ADVICE FOR GRADUATES . CHOOSING A DEGREE . LFW REACTION . BLACK LIVES MATTER . QUEER FASHION
PURE LONDON . MALAN BRETON . XANDER ZHOU . LONDON HAT EXHIBITION . HOUSE OF IKONS
ISSUE 51 27TH JUNE 2020
THE GRADUATE ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Maria Henry, Cicilia Brognoli, Grace Pickford Staff Illustrator: Ben Springham Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk for text / kavyar.com/london-runway-magazine for images Contributors: Aaliah Taylor, Joe Bailey, Malan Breton via DNA Block, Zander Xhou, British Fashion Council, Bjorn Svenson, Magdalena Borowicz, Agnes Lumiere, Ewa Piekut, Marta Malecka, Sierra Barton, Grace Petovello, Thyra Shane Moore, Christoph Marti, Natalie Spivak, Elena Sidak, Royal Beauty House, Yasir Arafat Malik, Lanya Boutique, Martina Potenza, Rosanna Spolsino, Marika Conte, Emanuela Potenza, Giada Cibelli, Evelina Cociu, Mariia Konkova, Anyta Maslova, Dmitry Manushin, Amber Voge, Rabi Sultan, Darcey Sergison, Velina Petkova, Cara Balen, Caroline Styan, Spasibo Shop, Anna Babaeva, Nikita Ruma, Polina Gulenko, Irina Sukretnaya, Ekaterina Kozlova, Veronika Gergert, Angelika Maralova, Anna Mix Dress, Pauline Gavrilnko, Monika Plusa, Alan Krasuski, Diana Moroz, Basia Niezbecka, Agnieszka Szataniak, Martyna Kiejno, Mark Gunter, Nadi Yashkova, Stasia
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
© 2020, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
31 VISUALS
26 WORDS
London Hat Exhibition; Malan Brton's Virtual Collection 'Immortal'; Xander Zhou Virtual
7
Contemporary Values (Editorial)
26
Sierra (Cover Editorial)
31
New Faces
39
Portfolio Piece
43
Saturday Walk (Editorial)
45
Star Child Class of 2020 (Editorial)
53
The Mystical, the Sentimental, and 86 the Spiritual
Charity Fashion Show in Aid of Mind, Pure London Trends Catwalk
55
A (Brief) Queer History of Fashion 99
Style (Conscious) Guide: Stay Home 75 Comfort Back To (Editorial)
79
Chestnut Look (Editorial)
82
Subtle and Dangerous (Editorial)
89
House of iKons
102
One Red Scarf (Editorial)
108
Profit or Passion: How Should You 4 Choose Your Degree? LFW Reaction: A Volley of Firsts
23
The Revival of Prints
36
How to Support Black Lives Matter 72 as a Non-Black Ally 2020: The Year to Make a Difference
76
Your Style Horoscope
104
The Big Question
117
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l What a month this June has been! There’s so much going on that I barely know where to start. No, I do know where to start: by talking about representation and equality. The Black Lives Matter movement has blown up on a scale not yet seen before, and companies from all over the scale have been quick to jump on the bandwagon to report new diversity targets and pledges. If we’ve been a little quiet, it’s because we’ve always supported representation: in fact, it’s one of our core values. We do have a think piece later on in this issue about how people of other races can be BLM allies, and we’re taking the time to highlight designers and other creatives of colour. Keep an eye on our podcast, London Runway Style, as we’re also going to be chatting about how the fashion industry deals with (or fails to deal with) racism in an episode there. It’s also Pride Month, and while we don’t want to take focus away from the importance of the BLM movement at
this moment, it’s also important not to forget the other marginalised groups who face discrimination all year round. In fact, the Black Trans Lives Matter movement has also been gathering steam, and it couldn’t come at a better time (except, of course, for ninety years ago, when advancements in surgery allowed for the first transitions). We do want to take this moment to say to our LGBTQ+ friends and readers that we see you, we hear you, and we haven’t forgotten you. In any struggle for equality and justice for a marginalised group, it’s important to remember those who are also still struggling in their own ways, and may even be further behind. As a feminist, I’ve learned that the fight to stand up for your rights must be accompanied by another action: turning and lending a hand to help those others who still need it to stand up as well. If even one single unchangeable personal attribute in our society is still a source of discrimination, we’re not doing our jobs as humans right.
In all of this turmoil, the students who made up the graduating class of 2020 must be feeling pretty forgotten – and shaken up. They face a scenario which no previous graduating class has ever experienced, but we do have some ways to relate: for example, those who graduated in 2008 can bear witness that a recession isn’t the end of everything, and that you can still thrive and forge your own path in the midst of economic uncertainty. We’ve more advice for students later on, as well as a few highlights from those who have graduated this year. On top of all that, we’ve had our first ever virtual LFW! Does it ever stop? It was also a mixed-gender fashion festival, so boundaries were being broken all over the place. I won’t go on about it too much here, as I’m doing a full LFW debrief later in the issue. Alright, take a deep breath and get ready to dive in. It’s been a busy month, and there’s lots to take in, but there’s some gorgeous editorials here to give you a breather. Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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PROFIT OR PASSION: HOW SHOULD YOU CHOOSE YOUR DEGREE? In the recent event of a nongraduation and a collapsing economy, Aaliah Tailor delves into the questionable possibilities of what the purpose and development of a degree can attain for you. Society raised you. You are obliged to believe that university is a space that is paved for your future - your career. You are informed that you are guaranteed more of a job than if you were to never go. Therefore, deciding what to explore has to be selected sensibly; possibly even concluding that university is not for you. I want you to recognise that, too, is an option. Profit or passion those are your two additional alternatives, and if you are fortunate, they will align. You acknowledge you cannot pay the mortgage or electricity bill with emotion, happiness or love - it demands money. Thus, logically, you decide on a course that will grant you a strong paying job when you graduate. You become financially secure. You are not happy, but you are surviving. You are providing. You may read that sentence and not
interpret an issue, but surviving signifies that you are striving to maintain existence - rather than learning to live. You established this attribute by observing your underprivileged parent(s). You noted how they battled to place food on the table, pay utility bills and/or rent. You knew money could amend that. I could tell you that money does not buy happiness, but I will affirm it does buy convenience. Nevertheless, studying a subject that you are not engrossed by, for the sole objective of income, is precarious. If you are disheartened throughout the period of your degree, can you, truthfully, say that you are benefiting from this experience? Furthermore, you could possibly deliver that energy into your profession. I understand that it is a risk to undertake your ambition and discover your life, but I think meaningful lives are for the extraordinary. Are you not extraordinary? On the contrary, let us say, what fascinates you does not entwine with a salary. Perhaps, you enjoy literature and you do not believe an income can be generated from it.
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Nonetheless, you have a yearning for writing. University is an institution for you to broaden your elementary knowledge, therefore by following the singular definition of the word, you ought to pursue literature.
University is an establishment for humanity to expand their knowledge on any topic they desire. There is no additional cause; no pursuit of a future or employment, simply attending to gain intelligence. However, the institute calls for money. The cost of one year is slightly over ÂŁ9,000, and at the end of your three years, you have purchased somewhat under ÂŁ30,000 worth of gratification. You become intellectually fulfilled. You are happy, but you are not providing. You are struggling. You might have relished the experience and absorbed the information learnt, but you have absolutely no notion of what to do with your newfound accomplishment. Was it really necessary to study the subject you were keen on? You devoted money to a degree that attained joy - yet could not gain monetary success.
However, what is the difference between the money that is spent on a course that you enjoy, or someone buying a sports car for pleasure? The answer is nothing. They are equally the same; both parties have spent excessively on something that made them happy. You are taught repeatedly that you should differentiate between job prospects and hobbies. As an adult, you should sanction yourself to the expectation. You will have the weekend for your pastimes. Therefore, you can continue to operate at work while indulging in your interests. People will inform you this is balance. It is evasion. It is disguised contentment. Thus, if you genuinely do love writing, delve into it with no doubts: become a journalist, a novelist, or newspaper columnist, but do something with your passion because you deserve to feel fulfilled. On an additional note, I think it requires a certain degree of privilege to choose; deciding what you want to explore is a selfish aspiration that you might not have the luxury for. Occasionally, the parent(s) choose for you. They believe they know what the most successful thing for you is: the qualification that will be of service to you and enrich you they presume they know what is better. As their child, you do not intend to disrespect them. Therefore, you merely obey. You feel obliged to comply because they have provided you with a great deal, thus, you do what delivers them joy.
LONDON RUNWAY
On the other hand, perhaps, you are the individual that is going to change your family: their status, their location, or their welfare. Hence, you cannot decide on just anything. The subject chosen has to transform immediately into a highranking salary and be beneficial to the family. The degree you choose has to be rewarding for everyone. There are concerns of further significance than your own wishes. For the majority of your life, you were impotent - unable to improve your environment for the better. Thus, there is an urge to be the change - to elevate the family.
Truthfully, the qualification may not be something you are pleased to learn. However, it may not be about the short-term satisfaction gained from pondering a subject of your desire but on the contrary, feeling the longterm contentment acquired from the development and shift within your family. However, you should not need to feel terrible for wanting a profession that nurtures your soul. I do not want to discredit your societal norms or family values, but you are not liable for what other people expect from you. We are constantly guided by individuals who have experienced life before us, yet, there is no right option; none of the possibilities presented are greater than the other. Yet, it is nonetheless, extremely vital that you are able to choose what you want to do in your life. A job can present a monumental status and salary, but if it is meaningless, it will hinder you. You are responsible for your own life, so grant yourself the respect to be in ownership of it. Everybody, including you, is allowed to determine their own adventure. You can read more of Aaliah’s thoughts on her website: aaliahtailor.com/blog Photos via Pexels Illustrations by Joe Bailey
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LONDON HAT EXHIBITION Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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MALAN BRETON'S VIRTUAL COLLECTION: 'IMMORTAL' Images via Malan Breton by DNA block
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XANDER ZHOU V I R T U A L
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LFW REACTION: A VIRTUAL VOLLEY OF FIRSTS Rhiannon D’Averc reflects on the first ever virtual mixed-gender London Fashion Week – the highlights, lowlights, and what we learned. We knew it wasn’t going to be business as usual. We knew, in fact, it wasn’t going to be anything like what we’d seen in the past. The official London Fashion Week website, maintained by the British Fashion Council, was mysterious almost to the last, only transforming into the new portal a matter of days before the festival was due to begin. Until then all we knew was that this was going to be the first ever virtual and mixed-gender Fashion Week – but we had no idea what form it would take. That form, as it turned out, was largely based around interviews, panel talks, and short art films. The catwalk or presentation format we have been used to was totally absent.
Only a small number of designers released new collections in a digital format – likely this was down to the fact that this time period was original reserved only for London Fashion Week Men’s, as well as the disruption to the supply chain. Zander Xhou was notable for a collection that was presented in video format, using a small number of models in a variety of garments with a voiceover explaining the looks. Well, at first. That voiceover quickly descended into chaos and nonsense, giving a fun twist to the presentation that kept it entertaining.
Off-schedule, there were a few other shows going on. Malan Breton actually stuck to the traditional catwalk format, albeit through a virtually generated system. The video launched just before the main LFW events, giving us something to watch while we waited. Although the use of technology is innovative, the video itself left something to be desired (the ability to actually see the garments clearly, for example). The looks were also totally virtual, so no real-world collection for us to scramble to buy after watching. Confusingly, they released three version of the same video – but we’ve got just the images so you can see the collection for yourself. You’ll see those in a few pages. The videos were posted on a regular schedule by the BFC through the Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, but most of them appear to have been pre-recorded. Another favourite was Hill and Friends’ contribution, a quirky look into the creation of their handbags which was all fantasy and very Wes Anderson. This took the approach of showcasing their existing and previously-launched designs, but was totally forgivable because it presented something fun and interesting. Others who showcased last season’s show in banal and obvious ways didn’t strike so pleasant a chord.
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Here’s our list of the things you can’t miss to help you get through the best bits – and skip out the boring, mundane, or uninspired bits that we had to sift through on your behalf!
Daniel W. Fletcher in Conversation with British Vogue The British designer has picked up a lot of fans since his stint on Next in Fashion, and deservedly so. This discussion delves into what life was like on the show, what he’s been up to since, and why he decided to launch his latest collection as both menswear and womenswear.
re'MAde by Marques’Almedia This is an interesting look at what the brand is doing to be more sustainable, and why. It’s a look behind the scenes of the brand – expect babies, home movies, and filming inside their studios. A good inspiration for any other larger brands who have a backlog of excess fabrics.
Tiscar Espadas ‘Capitulo II, first act'
Hill and Friends ‘Happy Factory From Home’
Of the art-style presentation films, this was our favourite. Invoking the idea of the bullfighter, incorporating dance as well as sculptural elements. It’s pretty effective, and definitely done to a high standard.
A joyful Wes-Anderson-style exploration of how the bags might be made. Though, we doubt that they’re actually hammered into shape by an army of clone concierges. One thing’s for sure, though – we’d like to work in this happy factory.
Xander Zhou AW20 - Prelude As we mentioned above, the narrative elements really made this more exciting. It was more of a straightforward presentation aside from the fantastical additions, and we loved getting a little bit of insight into the construction and inspiration behind the garments.
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Osman Yousefzada’s film ‘Her Dreams are Bigger’ This is a heart-breaking and soulsearching look at the people who make our fast fashion. Yousefzada took clothes from charity shops and returned to the countries where they were made,
interviewing workers about how they imagined the people who bought the garments to be. This will make you take a hard look at yourself and your privilege – and it’s absolutely worth it.
8ON8 ‘Crown of Ruins' A very fun jaunt through city streets with the focus on a whole range of hats and caps, you’ll want to watch it simply for the eye-boggling effects of the lens. In a time when everything seems very serious indeed, it’s a good bit of fearless and silly fun.
Pronounce Flip Book ‘Nezha Riots the Seas’ Taking inspiration from their last collection, this is an innovative way to tell a story – or rather, old-fashioned, since it uses the ancient art of the flipbook. It’s always awe-inspiring to do a flipbook done well. We don’t dare think about how many hours this might have taken.
Stephen Jones Millinery – ‘Analogue Fairydust’ Of all the actual virtual fashion shows we saw this week, this was probably the best. It used a virtual influencer/model to show off the hats, but we also got to see the sketches, then a rendering, and finally an all-colour version of the finished hat. Not too many frills, and we actually saw a full collection of very nice pieces.
palmer//harding in conversation This was the best of all the interviews and discussions we saw during the week. After watching it, we went right to the palmer//harding website to check out their supershirts and see what was still in stock. It was tempting to order something live just to hear the ‘ding’ of their sales notification. You can watch all of the shows, interviews, and art films on the official website at londonfashionweek.co.uk.
They're laid out in the order as they were shown, although you can also watch highlight clips created by the British Fashion Council to sum up each day if you are short on time. Find more of Rhiannon's work, and opinions on fashion shows and more, on Twitter @rhiannondaverc. All images via British Fashion Council and respective designers
CONTEMPORARY VALUES
Wardrobe Stylist/Fashion Designer: Björn Svenson & Magdalena Borowicz @warszafsky Photographer: Andrzej SzczerbaIg: fotokot.pro Makeup Artist: Ewa Piekut @ewa_piekut_photography Model: Marta Małecka @kiepiara
Sierra Model: Sierra Barton @sierrabarton24 Photographer: Grace Petovello @gracesvisuals Sierra wears: Dress from @elizabethnoelltd
Sierra wears: Dress from @elizabethnoelltd
LONDON RUNWAY
THE REVIVAL OF PRINTS This month, Cicilia Brognoli looks into the most fashionable prints for summer 2020, giving you a reminder of what we saw on the S/S20 catwalks around the world.
Finally, there are bright floral prints with equally colourful backgrounds. Erdem proposed almost glossy fabrics and soft silhouettes, which envelop the body without excessively revealing its shape.
Summer 2020 is the triumph of all kinds of prints. Here there’s a selection of patterns shown on the Spring/Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear catwalks in September 2019. The variety of designs proposed provides an endless number of colourful statement garments. The combination of lively motifs and fabulous fabrics is the winning combo for trendy outfits. There are two certainties for this summer's fashion: flowered garments are a MUST, and pattern mix matches are no longer in fashion. Unlike last season, the designers opted for more sober and individually used prints. Here is an overview of the coolest graphics for the hot months.
RED ROSES Make way for roses: the queens of flowers deserve a special position in the prints hit parade. For example, Chloé plays with roses in two opposing ways. The first proposal is a graceful white outfit with a slightly balloon-shaped skirt looking like a soft cloud. Above it there’s a short-sleeved top that adheres only to the lower part of the belly, and then becomes looser on the chest and shoulders. This top is graciously covered with a stretch of little red roses. The same print is also applied to two corsets, one with shoulder straps and the other strapless. The second is more alluring and is combined with black leather shorts creating an interesting contrast of styles. Moving to Milan, Antonio Marras designed various outfits with an eyecatching red-roses pattern applied on a layer of very delicate and pastelcoloured blossoms. The juxtaposition is made even more particular with many inserts of black lace.
BLOOMING Floral prints are considered a leitmotif present almost in every summer season, but this year there are dozens of floral variations. Among the varieties of flower-themed patterns, there is the vintage style. Flowery designs with a retro taste and saturated colours tread the catwalks of Oscar de la Renta, Dior, and Marc Jacobs. Anna Sui, Paco Rabanne, and Giambattista Valli opted for soft fabrics and delicate small blossoms. These tiny coloured decorations, if seen from far away, look like polka dots, but actually, they are often pink flowers. Without half measures, these cute buds lay on pastel or on black backgrounds. This choice was shared by many other designers, such as Givenchy and Alexander McQueen, who often offer stylised flowers on sensual and slightly transparent clothes.
Meanwhile, London’s Richard Quinn offers theatrical outfits. The giant red rose print is thus applied to completely
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different but equally intriguing shapes. The well-known model Erin O'Connor wore a long dress down to the foot. The same pattern is also used for two mermaid dresses embracing the body and enhancing its shape. This sensuality is transferred to some attire with multicoloured flower prints, including red roses, and embellished with feathers and layers of fluffy tulle.
TIE-DYE Dior’s collection is certainly inspired by Japanese dyeing methods, including the itajime shibori, a shaped-resist technique creating beautiful geometrical effects. Many other clothes present tie-dye, where a succession of coloured gradients chase each other and mix at times. Alberta Ferretti uses the tie-dye print for small blue decorations fading to white on orange pumpkin backgrounds. Longchamp creates spectacular shades of pink on a kneelength dress in light and pleated fabric. Lastly, Versace plays with tie-dye and bright shades of green, purple and pink applied on tights, long-sleeved shirts and sweatshirts.
GLOBETROTTER SOUL The Instagram accounts of many fashionistas are populated with trendy outfits and travel photos. The fashiontravel combination was celebrated by designers such as Sacai and Lela Rose. The first proposed a spectacular globestyle pattern in both black and white and colour prints. Sacai’s globe-shaped bag, tied on the wrist, is an extraordinary playful idea. Lela Rose pays homage to New York by depicting its skyline and a park, probably Central Park, with the Big Apple skyscrapers in the background. The globetrotter theme is also interpreted by Christopher Kane, who embraces the environmental cause. In fact, the title of his collection is 'EcoSexual', and several outfits have the print of planets. These are depicted in large size and they cannot be ignored. Indeed, some sweatshirts feature also the collection’s name, making the combination of eco-sustainability and sensuality remarkable.
JUNGLE CRAZE Natural elements are a predominant part of summer 2020 fashion. Tropicalthemed prints with lots of jungle animals are a touch of exoticism, sometimes ironic. Dolce & Gabbana presents prints with flowers, plants, and fun snouts of zebras, giraffes, and parrots. Exotic patterns are mainly green and in the case of Valentino, they are combined with pink, black, red, or lime backgrounds. Versace decidedly prefers green and very saturated colours. Donatella Versace for summer 2020 offered a throwback to 2000. Jennifer Lopez has, in fact, walked the catwalk wearing a new interpretation of the dress she had worn at the Grammy Awards 2000. Opposite to the strong and daring style of Versace, there’s always Giorgio Armani. For this season he combines tropical leaves and blue backgrounds. Armani uses a single diffuse tropic-style print characterised by only two colours: blue and pink. The slightly shaded effect of the leaves recalls Japanese tie-dye techniques.
PSYCHEDELIC SHAPES Christopher Kane certainly hasn't chosen prints that go unnoticed for this the summer season. Another type of pattern he used is a spherical motif on shades of orange, which creates a psychedelic effect. Also, Halpern plays with rounded geometric motifs, but with contrasting
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colours. A sinuous print in shades of red and teal completely envelops a suit and a long strapless dress. In both cases, the hypnotic print amazes the eye creating a magnificent play of colours. Alberta Ferretti created two psychedelic prints that resemble the wings of a butterfly. This is how these colourful prints seem to fly on graceful fabrics.
POLKA DOTS In psychedelic prints, geometric shapes chase each other convolutedly and once worn, they come to life producing a succession of moving colours. As a counterpoint, this season’s polka dots are a big trend, but they are used in the classic black and white version. Sacai proposes two black and white layered outfits. One features a light background, mini and medium-size dots, and sensual transparency on the neckline. Then, the dark attire has the same motifs but a seethrough skirt and a deep neckline. Carolina Herrera’s runway features six black and white outfits with this evergreen combination of polka dots. Five of them are suitable for everyday occasions, while one is a stunning white tulle gown with a single sleeve and big black polka dots. Without the peachy pink underskirt used on the runway, this would be a very theatrical seethrough dress. Dries Van Noten uses this classic pattern sometimes mixed and matched with other prints, like flowers and animal prints, creating bold outfits. Nevertheless, there are two full polka dots outfits. The first one is a long black trench with huge white dots and the matched handbag has smaller points. The latter proposal is a black dress with a series of sparse white dots.
DYNAMIC STRIPES Stella McCartney proposes stripes in the basic black and white version. She plays with the direction of the pattern: on a pair of baggy trousers the lines are vertical, but on the belt they become
horizontal. Meanwhile, a blouse features the stripes in three directions, creating almost an hypnotising effect. For Longchamp it's fine to mix and match garments with different style stripes. Shorts and blouses are matched even if they have different stripes, creating a combination of contrasting geometries. Louis Vuitton mainly chooses thin decorations, almost resembling threads. A couple of outfits instead have a pattern with differentthickness lines, creating a dynamic effect.
BOHEMIAN GIRL In addition to the tie-dye, another inspiration from the 1970s is the bohemian style. Long and softsleeved dresses are decorated with geometric and oriental-inspired prints such as paisley and tiny mandalas. Etro styles bohemian dresses with inlaid big-buckled leather belts to emphasise the waist, while Anna Sui uses 70s prints on semi-transparent dresses, often decorated with ruffles on the neck and cuffs. Erdem shows yellow and green bohemian outfits. These feature very tiny floral and geometric motifs. The yellow proposal is a maxi skirt with a fitted blazer and ribbons on the cuffs. The green one is again a long skirt matched with a short-sleeved ruffled blouse. The interesting fact of these outfits is that they look like dresses if seen from far away.
CRAYON TARTAN After polka dots and lines, another evergreen among the prints is tartan. This is usually associated with the cold season because it’s generally used on warm and heavy fabrics. However, summer 2020 makes this pattern fresh and delicate. As for Thom Browne, tartan is revisited in different versions of pastel-coloured tweed. Dior instead shows a stylised black plaid motif on a beige background. Tartan garments are combined with summery straw hats. Finally, Carolina Herrera gathers many colour variations of tartan, but always with a sober and chic look. Jackets with large balloon sleeves, short skirts, and wrapping dresses feature a cream and black or cream and powder blue plaid pattern. Even the large-buckle belts are in tartan and therefore are barely noticeable.
For print lovers, this is definitely the right season, and they can indulge themselves in colourful and never boring outfits. The multitude of patterns proposed for summer 2020 is truly crazy. From the most classic, but revisited, flower prints, to newer ones like globe graphics, the garments of this season maintain simpler silhouettes to emphasise their colourful and busy fabrics. Everyone will wear something flowery, and for the most adventurous there are exotic motifs even depicting animals snouts. For the more sober tastes there is a wide choice of geometric designs. Summer is here and the chance to show off your looks could be right around the corner, so it’s time to open your wardrobe and see what can be added to show off the most creative outfits. You can read more of Cicilia’s work on ciciliabrognoli.weebly.com Image credits: Rohmir - Ian Clark; Hazzy's, Alice Archer, Edeline Lee, Push Button, Paul Costelloe, Alexa Chung, Halpern, Malan Breton - Fil Mazzarino
NEW FACE Name: Thyra Shane Moore Age: 18 Location: Switzerland Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I started modelling in October 2019, when I shot with Christoph Marti. These shots were published in the "Period" and the "LYUN" magazines. Now I also have a shot that was published in the #photovogue which makes me really proud. I wouldn't call myself a full-fledged model yet - but my motivation is there and I'm doing my best! Where are you from originally? I was born in Switzerland since my mother is Swiss, but my father is American so I have both roots. I grew up bilingual so I speak both languages. I know that Switzerland may not be the best country for a model - so my goal is to go around the world for modeling. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? My talent isn't really unusual, since there are many "avgeeks" around the globe, but I think it might be quite
unusual for a woman. I am addicted to planes and everything that has to do with them, so you could show me a picture of any aircraft and I could tell you what kind of airplane it is. What would surprise people to know about you? I think it's really funny that most people think that I always was a person that is really self confident. There was a time in my life where I couldn't look at myself in the mirror and I hated the way I looked. But as I grew up, I learned to love myself the way I am and also the way I look. As a model you really have to be self confident or you won't make it. I have always been told to pursue your dreams and I am now. What are your modelling ambitions? For the future I first want to find the right agency. The most important thing for a model is to have an agency that knows exactly how to properly market and place me. After that there is a lot more to come. I want to get as many good jobs as possible and to make myself a name in the industry. My goal would be to be on the cover of Vogue or Harper's Bazaar.
Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti Model: Thyra Shane Moore @thyrashane
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NEW FACE Name:Â Natalie Spivak Location:Â Most often you can find me in Monaco, Dubai, New York, Los Angeles, London. Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? My first modeling steps started in school. I was 14 when I was invited by one of the photographers for my first professional photoshoot. The photographer was preparing her works for exhibitions. It was a success. After that, my parents sent me to modeling school. At the age of 15 years old I started to do my first runways. Even now, I remember all types of walks, turns. The same year I had my first catwalk. Where are you from originally? I was born in the south of Russia in a famous resort called Caucasian Mineral Waters. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I play piano, and graduated from 8 years of piano school. I like dancing, music, but my favorite has to be writing. Recently I received on offer to write a book. Probably it will be a great experience for me.
Retoucher: Elena Sidak Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Royal Beauty House Photographer: Yasir Arafat Malik Model: Natalie Spivak @queenissima Wardrobe Stylist: Lamya Boutique
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What would surprise people to know about you? I love to help. It is great to share happiness! To see more smiles on faces, more fires in hearts. To make this world kinder and happier! All started after my volunteering. I was helping poor kids come to attend a festival in Moscow, which was shown on TV. A group of 17 girls who I helped to come to the festival won the competition, got presents and pictures with celebrities. They had never been in the Capital before and for them their dreams came true, kids were extremely happy and very much thankful to me. I became addicted - it is great to help people, to see their shiny eyes, happy faces, and to help them reach their dreams. And I love animals a lot, can't miss talking to dogs in Hyde Park in London. Each of them has different characters and so interesting personalities. They always reply depending on their mood. Animals have a positive, nice, innocent energy. I like it a lot. What are your modelling ambitions? I'm a perfectionist. I put my 100% into anything and everything I do and my endeavour is to reach the top.
PORTRAIT Hi! I'm Martina and this is a small part of my most interesting portraits, I also wanted to add some photos taken from the remote shooting done in this quarantine! The skill of the model combined with my ideas brought out these particular photos.
portfolio piece Photographer: Martina Potenza @martina_potenzaph Models: Rosanna Spolsino @rosyspolsino; Marika Conte @redd___hair; Emanuela Potenza @_bgirlemanuela_; Giada Cibelli @jade.ci_; Evelina Cociu @evelinacociu
SATURDAY WALK Makeup Artist: Mariia Konkova @konkova_makeup_ Photographer: Anyta Maslova @anyta_maslova Model: Dmitriy Mamushin :dmitriy_leo_ Wardrobe Credits: Modi’s, Ritmika, Refresh
STAR CHILD CLASS OF 2020 This is my daughter, she missed out on many things with this being her graduating year: prom, senior trips, an honors graduation ceremony - but she is still alive and healthy. So, instead of letting her lament, I took her to a remote location and with a dress I crafted from the closet we went for a walk. Aside from the talks about what we have to be thankful for and the things we lost but what will still remain... These were the results of our adventure into the unknown.
Photographer: Amber Voge @amberedphotopdx
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ASHLEIGH SMALE
JODIE MORGAN
CHARITY FASHION SHOW IN AID OF MIND Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LARISSA REIT
LISA LYONS
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LIV KINGS
LOVE AND LACE
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MAKATZA
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OH GLORY GLORY
ROSE CORPS
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SHANNON BUCHAN
SISTER OF SINISTER
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STORY OF MY DRESS
TOMIA SWIM
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PURE LONDON TRENDS CATWALK
Photography by Rabi Sultan
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HOW TO SUPPORT BLACK LIVES MATTER AS A NONBLACK ALLY Darcey Sergison responds to the BLM movement, and how people of other races can show their support as a nonBlack ally.
The Black Lives Matter movement was founded in 2013 in response to acts of police brutality which led to the death of Trayvon Martin. Sadly, police brutality is still common in many parts of America and around the world. Things have particularly come to a head recently with the death of George Floyd at the hands of a police officer. No doubt you have seen the excruciating video which captured the policemen kneeling on the neck of George Floyd while he gasped out, “I can’t breathe”. This one video has been shared around the world, demonstrating the violation of an unarmed Black man as a human being. With the view count growing and more impassioned outpourings to George’s family, it is no wonder that protesting has erupted globally. In the UK, London has become the hub of these protests, with additional large demonstrations in Bristol and Birmingham. The Black Lives Matter movement states that their mission is to eradicate white supremacy. This addresses the root of the issue: inequality. The structurally facilitated disadvantage is clear in the poorer economic and health status of Black citizens. White privilege is so prevalent in society that it predominately gets overlooked in both small and large cases.
British actor Daniel Kaluuya says that ‘Racism’s not [always] seen in England, but it’s felt. And it’s oppressive’. Since the murder of Steven Lawrence in 1993 and the public outcry for change, the Metropolitan police were forced to address institutional racism and make improvements. But 27 years later the same issues are still being faced by Black citizens around the world. Institutionalised racism runs deep within British culture and for many people it is not until an incident of murder that they feel the need to address this. However, in order to instruct change in our society non-Black allies are crucial to the success of Black Lives Matter. These allies are needed as they are often in positions of power to speak out about their unfair privilege. If you are not Black, but you do support Black Lives Matter, you can make a difference. It is time for the non-Black allies of this movement to speak out against systematic oppression and challenge and put an end to acts of police brutality. Here are some tips on how… Advocate to put more qualified Black citizens in positions of power Equality within society starts from the structures of power themselves. The
government, and large international corporations, need to represent the diverse societies in which they serve. Currently, and for past decades, white citizens have dominated the top boards of these positions of power. Therefore, more needs to be done to assist and support candidates from Black communities, whether this be supporting their campaigns or simply voting for more diverse candidates. Spread the word about the importance of the movement to other non-Black citizens Black Lives Matter is not just a Black citizens’ issue. This is an issue that should concern everyone in a community as the state of oppression Black people endure is perpetuated by an entire society of apathetic citizens. Not only that, but oppression of one group going unchallenged can easily lead to further acceptance of the oppression of other groups. Learning, discussing, and debating these issues are crucial to more people understanding how appalling the situation of police brutality and inequality really is. It should not take acts of police brutality to inflame these passions for change but should be an ongoing process receiving results.
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Facilitate and encourage platforms for those that are oppressed to share their stories Racism has, sadly, been experienced at some level by a majority of Black citizens. In order for non-Black allies to understand more about this, more has to be done to let these stories be heard. No comparisons can be equated to Black experiences of racism. Non-Black allies, no matter their background, need to listen to stories of police brutality which are regular threats to Black lives, as well as all the small and myriad other ways in which racism presents itself. Education on Black narratives and history Even outside of Black History Month, this must occur in order to provide a decolonised education for all children. No matter the demographic make-up of a class at school, all children should be taught the history of all cultures. The Black Curriculum, founded by Lavinya Stennett, campaigns for embedded Black history within UK teachings beyond small references to Martin Luther King and Nelson Mandela. This new outlook at teaching includes modules such as art history as well as legal systems. It is crucial that education goes beyond slavery and cites Black inventors such as Garrett Morgan and
LONDON RUNWAY Patricia Bath. Petitions have also been set up to include more Black authors in GCSE reading lists, as currently they are far from diverse, dominated by white male authors. Therefore, at younger ages, educating children about a more diverse history will remove Eurocentric viewpoints which currently dominate education. Support Black businesses and charities It is crucial that in order to be a true ally you support and advocate for the success and equality of Black citizens. Whether this is by supporting a new start-up business or those less privileged by donating to an antiwhite-supremacist charity, it is crucial that non-Black allies’ support is heard as well as felt within Black communities. A few Black owned brands on Instagram to follow: @dailypaper, @unionclothing, @earthtonedcollective, @omiwoods, @patmcgrathreal, @dizziaklondon
Research the cause Many people are ignorant or misunderstand the cause of Black Lives Matter because they have not researched and understood the reasons for why this cause is so crucial to the creation of racial equality within society. Therefore, I recommend that non-Black allies read the following books to gain further understanding of Black Lives Matter: The New Jim Crow by Michelle Alexander, Locking Up Our Own by James Forman, Race to Incarcerate by Marc Mauer, and The Art of Protest by T. V. Reed.
Challenge the criminal justice system This has been discussed a lot recently due to retrials of Black citizens which has led to convictions wrongly being processed due to inequality within the justice system. By writing to the government and local MPs and by addressing this issue it is crucial in order to question discrimination and bias within courts of law. If you want to write to the government about issues to support causes like Black Lives Matter, Amnesty and other organisations have letter templates ready to fill out.
A pivotal moment from the film 'Hidden Figures' beautifully symbolising the allyship within the workplace at NASA, when the head of the Space Center gives Katherine Johnson (a Black American mathematician) an
Illustration by Ben Springham
opportunity to express her talents in calculations of orbital mathematics.
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Support the movement online If you don’t already make sure that you follow clear and reliable sources to understand more about Black Lives Matter. Here are some amazing sources to follow on Instagram: @blklivesmatter, @theconsciouskid, @colorofchange, @oppagenda, @ckyourprivilege
All photos via Unsplash
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc
Conflict of Ego Certified Sweat £150.00
Beauty Pie sleepeasy luxury silk sleep mask £50.00
Gung Ho Water Cow Sweatshirt £120.00
Artisan & Fox Stripes Shuttle Loom Wool Cushion Cover $55.00
Artisan & Fox Desert Rose Pompoms Wool Handloomed Cushion Cover $105.00
Beaumont Organic Natural Incense £8.00
ELM RD Serenity Essential Oil Wooden Wick Candle £30.00 Conflict of Ego Ashley Wide Leg Pant £160.00
YOROSHIKU 4649 Cotton Drill Sweatpants Joggers £160.99
STAY-IN COMFORT
Beaumont Organic KADIRA Leather Journal £29.95
Darcey Sergison
2020: THE YEAR TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Darcey Sergison’s open letter to the 2020 graduating class.
Dear fellow 2020 graduates, This was supposed to be our year! The year we graduate and celebrate all the hard work and sacrifices we have made over the past years. We remember the highs and lows we have endured, all for the perfect summer day with our family and friends. However, for a lot of us, this dream of our summer graduation seems like it will stay a dream for a while longer. But remember, even in these uncertain times, it may not feel like our year, but we can still make it that way! We may have gone home without having our last experience of a night out or our final sports
fixture, but what a time we have had! Now is the time to reflect on what an amazing experience we have been fortunate enough to have. Sort out all those photos from parties and balls alike. Remember the small joys of thoughtful gifts from friends when you were feeling down. Let’s not forget these moments of light in such difficult times. It is so easy to wallow in all the sadness of the cancelled events and plans we had, but better times will come. It may seem hard to imagine at the moment, but we have so much to live for in the future. This period of isolation and social distancing does not have to be as lonely as it sounds. In these times, where life feels like it
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is on pause, use this for selfimprovement and reaching out to others. Now is the time to rekindle old hobbies and interests. Whether this is fitness at home, using water bottles as makeshift weights, or whether it be knitting, like your grandmother may have taught you, we should try and use this time wisely. This pause in life will not last forever, so make the most of it. After this, life returns to the race it was before. We will graduate, and our life as working adults will begin. Despite the sadness that follows leaving university earlier than expected, now is the time to slow life down. Continue studies but with reduced pressure. Enjoy smaller
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Velina Petkova
aspects of life rather than looking ahead to the bigger picture. But this is not just the time to be kind to yourself but also to your community. Times are hard, and this may not have been how you expected your year to turn out. But moving forward, let’s take what we have learnt from our time at university and share this knowledge with those around us. Not just the academic interests that we have pursued, but the life lessons we have accidentally stumbled across along the way. University has never been just about the degree, but instead the experience of life and, although cliched, discovering yourself and your interests. So now is the time to share the laughs and thoughtfulness you and your housemates had. Share the chats with your family and friends, but also with your neighbours. Reach out to those around you. Be there for those
who are most vulnerable and apply these life skills to one of the hardest challenges we have faced yet. Although our graduation is taking place within a pandemic, we are not the only class in history to face challenges when graduating. Many graduates facing economic crises, such as in 2008, were also worried about the job market, but faced the challenges head on and came through the other side. The biggest fear for myself and other graduates is when and where I will get a job. However, despite the rush to get employment now in these uncertain times we can use the time we have to further develop skills for future employment. Here are some tips I would suggest to boost your confidence in finding a job and use your free time productively: Revisit your CV Even though it is a tough and often avoided job, editing your CV is vital to keep it up to date with your achievements and interests. It is also
important to get outside opinions on your CV whether it be family or friends. Additionally, I suggest using your university’s careers centre and booking a reflection session, it is crucial to look over your CV and make it as approachable to employers as possible in your chosen field. Try new things Diversify your abilities by trying new things. I have found short online courses have been incredibly useful and also time-filling when there is not much else to do. Coursera has been a useful platform for me to try new courses on multiple areas of interest. These curated courses from top universities around the world will look amazing to add to your CV, as it shows productive development of skills and knowledge. Online work experience Even if you were supposed to have internships this summer, ask employers if they have online
LONDON RUNWAY opportunities for you to still get involved in. Also look at websites such as Inside Sherpa that provide online opportunities. Alternatively look at smaller companies who may need administration help and offer experience. I have found that with my writing it has been an amazing experience as well as useful to write for a range of magazines and platforms, even if it is volunteered as this has helped me to gain experience in writing. Look beyond graduate jobs Although many 2020 graduates will be looking at graduate schemes from top companies, it is also good to look at a range of jobs. By increasing your search, it will also increase your chances of being employed faster. Even if you choose not to join a graduate scheme this does not limit your ability to increase your levels of experience and job level. Don’t overlook your skills It is important that when you are considering what your employer wants, you think outside the box.
Caroline Styan
Digital knowledge has always been crucial to companies and emerging graduates obtain this. Despite the economic difficulties in 2008, graduates had knowledge of platforms such as Facebook and Twitter, which were new for many companies unable to recognise the importance of obtaining these platforms for business. The same digital knowledge has developed further and with new platforms, such as TikTok, employers will want to find new and exciting platforms to use today. Better times will come, but for now, fellow 2020 graduates, we can do our bit. Let’s show the lessons we have learnt whilst being at university. Now is the time to focus on kindness to ourselves and our community. Our society deserves better, so let’s give it to them. We are all in this together and the future is bright. Stay safe, Darcey Sergison Images via Darcey and her friends, celebrating their graduation at home
Cara Balen
BACK TO
Clothing: Spasibo Shop @spasiboshop
Wardrobe Credits: Polina wears: Dress @volkimodniki; Blouse
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Anna Babaeva
@spasiboshop; Accessories and shoes @spasiboshop;
@littledrop.of.poison
Jacket @spasiboshop
Models: Polina Gulenko @polliana._; Nikita Ruma
Nikita wears: Cloak @choglu_; Pant @spasiboshop;
@peek_nik
Sweatshirt @spasiboshop; Shoes @vans; Belt @spasiboshop
Photographer: Irina Sukretnaya @sukretnaya_irina Assistant: Kozlova Ekaterina @asynion_photo
CHESTNUT LOOK
Photographer: Veronika Gergert @photo_gergert Accessory Designer: Angelika Maralova @Angelika_maralova @__florange__arm Fashion Designer: Anna Mix Dress @Anna_mix_dress Model: Pauline Gavrilnko @Poli-ga
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THE MYSTICAL, THE SENTIMENTAL, AND THE SPIRITUAL:
ESCAPE INTO THE PERFECT BOOK THIS SUMMER This week Cara Balen talks about ten amazing books that you should check out this summer. From emotional memoirs to gripping adventures, this list will have the perfect book for you! As summer rolls on, I find there is nothing better than to escape into a good book. It is important to take time to reflect on the world around us, and I believe there is no better way to do so than to delve into different cultures, discover new perspectives, and explore diverse walks of life. Many of us may feel a little bit lost at the moment, or perhaps bored of seeing the same surroundings - so why not take your own journey, with nothing but printed pages for a guide? Here are ten books you can read this summer in order to submerse yourself in the mystical, the sentimental, and the spiritual.
Song of Solomon – Toni Morrison This influential book, which was accredited by the Swedish Academy as one of the books that led to Morrison’s Nobel Prize in Literature, encapsulates the best of her exquisite writing. Dabbling in magical realism, whilst still conveying candid aspects of African-American experience, Song of Solomon takes the reader on an epic journey across America as the protagonist attempts to unearth his fragmented family history. With Black Lives Matter marches hitting the headlines, it is important to learn about the history of race relations and hear the stories of those still feeling the aftermath of slavery. Morrison’s beautifully rendered prose, whilst fictional, gives the reader a glimpse into an American psyche battling with the dark past of the ‘land of the free’. With hidden cults, a secret message, and the occult, what more could you want? The Consolations of Philosophy – Alain de Botton Botton’s elegantly written nonfiction novel will take you on a journey through ancient philosophical thought, starting with Socrates, to the more modern
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musings of Nietzsche. In doing so, Botton comforts the reader with scholarly wisdom, showing that even ancient Greek aphorisms or obscure German proverbs can help with contemporary issues such as heartbreak or monetary troubles. If you are looking for a self-help book that teaches whilst it consoles, then look no further. Botton’s commentary on philosophical dialogue will help you to spiritually reconnect whilst also serving as a crash course on the great thinkers of the Western world. Emma – Jane Austen Whether you have seen the recently released film adaption or not, this book is a classic for those who wish to escape into Austen’s perfectly curated world of ball dresses, bonnets, and brilliant humour. I have to admit I am wary when it comes to Austen as obvious love stories and wandering male gazes have never quite done it for me. However, Emma overthrows such expectations as we are introduced to a witty, sarcastic protagonist who we can’t help but love. The titular character plays a sassy yet misguided matchmaker, hilariously creating love that goes awry. Austen stated that she created ‘a heroine whom no one but myself will much like’, but I promise you that reading this novel will prove Austen herself wrong!
Mr Penumbra’s 24-Hour Bookstore – Robin Sloan Take a dive into the fantastical life of Clay Jannon, whose world combines the old realm of obscure bookshops and supernatural prophecies with the futuristic land of Google and cyberspace. This whimsical novel reads like you’re in a dream, as Sloan delightfully recounts ethereal settings, all the while introducing you to quirky bibliophiles, computer wizzes, and even an underground cult. It is as if Sloan’s imagination is rendered in Nintendo pixels – an apt description for an author so interested in the possibilities of technology. Just like the classic Gameboy, this novel is full of fun adventures, with life just bursting out of every page. This truly is the novel in which to seek refuge from any dreary days this summer! Riders of the Purple Sage – Zane Grey This 1912 novel is the ultimate throwback for anyone that wants to forget the stress that is 2020. Known for being one of the most popular western novels in America, Grey’s grand tale takes place amongst a Mormon settlement, where ‘gentiles’ and religious fanatics must fight out their differences amongst the striking Utah plains and spectacular canyons. Grey intertwines the story of Jane Withersteen, who must resist her oppressive patriarchal community, with the capture of a
cross-dressing female bandit as the two face their own separate trials of being seen as the ‘lesser’ sex out on the frontier – a pleasant surprise for a novel written over 100 years ago. Of course, this western also has its fair share of shootouts, horse races, and rugged men riding out into the sunset. Notes from a Small Island – Bill Bryson A reviewer on Goodreads calls Notes from a Small Island the ‘book version of comfort food’ which is the most accurate description I can think of. Bryson takes the reader on an expedition around Britain, as he embarks on a farewell tour
before he returns back to his home country, America, after living in the UK for almost two decades. His love of the quirky country we call home shines through the pages, as he somehow manages to make even rainy days and dated B&Bs sound endearing. For those of us who cannot travel this summer, why not sightsee the land that lies just beyond your doorsteps? Wide Sargasso Sea – Jean Rhys If you want to get your teeth into a really thought-provoking book this summer, Rhys has the perfect novel. Although the plot is often melancholy, it will definitely give any reader pause, as Rhys explores the way in which colonialism and damaging patriarchal oppression affects the world-view of a young girl living in 1830s Jamaica. Rhys twists Charlotte Brontë’s classic Jane Eyre by creating a backstory for the infamous mad woman in the attic, and in doing so turns everything we know about the aloof Rochester on its head. This is not a light read, but it is definitely worth it as Rhys doesn’t shy away from showing the dark and tangled paths of those whose lives have been ravaged by subjugation.
Aristotle and Dante Discover the Secrets of the Universe – Benjamin Alire Saenz June is Pride Month, and as such it is the perfect time to discover some of the beautiful stories penned by LGBT+ authors. This captivating coming of age story focuses on the blossoming relationship between two unlikely friends. Saenz perfectly captures the electric storm that is being a teen who has the whole world at their fingertips without quite knowing how to fully grasp this strange thing we call life. A perfectly crafted nostalgic (and adorably wholesome) love story twinkles out from every word in this slice of life novel. If you want to get into your feelings this summer, Aristotle and Dante are here to make you laugh, cry, and everything in between! A Street Cat Named Bob – James Bowen This uplifting memoir tells the story of a man who found hope in the form of a furry feline friend. Bowen recounts his struggles with homelessness and addiction, and the way his life changed when he met Bob, a ginger tomcat that seemed to adopt Bowen rather than
the other way around. This sincere autobiography gives the reader a glimpse into life on the streets of London and the difficult road to recovery from drug dependence. Everyone loves a good success story, and the cute tale of Bowen and Bob is guaranteed to make your heart melt. Belly flowers. – J. R. Stumbling across this book is like unearthing an uncut gem in the middle of an arid desert. J. R.’s astoundingly stunning writing combines poetry and prose to create a kaleidoscope of imagery and a wave of emotions. The collection of fragmented text that makes up belly flowers. forms a mosaic that represents the experiences of a queer woman of colour. Although it is quite short, it is certain that you will come to this bewitching book again and again, as each reread divulges new secrets. Like belly flowers themselves, J. R.’s recently published work is delicate, bold, and beautiful all at once. If, after reading any of these books, you would like to discuss them or even fangirl over them, please
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tweet me @Balencara – I would love to hear what you think! You can read more of Cara Balen’s work on Twitter by following @BalenCara.
SUBTLE & DANGEROUS
Photographer: Monika PĹ‚usa @monika_plusa Assistant: Alan Krasuski @alankrasuskiphotography Hair Stylist: Diana Moroz @dimorozko13_hair Makeup Artist: Basia Niezbecka @basia.makeup Wardrobe Stylist: Agnieszka Szataniak @stylist_agnieszka Model: Martyna Kiejno at Division Models @martyna.kiejno
Martyna wears: Dress @aleksandra.jendryka
Martyna wears: Body @tokarskastudio
Martyna wears: White dress @kry_szy
Martyna wears: Body @tokarskastudio; Bolero @femmeillimite
Martyna wears: Blue dress @kry_szy; Shoes @zara
Martyna wears: Shirt & Trousers @kry_szy
Martyna wears: Dress @femmeillimite; Earrings @hm; Shoes @zara
Martyna wears: Shirt & Trousers @kry_szy; Shoes @reserved
Martyna wears: Bolero @femmeillimite
Martyna wears: Dress @reserved; Coat @aleksandra.jendryka; Shoes @zara
A (Brief) Queer History of Fashion In celebration of pride month, Maria Henry dives into the LGBTQ+ history of fashion.
Why are the LGBTQ+ community so heavily associated with the fashion industry? Though it is impossible to summarise the entirety of the LGBTQ+ community’s influence on the world of fashion, this article will hopefully be able to explain some of the ways in which the community has continuously contributed to the history and progression of the fashion industry. Fashion is not only a fascinating art form, but it is also a tool for selfexpression. It allows us to show who we are on the inside, on the outside. To express a mood, a theme, or an image of ourselves that we want other people to see. Fashion has been long associated with members of the LGBTQ+ community and many prominent designers have identified within this spectrum.
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This has led to a clichéd stereotype that gay people know how to dress. However, as director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Valerie Steele proposed, there could be a more socio-cultural reason as to why so many queeridentifying people became interested in fashion. Her theory is that gay people in the 20th century had to be “hyper-aware of how to read and analyse clothes so as to dress in a way that would allow them to communicate with other people but not to be recognised by a homophobic society”. Thus, the idea that queer people understood the power of an image that fashion can give you. They, therefore, looked more closely at it, so they could present an image of themselves that allowed them to assimilate and hide their true identity within their disapproving, heteronormative societies. As a
LONDON RUNWAY Alexander McQueen emerging with the hopes of using fashion as a platform to tell stories and play with shape and form. Today, the fashion industry is often seen as a supporter of the queer community, as many of the designers at the head of the business are gay people. However true this may be, it is also important to remember that for many years LQBTQ+ people were hidden from history. For years, queer designers were not allowed to be who they were in the eyes of the public, and although their designs give us a window into their minds and carry their legacies and talent — it is only now we are living in a more accepting time that we are truly able to see the influence that LGBTQ+ people had on the expansion of the fashion world and give them the recognition they deserve as pioneers of the art form. by-product of this, they were more conscious of the fashions of the time and were able to approach both male and female fashion with a higher degree of incentive. How the queer community began to influence fashion history As queer people slowly became more accepted within society, their presence and influence within the fashion world continued to grow as there was less pressure to hide or assimilate into society. They were able to become more experimental with their designs, blurring normative lines by playing with ideas of gender and what men and women were supposed to appear as. Fashion also began to grow into a more theatrical art form, with designers like
“Black Drag Queens Inventend Camp” In 2019, in response to the Met Gala’s theme ‘Camp’, Lena Waithe took a stand for the Black Queer community by wearing a pinstripe double-breasted suit designed by menswear house Pyer Moss that had the words "Black Drag Queens Inventend Camp” embroidered on it. This not only highlighted a lot of celebrities’ willingness to ignore the queer roots of the theme, but also an inequality within the LGBTQ+ community itself, which sometimes forgets to highlight the extremely important influence that black queer people had in forming the queer culture we see expressed today. Black Drag queens often found themselves without a space within the typically white-dominated world of drag. They were further marginalised even within the community they were meant to belong to. As such they carved out their own spaces, finding freedom in highly stylised, self-aware performances which allowed them, through the mode of ‘camp’, to express themselves. They would craft amazing costumes, playing with ideas of gender identity and highlighting fluidity— finding their own space where there wasn’t one given to them. Though the history of camp itself is long and difficult to pinpoint, Waithe reminds us that the white-dominated image of fashion history which we often see isn’t the true or only history. Black drag queens did very much influence the experimental course of fashion, only
LONDON RUNWAY this history was somewhat buried and only with the bold statements made by activists such as Waithe are we beginning to see the true faces of fashion history unearthed. Modern day support In 2018 designer Christopher Bailey voiced his support for young LGBTQ+ designers and dedicated his final collection for Burberry “to the best and brightest organizations supporting LGBTQ youth around the world”. He continued to write on Instagram that, “There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength and our creativity”. The collection featured the first-ever rainbow check Burberry scarf, incorporating pride colours into the classic Burberry design. These rainbow additions continued into the runway show with models wearing dresses with rainbow motifs and sweaters embroidered with ‘Burberry’ in multi-coloured thread. Perhaps one of the biggest moments from the show was when openly queer model Cara Delevingne took to the runway sporting an oversized rainbow fur coat with the classic Burberry check lining.
Another notable show took place in 2017 when the fashion house Opening Ceremony created a drag extravaganza for their spring/summer show. The show was created and hosted by drag queen Sasha Velour and aimed to showcase the art of drag. Velour handpicked over 40 LGBTQ+ inclusive models and stated in an interview with Elle that “Drag performers have been seen as a low form of entertainment for a while and to be in this space where we’re being treated like valuable performers is world-changing”. The show highlighted how the industry is recognising the demand for change and exclusivity, as well as highlighting how drag is more than just a theatrical performance but also an artwork created with fashion worthy of recognition. These are only two examples of many ways in which modern designers are taking initiatives to show their support for the LGBTQ+ community, openly and with pride. Though there is still a long way to go, it is inspiring to see how many fashion houses are now unapologetically speaking out for their support gay rights and helping to voice the need for activism and acceptance.
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Moving forward and the growing need for inclusivity This year we are seeing the importance of recognising social and racial inequality more than ever. Within the fashion industry, things have been getting progressively better for the LGBTQ+ community, however, this doesn’t mean that the progress needs to stop. We need to keep fighting for change, inclusivity and recognition within the fashion world. Fashion is a tool which can be used by anyone, to express anything — therefore it is vital to the progress of the industry that it does reflect everyone. This includes POC, LGBTQ+ people, disabled people, people of different shapes and sizes, and people of different ages. ‘Inclusive’ does not just mean one socially acceptable or marketable image of a person, but rather a diverse range of people. The fashion community must realise, now more than ever, that we can’t just hope for change — we have to fight to make it ourselves. If you enjoyed this article you can read more by following @mariawriteshere on Twitter.
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HOUSE of iKONS Photography by Mark Gunter
UK-CHINA FASHION ARTS & CULTURE
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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice curates a list of pieces by Black owned brands that are budget friendly yet still quality-made. Perfect for the student or recent graduate looking to dress fabulously without breaking the bank!
Aries March 21 - April 20 Alero Jasmine’s Red Dahlia Bralet will fire up any Aries’s summer ensemble. With the intricate floral print, it’s sure to catch draw eyes!
Taurus April 21 - May 21 Chelsea Bravo’s Faces Asa Miki Hat brings an edge and artful essence to a Taurus’s everyday look! Not obnoxious or understated, it’ll quickly become a staple!
Gemini May 22- June 21 This stunning Crush Bandana by Knots in bright yellow, red and blue will complement the bubbly Gemini. With a playful African print and breathable cotton material, it can be styled however you like!
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Cancer June 22- July 22 Kemi Telford’s Layi Rose Garden Free Skirt is lightweight yet quality-made. The Japanese inspired midi length and elegant floral pattern will make this classy sign the belle of streets!
Leo July 23- August 21 For the goddess Leos, this ASANTEWA cover-up by Ashanti Swimwear will leave them feeling regal and glorious even at the side of a public pool or a warm summer beach day!
Virgo August 22- September 23 Incorporating geometric shapes and patterns taken from architecture, Chalk’s Navi Earrings in Tortoiseshell are a perfect addition to any Virgo’s collection. A minimalistic statement for the practical sign.
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Libra September 24- October 23 This bikini cut Gili Top by Mie is perfect for those hot summer days, and the pinky peach colour brings brightness to any outfit!
Scorpio October 24- November 22 A shirt that lays down the truth just like a Scorpio! Vsmine’s Happiness is Expensive T-Shirt is perfect for the chic Scorpio to dress up or down with either a leather jacket or printed windbreaker.!
Sagittarius November 23- December 22 For this wanderlust sign, traveling when restrictions are lifted will be a must, so Cultureville’s Adetayo African Print Reusable Face Mask will be a great accessory and piece to style around for any of their adventures to come!
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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Heza’s Rubiks White T-shirt is minimal and comfortable for the simplistic Capricorn, but the slight pops of colour keep it interesting and unique.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 With a passion for fashion, Inoir’s African Print Side Crop Top will be the coveted dream piece for any Aquarius to style with.
Pisces February 20 - March 20 This stunning Ondine Single Earring by Mamater has water grey labradorite and freshwater pearls. With the added gold plated brass accents, a Piscean will revel in the elegance of this piece.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via thier respective retailers Illustrations by Lauren Rowley
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ONE RED SCARF We wanted to tell the story of a red scarf and its versatility and environmental friendliness. Perhaps you do not need to sew a thousandth dress to have a good time this summer. Protecting the planet is the task of young and active people. An overabundance of shapes and product units will not make you happier. But perhaps a beautiful sunset or a peony bush will help you feel better.
Photographer: Nadi Yashkova @nadisarov Model: Stasia @stasia_woow Wardrobe: Scarf - Photographer's Grandmother
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
IF YOU COULD STUDY ONE NEW THING, WHAT WOULD IT BE?
&
“A new language - communication is the key to success � -Fil Mazzarino, Photographer
"I always wanted to take film studies - I'd love to direct a short film" - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
"NUTRITION." - Nea Milano, jewellery designer
"Law" - Sherrece Ollivierre, model
"If I could choose again I would study something with what I could earn big money. Something like international business maybe. I do love my job for the fullest, but being a creative and earning money is quite hard"
"Law or acting - totally opposite but somehow related?" - Elena McFannels
- Jaqueen, fashion designer
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
LONDON RUNWAY VIRTUAL FESTIVAL 13 - 19TH JULY Between the 13th and the 19th of July, we're holding a special virtual festival of entertainment on our social media channels for you! What can you expect? Here are just a few things you can look forward to... Special sale on back issues Live talks with industry insiders Music performance Inside look at our team and processes And more to be confirmed... Keep an eye on our Instagram @londonrunwaymag for all of the details and announcements closer to the time - and stay tuned for all of our events live during the week! We'll see you there...
NEXT: THE SUNSHINE ISSUE THE GRADUATE ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT SABIRAH BY FIL MAZZARINO