SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS . MAKE YOUR WARDROBE GREEN . VENICE TRAVEL GUIDE . NETFLIX RECS
SB CHALLENGE SUPERSTARS . RECORD 15 FULL COLOUR EDITORIALS . DRIPPING GOLD STYLE GUIDE
ISSUE 57 27TH DECEMBER 2020
THE GOLD ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer:Â Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Maria Henry, Cicilia Brognoli, Darcey Sergison Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Yume No Yukari, Rachael Redfern, Jared Rehal, Pandas, Danny Grecu, LanaSvet, Marty Strecker, Carah Connolly, Arisha Plygareva, Wagner Monteiro, Gabrielly, Taina Alves, Pamela Regina, Vinny Pariz, Cassiano Araujo, ModelsRoss, Brittany Anastasia, Tia Young, Ak'kshaylyn Rosemary, Stephen James Tuplin, Matthew William, Nikita Suprunenko, SproArt, Olga Mikhailova-Yarovaya, Anna Sprozhetskaya, Emma Baxter, Tim Bracey, Amanda Abraham, Vivienne Monique, Ram Eagle Photoworks, Ninah Aguila, Gehne by Pinder, Vandana Bharti, Brijendra Bharti, Dinesh K. Ramsay, Saha, Gemana R. Goncalves da Silva, Marilena Ciardullo, Giorgio Grimozzi, Mihaela Myk Stafanita, Mackenzy Vida, Isabella Oxtoby, Ramanpreet Singh Sohal, Tracia Jones, LeCremeNation, Cheyanne GreigAndrews, Mikhail Durer, Maria Konakova, Elena Berezhnova, Angelina Solokova, Katarzyna Searle, Sophie Battersby, Emma Phillipson, Anissa & Naima, Alexandra Hargreaves, Lucia Baiocco, Martina Cavalletti, Elena Fattorini, Naeem Rana, Anita Pillai, Jason Worsley, MJ Production, Sheeta Gill, Harvey Fashion, ABM Pro, Monalisa Sarees Special thanks to Samanta Bullock, Joti Gata-Aura, Kirpal Bhogal, Louise Hunt, Mary Russell, Kathleen Humberstone, Rebecca Legon, Lily Mills, and Susanna Merrick
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Advertising department Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk Š 2020, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
20
53
VISUALS London Runway Covers 2020
7
Stardust (Editorial)
118
The Ancient Curse (Editorial)
8
Tamana (Editorial)
122
The Unseen (Cover Editorial)
20
New Faces
33
Portfolio Piece
39
tHeZodiac Shoot (Editorial)
41
More Gold Mommy (Editorial)
45
All That Glitters (Editorial)
53
Retro Gold by Vivienne Monique
57
Style (Conscious) Guide: Dripping Gold
64
The Golden Red (Editorial)
67
New Gold Dreams (Editorial)
73
Mackenzy (Editorial)
WORDS The Sustainability Awards Nominations
4
The Criteria That Makes a Company Truly Sustainable
17
How to Make Your Wardrobe More Sustainable
30
Foreign Language Films & Series to Watch on Netflix
50
Book Club: It's Not Ok To Feel Blue 65 and Other Lies Christmas in Venice
77
Interview: Susanna Merrick of Aura Wear
89
81
Gold Rush (Editorial)
85
Your Style Horoscope
100
Dance Sense (Editorial)
91
Winter Wonderland (Editorial)
104
New Rules: How Alternative Music 114 Has Become a Fashion Trendsetter During Lockdown
Open Sesame (Editorial)
111
The Big Question
126
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Today’s issue will be our last of 2020, and what a year it’s been. Instead of focusing on the negatives, at this time of year we like to look back on the positives – all of our achievements and the journey we’ve been on together. Don’t miss our round-up of 2020 covers, but right now we’re focusing on the Sustainability Awards. We’ve been collecting your nominations – so many nominations! – and now it’s over to you to place your votes. I won’t go into it too far right now as you can find out all of the details on the following pages, but we think this is a fabulous way to celebrate heading into a new year. Let’s make sure the brands that are getting it right know that we appreciate all that they are doing! Now, to what we think is our biggest achievement of the year yet: this issue’s cover shoot. We worked with Samanta Bullock to bring you the #SBchallenge two issues ago, and if you’ve forgotten
all about it, let me refresh your memory. The challenge is all about bringing those people who are horrifically underrepresented in the media into the spotlight, giving them the chance to see themselves on a cover. Of course, while the challenge is incredibly powerful and uplifting, there’s just one catch: the covers are shared on social media only, and not on real magazines. So, we decided to fix that. It was impossible to choose just one person to highlight, when we’ve come across so many amazing individuals. Rather than doing a single photoshoot, we worked through eight people with disabilities or differences who deserve their slice of the spotlight. Of course, this wasn’t a simple undertaking with lockdowns and tiers, not to mention people at high risk, all involved in the planning. In order to maintain the safety of everyone
involved, we operated a closed set at a private location with a skeleton crew (just a photographer and assistant!) both masked up. Heapings of hand sanitiser and lots of social distancing later, we also shot each person one at a time with no crossover between them so that we never had more than four people on set. We then brought them back together again for the group shot you see on our cover, achieved all through the magic of digital trickery! Despite all the challenges this year has brought, what’s important is how we rise to meet them. While 2021’s path remains uncertain, we can make it through so long as we stick together, act sensibly, and hold tight to the things that matter. Sustainability has come a long way this year, but there’s always further to go – and we can make that happen through the choices we make. Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
The Sustainability Awards Nominations Much thanks to everyone who nominated their top brands or persons for The Sustainability Awards. It’s now time to vote away for your favourite, so may the most sustainable triumph! Winners will be announced in our Virtual Awards Ceremony on January 16th. How to Vote: Head over to our social media or website and vote for your pick in each listed category. Instagram/Twitter/Facebook: @londonrunwaymag Website: londonrunway.co.uk/
Best Sustainable Designer DeMoo Jeans Up-cycled jeans and handmade bands with every purchase contributing directly to a charity. ELB Handmade Handmade lingerie made by a one woman sustainable army in the UK focused on locally sourced fabrics and materials that are recycled or repurposed. Junk LDN Sustainable swimwear brand with planet friendly fabrics. All workers are paid three times the national average to promote ethical and inclusive practices.
Julia Bailey Designs Boston, Massachusetts born designer focussing on sustainable pattern development and fabric tests with empowering collections for both wearer and workers. Jenn Lee Taiwanese designer emphasising sustainable practices, with secondhand fabrics ranging from recycled paper to orange peels. A full collection was made from second-hand denim sent in by her followers. MM Milano Agency "We bring together Global Talents & Sustainable Fabrics."
Sustainable Influencer of the Year Lady Amelia Windsor A fashion model and an extended family member of the British royal family, Lady Amelia Windsor is also an ambassador for @nomoreplasticco and @fashionroundtable. PopVenus Instagram influencer promoting sustainable skincare and makeup. MadeleineOlivia Instagram influencer promoting sustainable living and plant based recipes.
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LONDON RUNWAY Sustainable Makeup Brand Sorcha Natural Beauty Handmade vegan beauty products, ensuring cruelty free beauty products and candles that are ethical and affordable. Mmmuah by Millie Handmade beauty products in London run by a one woman army creating, making and branding the product with ethical working standards and sustainable practices. Neal’s Yard Remedies Organic and ethical beauty and skincare brand who was the first to be awarded full points for ethics by an independent audit by the Ethical Company Organisation. VYANA PLANT BEAUTY Zero waste, all natural and vegan makeup brand focussed on sustainability. “Who says you can't save the earth and look pretty while doing it?!” Bare Minerals Around since 1995, they are a cult classic among many, trailblazing the clean beauty revolution. “... it’s truly MAKEUP SO PURE AND CLEAN YOU CAN SLEEP IN IT.”
Sustainable Accessories Brand Somewhere of London Natural vegan candles inspired by travel. Hand pouring each candle in London, they are all ethical and sustainable..
Modasy UK Their funky jewellery are made with recycled beads, raiding old jewellery boxes and looking at second hand platforms such as eBay and Depop. Your old beads can also be sent in to be upcycled for a discount off the final piece!
That Funky Feeling Ethically made and sustainably packaged jewellery. Repurposed, shredded craft paper is used to protect the product in cardboard boxes, and biodegradable tape makes the packaging completely recyclable.
Dappled Shade Upcycling fabrics to create sustainable, affordable and wearable products, all their products are made from sustainably sourced fabrics.
Sockoshop Maintains a mission to extend the active life of clothing by re-teaching the lost art of darning. Their Recycled Range is made from 50% pre-consumer garment cutting waste cotton, which is spun with 33% polyester from recycled plastic bottles.
Felt Fancy Made to order sustainable jewellery using recycled sterling silver, felt from sustainably sourced wool and reclaimed materials. Additionally, 50% of bracelet profits go to Black Lives Matter UK.
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Sustainable Store Selfridges: Project Earth A new initiative started by this chain of high end department stores focusing on reinventing and discovering more sustainable approaches and methods to fashion. Lone Design Club Pop-up stores with a carefully curated and changing selection of fashion items from independent, sustainable, and ethical brands and designers “Where independent brands and conscious shoppers meet.”
Our Little Tribe GOTS certified, organic and gender neutral clothing for children aged 3-12 years of age. Working with ethical factories, they also aim to utilise stock fabrics and organic dyes to create durable products that can be passed on. Noctu Organic Organic, cotton sleepwear both GOTS certified and ‘Standard 100 Oeko-Tex’ certified to ensure that no harmful chemicals have been used in any process of the cotton cycle for quality fabrics and happy, sensitive skin.
Biggest Sustainable Breakthrough Made 51 by UNHCR All items are crafted by refugees. "Rather than viewing millions of refugees across the globe as a burden, Made51 sees untapped talent and potential that, if unlocked, can directly benefit displaced women, men and children, as well as host communities and local businesses." Choose Love World's first online store where you can buy stuff directly for refugees. Every item or service on the store reflects a similar item in partnered organisations across the globe.
IPSEITY Eco friendly pop-up stores where trees are planted with every purchase. Although this is implemented by other brands as well, we wanted to continue highlighting this innovative eco initiative.
COVID-19 Pause Despite the multitudes of negatives and disparaging effects and events surrounding COVID-19, the initial sustainable and eco benefits are undeniably the small glimmer of positives and hope that have shone through these uncertain times. Pay Up Fashion A movement to hold the fashion industry accountable and force them to take action to make better reforms and laws protecting garment and factory workers, especially during COVID-19. #Payup
All images and quotes via Instagram or the brand/person's website. Written by Darcey Sergison and Candice Wu (@Candice_x9 on Instagram).
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Rhimani Handmade, sustainable beaded jewellery supporting education. At the heart of the company is conversation with countless donation initiatives being made throughout the year as well as ensuring there is no waste through a no waste sale on their website. Salvation Army An international, registered charity shop for good and affordable finds and classic thrifting with proceeds going directly to those in need. "We meet human need without discrimination."
LONDON RUNWAY COVERS 2020
THE
ANCIENT
CURSE
Photographer/Art Director/Retoucher: Yume No Yukari @yumenoyukariphotography Model/Stylist: Rachael Redfern @rachael.redfern Location/Support: Atelier Mari Lon @through_vintage_lens Rachael wears: Dress - Vintage; Headpiece - Uhuru Matahari @uhurumatahari
Rachael wears: Dress - Vintage; Headpiece - Uhuru Matahari @uhurumatahari
Rachael wears: Top and Jewellery - Vintage; Headpiece - The Tribal Temptress @thetribaltemptress
Rachael wears: Dress - Vintage; Headpiece - Uhuru Matahari @uhurumatahari
Rachael wears: Top and Jewellery - Vintage; Headpiece - The Tribal Temptress @thetribaltemptress
Rachael wears: Dress - Vintage; Headpiece - Uhuru Matahari @uhurumatahari
Rachael wears: Top and Jewellery - Vintage; Headpiece - The Tribal Temptress @thetribaltemptress
Rachael wears: Dress - Vintage; Headpiece - Uhuru Matahari @uhurumatahari
Rachael wears: Dress - Vintage; Headpiece - Uhuru Matahari @uhurumatahari
LONDON RUNWAY
THE CRITERIA THAT MAKES A COMPANY TRULY SUSTAINABLE Darcey Sergison looks deeper into what makes a company truly sustainable and how we can distinguish noise from action. Sustainability is the buzzword for the fashion industry this year, and in prior years, as allegations of unethical supply chains have damaged the image of many brands, big and small. While sustainability may appear all over your news feeds, it is crucial to identify how it is being used and for what purpose. According to the Oxford dictionary, sustainability is defined as an “avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance”. This meaning covers a large expanse within the production cycle of products and how this can be made increasingly a closed loop process through resale and recycle processes. To ensure all aspects of sustainable living are maintained we, as the consumer, must look at environmental concerns, worker’s rights, and use of products in order to identify what is and is not sustainable in the fashion industry. Greenwashing is a huge concern when it comes to companies’ marketing of sustainable programmes. With calls being made to swap promotional noise for action, greenwashing does not make this commitment. Instead, some companies decide to spend time and money on producing convincing marketing and campaigns that suggest they are making the change you want to see. This approach misleads us into making false hope purchases thinking we are supporting sustainable ethics, when instead we are supporting the marketing. While it may seem as though it takes time and effort to work out who is sustainable and who is not, there are simple ways to question how truly sustainable is a company? Here are some tips on how you can find truly sustainable brands among the noise:
Go beyond the product While it is easy to stop at what makes the product sustainable it is crucial that you look beyond this. This is evident in many instances where companies that launch sustainable capsules are not a contributor to sustainable practices as a whole. This is a common greenwashing approach that suggests to many customers that they are buying sustainable in the product but the same cannot be said for the brand. We all know the unmentioned brands. These brands produce sustainable capsules when the pressure is applied, but for the rest of the year continue their contribution towards fast fashion. When shopping, buy into the brand, not just the product.
Supply chain transparency As mentioned, sustainability goes beyond environmental practices and it is important to remember the human element in production. Behind garments there can be a story of an underpaid worker. When buying products, it is important to understand the transparency on policies and practices on child labour, forced labour, worker safety, freedom of association, gender equality, and living wage. These are all contributing factors that can make or break a supply chain. While these may seem like an intimidatingly large list of contributing factors, there are many ways in which this transparency can be tested. First you can simply search your favourite brand and see whether they address this on their website. I was shocked at how many of my favourite brands did not address this in their ethics policy, which demonstrates how
supply chain fog can prevent many of us from understanding more about the exact journey of our products. As well as this, sustainability apps are a great way to track these standards in one easy quantifiable click. Check out our previous issue to find out which apps you should be using. During the pandemic this has highlighted further incidences of issues with transparency of supply chains. In particular, the risk of payment for hours of work being cancelled at last minute at the will of the purchasing company. In March, Remake took the step to launch a petition demanding brands to pay workers in response to reports of cancelled orders. The project received over 270,000 signatures and became a worldwide movement to #PayUp including celebrity endorsements from Cameron Russell, Arizona Muse, and Nat Kelly. To ensure a sustained interest in worker’s rights, PayUp Fashion has been launched as a “centre for workers voices and demands in the future of fashion. This long-term vision for change lays out concrete, actionable labour rights goals.” Check out their website to see how you can support this cause while shopping using their brand tracker.
All images via pexels
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Check the label Fashion always has a label telling you how to care for the product and the origins of the product itself. The latter should never be ignored when understanding the sustainability of the product. Just like food labels, fashion garment labels should always be considered when you are thinking about buying a product. Here are some of the most popular standards and certificates you should look out for: Fairtrade: You may be used to seeing this symbol on your favourite chocolate, but now it’s time to consider whether your clothes make the mark too. This standard is designed to “support the sustainable development of small producer organisations and agricultural workers in developing countries.” This approach is holistic through considering social, economic, and environmental criteria. Fairtrade standards also aim to ensure improvements that will benefit the producer and their community. Cradle to Cradle: This certified product standard is a transformative pathway for designing and making products with a positive impact on people and the planet. Factors that are incorporated into the critical performance categories include: material health, material reutilisation, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship, and social fairness.
OEKO-TEX STeP: This is an independent certification system provided for brands, retailers, and manufacturers referencing the textile and leather industry. Certification is suitable for “production facilities at all processing stages who want to communicate their environmental measures externally in a credible and transparent way”. The Global Organic Textile Standard: Developed through collaboration by leading standard setters, this standard has the aim of “defining requirements that are recognised world-wide and that ensure the organic status of textiles from harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer”.
The sustainability search continues With smaller brands arising providing less information than corporate brands, the search continues to understand what makes a brand truly sustainable. Words are no longer good enough. With trackable standards easily monitored through apps or customer research it has made it harder for brands not to take action to stay true to their words. When we first discuss sustainability,
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packaging comes to mind for a lot of people, but while it is easy to change packaging, the supply chain is less malleable to sustainability. Supply chains are either sustainable or not, there is very little middle ground. While claims and advertisement of sustainability are crucial to signal to customers, it is important to look beyond advertisement and access the criteria of what makes that company truly sustainable for yourself.
Merry Christmas & HAPPY NEW YEAR
From all of us at London Runway, we wish you the best possible festive season and a brighter 2021. Thank you for spending 2020 with us!
the
UNSEEN Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc Assistant: Jared Rehal
My name is Samanta Bullock. I’m the founder of the I’mperfection shop. I’m a Brazilian living for 13 years here in the UK. I’m a former para-athlete, number one wheelchair tennis player from Brazil. We got a silver medal at the Parapan in 2007 in doubles, and I played three World Cups representing Brazil. I started modelling when I was 8 years old. I had a gun accident at the age of 14 and I became paraplegic and because of that I couldn’t be a model anymore. But at the age of 26, I started modelling again. I did London Fashion Week, Dubai Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week - and I considered at that point we already had some models but that the brands were not
accessible. They aren’t catering for disabled people and we could see disabled people were not represented in any editorials, magazines, or media and so I came up with this plan that through collaboration with the designers we would put the seed of inclusion. We also work representing and giving them some consultancy, and now our main thing is our social project. We created a film for LFW in September that was called I’mperfection. We gave the name to the shop to bring in the idea that you are perfect the way we are, because no one is perfect. London Runway not only gave space for the SB Challenge [Issue 55] but also the cover of the magazine - this is going to be a big change.
My name is Mary Russell. I started off just playing around being a model back in 2014 because I just thought that there aren’t any models like me around. I just started asking if anyone would want to feature me and most of them came back and said yes, and it sort of took off from there. I did that for a good few years and then I switched into a bit of TV, did a bit of reality, documentary. Now I’m learning to be a fashion designer, so I’ve gone through wearing designer clothes to now wanting to make them myself - because ill-fitting clothing for people that look a bit like me is a bit sad, really. We always have these huge obstacles when it comes to clothing and dressing and stuff. I'm not perfect but I’m having a go.
My name is Kirpal Bhogal. I’m 36 years old and I have a skin condition called vitiligo. I’ve had it since I was 10 years old. It started off on my knees as small dots and gradually over the years it,s spread. The thing with vitiligo is it comes and goes and increases and decreases itself, so there have been years where it was dormant and there’s been times when it’s got really aggressive. From what I’ve seen, it’s normally linked with stress and emotion. I’ve only started embracing my skin and being open with it in the last 3 years - before that I was quite hidden about it and it was hard getting out of the house. I’m married, I have a little son - he’s four.
My name is Louise Hunt. I’m 29 years old and I’m a two-time Paralympic athlete. I’ve competed in wheelchair tennis in the last two Paralympic games and I’m hopefully aiming for the next one in Tokyo if it ever happens. My biggest passions are helping people, especially young people, and trying to make a difference and break down stereotypes. Alongside my tennis I have always and still am doing and will continue to do so. I work with a couple of different charities that help people with all sorts of disabilities, but mainly learning disabilities and mental health disabilities, and helping them in a massive variety of ways. I work a lot with young people in schools to help them work on their personal development and help them reach their potential too.
My name Is Joti and I’m known as @positivelydiverse on my Instagram and Facebook. I’m all about diversity and representation in the media, and this stems from a skin condition that I have called vitiligo which was what I was diagnosed with when I was 21 years old. This condition changed my life, it took me down a really dark road for the best part of twenty years and it took me that amount of time to be able to find and heal myself through a process of getting support online and reaching out for support. I have also been a teacher for 16 years. I work with young people and I’ve raised the profile of body confidence in a school environment and educated young people on how to feel confident and feel self-love.
My name is Kathleen Humberstone. I’m 21 years old. I have done modelling for 3 years and I have a boyfriend, Jack Saunders, and we’ve been together for 9 years. I love my boyfriend and my friends and my family. I have a family in France, I have a family in Africa, and I have one dog Max. I focus on my career, I focus on my health, my family, I want to get married in my future and that’s my life. I love who I am, I’m not changing me. I love acting and I’m going to be a movie star, I like acting, I like working hard, and that’s who I am.
My name is Rebecca Legon. I’m 40 years old and I’m a mother to two amazing children - Olive is 5 and Arther is 3. I’m a disability activist so via social media I promote a healthy attitude with living with a limb difference. I was born with a condition called PFFD – it’s basically where my leg grew from my knee down at my hip, and I had an amputation when I was 8 years old. It’s taken me a really long time to accept myself, so I try to inspire others as when you finally accept yourself you can live a more fulfilled, mentally happy life. I also do a lot of sport and exercise and a lot of challenge-lead sports, so last year I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro with a lot of other amputees and next year I’m joining a group of military amputees to climb Mount Elbrus in Russia. Just because we may have a certain weakness, what I kind of believe in is that your body adapts - so I have one leg; I’m stronger in other ways. I also work for an amazing charity called Limb Power and it’s a charity which rehabilitates amputees back into sport and an active life.
My name is Lily Mills and I play tennis. I go to college. Lily's Mum: She’s a tennis player and she won two gold medals for Great Britain in Abu Dhabi in 2019. Lily was born with galactosemia and E Coli meningitis at four days old, which left her with a brain injury. She is playing for the Great Britain disability tennis squad and she wants to be a model, but everywhere I’ve ever taken her said no and it was Samanta that gave her an opportunity. She’s had one paid job, but it doesn’t matter because it makes her feel good and she likes doing the modelling. She loves it.
LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
HOW TO MAKE YOUR WARDROBE MORE SUSTAINABLE This month, Cicilia Brognoli proposes some simple steps to have a trendy and eco-friendly wardrobe for fashion lovers curious about sustainability. SUSTAINABILITY Sustainability is often regarded as a trend, a craze many desperately chase to feel cool and in step with the times. Although it might seem that buying sustainably is a passing trend, like total black or flared jeans, this is a lifestyle, a value increasingly embraced by many. The masses often associate sustainable fashion only with the materials used to produce clothes and accessories. However, in a broad sense, sustainability aims at satisfying human necessities without compromising or reducing the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. This will only be possible if we avoid the depletion of current natural resources, thus maintaining an ecological balance. The fashion industry is often blamed for manufacturers' poor working conditions and unfair wages. Indeed, sustainability is given by the synergy of environmental, social, and economic conditions that safeguard the planet, and takes into consideration the psychophysical well-being of workers and animals involved in the production process.
WHY SHOULD WE HAVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE? Obviously, in addition to helping the planet, making your closet a bit more sustainable makes you mindful of the products you already own. Sustainable fashion is often thought of as overpriced and ugly clothes, but that's not the case! Well, not always. For those who want to start giving a new life to their wardrobe, I propose a short series of steps that will surely be useful in approaching shopping more conscientiously.
EXPLORE YOUR WARDROBE Start by looking inside your closet. Are you a serial accumulator or are you a fashion lover with garments in all shades of colour? In both cases, empty drawers, shoe racks, and trunks and act as if you were setting up a clothing market. You will immediately realise how many items you have, and likely, you will be shocked. Be honest with yourself, and put aside anything you haven't worn for years, or that you've never even taken off the tag. The brandnew reindeer sweater your granny gifted you back in Christmas 1990, well, maybe it should get out of your wardrobe. I'm not saying that gifts made by loved ones need to be thrown away: just put what you don't wear aside and make way for the following steps. So, no sentimentalism, roll your sleeves up and start with a big decluttering.
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LONDON RUNWAY
DISPOSE OF THE UNWANTED ITEMS
PLANNING YOUR SHOPPING SESSION
After the exploring phase of your closet, I'm sure you have a consistent mound of fashion items next to you. This is perhaps the most painful phase of decluttering. Start by dividing the products that could have a new life from the ones that you don't like anymore. Everything can be recycled and reinvented - like the clothes you are particularly attached to but which are now worn-out, or new but not suitable for your style. With a collection of tshirts you love,you can sew a fantastic blanket. Using awkward but still soft sweaters, you can create home slippers or pillow covers. Creativity and passion for sustainability are the winning combo, so don't forget to open Pinterest looking for some cool DIY ideas.
Once you have dismantled what languished for years on the bottom of your drawers, you can start the planning phase. Take a look at the basic pieces you have: these are t-shirts, jeans, single-colour sweaters in neutral tones, and accessories easy to match with anything. These pieces, even if not made out of the best materials, will be the starting point of the shopping plan. There is no need to throw them away simply because they are not sustainable. Go on wearing them and once wornout they will be replaced.
Remember, sustainability hates waste, so don't throw away what's left. Donate the clothes you don't want anymore. You can opt for charity and vintage shops that will resell your items, as well as the voluntary associations donating clothes and accessories to the neediest.
Now it's time to do some online research. Look for what would like to wear, especially basic items you don’t have. Remember you don’t need to spend a fortune to make your wardrobe more eco-friendly. You can find out about well-known brands having a conscious or sustainable line. H&M Conscious and Zara Join Life are just two of the many fast fashion labels starting to pay more attention to the
materials and production processes used. Take a look at their online portals. I'm sure many people will change their mind about these brands, often vilified because of their environmental waste. If your style has changed over time and you want to renew your wardrobe in terms of sustainability and aesthetics, check for some outfit ideas. Take a look at the websites at the bottom of the article, you will find excellent brands to choose from, all pleasantly sustainable. HIT THE HIGH STREET The purchasing phase is the most fun in my opinion. It is up to you to choose whether to buy online or to go to the high street in your city. If you want to feel the materials of your new clothes, then enjoy a refreshening shopping session. Many people choose to visit shops especially when buying from a brand for the first time. Touching the clothes and checking the store interiors are just two of the main aspects online shopping cannot replace. Check the fabrics used and understand their quality, this is a step every sustainability lover will always emphasise. By reading the tags, you can understand if the items are really worththe price on the tag. Remember that sustainability praises quality over quantity. So, don't get carried away by the shopping frenzy, falling back into old habits. Invest wisely in trans-seasonal garments you can use all year round with outfits of all kinds. T-shirts, jeans, and underwear are items you can wear in any season. Many women opt for linen dresses and skirts even in winter, combining them with heavy cotton tights. If you are sceptical, check for some linen outfits inspiration on Instagram and Pinterest, maybe you will be pleasantly surprised. As for the sweaters, look for them in different weights, as no one tells you to cover up with a chunky woollen sweater just to be protected from the seaside breeze.
Many sustainable brands offer amazing jumpers lasting for years, it's about making a small investment trying to safeguard the planet and the manufacturing workers’ well-being. The last step for your purchasing session is to explore vintage and charity shops. Not many people like to wear second-hand clothes, but surely you can find stunning statement pieces such as bags, jewellery, hats, and belts ready to boost your sustainable outfits. Recycling accompanies you from the DIY activities with your old garments to the last step of your shopping phase. There is no sustainable wardrobe that does not have some beautiful vintage pieces. Avoid waste, give a second life to previously owned items. TAKE CARE OF YOUR CLOTHES Finally, although it may seem obvious, taking care of your items is vital. How many people throw piles of garments in the washing machine without even looking at the laundry instructions? Be honest with yourself, after all, it happens to everyone. Haste, however, is the enemy of clothes. If garments are not properly washed, they come out of the washing machine ready to be trashed. Those who are now seasoned experts in sustainability often use fabric sprays to avoid excessive consumption of water and electricity. However, this extreme choice is not for everyone. At the same time, no one wants woollen sweaters covered with lint, especially if you have spent quite a bit on the renovation of your wardrobe. I strongly recommend you to pay a little more attention to laundry sessions. Probably after the decluttering of the wardrobe, you will already be exhausted, but if you have the patience to complete all the steps towards sustainability, you will be knackered but happy. The planet thanks you, and in a long-term perspective, your wallet too. Shopping and sustainability can get along very well if you choose your clothes consciously. Don't forget to venture to the high street with some canvas tote bags ready to be filled, that is a must for any true sustainabilityloving shopper.
Images via Pexels
Take a look at these mainly UK sustainable brands. reve-en-vert.com wearethought.com rapanuiclothing.com statusgaea.com gatherandsee.com stellamccartney.com/gb larkandberry.com been.london thelevelcollective.com spoke-london.com boden.co.uk/en-gb votch.co.uk You can read more of Cicilia’s articles on ciciliabrognoli.weebly.com/.
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: DANNY Name: Danny Grecu Age: 9 Location: Republic of Moldova - Chisinau Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? He started when he was 7 years old until now.
What would surprise people to know about you? He is attractive, people are always complimenting him. Danny is always very dedicated in what he has to do. Everyone is saying that it is very easy to work and collaborate with him.
Where are you from originally? He is originally from the Republic of Moldova.
What are your modelling ambitions? He is working very hard to reach the highest results. He would love to work one day with the biggest brands and modelling companies.
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? He is very happy and loves socialising. He loves playing music and dancing. He always takes part in everything that is going on, all the games and activities.
Fashion Designer: Pandas @Pandas_elat_boutique Model: Danny Grecu @Danny.grecu Photographer: LanaSvet @lana_svet_photo
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: CARAH Name: Carah Connolly Age: 16 Location: Mackay, QLD, Australia Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 5 years
What would surprise people to know about you? I am a black belt in karate. What are your modelling ambitions? To grace the catwalks of Milan.
Where are you from originally? Mackay
Creative Director/Photographer/Retoucher: Marty Strecker @martystreckerphotography Model: Carah Connolly at Elite Avenue @carahconnolly
Carah wears -Tree of Life
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: ARISHA Name: Arisha Plygareva Age: 5 Location: Ukraine Agency: In Ukraine: Qkids; in Italy: ModaModa; in Portugal: KateModels
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Likes to draw, study foreign languages, make jewellery out of beads and sing
How long have you been modelling for? The first job in modelling was when Arisha was 3 years old
What would surprise people to know about you? Despite her young age, Arisha had 5 exhibitions of paintings. Arisha loves painting very much
Where are you from originally?Born in Ukraine in the city of Odessa
What are your modelling ambitions? Travel around the world
Fashion Designer: Pandas @Pandas_elat_boutique Model: Arisha Plygareva @Arisha_plygareva Photographer: LanaSvet @Lana_svet_photo
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WAGNER MONTEIRO The greatest inspiration for my work comes from my adolescence. I was a young man who consumed a lot of mainstream art, while traveling through underground environments in my city that is called Guarulhos and is close to the capital SĂŁo Paulo. I went through other art segments until I got to fashion and portrait photography. Music, visual arts and theater have been part of my history over these 36 years of existence.
portfolio piece
And in my photography I try to make it as "punk" as possible. I work with natural light, avoid editing images and also use smartphones to photograph. What I try to convey with this work and show people that it is possible to take good photos without having to spend on equipment both for shooting and for editing the images. And my personal goal is to be able to keep up with photography, unfortunately I live in a country that doesn't encourage artists in general. Nowadays I have moved back in with my mother and I am currently unemployed. Photographer: Wagner Monteiro @blueisnotcolor Models: Gabrielly @_gabriellydejesus; TainĂĄ Alves @queenweed4_20; Pamela Regina @pami_regina; Vinny Pariz @vinnypariz; Cassiano AraĂşjo
tHeZodiac shoot Creative Director: ModelsRoss @ModelsRoss Models: Brittany Anastasia @known.as.brit; Ak'kshaylyn Rosemary @ModelsRoss; Tia Young; tia_the_model Photographer: Stephen James Tuplin @echowhitefox Wardrobe: Matthew William
Model: Nikita Suprunenko @nikita__suprunenko Photographer/Retoucher: Olga Mikhailova-Yarovaya @photojarovey Wardrobe Stylist/Creative Director/Model: Anna Sprozhetskaya @sprozhetskaya Wardrobe Credits: SproArt
LONDON RUNWAY
FOREIGN LANGUAGE FILMS AND SERIES ON NETFLIX TO WATCH Feel like you are watching the same series on repeat? Darcey Sergison provides a guide to the foreign language films and series you should add to your list to watch this Christmas.
With the past few months spent at home, it is inevitable that you will have exhausted Netflix. Like many of you, I turned to Netflix to fill my time. Watching a vast selection of series and films, I found that they were all merging into one. I found that the series I watched were easy options, so I decided to venture further to all corners of Netflix. Foreign language films and series have always interested me, but I have never gone out of my way to find them. I decided now was the perfect time to watch them, and boy am I glad that I did! Netflix has an amazing collection of foreign language films and series which provide gripping storylines and amazing characters. I found it highly rewarding immersing myself in different cultures through foreign language and learning more about different cultures within each film or series I watched. I noticed that despite each country having unique customs, the world has a lot in common. I found issues of the teenagers in Love 101 no different to schools around the UK, with the problems of love being universal. Similarly, the drama of family tensions in The Wasp Network can be seen in any household, minus the Cold War tensions! Ultimately, I highly encourage you to take a jump out of your comfort zone and try one of the six films or series I have recommended.
UNORTHODOX This is the story of a girl leaving the community she was brought up in in New York and travelling to a new world in Berlin. From a strict Jewish community, she yearns for the life of a modern woman. This series is inspiring in the journey it takes you on, travelling the world from your own home. However, it takes unexpected turns, proving no one can entirely recreate themselves. Experiencing the freedom of life for the first time, it is not long till the past restrictions of life come to haunt her. This emotional TV series is ideal for anyone looking for an exploration of the tale of two communities and whether the past and present can coexist.
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QUICKSAND Based on the best-selling book, this Scandi psychological drama will have you on the edge of your seat. A teenage girl is entangled in a murder trial as tragedy hits the local suburban school. This story of murder is also dishevelled with first love and how quickly this relationship can dissolve into something darker as the drama unfolds. My favourite part about this series is the level of mystery throughout. It starts with a shocking opening which takes you to the heart of the crime committed, gripping you in the distorted mess. I enjoyed how I felt as though I was part of the mystery, just as covered in confusion as everyone else.
DIVINES Set in the outskirts of Paris, two unlikely friends set out to be tough and become rich. But honest money was never part of the plan. Earning their way as runners for a drug dealer, it all changes when one girl, played by Oulaya Amamra, meets a dancer. Opening a whole new world for her, he shows how you don’t always have to be tough in a world of more possibility than is shown by a drug dealer. Even though it’s set in Paris, I loved the universal values this series represented. Anyone from around the world can relate to the love and friendship within this series, which prevails even at the darkest of times.
WASP NETWORK This star-studded film is set in the 1990s in Cuba at the height of tensions within the communist state. Labelled traitors but to some heroes, the film follows a group of elite spies whose aim it is to infiltrate exile groups to prevent attacks on Cuba. Based on a true story, this film builds the suspense and tension between service to your nation as well as your family. I love the twists and turns that this film has and how even though at first it may seem like a somewhat historical account of an event, it delves deeper to reveal personal turmoil creating this high drama film. If you are looking for an action-packed movie to enthral yourself in Cold War drama of traitors and heroes, this is the one for you.
LONDON RUNWAY
LOVE 101 A classic school romance takes a twist in this Turkish drama. When four misfits and one ideal student unite forces to make their favourite teacher fall in love with a basketball coach, all hell breaks loose as the witty Headmaster is determined to expel them. Perfect for any teenager, or any age in fact, this series will have you rooting for the romantic ending every teenager at school dreams of. This series had me immersed in the age-old tale of the drama of high school love, both unrequited or united. With love uniting everyone, this Turkish drama has something we can all relate to. Now with season two confirmed to make a return, Love 101 is the perfect series to watch now.
THE DRUG KING With the lead actor of Parasite, Song Kang-ho, you cannot miss this film. This is the wild story of a smuggler rising through the ranks to become the king of drug dealers in the 1970s. Song Kang-ho’s character is well and truly the star of the film, as despite smugglers normally being depicted as the villain of the film, his character is one which you will want to get behind. With the comedic value he adds you will be rooting for his success, even in the black trade market. This is one of my favourite Korean films and I am sure it will be one of yours too after watching it.
Images via Instagram
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t t i e l r G s t a h T l l A Model: Emma Baxter Photographer: Tim Bracey @timbraceyphotography Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Amanda Abram @amarie_makeup_artistry
RETRO GOLD By Vivienne Monique
Vivienne Monique goes RETRO GOLD this Festive Season with these ensembles from Fashion House - Be Unique Be You, Alora Safari, Christian Lacroix, Guess, Gucci, and Little Bratz Boutique.
Model: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique Fashion Designers: Be Unique Be You / Anne Wilkinson @be_uniquebeyou; Alora Safari @alorasafari; Little Bratz Boutique; Christian Lacroix; Gucci HMUA and Wardrobe Stylist: Ninah Aguila ninyaguila Photography: Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle
Vivienne wears: Clothing - Little Bratz; Accessories - Gucci
British fashion designer Anne Wilkinson, owner of Be Unique Be You, is known for her boho-chic designs and sustainable clothing as part of her ethos. Her designs are both practical and beautiful longlasting clothes, not fast fashion. She also made the most spectacular and unique pieces of knitwear which she has shown in London Fashion Week in the House of Ikons. Her garments are very precisely made in her home workshop in Portsmouth, UK. They're bespoke and custom-made, and she can also make designs to order to your requirements.
Vivienne wears: Clothing - Christian Lacroix; Accessories - Gucci
Alora Safari is a luxury fashion brand specializing in children's custom and couture formal wear for special occasions and events. Based in Kentucky, USA, owner Amanda Folz named her brand which means “My Dream Journey.� She also personally designs and makes these gorgeous gowns, and her prayer is that God will help her make this world a better place, one dress at a time.
Vivienne wears: Gilet - Be Unique Be You; Other Clothing - Little Bratz; Accessories - Gucci
Vivienne wears: Clothing - Guess
Vivienne wears: Clothing Alora Safari
Vivienne wears: Gilet - Be Unique Be You; Other Clothing - Little Bratz; Accessories - Gucci
Vivienne wears: Clothing - Alora Safari
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE
MONSOON (S.E.W SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION) Peacock embellished blouse £60.00
ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli
HAWES AND CURTIS Men's black roll neck merino wool slim fit jumper £55.00
BEEN LONDON Ridley Crossbody £179.00
BODEN British belt £40.00 FELDSPAR AT RÊVE EN VERT Gold Bud Vase £130.00
MONSOON (S.E.W SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION) Ebony glitter print stretch velvet top £55.00
THE LEVEL COLLECTIVE Burn Bright T-shirt £30.00
LARK & BERRY Dune organic micro hoop 60mm in solid 14k yellow gold £190.00 each
STELLA MCCARTNEY Falabella metallic crossbody bag £425.00
MOTHER OF PEARL Cropped Chloe jeans £250.00
BEEN LONDON Queensbridge Keyring £45.00
HOT WATER BOTTLE SHOP 2-litre ecosustainable luxury gold hot water bottle (rubberless) £19.99
VOTCH Gold and Pinatex with Black Classic watch £135.00
PARTY ALL NIGHT PAGE 64
SPOKE LONDON Sharps £99.00
LONDON RUNWAY
BOOK CLUB
It’s Not Ok To Feel Blue and other lies
Each issue, London Runway’s very own Book Club discusses their favourite book of the month. With 2020 coming to an end, Darcey Sergison reviews the inspirational collection of stories curated by Scarlett Curtis in It’s Not Ok To Feel Blue and other lies.
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LONDON RUNWAY
While 2020 has not been the ideal start to our Roaring 20s, it has certainly taught us a lot. A process of realignment has occurred around the world as many have escaped their bustling lives to a quetter pace and realised the importance of the slower life. Unlike The Great Gatsby’s big parties reflecting the 1920s, a century later the parties could not look more different - because they are not even here.
solution. Reminding everyone that they are heard and valued should be something we take forward to 2021 as the struggles presented and heightened this year have always been there. Curtis also curated a wide range of authors within this collection, allowing all of them to open up about their own mental health, providing a sense of guidance and camaraderie with their reader.
In place of all the parties and going out, we have been isolated at home taking time to reflect on the ‘lost year’ of 2020. One thing for sure is that health has been the word on everyone’s lips. While in the middle of a pandemic, psychical health has been the prime focus, but mental health has also risen in the ranks of everyone’s priorities.
A chapter that exercises the idea of guidance is Fearne Cotton’s “Silver Lining”. As the title suggests, Cotton discusses the “unexpected good bit” that always comes after the bad bit. For Cotton, it was sharing her story that made the “harsh shackles” lighten. She highlights the happiness that cannot be conceived in the depths of depression and that “it doesn’t mean there is no light at all; we just can’t see it.” This reminder comes when applied to most situations. Despite 2020 being stuck indoors, just imagine how great it will be when we can hug again - and with the rollout of vaccines, this silver lining is not too far out of reach now, either.
Isolated and distanced, many people have felt the effects of 2020 long before it even happened. Although 2020 has been a year of staying away from one another we have also come together as a community. Reaching out to friends through phone calls and small gifts or letters sent in the post, everyone’s wellbeing has come to be noticed now more than ever. Scarlett Curtis addressed the question of “How I can help?”, expressing perfectly the divide between what people say and what they wish they had said to a friend or stranger struggling with their mental health. Discussing “one of the hardest things in the world,” Curtis’s tips to making someone feel less alone can be applied to everyone this year. Curtis explains that as “human beings, when faced with a crisis, our first instincts are usually to try to help, fix or provide context” but sometimes there is no one easy
Adam Kay, writer and former doctor, grapples with one of the most quintessentially British phenomena, the “stiff upper lip”, head on. A trait that is common in our nation, as much as it eludes to a sense of strength, can also be our downfall. A quote that looks as though it was meant to perfectly sum up this year is that “even though the mask rarely slips, the job is often brutal.” With care workers persistently being celebrated as superheroes, we must remember they are only human and the toll the pandemic will have on them may not be seen
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but will inevitably arise. However, the idea of a mask can apply to everyone, both metaphorically and literally. We all project the image we want others to see, sometimes successfully and sometimes not so much, but while we always may want the image of perfection to override, it is crucial to express the downs and worries we have. Kay reminds us all that: “It’s not a sign of weakness to feel overwhelmed or underappreciated.” Whether you are looking to wrap up and knuckle down for a long read or just want to devote a short amount of time, Curtis has it all for you in It’s Not Ok To Feel Blue and other lies. The vast collection of essays will be sure to have something for you with guidance and hope interwoven throughout. You do not have to be a movie star or doctor to understand the emotions written in these personal essays, the only requirement is to be you. Looking forward to 2021, let’s not forget the time that we put our mental health first.
The Golden Red
Accessory Designer: Gehne By Pinder @gehne_by_pinder Model: Vandana Bharti @bharti.vandy26 Photographer: Brijendra Bharti @shots_from_heart Fashion Designer: Dinesh K Ramsay @dineshkramsay Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Sahar @finessebysahar
New Gold Dreams Assistant Photographer: Gemma R. Gonรงalves da Silva @gemmar.goncalves Makeup Artist: Marilena Ciardullo @makeupartistmarilenaciardullo Model: Mihaela Myk Stafanita @mihaelastafanita Photographer: Giorgio Grimozzi @giorgiogrimozzi
LONDON RUNWAY
CHRISTMAS IN VENICE
Fil Mazzarino takes us on a tour of the floating city in the north of Italy in this photographic essay. Venice (or, as the local Italians call it, Venezia) is a city in northeastern Italy and the capital of the Veneto region. Rather than a single city on land, it is on a group of 118 small islands that are separated by canals and linked by over 400 bridges in the shallow Venetian Lagoon.
The Patriarchal Cathedral Basilica of Saint Mark, commonly known as St Mark's Basilica or the Basilica di San Marco, is the cathedral church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice, northern Italy. It is the most famous of the city's churches and one of the bestknown examples of Italo-Byzantine architecture. It lies at the eastern end of the Piazza San Marco, adjacent and connected to the Doge's Palace. Originally, it was the chapel of the Doge, and has only been the city's cathedral since 1807.
The Piazza San Marco, or St Mark's Square, is the principal public square of Venice, Italy, where it is generally known just as la Piazza ("the Square"). All other urban spaces in the city (except the Piazzetta and the Piazzale Roma) are called campi ("fields"). The Piazzetta (meaning little Piazza/Square) is an extension of the Piazza towards the San Marco basin in its south east corner. The two spaces together form the social, religious, and political centre of Venice.
The classic Venetian boat is the gondola, (plural gondole) although it is now mostly used for tourists, weddings, funerals, or other ceremonies, or to cross the Grand Canal in lieu of a nearby bridge.
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Mackenzy
Makeup Artist: Isabella 'Izzy' Oxtoby @makeupbyizzy____ Model: Mackenzy Vida @mvidaaa Photographer: Ramanpreet Singh Sohal @rammysohal Wardrobe: Thrifted
GOLD RUSH
Model: Tracia Jones @Traciaj_
Wardrobe/Creative Director/ Photographer: Le Creme Nation @lecremenation
LONDON RUNWAY
INTERVIEW: SUSANNA MERRICK OF AURA WEAR Cheyanne Greig-Andrews interviews Susanna Merrick, intuitive aura reader and founder of a truly unique personal styling business, Aura Wear. Susanna Merrick is a New York Citybased personal stylist with an approach unlike any other. Her company, Aura Wear, combines her energetic gift of reading auras with her love of fashion to help her clients look and feel their best through all of life’s seasons. Auras are the electrical frequency emitted by all living things, also known as our electromagnetic field. Susanna believes that personalized colour and style choices can profoundly support or shift your energy for the better. I had the opportunity to talk to Susanna about Aura Wear to learn more about the healing power of colours and what to expect from an in-person or online consultation.
However, it wasn’t until 2016/17 that I really started to step into these gifts. I was working at a church and through that, I really started to step into my spiritual path. I also experienced a deep loss which really created my spiritual journey. I lost my mother at that time and kind of lost everything. From that I found my path, it was seriously just a download. I took all of the things I was doing at that time and put them together. I felt really called to start my styling business. I noticed that there was a big space in the market as well. I went looking for someone who could spiritually help me and step into my alignment by using aesthetic and I couldn’t find anything, that’s how Aura Wear started. It started from a need, something I needed myself.
Can you give us an overview of how dressing for your aura works?
With everything going on in 2020 have you noticed any themes in the auras you’ve read lately? In general, is it possible to notice collective trends in auras or are they strictly individual reflections?
Aura Wear is fundamentally based on incorporating energy techniques for all aspects of life. When we are tuned-in to and understand the colours our energy is communicating, we can set intentions, and take steps, to better satisfy our needs. Colour is a powerful tool we can use to make life-changing adjustments. Aura Wear is about supporting our current state through colour and self-expression - and incorporating this into our wardrobe. Our style is always evolving; our auras tell us a lot about our authentic and personal style. Our style deserves a thoughtful approach and a closer look.
Yes, I definitely noticed themes of particular colours at particular times collectively. Definitely this year it’s been about blue and green energy. Green with people reevaluating and blue, that serene, calm, peace from people being at home and things slowing down. Also, that energy of wanting to be of service. A lot of us aren’t doing anything and as humans, we feel it's important that we step into positions of service, gratitude, and giving - so blue has really been there.
When did you first become aware of your energetic gifts and how did that manifest into your personal styling business? Essentially, I’ve always experienced auras and energies around people.
Blue also reflects someone who might be lower vibrationally and/or going through something. Same with green; green can be a colour of healing. If someone’s going through a big season of growth or expansion and/or going through some big emotional wounds to level up to the next place they need to be spiritually, green is usually there. It has been very present
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this year. Also, a lot of people are working with pink energy. Pink is the colour of tenderness and compassion. Women have been dying their hair pink recently and a lot of that is us stepping into our feminine power and just generally being more tender and gentle.
Winter is in our midst - are there any colours that people could benefit from wearing during the colder months? Yes, we are talking about black and white right now. These two colours are here to help us go a little bit deeper. When we think about the solstice and shorter days it’s an energy and time to start healing wounds. With the pandemic and everything at the moment people aren’t able to go home, we’re not getting that same time, so we are really having to start with a clean slate. Start new traditions, do new things, black and white can really help support you. How would you suggest people to start introducing colour in their wardrobe if they are typically colour-phobic? You don’t have to go out and buy a new wardrobe. You don’t have to wear colour from head to toe. I think it is as simple as intentionally working with colour. I have a lot of beautiful rituals and systems I believe are important when working with colour to use it as a tool for manifestation. Ultimately, colour can be a tool to rewire your neurons and your mindset but it’s also important to assign your emotions and feelings to it and connect to that colour energetically. Adding colour could be as simple as a little nail polish, a bracelet, or a hat – you don’t have to go crazy with colour. You can start subtly, like things with gentle undertones, this can really help support you.
How do sustainability and slow fashion principles play in your business? Energy styling is the practice of gathering garments that align with our aura, harnessing our innermost energies, and projecting them outward to give them added strength, power, and punch. Fashion has become like fast food these days, it’s all junk and is just a quick fix. I’m aiming to help find health and balance in their personal style and wardrobe. It’s about having a conscious carbon footprint and ethical spending habits on clothes that haven’t been made by those in unfair work conditions. A healthy closet means shopping ethically and responsibly. This is what I teach my clients by introducing them to designers and brands I love, that are not only asking ethical choices but who are actively working to make changes too. It’s not going to happen overnight, but we can work to start changing habits to bring forth a better way of interacting with our clothes while building a deep appreciation for them.
What does a consultation with you look like, and does it differ for in-person or online clients? My most popular service! In your fullspectrum aura reading and colour consultation, this is my introduction to all things Aura Wear. Once you’ve had your first reading you will be able to access all of our services, from intuitive coaching to personal styling sessions, but this is our time to connect and learn about your energy. In our session together we will dive into the many layers of your aura and explore through an oracle card spread and
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conversation. As your colours are revealed to me through conversation, we will examine what they mean for you along with how you can work with them to call-in or remediate certain energy patterns in your life. To end our session together, I will provide holistic lifestyle advice and a selection of personalized auraenhancing colours that will support your present aura and help you thrive. The 90-minute session is perfect for those looking for deeper insight into their colour energy layers, as we have more time together to investigate your questions and intentions prompted by an expanded oracle card set. All readings are offered virtual and do not differ from my past in-person sessions.
Last, but not least, how would you describe your personal style, and what colours are you presently utilizing to support your own aura? My personal style is forever changing and evolving, but I would say it’s an ever-changing orchestra on reinvented vintage pieces with whacky contemporary concoctions. I want my closet to always feel like a dress-up treasure chest. I love Ganni, Rachel Comey, Mr. Larkin and La Double J but will forever hold a place in my heart for vintage Gucci finds. Learn more about Aura Wear and Susanna’s services at aurawearnyc.com. Enjoyed this article? You can find more of Cheyanne’s work at thelondonhippie.com or follow on her on Instagram @thelondonhippie. Images from Aura Wear and Pexels
DANCE SENSE A dance is one of the few areas where we can be ourselves. A dance is beyond conditions and taboos. A dance is where two souls meet, and have no rules, no titles, no limits. Using vintage stylization, the author wanted to show a connection with the past. Some centuries ago, a dance was the only socially accepted interaction a man and a woman could have before marriage. Even though dance partners couldn’t express their feelings in public, they could feel them through touches and looks while dancing.
Models: Mikhail Durer @mihail.durer and Elena Berezhnova @letta.violetta Photographer: Maria Konakova @radio_ladio Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Angelina Sokolova @angelinasokolovamakeup Wardrobe: All Vintage
This online version of this page contains a video file. Head to LondonRunway.co.uk to watch it as part of our digital issue.
LONDON RUNWAY
YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Wishing everybody had a joyous holiday despite the circumstances. In this issue’s style horoscope, Candice brings you ethical gold earrings that will accentuate the sign’s inner light, highlighting the strength displayed throughout this tumultuous year that we’ve had! Treat yourself or ask for that extra holiday surprise.
Aries March 21 - April 20
“Inspired by the corageous hearts & stories of our artisans in Uganda.” For the bravest of them all, Aries will shine in these Radiance Drops earrings by Voice International, especially with the ethos behind them. Featuring brass triangles and gold-plated ear hooks.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
These simple Recycled 9ct Gold Bar Studs by Studio Adorn on Wearth London will be that needed understated glow of sophistication a Taurus always welcomes. Featuring pure 9ct recycled gold.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Wilhelmina Garcia’s Rainbow Zircons Ear Cuff exudes a playfulness and vibrancy that matches the Gemini’s personality perfectly. Taking everything with a can-do attitude, their positivity will be further enhanced with these on. Featuring 925 sterling silver in 18ct gold plated and multicolor glossy zircons.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22
The ever so elegant Cancers will love these delicate Golden Hour Freshwater Pearl Asymmetrical Earrings by I’mmany London. Featuring waterfall design, freshwater pearls and 18ct gold vermeil.
Leo July 23- August 21
These fierce and luxury-loving signs will absolutely stun in these Sondu Brass and Horn Half Moon Earrings by Yala Jewellery. Featuring pure recycled brass, cow horn half moon pieces, and elongated gold fill ear wires.
Virgo August 22- September 23 By Astley Clarke, these Stilla Green Onyx Drop Hoop Earrings will add elegance to any refined look a Virgo dons. “Here to add a touch of vibrancy to your ear party…” Featuring 18ct gold plated sterling silver, rose-cut green only gemstones and drop hoop design.
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Libra September 24- October 23 By I’mmanY London, the quirky Libra will love these Rain or Shine Umbrella 18k Gold Vermeil Threader Earrings. The whimsical umbrella design will make a statement with any outfit. Featuring 18ct gold vermeil, ecofriendly gold glitter and gold-plated brass.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 Wolf and Gypsy’s Hanging Crown Studs Tigers Eye embodies the innately confident and protective natures of Scorpios. Both chic and simple, it’ll soon become a favourite accessory! Featuring Tigers eye gemstone and sterling silver plated with gold vermeil.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
In one of their signature gemstones, Kastur Jewels’s Art Deco Citrine & Lapis Cocktail Earrings will be perfect showstopping earrings to spruce up any outfit worn by the unfussy Sagittarians. Featuring 22ct plated on 925 silver and citrine, lapis, and zirconia.
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Capricorns + Anuka Jewellery’s Loka Curve Hoop Earrings in Gold = match made in heaven! Complimentary to any outfit, the versatility of this twist on a classic hoop earring will be appreciated by the busy sign. Featuring fair-mined and recycled precious metal and 18ct vermeil plate.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 “The Kimai Flow are the earring equivalent of a Friday”. For the fashionable Aquarius, these earrings are perfect for any day or nighttime look. Featuring 16ct recycled solid gold, oval drop centre and 10 lab grown diamonds.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
As a water sign representing lucid dreams and creativity, these Crescent Hoop Earrings by Kind Jewellery physicalise the imaginations of these floaty signs. Every earring purchase is a tree planted! Featuring 9ct yellow or rose gold.
All images and quotes via respective retailers You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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Photography - Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino Models - Tomos Owen @tomos_owen; Rosie Minako @rosie.minato Makeup - Dionne Ashby @deedeesbeauty Hair - Elena Katsarova @elegancehairstyles Wardrobe: Tomos wears: Robert Pierre @robertpierre_fashion; Rosie wears: Silver Dress - Silver Rose Corsetry @silver.rose.corsetry; White Dress - Alyona Malai @alyonamalai
Model: Katarzyna Searle @freckleface_5000 Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Sophie Battersby @makeupbysophie Photographer: Emma Phillipson @emmaphillipsonphotographer Fashion Designer/Accessory Designer: Anissa & NaĂŻma @lamecoeurparis Hair/MUA Assistant: Alexandra Hargreaves @akfx_artistry_
OPEN SESAME Morgiana is a sensual and enchanting dress from Lâme Cœur Paris New Collection: 'Ever After'. Lâme Cœur Paris is a French/English brand of alternative ceremony dresses for modern-day heroines. Our brand celebrates women forgotten, misrepresented or demonized in fairy/folk tales, through unique designs and shimmering colours. We’re inspired by our European culture and our North African roots. Handmade and sustainable, Lâme Cœur Paris is aimed at contemporary queens who want a mythical dress to tell their own story!
NEW RULES: HOW ALTERNATIVE MUSIC HAS BECOME A FASHION TRENDSETTER DURING LOCKDOWN This issue, Maria Henry explores the revival of alt music and fashion, the issue with using sub-cultures as aesthetics, and the wonder of women with mullets. One of the most interesting things to come out of the lockdown style-wise was the abandonment of any set fashion rules. Without anywhere to go and anything to do, and with the absence of the usual ‘trendsetters’ such as in-person fashion week shows and new film and television programmes, people began to experiment more and more with their individual fashion sense. As these things were all put on pause due to the social distancing guidelines, music became one of the only artistic mediums that could still be produced and experienced somewhat normally. As such, a lot of people started to turn towards music as a stylistic outlet.
fashion is characterised by freedom of expression, by being able to dress the way you want to express yourself. It first emerged with the punk movements of the 70s and 80s, later turning to grunge in the 90s.
We saw the revival of a lot of different era-specific clothing, such as Y2K-style low-rise jeans and tank tops, caps, and tennis skirts. The vibrant colours of the 80s, along with big blown-out fluffy hair, also made a comeback, as did 90s trends such as halter dresses, knee-high boots, and tiny shoulder bags.
Today's alt style in many ways is becoming a fashion subculture in of itself, taking old ideas and giving them new identities. Alt girls take elements from the 00’s emo and indie subcultures and revamp them for the internet age, creating a whole new style in itself. The new alt is often characterised by dyed hair, piercings, layered clothing, black tights, chains, fishnets, and chunky boots. Although the fashion trend is still associated with certain styles of music, as of late it has become more of a trend than a
If there is, however, one extremely notable trend in both music and fashion that emerged recently, it is that of alternative or alt fashion. Alt
The modern alt
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representation of a specific culture or interest, with lots of people creating videos on Instagram and TikTok where they try to put together alt outfits to try out the aesthetic. The pros and cons of aesthetics, and gentrification of the alt culture The idea of a sub-culture or genre becoming an aesthetic is both a negative and positive. One of the main negatives is the gentrification of alt culture. Alt culture stemmed from a love of music which went against the grain. Punk, rock, and grunge music were all about calling out the issues with society and accepting that non-traditional ways of living were just as valid as, if not better than, traditional societal-enforced roles. When a style influenced by this sort
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of cultural movement becomes a trend, it is in danger of losing its original meaning as it becomes something that you can sell – something that can turn a profit. This contributes to the gentrification of the movement, with people upselling alt clothing items for way more than they’re worth, making it inaccessible to those without money.
yourself. There is, however, one pro to it becoming a trend and this is that fashion can be used as a doorway for people to discover new music. People who identify with the style may too identify with the music, discovering and in many ways reviving the genre. Miley Cyrus and Mullets
This is a big issue, as the whole purpose of the alt movement was that anyone could create alt looks with whatever they had. It was an expression of self and culture, a state of mind, rather than an aesthetic requiring certain items. Another issue is that when a trend emerges – it is often representative of only one category of people. In the case of alt fashion, there has been an increasing trend of the most popular alt influencers being white, thin women. Alt fashion and music is for everyone, regardless of race, gender, or size, but the way it is often seen online is only through one specific type of influencer. This is once again an issue as it erases the meaning of the culture, it creates an idealisation that to dress alt you have to be this one type of person, that you can’t be
The mullet has been everywhere lately. For all genders, we’ve seen this becoming the new big thing in hair. The original business in the front, party in the back hairstyle was mainly associated with men in the 80s – it represented a sort of freespirit masculinity associated with rock-and-roll and punk music. However, the mullet, in a different sense, has also always been a female hairstyle. Known as a shag, this layered hairstyle was seen on the likes of Dolly Parton, Stevie Nicks, and Farrah Fawcett. It is a slightly toned-down version of the mullet, with a focus on lots of short layers, emphasising the top of the head. Within the last year, these have been seen all over Instagram, with influencers like British author
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Florence Given (@florencegiven) and American poet Orian Carloto (@orianvanessa) rocking the look. The mullet has been seen all over TikTok lately and has become associated with alt style. Its popularity only continued to grow over lockdown, and searches for “how to cut a mullet” have risen by 124% recently. One of the factors involved in this is that it’s a somewhat easy style to cut yourself, and numerous videos have emerged online with people taking their haircuts into their own hands. With the absence of salons during the lockdown, these videos offered people a chance to get creative with their at-home hair jobs – trying out something new now that they don’t have to go to work or school. The mullet recently made a huge revival when it was seen on pop icon Miley Cyrus. Miley debuted her new look at the MTV VMA’s and it received a major positive reaction. People loved the androgynous, punkrock look that she was channelling for the release of her new music. It even prompted a trend on social media in which people would post a
LONDON RUNWAY photo of themselves and caption it: “If Miley comments I’ll get her haircut”. Miley’s new style draws heavily on conventions of 80s alt legends such as Blondie frontwoman Debbie Harry and The Runaways’ Joan Jett. The anything-goes sort of fashion sense, which includes sequined jumpsuits, vintage band T’s, leather trousers, gold chains, and lots of costume jewellery is a nod to 80s punk rock with a modern twist. Her new style perfectly complements the alt-rock tone of her new music and has contributed to her re-invention from pop artist to modern rock star.
Everything comes back around If there is anything to note from the re-emergence of trends such as altinspired fashion and 80’s mullets, it’s that everything comes back around. This is similar within the music industry with 70’s synth-heavy pop making a revival earlier this year (think, Dua Lipa, The Weeknd) and rock music coming in hot and heavy recently. If anything, this is a wonderful thing as it allows people to experience things that they otherwise would have missed out on. It also works to revive and keep genres and sub-cultures alive as the youth continue to enjoy and share them. Although some would argue that with revival some of the original meaning of a culture is lost, the world is constantly changing. When we apply a modern perspective to an old trend it doesn’t always result in a negative, but rather, we could work to make these old sub-cultures more inclusive and diverse. For example, the mullet was a traditionally male look, but now it is seen as a style that anyone can rock, regardless of gender identity. Toeing the line between aesthetics and revival isn’t always easy, but with every generation, there are people out there who are willing to try.
If you enjoyed this article and would like to read more, take a look @mariawriteshere on Twitter.
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STARDUST Photographer: Lucia Baiocco @namelesslucy.ph Makeup Artist: Martina Cavalletti @martinacavalletti_mua Model: Elena Fattorini @elenafattorini_ Elena wears: Dior foundation
Elena wears: Dior foundation; Top and Skirt - Zara
TAMANA Retoucher: Naeem Rana @photomagic0007
Makeup Artist: Anita Pillai @ap_asianbridemakeup Creative Director/Photographer: Jason Worsley/Mj Production @mjproductionltd Accessory Designer: Harvey Fashion @harveysfashion Model: Sheetal Gill @sheetal_gillx Fashion Designer: Monalisa Sarees @monalisasarees Wardrobe Stylist: ABM Pro @abmprolondon
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
You can only keep one of your five senses. which one?
&
“Smell can go, because there’s so many bad smells in the world, so we’ll lose that. I’m such a foodie, I’d really want to keep taste, but then… no, I’d have to go for hearing, I still want to be able to listen to music. If I could do nothing else, I’d still want to be able to sing and play and hear it, and listen to other peoples’ music”
"Simple... as a photographer, I choose sight" - Lorenzo Mazzarino, Photographer
– Benedict Cork, singer-songwriter
"MY HEARING! I COULDN'T IMAGINE A LIFE WITHOUT MUSIC" - Hannah Lewis, Face of London Runway 2020
"It would be SO HARD to live in a world without good food or music... but I have to choose my eyes. Without sight, I couldn't take pictures, and it would be so much harder to read and write. And put together issues of London Runway, obviously!"
“"Easy choice. As a photographer I choose sight"”
- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor - Fil Mazzarino, Photographer
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
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BACK COVER: THE UNSEEN OUTTAKES BY RHIANNON D'AVERC