WHAT YOUR CLOTHES SAY ABOUT YOU . INTERVIEWS WITH ZEBEDEE + MANIMEKALA . PLASTIC FABRICS
FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2020 FINALISTS . PURE LONDON . HOPE & GLORY . 7 FULL-COLOUR EDITORIALS
ISSUE 52 27TH JULY 2020
THE SUNSHINE ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Maria Henry, Cicilia Brognoli, Grace Pickford, Darcey Sergison, Cheyenne GriegAndrews, Sandy Aziz, Madisen Crandall Staff Illustrator: Ben Springham Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk / kavyar.com/london-runway-magazine Contributors: Rabi Sultan, Dylane Cabano, Andraina Razafindrakoto, Hunter Wong, Asuna Yuriko, Emily Appleton, Carrie Nielson, Galya Kerns, Krista Strelkova, Lil Safonova, Ram Eagle, Le Thi Hoang Nga, Ninah Aguila, Dac Ngoc Designer House, Vivienne Monique, Dani Geddes, Vera Camplese, Camilla Calato, David La Pietra, Andrea Ferraza, Guilia Fortini, Hazal Aktan, Aajah Harris, e. Andrew Murray, Elena Gr, Parel Thijs, Saskia Conings, Lisa Viola, Enzo Alegria, Sara Iris, Jose Graca, Variars Moreira, and Izabella Viana Special thanks to Manimekala Fuller, Laura Johnson, Maxine Griffiths, and T on the Green
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Advertising department Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
© 2020, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
73 VISUALS
58 WORDS
Pure London: Brands Runway and Backstage
7
Your Daily Dose of Vitamin D: The 4 Sunshine Vitamin
Face of London Runway 2020 Finalists
14
Is Recycled Plastic Clothing Actually Good for the Environment?
33
New Faces
37 Interview: Manimekala
55
Portfolio Piece
43 45
How Your Fashion Moments Can Affect Your Emotions
70
Journey to Ephesus (Editorial) Golden Sunshine (Editorial)
52
Who Are You? The Colours in Your Wardrobe Tell All
83
The Flower Garden (Editorial)
58 64
Interview: Zebedee and the 'Inclusion Revolution'
96
Azteca Distruction (Editorial) Style (Conscious) Guide: Swimsuits
69
Our Favourite Travel Instagram Accounts
115
Sunsoaked (Cover Editorial)
73 Your Style Horoscope
118
Summer Glow (Editorial)
86 The Big Question
122
Manic Pixie Dream Girl (Editorial)
99
Hope & Glory
109
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l This month has been a busy one, and we are chock-full of great content for you in another issue today - and with lots to catch you up on if you haven’t been following along with us on social media! Let’s start with the London Runway Virtual Festival, a week-long ride of live talks, music, makeup, and more that took place between the 13th and the 19th July. We put all of our back issues down to the never-seen-before price of £2.99 to mark the occasion in our biggest sale yet, and that was just the beginning! On Monday, I led you through an exploration of the back issues we have in stock and what you could look forward to from each one. Then on Tuesday we kicked things off in earnest with a live talk on how models can get into magazines, with special guest Maxine Griffiths. Starting with detailed instructions on how you can get specifically into London Runway, and some questions from viewers, we then went on to discuss more general advice
from how to get started with your first shoot to the worst things models can do when submitting Wednesday was our live makeup demonstration, as I attempted to follow along with professional backstage makeup artist Sidrah Sardar as she showed me how to do a look from a real runway show. On Thursday, I spoke to the amazing Samanta Bullock about representation and diversity in the media, and why it matters – and how the mainstream media is still falling short. For Friday we had a super special performance by our own Candice Wu, singing a mix of original songs and cover versions for your enjoyment. On Saturday, it was time to meet the team – with quick interviews and chats with our team members, allowing you to understand what everyone does and see the faces behind every issue. Finally, we wrapped things up on
Sunday with a look back at our highlights and your reactions to them. It was a fabulous week with a lot of fun for everyone, and if you missed anything you can catch it all now on IGTV. We’ve put a special collection together just with videos from the festival so you can find everything easily! And that wasn’t even all of it – we also wrapped up the shoot for the finalists of the Face of London Runway, which you can read about later in this issue. We’ve had some very exciting episodes of our podcast, London Runway Style, which you can find anywhere you listen to podcasts. We’ve even somehow found the time to put together a stunning new issue with some spectacular editorials! In fact, I should probably let you get on with it and read it – so, without any further waffling:
Enjoy!
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
YOUR DAILY DOSE OF VITAMIN D:
THE SUNSHINE VITAMIN This issue, Grace Pickford explores the benefits of sunshine for our mental and physical wellbeing. Imagine if there was an all-natural way to simultaneously clear troubled skin, lower anxiety and depression, improve sleep, and boost your immunity… You’re in luck. It can be easy to forget that human bodies function as one intricately connected system. Everything is joined, so if we are missing just one vital ingredient, the cake will be too dry or the soup will be tasteless. Our minds and bodies exist in an intertwined relationship where the cogs are oiled by many internal and external factors. What is this secret ingredient, we hear you ask? The well-known risks that are associated with over-exposure to the sun’s UV rays, including skin and eye damage, are very real dangers of spending too much time in the sun without protection. However, it has been found that a lack of access to the sun can cause just as much harm to your health as getting too much. The sun is one ingredient that, when missing, can have detrimental impacts on your mental and physical health Not getting enough sunlight over long periods of time can cause a variety of
problems including depression, problems with skin, weight gain, cognitive issues, weak bones, and some cancers. It can also affect people mentally, as without sunlight serotonin levels drop, and this is associated with higher risks of experiencing depression. Spending just 15 minutes in the sun can have incredible benefits and we will divulge all, just keep reading!
VITAMIN D The Sunshine Vitamin One of the sun’s many miracles is the process of Vitamin D production that occurs in the skin when it comes into contact with the sun’s rays. When the skin is exposed to UVB radiation from sunlight, a photosynthesis occurs which triggers a process of converting cholesterol in the skin to produce Vitamin D. Why is it so important? Vitamin D is vital to the body’s overall health and well-being. It regulates at least 1000 different genes that govern almost every tissue in the human body. It is also responsible for lowering high blood pressure, protecting against inflammation and improving the brain’s functions. The Sunshine Vitamin is vital in providing the nutrients necessary for keeping healthy bones, teeth and muscles as it helps to regulate the amount of calcium in the body.
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SEROTONIN The Happy Hormone “Don’t worry! Be happy!” Sunshine is the Willy Wonka of the serotonin factory - the hormone responsible for warding off low moods and stress. It is a well-known fact that sleep is one of the greatest medicines, and the production of serotonin can improve the amount and quality of sleep that we get each night, having a domino effect on our mood and stress levels.
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It is recommended to wear a broadspectrum sunscreen, meaning protection from UVA and UVB radiation, of at least 30 SPF every day.
no artificial fragrances, nasty chemicals, or alcohols. This is a great drugstore option for those wanting a mini miracle worker to protect their skin.
For those with oily or acne-prone skin it can be difficult to find an SPF that will sit comfortably on top of their daily moisturiser or underneath makeup. Here are a few SPF products that we recommend for all skin types so that everyone can stay protected whilst enjoying the sun’s benefits:
Supergoop! Unseen sunscreen SPF 30 £30 at cultbeauty.co.uk
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Pure Mineral Sunscreen Moisturiser SPF 40 £30 at lookfantastic.com We all exist within the 24-hour daily cycle of light and dark. At night, the hormone melatonin is released, and during the day, sunlight triggers the production of serotonin. It is the balance of these hormones that keeps our internal body rhythms balanced and functioning healthily. Cortisol is our stress hormone, which is highest in the morning. It has been discovered that watching the sunrise and catching sunlight early in the morning will reduce stress and help you to sleep better and get your body patterns back to a healthy rhythm.
THE DARK SIDE Creeping in the shadows are the prominent repercussions of overexposing the skin to the sun’s UV rays. After sitting out in the sun for longer than just 15 minutes without protection, short term damage can become visible in the form of sunburn. However, continuous over-exposure to the sun can lead to long term damages such as certain cancers, as well as the acceleration of the process of ageing in the skin. Heat stroke is another danger. This is the experience of feeling faint and exhausted after being in the sun for too long. It can lead to damage of the brain and internal organs. If you are already dehydrated, heat stroke can be detrimental to your health.
A zinc-based sunscreen for oily skin types, this SPF is cruelty free and contains zinc oxide making this a mineral sunscreen. Physical/mineral sunscreens will sit on top of the skin and absorb the sun’s harmful rays, unlike their chemical counterparts which work by absorbing into the skin first before absorbing UV rays. As mineral sunscreens are less irritating, they are great for oily or acne prone skin. This product is also free from colourants, harsh chemicals and parabens, as well as being noncomedogenic.
Dr Jart Cicapair Tiger Grass Colour Correcting Treatment SPF 30 £12 at lookfantastic.com For dry uneven skin tone, this colour correcting SPF powered by Korean skin care technology is a useful sun protector for those in need of a little help in cooling redness, blemishes and discolouration.
Simple’s Protect ‘n’ Glow Radiance Booster SPF 30 £3.99 at Boots.com This little pot of goodness claims to provide protection from blue light, pollutants and UV rays. When applied, it leaves a glow to the skin without feeling overly oily, making it a contender for all skin types. It is also suitable for sensitive skin types due to Simple’s ethos of using
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Loved by the likes of model Ashley Graham, this no parabens, no fragrance,cruelty free, universal skin protector sits at a higher price point but with celebrities praising its formula, it may be a winner for your skin.
LONDON RUNWAY
FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD Up to 90% of the Vitamin D that your body needs to support healthy skin, teeth and bones can be absorbed naturally by the sun, but recent studies show that three-quarters of the British population have inadequate levels! If the sun can’t be accessed on a daily basis (calling all Brits) there are certain foods that can be introduced into your diet which can provide that all important dose of Vitamin D. Fish and eggs are healthy options, and those who are vegan need not despair as mushrooms, fortified orange juice and milks including soy, almond, and rice also provide the extra boost of vitamins. There is also the option of taking Vitamin D supplements.
SKINCARE
Sunlight can help with the process of curing skin troubles such as rashes and eczema leaving you with a healthy glow. But if you are worried about skin damage or you don’t have enough access to the sun, there are ways of adding vitamin D into your skincare routine for a topical dose of the Sunshine Vitamin. Topically, Vitamin D acts as an antioxidant that helps fight free radical damage, reduces oxidative stress to the skin, and wards off signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles. Find it in daily creams, serums and face masks - just keep an eye out for the ingredients list.
You can read more of Grace’s work on Twitter @pickford_grace
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LONDON RUNWAY
OTHERS
PURE LONDON BRANDS RUNWAY Photography by Rabi Sultan
DIFF
AGRA JAIN
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LONDON RUNWAY
FLARE STREET
AQUA AND ROCK
RUPERT AND BUCKLEY
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LONDON RUNWAY
LIENA
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LONDON RUNWAY
MATTHEW O BRIEN
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LONDON RUNWAY
SAINT GENIES
URBAN BLISS
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LONDON RUNWAY
PURE LONDON BACKSTAGE
Photography by Rabi Sultan
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LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
FACE OF FINALISTS Rhiannon D’Averc introduces the finalists for the Face of London Runway 2020 – and how we reached this point. After a long journey of virtual sessions, we were finally able to get together in person to shoot our final round of this year’s Face of London Runway competition. We had to change up our schedule and rounds thanks to the lockdown – while last year’s competition was all conducted in person, we met our entrants on Zoom before the shoot. Here’s how it all happened: - An entry form appeared on our website, allowing entrants to submit photographs, videos, and their essential details. In our first round, we had over 250 applicants! - We narrowed this list down to just 70 people to go ahead to our virtual round. In Zoom calls of up to 10 models, Rhiannon and Maxine Griffiths met all of our entrants, asked them some questions about their modelling experience and goals, and put them through their paces with a virtual walk at home - It was brutal to try to cut down the list, but we made it – just 30 of the models were invited to our photoshoot in Harringay. At the Pavilion in Bruce Castle Park, we set up a shooting area that was distanced from other parkgoers and, kitted out in masks, three London Runway photographers (Rhiannon, Fil Mazzarino, and Mrityunjoy Mitra) snapped the final shots. We wanted to challenge the models in all areas, so we asked each of them to complete specific tasks. With 30 models to test, you can bet it was a hectic day!
Each model was asked to pose straighton to the camera, then while looking slightly over their shoulder, in a black and white outfit. Next they donned colours for a celebratory pose and then while handling a prop – a fake flower picked out to go with the outfit they were wearing. Next, they were turned over to other photographers for some free-choice posing and directing so we could get a feel for how they work with different styles. After everyone had taken part in their initial shots, Maxine had everyone walk for her again – this time in person and with the ability to see everything live and in sharp focus! We then took the whole group for some quick-fire posing: first in groups of three, then as a whole group. You can see some of those shots on our Instagram stories! It was a fun day with a lot of great work put in, but when it came down to the wire, we had to make some extremely difficult choices. There are some very talented models in this group, but only ten of them could make it through to the final round. Wait, did we say ten? Whoops - we couldn't force ourselves to cut it by that much! In the end, the only decision that suited all the judges was to include twelve people in our top selection - six on each side of the competition. In no particular order, they are… Womenswear Precious Oni India Coyle Kemi Adefolalu Hannah Subit Hannah Lewis Faye Tamsin
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Menswear Marcolino Aniel Saulius Sungis Orpheus Sloma Devon Thelanderson-Smith Samuel Varley Akram Arshad So, what happens next? You can see the final images for our top ten finalists over the coming pages. You’ll also find them on Instagram and Facebook, posted individually. We’ll be opening the vote to you, members of the public and our readers, to hit ‘like’ on the finalist that you’d love to see win. We’ll choose one womenswear winner and one menswear winner, with two runners-up in each category, based on a combination of your votes with our judging scores. And we can tell you, it’s all very tight – there’s a lot to play for here! The vote will close on the 10th August and you’ll be able to meet the winners in our next issue! They’ll be getting an exclusive cover shoot with us, help with their modelling career over the next year, and invaluable advice from Maxine via The Model Workshops to allow them to develop their skills. Over the coming days and weeks, be sure to check up on @pcistudio, @filmazzarino, and @the_mj_studio to see more of the stunning shots which we couldn’t possibly fit in these pages. And don’t forget to check out @mg_creative_catwalk to see what our judge Maxine is up to! Finally, a special thank you to @tonthegreen for their space.
DEVON THELANDERSON-SMITH
FAYE TAMSIN
ORPHEUS SLOMA
PRECIOUS ONI
AKRAM ARSHAD
HANNAH LEWIS
SAMUEL VARLEY
KEMI ADEFOLALU
MARCOLINO ANIEL
HANNAH SUBIT
SAULIUS SUNGIS
INDIA COYLE
Behind the scenes
Enjoy exploring some of the posing challenges we gave to our semifinalists! Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
Face of London Runway 2020 semi-final by Mrityunjoy Mitra We had three London Runway photographers at the shoot capturing away. Here's our selection of the best...
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LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
Face of London Runway 2020 semi-final by Fil Mazzarino Our semi-finalists were: Alison Monteith, Allyson Thomas, Annie Apakoh, Arlette Minnock, Bonnie Gonzalez, Catrin Stace Jones, Clare O'Reilly, Francesca Fleur, Karine Lopes, Lucy and Laura Dethier, Manjinder Singh, Osman Osman, Raphael Meade, and Richard Clevedon Smith
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LONDON RUNWAY
IS RECYCLED PLASTIC CLOTHING ACTUALLY GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT? With our oceans drowning in discarded plastic and environmental crises on the rise, Madisen Crandall discusses the efforts of those in the fashion industry to recycle plastic into clothing and whether those efforts are doing more harm than good. Bags to rags: the unofficial slogan for recycled plastic clothing. But could methods used by the fashion industry to cultivate such recycling actually be doing more harm than good? According to recent studies, microfibers which are produced as a result of washing synthetic textiles are actually responsible for a vast majority of the plastic particles found in our ocean system. And with the deep blue tide already choking on a myriad of discarded material, the efforts of those to reduce such waste need to be not only well-intended but also wellinformed.
Some bold, eco-conscious designers which you may have heard of include Pharrell Williams and his collection with G-Star Raw, Adidas in partnership with Parley for the Oceans, and Outerknown - launched by Kelly Slater. These designers, in conjunction with a long list of others, aim to recycle plastic waste found in the ocean into fashionforward, trend-setting items. And while their efforts are admirable, there is certainly something to be said of their contribution to the plastic plague of our planet's waters, however unintentional. Dr. Mark Browne, founder of Benign by Design, a research project centered around the tiny plastic particles discarded by wash cycles, indicated the project's intentions to eliminate the harmful byproducts of certain recycled textiles. His findings were met with much opposition from many within the industry. Companies which refused research include Nike, Patagonia, and Polartec, all of which suggested that Browne’s studies were “too preliminary” to support company action. Some action, however, has been taken by certain companies upon Browne’s advice. Studio Swine, a design house based out of London, featured their innovative furniture designs at London's Selfridges department store.
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Owing to the nature of their designs, Studio Swine is credited for their contributive solution regarding the use of recycled plastic materials. Other companies have followed suit, producing entire lines of recycled plastic goods that do not require the use of a washing cycle. These products range from lampshades to earrings and are certainly one step toward a better future for humans and our planet alike. Other prospective solutions include the installation of particle catching vents in washing machines. Though less feasible than alternative propositions, an industry-wide regulation requiring all new washing machine designs to come preinstalled with said filtration systems could be the most cost-effective solution to the plastic particle issue. In addition to its economic benefits, however, the installation of filtration systems on washing machines already on the market and in the homes of consumers becomes a near-impossible feat. One that, even if pursued, would take precious years to enforce that our ocean simply does not have. For reference, researchers estimate there to be anywhere from a few thousand to ten million plastic particles in a single load of laundry. Multiply this by the average number of loads of laundry a single person does in a year and the
LONDON RUNWAY
number quickly becomes astronomical. And that is just for one person. Consider the over 2.6 billion washing machines sold in the UK per year and it becomes a miracle that the entirety of the ocean is not made of plastic. There are over 500 trillion plastic pieces weighing over 250,000 tons afloat in the ocean today. When these numbers are broken down, the amount of plastic contributed per person across the world is over 700 pieces per year. This waste is negatively impacting the health of our planet's waters, killing wildlife, and slowly chipping away at the entirety of our ecosystem. Â The scariest part is that much of this damage cannot be seen by the naked eye. The most impacted part of our ocean system vastly consists of microorganisms. The plastic particles produced by recycled textiles easily consume this highly vulnerable system, killing enormous amounts of organisms every day. This miniature war has massive consequences on the much larger lifeforms that abide in our seas. When even the smallest life-giving nutrient dies from pollution, a continual trickle occurs in the entirety of the food chain essential to the health of the ocean system. A chain which, believe it or not, we depend on every single day of our lives. It is easy to place the issues of our oceans thousands of miles off the coast
where the water runs the deepest. All too understandable to assume that much smarter and more informed people in white lab coats are out there solving our planet's issues. And while many intelligent people are actively working on solutions to the myriad of environmental crises we currently face, it is important to be aware of the significant impacts we can make individually regarding such issues. No one person can completely eliminate their contribution of plastic fibres, but there are ways to significantly reduce it. Arguably the most cost-effective but equally time-consuming way is to hand wash synthetic clothing. The gentle nature of traditional handwashing versus a washing machine limits the
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amount of plastic waste from a single load of laundry, which on a larger scale is an invaluable contribution in and of itself. Some environmentally conscious people have found success in reducing their plastic fibre contribution simply by switching to a liquid laundry detergent. Powdered detergents tend to agitate the synthetic fabric more, resulting in smaller and more numerous plastic fibers per load. Alternative washing machines with preinstalled filtration systems are on the market for those willing to invest in reducing their contribution, and some studies have shown that front loading washing machines produce fewer plastic fibres per load than top loading machines.
LONDON RUNWAY
By far, the easiest way to reduce one's plastic fibre pollution is an individual awareness for the very material clothing is made of. Armed with this information, it is easy to then make educated decisions about which companies to support and purchase from. Avoid companies and brands which notably produce cheaper synthetic clothing. Maintain distance from fast fashion clothing stores and online platforms, these clothes are likely to have been made quickly to match a trend and with highly pollutant fabrics. When in doubt, it is best to purchase clothing made from natural material such as cotton, wool, or linen; such information can be easily found on the tags of most clothing brands. In addition to any of these options, you may also find success in conservation efforts by reaching beyond your closet. Consider companies with environmentally conscious goals which you can help advertise and encourage others to patronise. If there are businesses which you frequent whose efforts aren’t currently engaged in the environmental conversation, you can always write letters, begin campaigns, and petition for change. Share this article with others. Do your research and be prepared to relay your findings to those within your social circles. Start conversations about environmental issues like microfiber pollution. Generate a sense of urgency within your household regarding these issues and if you are already making efforts to conserve, review them and find out ways which you can do better. Remember that any contribution is a large contribution both when adding to plastic pollution as well as in attempting to limit it. In other words, the more we are aware of how we impact the environment the more we will be able to help it. And with our ocean begging for our help, now is the time to not only reduce, reuse, and recycle – but, more importantly, rethink, review, and refine our methods of doing so. You can read more of Madisen’s work by following her blog at madiethewriter.blogspot.com. Images via Unsplash
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LONDON RUNWAY VIRTUAL FESTIVAL NOW STREAMING ON IGTV Did you miss it? Between the 13th and the 19th of July, we held a special virtual festival of entertainment on our social media channels for you! You can still watch the videos on our IGTV @londonrunwaymag. What can you expect? Here are just a few things you can look forward to... Live talks with industry insiders Music performance Inside look at our team and processes And more... Keep an eye on our Instagram @londonrunwaymag for our next big live event - we've got talks and performances planned for the future, and you won't want to miss them!
NEW FACE Name: RAZAFINDRAKOTO Andraina Age: 23 Location: Antananarivo, Madagascar Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I've been modelling since 3 years Where are you from originally? I'm from Madagascar Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Cooking, running are my usual talents lol
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What would surprise people to know about you? I'm someone determinated, little shy, stubborn and obstinate. But I can focus on something until I reach my purpose What are your modelling ambitions? I would like to work in the fashion industry, join a worldwide agency
Photographer: Dylane Cabano @dylanecabano Model: Andraina Razafindrakoto @andraina_r
NEW FACE Name: Asuna Yuriko Age: 19 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I have been modeling for 2 years. Where are you from originally? I was born and raised in Calgary, but have a lineage of Chinese, French, German, Russian, and a little Swiss. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? As a silly little talent I am able to touch my nose with my tongue. What would surprise people to know about you? Most people don't know that I
wander into many of my hobbies quite literally. Take modeling for example, I walked into a private event and when they asked if I was there to model I had to say yes. What are your modelling ambitions? My ambitions are ever growing. I want to keep pushing the bounds of how far I can take my modeling career. First step was getting into this magazine, maybe next will be more, or some well known runway show. The possibilities are endless and I do not plan to limit myself by getting stuck in a single ambition. I wish to continue saying "yes" to the opportunities that are presented to me and chase down some additional ones as well.
Photographer: Hunter Wong @random_thingzsz Model: Asuna Yuriko @asuna_yuriko Asuna wears: Pants - Noisy May; Shoes Vivienne Westwood
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NEW FACE Name: Carrie Neilson Age: 20 Location: Exeter Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? One and a half years Where are you from originally? Hong Kong Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Yes, speaking in accents when doing acting work.
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What would surprise people to know about you? I have no piercings What are your modelling ambitions? To build up a strong enough portfolio and send my portfolio off to a racially inclusive agency like BAME in London
Photographer: Emily Appleton @appletoneventphotography Model: Carrie Neilson @carrie_n1609
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NEW MEDIA ART
My art is almost always focused on women, and this series isn’t an exception. It is a bit dark, but my excuse is the time we live in. Lots of things are going on this year. This is a very worrying time. We don’t want to be manipulated by anyone, but at the same time we don’t want to be an ignorant person. We want to follow the good. We need some balance. My series reflects the situation, when we are losing balance.
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Fine Artist: Galya Kerns @horsewoman_of_apocalypse
Krista wears: Dress and Hat - H&M
Journey to Ephesus Model: Krista Strelkova @krista_strelkova Photographer: Lil Safonova @lilphotographer.ru
Krista wears: Dress - Mango
Krista wears: Dress - For Love
Krista wears: Dress - Mango
Krista wears: Dress - Weekend; Bag - Lady
Krista wears: Dress - For Love
Krista wears: Dress and Hat - H&M
GOLDEN SUNSHINE BY VIVIENNE MONIQUE Photographer: Ram Eagle @ram.eagle Wardrobe Stylist: Le Thi Hoang Nga, Ninah Aguila @ninyaguila Fashion Designer: Dac Ngoc Designer House @dacngoc Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Dani Geddes @danigeddes Model: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique Lê Trần Đắc Ngọc is an international fashion designer based in Hanoi, Vietnam and this golden dress for Vivienne Monique is one of his sophisticated designs for Spring/Summer 2020 as featured in Vietnam International Fashion Week.
INTERVIEW: MANIMEKALA This issue, Grace Pickford interviews Manimekala Fuller, a fashion designer striving to make positive change through her work, empowering those involved with her brand as well as those who wear her designs. Manimekala Fuller is a London-based designer whose self-named brand Manimekala strives to do good, be good, and make good. Aiming to bring people and crafts together from all over the world, Manimekala is passionate about people, their stories, and creating sustainable clothing that reflects the multi-faceted nature of culture, art and fashion. We had the opportunity to grab some insight from Manimekala Fuller about her influences, inspirations, and current online collection, ‘Zero Waste’. On how her heritage has influenced her designs: “I am British-Indian. My mother’s side of the family is Indian, and my father’s side is British. I grew up in the UK, but I have always been surrounded by Indian culture. There’s a lot of textile history there.
It’s brightness, it’s bright colours, it’s smells, it’s just liveliness. It’s such a huge country and each area of India is known for a specific craft. Even within textiles, there is a specific type of weaving in this area, a specific colour of dye that they like in another area - there’s just so much richness. I’ve always been surrounded by that growing up. All the women on my Mum’s side of the family know how to sew. Everybody embroiders, draws, paints, and even though I grew up here, our whole house has always been filled with Indian craft and painting and fabrics, bedspreads, clothes everything. It’s just so different to what you find here in the UK.
to reinterpret those within my own aesthetic.
I grew up connected with the culture, particularly through craft. As I got older, I learnt more about the variations within the different cultures in India, I just wanted to explore that. There are so many ancient traditional techniques that are slowly dying out because people are not learning about the craft and not appreciating it. I really want to be able to tap into that knowledge and skill and bring it to a wider audience, but also modernise it. There are many brands that work with very traditional techniques which is amazing, but I want
“It's incredibly important, it's one of the founding principles of my brand. The funny thing is when I was studying (I graduated two years ago), we were never taught about sustainability, it was not something that we considered, it wasn’t really a conversation. Sustainability wasn’t as big of a topic as it is right now. It was only after I graduated, and I was preparing for my brand that I really questioned myself: ‘What do I want my work to be? What do I want my brand and my name to stand for? What is the impact that I want
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Even in India my style is considered different because it is very colourful, but it's also a different colour palette. There’s a very typical British colour palette and a typical Indian colour palette and what I try to do is merge them to create something new and different but that still incorporates both and tells the stories of both sides and the influences that come together in my designs.” On the importance of sustainability and community:
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to have?’ That's when I realised that I want to have a positive impact overall. My passion is in creating fashion, creating clothing and beautiful designs, but that's not really enough in today's world. I wanted to make sure that I would be putting more good into the world through that work, not just environmentally but the ethical side of it too. Fashion is such a hidden industry in many ways. A lot of people just don't realise. And that’s why I think it’s so important to share these stories because once a customer or consumer realises that there are people, and faces, and actual real lives behind these products then they will appreciate it and start to question things.” On working with the women’s collective Saheli Women, a non-profit that is a part of the larger charity, The Institute for Philanthropy and Humanitarian Development based in Jodhpur, India: “They work on a number of different programmes all focused around sustainable rural development, specifically women. They sponsor girl’s education, female health clinics, and they run Saheli Women which is a fashion social enterprise manufacturer. They train local village women in sewing and embroidery skills and then employ them. Saheli Women partners with more international fashion brands such as Manimekala and produces fashion and they've also recently started with accessories. The fact that these ladies are able to come into the centre to train, to learn, to socialise with each other, to earn their own income and to become financially and socially independent - it's absolutely amazing.”
On past collections that have exuded imagination and creativity, combining psychology, dreams, and history into cacophonies of colours and materials: “I always wonder if people will understand [laughs]. I guess I kind of see my creative process as like an experimental kitchen, I'm just always gathering information and ideas, and looking at art. I sort of collect images and feelings and then let them swirl around in my mind for a while and it just organically comes together into a theme. My collections are always very multilayered, there's always 20 different influences that go into one piece and what I find really exciting is the way that those influences interact with each other. I experiment with that visually as well, I start with a drawing and then scan it in, and then manipulate it, and then put marble on top of it, I just keep trying out different processes and different ways of combining them and that always leads to something new. So, for me it's very much collecting visions and then experimenting with them. I also feel like I don't choose the print or the colour, it chooses me. I'll explore and experiment and there's always a moment when it all comes together and looks right. And then I work backwards to figure out what it was that influenced this: ‘Where did this image in my head come from?’ And I will realise: ‘I saw that sculpture, or I watched this film, and this inspired me’. It’s very circular: inspiration keeps feeding in and evolving. It's a very intuitive and exciting way to work for me.” On Manimekala’s latest online collection, Zero Waste, and the focus on accessories, from silk eye masks to bags and scrunchies: “I have done accessories before -
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when I create a collection, I often create accessories alongside of it, sometimes just for styling a photoshoot. Usually it is leftover bits from the clothes. But I've been working hard on that because it is something that customers really like they like the accessibility because it's still very much in the Manimekala world with my prints and my fabrics but it's something that is more wearable then a full dress, for someone not as bold in terms of colour. Also because of the lockdown, all of the plans were disrupted. Accessories were going to be done alongside the upcoming clothing collection, but I had to juggle the dates around a bit.” Zero Waste heavily features silk fabric, is this your favourite material to work with, or is this specific to the latest collection? “I use a lot of silk and a lot of cotton because they are both very popular traditional fabrics. My absolute favourite is a blend of silk and cotton because then you get the benefits of both. The Zero Waste collection that is currently online, that’s all made from leftover materials from my very first collections.”
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What are your aspirations for your brand moving forwards? “I would love to grow and be able to partner with more similar organisations like Saheli Women. At the moment we work with them for embroidery and sewing but obviously print is a huge part of my designs and I know a couple of similar social enterprises that work in printing or weaving or dyeing. I would love for the brand to grow big enough to be able to partner with more people and to be able to explore different techniques, not just in India - I would love to go global and work with weavers in Kenya or knitters in Lithuania. I want Manimekala to be known for beautiful fashion, but beautiful fashion that does good. Bringing women together all across the world.” On advice for people who are entering the world of design and fashion and dream of following a similar path, and facing obstacles: “So many obstacles! My main piece of advice would be to find what you’re really passionate about. I’m really passionate about doing good with my work. But more specifically, print. I love print, I'm obsessed with print, I think about it 24/7! That is what I want to do. I think there are so many fashion brands out there and a lot of them are doing really amazing things, but you've got to find that thing that makes your brand or your idea stand out. No one else is going to believe in it if you don't believe in it yourself. That’s the number one thing: find your niche.”
You can read more of Grace’s work on Twitter @pickford_grace. Follow Manimekala at @manimekalavf
All images are via Manimekala
THE FLOWER GARDEN
Model: Vera Camplese @pretty_tall_gremlin Photographer: Camilla Calato @camart___ All wardrobe: La Stazione by Sophie Stique @lastazionebysophiestique
AZTECA DESTRUCTION Photographer: David La Pietra @davidlapietraphotography Model: Andrea Ferrazza @_andreea.f Makeup Artist: Giulia Fortini @giuliafortini_10 Andrea wears: Bra - Intimissimi; Leather Jacket - Voyelles; Necklace, Bracelet - Uno de 50; Shorts - H&M
Andrea wears: Bra - Intimissimi; Leather Jacket - Voyelles; Necklace - Uno de 50
Andrea wears: Bra - Intimissimi; Necklace - Uno de 50; Shorts - H&M
Andrea wears: Bra - Intimissimi; Necklace - Uno de 50; Shorts - H&M
Andrea wears: Bra - Intimissimi; Earrings - Uno de 50
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE
Bast - Black NEON HOPE £150.00
ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc Alma Rosa Flip Flop In Pinks & Reds SUSANA MADRID £150.00
Swim Shorts in Gold Stripe SOUTH BEACH £20.00
Stripe Swimsuit SARAH AND SORRENTINO £45.00
Men's Vision Sandals TERRA NOVA £60.00
Bikini Ipanema DEAR OCEAN £70.00 Eagle Logo Contrast Waistband Swim Briefs in Navy EMPORIO ARMANI £41.00
Straw Handbag INTROVERT £20
Quilted White Sliders KOI FOOTWEAR £30.00
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Co-ord in Colour Block ASOS DESIGN £14 Each
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HOW YOUR FASHION MOMENTS CAN AFFECT YOUR EMOTIONS In this article, positive psychology expert Hazal Aktan explores the relationship between self-expression, sustainability, and positive emotions through fashion. Whether it’s using a fashion-forward accessory or shopping the latest look from the runway, joy can be found in both clothes and accessories. Happiness can come from both clothes and sunshine - after all, that is what July is all about. The representation of the authentic self and brand identity are the two essentials for fashion items to serve as positive reinforcement. Famous philosopher/psychologist William James placed a remarkable emphasis on clothing. For him, clothes have a self-expressive aspect on your
spiritual and social selves. As James puts it: “The old saying that the human person is composed of three parts soul, body, clothes - is more than a joke. We so appropriate our clothes and identify ourselves with them”. Each season there are new opportunities to find representative clothes and brands that make your authentic self thrive. Summer is a time that calls out for joyful fashion moments. It is a chance to explore and experiment both with fashion and with your identity.
Fashion, self- expression, and joy Patricia Field, the hero behind all of Carrie Bradshaw’s iconic looks on Sex
and the City, draws attention to the relationship between clothes and one’s identity with her words of wisdom: “Style has become very important, the whole idea of style, what your style is. It’s your identity.” Highlighting the relationship between emotions and clothes, Field states that the Versace gown Carrie wore for the final episode of the TV series amplified the emotions of the scene. The joy of summer warmth can come in tropical prints as seen on the Versace Spring/Summer 2020 runway as well as at Valentino, Dries
Van Noten, and Marni. When it comes to more simple occasions like daily grocery shopping, a colourful tote bag can brighten up your day. One of the wardrobe essentials of this season is undoubtedly blazers! They have magic power, serving as a confidence booster for every occasion and fitting every dress code. Whether you are attending an evening event with a blazer and a cocktail dress, or a more casual look with a cool denim and blazer combination, it’s the perfect way to cover up on warm days. If you want to express yourself through sexiness, you can show a bit of a neckline with an elegant bra under the blazer. If you want to express your feminine side, why not reveal some skin with a sheer lace dress? After all, this is the era of body confidence. The creative director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, presented dramatic sexy looks on the Spring/Summer 2020 Gucci runway. The collection is based on the idea of the liberation of provocative details, and is called ‘Gucci Orgasmique’. The brand presents the collection as “fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities,… and celebrate the self in expression and identity”. Big brands are encouraging selfexpression and authenticity, which can be so empowering. If you see a way to express yourself with sheer lace dresses as seen on the runway, go on and be bold. From a positive psychology perspective, the science of happiness and well-being states that when you are able to reflect your authentic self you will naturally flourish. Authenticity is the new cool! Take Jameela Jamil, on the red carpet for the Critics’ Choice awards with her chunky boots under a dramatic Oscar de la Renta gown. Jamil was confident and blooming on that red carpet because she was being real and feeling comfortable.
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Sometimes authenticity might mean wearing boots with a gown on the red carpet. As Taylor Swift puts it on her Netflix document Miss Americana: “You can wear pink and talk about politics”. The point is acting out your authentic self in the ways that feel right to you. Happiness through caring For the modern-day fashionista, the dream dress by itself might not be enough to create positive emotions. The fashion industry is changing its attitude and the brands who can keep up with these changes are on demand. In 2018, research by Common Objective reported that, for the past 5 years, Google searches for “ethical fashion” have increased by 25% and searches for “sustainable fashion” by 46%. Many brands are relying on positive branding strategies now more than ever. Though these concepts are becoming the new cool, their popularity is not limited to being trendy. Individuals seek brands that are more representative and have eco-friendly strategies since it makes them feel heard and cared about. Identifying with the brands that are sensitive to the climate crisis will make people experience more positive emotions too. One of the greenest shows was presented by Stella McCartney, a pioneer for sustainability in fashion. More than 75% of the pieces were eco-friendly on the Spring/Summer 2020 Stella McCartney runway. Following their announcement about going carbon neutral for its production, Gucci created a sustainable catwalk for the Spring/Summer 2020 show. 70% of the set was made from recycled and reused materials; showing care to mother earth, thus, showing care to people who live on earth.
LONDON RUNWAY Additionally, Vivienne Westwood made a statement for sustainability by using unsold fabrics for half of the collection on her Spring/Summer 2020 runway. Actress Jane Fonda, famously known for her activism, knows how to make a powerful fashion statement. For the 92nd Academy Awards, she made an environmentally conscious choice by wearing a red gown by Ellie Saab again, after wearing the same dress 6 years ago at the 67th Cannes Film Festival. She was also conscious in her choice of jewellery as she picked ethically harvested gold and sustainable diamonds by Pomellato for her red carpet look. Once again, she looked stunning with her dress on the red carpet, showing us that it is possible to put a fashion item on, look good, and make your soul feel good about it too. Clothes can be empowering when we let them reflect our identity properly. Everyone has their fashion moments, so this season, be bold, go for it, and create your own fashion moment. Put your favourite summer clothes on, find the brands you resonate with and keep on flourishing, thriving as the sun shines during July – even if you’re just at home. You can read more of Hazal’s work via her instagram @artoflifeco_ and on hazalaktan.com. Illustrations by Ben Springham based on catwalk collections by Versace, Balmain, and Christian Cowan from S/20. Photo by Evgenij918
SUNSOAKED Model: Aajah Harris @Aajah_h Photographer: e. Andrew Murray @eandrewmurray Retoucher: Elena Gr @retoucher_elena
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WHO ARE YOU? The Colours in Your Wardrobe Tell All Cheyanne Greig-Andrews investigates the fascinating world of your wardrobe! Find out what the colours you wear say about you and how to utilize colourful ensembles for your ultimate success. Colour is one of those things that is easily taken for granted. How often do we think about how colours affect us, especially when we wear them? Your profession, family, and possibly your favourite celebrities can influence what ends up in your wardrobe. Kassia St. Clair, author ofThe Secret Lives of Colour, observes that “a certain distaste of colour runs through western culture like a ladder in a stocking”. Contradictory to this apparent fear of colour in western wardrobes, she goes on to state that colour is also “fundamental to our experience of the world”, which I think everyone can agree with. The colours in your wardrobe can reveal insights into your personality, your current stage of life, and even your strengths and weaknesses. The colours you wear also send strong subconscious messages to the people you interact with, giving them a certain impression of you. But what is colour? And why should it matter when getting dressed in the morning? Scientifically speaking, the colours we see are simply visible light. Higher frequencies of light show up as blue, while lower frequencies appear redder. Each colour will feel energetically different, whether we are aware of it or not. Instead of asking yourself what colour to wear, you could start asking what light frequency should I wear?
On a more esoteric level, chakras, Chinese numerology, auras and other modalities can serve as tools to understand what the colours in your wardrobe might be saying about you. This way of thinking is not for everyone, but taking everything into account it is possible to see how wearing certain colours send a message to the world, and to yourself. Knowing what colours represent, and the energy they carry, can help you to cater your wardrobe for your ultimate success and wellbeing... So, shall we take a peek in your wardrobe?
RED The colour red demands attention. Associated with power, security, passion, and energy, like the vigour of a blazing fire. If you have a lot of red in your wardrobe, you may be quite confident in your talents and recognized for them. At your next job interview, public speaking gig, or anywhere you want to stand out as a strong force, throw on something red, even if it’s just that ruby lipstick!
PINK A very recent colour and hardly deserving of a colour category on its own. Pink is a softer red and therefore carries a lot of the same energy as red but in subtler ways. Like the rosy hue of pink quartz, pink is emblematic of the romantic love connection. If you have a lot of pink in your wardrobe you are probably quite loving, generous, receptive, and enjoy connecting with people. Wearing pink is very inviting and comforting ideal if you are on a date with your long-term partner
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or needing to be a bit softer in your approach to life.
ORANGE Orange, a bold colour choice in any wardrobe. Orange has strong political and social significance connected to Dutch heritage, orange prison jumpsuits, and of course one of the world's most successful luxury brands, Hermés. If you find yourself attracted to orange clothing, you may be quite creative, artistic, have strong leadership qualities, and an air of sexappeal. “There is no doubt that orange has a confidence to it,” St. Clair asserts. Wearing orange is a great choice to enhance your confidence and creativity, just be careful not to turn into a pumpkin!
YELLOW
BLUE
BROWN
Many have mixed feelings about wearing yellow. If you are partial to a yellow ensemble you are probably quite confident in yourself with a sort of ‘haters gonna hate’ attitude to life. Linked to personal power and selfknowledge, increasing yellow in your wardrobe can enhance these qualities. Psychologically, yellow is the happiest colour on the spectrum, so it’s a great colour to wear to parties, or if you need a bit more optimism.
The sea, sky, and some people's eyes are endowed with varying shades of blue. Despite this, blue is very difficult to replicate and hard to find in nature, endowing it with a mystical quality. Blue represents flexibility and the ability to roll with the punches. Wearing blue can make you more adaptable, calm under pressure, receptive, and trusting. A great colour to wear if you are in a transition period, moving homes, or changing career paths. Blue will help you let go of a rigid outlook and be a bit more flexible to adjust to such changes with ease. Simultaneously, it will have a lovely calming effect to everyone around you.
A big leap from the vibrancy of purple, but since brown is a relatively common colour in people's wardrobes (especially shoes) it is worth mentioning. Brown is associated with the earth and therefore has strong grounding qualities. If you find yourself wearing varying shades of brown and other earthy hues you are probably quite solid, conservative, friendly, and balanced. Wearing brown can help increase these qualities in yourself and send the message to others that you are a solid and reliable force.
PURPLE
BLACK
Undoubtedly a striking colour, around the world purple is “the symbolic colour of opulence” according to St. Clair. Purple in almost all modalities and cultures represents wealth, luxury, power, and prosperity. Purple is also associated with psychic abilities and even magical qualities.If you are asking for a raise, needing to connect to your intuition, or buying stocks for the first time, you might as well throw on some purple. Plus, it has the added bonus of making any wearer feel regal!
Possibly the most common colour in western wardrobes, popular amongst Goths and business folk alike. Black absorbs all visible light and has protective qualities. Apparently, witches wore black not to resemble dark forces, but because it attracts light. Black holds a lot of mystery and is therefore an excellent colour if you are trying not to give too much away or if you are entering a potentially vulnerable situation where you want safeguarding.
GREEN Trees, grass, nature; green is all around us in seemingly infinite shades. Green is associated with relaxation, harmony, and love (non-romantic). If you find yourself wearing green regularly, or are attracted to emerald green, you may be quite open heart towards people and have a calm, familial presence to you. If you experience anxiety and chest tightness, wearing green can help alleviate that internal tension. Green is a great colour to wear if you are a teacher, a parent, a therapist, or anyone in a situation where they want to come across as more nurturing and less domineering.
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GREY Neither black nor white, grey is a common shade in the corporate world. An inoffensive and adaptable piece to any wardrobe, grey has a metallic quality to it which can make you come across as quite sharp, great if you’re a lawyer. There is an energy to grey without being overpowering, it is a great colour for work, but not so much for play.
WHITE Crisp linen, the bridal gown, the essential white T-shirt, there is something about wearing white that always feels fresh and powerful. White has spiritual and transcendent associations, probably because it feels otherworldly in pureness. There is an energetic quality to white that when worn will literally light you up. Wearing white can give you a positive boost in energy and make you feel unstoppable, a great choice for any wardrobe. Whether you are looking for a promotion, a rejuvenating getaway, to make a good impression, or just wanting to feel a bit more playful, catering the colours in your wardrobe to suit your lifestyle can allow you to feel authentic and radiant every day of the week! Did you enjoy this article? Find more of Cheyanne’s work by connecting with her on Instagram @thelondonhippie Photographs via Pixabay
SUMMER GLOW Model: Parel Thijs @pearls_vibe Makeup Artist: Saskia Conings @saskia.makeup Photographer: Lisa Viola @viola.visuals Wardrobe: Model's own, except where stated
Parel wears: Swimsuit - Missguided
Parel wears: Swimsuit - Missguided
Parel wears: Body - Pull&Bear
Parel wears: Body - Pull&Bear
Parel wears: Body - Bershka
Parel wears: Body - Bershka
INTERVIEW For this issue, Maria Henry interviews Laura Johnson, co-founder of inclusive modelling agency Zebedee.
This month, following on from our livestream talk with Samanta Bullock on the importance of representation during the London Runway Virtual Festival, I had the pleasure of talking to one of the co-founders of Zebedee, Laura Johnson. Founded in 2017 by Laura and her sister-in-law Zoe Proctor, Zebedee is an inclusive talent agency which has aims of bringing people with disabilities and alternative appearances to the forefront of the fashion industry. I sat down with Laura to discuss how the agency began and what she hopes the future of the fashion industry will look like.
Where did the idea of Zebedee come from? The agency was co-founded between myself and my sister-in-law Zoe. I went to see her one day and we were essentially just having a chat, putting the world to rights and talking about the lack of disabled people and lack of representation in fashion and advertising and how it was so rubbish! We couldn’t believe that in the 21st century this lack of representation was still seen as acceptable. We were just having a general conversation about this and somehow got into discussing if there were even any agencies representing people with disabilities because we didn’t think that there were. We just started to think that if there’s no agents, how are they even getting in front of clients with opportunities for casting? It sounds cheesy, but it was a lightbulb moment, we started to think “should we set up an agency?” and by the end of our walk we had decided this is what we were going to do! We were brimming with ideas and enthusiasm and we got home and started setting up right away.
We set up a business, we started making contacts, we started emailing and making calls. We started this in March 2017 and by September 2017 we launched. We’d taken six months to try and build some contacts, get a model base sorted, get a website sorted, that sort of thing. We’ve just got busier and busier since then. How do you recruit models? It’s a bit of a mixture. Initially when we set up, we reached out to local disability groups. Organisations, disability press, that sort of thing. Just letting people know about us and we found that people started applying very very quickly. We had one article in one certain publication which was for the disabled community and we had around 1000 applications in a day from that. We also appeared on this This Morning and that created a massive influx of models applying. On some occasions we do scout. If we have a specific job from a client and we don’t have a model that is what they need, we’ll post on our social media what we need and see what replies we get.
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that truly are inclusive. Especially with the BLM movement, you can’t get away with not being representative in terms of diversity. Disability falls under that category too. Disabled people make up almost 20% of the population, yet they’re represented in only 0.06% of advertising. In terms of economic argument, the spending power of disabled people in in the UK is £349 billion a year. Worldwide that’s around $1.2 trillion a year. There’s something like £20 million a month on the high street that is not being accessed by disabled people because the high street isn’t catering to them in terms of representation and access. So, there is definitely an economic case for hiring models with disabilities. It’s great to see that there’s so many people who are seeking these opportunities, people who really want to get themselves out there and be seen! Exactly! They’ve never had the opportunity before. So, there was a load of people who, you know… had maybe dreamed that this could be an opportunity for them but had no resources to be able to do it. How accessible are most casting calls and fashion events? Do you think a lack of accessibility made it harder for disabled people to attend castings? I think before we existed, probably not. Obviously, we’re very careful about having accessible venues and when we’re liaising with clients, we’ll remind them to have accessible venues. But you know, London is London and a lot of places are just not accessible – they’re often like basement studios or lofts and they’re just not accessible. That being said, not all people with disabilities have mobility issues. If you really couldn’t arrange an accessible studio there are still models you could consider – so I wouldn’t let it be something that puts you off hiring a model with a disability.
On your Instagram you posted about the economic side of diversity within the fashion industry. You mentioned something called “perfection fatigue”, could you talk a little more about what this means? Perfection fatigue is where for such a long time the public and consumers have become used to seeing models with a very ‘perfect’ look. They have perfect airbrushed skin, are the 'perfect' size, and quite frankly, consumers are bored of that now and they see it so often that it doesn’t resonate with them at all. They’re just not interested in that image. There are two sides to it, there’s “perfection fatigue” which is where this one ideal is not of interest to the consumer and it doesn’t click their buttons in terms of making them want to buy the product. Then there’s also active rebellion against those images. People will see these images and decide to actively rebel against them, choosing not to feel an affinity with that brand or whatever they’re selling because it doesn’t reach them or represent them. So, by portraying this one ‘ideal’ look, brands are closing themselves off from a large demographic of potential buyers? Exactly. Consumers now want brands
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We argue that we know our models and beautiful and completely able of doing a great job, we know that it is the right thing to do and that we all need to think about our ethics and doing the morally correct thing when it comes to representation. However, in the long and short of it, this world is run by money and this is why we explain to people that there is an economic driving force behind inclusivity as well. It makes economic sense to be inclusive. Do you think that seeing people with disabilities being represented by big brands helps to reduce stigma around them and normalise them in the eyes of those who may have not been so inclusive in the past? Oh completely! This is our wider aim; we feel that representation is so important as it not only impacts the industry and our models directly, but it also impacts the wider society in terms of developing people’s awareness and understanding of disability and helping to normalise it. As I mentioned, disabled people make up 20% of the UK population, so there are disabled people walking around you – you just don’t see it in the media. The personal impact is also huge, all of our models have said that their selfesteem and feelings of self-worth
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improve massively from being represented. It is also helpful for parents of children with disabilities. Often, they’ve said that when they had their children it felt like a very lonely place. They didn’t see other children represented, unless you knew someone else with a disability, it wasn’t visible anywhere else - which could make them feel quite alone. So being able to see children with disabilities being represented doing what other children were doing, it would have made those early years a much nicer and less lonely experience
Remember Disability,when considering diversity. Often when brands are considering diversity, they forget to include disability in that, so remember that disability is included in diversity.
What do you think the fashion industry can do to make itself more accessible for people with disabilities?
Bring Disability to the Table, when working on creative briefs. Remember to include someone with a disability in certain roles.
I think people worry about the language that they’re using, and they worry about accessibility. First and foremost, don’t let that hold you back. In terms of language, people are usually happy if you try and get it wrong, rather than just excluding them all together. The same with accessibility, don’t let it hold you back, we live in a technology-filled world where other options are possible. Especially now with COVID-19 most castings are taking place over Zoom and Skype, so there’s no reason that you can’t find a way to work in an accessible studio or cast online. There’s always an easy solution and if you have any questions or worries you can always contact us, we’re happy to consult with any questions that you may have. We actually have four steps that we propose people take note of when casting, these are:
Invite Disabled People to Cast. Just invite them to cast! Try and meet people! Reach out to us so we can provide you with some suggestions. Just consider disabled people as options. If you Believe in Inclusive Casting, Share your Belief in it. Share it with your colleagues and peers and decision makers. We all need to work together to be a driving force for an inclusion revolution.
What do you think the fashion industry will look like in the future? Do you think that we’re making positive moves towards inclusivity now? I can only hope that things will get more inclusive. I know that year by year we get busier and busier. We’re only in our third year now but we’ve made lots of contacts and continue to get busier as we grow. It does seem like the industry is becoming more inclusive, but that being said, it is painfully slow. There are so many brands who just don’t have inclusivity on their radar and so many brands who will use disabled people as tokens. They’ll use one disabled model a year to show they’re ‘inclusive’ and that really isn’t acceptable. It’s difficult because we’ll say we’ll accept tokenism because it’s still an opportunity and we all have to start somewhere. Somebody has to be that first ‘token’ wheelchair user, amputee, person with Down syndrome… whatever it is, somebody has to be that first. However, you have to continue with that – consumers can read straight through it and this can lead to a backlash of people saying, “that’s just tokenism” and not representation, it’s just there to make you look inclusive and sell more products. It really needs to be a part of your company ethos, your brand, and your identity, to be inclusive. It’s similar with sustainable fashion, consumers are demanding true sustainability, just as in time consumers will demand true inclusivity. If you enjoyed reading this article you can find more of Maria’s work at @mariawriteshere on Twitter. If you’d like to find out more about Zebedee and the amazing work that they do you can find more info on their website at zebedeemanagement.co.uk. Photographs provided by Zebedee
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Manic Pixie
Dream Girl
Assistant: Enzo Alegria @Enzo_alegria Makeup Artist: Sara Iris @_sara_iris Wardrobe Stylist: Vaniars Moreira @Vaniarsmoreira Model: Izabella Viana @karacteragency Creative Director/Photographer: JosÊ Graça @josegracaphotography Izabella wears: Susana Bettencourt @subettencourt; Luis Onofre @luisonofreofficial; Telma Da @telma_Da; TEZENiS @tezenis; Zara @zara
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Hope and Glory
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Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra
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DESREE AND SABINA
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FOREVER DEVINE
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LAUREN SHANNON
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SEE SAW SIMONE
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TUNCER TONUN
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OUR FAVOURITE TRAVEL INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS Darcey Sergison takes a trip around the world from the comfort of her smartphone. Even though 2020 may not be the year of travel, it can still be the year of journeys. Journeys do not always require a physical presence at different destinations. Instagram allows us to travel vicariously through accounts that we follow with inspiring photography of beautiful and remote parts of the world. I have discovered many parts of the world and different cultural traditions through photography and information from travel bloggers whose first-hand experience demonstrates why we yearn to travel. I have curated a selection of my favourite travel accounts on Instagram so you too can travel this summer:
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@prior 50.7k followers This well-known travel community is built on the curiosity of travel. With submissions being featured with the use of #forthecurious, this account demonstrates the beauty of travel from multiple perspectives of travellers. From local food markets to temples, Prior covers every inch of the globe sharing the beauty of discovery.
@earthpix 16.8m followers
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Featuring stunning landscapes from Peru to Tahiti, this community features explorers and the road to an adventurous journey around the world. This colourful capture of different parts of the world will be sure to brighten up your feed on a rainy day.
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@doyoutravel 2.7m followers Jack Morris has captured his travels from the heights of Bangkok skyscrapers to the mountains of Switzerland. Currently exploring Bali, Jack has captured the beautiful beaches as well as travelling the deeper jungles. Even in isolation Jack has used his time in Bali to explore the culture and this is something every traveller should aspire to do.
@wearetravelgirls 433k followers Ideal for solo women travellers, the ethos of @wearetravelgirls is to provide informative content about different destinations around the world. From providing basic knowledge and ideas of what to do while in different cities to top tips on where to stay, this will equip any solo traveller with the perfect insight into different destinations before you even set foot there.
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@prettylittlelondon 521k followers This account is sure to inspire any Londoner to get to know even more nooks and crannies of your city. Use this account to take a trip around your (and our) favourite city with beautiful places you can walk and cycle to even during lockdown. In particular @prettylittlelondon demonstrates the beauty even in a colourful door and the blooming flowers of nature around London during summer.
@expertvagabond 148k followers Matt Karsten made a career for himself as a photographer before he decided to live his dream of travelling the world. This account truly demonstrates the ideal of ‘living the dream’ with Matt combining his passion for travel and photography. My favourite photo series on this account is by far the natural wonders of Antarctica, from seeing whales to penguins all in their natural habitat. As one of the most untouched environments in the world Matt truly captures the wonders of travelling in his stunning photographs.
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@girlgoneabroad 32.5k followers Lauren has documented her solo travels as a ‘cultivator of beautiful places and spaces’. She explores every inch of her travel destinations, capturing the rooftops of Florence and the vineyards of Lanzarote. Her feed will have you yearning to book the next flight out to wherever she ends up next!
@earthexpedition 9600 followers Despite this account having the smallest following out of the featured feeds, it is by no means any less stunning. Owen focuses on hiking and the natural world in his photography, which takes you to the deserted and remote corners of the world. My favourite landscape portrait has to be the Black Sand Beach in Iceland. By looking down from the cliffs onto the small black sand cove it represents the harsh cold landscape of Iceland and the beauty that unfolds.
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@onceuponajrny 62.8k followers Roxanne and Maartje have been travelling since 2015, while also promoting LGBTQIA+ rights as a lesbian couple. With their rainbow feed and powerful portraits, this couple are not to be missed. They did an amazing series on how great Europe is to travel through as a lesbian couple and give great insight to different places’, sometimes undiscovered, gay communities..
@traveldeeper 92.7k followers
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Gareth Leonard wanted to travel the world, not in a 90-day speed tour but rather to ‘travel deeper’. Advocating slow travel, this account delves deeper into understanding different cultures and communities. When Gareth visited Japan in 2017, he expected what media had presented as a modern crowded country, but instead he found and documented a unique culture with delightful food and spectacular history. This account is perfect for an in-depth portrayal of different cultures around the world.
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LONDON RUNWAY
YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice brings you sunshine-filled yellow garments and accessories that are perfect for radiating your summer glow!
Aries March 21 - April 20 This statement Walker Felt hat suits the bold Aries well. Suitable for the warmer and colder months, they can wear this hat essentially year-round.
Taurus April 21 - May 21 This pinstriped Mom suit by Ilk + Ernie has that nostalgic 90’s silhouette, but the flexibility of also being a work appropriate ensemble suits the practical Taurus perfectly.
Gemini May 22- June 21
These Rohini Earrings by Daughters of the Ganges sold on Komodo are handcrafted in India. With the playful tassel accents and pressed gold coin, it will match well with the Gemini’s bubbly personality.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22
This Sun-trimmed Fedora Hat by Beaumont Organic is an understated colour addition to a sophisticated Cancer’s wardrobe.
Leo July 23- August 21
A gold-plated brass Kaligarh Circle Necklace for the regal Leo will further emulate their natural shine. Can be found on Thought Co.’s website along with other sunshine inspired accessories.
Virgo August 22- September 23
Rêve en Vert’s Recycled Gold Plate Small Calla Necklace is both sustainable, ethical, and classy, perfect for the simple Virgo.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Libra September 24- October 23 Madewell’s Silk Skinny Bandana in June Gingham Crisp Pear pairs well with any of the romantic and sociable Libra’s outfits. Perfect for a picnic in the field or a drive through the countryside.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 This O-ring by MvdT jewelry sold on P.i.C Style’s site is a minimalistic addition to Scorpio's simple wardrobe to enhance their natural, chic style.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
A wanderlust Sagittarius can be seen prancing around in these Four Stripes Sandals by Capsule on their many adventures once it is safe to do so!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Capricorn December 23- January 20
The Sunset Scarf by Peruvian Connection features blue, cream, and orange dip-dyed accents. This airy linen scarf will keep the hard-working Capricorn cool and comfortable.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 An Aquarius would be stunning with these Montpellier Yellow Havana Sunglasses. Sold by Dick Moby, these glasses have a biodegradable acetate frame with a recycled leather case.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
This floral Gwen design Face Mask by Reformation pairs well with the sensitive and delicate Pisces. Allowing them to safely go about their day, every mask purchased is also a mask donated!
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Images via their respective retailers
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
WHERE IN THE WORLD IS YOUR DREAM HOLIDAY DESTINATION?
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"Every place in the world is wonderful to explore. I had to postpone my safari in Kenya, hope I can get there soon" - Fil Mazzarino, photographer
"There's just something about Thailand that I love! Would definitely travel there" - Annie Apakoh, model
"BORA BORA - PURE PARADISE"
- KAY JAY, PROFESSIONAL INTERNATIONAL MODEL
""SOMEWHERE COLD!"" - Jose Graca, photographer
"BORA BORA"
- Akram Arshad, part-time primary teacher and model
"Maldives" - Alexandra, public employee
"Santorini" - Hannah Lewis, performer/model
"Right now, I wish I was in a cabin in Norway - modern glass walls facing an isolated lake - pure bliss"
"The Maldives! One day! I hope!" - Elena, Senior Claims Analyst
- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
NEXT: THE TOGETHER ISSUE THE SUNSHINE ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT GFW BY FIL MAZZARINO