them work, and really adds value. While I enjoyed watching Meyerowitz on the streets of New York and McCurry in Cuba, my favourite example was actually Watson’s studio work.
He put together a really comprehensive set-up, showing you everything from the most simple single bulb to a more complex system with bounced light used to highlight a backdrop. The shots he produced in those sessions were also stunning, particularly those which were close-up portraits of the two models used. While all three photographers tell the tales behind their most famous works, this one was an instance where it felt like you were actually seeing work of that high calibre created right in front of you.
Most Comprehensive Learnings In terms of the whole overview, the instructor who gave the most comprehensive lessons was Meyerowitz. The lessons were structured in such a way to take you through every part of the photographic process. There was learning and inspiration, planning and how to find street photography opportunities. There was the art of actually taking the pictures, in a number of differing scenarios. Then it was onwards to building up a collection of your own work, putting together books and exhibitions, and collaborating with other artists for a more interesting result. All of these areas held actionable tips that you could actually go and follow right away, which was so valuable. In terms of the number of tips given, Meyerowitz also came out on top. His advice ranged from the general about life as a
Albert Watson
photographer right through to the specific and technical, such as his own colour zone system. This meant that there was a lot to learn from every video, even those which might not have been my particular genre (such as still life). Joel Meyerowitz
Joel Meyerowitz
Most Interesting Backstory
Overall Experience
I have to say that while Watson’s tales of his first commercial job came a close second, the most interesting stories for me came from McCurry. Talking about how he would sneak into war zones with film hidden in various places about his person was really thrilling – and a good overview of what it’s really like to work in dangerous places. He even tells a story about a time when he thought he really would die, which is edge-of-your-seat stuff!
I enjoyed the experience of taking the courses as a whole. It’s very easy to move through the videos, as each one is cut down into a bitesize chunk and you can make them as complete when you are ready to move on. This way, you can return to your dashboard on any device and easily see where you left off.
It was also fascinating to learn the way one of the most famous portraits of all time – Afghan Girl – came to be. The way McCurry tells it, you can learn a lot about the specific method and way of thinking that led him to be there in the right place at the right time, and how he managed to get this stunning image out of a subject he had only just met. There’s a lesson in all of the stories that the instructors tell, with some of them spelled out for you and some of them serving as demonstrations of the right way to go about things.
There are also PDFs to download alongside each lesson, with a transcript as well as a bit of homework for you to complete. This makes it easy to put the tips you are learning into action, and is a great way to prompt yourself to keep going. It can be tricky to actually use the instruction you gain from a course when you’re just sat in front of a computer, so this push to go and try it is much appreciated. I would recommend these courses to photographers who are more established as well as those who are just starting out, as there are some higher-level tips to pick upas well as a general way of thinking or ethos to keep you moving upwards. These masters have all had very long
Find the courses at mastersof.photography
careers, and that takes tenacity as well as an ability to evolve – and their general message seems to be that anyone can become a top photographer so long as they work hard and hang onto their passion. That’s a very timely message for anyone who has been working for a while but needs that push to get moving again. The courses are available from the Masters of Photography website, through an easy-to-use dashboard. I’m a bit disappointed that I’ve finished them all now and hope that they will put out something new in the future. There are other genres yet to be covered, and plenty of living masters whose experience has yet to be tapped!
An Orginal Leroy
COLOURS OF LIFE King's College Fashion Show in support of Greenpeace
Images by Fil Mazzarino
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Ardill Larossi
December 1st 2019 marked the 11th annual show of ‘Colours of Life’ at King’s College London. ‘Colours of Life’ is the annual student-run flagship event hosted by KCL’s Public Awareness and Social Services Society. This year carried on the event’s legacy of success in a sold-out show, in support of Greenpeace UK. The show was directed and produced by Hanyan Tsien and Liliane Lee. From details right down to the goodie bags, the theme of sustainability remained consistent. Attendees were provided with vegan bepps snacks and even received complimentary biodegradable coffee cups made from wheat fibres.
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Gung Ho
Models: Adelaide De Font-Reaulx, Ambre Panhard, Andrea So, Bianca Sandu, Celeste Manenc, Gian Prem Rajaram, Grace Yeoh, Hugo Cardinali, Iago Rodriguez, Ines de Tilly, Jay Wong, Joe Ho, Louis Cheuk, Martina Milana, Mengna Jiang, Nader Di Michele, Nevin Cheung, Victoria Peresse, Zac Ali, Zoe Joy Oomens Performers: Cynthia Chiu, Kaja Riedle, Shanise Liang, Sophie Lee, Victoria O-Young Hair & Makeup: Daniela Labus, Jessie Moore, Laura Nixon, Loren Owen (head), Manisha Thapa, Susanna Sun Colours of Life Team: Christie Fok, Hilary Wong, Kara Wong, Nafisa Ehsan, Ryan Lo, Nafisa Ehsan
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Indie Bride London
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Just Harry Designs
Notch London
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Sakura London
Teens of Solidaritee
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Teens of Solidaritee
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GIRLS ARE BACK IN TOWN A special thanks to Moreno Motor Company & Labirinto Effimero di Galassi - Italy Models: Alimah Grasso @alimah_grasso; Mara Rivola @mari_rivo; Martina Morini @marty_morini89 Photographer/Retoucher: Luana Berti @luanabcandraw Makeup Artist: Martina Leoni @martina_leoni; Annamaria Missiroli @annammeri Fashion Designer for wardrobe throughout: Chiara Emme @chiaraemmeofficial
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
What’s your favourite shop in&London?
“I think LNCC. It’s such a cool shop. It’s such a weird, cool shop! I really liked it, I liked the experience. I hope they will take my clothes!” – Sarah Regensburger, Designer at The Savage
“The Cherry Moon” – Roché, Model
“Versace Sloane Street!” – Jeff, Model
“LIBERTY LONDON” – ASVIKA, DESIGNER AT ADAM AND ALICE LONDON
“Foyles. I’ve banned myself from going in there because I already have such a big to-read pile, and I can’t go in without buying something” – Rhiannon D’Averc, Chief Edito
“What a question... I’ll play safe and go for Harrods, I can always find whatever I want in there – or they can get hold of it for me
– Paul, Photographer
“TopShop” – Cindy Bolduc, Model Manager & Mother
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NEXT: THE REMODELLING ISSUE THE PARTY ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
BACK COVER:Â BACKSTAGE AT OLIVIA RUBIN BY RABI SULTAN