London Runway Issue 53: The Together Issue

GLOBAL WARMING + FASHION . TEXTILE TRADITIONS . FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2020 WINNERS . WOWPLUS

Mariia Pashuk

MARIIA PASHUK . DIOR . KORN TAYLOR . SHRIMPS . N-UE LONDON . STUDIO PIA . PUSHBUTTON

ISSUE 53 27TH AUGUST 2020

THE TOGETHER ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Maria Henry, Cicilia Brognoli, Grace Pickford, Cheyanne Greig-Andrews, Darcey Sergison Staff Illustrator: Ben Springham Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk / kavyar.com/london-runway-magazine Contributors: Madisen Crandall, Ram Eagle Photoworks, Olga Reva, Olga Anisko, Rykova Katerina, Marc Biakath, Jessica Pearson, Marta Rosanska, Ewa Cecylia Januszewska, Alexa Idaly, Rosa Anduxar, Elektra Maldonado, Katelyn Dorman, Lily Ziemba, Ellie Shaddix, Dallas Knight, Sara Helterman Shaddix, Ricardo Rivera, Alicja Wejer, Beata Kepa, Marta Zielinska, Vanessa Sandra Wielicska, Magdalena Nowicka, Katarzyna Obara, Yuriy Boichenko, Polina Gvozdeva, Roman Nashchekin, Kristina, Christopher John, Jenna Elisabeth, David Wills, Garrett Riley, Brock Grady, Julia Tyagushova, Alesya Parkhomichuk, Darina Rybinets, Neonila-Emiliya Morgunova, Anastasia Getman, Evgenia Bulynenko, Serge Bazilic, Valerii Kovolenko, Andrew Sokur, Elena Dzhangiryan, Oxana Shevchenko-Dudchenko, Lone Design Club, and Korn Taylor Special thanks to Mariia Pashuk, WOW Presents Plus, and OnePlus

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Advertising department Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2020, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

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CONTENTS

LONDON RUNWAY

15 VISUALS

54 WORDS

Immortelle Collection by Adrianna Ostrowska

7

Global Warming's Impact on Fashion

4

Mariia Pashuk (Cover Editorial)

15

An Insight into Digital Fashion

12

New Faces

29

Textile Traditions From Around the World

26

Portfolio Piece

35

Fiat 126 (Editorial)

37

North Star (Editorial)

54

Style (Concious) Guide: Matching Besties

64

It's Not Forever (Editorial)

67

Jenna and Friends (Editorial)

74

Fashion Revolution (Editorial)

83

Stream the House Down Realness!: 94 WOW Presents Plus

Country Summer (Editorial)

88

Your Style Horoscope

106

N-ue Jewellery, Studio Pia, Korn Taylor Superheroes Collection

96

#TAGYOURMODELS

120

The Big Question

122

Flashback: Shrimps AW20, Flashback: Push Button AW20

101

Retrospective: Dior at the V&A

110

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Face of London Runway 2020: The 45 Winners Our Favourite Accessory Instagram Accounts

50

Book Club: James Forman

65

K-Pop and Fashion: How Stars Fuel Huge Sales

80

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Welcome to our August issue of London Runway, this month based around the theme of ‘Together’.

It might seem a bit strange to choose a theme like this in a time when we have all never been further apart physically than ever, but there’s a kind of logic to it.

We’ve all spent the last few months realising how much certain things matter. How valuable it is to be able to hug your friends and family members, to see them whenever you want, and even to have a shared experience with strangers. Whether that would be in a muddy festival field, the dark and crowded interior of a live performance venue, or simply close together in the queue for the bank, we’ve been missing out on that sense of togetherness.

At the same time, we’ve managed to get closer than ever. The daily Zoom calls and check-ins, the shopping and other tasks done for those who can’t get out by themselves, and our shared commiseration for experiences lost has all reinforced those bonds we share.

Now, in this issue, we’re celebrating what it means to truly be together.

While our editorials include images of models together, we’ve encouraged creatives to submit images taken before lockdown or in places where social distancing has been relaxed enough to allow for these shoots to take place.

We’re celebrating besties with our style guide, and bringing the whole world together with some of our articles in this issue.

We’ve also brought you some archive content from our photographers which

has never been published before.

These are shows and events that we attended in the past but, for one reason or another, couldn’t find the space in our pages to share them.

Ahead of next month’s hopeful return to London Fashion Week, we hope you’ll enjoy this dash of inspiration from seasons past.

All that remains is for me to remind you to appreciate the ones you love – and let them know it, too. And if you want to spend more time together with us, remember you can find us @londonrunwaymag on most social networks and wherever you get your podcasts as London Runway Style.

For now, enjoy -

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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GLOBAL WARMING’S IMPACT ON FASHION

With tensions rising globally concerning climate change, Madisen Crandall explores global warming and its impacts on fashion.

The fashion industry is responsible for more than 8% of total global carbon emissions. Nonbiodegradable fabrics can last up to 200 years in a landfill and it takes more than 2700 litres of water to make a single cotton shirt. We know that fashion contributes to global warming in a big way. And yet, the irreversible effects of global warming have also dictated the future of fashion, idealising norms which may not be beneficial to the industry.

The fashion industry is supported by the greedy attitude surrounding trends, fads, and the next big thing.

Fashion’s main goal is to keep consumers not only wanting but needing more. This perspective results in a somewhat infinite turnover rate, overfilling stores, wardrobes, and eventually landfills.

This vicious cycle feeds on itself, increasing the unwanted ramifications to the fashion industry.

Considering global warming in a context of its impacts on our world and livelihoods, the fashion industry is a prime example of the neverending and somewhat impossible battle that is climate change.

Many of the industry’s top designers have modified procedure, design, and recycling attempts too little too late and have, alongside many others, felt the repercussions. Countless brands have opted for overhauls in their business models, choosing circularity over linearity regarding fabric life and material use.

These changes, however, while often met with good publicity and an enthusiastic increase in ecoconscious clientele, have sometimes proven to be financially, even logistically, difficult to facilitate. And with the issues of global warming surrounding the entire industry, it will take more than just a few big names to make the change, speaking to the allencompassing and overwhelming nature of global warming’s impact on fashion.

Considering recent events of the global pandemic, to which the fashion industry has not been immune, many companies have taken this “quiet time” to privately further research and fund new developments and processes. In lieu of delayed traditional project launches, the cancellation of Fashion Weeks and shows, and temporary change in regular company functions, several wellknown brands have recently indicated their intent to change their respective business models.

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Outerknown, a relatively smaller player in the industry, have recently invested in purchasing thrifted and donated fabrics and materials for their new designs. Using their small corner of the fashion industry, they are making a difference. Substantive efforts from many companies have been recognised recently, proving that, while events and unfortunate circumstances threaten to consume the industry, power can be found in companies and brands banding together to create fashion for a better future.

In line with this belief, the industry has also witnessed a significant increase in second-hand clothing, an attempt perhaps to mitigate the consequences of global warming. Based on projections, the second-hand fashion market is set to hit $64 billion in the next 5 years, a monumental increase from the mere $10 billion reached in 2009. Much of this increase comes from online thrifting, which has changed global markets and exceeded expectations for the typically more successful fast fashion clothing brands.

Over the next twelve months, secondhand/thrifting stores are the among the few revenue sectors in the online fashion industry that are expected to gain new customers. And with traditional thrift and donation levels rising from 34% in 2019 to 414% in 2020, it is no wonder projections for second-hand fashion continue to rise.

These increases are literally changing the very fabric of the industry itself.

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Much conjecture, however, still surrounds the implications of global warming on the fashion industry. Global weather patterns are changing, and the fashion industry has, of course, evolved to fit consumer demand based on climate. Some of the most notable changes in fashion due to the change in temperature can be recognized in Korea. The four distinctive seasons there have been impacted by global warming resulting in a similar change in trends. Studies have shown sluggish sales to match warmer winters and longer summers, while seasonal items such as parkas, jumpers, and long pants have faltered in popularity due to weather change.

Similar trends can be observed globally. Revenue gaps and sales records have been dented internationally for winter garments due to unseasonably warmer temperatures, so much so that any item - ranging from the fluffiest of jumpers to the smallest of bikinis are often available year-round.

There is also much evidence to support the claim that the unpredictability of the weather is only becoming more prevalent as time goes on. This can be reflected in a recent study conducted

by Edited which found rises in summer apparel have been observed since 2012.

This indicates that retailers are not only stocking summer trends more confidently but that consumers are purchasing more clothing appropriate only for warmer weather. This study also revealed the condensing of discounting periods for winter apparel, highlighting the price flattening trends witnessed year-round globally.

And while many within the industry aim to limit the impact of fashion on global warming, not much can be done regarding the impact of global warming on fashion. In fact, many researchers assume the recent changes in trend are only the beginning of a significant pattern. Scientists have recently discovered that the earth has warmed by nearly 0.9 degrees Celsius since the late 19th century, a number which doesn’t seem to evoke much fear until you follow it up with the fact that hidden in these temperature increases

are extreme weather events such has heat waves, severe drought, increased precipitation and subsequent humidity, and desertification, all of which are more impactful and damaging than the small shifts in averages.

Data released by UKCIP indicates scenarios for the future of London’s climate, theorising that temperatures could skyrocket by 2050, meeting unbearable numbers by 2080. Along with this, winter temperatures will obviously rise, giving way to higher precipitation rates and extreme decreases in snowfall rates. London is also uniquely exposed to a higher chance of drought and greater potential for non-viable water flooding. This means that it could not only be drowning in the future, but also entirely quenched for thirst. The bottom line is that we are experiencing human-induced climate change, and it is not only moving into our lives but renovating them.

Images via Canva and Pexels

The world has watched as temperature have risen, as our emissions have increased, and our conservation efforts plateaued. We have witnessed the rise of the eco-conscious person and even implemented such beliefs into the very fabric of the industry. And we are learning now that such attempts grow futile if not met by a complete and total reimagination of the fashion industry itself. It becomes crucial that we are not only aware of our impacts on global warming but also, global warming’s impact on us. Only then can we venture into a territory of real and sustainable change. Only then will we be able to experience the truest joy of fashion as a friend to the environment.

You can read more of Madisen’s writing by following her blog at madiethewriter.blogspot.com.

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LONDON RUNWAY

IMMORTELLE COLLECTION

By Adrianna Ostrowska

Immortelle is the latest collection from international fashion designer Ostrowska Couture, showcased in the House of iKons Ikonic Kids Fashion Show during London Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2020.

Models: Freya Shiers, Anais Jessica Berinde, India Taylor, Oliwia Mituniewicz, Jenny Hoang, Stefani Kolevska, Lexi Griffin, Isabel, & Vivienne Monique Make Up: Jackie Den Heijer & team Hair: Missy O'Daniel & team Media Director: March Joseph Rosales Photographer: RamEagle Photoworks

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Freya Shiers

Lexi Griffin

Stefani Kolevska

India Taylor

Oliwia Mituniewicz

Anais Jessica Berinde

Vivienne Monique

Jenny Hoang

AN INSIGHT INTO DIGITAL FASHION This month, Cicilia Brognoli looks into the digital progress of the fashion industry.

In recent months, the increase in technology has certainly affected various sectors, and fashion is no exception. The shop closure during Spring 2020 and the impossibility of holding live events challenged the habits of both consumers and retailers. The last edition of Fashion Week was probably a look at how these events could evolve in the future. Although in September there will be a return to live fashion shows, accompanied by online ones, it is not certain that in the future brands will not choose to turn towards online-only presentations.

The months of lockdown were challenging for brands that had to rethink their customer experience, focusing on digital. According to

some statistics in the past few months, three out of 10 British people bought clothes online at least once. However, it is not always just a matter of needs or wishes regarding the clothes and accessories in question. Shopping is for some a real experience that takes into account every interaction with the brand. Covid19 has certainly changed consumer behaviour and has pushed the improvement of the experience offered by many brands. Generally, the main digital shoppers are young ones, but the emergency health situation has prompted people of all ages to dive into online shopping.

Currently, 80% of fashion labels work with Instagram influencers and many brands use product tagging or shopping-centric features on this social network.

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Influencer marketing generates $9 billion (ÂŁ6.87 billion) annually, but now users are looking for a real engaging technological method to get an incentive to buy. Instagram algorithms show us products and photos similar to what we watch the most as if it were a personal stylist ready to always recommend what we like most.

Although the past months have represented a difficult time for all brands, this period of uncertainty has pushed on technological innovation applied to fashion. The majority of social media users have increased their online activity, thus some platforms started to rethink their marketing potential. The success of social commerce grew incredibly during the lockdown, as Facebook saw a considerable use of its 'marketplace' and 'shop' section where people can buy things from other users, and in the second case directly from brands.

LONDON RUNWAY

The use of the Instagram shop section spiked during these months, as the platform started populating with small businesses selling masks with any kind of pattern. Overall, Facebook and Instagram offer basic purchasing with no frills, but other social networks are considering the potential to provide a real shopping experience.

At the present moment, high-end brands do not use standardised taxonomy and, in fact, the virtual comparison of luxury products can be more difficult. However, they are now rethinking their taxonomy process and they want to challenge the digital shopping experience by pushing on artificial intelligence more than ever.

The real high-tech platform is now Snapchat, which is focusing on augmented reality and social commerce.

Snapchat was not born to promote brands, however, it wants to increase its shopability in the immediate future. The new feature is called ‘shofies’ and it allows users to virtually try shoes thanks to special lenses that will access the smartphone camera. If this project is successful, many brands will increase their advertising spend on this social media platform, as customers will be able to purchase their products directly on Snapchat. This proposal looks tempting and potentially successful, because the main Snapchatters are members of Generation Z and millennials, so anyone born between 1981 and 2012. They are generally techsavvy people interested in augmented reality and hoping for a smarter shopping experience.

Ralph Lauren knows how prone young customers are to post dozens of photos and videos on social media. The brand decided to partner with Snap to start the first collection of branded virtual clothing created for Bitmoji. Snapchat users can dress up their avatar with 12 garments suitable for every situation.

The blending of real-world and digital realities meet in the purchase of this collection, available both in-store and online. When buying these clothes customers can also have the 3D Bitmoji Lenses identifying other users whose avatars wear the Ralph Lauren collection. This is a great opportunity for Snapchat to commercialise its technology by creating partnerships with fashion brands increasingly looking for similar innovations.

Apart from social media, artificial intelligence helps brands to assign understandable and exhaustive product descriptions, increasing their probability of sales. Taxonomy, the classification of a particular object, is the base of online sales. Farfetch, one of the major e-commerce sites, is partially based on manually-operated categorisation. Indeed, thousands of products are described and photographed manually, and then the taxonomic classification of the product is enriched by graphic systems created

by Farfetch data scientists. This long process could take a big turn because online shopping is becoming the new normality for many people.

The Yes, a personalised shopping app leader in the taxonomy sector, makes product nomenclature automatic as computer vision can select appropriate attributes for each object.

Gucci will soon rock mainstream virtual shopping with its new technology called Gucci Live, a personalised video experience. This will shortly be available in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) and then expand worldwide. The video service allows customers to connect to the Gucci staff via smartphone or computer. The sales associate appears on the shopper's screen wearing the traditional uniform consisting of a black suit, white shirt, bow-tie and red gloves. Every detail of the video is extremely realistic to best represent the in-store experience while offering fantastic e-shopping. This is the first remote clientele service of this type and it was proudly created in Florence in the brand's headquarters.

Gucci has absolutely no ambition to replace in-store shopping with this innovation. Indeed, the goal is to bring the excellence of Gucci shopping assistance also in the virtual world, to help clients when they are unable to go to the store personally. Furthermore, a

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large part of the brand's customers are Asian millennials who represent the core audience of the contemporary and future luxury market. These curious shoppers are strongly intrigued by the combination of artificial intelligence and fashion. For this reason, after the launch of Gucci Live in EMEA, this video consultation service will be immediately offered in Asia, and it aims at raising online sales.

In short, the current health emergency has led to a sudden change in the fashion system, not only in retail but also in the approach to collection presentations.

In fact, in the past, some brands proposed digital events, but they always returned to the traditional catwalk. Instead, labels are now reevaluating the artificial intelligence potential for the implementation of their shows. Despite some feeling that the traditional fashion week system is the untouchable pillar of this industry, for other high-tech events, a good dose of digital features is not bad at all.

Some brands such as Ralph & Russo and Dior showed their Winter 20202021 Haute Couture collection online, transporting the observer on a digital journey worthy of praise.

The British brand created an avatar wearing the gowns, inspired by the Seven Wonders of the World, posing in front of them. The beautiful ebony avatar called Hauli is super realistic, and her artificiality is hardly noticed at all. The combination of voluminous and pastel dresses and the most beautiful architecture in the world creates an exciting mix of beauty. Ralph & Russo opted for a replica of the human figure, while Dior has chosen to propose a journey into an enchanted world.

The video of the French brand recalls a beautiful fairy tale. Two butlers carry a small house-shaped trunk into the woods containing the wonderful collection created in

miniature. The forest’s fairies spot the small house and are enchanted by the beauty of those human-made gifts.

Valentino instead presented his collection with a collaboration with British photographer Nick Knight.

Pierpaolo Picciolo, the creative director of the Italian maison based in Rome, has chosen to present his collection with a digitally immersive experience created by the extremely talented Knight. The result is a 4-minute video, available on the brand’s YouTube account, showcasing the gorgeous dresses worn by models floating against a black background. Plays of light and dance are accompanied by the music of indistinct sounds and voices, while on the part of the clothes, extremely long as if they were for waders, images that are also not identifiable are projected. The gloomy atmosphere illuminated only by the light reflected on the clothes focuses the observer's attention on them. This video entitled 'Of Grace and Light' shows better than any other project the potential of hybrid fashion, a combination of physical-digital that many call phygital. In these three cases, the observer lives a virtual journey showing all the potential of the fashion and technology bond.

The variety of extremely different and interesting presentations of the shows that took place between June and July 2020 gave an exhaustive idea of how brands can find a substitute for the live shows. However, we look forward to the next technological innovations, hoping that the traditional lively Fashion Weeks will be again an option for the brands. The beauty of fashion lies in its flexible and resilient approach, always able to transport the observer into an immersive experience both online and offline.

You can read more of Cicilia’s work on ciciliabrognoli.weebly.com. Images via Instagram

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Illustration by Ben Springham

MARIIA PASHUK

Fashion designer/model - Mariia Pashuk @mariiapashukbrand Photographer - Olga Reva @photographer_in_miami Makeup Artist - Olga Anisko @aniskomakeup Models - Rykova Katerina @Rykovakaterina; @amazzing7

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TEXTILE TRADITIONS FROM AROUND THE WORLD In this article, Cheyanne Greig-Andrews delves into the history, symbolism, and creation of some of the finest textile traditions around the world, exploring how these traditions continue to flourish in the modern era.

In the beautifully diverse world we live in, the list of textile traditions worth exploring is seemingly endless. “Textile” refers to any woven fabric used to create garments, rugs, bags, and other household or wearable goods. With both functional, cultural, and symbolic value, textiles are a key component of any societal identity. Textiles allow communities to preserve their culture through the making, and wearing, of traditional fabrics. So, let us travel around the globe as we explore some of the exquisite textile traditions that are thriving today.

INDIA

When discussing textiles of the world there is no question that India needs to be on this list. Indian textiles date as far back as 5000 B.C.E. The Rig Veda, the oldest surviving literature in the world, mentions the iconic Indian garment known as the Sari (or Saree/Sharee).

Originally worn by both men and women, the Sari is the oldest recorded piece of clothing.

Today, the Sari is worn by women.

Traditionally the sari fabric is handloomed from silk or cotton. However, artificial fibres and mechanical looms have become commonplace. A Sari is a large rectangular piece of cloth (roughly 5-9 meters in length). Every Sari is embellished with intricate designs and colours, traditionally stamped by hand using intricately carved blocks. Each region of India has unique designs on their Saris offering a glimpse into the local culture. India’s textiles are as prevalent today as they were thousands of years ago, a beautiful textile tradition that is here to stay.

PERU

On the west coast of South America sits the enchanted land of Peru. Each region of Peru has unique traditions carried down by the indigenous people.

Although it is impossible to know exactly how life may have looked

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before Spanish settlement in South America, the resilience of indigenous Peruvians (and the durability of their fabrics) has allowed an important part of their culture to survive.

Made from alpaca or sheep wool, Peruvian textiles are still made traditionally today. Women are typically responsible for weaving the wool on handlooms. In the mountain regions, however, men take on the job of knitting colourful hats, mitts, and other wearables. Shearing the animal, cleaning with plant suds, and using dyes derived from the earth; every step of the process is done by hand as it has been for centuries. Peruvian textiles are not only beautiful but also help to ensure indigenous cultures survive for generations to come.

NIGERIA Colours, patterns, textures galore; Nigerian textiles are a feast for the eyes.

With an array of ethnic groups within Nigeria, the textiles reflect the diversity of the country. There are several regional textiles found in Nigeria such as Aso Oke, Adire, A’Nger, Kente, and Ukara. Undoubtedly, the most recognizable textile in Nigeria is known as Ankara. Historically worn for formal attire, by both men and women, today Ankara is worn in a variety of styles for everyday use. Ankara first arrived in Nigeria in the 19th century after West

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African men, enlisted by the Dutch army, were sent to Indonesia. They fell in love with the Indonesian wax resistant dyeing technique known as batik. The bold, vibrant, and tribal-like patterns were quickly adapted into the Nigerian staple textile of Ankara. Today, Ankara is deeply engrained in Nigerian culture and has become a source of African pride and diaspora. As successive generations utilise Ankara in new and innovative ways, they keep the tradition alive while simultaneously creating something new in the process.

A textile tradition with a life of its own.

THAILAND

With rich regional variety, Thailand has an incredibly diverse textile history.

Natural plant fibres and dyes create vibrant textiles in every part of the country. In some regions, indigo is the dye of choice, while in others, deep reds and purples are preferred. Tie-dyeing is also common throughout Thailand, offering beautiful patterns befitting to the climate and surroundings.

There are unique regional differences in the weaving of textiles throughout Thailand. In Northern Thailand, you can still find couples using a “lovers loom,” a loom requiring two people to weave at the same time. In other parts of the country, it is solely women who carry on the weaving traditions, some learning the skill at the age of 16.

Patterned sarongs can be found in most parts of the country. The sarong can be

worn by anyone. With its lightweight and breathable material, it’s perfect for the hot Thai summer days.

SCOTLAND

You can’t think about Scotland without picturing the quintessential kilt.

Typically worn by men, the kilt is a pleated knee-length skirt with a tartan print. Every Scotsman and Scotswoman belongs to a clan (or many) connected to their surname and lineage and each clan has a tartan print associated with it.

There is no shortage of speculation and folklore behind the symbolic meaning of the colours and patterns in tartans.

However, little evidence can be drawn from these theories.

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Tartan patterns aren’t completely random, however, certain clans with neighbouring ties would have similar tartans to show their kinship. Red was a difficult natural dye to procure, so clans with lots of red in their tartans likely came from wealth.

Tartans are traditionally made from woven wool, but today are made from several other materials. The patterns on a tartan are created out of pre-dyed threads woven in alternate patterns to create intricate linear designs.

Although it isn’t clear why certain patterns and colours were chosen for the many Scottish tartans that exist today, it’s befitting of Scottish lore toenvisage a story behind them.

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MOROCCO

With thousands of years of international trade and migration, Morocco undoubtedly has a fascinating textiles history. With influence from the Ottoman and Roman empire, Berbers, Phoenicians, and Arabs, Morocco has a rich and vibrant story to tell within their garments. Known for their colourful fabrics, and of course, the incredible hand-woven rugs, Moroccan markets are teaming with textiles for every purpose.

Moroccan textiles come in an array of beautifully designed patterns in warm vibrant tones, commonly made from cotton or silk. The Kaftan is a traditional garment dating back to the 16th century.

Today the Kaftan is worn by women for both formal and informal occasions.

These garments are defined by their long sleeves, intricate stitching, piping, and handmade buttons. The Djellaba is another traditional garment in Morocco.

Lastly, the Takchita is mainly reserved for weddings. Morocco’s unique history and geographic position are reflected in its textile traditions, a tapestry of stories woven into every fabric.

History is tricky and where words may fail us, textiles cannot. A narrative is silently woven into every fabric.

Textiles survive when languages, religions, or other traditions can be lost in time. We are offered a glimpse into the past from the textile traditions that are carrying on throughout the world.

Certainly, there is fear that our modern, fast fashion world will make the craft of traditional textiles superfluous.

However, by learning to appreciate the fibres that weave cultures together, there is hope that these textile traditions can continue to thrive.

Did you enjoy this article? Find more of Cheyanne’s work by connecting with her on Instagram @thelondonhippie Photographs via Pixabay and Cheyanne’s personal collection

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MARC BIAKATH Name: Marc Biakath Age: 22 Location: London Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

Been modelling for around 2.5 years Where are you from originally?

Originally from Cameroon

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can open beer bottle lids with teeth What would surprise people to know about you?

I speak French What are your modelling ambitions?

Be a successful model travelling the world working with small and renowned brands, walking fashion shows.

Model/Creative Director: Marc Biakath @bmxrc Photographer: Jessica Pearson @jesspearson_14 Wardrobe Credits: Revival Ldn

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MARTA ROSANSKA Name: Marta Age: 15 Location: Poland Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

For 3 months Where are you from originally?

I was born in Wrocław, Poland

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I’m a good actress and dancer What would surprise people to know about you?

That I have a great sense of humour!

What are your modelling ambitions?

I’d like to do more photoshoots, work with great people and develop as a model!

Photographer/Creative Director: Ewa Cecylia Januszewska @ev___qa Model: Marta Rozanska @Martarozanska_

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ALEXA IDALY Name: Alexa Idaly Age: 19 Location: Mexico City Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

I’ve been modeling for almost a year.

Where are you from originally?

I’m from Mexico City, I’ve been my whole life here!

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

Could you believe me if I tell you I can move one of my eyeballs without moving the other?

What would surprise people to know about you?

I love to learn! People mostly think

that if you have a career or job around fashion then you are superficial. But actually no, I am always learning about neuroscience, history, medicine, economy and everything I can think of!

What are your modelling ambitions?

Besides being scouted by a big agency, I want to be a role model to all the young girls out there struggling with theirselves. The modeling industry is one of the most competitive. Models nowadays need to have new ambitions besides ‘being famous’, I aspire to inspire.

Not just as a model but also as a photographer myself I am exposing a new face around a new generation showing to the whole world "actually, you can."

Model/Photographer: Alexa Idaly @alexa.idaly

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ROSE ANDUXAR Currently based out of Central Florida, Rose R. Anduxar is a portrait, fashion, and fine arts photographer. Rose's fine arts work focuses on the potential to transform a set and a subject visually with emotions and intrigue as a premise.

This style creates stunning images that also expand to her work in fashion editorials, portraiture, and commercial projects.

She developed her love for photography as a child through hundreds of amazing prints left behind by her grandfather. He was an avid photographer by trade and he never missed the opportunity to create amazing work. It wasn't until later in life, however, that her love for this particular art form evolved into what it is today.

portfolio piece

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Where do you find inspiration to make your photographs?

– I draw inspiration from the talent itself, their emotions and intrigue, and from ideas that come to mind at the moment or in the middle of the night. I mostly work with youth because there is a story to tell that is young and new, whether we dress it from the past, the present, or the future.

What do you most like to photograph?

– I mostly like to photograph children and teens. There is so much creativity and art in their stories. The process of growing up can be intense, beautiful, and also terrifying. It is also fleeting. When I photograph youth I can create a new world or time travel, and the results are quite wonderful.

Who are your favourite photographers?

– My favourite photographers to date are Annie Leibovitz and Dorothea Lang. Annie Leibovitz continues to amaze me with her work and Dorothea Lang truly and beautifully transported us to the realities of the past with her documentaries.

Models: Elektra Maldonado, Katelyn Dorman, Lily Ziemba, Ellie Shaddix, Dallas Knight @dallasknightofficial Wardrobe Stylist: Sara Helterman Shaddix Production Assistant: Ricardo Rivera

FIAT 126 Models: Alicja Wejer @boskaflorence; Beata Kępa @be_kepa Wardrobe Stylist: Retro Chica - Marta Zielińska Fashion Designer and Stylist: Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko @nessa_velichko Photographer: Magdalena Nowicka @foto.nowicka Makeup Artist: Katarzyna Obara @colourfull.bliss

Alicja wears Stylization of "Rugged" by Marta Zielińska (Retro Chica)

Beata wears: Stylization of "Ruffle" by Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko Alicja wears: Stylization of "Rugged" by Marta Zielińska (Retro Chica)

Beata wears: Stylization of "Ruffle" by Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko Alicja wears: Stylization of "Rugged" by Marta Zielińska (Retro Chica)

Beata wears: Stylization of "Ruffle" by Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko

Beata wears: Stylization of "Ruffle" by Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko Alicja wears: Stylization of "Rugged" by Marta Zielińska (Retro Chica)

Beata wears: Stylization of "Ruffle" by Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko Alicja wears: Stylization of "Rugged" by Marta Zielińska (Retro Chica)

Beata wears: Stylization of "Ruffle" by Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko Alicja wears: Stylization of "Rugged" by Marta Zielińska (Retro Chica)

Beata wears: Stylization of "Ruffle" by Vanessa Sandra Wieliczko Alicja wears: Stylization of "Rugged" by Marta Zielińska (Retro Chica)

LONDON RUNWAY

FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2020

THE WINNERS

It’s been a long journey to get here, through a lockdown that none of us could have predicted, and with enforced changes to our process as a result. But we’re happy to say that the votes are in, and we can now announce the winners of the Face of London Runway 2020!

There was a phenomenal amount of interest this year, with all of our top twelve finalists getting a combined voting score of more than 6,300 – definitely a big increase on the first time we held the competition. More than 150,000 Facebook users saw the images, and with many of them getting involved with comments too, it’s been a fantastic time for us reading and watching everything

coming in.

Without further ado, here are the results you’ve been waiting for:

The winners will be popping up in our pages again soon, as we’ll be doing a cover photoshoot with both of them – and our runners-up in second and third places will be joining them to take part in stock shoots for our archives. That means you could be seeing them all year round, and we may even have some extra surprises planned, too.

Womenswear Winner: Hannah Lewis Runner-Up: Faye Tamsin Runner-Up: Kemi Adefolalu Menswear Winner: Orpheus Sloma Runner-Up: Akram Arshad

On top of this prize, we and Maxine Griffiths of The Model Workshops will be helping them to grow and develop their modelling careers, so look out during the next few Fashion Weeks – you might see a familiar face or two.

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Runner-Up: Devon ThelandersonSmith Photography this page - Fil Mazzarino and Mrityunjoy Mitra; next pages - Rhiannon D'Averc

WINNER

HANNAH LEWIS

Runner-Up

FAYE TAMSIN

Runner-Up

KEMI ADEFOLALU PAGE 47

WINNER

ORPHEUS SLOMA

Runner-Up

AKRAM ARSHAD

Runner-Up

DEVON THELANDERSONSMITH PAGE 49

LONDON RUNWAY

Darcey Sergison finds the perfect accessories you need to add to your collection now.

Accessories are an integral part of every wardrobe. From sunglasses to earrings, finding the perfect accessory can be the key to a stylish outfit and bold fashion statements.

Now that we are moving from summer to autumn, here are some accessories I have curated for you from my favourite Instagram accounts:

OUR FAVOURITE ACCESSORY INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS

1.@DaisyandValentina Followers: 1403 This is the perfect summer accessory. Handmade and shipped globally, Daisy creates unique designs from small beads and has extended her collection to now include shells and pearls. My favourite chain has to be the delicate Cara chain which goes with every outfit. This feed gives plenty of inspiration of how and where these chains can be worn from a busy day out and about to relaxing on the beach.

2.@LackofColorAus Followers: 537k Designed in Australia, these hats are a staple piece to any wardrobe. Lack of Color makes a range of chic styles which makes it hard to just choose one favourite. For a timeless hat always in fashion I recommend the Rancher, which comes in cream and green neutral colours. For a more seasonal trendsetting hat I recommend the Holiday Bucket in their retro floral print.

3.@JeanVintage_ Followers: 11.7k I recently discovered this brand on Instagram, and I was amazed at the variety and quality of vintage designer accessories they curate.

From Louis Vuitton scarfs to Y2K style Chanel sunglasses, no matter what piece you are looking for they will be sure to have it. Unlike many vintage sellers, Jean Vintage guarantees 100% authenticity on all of their products. Adding new items daily, be sure to follow them so you don’t miss out on any amazing pieces.

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4.@Modasy.UK Followers: 579 Handmade jewellery is becoming increasingly popular as it allows customers to get unique pieces made for them, but nothing is more exciting than the recycled bead programme Modasy has on offer.

With delicate but beautiful earrings available, this brand encourages customers to send old unwanted beads to be upcycled at a discounted cost. This impressive initiative offers sustainable fashion at an excellent price and their Instagram will have you rummaging through your drawers finding old jewellery to upcycle!

5.@AstridandMiyu Followers: 263k This brand is any millennial’s dream with their beautiful pink stores being the perfect place to browse for new earrings to add to your collection. As well as being a jeweller they also provide a piercing service in store. I would definitely recommend for any first-time piercings - Astrid and Miyu is the place to go. I got my first lobe piercing done here and I have been addicted to their jewellery since. My favourite collection has to be their vintage inspired collection with a mix of gold and silver metals perfect for mixing and matching.

6.@JenniferBehr Followers: 197k Producing handmade pieces from across the pond, Jennifer Behr creates stunning headbands in New York in every colour under the sun.

Ranging from satin Alice bands to metallic Grecian headbands you will want all of them to go with a variety of outfits. This brand first caught my eye when Chrissy Teigan featured it in one of her posts. My favourite is the hammered silk Lorelei headband in a duck egg blue shade.

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7.@FeltFancy Followers: 1399 Felt Fancy specialises in creating pompom standout adorned jewellery. These hand-felted bright and colourful pieces are perfect to brighten up every outfit. My favourite from the collection has to be the funky three ballhoops in an array of colours. Already featured at Grey College Fashion Show at Durham University, this up and coming brand is sure to get you plenty of compliments.

8.@RosieFortescueJewellery Followers: 56.3k This rainbow inspired collection is perfect for anyone who loves pastel palettes. The aim of this collection is to make “luxury jewellery affordable”and Rosie certainly achieves this in her latest emerald cut collection. At the heart of her brand is her love for coloured jewellery and this is seen throughout her designs. My favourite piece has to be the new silver emerald cut hoops with turquoise stones. This colour is a glowing piece and looks amazing on everyone. This jewellery is also perfect for mix and matching different colours to create the ultimate rainbow outfit.

9.@IGBONY_London Followers: 1187 One of 2020’s most essential new accessories has to be a sustainable facemask. Scrap buying throwaway face masks and invest in a sustainable reusable mask. IGBONY is a Black owned small business based in London. Specialising in occasion wear, these masks bring “relaxed glam to the everyday”. Stay safe in style by choosing one of many colourful bold patterned prints to wear the next time you go out. By wearing one of these masks you will be sure to win the award for most stylish mask everytime.

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10.@TheHappyHoopCo Followers: 952 Happy Hoop Co has to be my favourite brand for hoop earrings.

They specialise in quality gold and silver hoop earrings. With a range of designs, these hoops remind me of Italian chic, with the stunning gold sand dollar hoops being my favourite. If you are looking for new hoops to start your collection or build it up, choose from The Happy Hoop Co range.

11.@LilyandBean Followers: 80k Bags are always a must-have accessory, but Lily and Bean take it to the next level with their personalised bags. Hand painted totes are their most popular product, with influencers such as Flavia Stuttgen regularly promoting their latest products. Canvas bags have increased in popularity since Dior released a canvas tote bag, but Lily and Bean have made their bags unique with their craftsmanship by hand painting initials on their bags. I think these bags are the perfect summer accessory as they are great for going to the beach and casual days out shopping but they can also provide evening wear with their latest personalised clutch range.

12.@DappledShadeUK Followers: 1157 Dappled Shade has a variety of accessories but at the core of this brand is a passion to create sustainable products. Made using upcycled vintage and donated fabrics, there is a wide collection of accessories to choose from. My favourite is the electric bolt earrings made from recycled suede which are a stand out addition to any outfit. As well as this they also make small denim pouches which are a perfect and stylish protective case for face masks. But don’t forget you can also request custom orders if you want an even more unique accessory.

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Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc @PCIStudio Model: Precious Oni @precieuxjoie As an Ambassador for OnePlus UK, our Chief Editor decided to put the new OnePlus Nord to the test and see if the suite of cameras were strong enough to create a magazine-worthy fashion editorial. All of these shots were taken on the OnePlus Nord and edited on the device using the Adobe Lightroom app - and no other tools!

NORTH STAR Precious wears: Shirt - Jagged Dreamland; Shorts - Collusion

Precious wears: Dress - Collusion

Precious wears: Dress - Collusion; Bracelet - Jagged Dreamland

Precious wears: Shirt - Weekday; Skirt - Anaya With Love

Precious wears: Shirt - Weekday; Bracelet - Shashi

Precious wears: Dress - Vila; Choker - Jagged Dreamland

Precious wears: Dress - Anaya With Love

Precious wears: Dress - Collusion; Beadwork Necklace and Bracelet Jagged Dreamland

Precious wears: Shirt -Weekday; Shorts - Collusion

Precious wears: Dress - Collusion; Beadwork Necklace and Bracelet Jagged Dreamland

Precious wears: Shirt - Jagged Dreamland; Skirt - Anaya With Love

Precious wears: Dress - Anaya With Love; Choker - Jagged Dreamland

STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc

Recycled Flower Pencil Earrings KOI FOOTWEAR £15

Recycled Red Pencil Earrings KOI FOOTWEAR £13

High neck blouse with pleat detail in black VERA MODA £75

Billy Dress INTROVERT £20

Billy Cape INTROVERT £22.50

Large silk scrunchie SARAH AND SORRENTINO £20

Floral silk scrunchie SARAH AND SORRENTINO £20

Culotte jumpsuit SELECTED FEMME £75 Tira Grey Mary Janes KOI FOOTWEAR £35

Sai White May Janes KOI FOOTWEAR £35

MATCHING BESTIES PAGE 64

Face mask BILLIE JACOBINA £5

LONDON RUNWAY

BOOK CLUB

Locking Up Our Own

BY JAMES FORMAN

Each month, our resident book club reviews a new must-read volume that will help to educate, inform, entertain, and thrill you. This issue, Darcey Sergison starts the first installment of our new monthly feature by reviewing James Forman’s non-fiction book, Locking Up Our Own.

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LONDON RUNWAY

Locking Up Our Own is a captivating read about crime and punishment in Black America, with many parallels to the UK justice system. As I have been actively educating myself about the Black Lives Matter movement, Forman’s book was at the top of my list. Not only is it informative but it also has the shocking element of statistics about the demography of prisons around the US and gives an overview from the 1960s onwards of the problems that Black communities face. When I started to read this book it immediately drew parallels to the Netflix documentary 13th, which has risen in popularity since the death of George Floyd. Similarly, Forman takes an in-depth look at how Black America is treated within society and whether the justice system is truly there to protect this minority group of citizens.

Forman looks deeper into the justice problem in the US by opening on the 1995 court case of a young Black man. He asks “how did a majorityblack jurisdiction end up incarcerating so many of its own?”

Moving through from the 1960s Forman presents the answer to this question by looking at activists trying to solve problems that lead to incarceration. From gun violence to the war on drugs, these Black activists were unaware of the consequence that their actions would produce. Little did they know that despite their intention to combat these issues within their community, ultimately it would lead to a huge racial gap in punitiveness.

This book stands apart from many others that try to solve the problem of crime and punishment for Black communities. Forman has solved the issue many writers face from conservative readers that state that Black communities do not recognise violence within their own communities. Instead he faces this issue head on while looking at debates on drug use and gun violence.

My favourite section of the book discusses the debate which has tarnished the US for decades: gun control. Crime is largely correlated with gun violence in the US and Forman highlights that “nationally the black homicide rate was seven to eleven times higher than the white homicide rate”. Therefore, this is a problem not just faced by the US in general but also by Black communities specifically. Forman goes further and describes how this “anger” from Black communities “found its political expression in the demand for tougher criminal penalties especially for any crimes involving guns”. However, in 2017, Black citizens represented 12% of the US adult population while 33% of the prison population was Black.

This shows the disproportionate result of criminal penalties in the US. Similar to evervy country around the world, the US is plagued with racial bias. Representation is inadequate for Black citizens in the justice system which leads to punishment being imposed on the minority group. Forman uses the example of further intensification on the war on crime in the 1990s when Washington police had more stop and search powers to search for guns held in cars. Eric Holder Jr, US Attorney for the District of Columbia 1995, said these new rules made “the people of Washington DC. in some respects, no freer than the people of Selma, Alabama in 1955”. Forman highlights the specific stop and search excuse being “exceeding the tint limits” which was labelled as the “police favourite”.

Forman uses his experience in law, as a public defender, to make the reader question aspects of the criminal justice system which they may have never questioned before.

This book has been a vital starter of many tough conversations regarding race. Both informative

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and challenging, I would highly recommend this book to anyone who wants to know more about the complex issues behind the now global movement of Black Lives Matter.

Locking Up Our Own should be the top of the pile for any avid reader and budding activist. By reading Forman’s highly acclaimed book you are taking your allyship further than performative means. This book reflects the circular issues faced at the start of the Civil Rights Movement to the heart of the Black Lives Matter movement. My hope is that with more people informing themselves and taking action these issues should not need to be written about in the next generation.

If you decide this is the book for you here are some ways to support independent bookshops: Hive.co.uk supports local bookshops on an online platform, making it easy to shop for a variety of books Wordery is an alternative online bookshop which offers free worldwide delivery and vows to help bookworms find their new favourite book Blackwells is an academic independent bookshop which has grown from Oxford to other parts of the UK but hasn’t lost the charm of its welcoming and helpful staff

IT'S NOT FOREVER

Photographer: Yuriy Boichenko @phyouboy Models: Polina Gvozdeva at Jam Models @jam_models; Roman Nashchekin @omenroma.n Makeup Artist: Kristina @kristyaf__ All wardrobe: @lorange_novosibirsk

LONDON RUNWAY

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JENNA

+ FRIENDS

Photographer: Christopher John @c2correia Models: Jenna Elisabeth @jenna_elisabeth_; David Wills @cdavidwills; Garrett Riley @gawwett_wiley; Brock Grady @brock_gradyy

Jenna wears: Top - Francescas; Jewellery - Jewelers Garden; Chris wears: Jacket - Hollister; Shirt - H&M; Jeans, Hat - Express

LONDON RUNWAY

Jenna wears: Top - Fashion Nova; Jeans - Iris Jeans; Brock wears: Shirt - Calvin Klein

Jenna wears: Top - Fashion Nova; Jeans - Iris Jeans; Brock wears: Shirt - Calvin Klein

Jenna wears: H&M; Jewellery - Jewelers Garden; David wears: Shirt - Express

Jenna wears: Jacket - Michael Kors; T-shirt - H&M; Jewellery - Jewelers Garden Garrett wears: Jacket - H&M

Jenna wears: Jacket - Michael Kors; T-shirt - H&M; Jewellery - Jewelers Garden; Garrett wears: Jacket - H&M

LONDON RUNWAY

K-POP AND FASHION: HOW STARS FUEL HUGE SALES This issue, Grace Pickford explores K-Pop’s rise to international fame and how it has influenced the fashion industry.

K-Pop is the South Korean movement that swept the international music scene and has now exploded into a multimillionpound musical and visual phenomenon.

Never heard of K-Pop? Where have you been?

Here’s a quick overview.

K-Pop is a genre of music originating from South Korea that encompasses various styles including Korean pop, hip-hop, rock, and electronic. Its roots were planted back in the 1950s after the Korean War (1950-1953) when US troops based in South Korea introduced American pop music to the country.

Well-known stars such as Marilyn Monroe sang for the US army in South Korea which further established Western music into the culture. By 1957, the US troops had begun the American Forces Korea Network radio station, which was followed by a television service.

The army even held auditions for musicians to perform at their clubs and singers could earn a lot of money performing for the troops, which fuelled a great interest in exposing South Koreans to Western pop music.

By the end of the 1950s, Korean musicians who had performed for the US army had travelled to the US to perform, commencing the birth of what we now refer to as K-Pop. The K-Pop that you are familiar with in today’s charts did not appear, however, until later in the 1990s,

when big entertainment companies began forming K-Pop idol groups to target young audiences.

Girls’ Generation is one of the most popular K-Pop idol groups.

Established in 2007, they were the first Asian girl group to get over 100 million views on five different music videos. They are still thought of by many as “The Nation’s Girl Group”.

If this was the humble beginnings of K-Pop’s success story, it is easy to see how the big K-Pop stars of today found their fame with these sparkling foundations in place.

It wasn’t until 2012 when Psy’s ‘Gangnam Style’ was released that KPop burst into the international charts. Psy was the first person to reach one billion views on YouTube, and then hit two billion which broke the site’s view counter. As of this month in 2020, the music video sits at a shocking 3.7 billion views. Psy’s music video foreshadowed the start of the visually fantastic K-Pop trends to come.

Since then, K-Pop groups including BTS and Blackpink have broken into the international music market, featuring in songs with popular American artists such as Dua Lipa and Halsey.

To give you an idea of these groups’ success, the recent premiere of Blackpink’s latest single ‘How You Like That’ drew a viewing of 1.65 million fans, the band have made it onto the Forbes’ 30 Under 30 Asia list, and they have performed at the prestigious music festival Coachella alongside huge stars including Ariana Grande. The group’s net worth is reportedly at around $24 million a year.

You may be wondering what makes K-Pop unique to other genres of pop

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music. K-Pop groups have become renowned for their stand-out music videos, synchronised choreography and striking fashion statements. In Korean slang, the name for their ‘in sync’ dance moves is kalgunmu ( ), meaning “dancing perfectly in sync”.

칼군무

Catchy songs combined with satisfyingly synchronised dancing and eye-catching fashion choices has led to major social media followings for K-Pop stars. The four members of Blackpink have a collated Instagram following of just over 122 million people and in 2019, the group’s member Lisa was named the “most followed K-Pop Idol on Instagram”.

Although boy band BTS do not have individual accounts on Instagram, the band’s page has a following of over 28 million people.

This tremendous interest in K-Pop stars online has fuelled one of the biggest music/fashion mergers since the birth of American hip hop when brands such as Jordans and Adidas topped the ‘most-wanted’ lists for listeners of the genre.

LONDON RUNWAY K-Pop stars can now be seen walking in high-fashion runways, releasing streetwear lines and collaborations, as well as rocking head-to-toe outfits of big-name brands. With such a broad and dedicated following of fans from around the world on different social media sites, K-Pop stars’ visual impressions have become big earners.

K-Pop’s largest influence in the fashion industry has been on streetwear where BIG sales have been witnessed. In 2019, G-Dragon’s Nike Air Force 1 “Para-Noise” hit the headlines as they sold out immediately after being released.

The original price of the Nike trainers was $200 but they could be found being re-sold online for anything up to $4,000. This fashion release was noted as being the “most successful sneakers drops of 2019”.

Another example of K-Pop’s influence on trends and sales is the 44% increase in the men’s cosmetics industry between the years of 2011 and 2017. Due to male K-Pop artists showcasing men’s makeup, South Korea now reportedly makes up 20% of the global men’s cosmetics industry.

Across the world, fans are searching K-Pop stars’ fashion for inspiration which is fuelling trends in both

men’s and women’s fashion. When BTS’s member Suga was seen wearing a shirt designed by Virgil Abloh, the amount of searches for the specific shirt increased by 120%.

This also occurred when BTS rapper RM wore a pink Adidas t-shirt and online searches for the top rose by 97%. As well as streetwear, K-Pop has also marked its name in the world of high-fashion.

2018 was the first year that K-Pop stars officially “infiltrated the front row” at the most exclusive and anticipated fashion shows. High fashion has merged with K-Pop to the extent that Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior, designed BTS’s outfits for their Love Yourself: Speak Yourself world tour in 2019.

Which K-Pop stars are fuelling big sales for high fashion brands?

KAI Kai is one of nine members that make up the K-Pop group EXO, formed back in 2012. There were 12 members until the group had to be cut down after “legal disputes”. Kai is noted by many as the most fashionable K-Pop star and his social media following displays this: after a three-year break from Instagram, his re-joining saw him build a following of 1.6 million people in just six days.

Kai is best known for his over-sized fits, layering experiments and futuristic accessories. He has sat front row at Gucci and Louis Vuitton and in 2018 at the Gucci SS18 resort show, he arrived wearing all Gucci from the men’s Fall 2018 collection, crystal headband and all.

In March of this year, he became the first Korean global ambassador for Gucci, featuring in their new eyewear campaign. Gucci’s creative director and designer of the new eyewear said that facial expression “has the fascinating power to elicit a variety of imaginary reactions, giving off the message of a belief in your individual power” and many have agreed that Kai was the perfect model to represent this.

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Even Rhianna’s brand, Fenty Beauty, was reported to want to work with Kai as the hashtag #FENTYxKAI trended worldwide in support for the desirable collaboration.

JENNIE, ROSE, LISA AND JISOO BLACKPINK The girl group Blackpink debuted in 2016 and have caught the world’s attention with their style and music.

The four major French fashion houses Chanel, Celine, Saint Laurent, and Dior have each chosen a Blackpink member to be their brand ambassador.

This year Blackpink have hit the headlines on multiple occasions, featuring on Lady Gaga’s new album ‘Chromatica’ and for racking up 16 million views for their newest single’s music video release in minutes.

Not only was the video a visual buffet, it featured some of high fashion’s latest collections including one of Sarah Burton’s crimson lace looks from Alexander McQueen’s resort 2020. Lisa can be seen in a Hedi Slimane gown from the fall catwalk as well as in Off-White. It is obvious that fashion brands are utilising the band’s visual reputation to fuel big sales, and good on them!

Last year, K-Pop’s well-known groups BTS, EXO, and Twice reportedly made over £6 billion on merchandise alone, and K-Pop’s global revenue reached $3.5 billion in 2016, with that stat most likely having doubled in the years since. It is no surprise that K-Pop is fuelling huge sales not only in music, but in fashion as well.

With the current generation finding their fashion inspiration online, the fashion industry has taken note and is reaping the benefits from the KPop craze.

To read more of Grace’s work, visit her website gracepickford.com

FASHION REVOLUTION Photographer/Retoucher/Stylist: Julia Tyagushova @juliatyagushova Models: Alesya Parkhomchuk @alesamilexa; Neonila-Emiliya Morgunova @morgunova_neonila; Darina Rybinets @darina438; Anastasia Getman @anastasia__geetman with Diana Agency @dianamodels_dk Fashion designer: Evgenia Bulynenko @evgenia.pokusaeva All wardrobe: Exclusive Ń lothing collection "French Revolution" by fashion designer Evgenia Bulynenko

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COUNTRY SUMMER Photographer: Serge Bazilic @sergebazilic Models: Valerii Korolenko at Desired Model Management @kcfrlf; Andrew Sokur @andrewsokur Makeup Artist: Elena Dzhangiryan @ellenadzhangiryan Wardrobe stylist: Oxana Shevchenko-Dudchenko @ok.dudchenko Valerii and Andrew wear: All clothes - ManKevich

Valerii and Andrew wear: All clothes - ManKevich

Valerii and Andrew wear: All clothes - ManKevich

Valerii and Andrew wear: Shirts - ManKevich; Shorts - Cos

Andrew wears: Shirt - ManKevich

Valerii and Andrew wear: Shirts and Trousers ManKevich; Hats - Shapelie; Shorts - COS

STREAM THE HOUSE DOWN REALNESS!

WOW PRESENTS PLUS Rhiannon D’Averc reviews the streaming service for all of your drag needs, WOW Presents Plus.

Pop quiz: Where can you watch all of the RuPaul’s Drag Race content in the UK? If you answered Netflix, then – bzzzt – sorry, you’re wrong! Even the biggest fan is missing out on half the story if you’re only getting your drag fix there. But if you are a big fan, then you might have strayed onto YouTube from time to time and seen the occasional video from WOW Presents, featuring your favourite queens behind the scenes or in their own unique shows.

But where can you actually watch all of that Drag Race content you’ve been missing (including Drag Race Holland, which won’t be available anywhere else when it launches on 18th September)? And where can you watch those interesting-looking shows in full, without interruptions…?

Alright, you’ve probably guessed it from the title of this article – it’s WOW Presents Plus. This streaming service is the world’s leading LGBTQ+ streaming service, and Drag Race is only the tip of the iceberg. There are over 450 hours of content available on their apps and website right now, with plenty more to be added soon – and it’s all unmissable. You can watch it from your computer, phone, tablet, or TV with the right setup – we’ve been watching on an Xbox via the browser and it works fabulously.

Here’s a few of the highlights from WOW Presents Plus, and my thoughts on them!

RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE… LIKE, ALL OF IT All Stars Seasons 1-5. The main show seasons 1-12. All of the Untucked episodes. If you love RPDR, this is the one spot where you can get it all at once. No going back and forth to YouTube to try and catch those elusive Untucked episodes that never got televised in

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the UK. No searching through listings to try to figure out if you’ve missed a season. They’re right there on the home page, ready and waiting for you to explore all of the drama. Personal favourites? “You’re perfect, you’re beautiful, you look like Linda Evangelista, you’re a model” and that Sasha Velour rose petal moment (sorry, Shea). If you know, you know.

WERQ THE WORLD The Werq the World series is a behindthe-scenes look at some fan favourites as they go on tour, performing to sellout crowds around the world. It has some extremely interesting, intimate, and informative content about queens we all want to know better: Sharon Needles, Aquaria, Valentina, Kim Chi, Latrice Royale, and Violet Chachki are

LONDON RUNWAY just some of the girls getting a dedicated episode in the first series.

Season two just launched and it’s a must-watch. You’ll learn things you never knew about your Drag Race idols, and it puts a whole new spin on their interactions in the Werkroom for All Stars, too.

Fascinating and utterly bingeworthy.

UNHHHH

Katya and Trixie Mattel have long since made themselves legends on Drag Race, and since then, also through this comedy streaming series. These guys do whatever they want and talk about everything under the sun, which turns out to be not much of anything at all. Who are we kidding? We’d tune in to watch them just sit on a couch next to each other.

MORNING T&T

Homegrown faves The Vivienne and Baga Chipz have their own morning show as Donald Trump and Margaret Thatcher. Anyone who watched RPDR UK Season 1 definitely knew to expect this. Not for the faint of heart, it’s an irreverent take that will leave you rolling with tears of laughter – or cringing inwardly and covering your mouth. The rollercoaster never stops!

PARTY MONSTER

If you love your true crime documentaries (Making A Murderer, Don’t Fuck With Cats, et al) then Party Monster is the LGBTQ+ take on the biggest of them all. It’s about Michael Alig, a real-life Club Kid party organiser who lived the life of the party… until he bragged on actual television about the fact he’d killed his roommate and his drug dealer.

Whoops. This cannot be missed by murderinos of any orientation.

OUT OF IRAQ

Warning: do not watch this without a stack of tissues handy. This is a

documentary which won an Emmy for the depiction of Nayyef, a real translator for the US military, who met and fell in love with an Iraqi soldier called Ramadi. It brings home the dangers that LGBTQ+ people face in Iraq and the Middle East, just by risking to fall in love – and it’s a gripping ride as they fight to make their love possible.

DRAG RACE HOLLAND

The engines will be starting in a brand new country, as Fred van Leer is set to host this new format of the show from the 18th September. Perfect follow-on if you’ve been watching Drag Race Canada! Eight episodes are expected, each at an hour long, and it’s sure to be sickening.

… And a few other highlights Alyssa’s Secret Magic Moments with Monique Heart Trixie and Katya Save the World Fashion Photo RuView (TWENTY seasons!)

Becoming Chaz When the Beat Drops The Last Beekeeper Footage from RuPaul’s DragCon Drag Tots A whole section of beauty and fashion content So, how do you get your hands on all this sickening content? You can subscribe from just £3.49 a month, or £35.99 a year (gagworthy!) to get full access to stream whenever and wherever you want. Visit wowpresentsplus.com to get your hands on this deal – before they realise how good it is!

LONDON RUNWAY

N-ue Jewellery

Images via Lone Design Club

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LONDON RUNWAY

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STUDIOÂ PIA Images via Lone Design Club

KORN TAYLOR: SUPERHEROES #AW20 COLLECTION Korn Taylor is a Milan-based fashion designer who creates eccentric yet sophisticated gowns for young girls and women, and dapper-looking boys wear and men's fashion. For this Fall/Winter 2020 collection, Korn Taylor took his inspiration from Superheroes which symbolize strength and being invincible. He believes that these child models need to visualize themselves and to show to people that no matter what obstacle in life, we have to be stronger and work harder to achieve our dreams.

He showcased his latest Superheroes collection at the Ikonic Kids Fashion Show during London Fashion Week last Fall/Winter 2020 powered by House of Ikons and produced by Lady K Production with Founder CEO Savita Kaye.

Models: Vivienne Monique, Miss L, Vlad Vatavu, Lara Gorman, Alessandro Violante, Ellie Baldwin, Gwenette Burgos, Mattia Damasco, Brenda De Castro, Francesco Spallotta, Eleonora Mannazzu and Alessia Casiere Fashion Designer: Korn Taylor @korn_taylor MUA: Jackie Den Heijer Team @jackieavalon Hair: Missy O'Daniel Team @missyodanielhair Photographer: RamEagle Photoworks @ram.eagle Media Director: March Joseph Rosales @mjr_wedding_studios Show host: House of Ikons @house_of_ikons_official

Vlad Vatavu

Vivienne Monique

Alessandro Violante

Mattia Damasco

Miss L

Ellie Baldwin

Brenda De Castro

Lara Gorman

Gwenette Burgos

Francesco Spallotta

FLASHBACK: SHRIMPS AW19 Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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LONDON RUNWAY

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FLASHBACK: PUSH BUTTON AW19 Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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LONDON RUNWAY

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LONDON RUNWAY

YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice brings you brands that give back! Every brand or clothing item mentioned donates either some proceeds or clothing items to designated charities and communities in need.

Aries March 21 - April 20

The passionate and vocal Aries will thrive in this Roland Mouret x The Circle collaboration T-shirt. 100% of the profits from this shirt will be donated directly to The Circle, which promotes equality for women and girls by connecting and empowering them across the globe.

Taurus April 21 - May 21 This Hallie Jumpsuit in military olive by Elegantees features a tie-front cinched waist sash with flat pockets as a bonus!

Cute and sustainable, the brand fights sex trafficking by donating their proceeds to charities in Nepal and hiring workers there with positive, livable wages while educating them on independence and confidence.

Gemini May 22- June 21

Get your bright, quirky rain boots for the coming rainy days to come in London! This Chelsea Matte Mustard Rain Boots by Roma is completely waterproof and stylish. Every pair of Roma boots purchased is a pair of boots donated to impoverished children around the world.

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LONDON RUNWAY

Cancer June 22- July 22 Sevenly’s Single Act of Kindness Reusable 2-ply Cotton Mask is great for protecting the comfort-loving Cancer. Sevenly donates 100% of their net profits to charities of your choice, so this community-loving sign will definitely appreciate this added bonus.

Leo July 23- August 21

These stylish Pala sunglasses empower communities by working with a Ghanaian-based NGO supporting weaving communities and providing grants to eye-care programmes in Africa. The Pendo Maple design encapsulates the fierceness of any standout Leo.

Virgo August 22- September 23

FEED’s functional accessories and home goods provide meals to children in need. The amount of meals provided is dependent on the item purchased and is displayed on the listings. The Harriet Tote doesn’t only hold all of Virgo’s necessities, it also donates 100 meals!

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LONDON RUNWAY

Libra September 24- October 23 As the original “One for one” company, Toms is renowned for their philanthropy, and they’ve recently kickstarted their Global Giving initiative as well. This Mint Green Canvas Women’s Classic Toms doesn’t only help radiate the natural sensitivity of Libra’s, but it’ll also be a direct contribution to a pair of shoes and grants to someone in need.

Scorpio October 24- November 22 The Kappa Wood Watch by WeWood is the perfect fit for the stoic and charismatic Scorpio. Every WeWood purchase is a tree planted, so get your eyewear or watch from this environmentally-conscious brand.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Every Gandys purchase goes directly to funding a new kids camp either in Sri Lanka, Malawi, Brazil or Nepal. With this Khaki Slate Authentic Bali backpack by them, the travelling Sagittarius can feel at ease with their conscientious purchase!

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LONDON RUNWAY

Capricorn December 23- January 20

10% of net profits is donated to Save the Elephants and other causes at Ivory Ella.

With this Childhood Cancer Oversized Long Sleeve T-Shirt, 100% of net profits will be donated to CC-TDI (Children’s Cancer Therapy Development Institute.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 This 300 Performance Sports Bra will keep the free-spirited Aquarius active and supported while supporting essential care workers in developing nations. A Figs purchase means a pair of scrubs donated.

Pisces February 20 - March 20

Made from sustainably sourced seaweed from Iceland, this Seaweed Fiber Classic Tank is the ideal blank canvas for the imaginative Pisces.

Pangaia donates to a plethora of organisations and charitable causes as well as a tree planted for every purchase to effectively store CO2.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

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RETROSPECTIVE DIOR AT THE V&A Did you miss the Dior exhibition at the V&A last year?

Here we bring you an inside look at the amazing garments that were on display.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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LONDON RUNWAY

#TAGYOURMODELS

Rhiannon D’Averc explains a new London Runway initiative designed to raise awareness about fair representation for models.

hours per issue tracking down the names of the models we covered from the show. But that’s the problem. You see, most fashion brands don’t name or tag their models in any way.

In the past few years, London Runway has always worked hard towards three goals: sustainability, equality, and representation. To us, each of these pillars of our magazine are just as important, and that’s why you will always see full shoot credits with our editorials as well as with the images we share and the writing in our pages.

It’s not uncommon to see a fashion brand post in which a whole host of people are tagged: the creative designer’s own account, the hair stylist and makeup team, any other brands who collaborated in putting the show together, sponsors, casting directors, and all of the rest. Why, then, are models so frequently left off the list?

If you follow us @londonrunwaymag on Instagram, you’ll know that we love to share pages from each issue, making sure to tag whoever was involved with creating the content. But there’s always been one thing that hasn’t sat easy with us: tagging models from catwalk shows.

Let’s get real. Models aren’t paid well.

Unless you manage to land a great agency and get very frequent work, you can’t make this into a full-time living.

Yes, there are those models who gain enough of a following and a reputation to start bagging big payments. Often, we know these models by name, because they become famous in their own right.

Crediting models on Instagram isn’t hard to do: it just requires to search for their name and add it one time. For some brands, this is already part of their routine, and they’re happy to do it. For others, we instead have to spend time trawling through tagged posts, doing detective work to try to figure out the names and handles of the models in each shot.

But the average model walking the

Representation is important. At London

Why? It’s not because we don’t think they should be credited. In fact, we often go out of our way – spending

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runway at a show for, say, Fashion Scout, isn’t going to be paid well enough to make a living. They walk in shows for the buzz, for their passion, and for the exposure – they know their images will be taken by dozens of photographers and shared in magazines, newspapers, and on social media. But when you’ve gone through a gruelling day of preparation, rehearsals, and the rush of the walk, and barely been paid at all, only to see that you haven’t been credited for your work – isn’t that a kick in the teeth?

LONDON RUNWAY we'll be checking in on the hashtag from time to time to see who needs reminding of good manners.

It’s 2020, and creatives of all kinds within the fashion industry rely on platforms like Instagram to help them grow their careers. Let’s stop leeching off the work of others and start giving credit where credit’s due.

If you want to take part in our #tagyourmodels campaign, follow us on Instagram @londonrunwaymag and call out anyone who isn’t doing their bit!

Images and illustrations via Canva

Runway, we don’t believe that any one person is less valuable when it comes to putting a show together. Everyone has their part to play. That’s why, when we began recording episodes of our podcast – London Runway Style – we added a credit section at the end of each episode. We read out the names of the makeup and hair team, the choreographer, the creative heads, and so on – and we also read out the names of the models, in order of their appearance, where possible.

You may already have seen the #tagyourmodels campaign that we started some time ago, as a gut reaction to not being able to find the names of models. If we put up a post where we can’t find the names of the models pictured, we always appreciate any information that other viewers can give us to try to track them down. And when we can’t find anything at all, we’re not shy about adding a note to our stories that the brand needs to step up and #tagyourmodels as soon as possible.

This has highlighted for us even more the fact that some models seem almost impossible to track down. Sometimes it’s only the agency that gets credited, and at other times there are no model credits at all. We’re calling on all brands that hold physical fashion shows to credit their models – to make sure that the people advertising their clothes get that recognition and fair representation.

Now we’re accelerating this campaign, pushing it to the fore of our minds as we approach what will hopefully be a new London Fashion Week in September. If you feel as passionately as we do that people should be recognised for their work, then please join us in simply reminding brands to #tagyourmodels if they haven’t done so. All it takes is a quick comment below the post, and

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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

WHO'S THE ONE PERSON YOU CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT?

&

"Mom"

- Adam and Alice, designer

"My mum!! She's everything"

- Kemi Adefolalu, model

“MY DAD!! HE IS MY STRENGTH.” – Prerna Alreja , Business student.

“My husband, who puts up with everything and helps in so many small ways every day” - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

My husband and my Wienerdog.

They always put a smile on my face when I need it the most.

– Saskia - Makeup Artist

“WHAT AN EASY QUESTION! MY WIFE.” - Gopalkrishna, Engineer

“I would not want to have to live without my wife. For a number of reasons my life would be more difficult if she wasn't around..”

- Stephen Whitehead, writer

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

NEXT: THE LFW ISSUE THE TOGETHER ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT GFW BY FIL MAZZARINO