Issue 49: The Floral Issue

FLORAL PRINT HIDDEN MESSAGES . PONYTAILS THROUGH HISTORY . MODEST FASHION . KYOTO TRAVEL

ONES TO WATCH . FASHIONS FINEST . FASHION HONG KONG . HOUSE OF IKONS KIDS . JOHAN KU . PINES

ISSUE 49 27TH APRIL 2020

THE FLORAL ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Fil Mazzarino, Hassan Saif, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Barbara Mascarenhas, Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja Illustrators: Joe Bailey, Ben Springham Staff Writers: Maria Henry, Cicilia Brognoli, Grace Pickford Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - kavyar.com/london-runway-magazine Contributors: Lorenzo Mazzarino, Emmie Cosgrove, Kristina E. Bychkova, Emma Gandolfi, Matilde D'Errigo, Evelina Cociu, Silvia Signorile, Elena Pasini, Sophia Klebeck, Irina Marunchak, Philipp Maier, Ekaterina Mikryukova, Evgeniya Kuznetsova, Elena Nikonova, Violetta Kolesnikova, Aleksandr Akatov, Tatiana Kurnasova, Natalia, Ayano, Sandra Murray, Uliana, Anastasiia, Valeria Volubyeva, Anji Salz, Marina Ulyanova, Anastasiya Strebkova, Ari Dee, Madeeha Najeeb, Olha Kuznietsova, Anastasia Semenko-Vasuik, Tiana Mongol, Andrew Melchenko, Tata Taraniuk, Pokahontas, Dani Geddes, Vivienne Monique, Korn Taylor, Jagged Dreamland, Jared Rehal, Kayleigh-Paige Rees, and Rabi Sultan Special thanks to Aya Osman, Jiri Kalfar, and Dyelog PR

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

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CONTENTS

41

22 WORDS

VISUALS Ones to Watch, Pines, Johan Ku

8

The Language of Flowers

4

Florantine (Editorial)

22

The History of the Ponytail

19

New Faces

33

Travel Journal: Sakura Festival in Kyoto

28

Portfolio Piece

39 Interview: Aya Osman

59

Debutante (Cover Editorial)

41

Refuse Club, Yiyao Nie, Fashions Finest

51

Our Favourite Instagram Accounts 63 for Muslim Fashionistas

62

The Highest Paid Top Models of All Time

68

Style (Conscious) Guide: Flower Power

Jiri Kalfar on Sustainable Futures

77

Magic Garden (Editorial)

66 What Does the Future Hold?

93

Vivienne Monique: Pure UK International Supreme Superstar 2020 (Editorial)

71 Your Style Horoscope

104

The Lockdown Customisation Project (Editorial)

78

House of iKons

83

House of iKons

94

Fashion Hong Kong, Aadnevik, A Celebration of Canadian Design, Mitch Desunia

108

Trend Report: The Revival of Juicy 117 Couture and Early 2000s Fashion The Face of London Runway 2020 120 The Big Question

121

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l We’re onto our second lockdown issue today, with the whole London Runway team working from home and connecting remotely for meetings.

We’re lucky in that we’re able to continue producing content for you without the need for contact, at least until we start to run out of events and photoshoots from before the COVID-19 crisis began (which, we hope, will coincide with a relaxing of the lockdown rules enabling us to go out and create once more).

If you’re sitting at home without anything to do, remember that this is a time to use for positive ends. It’s a time to learn, to express yourself creatively in ways you never had time for previously, and for spending time with loved ones. Now more than ever we are reminded that something could come along at any time to take those loved ones away from us – so your homework, readers, is to finish reading this magazine and tell someone that you love them. Even if they already know it.

Of course, if you’re a model, we have an even more productive way for you to spend your time. We’re holding open digital castings for our Face of London Runway 2020 competition, so head over to our website at londonrunway.co.uk for all of the details and the entry form.

We just need you to put together a quick digital portfolio, which can be done with your smartphone camera even if you’ve never modelled before, and a short video. Together with your measurements, this will give you the chance to win a place on our cover, a full editorial shoot, and much more.

We also have another pretty big announcement, which is that we’ve started our own podcast to give you something to listen to during these uncertain times.

Called London Runway Style, it’s a guided exploration of the catwalk shows and presentations that we feature in our pages. You can listen along with the issue in-hand for the full experience!

Each episode is less than ten minutes long and you can listen on Spotify and Google Podcasts, as well as a number of other platforms (Apple Podcasts pending!).

There’s so much going on in this issue, which is full of floral delights.

Throughout the pages you will see floral illustrations by Joe Bailey, one of our regular artists, adding an impactful brushstroke here and there. Flowers are blooming across all of our editorials, and you’ll spot a floral print or two in the designers we’ve chosen to showcase here as well. This is our way of bringing you a little spring, while you can’t quite get out and enjoy it.

We’re hanging out on social media whenever you want to join us for a chat, so don’t be shy! Until next time:

Enjoy -

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS Send a Message With Your Prints

Exotic

This month, Grace Pickford explores the symbolism of floral prints.

Whether your favourite floral print is ditsy daisies on summer dresses, tropical succulents and exotic blooms, or delicate peonies on silk fabrics, every flower has its own individual language forged from the whispers of traditions, cultural origin and spiritual beliefs.

Floral designs continue to inspire fashion, interior design, and art because of their versatility, colour, and coded messages. Just as the Victorians passed secret messages between lovers through the hushed meaning of a bouquet, the floral prints on your wall or in your wardrobe speak volumes too. Now that it is spring and the flowers have come back out to play, what message are you sending with your floral prints?

“After women, flowers are the most divine creations”.

- CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Exotic flowers, large succulents and arty animals have taken centre stage this season. The Versace SS20 runway saw a stunning collection of jungle greens, fanning leaves, and dripping, embellished dresses. The finale imprinted the jungle theme into eager eyes as Jennifer Lopez displayed a flowing green floral print dress that celebrated the bare beauty of mother nature with its minimal coverage, and a waterfall created by the loose flowing fabric. Francesco Risso also made floral statements in the SS20 collection for Marni through the creation of a tropical wilderness using upcycled and organic materials.

Tropical prints are the banner for what is important in the modern world: the protection of our rainforests, slowing the impacts of climate change and respecting natural environments. Want to make a statement with your florals?

Tropical and exotic prints are the new king of the fashion jungle.

Daisies and ditsy prints Ditsy print dresses are a staple in many a summer wardrobe with the daisy often being the flower used in these smaller prints. The daisy has long been a symbol of innocence and purity with their white leaves and yellow centre.

However, this flower has also been associated with the figure of the femme fatale: a dangerous woman, innocent on the outside yet hiding a core of corruption. F Scott Fitzgerald’s character Daisy in The Great Gatsby perfectly embodies the secretive side to this devilish flower.

Vintage prints The flared trouser is back for business and double denim is no longer a cause to call the fashion police. Another ‘70s trend that has reappeared is the vintage floral pattern. Not only does this support the reusing of clothes by buying vintage, it also provides a dusty hue of colour to any room or wardrobe.

Vintage florals usually come in clashing colour sets of browns and yellows, greens and purples and are either small or oversized, earning them the title of ‘gaudy’ and proud. The late ‘60s and early ‘70s saw the rise of flower power as a symbol of non-violence, peace and love. Rocking blooming head pieces and floral prints, the style is now popular for summer festivals and bohemian-chic outfits. The vintage print can also be a more subtle and everyday look with vintage floral dresses and wallpapers in faded tones.

The daisy also holds the symbolic meaning of youth and wakefulness: in old English, the daisy refers to the “day’s eye” because the flower’s petals close around the yellow centre at night and open again during the day. If you want your print to say “I’m awake, rested and ready for the day” then kiss goodbye to the patriarchal depiction of women as either the innocent flower or witchy weed and enjoy the refreshing symbol of wakefulness this spring/summer with a light and fresh daisy print.

Mughal designs Poppies, irises, and daffodils interwoven into spiralling designs on rich red canvases, blossoming trellises embroidered and detailed onto fabrics: Mughal designs are the expression of the taste for florals in 17th century South Asian art and culture. Created during the Mughal dynasty, these floral designs are luxurious and intricate, reminiscent of their dynastic origins. Colourful, vibrant and detailed, these floral prints make beautiful designs for tapestries, dresses and interior design. Show your taste for the expensive things in life with these prints.

Peonies A flower exuding rich cultural history and the elegance of traditional Chinese art and culture, peonies speak the language of royalty and luxury. In Chinese tradition they are the flower of the kings, loved for their billowing petal formations, vibrant colour palette, and sensational scents. Depicted in cacophonies of exotic birds, mythical creatures and colourful leaves, peonies are often the symbolic fruit amongst the abundant patterns of embroidered silk designs for traditional Chinese clothing like the cheongsam. Planted in Imperial Palace gardens during the Tang dynasty, these flowers represent power and wealth as well as happiness and prosperity for their voluminous blooms and enticing colours from blushing pinks to sultry reds. This flower is symbolic of the richness and abundance of life.

Sunflowers Depending on whether the sunflower evokes images of Van Gogh or summer festivals, that might be enough to tell you what the sunflower means to you.

Roses “A rose by any other name would smell as sweet”: thanks to Shakespeare the rose has remained a symbol of romance and passion. For the Victorians, the traditional rose was the symbol for purity and innocence in young women - think Pride and Prejudice. Extremely overdone in the department of love, if the symbol of the pure, innocent woman or star-crossed lover doesn’t tickle your petals there are plenty of other symbolic meanings behind this thorny minx.

The suffragettes used a yellow rose as the symbol of their fight for the vote in the early 19th century, which transformed the flower’s meaning from jealousy and infidelity to one of unity and friendship.

The rose has also been reimagined in fashion design, being an inspiration this season for designers Richard Quinn whose SS20 collection flooded the runway with roses on voluminous jackets and dresses - and Lela Rose, whose spring collection oozed floral elegance as models graced a runway of yellow petals and displayed prints of roses big and small on white backdrops.

The sunflower is the world-wide symbol of radiance and vitality. Named for their similarities to that big old orb in the sky, sunflowers were a source of energy and nourishment as a valuable food product l.when they were first discovered in the Americas. They continue to provide nourishment in the form of eye candy in the modern day.

Still used for their seeds and oils, this flower is the true symbol of warmth, life, and, go on I’ll say it, happiness.

Dahlias Dahlias are important in different cultures and have various symbols depending on who you ask. The Victorian language of the dahlia spoke of virtue and grace and they were given as symbols of commitment. In Mexican culture, the dahlia symbolises adventure and change and they are often found in bridal bouquets for this reason. Dahlias are very popular flowers in Mexico for their long blooming season and vibrant colours. Mexican culture has a love for vibrant colour, floral extravaganza and kaleidoscopic festivities. The dahlia has been the national flower of Mexico since the ‘60s but their history is rooted in the Aztec culture where they were used for food and medicinal purposes.

Dahlias are a wild card flower as they also have underlying meanings of betrayal and warning. They are the perfect flower to symbolise the spices of South America and to express sentiments of love and all of the excitement that comes along with it.

Tulips Like the sunflower, tulips crave the sun and will acrobat their stems in order to get the best angle to reach the light.

Speaking the language of opportunity, aspiration and adjustment, these flowers are for the determined and the inspired.

They also have meanings of spiritual awareness and maintaining a sense of self and serenity. Their different colours symbolise different attributes with white symbolising forgiveness and pink representing confidence. Originating in Central Asia and becoming popular in Turkey, the tulip gained its name from the Persian word for turban as when in full-bloom the tulip takes a turban-like shape. Their unique natural shape has inspired fashion designers such as Dior and Capucci who have recreated the rounded bulb in dress form.

Cherry blossoms Sakura (to bloom) in Japanese, cherry blossoms’ flowers are considered the national flower of Japan: photographed across the country in ethereal clouds of pink and white, these flowers are one of the main reasons people visit Japan in spring. Beautiful and ephemeral, cherry blossom blooms are poignant in their metaphorical meaning of new life and renewal in the Buddhist culture. They are a wistful and beautiful reminder of the brevity of human life and effuse the values of mindfulness and calm in their floral embodiment of ‘nothing lasts forever’. When the flowers fall from their stems they are swept away and create puddles of petals on the ground.

The cherry blossom print is a reminder to appreciate the beauty around you and to live in the present.

No matter what floral print is your favourite, the flower will never be out of style. As long as spring rolls around, so will flowers in fashion. Your print speaks volumes: what will the language of your floral fancies be this spring/summer?

You can read more of Grace’s work on Twitter by following @pickford_grace.

Photographs via Pexels and Unsplash Illustrations via Canva

ONES TO WATCH Photography by Lorenzo Mazzarino Rose illustrations by Joe Bailey

Manon Planche

Saint Ego

Young N Sang

PINES

LONDON RUNWAY

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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LONDON RUNWAY

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LONDON RUNWAY

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LONDON RUNWAY

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Photography by Lorenzo Mazzarino

JOHAN KU

LONDON RUNWAY

THE HISTORY OF THE PONYTAIL

In this article Emmie Cosgrove explores the history of the beloved hair trend that always has our back on bad hair days, the ponytail.

Those of us out there with long hair know how infuriating having it in your face can be. The ponytail has always been a quick and easy solution of keeping hair out of the way. It is versatile and can be styled in multiple ways. Whether you want more of a bohemian hairstyle or a look that screams ‘I’m the boss of this company and I haven’t got time for this’, the ponytail is here for you.

With major celebrities such as Ariana Grande and Kim Kardashian West sporting the ponytail, it may be seen as a modern trend. However, the ponytail has been around for an exceptionally long time.

modern times the ponytail has a way of radiating power, yet during the Manchu conquest of China, the ponytail symbolised submission.

People were even executed if they refused to wear their hair in a ponytail. Not wearing a ponytail was a sign of disobedience and refusing to comply with new rules, which was punishable by death.

No one knows how far back the ponytail truly goes. It can be seen in works of art that date all the way back to 1600 B.C.E from Greece, Rome and Egypt. In her novel, the Encyclopaedia of Hair, Victoria Sherrow reckons that Ancient Greece is where the ponytail originated from. Both men and women can be seen in these ancient artworks with their hair tied back and was a prime hairstyle worn by many.

However, as the 17th Century rolled about the ponytail had become a staple hairstyle for the male Manchu people of Northeast China.

Many of us may view the ponytail as a simplistic hairstyle, but the male Manchu people would shave both the front and side of their heads and only grow hair on the very top of their heads. This hair would then be tied back into a ponytail and was often braided.

When the Manchu people took on their conquest of China, the ponytail was forcefully introduced to the Han Chinese men. Prior to this conquest, both Han Chinese men and women would style their hair in top knots and buns. In

If you think the ponytail is a girly hairdo, the ponytail of the 18th Century may come as a bit of a shock.The ponytail had become a compulsory hairstyle for European soldiers in France and was known as a queue. It was a hairdo fit for men only and represented both hyper masculinity and the establishment. Queues were often tied back with blue ribbons and occasionally braided.

This hyper masculine ponytail didn’t

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last too long and in the late 18th Century the ponytail went under some drastic changes. European armies bid farewell to their long locks and ponytails as it was far too high maintenance for soldiers. Those in the army were now required to cut their hair short which quickly became the norm for men, and still to this day it is incredibly common to see men with short hair. Now that soldiers had snipped most of their hair off, and the ponytail lost its masculine nature, the

LONDON RUNWAY look still didn’t quite make it as a hairstyle seen fit for women. People stopped pulling their hair up and tying it back. The ponytail had faded into the background and it took some time for it to resurface and gain its popularity back.

The 1920s saw the rise of the flapper and the flapper bob was all the rage when it came to hair. As the 20s ended and the Hollywood film industry boomed, the 30s and 40s had brought luscious Hollywood curls to centre stage. The ponytail had lost all its power. It was a schoolgirl hairstyle worn by children.

It wasn’t until the 50s that the ponytail was finally considered an appropriate hairstyle for women.

The film star Sandra Dee wore her hair in a ponytail during the classic teen romance movie Gidget. The ponytail then became a classic hairdo for the girl next door. It wasn’t cool but it was a hairstyle that was perfect for your casual everyday girl.

With the ponytail back on the big screen, each decade that followed on from the 50s brought different styling techniques and meanings to the ponytail. In the 60s French actress and model Brigitte Bardot made the ponytail a style that cool and chic women could wear too. The ponytail was now transformed from a casual girl’s hairdo into a look that was fashionable and sophisticated.

Finally, as a big fashion hair hit of the 60s, the ponytail had become a household hairstyle and saw its fair share of use during the 70s and 80s.

However, it wasn’t until the 90s that the ponytail became a powerhouse hairstyle.

With a mass following during the 80s and her music career only ever on the rise, Madonna blessed the 90s with a cone bra outfit and clip-on

high ponytail during her blonde ambition tour. Wearing this clip-in during her tour transformed the ponytail into a symbol of female empowerment. Fans were obsessed with the look and would recreate it.

Even when Madonna ditched the high pony due to it causing difficulties with headsets on tour and too much strain on her natural hair, this clip-in ponytail managed

to sell for £1200 in a 2014 auction, and fans still loved the look. The bond between girl power and the ponytail had grown strong.

In the 1999 film 10 Things I Hate About You, one of the leading protagonists, Kat, sports a ponytail throughout many scenes.

Though her character comes off as anti-social and as someone who doesn’t care about her appearance, she is also an on-screen feminist icon. She is true to who she is and fights against the standards society has set for women. She may wear her hair in a ponytail to try and look carefree and effortless when it comes to her hairstyling choices, but this look gives her a tough edge and feeds into the idea that the ponytail is a hairstyle for strong women.

Unfortunately, in the early 2000s, the ponytail went through another rough patch. Little Britain, a comedy TV show that took the UK by storm, managed to comically drain all the chic girl power out of the ponytail. The show’s character Vicky Pollard, portrayed by Matt Lucas, had turned the ponytail into a style that was fit for chavs. This led to the ponytail being dubbed ‘the Croydon Facelift’. It was now a look accompanied by tracksuits, fake tan and teenagers who spoke only in English slang.

Jokes aside, the ponytail managed to pull through in the fashion industry and was seen on catwalks and on several early 2000s celebrity red carpet looks.

By 2012 the ponytail had even scored its own scientific equation.

A group of English and American scientists joined forces, and with one researcher working at a shampoo

LONDON RUNWAY

factory, they opted to create a hairraising experiment. Known as the Rapunzel number, this equation is used to predict the shape of a ponytail on an individual's hair. Depending on hair length and curl and then the added force of gravity, you could get two completely different looking ponytails.

This equation even earned itself an IG Nobel for Physics award, an award set up for ‘spoof experiments’ just like the Rapunzel number. Despite the fact this experiment wasn’t considered a serious scientific breakthrough, it helped a number of scientists gain a stronger understanding of various materials from wool, to fur, and hair.

In the later years of the 2000s the ponytail reached its peak and was no longer a laughing stock of a hairstyle.

For her 2015 Met Gala look Beyoncé pulled off a last-minute ponytail that caused her to be late to the gala. Whilst on the way to the Met Gala, Beyoncé told her hairstylist Neal Farinah that she wanted a hair change.

Beyoncé demanded a high ponytail and Neal Farinah had only five minutes to create the look. Beyoncé rocked the high ponytail look and it looked like that ‘do had taken much longer than five minutes to create.

As the trend caught on this hairstyle became a favourite for celebrities such as J-Lo, and all the Kardashians have been seen with their hair up in a ponytail every so often. Though Ariana Grande did ditch her signature ponytail due to the pain it was causing her, this look still has over 3 million tags on Instagram and doesn’t seem to be going anywhere.

With hairstylists adding modern spins on the ponytail by incorporating pearls and chains into their styling, and more men growing their hair out, the future of the ponytail is going to be an exciting thing to experience. We’re living in a time in which people are becoming far more expressive with their fashion and hair choices, and it is interesting to see how this can be transferred to such a simple hairstyle that has been around for this long.

You can read more of Emmie’s work over on Twitter at @Ems_Pen_ Illustrations by Ben Springham Images via Wikimedia Commons and Unsplash

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Florantine

Evelina wears: Pullover - Bershka

This work represents an artistic collaboration between the photographer Kristina Bychkova and the illustrator and digital artist Elena Pasini. The concept concerns the period of quarantine that the whole world is going through and this artistic work wants to give a spark of hope to overcome it.

The choice of flowers was made on the basis of their meaning and the chromatic range.

Photographer: Kristina E. Bychkova @kristinabychkovaph Models: Emma Gandolfi @emmagandolfi; Matilde D'Errigo @nipplenape; Evelina Cociu @evelinacociu; Silvia Signorile @signorilesilvia Digital Artist/Illustrator: Elena Pasini @epaw_

Silvia wears: Necklace - Accessorize

Emma wears: Pullover - Zara

Evelina wears: Pullover - Bershka

Matilde wears: Pullover - Zara

Silvia wears: Necklace - Accessorize

LONDON RUNWAY

TRAVEL JOURNAL: SAKURA FESTIVAL IN KYOTO Fil Mazzarino shares his photographic exploration of the Sakura Festival in Kyoto, Japan.

Kyoto is the capital city of the Kyoto Prefecture in Japan. Located in the Kansai region on the island of Honshu, Kyoto was chosen as the new seat of Japan's imperial court in 794. The Emperors of Japan ruled from Kyoto until 1869, when the court relocated to Tokyo.

Kyoto is considered the cultural capital of Japan and a major tourist destination.

With more than 2,000 religious sites – 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines - as well as palaces, gardens, and architecture, it is one of the best preserved cities in Japan.

Tō-ji is a Shingon Buddhist temple in the Minami-ku ward of Kyoto, Japan.

Founded in 796, it was originally one of the only three Buddhist temples allowed in the city. The current five-storied Pagoda of Tō-ji dates from 1643. The original pagoda was built in the 9th century, but it was destroyed and rebuilt four times before the 17th century. It was designated a National Treasure in 1952. The pagoda, at 180 feet tall, is the tallest wooden tower in Japan.

Entrance into the pagoda itself is permitted only on special occasions, but the doors are usually open and the interior can be seen from the outside. It houses relics, sculptures and paintings

Cherry blossom is the flower of trees from the genus Prunus. The most wellknown species is the Japanese cherry, Prunus serrulata, which is commonly called sakura in Japan. It is known for the delicate pink petals.

Hanami festivals celebrate the beauty of the cherry blossom and for many are a chance to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, together with the people they care about.

The blossoming begins in Okinawa in January, and typically reaches Kyoto and Tokyo at the end of March or the beginning of April. It continues north, arriving in Hokkaido a few weeks later.

Japanese people pay close attention to the blossom forecasts and hold flowerviewing parties at parks, shrines, and temples with family and friends.

Kyoto is renowned for its delicious Japanese foods and cuisine. As Kyoto is landlocked and home to many Buddhist temples, a variety of vegetables were grown that could only be found here.

The covered Nishiki Market is right in the centre of town. It’s said that there were stores here as early as the 14th century.

The springtime festival brings to mind ideas of rebirth, rejuvenation, renewal, resurrection and regrowth. For centuries, the Sakura season has been celebrated in many forms across Japan.

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LONDON RUNWAY The market is one of Kyoto’s real highlights, it’s where most of Kyoto’s high-end restaurants and wealthy individuals do their food shopping.

The Katsura Imperial Villa is a palace with associated gardens and outbuildings in the western suburbs of Kyoto. It is one of Japan's most important large-scale cultural treasures.

Its gardens are considered a masterpiece of Japanese gardening, and the buildings are regarded among the greatest achievements of Japanese architecture.

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE Name: Sophia Klebeck Age: 22 Location: Munich, moving to Vienna soon Agency: Louisa Models, Fifth Models, soon Wilhelmina NY How long have you been modelling for?

1 year

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

Memorize a ton of song lyrics, even some that I've only listened to once.

What would surprise people to know about you?

I speak 4 languages :) What are your modelling ambitions?

Working in Cape Town

Where are you from originally?

Munich (Mom is Brazilian, Dad is German).

Last year Sophia won the oldest model casting competition in the world (1948) called "Die schĂśne MĂźnchnerin".

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Model: Sophia Klebeck at Louisa Models (GERMANY) and Fifth Models (SPAIN) - @sophia.s.antos Photographer: Philipp Maier @philippmaiercom

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE Name: Ekaterina Mikryukova Age: 44 years old Location: Moscow, Russia Agency: Freelance

is a place for joy, happiness and pleasure in it, and that it is possible to look good at any age and enjoy this state

How long have you been modelling for?

A little less than a year

What are your modelling ambitions?

I really want to be implemented as a commercial model in Europe and USA, where the "middle-aged model" direction is developed

Where are you from originally?

From Chelyabinsk, Russia Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I create beautiful handmade cards What would surprise people to know about you?

That middle-aged women can look amazing and show other women of this age that life is beautiful, that there

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Model: Ekaterina Mikryukova @Kat.mikryukova Photographer: Evgeniya Kuznetsova @Crocus_focus Jewelry Designer: Irina Marunchak @chocolate.jewelry Makeup Artist: Elena Nikonova @nikonova.makeup Wardrobe: Shirt - Stradivarius; Dress - model's own, H&M; Hat - New Yorker

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE Name: Violetta Kolesnikova Age: 18 years old Location: Sumy, Ukraine Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

5 years Where are you from originally?

From city of Sumy

What would surprise people to know about you?

Participated as a model in the world championship, for modelling and colouring eyebrows, in Paris. First place!

What are your modelling ambitions?

I want to be on the cover of a magazine!

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I am fond of dancing

Model: Violetta Kolesnikova @violetta_kolesnikova Photographer: Aleksandr Akatov

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Tatiana Kurnosova

LONDON RUNWAY

Tatiana Kurnosova is a fashion photographer, stylist and blogger with multiple publications, award wins, and more than 10 years working experience in fashion industry.

Tatiana loves capturing unique female beauty and admires Asian art and culture, so you may often recognize her works by seeing Tokyo streets, Japanese models and interesting composition including buildings and architectural objects.

Tatiana's photography style is a mix of sensuality and simplicity, dramatic and minimalistic.

She is an author of book called "All you need to know about model test shoots" where you will find helpful tips and advices for fashion models, fashion photographers and aspiring stylist.

Tatiana also has a YouTube channel about modeling, fashion photography and lifestyle.

portfolio piece

Links: Official website http://tatianakurnosova.com/ YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/tatianakurnosova Instagram https://www.instagram.com/tatianakurnosova/

Models: Natalia at OMG Model Management @nataliety_omg; Sandra Murray at FL Model Management @sandramurrray; Ayano at Friday Models Agency @ayano0531; Uliana at FL Model Management @uliagras; Anastasiia at One Models Agency @snchkk Wardrobe Stylists: Valeria Vorobyeva @flamingsparrow; Anji Salz @salztokyo; Marina Ulyanova @thejourne Producer: Anastasiya Strebkova @russian_in_japan Makeup Artist/Photographer/Wardrobe Stylist: Tatiana Kurnosova @tatianakurnosova

DEBUTANTE

Makeup Artist: Ari Dee - Super Hella OMG @superhellaomg Hair Stylist: Gaby Garcia @Gabrielisa Assistant: Cira DeLay Models: Crissy Kay at Smart Model Management @Crissykay_official; Emily Breunig at Patti Falconer Agency @emily.breunig Crissy wears: Top: Zara, Pants: Boohoo, Shoes: Gianvito Rossi, Bracelet: Kendra Scott

Wardrobe Stylist: LMC Style Closet @lmcstylecloset Photographer: Lacey M. Carroll @laceymc Wardrobe: Some supplied by Albright Fashion Library

Crissy wears: Top: Zara, Pants: Boohoo, Shoes: Gianvito Rossi, Bracelet: Kendra Scott

Crissy wears: Top: Alexander Wang, Skirt: Marc Jacobs, Shoes: Bally, Earrings: Noon Day

Crissy wears: Top: Rochas, Skirt: Rochas Shoes: Ted Baker, Earrings: Noon Day

Crissy wears: Top: Alexander Wang, Skirt: Marc Jacobs Shoes: Bally, Earrings: Noon Day

Crissy wears: Top: Rochas, Earrings: Noon Day

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Emily wears: Jacket: Top: Rodarte, Dion Lee, Skirt: Valentino, Shoes: Nicholas Kirkwood , Earrings: Lily & Lucy

Crissy (left) wears: Dress: Sana Sabini, Necklace: Mary Katrantzou Emily (righ) wears: Dress: Maria Lucia Hohan, Necklace: Mary Katrantzou, Earrings: Tory Burch

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Emily wears: Jacket: Dion Lee, Skirt: Valentino, Shoes: Nicholas Kirkwood , Earrings: Lily & Lucy

Emily wears: Dress: Maria Lucia Hohan, Necklace: Mary LONDON Katrantzou, Earrings: Tory Burch, Purse: Rocia

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Emily wears: Top: Victoria Beckham, Pants: Emanuel Ungaro, Earrings: Jennifer Behr

Emily wears: Top & Pant Set: Zimmermann Earrings: Mignonne Gavigan

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Emily wears: Dress - Ellie Saab; Shoe - Manolo Blahnik; Earrings - Lily & Lucy, Necklace: Mary Katrantzou

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REFUSE CLUB

Photography by Lorenzo Mazzarino - Illustrations by Joe Bailey

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YIYAO NIE

FASHION FINEST Photography by Fil Mazzarino Illustrations by Joe Bailey

LARA LAVINE

LIZZY BRANDY

MADE OF CARPET

MARIE SANSOME

INTERVIEW

This month, Rhiannon D’Averc grabbed some email time with model and neuroscientist Aya Osman for our first lockdown interview!

First, please introduce yourself to our readers.

Hey Guys! My name is Aya Osman and I am a behavioral neuroscientist and a part time fashion model! I was born and bred in London UK and now living in New York City completing my post doctoral training as well as pursuing commercial modelling!

How did you get into modelling?

I first got into modelling at the age of 17.

I was in my local hair salon getting a blow dry for an event later that day, when the salon owner told me that a close friend of hers, a Ghanaian designer, was looking for models for her new lookbook. I was totally taken aback especially as modelling really went against my Islamic background, but none-the-less curiosity got the best of me and I agreed to be connected with the designer. A week later I was on my very first photoshoot and fell in love instantly. After that I was connected to several agencies and eventually got signed and so began my modelling career.

There's an unhealthy and untrue stereotype that models are dumb.

Your work as a behavioural neuroscientist proves the opposite!

How do your two kinds of work gel together?

Haha, yes, this stereotype does unfortunately plague models. I was aware from very early on that I wanted to do more than model, this mainly stemmed from a deep belief within myself that we have zero control over how we look or our physical features.

We are simply born with a set of genes which make you look a certain way but that shouldn't be the only thing that defines you! I didn't want to be known only for my appearance.

Moreover, life is unpredictable and you never know what may happen to change your looks or whether the current market even considers your look to be beautiful.

I felt all these uncertainties around appearances meant I couldn't pin my whole life to it. I wanted to utilize other parts of me that I do have more control over! I believe our minds are our best features, I've always enjoyed reading, questioning life and investigating to find out more and learn. These character traits meant I ended up choosing a career in scientific research, with focus on the brain. Most people don't realize this but science is a very creative field and so both my modelling and scientific work channel my creative side Now I am focusing on merging the two careers and doing science communication via media, from documentary making to chat shows. I have always enjoyed teaching and sharing information or knowledge with people so what better way to do that than via media?

The modelling has helped me build up confidence in front of the camera in prep for this merging of the two careers.

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Tell us about your current research.

So, my research at the moment focuses on two different things: Firstly, I study brain development in childhood (the first two years) and how diets such as breast milk and cow’s milk effect brain development. I focus on how disruptions to this normal development in the first two years by having bad diets can result in a number of psychiatric conditions including autism.

There is currently a lot of money in autism research because of how common the condition has become and we still don’t know what causes it or how to cure it. Secondly, I also study addiction. I'm focused on understanding the underlying changes that happen to a brain once it’s addicted to a substance.

The whole aim behind this is if you understand how a brain changes to become addicted then you can figure out a way to stop and therefore cure addiction.

Have you come up against unfair stereotypes in either of your fields of work? and if so, how did you deal with them?

Yes, certainly all the time! In the science world, looks mean absolutely nothing, if anything being good-looking in science may actually count against you. If you wear lipstick or make an effort to look nice in science people automatically think "the time you spent applying that lipstick could have been used to read more scientific papers" [laughs]. So, yeah, I definitely face a stereotype in the science world where people think if you look nice it must mean you are stupid!

And I actually have to squash that misconception on a daily basis.

With age this has bothered me less and less as I am now more confident in who I am, and I believe character always speaks for itself. Since moving to the states I have actually found people here are a lot more accepting and less judgmental of my dual careers whereas when I was back in London I definitely got strange looks for being both a model and a neuroscientist.

When the modelling world hears about my science career they are a lot more accepting and less judgmental! I reckon this is because most models do something else on the side (from being dentist to lawyers to engineers). I actually think this is so awesome and needs to be portrayed more often especially for young girls growing up in a world which is so focused on only looks. so I definitely appreciate platforms like yours sharing this.

Can you name a favourite image of yours, or perhaps a favourite catwalk that you walked on?

Yes, my fav images have to be for the British Hairdressing Awards where I was turned into a blonde for a week! I loved the stylist behind the shoot and the photographer was absolutely amazing. I do love me a good catwalk! I think everyone should do one runway show in their lifetime, the adrenaline rush is simply like no other. My fav catwalk shows have to be my first NYC fashion week show, and also I walked for Africa Fashion Week on a regular basis back in London.

What's your proudest achievement to date?

Images via Aya Osman

Proudest achievement is completing my PhD. It was by far the biggest challenge of my life thus far, but since completing it I have been reaping the fruits of my labor. It’s made me realize if there is one thing that is guaranteed in life... it’s that hard work ALWAYS pays off.

Do you have any big ambitions or dreams that you'd like to achieve, either in neuroscience or in modelling?

Yes! I'm working towards becoming a public science figure. That to me would show that I successfully merged the two careers.

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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc

Graphic logo t-shirt in black Adidas £22.00 English Rose Studs Collectif £5.00

Natalie - Floral Embellished Flutter Sleeve Midi Dress Sarvin £340.00

Co-ord regular fit floral shirt in purple Asos Design £22.00 Rose Socks Dr. Martens £8.00

Shopper in tropical print ASOS Design £8.00

Co-ord slim shorter shorts in floral print ASOS Design £22.00

1460 SkullL Leather Ankle Boots Dr. Martens £149.00

Flora Bootie In Floral Print Susana Madrid £350.00

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OUR FAVOURITE INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS FOR MUSLIM FASHIONISTAS This week, Madeeha Najeeb explores the world of fashion, beyond religion.

The hijabi blogosphere has been exploding recently, and for all the right reasons I must add. A few years ago, there was much less representation of Muslim women in the beauty and fashion world. Now, these women are not only challenging the hijabi stereotype, but also the cultural stereotypes. Whether it is with makeup, skincare tutorials, or product reviews and hauls, hijabi beauty influencers are smashing the negativity commonly associated with Islamic dress codes, and through their creative content, they are inspiring change.

It is all about the mantra: ‘do not look at what is on top of my head, look at what is inside my head’. Despite hate speech, negative publicity, and even xenophobia, the hijabis are taking the world by a storm. Brands like Nike are also joining the bandwagon by launching a hijab for athletes and even a burkini now. Max Mara, Yeezy, and Ferretti have started using hijabi models in their campaigns.

Muslim women are reigning on various online platforms such as Instagram, Youtube, and Snapchat. A massive diversity of hijabi online bloggers and influencers can be seen wherever you look. These women are doing just fine, and they’re rocking our timelines in the process.

Here are some of our favourite Instagram accounts that you should start following in a heartbeat!

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1. @MARIAHIDISSI Mariah Idrissi is a British model, public speaker, and influencer. Idrissi gained recognition as the first Muslim hijabi model through Rose’s talent agency Road Casting Kids, appearing in multinational retailer H&M's "Close the Loop" campaign in 2015; after which, Idrissi became a modest fashion pioneer, appearing on domestic and international news all over the world. In 2016, she started working with the Select modelling agency and signed to Insanity Group Management in 2017.

In May 2016, Idrissi became part of the first Istanbul Modest Fashion Week held in Turkey as a modest influencer. In November of 2016, Idrissi was featured in contemporary modest fashion retailer Aab's winter season collection.

Idrissi has also been featured on a Fenty Beauty campaign, the cosmetics line by Rihanna.

2. @SEBINAAH Sebinaah Hussain is a law graduate turned beauty and fashion blogger.

Being one of the UK's top and widely recognised Muslim influencers, she uses her platform to help women feel confident and dress up on trend without compromising on religious values.

Sebinaah has also scored some major brand deals recently, including huge names like H&M and Giorgio Armani Si. She has collaborated with many major brands like NYX, BECCA Cosmetics, NARS, Jo Malone, Huda Beauty, and Charlotte Tillbury, to name a few.

In her own words, “I think it’s important to show the women out there, Muslim or not, that you don’t have to be a fashion graduate or designer to be stylish. It doesn’t matter what job you do, you should always aim to look your best when you do it.”

3. @ESLIMAH

In May 2016, Sebinaah also became a part of the first Istanbul Modest Fashion Week held in Turkey as a modest influencer. She has worked on numerous occasions with the biggest Turkish modest fashion brand, Modanisa. She is a proud mother of two young boys.

Eileen Lahi is an Estonian modest fashion blogger who reverted to Islam about eight years ago. She is 28 years of age and is currently settled in Doha, Qatar.In her own words, Eslimah explains how she embraced Islam and her reflects on the decision to become a Muslim.

"

I was raised an atheist, in a country of 1.3 million people, of which Muslims make up merely 0.14%. No mosque. No halal food. And close to zero tolerance towards the religion. However, somehow, by God’s mercy, I found him.

For some reason, out of the billions who are wandering blindly, he chose me.

Somehow, on the day I said my Shahada, May 14th 2011, we were 12. 12 of us declared ‘Laa ilaaha illa Allah’ one by one, one after the other. And each and every single life changed.

"

She is an epitome of fashion beyond religion. She has worked with numerous businesses and is expecting her first baby soon. The businesses she has worked with include the Banana Island Resort, Grand Hyatt, Turkish Airlines, Breitling, Happy Stamp Travel, Raffles Istanbul, and many more hospitality firms.

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4. @FEEEEYA Dubai-based rising star Saufeeya Goodson is proving that modest fashion is rapidly on the rise in the public eye.

This part-American, part-Moroccan blogger has her signature piece– a selection of sunglasses, on her face almost every time you spot this beauty.

She has been featured in many magazines as a model.

In her words: "I missed Dubai while I was in the States – the culture, the lifestyle, the diversity, the people... it’s very modern over here and the creative industry is really growing. Plus it feels like home. North Carolina is more like countryside. My friend referred to me the other day as a third-culture kid because I’m American and Moroccan, but Dubai is my in-between and home to me.”

5. @HUNAINARASOOL This girl is single-handledly putting Pakistan on the fashion blogging map.

To be honest there are many other names that have blown up recently, but this girl is one of the pioneers and has been working with a variety of major brands. They include Huda Beauty, Always, Color Studio Pro, and NARS, among others.

She is a makeup artist. She also works with many major Pakistani clothing brands, like Sapphire, Alkaram, and Junaid Jamshed. She is the face of the Modest Abayas brand on Instagram.

She has also worked with Foodpanda, Karachi Eats, Shangrila Sauces, Cocomo, and many other hospitality brands.

You can read more of Madeeha's work on Twitter by following @crazymommyof2, and by following her personal blog on instagram @dia_caxi

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Magic Garden

Photographer: Olha Kuznietsova @kuznietsovailha Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Anastasia Semenko-Vasuik Model/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Tiana Mongol Models: Andrew Melchenko, Tata Taraniuk, Pokahontas

THE HIGHEST PAID TOP MODELS OF ALL TIME This month, Cicilia Brognoli looks into the ranking of the highest paid top models.

Being a model seems just a matter of good-looking presence, healthy celery shakes, and regular exercise.

However, being one of the highestpaid supermodels of all time goes well beyond that. Awakenings at dawn, long journeys, and the constant gaze of thousands of people are just what characterise top models’ lives, and it is easy to let go if you are not extremely determined.

If there was a Walk of Fame for models, it would surely feature the famous Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, and many other renowned catwalk goddesses. All these models have transformed the essence of this profession. They are no longer just wonderful bodies wrapped in the new mastery of the most renowned designers, but they are real worldly celebrities with millions of followers and virtual flatterers. If in the '90s Gianni Versace celebrated the beauty, and above all the personality, of his then novice muses, now the web idolises young and charming girls who have conquered the hearts of stylists and fans.

In the ’90s Linda Evangelista stated, “I don’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day". This claim was reported by many tabloids, spreading all around the globe in zero time. The implications of this statement were undeniable, but they paved the way for a new era, the supermodel era.

Entrepreneurship, talent, and bold personality characterised the success of the “Big Five”, the world-famous

Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Claudia Schiffer. These models dominated the ‘90s fashion scene, flawlessly posing for hundreds of magazine covers. Their photogenic looks, however incredible, struggled to keep up with their always magnetic personality. Although some of the Big Five are still out and about in the fashion scene, in general, they left the scene to the new generation of models, the so-called Instagirls.

personality.

These charming muses are entrepreneurs in all respects, capable of grasping the best opportunities in the world of fashion, exploiting their fame to defend and promote their ideals. It is certainly not their social and environmental commitment that makes them famous, but certainly, their altruism says much about their

Among the highest-paid muses of all time, there are certainly some wellknown faces of the Big Five. Naomi Campbell has £47.9 million worth of assets, while Linda Evangelista's thoughtful awakenings brought her a fortune of about £31.9 million.

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A busy life marked by endless castings and hairstyled between an interview and a green shake can lead to really extraordinary earnings.

Recently many young models populate the web as much as the catwalks. These Instagirls are the icons of many young people who increasingly idolise these style icons through a continuous spread of Instagram likes.

With no doubts, the most remunerated

model is the Brazilian Gisele Bündchen whose net worth has skyrocket to £380 million. This amount makes her the uppermost paid model of all time. Her unique charm and slender figure have always helped her in becoming the most appreciated model for both magazines and runway shows. In her teens, Gisele aspired to be a professional volleyball player, and at the age of 13 she was discovered by an agent in a fast food restaurant in São Paolo.During her career, Gisele Bündchen was a Victoria’s Secret angel from 2000 until mid-2007. She revealed that her contract with the famous lingerie brand made up almost 80% of her annual income.

She was for 15 years in a row the most profitable model. Besides her modelling career, she is a vivid supporter of praiseworthy causes regularly shared on her Instagram page.

The latest Forbes ranking of highestpaid models is the 2018 one and still features Gisele Bündchen with her 2018 income of £7.9 million. However, she is now surpassed by other Victoria’sSecret Angels and younger ladies who climbed the road of success in a blink of an eye.

Doutzen Kroes - yearly earning £6.3m This Dutch supermodel owns a lucrative L’Oréal endorsement and she recently launched her cashmere jumper line. She is one of the big names of the contemporary fashion scene and she uses her notoriety to share her commitment to helping endangered species. Indeed, in 2018 she took part in Tiffany & Co’s Save the Wild campaign together with Naomi Campbell. This iconicVictoria’s Secret Angel is particularly fascinated by elephants.

Joan Smalls - yearly earning £6.7m Joan is a Puerto Rican top model with a degree in psychology. Back in 2007 she decided to take her first steps in the fashion industry, moving to New York.

Her magnetic gaze and her sensual stride defined her as the Catwalk Queen. In 2018 the many shows she took part in and the contracts with Estée Lauder and Moschino assured her a spot in the moneymaking model ranking

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Bella Hadid - yearly earning £6.7m and Gigi Hadid - yearly earning £7.5m The Hadid sisters are now the icons of many teenagers. Although their career started just a few years ago they have already stolen the hearts of many designers, and Donatella Versace is for sure one of them. In 2018 Bella achieved her biggest success so far, she featured in the Victoria’s Secret annual fashion show and she shared her accomplished with her 18.6 million Instagram followers. Gigi’s passion for fashion is not only linked to modelling, as she created different collections beside Tommy Hilfiger. Her established name in the fashion scene brought her to be one of the faces of the annual special H&M collection, in 2018 the H&M x Moschino.

Cara Delevingne - yearly earning £7.9m Cara began her career in fashion at the age of 17 and within a few years, she walked the most prestigious catwalks.

One of her first big jobs was a campaign for Burberry. The talented Brit has always shown a strong interest in acting. She took a short break from fashion dedicating herself to her acting career.

Cara Delevingne became one of the most sought-after models becoming the favourite of Christopher Bailey, Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, and Karl Lagerfeld. The model's favourite animal is the lion, and one of the many awarenessraising activities in which she took part is the fight against the hunting of lions.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley - yearly earning £9.1m Rosie is another UK-made beauty with a passion for acting. Like her compatriot Cara, Rosie alternated her modelling career with acting in various films.

She took part in many luxury brands catwalks, as well as being the face of many campaigns for commercial brands.

From 2006 to 2010 she took part in the annual Victoria's Secret fashion show, becoming an angel in 2010.

In 2015 she was named the most beautiful woman in the world by People magazine.

Kendall Jenner - yearly income £17.8m

Chrissy Teigen - yearly earning £9.1m

Karlie Kloss - yearly income £10.3m

Chrissy is an American model, TV personality, and author. She made her modelling debut in 2010 taking part in the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue.

Karlie Kloss started her modelling career at the age of 14 by posing for the cover and editorial of Scene Magazine in Chicago, her hometown. In 2008 she started to model in the Big Four Fashion Weeks. Since then her career has taken off making her the face of advertisements for Yves Saint Laurent, Elie Saab, Dolce & Gabbana, and many other well-known brands. Like many other top-ranked models she has walked for Victoria's Secret. Karlie is passionate about computer programming. In 2015 she set up a scholarship in her name in collaboration with a New York school.

Karlie's goal is to allow young girls to thoroughly develop their passion for computer science and software engineering.

Chrissy has appeared in editorials of well-known magazines and some music videos. Her husband John Legend dedicated the song 'All of Me' to her and she participated in the music video.

Her activism is mainly political and in defence ofthe family and migrant rights.

You can read more of Cicilia’s work on ciciliabrognoli.weebly.com. All images via respective models' Instagrams

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Kendall Jenner tops the list, her notoriety began with participation in the reality show Keeping Up with the Kardashians. Her career in fashion immediately began with bookings for major brands such as Givenchy, Chanel, and Fendi. In 2018 she secured a place in Victoria's Secret fashion show, thus making one of her dreams come true.

Kendall is a true celebrity of social media. She is one of the main social influencers with 126 million Instagram followers and an average of 5 million likes per photo.

Being a model in the digital age is not just parading wearing the most stylish clothes or posing for flamboyant advertising campaigns. As already stated by the Big Five in the ’90s, top models aren't just slender and attractive bodies, they are young entrepreneurs with strong charisma. Now more than ever the top models are constantly followed by their online amateurs, and many of them expertly leverage their celebrity to perpetrate noble humanitarian and environmental causes.

Photographer/Makeup artist: Dani Geddes @danigeddes Fashion Designer: Korn Taylor @korn_taylor Model: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique

Vivienne Monique, age 7, from London, UK won the title of Little Miss Supreme Superstar 2020 at the PURE UK International Pageant held last 25-26 January 2020 at the Daresbury Hotel in Warrington, United Kingdom.

Vivienne Monique also won the Super Model and Best in Long Gown awards during the pageant. She has been invited by the Pageant directors at their upcoming fashion shows at the New York Fashion Week this coming September 2020.

VIVIENNE MONIQUE: PURE UK International Supreme Superstar 2020

JIRI KALFAR ON SUSTAINABLE FUTURES

We caught a quick word with designer Jiri Kalfar, a follow-up to our LFW interview (Issue 47). Here's his thoughts on a few key ideas coming out this new season.

On the BFC's decision to combine menswear and womenswear for the next year of fashion weeks, and to go digital: "I think it is great! I am not going to lie, I will miss watching the shows and the atmosphere, same as I miss going to theatres or galleries. There is nothing like it but it is important to adjust and move on. And I think it is a great chance to inform on sustainability, small and local brands who often get a bit overlooked by the industry".

On turning to more sustainable practices: "So far our model was very much a hybrid model of sustainability. Since the very beginning I believed that fashion should not be harming the planet or animals. I have tried to be as sustainable as possible within the “demands” of the industry - such as the fashion week schedules, the

timeline for putting the collections for sale, PR, and so on. That being said, all our clothes are made inhouse. We don't use external factories and due to our zero-waste policy, we do not sell clothes on a wholesale basis. We upcycle samples and fabrics from previous collections and use bio-degradable or organic materials such as kapok, ahimsa peace silk and others, where possible. That goes for 70% for the whole collection. With fashion being so demanding and time pressuring, we have cooperated with local fabric manufacturers and we are supplying the rest of fabric from them which aren’t organically certified. We have made sure that even though the fabric might not be sustainable, it was made locally and had minimal impact, when we dyed or printed.

and focusing on quality rather than quantity. The real tragedy would be if we are unable to learn from this situation and change our ways in many ways, how we produce, how we shop and what we produce. To step back before we step forward. It is important not to rush.

As the whole world currently “stopped”, and fashion with it, I think it is so important to take this time as a possibility for a few deep breaths. As a sign and request to change the way the industry works

On sourcing and verifying sustainable material: "I don't think there ever was a lack of fabric, as a matter of fact, I think we over-produced constantly previous years so I do not find that our

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Since the situation actually didn’t have much impact on our production, as we make all orders and items in-house and source locally, it gave me the much needed time and push to be able to work on a fully sustainable collection.

All our materials such as silk garments will be from now on made from organic and peace silk, vintage lace, and so on. I am now ready to make a fully sustainable collection based on zerowaste, organic materials, recycled fabrics and up-cycled pieces in combination with local sourcing and in-house ethical production."

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suppliers would have the problem of not having enough fabric stocked. Even though the manufacturer temporarily stopped production. That being said, I do try to use as much local suppliers and manufacturers as possible.

In our collections we do use the ahimsa peace silk which we import from India (since it is not possible to make that in our climate) but yet again I did not find the problem as of now as there would not be enough material.

Maybe it is because there simply was not such a great demand for sustainable, organic or vegan fabrics as there was for "fast fashion" fabrics. Since for example making a peace ahimsa silk is indeed much longer than the less humane and organic version of silk, I understand fast fashion and mass production companies would not be interested in it. Therefore, no shortage. And since we print, embroider or dye in-house, we are used to using the basic form of fabric.

And if there would be a shortage of

some, it will be interesting to simply learn and to work with other sustainable materials which are available. I look at it as a challenge. Since we do not have wholesale, we make all items made-to-order directly to the customer, and I organise our ecommerce site and inventory, I can take a product offline any time there would be a shortage or we would need to make a new fabric.The only thing which is a little restricting for me in a matter of sourcing is finding vintage materials which I was getting at markets."

Images by Zoe Lower, backstage at Jiri Kalfar's A/W20 show.

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Looking for a fun project to do during the lockdown? Our Chief Editor found some old sunglasses in a drawer, pulled out a bunch of craft materials, and got stuck in with some superglue alongside her fiance. This is a family activity that is a whole lot of fun, perfect for those lockdown days when you just can't think of anything to do.

The

Lockdown customisation PROJECT

Photography: Rhiannon D'Averc

Sunglasses: Jagged Dreamland x Jared Rehal

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HOUSE of iKONS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

iKonic Kidz

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HOUSE of iKONS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

KK Clothing

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Korn Taylor

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HOUSE of iKONS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

Love Collection by Emily and Anna

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HOUSE of iKONS Models Wardrobe Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

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WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD? The question on everybody's lips...

Kayleigh-Paige Rees, an actress, model, and producer, looks at what the future holds for the high street, fast fashion, and independent stores.

In this unprecedented time, we are all trying to navigate how to handle our new daily routine and how to stay safe and indoors to protect our family and friends. With all of this on our minds, it’s worrying to think what life will look like in the future.

According to the figures disclosed by the Centre for Retail Research, we will see over 20,000 stores close due to Covid-19 at the end of this year, a massive leap from the 4,547 that closed in 2019. The retail sector itself had sales of £348 million last year and employs 3.5 million people in the UK. Retail is the largest employment sector in the UK and was already in upheaval. This will further challenge everyone more so than ever.

There is a need for brands and landlords to work together to alleviate the impact of Coronavirus on the industry. Unfortunately, now landlords are holding up rent agreements because they are already committed. However, the decline in sales will mean that retailers are likely to need changes and reductions from landlords – and some brands have already begun to close because they aren’t getting them.

In the last couple of weeks, we have seen the unfortunate closure of Laura Ashley, as well as huge retail giants Oasis and Warehouse who announced they were up for sale just after lockdown was asserted by Prime Minister Boris Johnson. In a statement, the retailer said: “The Covid-19 outbreak has had an immediate and significant impact on trading, and ongoing developments indicate that this will be a sustained national situation”.

Although this was just after the closure announcements, more firms have announced that they are

in trouble as the lockdown has continued – and with reports that it may last for the rest of the year in some form, more will surely follow.

Primark owners Associated British Foods have announced that it is said to lose £650 million just from the first three weeks. Primark is dissimilar from stores such as Zara and H&M because it does not have an online presence. This will lead to a huge loss for Primark, and although other high street stores have online shopping, their supply chains from oversees have been halted, which leads to a huge delay in sales and supplies.

As well as the retail stores themselves, another huge problem is their supply chains. Due to this, it seems that fast fashion is the area which is going to be affected the most out of Covid-19.

A lot of key fashions brands have already shifted their supply from China to India and Turkey; however, this will lead to delays and low supplies on stock. A good number of brands have had to move their Fall/Winter collection back or cancel it entirely due to factory closures in China.

When it comes to the luxury sector, their reliance on the Chinese middle class as their consumer will

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lead to shortfalls in sales.

However, fast fashion is highly problematic in itself, and this could mean good news for local, independent shops who are not part of the global supply chain and not dependent on sales from foreign destinations.

Additionally, the second-hand market will also benefit from the global supply issues with many more people using charity shops and making second-hand purchases from the likes of Depop, Ebay and local apps. Larger brands could now work closer with independent stores and this could advance both. The ‘Brands at Topshop’ concept in the Oxford Street store is a working example of this.

Fast fashion will have taken a huge hit in terms of supply and high street stores. However, independent shops and suppliers could be a solution to plugging the gap in supply whilst also helping to raise up less established brands and stores.

You can find more of KayleighPaige via her Instagram @kayleigh_px. Image above by Rhiannon D'Averc. Models: Shelby Howard and Jordan Walfall Jr

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HOUSE of iKONS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

Princess Ford

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Royalty Couture Fashion

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Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

Siblingz Fashion

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HOUSE of iKONS

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

Triple D

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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice brings you decorative floral scarves perfect for both spring and summer for that extra bit of sophistication for the warming days.

Aries March 21 - April 20 Sandilou’s Watercolor Neck Scarf patterned with spring buds mimics the unique characteristics of an Aries: one of a kind and statement-making.

Taurus April 21 - May 21 Thought’s Lyme Bamboo Printed Sarong Scarf is versatile and practical for the multi-faceted Taurus, not to mention stylish!

Gemini May 22- June 21 BVLGARI’s B Fly Tie-Me Shelley Silk Scarf in this vibrant coral mimics the playful and positive nature of Geminis, especially when thriving in the warming sun.

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Cancer June 22- July 22 Alexander McQueen’s Endangered Flower Cotton Pareo Scarf is ethical and elegant.

The whimsical print raises awareness while complementing any spring or summer attire a Cancer might don..

Leo July 23- August 21 Leos will swoon over Aspinal of London’s Ombré 'A' Floral Silk Scarf. Bold and classy, there can be no better pairing.

Virgo August 22- September 23 Maje’s Silk Jardin Scarf is perfectly suited for the title with a print that reflects a summer garden. Representatives of hard work and patience, Virgos and summer gardens go hand in hand..

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Libra September 24- October 23 Anchal’s Kantha Square Scarf in beautiful ivory with pastel purple and blue florals will flow with any ensemble worn by the delicate and sensitive Libra.

Scorpio October 24- November 22 Florals might not be the first pattern of choice for this usually all-black attire sign, but this Maiken Print Tencel Scarf in Frost Grey with added tassels strikes the perfect balance!

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Christina Lacroix’s Ocean Blooms Floral Silk Scarf has an array of colours and foliage. The vibrant oceanic motifs have a lively spirit that reflects the adventurous Sagittarius.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Lily and Lionel’s Confetti Silk Necktie will stylishly play up any Capricorn’s outfit while still being no fuss.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 The Dallia Floral’s varying patterns and effortless aesthetics by Beaulah London pairs well with a classic tea dress or just a plain tee and jeans. For the easy-going Aquarius, it’s the perfect addition.

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Etro’s Raji Cashmere and Silk-Blend Scarf has an amalgamation of all things floral, elegance and nature. The scarf and patchwork design reflects the characteristics of Pisceans as the last sign of the Zodiac.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Horoscope illustrations by Lauren Roelwy Images via their respective retailers

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Photography by Rabi Sultan

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AADNEVIK Photography by Rabi Sultan

Photography by Rabi Sultan

AÂ Celebration of Canadian Design

SLOVAK FASHION COUNCIL Photography by Rabi Sultan

MITCH DESUNIA Photography by Dani Geddes. Wardrobe styling by Ninah Aguila and Elle Lagas

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TREND REPORT: THE REVIVAL OF JUICY COUTURE AND EARLY 2000S FASHION This issue, Maria Henry explores the comeback of the iconic 2000s fashion brand Juicy Couture and the revival of early 2000s trends.

If you’re into social media platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, it’s likely that you will have seen a new (or should I say, ‘old’) trend emerging. This trend consists of low-rise jeans, bandana tops, tracksuits and tiny bags — it is the revival of early 2000s fashion.

Not long ago, we saw the return of 90s fashion with plaid shirts, chokers, mom jeans and a good pair of Doc Martens becoming amongst the most-desired items. Now, are we are seeing the return of a period of fashion previously looked down upon for its ‘adventurous’ trashychic demeanour. People are bringing back the early 2000s and making it their own, incorporating elements of it into their modern wardrobes.

Recently, we have begun to see a number of celebrities posting #throwback posts in their iconic 2000s looks, perhaps most notably the queen of the early 2000s herself Paris Hilton showcasing an image of herself from the 2003 ‘Joey and T’ runway show.

In it, she wears a tiny bandeau top with the brand's logo plastered all over it (in true 2000s style) and a short, shiny mini skirt coupled with a metallic pink clutch. Of course, the look is completed with a lot of oversized bling and stiletto heels.

Paris also began to re-collaborate with Juicy Couture, a brand which

she had endorsed and promoted in the early 2000s.

Juicy Couture is the perfect example of a 2000s brand making a comeback.

Juicy actually emerged in the 1990s.

Started by Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor, the LA-based brand originally sold maternity trousers — with the aim of making a fashionable product for pregnant women. In 1994 they began to leave the maternity sector and explore the wider market. They launched

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their first product under the name Juicy Couture in 1996. It was a plain V neck t-shirt that aimed to compliment every woman’s figure, in a way that male designers only dressing high fashion models may not consider.

The iconic ‘Juicy’ tracksuit would be released shortly after with the same aim — to compliment the figure, whilst remaining comfortable and fashionable. The two played with the idea of what can be considered high

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fashion, taking things such as velour tracksuits which would usually not be considered as such and branding them ‘couture’. This became a major selling point for the brand, who priced their original tracksuits at $155, making them expensive but not inaccessible to the everyday consumer — they promised people a slice of luxury that may have otherwise seemed distant and out of reach. A large portion of their success came from this — they were in touch with the wants of the consumer.

slice of couture. A major breakthrough for the brand came in 2001, when Madonna was seen wearing a custom Juicy tracksuit, this rocketing the brand into the public eye and making velour a major fashion must-have.

Unfortunately, as the recession hit, so did interest in Juicy’s products.

People were buying less and buying cheaper. As we entered the 2010s there was simply less demand for brands such as Juicy who refused to

As the golden age of celebrity culture began in the early 2000s, tabloids were constantly reposting what celebrities were doing and wearing.

This became another ideal opportunity to elevate the brand, as celebrities such as Paris, Lindsey Lohan, Britney Spears, and J.Lo were seen in the clothes, once again showing off the tracksuits as luxury goods and making them more desirable to the everyday woman.

The brand played into this, sending gifts to people (who would now be labelled ‘influencers’) in the hopes they would be paparazzied wearing them. The tracksuits and bags had the brand’s name and logo plastered across them which made them easy to identify, and people loved this opportunity to show off their little

change their style with the times. As such Juicy changed hands multiple times and its clothing became much less readily available and generally out of favour. This remained the case until 2018 when Juicy returned with its first-ever runway show at New York Fashion Week.

In 2019 it was announced that Juicy would be releasing a collection with Urban Outfitters, bringing its original styles to a younger modern audience. The new collection takes elements of the original tracksuits but updates them to the current trends. The branding is smaller, but still present. The tracksuits come with updated features, including hoodies with rhinestone pulls and velour shorts imprinted with the iconic JC logo. A range of bandeau tops were also released, some with the classic rhinestone ‘Juicy’ imprinted across the front and some with a smaller ‘Juicy Couture’ embroidered on them. Overall the brand created a more versatile range, allowing people to choose from a variety of shorts, joggers, bandeaus, t-shirts and hoodies to create a look that they liked, or rather an element they want to work with.

Juicy isn't the only example of this 2000s revival. Brands such as Miss

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Sixty, Von Dutch and Fila have also begun to make a massive comeback, whilst resale sites such as Depop have had continued successes selling authentic vintage 2000s pieces.

This current trend is a further example of how people are always looking to the past for inspiration.

When it comes to fashion people are able to adapt, re-create and alter old trends into new ones. They are able to cultivate their style by incorporating parts of the past but making them seem fresh and new.

This is in many ways the beauty of trends, as there is always something to be inspired by in both the past and the present — something to bring inspiration and something to make your own.

If you enjoyed this article you can read more by following @mariawriteshere on twitter.

All images via Wikimedia and Instagram

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If you’ve been following us for a while, you’ll know that last year, we ran our first Face of London Runway competition. Following an open casting day, a tester photoshoot session, and then a public vote for our top ten selections, we crowned our inaugural Face of winners for the menswear and womenswear categories.

This year, we’re back to find our next faces for the twelve months ahead. The winners get to enjoy a photoshoot with their face on the cover of the magazine, help with walking in runway shows, and the chance to be put forward to agencies for consideration. Not only that, but we feature all of our runners-up in the pages of the magazine throughout the year and beyond!

If you think that you’ve got what it takes, then make sure you stay informed.

You can sign up to our newsletter on our website, where you’ll get updates about all of our open opportunities.

You can also follow us on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook – we’re @londonrunwaymag on all of them.

Today, we hoped that we’d be able to announce an open casting date for the first round of selections. As things stand, we’re not able to do so just yet – with everyone on lockdown, particularly in London, it’s not easy to get a casting together. In order to get around this, we’ve thought up a brand new format for this year only, in which the first round will be a virtual call for entries.

We are throwing the doors wide open this time around, so absolutely anyone can enter – no matter your age (so long as you are over 18), height, weight, skin colour, religious background, nationality, disability, gender

We’ll be asking you to submit the following: A headshot and full-body shot. If you don’t have these, get someone to take them for you on their phone – or stand in front of a mirror and do a selfie. No makeup, plain hair, and wear simple, tight-fitting clothing (we will make an exception for those who wish to model modest fashion due to their religious beliefs) A short video in which you say the following: “Hi, London Runway. My name is ______ and I’m going to be the new Face of London Runway 2020!” (again, filming it on just a phone is fine!)

A filled-out form listing your name, physical measurements, contact details, and other information that we’ll need in order to consider you

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identity – you get the picture!

We will have two categories open for entry: menswear and womenswear.

You can enter whichever category feels right to you, or even enter both if you wish.

After making our first round of selections, we’ll go ahead with an inperson session to whittle it down to just ten of you as normal. As it stands, we aren’t sure when that will be, but we’ll be going ahead as soon as is possible to make sure we can crown our winners without too much of a wait.

If you want to get stuck in, you can find the entry forms and all of the information that you need to know on our website. Head to LondonRunway.co.uk and click on the front-page header directing you to the Face of 2020 Call For Entries.

We can’t wait to see what you’ve got to show us!

FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2020 CONTEST

Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO STAY SANE DURING LOCKDOWN?

&

"Working out, eating well and staying connected with loved ones!"

- Aya Osman, model and behavioural neuroscientist

"My bed and my dog" - Kay-Jay, model

“ WORK �

- Samanta Bullock, wheelchair model, tennis player, and brand owner

"Meditation and exercise"

"Creating content and finding new ways to love my body"

- Kaisa, plus size model

"HORSES"

-Lina Hallberg, makeup artist

Divya Ram, model

"Creating content & serving others with live meditations, creative & confidence virtual meetups and quarantine style tips. Plus sleeping more, moving my body with kindness and eating good nutritious meals!"

"Writing every day, setting aside time for mindful creativity like my bullet journal, and reading fantasy YA novels for escapism" - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

- Lou Stokes, Style Consultant & Confidence Coach

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

NEXT: THE BRIDAL ISSUE THE SPRING ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

BACK COVER: MARIE SANSOME DURING LFW BY FIL MAZZARINO