Issue 55 - The Bonfire Issue by London Runway

DESIGN COMPETITION . SLOW FASHION 101 . ECO FASHION TIPS . CATWALK FALLS . GET PAID FOR MODELLING

LONDON HAT WEEK . GRADUATE FASHION FOUNDATION . SBCHALLENGE . JAMIE WEI HUANG . HOUSE OF IKONS

ISSUE 55 27TH OCTOBER 2020

THE BONFIRE ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer:Â Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Maria Henry, Cicilia Brognoli, Grace Pickford, Cheyanne Greig-Andrews, Darcey Sergison Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Hundred Showroom, Pop PR, Hannah S. Lewis, Sidrah Sardar, Sassy Freak, Jared Rehal, Ram Eagle Photoworks, Vivienne Monique, Korn Taylor, Ninah Aguila, Zoe Marigo, Marina, Nikki Olivier, Mariangela Gagliardo-Marskell, Looking Lush Styling Service, Aurora Marskell, Nailya Zyabirova, Helen Savina, Julia Anisimova, Mario Loprete, Seeun Kim, House of iKons, Mambo Key, Laura Monteiro Brandt Manzoni, Sabine Klemens, Christoph Klemens, Maria Julia De Araujo Dias, Nila Costa, Bianca Cristina Paulino, Ange Harper, Kathleen Humberstone, Sylvia Mac, Kirpal Bhogal, Dan Clarke, Louise Hunt, Glenn Cockerill, Anne Wafula Strike, Larissa Mariano, Marina Sempaio, Delaney Lux, Divine Harmony Performance Arts, Juliette Anthony, Matthew Edick, Lily Mills, Mellina Hernandes Reis, Renato Durval, Kelly Knox, Sylvia Szyplik Special thanks to Samanta Bullock

Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Advertising department Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

ÂŠ 2020, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

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CONTENTS

VISUALS

WORDS

Manimekala - Meet Me at the Mahal; 8 Sorapol - Juggernaut; Monique Singh

Design December

Playtime (Cover Editorial)

New Faces

Portfolio Piece

Announcing the Launch of London 7 Runway's Second-Hand Competition Everything You Want to Know About Slow Fashion

TikTok's Skincare Revolution

7 Apps That Help You Find Alternative Sustainable Brands to Your Faves

The Silla Collection 100 - Seeun Kim 44 House of iKons Fashion Week London Sept 2020 Digital Show; Jamie Wei Huang; Misa Harada

The Biggest Catwalk Stumbles Ever

Style (Conscious) Guide: Warm Around the Fire

Book Club: Intimations by Zadie Smith

Phoenix Rising (Editorial) #SBChallenge

The Best Podcasts for SecondHand Fashion Lovers

The X Terrace London Hat Week Exhibition

86 Your Style Horoscope

111

Love Under Candlelight (Editorial)

Where to Find Paid Modelling Work

124

Graduate Fashion Foundation

101 The Big Question

126

Fashion Show Live

115

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l As I write this letter, we’re facing the first socially-distanced Halloween. The festive season is not that far behind, and with no sign of the pandemic abating, it looks like we can continue to expect more of the same in the foreseeable future.

sustainability goals, we’ve got loads of it for you in this issue. We’re talking about how to shop sustainably right from your bedroom with plenty of app options, as well as the podcasts you can listen to in order to understand more about your choices.

How do we stay upbeat and positive at a time like this? Things are changing constantly around us, and so it’s easy to let little things drop. We might not be as concerned about shopping sustainably when a big flash sale pops up in our inbox, or so worried about keeping brands accountable when we’re focusing on whatever new rules the government might have just released overnight (and trying to figure out if we actually understand them).

All of this ties in quite nicely with our ongoing Second-Hand October challenge. We love Second-Hand September, but we really want to push that approach as an all-year-round mentality. Buying second-hand clothes or choosing sustainable retailers will help the health of our planet, and since we have to live on it, we’ll feel the benefits directly.

Well, if you feel like you need some inspiration to stay on track with your

There are only a few days left in October before we choose the winner, but make sure to flip forward a few pages for all the details so you can still enter.

We’re also announcing another competition in this issue. If you’re a budding graphic designer, we’d love to see what you’ve got! Anyone is welcome to enter, whether you’ve been working in a design-related field for a decade or you’ve never even tried it before. The important thing is that we need you to be creative and show us your best designs – all of the details are on the next page! Stay with us on social media (@londonrunwaymag) and by reading our digital or physical issues, which you can always purchase at londonrunway.co.uk. We’ve got not just this competition but also a lot more challenges and events coming up over the winter months and beyond – no matter what your discipline, there’s going to be something for you. Don’t miss out on the chance to win! Until next time, Enjoy -

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

COMPETITIONS, SNEAK PEEKS, OPPORTUNITIES TO BE FEATURED, BEHIND THE SCENES SHOTS AND FOOTAGE, LIVE COVERAGE OF EVENTS, AND MORE...!

LONDON RUNWAY

DESIGN

DECEMBER

London Runway Graphic Design Competition ABOUT

WHO CAN SUBMIT

HOW IT WORKS

As the holidays slowly creep up on us, we are onto our next monthly event, our Graphic Design Competition. Enter for a chance to be featured on the front cover of our December issue, The Gold Issue, with your stunning designs!

This is for the innovative creatives and aspiring graphic designers. If you think you’ve got what it takes or just want a chance to showcase your artful creations and receive feedback from us, submit away!

The competition will span over the course of two issues with only two rounds total! The winner will then get to design a cover for Issue 57, The Gold Issue, released on the 27th of December. This will be a festive issue to round off the year with your works on display!

FIRST ROUND: FASHION HOUSE PORTFOLIO SUBMISSION In the first round, create a design that will convince a notable fashion house to hire you! This can include a quirky fashion design that’s aesthetically laid out and framed or a runway advert for an upcoming show. Let your creativity run free and wild to impress big brands and designers, such as Stella McMcartney or Bora Aksu! Those who pass the first round will be notified personally through email of their acceptance into the second round of the competition with more details to follow.

Requirements: Must be fashion related (fashion designing, fashion marketing, street fashion, luxury fashion and more!) Must be your own work and design (no copyrighted works or images) Must source anything used as an element (font, illustration, etc) Must include description and explanation of design along with submission Submit contact information along with detailed explanation to be contacted if accepted into the second round Format should be .jpg or .png, with files no larger than 2000px on the longest side Keep in Mind: Read through the full guidelines and make sure to fulfill all the requirements. If you have a pre-existing design, that can also be submitted as long as it is not copyrighted to another magazine or unable to go to print. Don’t hold back, and design to impress! Stay true to your own artistic flair as we are looking for the most innovative and visually vocal designs to showcase to our readers!

YOU CAN SUBMIT VIA OUR WEBSITE HERE: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/DESIGN-DECEMBER PAGE 5

LONDON RUNWAY

SECOND ROUND: PROMPT-BASED COVER DESIGN We want you to channel your unique creativity and flair from the previous round into the finals, a prompt-based design around a mock image! We will be providing the key photograph, but keep in mind that this image will be a substitute image for the actual design of the December cover! You will need to submit your designs by no later than November 15. The works of the semi-finalists will be published in our November issue and also on our Facebook page for a public vote where the most liked designs will be the winner!.

Keep in Mind: Read the prompts and requirements thoroughly and make sure that your design hits all of the criteria. We will be providing the image for you to design around. The mock image will be later replaced by the final image used in the December issue, so design with that in mind.

*There will be more specific requirements that will be detailed in the email sent out to you personally.

THE WINNER: PRIZES AND MORE! The winner will receive the image intended for use as the December issue cover, which will be a lush photoshoot taken especially for the festive nature of the issue, to finalise their winning layout. Their design will be published on the front cover of The Gold Issue for our diverse, fashion-loving readers in time for the holidays!

The winner will also receive:

A SPECIAL ART PRINT VERSION OF THEIR WINNING ISSUE COVER TO IMMORTALISE THEIR WORK A FREE COPY OF ISSUE 57, THE GOLD ISSUE A LONDON RUNWAY POPSOCKET AND LOGO STICKERS

SO... WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? Submit your designs now for this amazing opportunity! We will be personally looking at everybody’s submissions*, so don’t be shy and show us what you’ve got!

*You are allowed to only enter the competition once. Multiple entries will be disregarded once they are either accepted through to the next round or rejected.

YOU CAN SUBMIT VIA OUR WEBSITE HERE: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/DESIGN-DECEMBER PAGE 6

LONDON RUNWAY

ANNOUNCING THE LAUNCH OF LONDON RUNWAY’S SECONDHAND COMPETITION We believe that wearing second-hand clothes is not something that should be exclusive to September. Therefore, we announced the launch of our secondhand competition running throughout October. There's just a few days left after this issue's launch to take part, but there's still time - read on for how! Second-hand clothing is a great way to break the chain of fast fashion by recycling and upcycling vintage clothes. Running the whole of October, we want you to show us your best second-hand outfits. Whether it is a vintage coat from your Nan’s wardrobe or a denim coat from your local charity shop, we want to see it!

STAND OUT OF THE CROWD BY STYLING SECOND-HAND CLOTHES! If you have always wanted to feature in a fashion magazine now is your chance. By supporting the wearing of second-hand clothing not only are you choosing to support a sustainable lifestyle, but you can also look stylish while helping environmental and social justice.

To enter our competition, tag your second-hand outfits using the hashtag

#LRsecondhand Your outfits do not need to be head to toe in second-hand clothes but you will need at least one second-hand item in the outfit and be sure to mention this in your caption. If you are in need of some inspiration check out the latest article in Issue 54 which gives advice on great items to thrift from charity shops and thrift stores. The winner will be the person sharing the most daily second-hand outfits during October. So don’t forget to delve through your wardrobe to be in with a chance to win some amazing prizes. The winner will receive a newly launched London Runway popsocket, logo stickers, and a copy of the November issue. Not only will this issue be in print, but it will also feature a selection of the winner’s photos. This is a great opportunity to demonstrate how second-hand clothes are equally as stylish, but also unique, in comparison to fast fashion pieces.

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This is an exciting new competition and we cannot wait to see your entries, which we hope will inspire and foster lots of creativity within our community. Be sure to check out #LRsecondhand for competition posts to inspire your own wardrobe and don’t forget - the more daily posts the better to be in for a chance to win!

Text by Darcey Sergison

LONDON RUNWAY

MANIMEKALA MEET ME AT THE MAHAL

Manimekala's SS21 collection is interspersed with images of the women who made it. Photographs via Hundred Showroom

LONDON RUNWAY

SORAPOL: JUGGERNAUT Photographs via Pop PR

LONDON RUNWAY

MONIQUE SINGH Photographs via Pop PR

LONDON RUNWAY

EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT SLOW FASHION LONDON RUNWAY

In this article Cheyanne explores the world of slow fashion, revealing everything you need and want to know about this recent phenomenon. Sustainability has been a hot topic in the fashion industry recently. New terms seem to be popping up every day - from slow fashion to eco attire and circular fashion. Trying to navigate this new ethical paradigm can send your head spinning. So I’ve broken down the most important information to help you better understand “slow fashion” and integrate this knowledge the next time you are on the hunt for a new wardrobe item. To understand slow fashion, it is essential to grasp what “fast fashion” is. From the time of the industrial revolution, the modern western world has been focused on efficiency, innovation, and capital gain. Over time this led to what we now call fast fashion. Fast fashion essentially refers to the production chain in the garment industry which has for some time been pumping out disposable garments for low prices to keep shoppers buying new clothes season after season. According to Fashion Hedge, “fast fashion retailers have been very successful at acquiring consumers not only because they compete in price but because they bring the latest catwalk trends to the mainstream consumer very shortly after celebrities”. The problem is that this often leads to shady manufacturing practices. From

overseas garment makers working in inhumane conditions, to the environmental impact of unregulated manufacturing, fast fashion has some serious side effects. The allure of cheap and fashionable clothes led to fast fashion as the norm. However, that is all changing.

SUSTAINABLE FASHION

Slow fashion is a principle that arose as a reaction to the fast fashion garment industry. The main principles of slow fashion fall under three categories; good, clean, and fair. The term was first coined in 2007 in an article by Kate Fletcher in the Ecologist where she states, “The concept of slow fashion borrows heavily from the Slow Food Movement. Founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy in 1986, Slow Food links pleasure and food with awareness and responsibility.” Good quality, clean production that doesn’t harm the environment, and fair conditions and pay for producers. These are the cornerstones of the slow fashion movement.

This refers to materials used that are not made from animal products. However, this moralistic sticker does not necessarily equate to slow fashion. A brand can still have very much ingrained fast fashion practices and still use the label vegan.

What is the difference between sustainable, vegan, ethical, or slow fashion labels? Slow fashion is such a new phenomenon there are no clear cut definitions for any of these terms and there is often a great deal of overlap. Despite the ever-changing nature of these evolving terms it does help to shed light on how brands may be using them and for what cause. Let us break down some key definitions from the slow fashion world.

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The main goal of sustainable fashion is to create systems in garment production which can be supported indefinitely. This means the long-term production will not harm humans, the environment, or society.

VEGAN FASHION

ETHICAL FASHION Ethical fashion describes a certain level of transparency about manufacturing processes which fast fashion companies do not let their consumers in on. This trend emerged after a rise in reports and evidence about shady practices by many big-name brands. As a way to change this pattern in fast fashion, ethical brands began to emerge, allowing their customers a clear view of how and where their garments are made.

CIRCULAR FASHION “Defined as clothes, shoes or accessories that are designed, sourced, produced and provided with the intention to be used and circulate responsibly and effectively in society for as long as possible in their most valuable form, and hereafter return safely to the biosphere when no longer of human use.” (Anna Brismar, Green Strategy, 2017)

LONDON RUNWAY ECO FASHION Refers to fashion produced in ways that don’t harm the environment. This may be done by using recycled materials, or materials which have been grown without the use of pesticides. To confidently know if a brand is truly sustainable you will need to do a bit of research. If a brand or designer is ethically producing garments they will typically be very clear on their website as to where their textiles come from, how their garments are produced, and what their goals are as a sustainable company. Recently the fashion world celebrated “Second-Hand September”, a further attempt to popularize the notion of slow fashion. This trend caught on quickly with many people using the hashtag #secondhandseptember to show their support (and their cute outfits) for the cause. Shopping second hand is a great way to shop sustainably. With so many garments pumped out by the fast fashion industry, the charity shops or online selling platforms are often filled with great finds from your favourite labels. The best way we can all create change within the garment industry is by adjusting our consumption patterns. By shifting your focus to buy quality staple items that will last years to come and pausing to think if you need yet another crew neck jumper are some simple ways everyone can make a change for the better. Another great way to help the slow fashion movement is by revamping old clothes. You would be

surprised how adding a trim down the side of your trousers, or changing the buttons on your jacket can completely change a garment. Part of the new slow fashion paradigm is also being a responsible consumer. This means taking the time to look into where your garments come from instead of just buying for speed and convenience. Tons of great brands have been trailblazers in the slow fashion movement and this is certainly only becoming more common.

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From brands and designers to retailers and consumers; we all play a role in creating a new normal within the fashion industry. With a few good intentions and a clear message; together we can create a sustainable, fashionable, and healthy world where fast fashion is a thing of the past.

If you enjoyed this article and want to discover more of Cheyanne’s work you can follow her @thelondonhippie Photos via Pixabay

PLAYTIME Photography - Rhiannon D'Averc @pcistudio

Photography Assistant: Jared Rehal @dendrocronology Model: Hannah S. Lewis @hannah_lewis29 Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist:Â Sidrah Sardar @sidrahmakeup Accessories: Sassy Freak @__sassyfreak You voted for her... Hannah is our Face of London Runway 2020 for womenswear!

TIKTOK'S SKINCARE REVOLUTION This issue, Maria Henry explores the trials and tribulations of the TikTok skincare community. Who can you trust and what should you buy?

If you’re anything like me, you probably spent a lot of your lockdown franticly scrolling through TikTok looking for something to do. During this time, you may have stumbled across 'skincare TikTok', a community of online users interested in skincare and improving

the overall health and appearance of skin. In this article we’ll dive into the wonderful world of TikTok skincare, taking a look at specific trends that you may have seen taking over your ‘for you page’ and testing which products are actually worth the online hype. KOREAN SKINCARE Korean skincare has been a longstanding internet fascination. With an emphasis on improving the health of your skin to improve appearance, rather than just covering flaws, Korean skincare has become a fixture of many celebrity self-care routines. Known primarily for its elusive seven-step routine and for being a favourite amongst K-pop idols, K-beauty has recently found a new home on TikTok. K-beauty TikTokers like @thruhelenslens recommend a range of products to help you get the classic dewy Korean ‘glass skin’ look. She recommends double cleansing, beginning by using the Krave Beauty Matcha Hemp Hydrating Cleanser, priced at £16 (cruelty-free, vegan and fragrance-free!) and the Cosrx Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser, priced at £12 (cruelty-free and fragrance-free). She also suggests using a Toner and a Vitamin Serum, following this up with a moisturiser, eye cream, a lip mask and finishing with the most important product – sunscreen.

Images via Unsplash, Instagram and Canva

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Fellow K-beauty guru @Glowwithava also recommends a daily skincare routine to get perfect glowing, dewy skin. She recommends going with toner pads, Sulwhasoo Serum (a serum made with medicinal herbs) and then a radiance concentrate mixed with a BB cream to get the classic glass skin no-makeup-makeup look.

SKINCARE BY HYRAM One name that seems to have been floating around the internet these past few months is Hyram. The ‘skincare king’ of TikTok, Hyram went viral a couple of months ago for his videos recommending affordable products that could help clear up your skin. His success was huge with products he recommended selling out of stores across the UK within hours, and there’s even an Amazon shopping page with his approved products ready to be shopped by fans. Though this all sounds great, how reliable is Hyram as a dermatologist? Well, he’s not actually a dermatologist at all. Despite not having a medical or cosmetic background Hyram identifies himself as being a skincare junkie, trialling products out of sheer love for skincare. Though this may lead you to think his suggestions are less well-informed, there has been a lot of love for Hyram from people who like the fact he recommends everyday, affordable products rather than the super expensive, inaccessible products that so many internet dermatologists attempt to plug to their audiences.

The TikTok platform also allows him to interact more closely with his fans, reacting to their skincare routines and recommending them more products. Now with a whopping 6.4 million follower count and over 229.2 million likes on TikTok, Hyram seems to be a fixture of skincare that isn’t going anywhere, anytime soon.

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TO BE OR CERAVE? One product range that seems to be all over TikTok is the Canadian based skincare company CeraVe. CeraVe launched in 2006 with only three products – a moisturising cream, a lotion and a hydrating cleanser. These were all developed by dermatologists with the intentions of creating an affordable product that can be used to “hydrate, protect and replenish skin”. CeraVe has now grown into a huge multi-national brand, with a product range suitable for a diverse range of skin types. The brand has some rave reviews, with people claiming that their products cleared up their skin within a matter of days. The products are all fragrance-free, paraben-free, allergytested, non-comedogenic (meaning they won’t be too heavy and block pores) and their special Ceramide fuelled formula makes it ideal for helping dry skin get some moisture. However, as easy as it is to get dragged in by the glowing reviews, there are a few issues with CeraVe as a brand. A huge negative to CeraVe is that they are not cruelty-free and do test their products on animals. They also do not use sustainable packaging, meaning if you are trying to reduce your environmental impact, they may not be the brand for you. Although their prices are low and reviews are strong, the ethical implications of them as a brand are something to weigh up before investing in their products. ALL YOU CAN FACE The aptly named @allyoucanface TikTok channel offers a new perspective on skincare – movement. Company founder Anastasia believes that you can begin to fight wrinkles, dull skin, and even asymmetry of the face with facial exercise alone. On her website she claims that working out the facial muscles stimulates blood cell circulation, leading to increased production of collagen and faster cell renewal. This in turn leads to youngerlooking, fresher feeling, glowing skin. Anastasia also claims that exercising these muscles will reduce sagging skin and wrinkles as the facial muscles become toned and strong. This can also help facial asymmetry, as people learn to target the “weaker sides” of their face and build up their muscles. Though this all sounds promising, the question is raised – is it worth it?

A couple of positives to this alternative skincare are that it's sustainable (you’re not buying any physical products, therefore not creating any waste) and it’s completely natural, with no actual products needed to go onto your skin. The major negative is that it’s a slow process. Like any other type of musclebuilding, it’s very time consuming and it will most likely be a very long time before you see any actual results. Though Anastasia does offer a 3-week course priced at $90, it’s unlikely you’d see results until a few months in, and after that, it’s up to you to maintain.

Conclusion To conclude, there are a LOT of products out there being pushed towards us online. It’s difficult to know who to trust and what the right thing for your skin will be when there’s

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such an overwhelming amount of content out there. The easiest way to know if a product will be helpful for you is to do your research before you purchase. Look into what it contains, what are the ingredients? Will they be safe for your skin type? Beware of excess oils and fragrances, additives and parabens. You should also always look at reviews from multiple sources, don’t just take one influencers word for it! Everyone’s skin is different and with the thousands of products out there, it’s difficult to choose the right ones. This is where online skincare communities such as on TikTok are helpful in introducing you to new products, testing them for you and opening channels of communication between specialists and those seeking advice. If you enjoyed this article you can find more of Maria’s work @mariawriteshere on Twitter.

Zoe wears: Jumper - Karen Millen @KARENMILLEN

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: ZOE Name: Zoe Marigo Age: 21 Location: London/Milan Agency: Freelance

Zoe wears: Coat - Loden @LODEN Zoe wears: Jumper PRIMARK @PRIMARK

What would surprise people to know about you? Hmm, that’s a tricky one! I guess, that I’m gay? People always seem to be very surprised at that one!

How long have you been modelling for? I got my first professional job when I was 16 but then never really pursued it further! Now it’s been a couple of years that I’ve got back into it. Where are you from originally?I’m mixed race (Italian/Indian) but grew up between London and Padova. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can cry on cue, not sure if that qualifies!

What are your modelling ambitions? I would love to start paving the way for more equal representation within the modelling industry, especially BAME models like myself. Keep breaking the unreachable beauty stereotype of the perfect body. And maybe manage to be represented by a top modelling agency!? That would definitely be amazing.

Photographer: Marina Tsaregorodtseva @Oh_marfuta; Model @zoemarigo

Zoe wears: Jumper PRIMARK @PRIMARK; Jeans - Pull&Bear @PULL&BEAR

Zoe wears: Jumper PRIMARK - @PRIMARK

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: AURORA Name: Aurora Marskell Age: 11 Location: Queensland, Australia Agency: Currently looking for the perfect fit agency - so currently freelance How long have you been modelling for? 4 years Where are you from originally? I’m Italian of origin, but i live in Australia Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I freak my friends out by going crossed eyes and then moving only one eye ball side to side while staring at them with the other!

What would surprise people to know about you? I look like a girly girl but i'm not really. I'm competitive and I can rumble and be a tomboy with the best of them... I just might look pretty doing it... not my fault!! I actually have a sense of humour and a killer stare I'm as much yin as I am a yang! What are your modelling ambitions? I've wanted to be a super model for years now - I love runway and being at New York, Paris and London Fashion Week has only reinforced my ambition. I loved walking at those prestigious events. I would absolutely want to be the next Gigi Hadid or Kaia Gerber or like the original supermodels of the 90s.

Photographer: Nikki Olivier @Nikki_oliver; Manager: Mariangela GagliardoMarskell @aurora_marskell; Makeup Artist: Looking Lush Styling Service @Lookinglushstylingservice; Model: Aurora Marskell @aurora_marskell

Aurora wears: "Candy Fur" Long Jacket (faux fur) - @imoimokids; Blouse - @temtau; Shoes @blowfishmalibu; Bag - Love Moschino by Moschino; Jeans @bluespicejeans

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: NAILYA Name: Nailya Zyabirova Age: 26 Location: Saint Petersburg, Russia Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 1 year

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I do eyelash extensions What are your modelling ambitions? I would like to become the face of a famous brand

Where are you from originally? I’m from Russia, Saint-Petersburg

Photographer: Helen Savvina @Bloly.ph Wardrobe Stylist: Julia Anisimova @Bogemskaia_fucsia Model: Nailya Zyabirova @_nel_zya_

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IN CEMENTO VERITAS Artist: MARIO LOPRETE @marioloprete Painting for me is the first love. An important, pure love. The sculpture is my lover, my artistic betrayal to the painting. That voluptuous and sensual lover that gives me different emotions, that touches prohibited cords… Reinforced cement, concrete, was created two thousand years ago by the Romans. It has a story made of amphitheaters, bridges, and roads that have conquered the ancient and modern world. Now it’s a synonym of modernity. Everywhere you go and you find a concrete wall, there’s the modern man in there.

The next step was obvious for me. If man brought art on the streets in order to make it accessible to everyone, why not bring the urban in galleries and museums? It was the winning step to the continuous evolutionary process of my work. When the painting has completely dried off, I brush it with a substance that not only manages to unite every color and shade, but it also gives to the art work the shininess and lucidity of a poster. For my Concrete Sculptures I use my personal clothing. Throughout some artistic process, in which I use plaster, resin, and cement, I transform them into artworks to hang. My memory, my DNA, my memories remain concreted inside, transforming the person that looks at the artworks into a type of post-modern archeologist that studies my works as if they were urban artefacts.

portfolio piece

7 APPS THAT HELP YOU FIND ALTERNATIVE SUSTAINABLE BRANDS TO YOUR FAVES Grace Pickford explains how you can find great sustainable shopping options, right from your phone.

find more sustainable brands so that you can keep a guilt-free love for fashion.

Fashion provides sanctuary, imagination, and power to people all over the world. Fashion is identity, voice, and expression.

Good On You

However, fast-fashion practices are becoming increasingly known for their destructive impacts on the environment, and human rights.

Good On You is a search tool app that allows you to discover how sustainable your favourite brands are in their practices.

This year it was published that the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of carbon dioxide emissions worldwide each year, as well as for using an estimated 1.5 trillion litres of water.

The app grades brands on a scale from ‘We Avoid’ to ‘Great’ and suggests alternatives with similar styles that have a better sustainability rating for you to try.

Knowledge surrounding ethical and sustainable fashion practices is the strongest weapon that can be provided.

The app was founded by Sandra Capponi and Gordon Renouf in 2013, and launched initially in Australia in 2015.

We have collated seven apps that you can install today which will help you to

“Wear the change you want to see”.

It is now the biggest of its kind and is

supported by activist and actress Emma Watson who praises the app: “Good On You is my benchmark for sustainable fashion. This means that when I’m given a platform to speak about my choice of outfit, I will have a meaningful story to tell. And it’s powerful.” Good On You provides consumers with a choice and enlightens people with transparency and truth. It is to be noted that if a brand does not disclose a lot of information regarding their practises and environmental values then Good On You will grade them lower. The app’s rating system takes into account a brand’s human rights abuses, waste, and pollution. They research a brand’s effects on their workers throughout the chain of supply. As stated on their website, this includes “policies and practices on child labour, forced labour, worker safety, freedom of association (the right to join a union), gender equality and payment of a living wage.” They consider how far a brand empowers its workers and what freedoms they have. Good On You also considers a brand’s waste and how they monitor their use of energy, emissions of carbon, and disposal of chemicals. The app further researches if a brand uses animal products and what their welfare policies are.

Think Dirty Think Dirty was established by Lily Tse in 2012. Tse created the app after discovering how toxic chemicals in cosmetic products can be linked to cancer.

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LONDON RUNWAY

“Think Dirty® empowers and educates the consumer on the cosmetics industry by allowing them to make an informed decision on what products to purchase.” Using the app, you can scan beauty and healthcare products and discover the ingredients present in the product. The ingredients are listed using a traffic light system organising them into “Dirty”, “Half n Half’, or “Clean”. The rating is based entirely on the “chemical content” of products and the toxicity of their ingredients. There are currently 4500 brands in the system and 1.4 million products.

Renoon Renoon is an Amsterdam-based company that has created a search tool app that allows consumers to find

sustainable fashion alternatives to match both their ethical standards, and styles of choice. You can search for products by value (e.g. recycled, low impact on environment, organic), and by product type. “Renoon’s mission is to accelerate the transition towards a more sustainable fashion industry (currently more polluting to the planet than airline and transportation combined).” The co-founder and CEO of Renoon has stated that the motive behind the app was to allow people to continue enjoying fashion whilst preserving the environment. The app educates and raises awareness about the important issues in the fashion industry that need to be tackled by providing consumers with the choice to search for brands according to their values. The framework that Renoon uses to define sustainability is based around the

four key criteria of “product, earth, humanity and future.” They gather information on products and brands relating them to this model in order to establish their level of sustainability. The app does not sell clothes but recommends the best places for consumers to make their purchases.

Better World Shopper “A public research project for ethical consumers.” Better World Shopper is a project committed to making environmental and social data accessible to consumers in order to educate and inform them to help make change happen. The database holds information for over 2000 companies using 76 sources for data. The transparency provided by this information allows consumers to make choices based on their morals and decisions about where they put their money. The app classifies companies on the five categories of Human Rights, The Environment, Animal Protection, Community Involvement, and Social Justice. It scores all of the companies in the database from an A+ to an F. You can search for a specific company or by category to find the best rated brands for the products you are searching for. The app is an online manifestation of Dr Ellis Jones’ book The Better World Shopping Guide: an encyclopaedia of products organised for the ease of consumers to find the most sustainable

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and ethical options for not only clothing brands, but for many other categories of products including food, coffee, computers, and cars.

Faer Faer’s mission is to “create a shopping experience that is simple, transparent and sustainable.” Founded in 2017, the app was built by a team in Berlin, Germany, and is Euro based. However, it can still be used as a source of inspiration for discovering new fashion brands. The app has a clean, straightforward layout. The homepage is filled with fashion inspo all from sustainable brands that when selected show where the clothing items are from. You can search for specific categories and items of clothing to find sustainable options. There is also a tool that lets users take a screenshot of clothing from an app such as Instagram and Faer will find similar items that are from ethical and sustainable brands. If the app suggests a brand that you fall in love with, it will show you the locations where you can find this brand in your area.

Shopper in that it grades the companies in its database with an A to F based on the 5 core areas of human rights, environmental sustainability, social responsibility, political involvement, and economic fairness. There are 180 companies stored and organised A-Z and according to their rating, making it super easy to find more sustainable alternatives for your fave brands.

Eco Report Card

Fair Fashion?

“Transparency for ethical consumers”

Want to check if your favourite fashion brands are working towards more sustainable and ethical practices? Fair Fashion? grades brands on a scale from “Nothing To Say” meaning the brand did not provide information, “Dragging Their Feet”, “Could Do Better, “Some Effort”, “On The Way”, to “Doing Well” where brands are actively working to ensure a living wage to their workers.

Eco Report Card is like Better World

This app is not only a search tool but an informative hub for all of your fair fashion queries. There is information on what a living wage actually is, as well as a glossary for fair fashion terminology. The Fair Fashion? app was created by the Clean Clothes Campaign. The CCC is an international alliance whose goal is to empower people working within the fashion industries and to improve working conditions.

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If your resolution for 2021 is to be more sustainable and to find alternatives for your favourite fashion brands, check out these apps to find your perfect fit where the only cost is what is written on the price tag. Images via Unsplash, Pexels and Instagram

The Silla Collection 100 Seeun Kim

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I am a South Korean jeweller and metal craftsman.

Jewellery Designer: Seeun Kim @jewellery_studio_seeun

I trained in Japanese traditional handicraft skills and precious metals as an advanced specialist in Japan. Furthermore, as a Royal College of Art graduate, I have learnt a lot about metal craft while attending college in England.

Materials: Diverse natural gemstones and gold plated bronze.

I believe that the human hand is a gift from human evolution. Even though today there are advanced technologies, including the CAD and 3D printing industry, handicraft products have a rareness and beauty compared to massproduced manmade products. Moreover, there is an inexpressible complexity in the handicraft world that a machine cannot imitate. Thus, I have decided to develop my works more broadly by striking a balance between the tradition and the modern.

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THE BIGGEST CATWALK STUMBLES EVER This month Cicilia Brognoli presents an enjoyable review of catwalk falls. Have you ever seen a model falling while walking the catwalk? Probably yes, because as soon as someone slips in a fashion show, people share it. When this happens the unlucky fashion model falls virtually in a loop of videos and photos posted and reposted hundreds of times. Although these fashion professionals are trained to walk on very high heels, the slip is always around the corner. Falls are not very common, but there's a plentiful classification of tumbles divided by category. If relatively few people see the fall live, in the blink of an eye a huge digital audience sees it. A fair number of catwalks have welcomed the unexpected glide of a beautiful model.

The causes of such stumbles are many and even more are the ways to deal with this inconvenience. Finding yourself in the hit parade of the fall on the catwalk is certainly not the ambition of a model. However, the web is packed with articles and photos that immortalise the best slips of recent years. The real secret is not about avoiding a tumble, but dealing with it while continuing to walk flawlessly on the runway. Would you get angry or would you continue to walk the catwalk while maintaining impeccable aplomb? Here is a series of memorable falls. #UNFOLD YOUR WINGS Above all other shows, there is the famous annual event of the lingerie brand Victoria's Secret, which often sees

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its models (called 'Angels') spread their wings trying to avoid a ruinous stumble. The grace used by these girls to get up after a tumble is truly remarkable. Exemplary was Ming Xi who, in the 2017 show, tripped over the long skirt she was wearing, soon finding herself on the ground wrapped in the garment's train. In general, this show is challenging for the models given the colossal dimensions of the wings they wear or of other scenographic clothing. Heels trapped in the often glitterencrusted runway and narrowly avoided tumbles are the order of the day. Surely for the models, these moments create big stress, however for the public, they make these fashion goddesses much closer to mere mortals. How many of us have stumbled while wearing heels at least once?

#ZEN MOOD Returning to 2002, we have to mention the slip made by a model who was walking for Versace. The composure this girl had in falling seems unreal: the beautiful long ivory dress she was wearing ended up under her heel, dragging her to the ground in no time at all. Inexpressive look and iron aplomb, just a hand stretched towards the ground to cushion the fall.

#BIG LAUGHS Another slip and another reaction, but this time with a hilarious twist. During the 2008 Zac Posen show in New York, a model fell right after stepping on the runway. Certainly not a great start, but her reaction deserves a round of applause. The girl burst out laughing with amusement at this peculiar debut. After emerging from the tulle mountain of the gown she was wearing, she continued her walk with a big smile. #SHOE PROBLEMS High heels are one of the main causes of catwalk falls, and this is a fact. You learn by making mistakes they say, and the person in question has become a fashion goddess. We are talking about Naomi Campbell who, at the beginning of her international success, found herself upside down on a Vivienne Westwood catwalk. The model wore very high wedges in perfect Westwood style wrapped in a very long boa ready to undermine her balance.

She fell staggering left and right and then found herself on the ground. Six months ago, the model reposted her 1993 tumble on her Instagram profile. Take a look at the caption used for this post, a decidedly apt choice I would say. #MODEL RESCUE Congratulations to the responsiveness of the guests seated in the front row who immediately often jump close to the model to help her get up. This scene is seen very frequently when a model slips. Every fashion show has some good soul sitting in the front row ready to help the one spilled on the floor. If you found yourself in this situation, would you assist the model or laugh out loud? #IMPROVISED BOWS We are already in the fifth category of falls, it seems that catwalks are very slippery. That's what any model might think after she tumbles. In this category, however, there are those who fall into various kinds of bow. A curtsy even a little improvised is always better than an embarrassing pose ready to become an Instagram meme. Looking at the galleries of catwalk tumbles on the web, it seems you might be at the ballet more than at a fashion show, but well done for the graceful pose girls.

#VERSACE ON THE FLOOR The sighting of falls on the Versace catwalks is a bit poor. Although the brand has been showing for decades, we can only count two falls. The iron aplomb model we already mentioned, and another fall happened in 2011. During the Spring/Summer 2012 show a model about to return to the backstage, walking at full speed, ran into a nice stumble. Could this be what inspired Bruno Mars for his song Versace on The Floor? ... #WHAT AN ANNOYING DRESS! Gigi Hadid is one of the most popular supermodels of recent years, the idol of many girls and the face of countless advertising campaigns. In 2017 during Moschino's Fall/Winter show she wore an ankle-length dress with a long tail. This elegant yet annoying detail bothered the model for the whole catwalk walk. However, she skilfully kicked her tail several times to get it away from her feet. Hers looked more like a march of some kind than a catwalk walk, but at least she didn't find herself upside down.

If you find yourself reading this article, you are either a fashion or a gossip addict. In any case, fashion week is already in itself one of the most loved and followed events, but now keep in mind that you could also see funny falls on the catwalk. Here you have read about a small part of the most frequent tumbles of recent years. In a moment of boredom, sit back and grab a steaming cup of coffee to enjoy an online gallery of runway falls. There have been no known sightings of fun slips lately, but be prepared for the next time. We are all aware that it is not much fun for the unfortunate woman who falls in front of a dozen paparazzi. However, if taken with the right mood, what happened can become an entertaining part of the show. As the talented Naomi Campbell teaches, it's better to have a laugh and get up casually than sulking and walking away embittered. You can read more of Ciciliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s articles on https://ciciliabrognoli.weebly.com/

Images via Unsplash, Pexels and Wiki Commons

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House of iKons Fashion Week London September 2020 Digital Show An intimate insight into the world of our iKons All images are screenshots from the digital show. Check it out online if you want the full experience!

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JAMIE WEI HUANG Photography by Manbo Key

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Misa Photographs via Pop PR

Harada

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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE

Introvert MARINA COORD KNIT £50

ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc

KOMODO SHIVA Tencel Jumpsuit Dark Indigo £135

Rapanui Women's Knitted Organic Jumper £55

KOMODO HIMALAYAS ROAR Rayon Trousers Himalaya £75

SEASALT CORNWALL Seafaring Coat £150

LONE DESIGN CLUB Le SLAP Gaono Knitted Sweater in Dark Grey £110 BENTIVOGLIO PARIS The Red Square £190

KOI Footwear Astrid Star And Moon Long Boots £47 SEASALT CORNWALL Pretty Circle Scarf £29.95

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BOOK CLUB

Intimations BY ZADIE SMITH

As a product of lockdown, this collection of essays will be one not to miss this year. Despite the restrictions on movement during 2020, Zadie Smith has demonstrated that there has been by no means restrictions on creativity in her newest essays. As one of the most relevant reads I have come across this year, you will be overwhelmed with the symmetry these essays hold to your own life. In six essays, Smith looks at life under lockdown. The first of I am sure many to do so in the coming years, but Smith will always stand out as among the best in her writing. As our everyday life has changed to what has been dubbed the ‘new normal’, reflection seems to be a crucial part of our life. Looking back at events that have now been crossed off our calendars and sorting through old photos with friends at a closeness we can only wish for. But Smith brings a new little space of reflection with happiness. Among the chaos of our surroundings, Smith takes time to reflect and appreciate the small encounters in life. Smith’s writing is precisely what every essayist should aspire to produce. Her words express

thoughts that quickly move but with eloquence rather than haste. Combining fragments of our society today, this collection feels more intimate than her previous collections. Creating relatable reality rather than romantic day dreams, Smith narrates society through her levelheadedness, which has made her writing so popular. Despite her writing never being portrayed as belligerent, it by no means looks past the events of the past few months. By this, I, of course, mean Black Lives Matter protests which have taken place across the US and the world. Smith is not afraid to identify the injustice she witnesses within her day to day events described meticulously throughout the essays. One quote which stood out to me was, “Black and Latino people are dying at twice the rate of white and Asian people”. This blunt truth identifies the fundamental racial injustice within the pandemic, which is the price of health. Throughout history, it has been demonstrated that different classes and races fare worse off in times of chaos, and coronavirus is no different. Turning the virus into

Each issue, London Runway’s very own Book Club discusses their favourite book of the month. With lockdown coming and going simultaneously, Darcey Sergison reviews Zadie Smith’s Intimations reflecting on life in 2020.

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a war has identified the longer persisting battle in society where for “millions of Americans, it’s always been a war” for justice. Smith hits the nail on the head in a short, concise, but provocatively moving manner. As Smith teaches in New York and lives in London, there is a crossing within the essays between her time in both places. Smith journeys between the two when the pandemic hits, demonstrating the change in life that most people have experienced. Her journey from her bustling life in New York to the mundane life of London in lockdown reminds me of similar journeys myself, friends, and family have experienced during these uncertain times. Just as Smith would not have expected her stay in London to be as indefinite as it is, I too expected better things such as a celebration to end my degree. Instead, like many others, this year has been met with disappointments of cancellations. Notwithstanding there is very little mention of the pandemic in the essays, there is an unspoken pressure created throughout. Like a boiling pot, you can feel the stress of the pandemic enclosing the encounters Smith narrates. She remains aware of her use of voices within the essays, reflecting on different encounters and stories from the people around her. From friends and to neighbours, they are all part of Smith’s life, so she is careful to include their voice. One particular encounter that struck me was when she was getting ready to leave New York and bumped into her elderly neighbour. The neighbour said, “we’re a community, and we got each other’s back”. This phrase has been echoed around communities all over the world. Throughout history, community groups have been at the core of society, but it feels like no more than now has it been so crucial to have such support networks around us. Smith demonstrates that even

neighbours who, before having never uttered the word community, are now chanting it. Whether it is because they have recognised the community around themselves or are artificially creating one, it demonstrates how everyone yearns for togetherness. Smith also writes with a sense of self-doubt familiar to most people within daily life. Persistently underselling her creative writing and ability to construct essays and novels, Smith even goes as far as comparing her work to the ease of making “banana bread”. In an essay called “Suffering Like Mel Gibson”, Smith applies this self-doubt to the concept of suffering and its significance to different people. Muddling through the idea of what “real” suffering is, it interested me how Smith, like many, deemed that some suffering is worth more than others. She argued how her staying at home was not as bad as a “nurse with inadequate PPE” during lockdown. Lockdown was different, and still is, for a multitude of people; everyone has experienced their own suffering throughout this year. However, no one person’s suffering is more valued than another. Smith says “when the bad day in your week finally arrives… as if precisely designed to destroy you and only you, at that point it might be worth allowing your admission of the reality of suffering… in preparation for the next painful bout of videoconferencing, so that you don’t roll your eyes or laugh or puke while listening to what some other person seems to think is pain”. Smith demonstrates that it is crucial to recognise this to fully understand your suffering, with no comparison required. I have learnt a lot from this slim read. As one of the first reflections of lockdown I have read, Smith is by far the best to start a long period of recounting the time the world

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stopped. Ranging from the moment “just before the global shit hit the fan” to national lockdown, she discovers every emotion and thought you might have expressed during a time you were isolated, both physically and mentally. Not only does it allow you to discover Smith’s wondering mind during the past few months but also your own. Smith presents a reflection of hard times and holds a mirror to the reader so they too can discover their own thoughts of a time some have chosen to forget quickly. I would label this collection of essays a crucial piece of our times and one you must read. If you decide this is the book for you here are some ways to support independent book shops: Hive.co.uk supports local bookshops on an online platform making it easy to shop for a variety of books Wordery is an alternative online bookshop which offers free worldwide delivery and vows to help bookworms find their new favourite book Blackwells is an academic independent bookshop which has grown from Oxford to other parts of the UK but hasn’t lost the charm of its welcoming and helpful staff World of Books is a second-hand online book retailer that buys good quality unsold books from charity shops and delivers them to your door

PHOENIX RISING PHOENIX RISING is the latest collection of KORN TAYLOR Fashion Design for London and Milan Fashion Week SPRING/SUMMER 2021 Korn Taylor describes the collection as rising like a phoenix from the ashes when his fashion business in Milan emerges stronger, smarter, and more powerful from the catastrophe of the coronavirus pandemic. During the total lockdown in Milan, Korn Taylor and his team were greatly affected as all of his wedding gowns and debutante ball gowns were not sold due to cancelled events. He managed to thrive by creating fashionable face masks from the leftover fabrics and that became his only source of income during those times. When Italy's virus curve fell, Korn Taylor was invited by Casting Bambini, one of Italy's biggest Modeling Agency for Kids, and they managed to create a Grand Fashion Show in Sicily last July 2020. "Phoenix Rising" is what he experienced during the pandemic and he used this as his inspiration to create his collection for Spring/Summer 2021 Fashion Week in both London and Milan.

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Designer: Korn Taylor @korn_taylor Model: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique Photography: Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle HMUA: Ninah Aguila @ninyaguila

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#SBCHALLENGE

This issue, London Runway has teamed up with Samanta Bullock’s #SBChallenge to present a series of magazine covers starring disabled models. Rhiannon D’Averc explains more…

when seated, then zips up for a more streamlined silhouette when standing – making it easy to wear for those in wheelchairs as well as being an everyday fashionable item. By the way, you don’t have to imagine it – Gunda Hafner’s Woven Check Coat already exists, and is available from Samanta Bullock’s online store.

Disabled people only appear in 0.1% of fashion communications. This was the starting point for the #SBChallenge, set up in response to the #Voguechallenge that flew around social media, prompting users to post an image of themselves mocked up as a Vogue cover. More than 1000 posts have already been submitted via the hashtag, showcasing the fact that those who don’t often see themselves in the media are craving

representation. The challenge is not just about posting the images – it’s part of a wider campaign designed to raise awareness of the fact that disabled people are hugely underrepresented compared to their percentage of the population. How meaningful can this be, to see yourself represented at last? For some, it can have a life-changing effect, helping to boost self-confidence and serving as a reminder that you are not alone. Another aim of the project is to push forward the slow process of changing the levels of inclusivity offered in the fashion world. Most fashion brands, whether they are high street or couture, don’t consider the disabled customer when creating their lines – which is a shame both for the consumer and the company, because this is a huge sector of the buying market being overlooked.

Halpern

Inclusive clothes don’t have to be made specifically for wheelchair users, or those with other physical impairments or challenges. In fact, they can look like perfectly ‘normal’ clothes – but their design includes thought towards those who may have different needs. For example, imagine a coat which unzips at the side to allow coverage of the legs

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Inclusivity and diversity are key goals for us here at London Runway, so when we heard about the #SBChallenge, we knew we had to get involved in some way. We liaised with the organisers of the hashtag and brought together some of our favourite cover models who had previously posted on the tag, in order to share them here with you. You can view those over the next few pages! If you represent a brand or charity and would like to get involved with this project, then be sure to visit samantabullock.com/join-thesbchallenge. As for those who want to see themselves on a magazine cover, head to Instagram and use the hashtag #SBchallenge when sharing your post! We’ve posted up a Canva template version of our cover that you can download to use if you’d like to be on our cover. Find it at londonrunway.co.uk/sbchallenge!

"I had never seen, since I was a child, a person like me being represented. I, for example, did not have a photo with my crutches because of my insecurity, but when I saw this happen, I was able to feel free to be what I am ” . — Laura Brandt

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THE X TERRACE LONDON HAT WEEK EXHIBITION Photographs by Mrityunjoy Mitra

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LOVE UNDER CANDLELIGHT Photographer: Delaney Lux @dcorcoranphotography Mixed Media Artist: Divine Harmony Performance Art @divineharmonyperformanceart Fire Performance Artists/Models: Juliette Antony @JulietteMariePerformance; Matthew Edick @cellophanetiger Wardrobe designed and created by Juliette Antony

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THE BEST PODCASTS FOR SECOND-HAND FASHION LOVERS Darcey Sergison recommends the best sustainable podcasts to inspire you.

This Old Thing?

Podcasts are one of the greatest ways to stay informed while on the go. I find that sometimes if you have a train journey or even going to the shops, I like to listen to a good podcast to keep me thinking even while doing the most mundane tasks.

Bay Garnett is the “Queen of Thrift” and has recently launched this podcast to further explore her passion for second-hand. As the curator of Selfridge’s Second-hand September Oxfam boutique Bay is one of the best people in fashion to take style advice from.

You can never know enough about sustainability and environmentalism, so podcasts can be the best way to keep up to date with environmentalism and new ways to combat fast fashion. Second-hand clothes are a great way to boost a sustainable lifestyle rather than consuming new, short life clothes, so here are my picks of the best sustainable podcasts:

Interviewing guests about their greatest finds and memorable childhood outfits, you can be inspired by their love for thrifting and can inspire your own find. My favourite episode has been “Option Overload” with journalist Pandora Sykes, who discusses the consumption choices fast fashion has pressured us with. As a mother and journalist, her relationship

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with fashion has changed through time as she realised the benefits of thrifting clothes for the environment as well as her own style. The Sustainability Agenda Hosted by Fergal Byrne, this podcast discusses sustainability thinkers’ experiences and views regarding sustainability challenges. Guests include Naomi Klein and other experts in their field. I found this podcast really interesting in discovering how experts have experienced the issues faced by the world and how they handled effects of climate change and the advice on what we can do to contribute to changing our world for a greener future.

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All images via Canva stock library

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Climate Queens This podcast will have you on the edge of your seat waiting for the next monthly instalment. Aiming to raise awareness about the effects of humansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; current existence on the planet, Katie and Clodagh cover all sorts of topics, including: fast fashion, climate activism, and reusables. Having met when volunteering, this podcast aims to provide a chatty but informative view from two friends on environmentalism today. Ethical Fashion Podcast Investigating how fashion can be a force for good, hosts Simone Cipriani and Clare Press speak with different fashion insiders about what is wrong with current fashion practices and how this can be changed in the future to promote sustainability within all aspects of this industry. The first episode takes on the issue of fashion shows and what the future holds for these practices. Looking at how we can make it less polluting and more inclusive, a switch to digital only shows is a popular result. Along with many other topics, this podcast provides expert analysis of what it means to be ethically fashionable.

start to finish. In particular, she discusses retro dressing and how vintage pieces hold their own story and a moment in history. Vintage clothes really can give a new story to your wardrobe and this podcast proves how! It Never Gets Old Hosted by Meredith Fineman this podcast breaks down the ins and outs of buying, selling and everything in between. Delving into what it means to buy vintage clothes as well as resell or thrifting, this series is perfect to discover new ways to buy secondhand. I found her episode on secondhand skincare, perfume, and candles very interesting, as this is a sector of fashion and beauty that I had never considered buying second-hand.

Climate Connections Short but informative podcasts by Dr Anthony Leiserowitz from the Yale Centre for Environmental Communications. This podcast will inform you of the factually correct realities of the world and how by abandoning trends, such as fast fashion, we can do our bit to learn more about how we can prevent further damage to the environment. Pre-Loved Podcast Pre-Loved focuses on the love of second-hand clothes in weekly episodes. Through interviewing guests, this show tells you about the best vintage style steals and encourages conscious consumerism. One of my favourite interviews has to be with Allison Dredge who is a freelance costume designer. As an avid thrifter, Allison discusses what it takes to be a freelance costume designer including the costume design process from the

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Graduate Fashion Foundation PHOTOGRAPHY VIA

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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Signifying the full Autumn embrace, Candice brings you sustainable warmth-inducing sweaters for the encroaching chill. When the invasive cloak of Winter drapes overhead, these transitional pieces will be perfect for keeping the cosiness.

Aries March 21 - April 20 Babaà Knitwear’s Jumper Women No15 Arce is an everyday, timeless staple. In their signature red, it will keep their inner, fiery passions alive despite the freezing UK temperatures.

Taurus April 21 - May 21 Versatile and sustainably made, the necessity of Patagonia’s Recycled Cashmere Turtleneck in topsoil brown will only be heightened by the creeping frost. Minimalistic and classy, this piece will never lose its value much like the dependable characteristic of a Taurus.

Gemini May 22- June 21 This bright sign will only be further illuminated during these colder months by this Modern Fisher Cotton Sweater in flame, an orangey-red. By Tradlands, the classic knit pattern and rolled hems and cuffs provide a freeing yet flattering fit.

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Cancer June 22- July 22 Wearing this cinnamon Flower Jacquard Jumper by People Tree, any Cancer will feel encompassed by comforting warmth! Made from 100% wool, the relaxed fit and detailed flower design makes it the perfect statement piece.

Leo July 23- August 21 Always the one to stand out, Eleven Six’s Erica Cardi-Dress in camel will be their sweater alternative since fashion limitations don’t apply to Leos. The mid length and tie-waist design offers a more refined, elegant look.

Virgo August 22- September 23 A staple, this Ebony Square Cashmere Turtleneck by Theo + George pairs well with any of Virgo’s ensembles.

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Libra September 24- October 23 In a delicate lilac, Outerknown’s Jupiter Cashmere Sweater is the “warmest cloud you could ever wear.” The soft Donegal cashmere has subtle varying hues, and the v-neck and blouson sleeves adds femininity.

Scorpio October 24- November 22 Genevieve Sweeney’s Rora Moss Stitch Lambswool is a beautiful deep burgundy with “spiced berry” accents. With a relaxed hip cropped length and chunky knit, a Scorpio won’t even notice the chill.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 A Laura Collared Sweater by Kordal Studio is what a Sagittarius needs to keep out the Winter chills. The forest green colour and lightweight versatility provides the perfect combination for the nature-loving adventure-enthusiast. No weather can stop their craving for exploration!

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Capricorn DDecember 23- January 20 In brown marl, this Fishermans Rib Recycled Cashmere Sweater by Ally Bee will become almost like a second skin to Capricorns during these colder months. The chunky knit and ribbed cuffs provide that effortless comfort and style!

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Even with the chill of Autumn, Aquarius is never one to shy away from fashion experimentations and colour. This Handmade Chunky Knitted Sweater byAla Margioti Handmade on Etsy in cobalt blue will compliment the incoming Winter wonderland!

Pisces

February 20 - March 20 Yan Yan Knits’s Rosie (Rosebud) Grandpa Cardigan in melange grey is a colorblocked, oversized cardigan. Matching the whimsical, creative Pisces aesthetic perfectly, it features “YY” pointelle motif and pineapple knots.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers

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Fashion Show Live Images by Fil Mazzarino

Caroline Benyll

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Fashion by Princess Melodica

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Frobulous

Hip-curve

House of Aristocrats

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House of Goda

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House of Ra

Robert Pierre

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WHERE TO FIND PAID MODELLING WORK Rhiannon D’Averc shares her tips on not just getting work, but getting paid. As a model, finding paid work is very important. This is how you can earn a living from doing something that you love. It’s also a great way to get exposure: the more ad campaigns, magazine editorials, or events you take part in, the more people will have a chance to see your work and think about hiring you. But where can you find that paid work? Here are a few suggestions to get you going. Job boards : They may not come up frequently, but every now and then model castings will be posted to job boards. Look for specialist boards for the most success, for example, FashionJobs.com. Even sites like Gumtree or Indeed may have model requests now and then. Just be sure to do your due diligence and check out the client before you respond to any ads, and before you agree to meet, especially if alone. If in doubt, you can always contact models who have worked with the client previously, and bring a chaperone with you. Your safety is more important than ever in 2020 – ask what social

isn’t easy. But doing unpaid shoots just for a short while can build up a good quality portfolio in order to hook an agency – just make sure to only use professional photographers. Casting sites: You should certainly have profiles on sites like Model Mayhem, StarNow, and so on. Make sure that your profile and portfolio are up to date and browse the available jobs regularly. Many of them are unpaid, but you can use search filters to separate the wheat from the chaff. Competition will be serious, so make sure you are timely with your responses and that your portfolio is suited to the casting. Always put only your best images in your portfolio. This goes for a website, if you set one up, too. Another idea is to set up a separate Instagram profile just with nine or so of your best shots, which you can update from time to time as a kind of living portfolio. Through contacts: Every time you shoot, make friends and contacts. Photographers, make-up

distancing measures will be put into place to protect you on set. Through your agent : Once you have an agency, you are more likely to get paid work. More and more models are looking to freelance, but don’t ignore the possibilities that could come to you once you have an agent.Of course, getting an agent in the first place

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artists, stylists, designers, and even fellow models might be in need of models in the future for paid projects. Make a good impression and you might be at the top of their mind. In personal experience, I’ve had models who did well on set being picked up for lots of other projects with other members of the photoshoot team. That has included working with a well-known makeup brand on a series of shoots – and all from working TFP! Make sure your contacts know you are ready to shoot and looking for work.

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Follow magazines and photographers: Every now and then, photographers and magazines will put out castings for specific looks. Instagram is a good place to find them, and you can also sign up for mailing lists with those who cast through them (such as the mailing list on londonrunway.co.uk for example!) Once you have signed up, make sure to check your emails often! There’s no use in signing up if you don’t see the opportunities before they’re gone.

be put off by Covid-19 – there are still chances to work out there in safe settings, so put yourself forward and see what you can get. Read more of Rhiannon’s articles and tips at twitter.com/rhiannondaverc

Join communities: Facebook is one of the best places for this, but you can also find communities on Instagram and Twitter to join which are dedicated to casting calls. Keep an eye out for open opportunities, be sure to ask if a job is paid when there are no details, and put yourself forward as often as possible. You might get a hundred rejections, but if you have to submit a hundred and one times to get paid work, then you’d better be doing a hundred and one! Getting that paid work might take a while, but opportunities lead to more opportunities. The more you can get your name out there, the better. Don’t

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Images via Canva Library

Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

What's your favourite Halloween costume and why?

"Man in Black, even dressing very smart it pushes your imagination to another world" – - Jose Graca, photographer

"Witch. There are so many variations, it's easy to make it fashion, and half my wardrobe is already appropriate!" -Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

“THE GHOSTS OF HALLOWEENS PAST - I WORE BITS OF ALL MY OLD COSTUMES AT ONCE.” – Christine Bozarth, nurse

“My favourites are actually pieces I can mix and match in different ways for costumes.”

“SINCE I BIKE WITH AN UMBRELLA AND WORKED IN A BIKE SHOP, MARY POPPINS SEEMED LIKE A PRACTICALLY PERFECT CHOICE IN EVERY WAY.” - Sonia Elkes, Emotional Skills Trainer

– Laura Lord, essential worker

“My first Halloween costume was Pikachu back when I was still in primary school... I could go around yelling PIKACHUU without giving a damn what will people think!”

– Laura Novakov, vet

“The year my family did ensemble costumes: we all went as David Bowie of different eras.” - Martin Fox, Surveyor

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY FIL MAZZARINO