SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS RESULTS + INTERVIEWS . LONDON VINTAGE SHOP GUIDE . BRIDGERTON FASHION
RECYCLED FASHION . FASHION 4 AFRICA . PAST ERAS OF FASHION . JEWELLERY DESIGN COMPETITION
ISSUE 58 27TH JANUARY 2021
THE OLD AND NEW ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Senior Photographer:Â Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Senior Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Maria Henry, Cicilia Brognoli Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Mahoo Studio, Ardalan Maroufi, Natalya Asal Shams, Veda Wildfire, Nick Wilson, Natalia Chelik, Natalya, Fabian Bunescu, LanaSvet, Zorina Alla, Irina Gavrilenko, Alexandra France, Viktoria Kalmykova, Helvethet, Klara Puzon, Anetta Stavorwicz, MyCatherina, Satyrja, Roshka Photography, Angelica, Yulia, Noella Dominguez, Melissa Luke, Stefania Sanna, Monika Dolna Couture, Leandra Haupt, Inna Pollie, Valliance Photography, Ines Relvas, Gina Parr, Francesca De Nigris, Salma Binta, Daisy Sheperd Cross, Roy Hayward, Nurizhat Osmanova, Julia Che, Alim Kara, Dream The Model, Andre Donley, Vicky DePiore, Vivienne Monique, Takeisha Batchelor, Stefani Kolevska, Miele Moda, Adrianna Ostrowska Couture, Dani Geddes, Kingdom Boutique, Ninah Aguila, Christina Hedges, Renata Love, Fabio Butera, Sara Barbato, Marilena Lasalandra, Hannah Rademaker, Jada Monae, Marilyn Agency NY, Ashley Gallerani, Rose Mae Turner, Pietro Recchia, Ama Jones Special thanks to Ellie Gill, Ipseity, PopVenus, Dappled Shade, and DeMoo Jeans Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Advertising department Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
Š 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
63 VISUALS
74 Street Style Photoshoot With Ama Jones
112
Flashback: Fashion 4 Africa 2019
116
Teddy Style (Editorial)
7
The Sea Wolf (Editorial)
14
WORDS
India In Istanbul (Editorial)
20
4
New Faces
27
London Runway Sustainability Awards: The Results
Portfolio Piece
33
London Runway Sustainability Awards: The Interviews
10
Flawless Elegance With An Edge (Editorial)
35
How I Travel Light With Photoshoot Essentials
25
Past Future (Editorial)
58
Interview: Ellie Gill
54
Rococo Snow Punk (Cover Editorial) 63
Your Guide to Vintage Shopping in 71 London
Style (Conscious) Guide: Vintage Twist
70
Packed Skier (Editorial)
74
It's The 90's For Me (Editorial)
79
Sugar Plum Fairies (Editorial)
86
A Regency Era Revival: How 'Bridgerton' is Changing the Future of Fashion by Bringing Back the Past
Fashion in a Cage (Editorial)
93
Your Style Horoscope
Somewhere Between Lorimer + Broadway (Editorial)
98
Jewellery Competition
Olivia's Journey
The Big Question
84 95
108 120 122
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Welcome to 2021! What a year it’s been already – and not necessarily in a good way… It’s easy to give into existential despair when the news doesn’t switch to positive things only as soon as the new year begins, but in retrospect, it was always bound to be this way. Change happens in small increments, and it doesn’t respect nice neat cut-off points like the start of a new year. We’ve been looking on the positive side of things with our London Runway Sustainability Awards, which we held earlier this month on Instagram Live (for lack of access to an in-person venue, of course). It’s still available to watch on our IGTV, and we’ve got some goodies for you in this issue all related to the winners of the different categories. It’s onwards and upwards
now, as we’re launching a brand-new competition already! This one is for budding or established jewellery designers, and I think you’ll find it pretty exciting. Flip to the end of the issue for all of the details on that if you just can’t wait. We are as committed as ever to making big changes and big strides forwards in 2021. With our print issues now all created with recycled paper, we still have some big targets on the list – one of them being fully recyclable or biodegradable packaging for our online orders. We haven’t quite got there yet, but we’re still on the hunt and working with producers to try to find a solution that suits us down to the ground. We’re also aiming, as always, for a more diverse and positively representative range of editorials and events to cover.
If you’re a model with a difference, someone who doesn’t see yourself represented often in the media, make sure to head to kavyar.com/Londonrunway-magazine. We’ve set up some new categories this month to make it easier for you to submit, including a new fiction category and one for interviews. We’d love to hear from you. I’ve done enough gabbing on in your faces this month after that livestreamed awards ceremony, so I’ll leave it there and let you discover all of the wonderful things we have to share in this issue for yourself. I particularly like the editorials, the interview with our advent calendar winner Ellie Gill, and the thoughtful piece from the mother of a model with Down’s Syndrome, but then I’m biased. Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS:
THE RESULTS
This winter, we’ve been collecting your nominations and votes for the best fashion brands and individuals who are making a difference with sustainability right now. The voting was fierce with several nominees fighting it out for the titles, and now we’re able to reveal who the winners were! We held a short, but sweet ceremony on Instagram Live in which we announced the winners and also got the chance to talk to a few of them while you all watched. If you missed it, be sure to check out our IGTV at @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to watch the video back! We felt a lot of love both from you guys and the nominees and winners on the night, as everyone took to the live comments feed to express just how important sustainability is for them. Take this opportunity to check out the brands who you and your fellow readers voted in as our winners – all of them are doing their bit to save our planet while also living fashionably!
INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR The person that has promoted and encouraged a more eco-friendly way of life with a substantial social media presence, whose posts you always look forward to seeing.
POPVENUS @popvenus
SUSTAINABLE STORE OF THE YEAR The store that has been at the forefront of sustainable fashion or production, whether a single brand, department store, pop-up, or even just an online shop.
LONE DESIGN CLUB @lonedesignclub
BEST SUSTAINABLE MAKEUP BRAND The cruelty-free, sustainable and eco makeup brand we all need on our faces.
VYANA PLANT BEAUTY @vyanabeauty
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LONDON RUNWAY
SUSTAINABLE BREAKTHROUGH OF THE YEAR A recent policy, change or reform that has paved the ways for ecological change and positivity with the biggest impact.
IPSEITY @weareipseity
BEST SUSTAINABLE FASHION DESIGNER The designer that devotes themselves and their work to environmentally friendly practices and methods.
DEMOO JEANS @demoojeans
BEST SUSTAINABLE ACCESSORIES DESIGNER The sustainable and eco-friendly accessories brand you love for jazzing up your outfits
DAPPLED SHADE @dappledshade
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LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY SUSTAINABLE HERO OF THE YEAR Our team took all of the winners and then voted to decide who amongst them was the most worthy of praise this year – our hero! It wasn’t hard to decide: when they learned of their nomination, Ipseity came forward to say that they would plant extra trees based on the number of likes they received. We can now say that as a direct result of the Sustainability Awards, fifty-five trees have been planted, all thanks to your votes!
The winners will be coming together in a photoshoot to showcase all of their gorgeous and sustainable products as soon as we’re able to safely and responsibly be on set together, according to the government’s guidelines. Stay tuned for that in an upcoming issue!
IPSEITY @weareipseity
Meanwhile, check out the next few pages as we have a quick word with some of the brands that won – so you can find out more about them and what they are doing to make a difference! Remember, we only have one planet
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Earth… there’s no plan B! This year, make an effort to live more sustainably, whether through shopping sustainable brands, buying vintage or pre-loved clothing and selling your own, avoiding fast fashion, or rejecting plastic as often as possible. Together, we can continue to make a difference!
TEDDY STYLE Photography - Ardalan Maroufi @analogartwork Wardrobe: Mahoo Studio mahoo__studio Model: Natalya Asal Shams
LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS:
THE INTERVIEWS
We chatted with a few of the brands you selected as your winners, to get the scoop on what goes on behind the scenes...
WHAT'S THE STORY BEHIND YOUR BRAND? IPSEITY ip·se·ity | \ ipˈsēətē\ (n.) selfhood – the quality of being oneself. | the essential element of individual identity.
IPSEITY
IPSEITY is a London-based concept brand: a multichannel platform for fashion’s best and most unique upcoming designers. A go-to place for unique, ethical and sustainable fashion pieces. There’s too much of the same. Our mission is to give you a story to tell that is longer than one word, when you’re asked where you got your unique piece. We think, all you need is less. That’s why we curate unique collections of one-off pieces, most of them made from leftovers fabrics and materials, from an array of innovative, international designers. We care deeply about the planet and creating a business that gives back to nature. That’s why we’re thrilled to share that we’re partnering with One Tree Planted to plant a tree for every product sold. WHAT CAN YOUR CUSTOMERS EXPECT FROM YOU? We believe sustainability is a way of life and fashion can be a part of it too. This is why we curate for you ethical and sustainable designers who can give you genuine reasons to buy fashion. You have the right to know how a design was made, using which materials and where in the world. This is the
transparency that everyone now needs to make the right choices towards a better future. By shopping from small and independent brands, you can have the privilege to benefit from total transparency as the designers source, design and manufacture locally. On top of that, you can be sure that we will plant a tree on your behalf every time you purchase with us, and you will receive a tree certificate so you know where your tree has been planted! WHY IS SUSTAINABILITY IMPORTANT TO YOU? Sustainability is the future, our future, but also the future of the coming generations. We, human beings, are not going to survive in the long term without sustainability. The Planet can do good without us, but we cannot without her. I’m not saying that our whole lifestyle has to change drastically, but if everyone does at least a step towards sustainability, this step, on a global level, will make a big and positive impact. FINALLY, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU'D LIKE TO SAY TO ALL THOSE WHO VOTED FOR YOU? We would like to say a massive thank you to all of you who have voted for us! Your support means a lot to us, and this is the sparkle that motivates us to continue our mission towards a more positive and fair fashion industry. Ipseity wouldn’t have survived 2020 without you! We would also like to take this opportunity to say that even though our mission and values stay the same,
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we are working on a new direction for the platform as we know that supporting your well-being is essential to you and to us, so stay tuned, we’re cooking you something great!
LONDON RUNWAY
WHAT'S THE STORY BEHIND YOUR BRAND? Just over a year ago, after arriving at the University of Leeds, I decided to try and make a bit of money selling makeup bags, made by me, Gemma. This is how Dappled Shade was born. It started off slow but during the first lockdown I had much more time to focus and I decided to really go for it - designing lots of new products of which there are now 10, including laptop cases and leather earrings made from scrap leather. It is now an up and coming accessories brand with sustainability at its heart – something I believe deeply in and the importance of which has at last become more widely recognised over the last couple of years. All of my products are made from up-cycled fabric, which is donated to me in the form of anything from unwanted clothes and blankets to even unused shower curtains – which I use as waterproof lining for wash bags! WHAT CAN YOUR CUSTOMERS EXPECT FROM YOU? Something that makes Dappled Shade stand out is the custom-made products – I am open to all requests and put my all into creating something new and unique for each one, be it a personalised wash bag with embroidered initials or an entirely new product like a denim clutch! I strive to produce products of the highest quality while keeping sustainability at the forefront of the brand so my customers can rely on me to fulfil their every need when it comes to shopping responsibly.
equal responsibility to assist consumers in transitioning to more sustainable practices through more ethically conscious marketing, which is why sustainability is so important to Dappled Shade. FINALLY, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU'D LIKE TO SAY TO ALL THOSE WHO VOTED FOR YOU? Yes, a HUGE thank you to everyone who voted for me and believed in me – I am honoured to have been recognised and over the moon to have won! And thank you to everyone who has backed me from the start, especially to my brother Sam, who has helped and taught me so much along the way!
DAPPLED SHADE
WHY IS SUSTAINABILITY IMPORTANT TO YOU? The endless ecological threats due to unsustainable human activity are well documented, and intensified by a growing population and demand for fast fashion. Without a huge change in the way we live, the next generation will be seeing a slow deterioration of this planet. Sustainability is important to me because of its importance to the survival of the world we live in. While we can acknowledge that consumers have a responsibility to be conscious of their consumption habits, companies have an
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LONDON RUNWAY
WHAT'S THE STORY BEHIND YOUR BRAND? I started my blog during the first UK lockdown last year. Since I was unable to connect with people in real life, I decided to take this opportunity to start connecting with others online. I chose to focus my page on skincare, self-care and sustainability because that's what I am most passionate about. Sustainable living has been one of the things that I've introduced into my life a couple of years ago and I wanted to share my tips for better and simple living. WHAT CAN YOUR FOLLOWERS EXPECT FROM YOU? My Instagram mainly focuses on skincare and self-care product reviews,
mindful living and home styling inspirations. On my page you can find tips for sustainable home decor pieces, detailed reviews about skincare products and the brands behind them as well as self-care posts in which I discuss self-love and mindfulness. WHY IS SUSTAINABILITY IMPORTANT TO YOU? Through sustainability, I learned about more mindful living. Educating myself about our planet and how we can help the environment led me to supporting smaller and more environmentally friendly businesses. Sustainability also has helped me to reduce waste by purchasing good quality items or second hand rather than shopping in fast fashion.
FINALLY, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU'D LIKE TO SAY TO ALL THOSE WHO VOTED FOR YOU? I just would like to thank everyone who took time to check London Runway's Instagram page and voted for me. This nomination has truly made this new year so much better.
@POP VENUS
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LONDON RUNWAY
WHAT'S THE STORY BEHIND YOUR BRAND?
WHY IS SUSTAINABILITY IMPORTANT TO YOU?
DeMoo Jeans is a student-led and sustainable fashion brand, founded in March 2018 when we were all in our first year at Durham University. We take a firm stance against fast fashion, hence our focus on up-cycling old and unwanted denim into new and unique styles.
We are trying to show one demographic in particular that it is not hard to choose more sustainable lifestyle options and that group is students. For us, it is really important to show students how we can do our part for society in leading a more sustainable life. It is important to us because the fashion industry is often overlooked as a big polluting industry, for more familiar industries like energy or construction.
Tonnes of denim is dumped into landfill sites each year in the UK, with a large part of this being shipped off abroad. This is a completely inadequate way of dealing with the UK’s fashion waste. We hunt around the UK’s best charity shops and second hand online platforms, to find the best unwanted denim. We then add colourful trims and embroidery to give the jeans a new life. We also make headbands from the trims. All jeans are custom made to order. We have a huge stockpile of jeans in different sizes (We have so far made jeans for length 28 to 36 and waist 24 to 34), colours (white, blue and black), and styles (flare, kick flare, bootcut, straight leg). Customers then choose their size, colour and style of jeans. The next step is for the customer to choose the combination of trims they would like. Customers can design their unique combination or we can help them in deciding.
FINALLY, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU'D LIKE TO SAY TO ALL THOSE WHO VOTED FOR YOU? Firstly, thank you! It honestly means so much to us that you have voted for our brand. We started DeMoo Jeans with no expectations and winning this award has been such a fabulous treat to start the year. Well done to all the brands nominated!
Just over two years old, we have reached 10k followers on Instagram, been featured in 30 UK fashion shows, held three pop-up shops and run two successful Brand Ambassador programmes. Our current 2020-2021 programme has 15 delightful female university students enrolled on, who help to spread the DeMoo word. WHAT CAN YOUR CUSTOMERS EXPECT FROM YOU? Autonomy and choice! With every pair of jeans made to order, customers can have as much say (or as little) as they want in the choice of their design, size, fit and colour combination.
DEMOOJEANS PAGE 13
THE SEA WOLF Wardrobe Stylist/Creative Director/Photographer/Retoucher: Veda Wildfire @vedawildfire Model: Nick Wilson @wilsonknickit
Nick wears: Coat - Zara; Trousers - River Island; Scarf - John Lewis; Hat - Vintage; T-shirt - Fat Face
Nick wears: Coat - Zara; Trousers - River Island; Scarf - John Lewis; Hat - Cord Lennon; T-shirt - Fat Face; Braces - Riona
Nick wears: Trousers - River Island; Hat - Vintage; T-shirt - Zara; Shoes - Vintage; Rain Coat - Nameless by Gleb Kirenkov
Nick wears: Trousers - River Island; Scarf - John Lewis; Hat Vintage; T-shirt - Fat Face; Shoes - Dr. Martens; Braces - Riona
Nick wears: Trousers - River Island; Hat - Vintage; T-shirt - Zara; Shoes - Vintage; Rain Coat - Nameless by Gleb Kirenkov
Photography - Natalia Chelik @nataliaspringphoto Model: Natalya @nata_peri
HOW I TRAVEL LIGHT WITH PHOTOSHOOT ESSENTIALS Chief Editor Rhiannon D’Averc shares her secrets to always getting to every location shoot with just one bag – super useful for moving around the city! I travel around to photoshoot locations a lot, particularly in the summer, as I prefer to work on location. However, this means I have to take everything I need for the shoot with me. But, as long-term readers or my followers may know, I live with fibromyalgia, meaning it’s easy for me to get tired very quickly when carrying heavy things. So, how do I manage to bring everything I need and still travel light? Here’s how…
HAVE A MASSIVE HANDBAG. My handbag is huge for normal circumstances, but I can fit an A4 folder for model release forms as well as my camera, 2 lenses, and a reflector inside without struggling at all. This really helps because it’s comfortable to carry and doesn’t look like an obvious target for anyone looking to grab a tourist camera. It also means I’m only carrying one bag, instead of a second camera bag.
CUT DOWN MORE.
UPLOAD LATER.
Even when you have what you think are your photoshoot essentials, you can probably cut down more. Do you really need a heavy battery pack on your DSLR? I have never once run out of battery, even when I spent 3 days continuously shooting. Your standard battery is probably good enough if you’re not using live shooting modes that keep your LCD screen on. Are you really going to need a reflector? If I’m in a location where there won’t be room to use it, I don’t bring it. You don’t need a tripod for shooting on location. Most of the time you won’t even be allowed to use it. You don’t need all those little extras and accessories either.
It’s possible to get the photos uploaded to the cloud right away, and you can take a laptop to sit and edit on the train. Or you can spend the time doing something else and just edit when you’re home. I don’t carry bulky equipment like a laptop - I just plan to edit later. At the most I’ll bring my tablet for emailing, reading, and entertaining myself in the gaps between shoots, but a phone is usually enough. This also holds my portfolio, so there’s no need for prints. And you certainly don’t need bulky cables used for connecting your laptop and camera, or a card reader, or any other associated ephemera.
Really look at what you have in your bag and be brutal. If it’s only something you ‘might possibly be able to use’, and not a ‘need’, leave it behind.
Alright, a handbag might still look a bit odd for male photographers (if you’re not embracing your inner Harry Styles and throwing gender norms to the wind). But in that case, you could still use a simple messenger bag which will not look out of place.
KNOW YOUR NEEDS. I don’t always carry my flashgun, for example, and I never have more than 2 lenses with me. I know what I’m going to do for the shoot and therefore I know what I need to use. Too many new or hobby photographers carry around huge lenses for no reason. My 50mm rarely comes off the camera because I don’t need to use other lenses in my normal day-to-day shoots.
All images by Rhiannon D'Averc
Find more of Rhiannon’s work by following her on Twitter or Instagram @rhiannondaverc.
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That’s it! At the end of the day, travelling light is about reducing the essentials down to what will actually be the essentials. You may be surprised to find what you do and don’t actually need. Having trouble deciding? Try this trick: on your next shoot, take a pack of sticky tabs (normally used for bookmarking pages) with you. Every time you use an item, put a tab on it. When you get home, you’ll know which items were just dead weight.
Previous page: Models - Jay Tarone, Johnny Cheung This page: Models - Amira Sahraoui, Jordan Walfall Jr, Juan Palomino, Bate Nate H
LONDON RUNWAY
FABIAN Name: Fabian Bunescu Age: 6 Location: Chisinau, Moldova Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? My first photosession was at 3 years old, after which I continued filming for various commercials and various photoshoots for local brands and fashion shows. Where are you from originally? I’m from the Republic of Moldova, Chișinau Do you have an unusual talent or
party trick? At the moment I haven’t discovered any talent, but I love to do more activities such as sports, dancing, drawing.... What would surprise people to know about you? I’m a very friendly boy, I always like to make friends, I’m also a party boy, I love animals so much that when I grow up I will help all the animals in need. What are your modelling ambitions? My ambitions are high, I would like to reach famous brands and to be on the cover of a magazine, but also on famous catwalks
Model: Fabian Bunescu @Lil_fabio13 Photographer: LanaSvet @lana_svet_photo Wardrobe: Zara Kids @Zarakids
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LONDON RUNWAY
ZORINA Name: Zorina Alla Age: 37 Location: Moskva Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I have been working as a model for 13 years. Where are you from originally? Ukraine Do you have an unusual talent or
party trick? I’m a designer decorator What would surprise people to know about you? I became a famous model after having children. I'm a weather mom. I have a son and a daughter. What are your modelling ambitions? My dream is to shoot for foreign publications and become the face of an advertising company of a wellknown brand.
Model: Alla Zorina @Zorinalla Wardrobe Stylist: Alexandra France @inside_pro.fashion Photographer: Irina Gavrilenko @irisgavr Makeup Artist: Viktoria Kalmykova @vi.ka_makeup Clothing - @missvoyage_missvoyage Accessories- @kyleaccessory
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LONDON RUNWAY
HELVETHET Name: Marina Volodina aka HELVETHET Age: There is already the number 3 on the front Location: Poland Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I have been modelling for 7 years. Where are you from originally? I am from Poland. Do you have an unusual talent or
party trick? Kindness and honesty are my unusual talents.. What would surprise people to know about you? Many people are surprised to find that apart from modeling, I am also a vocalist and teacher What are your modelling ambitions? I love diversity in my work - I would like to continue my development by participating in various types of shootings.
Photographers: Klara Puzoń; Anetta Starowicz @anettastar.foto; MyCatherina @mycatherina; Satyrja @satyrja_ Model/Makeup Artist: HELVETHET @helvethet
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ROSHKA PHOTOGRAPHY BLACK WIDOW I made this portrait on 120 B&W film. I wanted to show how cruel life can be to us. A young girl who is just beginning her life is left alone. Alone in her grief. She is beautiful, but she is unhappy. The black veil shows sorrow and the beauty beneath the veil. Model: Angelica.
Photographer: Roshka Photography @roshka.photography
portfolio piece PORTRAIT OF YULIA With this portrait, I tried to express the mood and show the inner world of the model. She is tender and beautiful. She tries to be strong, but she is a modest girl. She is beautiful and charming.
These photos were taken by me in Chernobyl zone. The tragedy of all mankind. Many deaths. A tragedy that has affected many generations. Everyone remembers this.
Photo taken on film. Simplicity and undisguised beauty. Model: Angelica
FLAWLESS ELEGANCE WITH AN EDGE
This collection is expressing the wild beauty of nature in a very elegant way. All designs are the result of re-exploring the wildness of nature, 3D texture, movement and abstract art. Inspiration for this collection came from mushroom texture. Since then,texture can be found in the most unexpected forms of nature. Raw edges of fabric and softness of the textile are creating a gracious movement and a faux feather/fur look. All designs are beautifully hand made. Some takes over 80 hours to make with meters and meters of fabric precisely cut and stitched. Colour textures were precisely designed to escalate the drama, wildness and edginess. The main fabric used is chiffon. Models: Noelia Dominguez @noeliadomiguezmillan; Melissa Luke @_melissaluke_ Makeup: Stefania Sanna @stefaniamakeupartistry Designer: Monika Dolna Couture @monika_dolna / @monikadolnacouture Photographer: Fil Mazzarino
INTERVIEW: ELLIE GILL This issue, we speak to actress and model Ellie Gill, the winner of our advent calendar giveaway!
Who are you and what do you do? I’m Ellie. I’m originally from Leamington Spa in Warwickshire, and I have a degree in Sociology. I went to the University of Warwick and did four years there. Haven’t used a lot of that degree at all, but then I think a lot of people don’t! After that I went travelling but then went to drama school and did one year in professional acting at Drama Studio London, and I graduated in 2017 - saying 2017 feels like an absolute mammoth time ago! But since then, I've been acting. Theatre, comedy roles, a lot of improvisation. And then in 2019, in summer, I saw Fig Leaves were looking for some real women to do their latest campaign so I applied for that. I'd always like been interested in modelling, but had been more focused on my acting at that point. So, I applied to Fig Leaves for this campaign and I ended up getting a getting spot and doing that.
I had the most amazing day working with Fig Leaves and doing a shoot in my underwear, about positivity. And that was exactly what I needed - I was like, if I get good feedback, maybe I'll do this. I did get some good feedback and I got some great photos and I was like, okay, I'm going to try and pursue this. So I wrote to some agents and got put on a few books. It kind of went from there really, I was really lucky to have my first proper modelling job for Boots. And sort of since then just been doing more modelling and acting together. And they go really hand in hand, a lot. How's it been during lockdown? Oh, well, let's say that you can't not like Zoom, can you? [laughs] Oh my god, I think there's been a lot more modelling work than acting work, because - apart from obviously getting hair and makeup done by someone, which I did a lot of myself - in the end, with modelling you can kind of have that that social distance and you can make it quite a safe set. Whereas with acting, you're reliant on relationships and being together with people so that died out really. So, I was able to do a few photo shoots over lockdown. I was very lucky with that. There's big differences with them but I got a few things. Everything else was sort of over Zoom, you have to really learn how to do great self tapes and lots of modelling self tapes where you need to have full body length all the time. I don't think I have a big enough space in my house where I can’t get my recycling in and old gin bottles – I think they’re going to think I’m an alcoholic! [laughs]
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That’s been quite a challenge, trying to find the space. To do these extra demands that are now there because they can't see you in person. And I think that's kind of really highlighted, generally, inequality. When I was doing some Equity stuff they were talking about how it highlighted the differences in the accessibility into the industry. You need to be able to have lights and a good phone to record, a tripod and, you know, space in your house. So I think it's definitely made it more challenging for people. When you turn up in a room, no one knows what your background is. When you're recording from home, people know more, it feels more personal and people know more about you. People don't have the same equipment and so I think it's highlighted the difficulties that people could have with this new way of being.
But then also it just feels less personal. And, you know, you really want to make friends with the people that you're meeting and you really want to show them you. I don't feel like you can do that on a 10 minute Zoom call. There's so many positives and so many… not negatives, just not so great elements, about the way that we're working really.
The first episode, I filmed that before the first lockdown and then it was aired in April during lockdown - which was kind of weird to watch because everyone’s near each other! So that might still be on there to have a look at. That's quite fun.
Talking of getting to know you better… is there anything that people can watch online of yours that's been recorded?
When I approached my agent that I signed with, I didn't really have much of a portfolio. I didn't have really any idea what I was doing! I just had the pictures from the Fig Leaves and some pictures in my jeans and a top because I saw that’s what you’re meant to do.
Oh, good question. I was on Joe Lycett’s Got Your Back, on series two episode one, that might still be on All4.
I think the same in the acting world as well, although the Zoom castings and Zoom interviews have helped people who can't afford to travel up and down the country. So it's like swings and roundabouts really.
Have you witnessed or had, in your own experience, any negative things with the Zoom calls? Not negative… I think it's a lot more difficult than being in the room because you don't get any body language from anybody. And you can't really have any small talk. Because it's all everyone sort of expecting something if you log on, they're like, “okay, go”! You don't feel like people get to know you as a person. You don't get to get your personality across as much on Zoom. And Zoom’s draining, I can’t imagine how it is for casting directors or whatever to sit on a Zoom for hours and hours and hours and they probably don't want to do small talk. It's hard enough in the room! But I do feel like it is great to be able to have that time saved from travelling an hour wherever to go for five minutes and then leave again. It's nice to save the money from that.
Talk us through the process of getting signed with agencies.
LONDON RUNWAY And I spent ages, taking those pictures of myself, not being able to get ones I liked, trying to get the right lighting, trying to get them of myself on a little timer on my phone! I think the biggest hurdle I had was not having any other material. Obviously I was lucky enough that this was 2019 so thankfully the pandemic hadn’t started yet so I was able to get some shoots done to get some footage, but had it been this year I would have really struggled. I have quite a lot of knowledge on how the industry works from being an actor but I found it very different being on the modelling side of things. But I think everyone in the modelling world is just very lovely, really, really nice. And there's something about being in the curve division that‌ I don't know what it's like for normal models, I know there's quite a lot of pressure to keep a certain size, and that isn't really the case - obviously I like to keep my measurements as much as I can but in the curve division there's a lot more, you know, we are who we are. We want to show what real women look like, and all the other models I've met have been really positive, really lovely, all my agents are just lovely, really supportive. And everyone I've worked with has been really delightful and it's really nice. I'm not saying it's not like that on the acting side of things, but I just noticed from all my experiences with modelling it's been very positive. I think you know when you're hiring a curved model that they are quite happy in their skin. It's a very positive message, so I think there's always that feeling of empowerment, when you're on set anyway.
Do you think it's important that we, in the media especially, have those representations of different bodies? Yeah, definitely. I think it's important to note that there's a lot of skinny shaming and I think that's unfair. I think the problem was that only smaller size models were being shown so therefore, there was a lot of negativity towards the industry. I think it's just important to have representation across all body shapes and sizes. Whether that be very small to very big. I think every single size has its place and I think we should be saying to women, you can look like anything. I'm aware that curve is a big thing at the moment, it's absolutely great. I don't ever want slimmer women to feel out of place.
There are women who that's just not their natural body shape and they eat absolutely tonnes every day but they’ve got a fast metabolism and that's what they look like. I think we just need to celebrate that everyone looks different. You look great and you are great how you are, and I think especially with the pandemic and the lockdown, everyone sort of feels like they've eaten too much, and feels not themselves in a quite a few different ways. I think there's so much to be said to just be like, this is alright. Yes, it's been a really shit year, but it's okay because we're all in this together, and it doesn't matter. And you know if you feel a bit heavier and you feel like you want to lose weight, you can lose the weight, no big deal.
What can you tell me about your personal style? I like slightly quirky things. I'm not really a plain person. I love patterns, anything pattern I buy it pretty much. And then that becomes really problematic when I have to do a self tape for some photos because they’re like, just bring some plain tops and I'm like, “oh…” [laughs] So I had to invest in some plain clothes. I like bold patterns, I like a lot of dresses, longer skirts. It's really hard right now because I feel like I've just lived in lounge pants. I miss dressing up, you know, you kind of feel like you dress up to go to the doctors. But I like just kind of making a bit of a statement. I love Doc Martens, I wear them with like everything. I just appreciate a well made item, you know, if I see something good that's well made, that catches my eye. That's the kind of thing. I just appreciate a good piece of clothing.
Photography by: @cmrphotography93, Fig Leaves, Hannah Green @hannahgreenphoto, @webuydesigner, Edward Howell @edwardhowellphotography
And you'll lose it when you lose it, or just be how you are, you know, just think being okay with what's happened and being okay with how you look and how you feel and try to remember that everyone's gone through this together. And that's what gets me through it anyway.
It's beautiful. Of course, you are beautiful. It’s all quirks and great things, and the things you don't you don't like, other people are going to love. People see the things you don't like about yourself and really wish [they] had that and you'll be like, what? but honestly, they will. No two people are the same.
Do you have any tips that you would give to people who maybe don't feel comfortable in their bodies?
Especially with the plastic surgery surge at the moment, there's quite a lot of it on TV. And I think that doesn't give the right impression, thinking that you need to change things. Just remember that you don't, just try and love yourself because you’re brilliant. It’s hard, it takes ages, and you won't always love every single part of yourself, but you’ve got to just be happy, just accept it.
I would remind people that no one feels comfortable all the time. Even the people who have the most confidence aren’t completely confident, everyone's got an insecurity, so you're not alone. It’s just a natural thing, but I think just embrace what you've been given.
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Past Future Model: Leandra Haupt @Leandrahaupt Makeup Artist: Inna Pollie @innapollie Photographer: Valiance Photography @valiancephotography
Leandra wears: Dress - H&M; Jacket - Vintage; Bag Vintage; Glasses - Zara; Shoes - Deichmann
Leandra wears: Sweater - Bershka; Skirt - Vintage; Mask - Pure Happy Healthy; Glasses - Zara; Shoes - Deichmann
Leandra wears: Jacket - La Fee Maraboute; Bag - Vintage
Leandra wears: Jacket - Vintage; Dress - H&M; Glasses - Zara
Leandra wears: Jacket - Vintage; Dress - H&M; Shoes - Deichmann; Glasses - Zara
ROCOCO SNOW PUNK When French sophistication of the 18th century meets SS21 we experience the emergence of a Marie Antoinette of the XXI Century. The shapes, the drama, but yet its peace can be sensed from miles away. We are welcoming 2021 with pastel colors, focusing on the light clothing and intimate wear that now became our daily garment. Just like Marie Antoinette used to walk around Versaille in her Chemise a la Reine, womenswear in 2021 will bring intimacy to the streets with a sense of tranquility. This is the idea that we created with the stylist Ines Relvas, in the charming location of Holland Park in London. Wardrobe Stylist: Ines Relvas @351inesrelvas Photographer: Francesca De Nigris @francescadenigrisphotographer Makeup Artist: Gina Parr @ginaparr_makeup Styling assistant: Salma Binta @Itssalmabintastyling Model: Daisy Sheperd Cross @daisys.c Hair Stylist: Roy Hayward @royhaywardhair
Daisy wears: Top - Vaeg @vaegstudio; Skirt - Kiki Riki @kikiriki; Shoes - @malonesouliers
Daisy wears: Dress - Zimmeran @zimmerman; Top - Monika Dolna @monikadolnacouture
Daisy wears: Dress - Zimmeran @zimmerman; Top - Monika Dolna @monikadolnacouture
Daisy wears: Jewellery - Marcin Giebultowski @marcingiebultowski
Daisy wears: Dress - Kiki Riki @kikiriki; Shoes - @malonesouliers
Daisy wears: Dress - Kiki Riki @kikiriki; Shoes - @malonesouliers
Daisy wears: Top - Miaou @miaou, Jewellery - Marcin Giebultowski @marcingiebultowski
REVIVAL VINTAGE Colourful Ladder Back 1980s Dress £34.99
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc ETSY Vintage Handmade Dress - AuntPatsys £14.67
REVIVAL VINTAGE Horrockses 1950s Vintage Day Dress £62.99
BESTDAYS Vintage Reworked Lee Denim Jacket £39.99
HONEY THE LABEL Reworked Vintage Blazer Skirt Set in Black and Gold £125.00
LUNELVINTAGE Breakfast At Tiffanys Reworked Sunglasses €89.00
DEPOP Reworked Adidas crop bralet, bikini bottom, and scrunchie Deereworked £52.00
BEYOND RETRO 1970s Sears Lurex Evening Jacket £30.00
ETSY Retro Cycling T-shirt FreeWillShirts £11.99
DEPOP Reworked Vintage Pin Cord Shirt - I Wear Green £35.00
BEYOND RETRO 1970s vintage sleeveless vest £18.00
VINTAGE TWIST PAGE 70
YOUR GUIDE TO VINTAGE SHOPPING IN LONDON This month, Cicilia suggests some of the coolest stores for vintage shopping in London.
Every self-respecting fashion lover has at least one vintage item in their closet. Suppose you are a Londoner, for sure you’ve bumped into some vintage shops or iconic flea markets such as the famous Portobello Market. London is full of exquisite shops and boutiques that sell oldstyle items of all kinds - we are not talking only about clothing. Although objects dating back to the past may seem to belong to the socalled 'vintage' category, this is not the case. Anything that is at least 20 years old is considered vintage, while objects aged at least 100 years old are antique ones. The first type of garment is easily reachable, the opposite of the latter category which is sold by more exclusive boutiques. If you are looking for iconic vintage pieces to enrich your wardrobe, be careful not to run into fake ones. We must also distinguish between vintage and retro. The latter term applies to all objects that imitate the style of a specific era or decade. However, they are not necessarily items created decades ago. If you are already a vintage lover, you'll find excellent shopping inspirations for your post-lockdown purchasing session. If you are a novice, I will give you a few good reasons to start buying from vintage stores. First of all, they sell great garments that are not produced anymore; hence, you'll stand out with truly unique pieces. You can flaunt exquisite totally vintage outfits, or mix and match old clothes with contemporary ones. Whatever the case, owning something vintage is an excellent idea to experiment with new combinations and boost your daily looks when you fancy a different outfit.
Moreover, suppose you are a conscious consumer or looking for a bargain without compromising style and quality. In that case, you should opt for vintage shopping. These places are always a good option, both for statement pieces and basic ones. If you want to buy some essential clothing, you can discover excellent quality vintage pieces that will stay with you for decades. These clothes are generally more durable, as in the past, raw materials and construction were optimal, durability won over trends. Don't despair if you cannot find clothes that fit you perfectly. Generally, vintage items are often cheaper than new ones, so you can always get them tailored.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Many fashionistas give a new life to their old-fashioned garments, reinventing them into inimitable goodies. The advantages of vintage shopping are not over, as by purchasing from these non-chain stores, you'll support the local economy. No one is saying that buying from big corporations is bad; however, shopping locally is a fantastic way to help your area, especially in difficult times. Finally, purchasing secondhand items is the greenest way to shop. Indeed, you won't contribute to the supply chain at all. No raw materials are involved when you buy vintage, and no energy is used to produce new items. If you want to renew your closet with an environmental, social and economic focus, get ready to scout some unique London-based vintage shops.
PORTOBELLO I must warn you that vintage shopping can be a proper adventure. You have to scout the stores proposed here and pull up your sleeves to rummage through baskets, shelves and clothes racks overflowing with fashion goodies of all kinds. Let's start with the super famous Portobello Market. This market exhibits the fashion section on Saturdays from 9am to 5pm. This area of London is excellent for oldfashioned purchases as it is also home to numerous vintage shops. One of the standout stores is One of a Kind London. This small shop hosts one of the richest vintage fashion
collections in London. It has a section open to everyone displaying ready-to-wear clothes and accessories from top designers such as John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, and Alexander McQueen. The collection spans from the 1930s to the early 2000s. The 'secret' area is the Archive and it is accessible only to fashion professionals and clients looking for rare pieces. Indeed, the Archive hosts vintage and antique items, some of them dating back to the 19th century. If you're still picky about buying second-hand clothes, put your doubts aside. Big names such as Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, and Sienna Miller are loyal clients. A stone's throw away from One of a Kind there's Ragyard, a cool-vibe destination for young people and everyone fancying an exquisite reworked item. Ragyard is a small family business owned by travel lovers. Exotic textiles and eyecatching designs come together in a little place with bright colours and an incredibly captivating atmosphere. Ragyard does not go unnoticed. You will see their iconic tops decorated with patches in the shape of peacock feathers from the windows. This place hosts items that have a second life. The Ragyard design team sources fabrics worldwide and reinvents unusable garments by creating unisex and sustainable pieces. The idea is to tell the story behind each piece sold. You will be greeted by a fantastic scent of incense and be fascinated by the stories the owners will tell you about their products.
MARYLEBONE & COVENT GARDEN Moving to the heart of London, precisely towards Marylebone and Soho, you can continue your fashion hunt within the walls of Reign Vintage. This shop is located in Soho and was born in 2002. The owners' ambition is to empower their customers, making them masters of their style and no longer slaves of high street trends. Reign Vintage Hidden Gems offer a wide range of designer clothes at incredible prices.
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The variety of products is immense, as the store's suppliers are based throughout Europe. Among the big names you will find are Chanel, Versace, Stone Island, Vivienne Westwood, and others. The next shop is WilliamVintage, and unlike many vintage stores, it looks like an haute couture boutique. Indeed, Mr Banks-Blaney, CEO and founder of the brand, doesn't want customers to rummage through baskets of clothes. He wants to offer an exquisite shopping experience by having the knowledgeable sales assistants serve and advise you. The collection of vintage designer pieces is rich and beautiful. Tilda Swinton, Amal Clooney, and Victoria Beckham are just some of WilliamVintage's VIP customers. Prices are extraordinarily varied and start at around ÂŁ300 as a minimum spend. Do not turn up your nose; in fact, you can scout Balmain, Dior, McQueen, and Lacroix pieces. Moving to Covent Garden, there's Rokit, and this brand has two other locations, one in Camden Market and one in Brick Lane. This store offers vintage and retro treasures divided by decade, and this division is followed also on the website. You can find pieces fashionable between the 1930s and 1990s. Let yourself be amazed by Rokit Originals Range, the collection of reworked vintage pieces for lovers of style and sustainability. Besides, everything takes a new life thanks to Rokit Recycled which transforms unusable clothes.
BRICK LANE & SPITALFIELDS Last but not least, there are Brick Lane and Spitalfields. In the second area is Atika, a conglomerate of colours and patterns that unfolds over two floors. Unlike many vintage places, here you will find models in a great selection of sizes and shades. A ten-minute walk towards Shoreditch brings you to the last two shops of this vintage guide. The first is House of Vintage, ideal for anyone looking for staple jumpers, '90s inspired sweatshirts, and bandanas. We conclude this shopping tour with Serotonin Vintage, the must-go place for women who love animal prints, leather and eco-leather items. In short, if you want to opt for a slightly flashy look, you cannot miss a trip here. Check out the store's Instagram profile and be inspired by beautiful colourful outfits. London provides endless fashion and artistic stimuli and inspirations. Although it is now impossible to go on a wild hunt for the coolest vintage piece, you can always dedicate yourself to online purchasing on shops’ websites. If you want to have an intense experience, draw up your wish-list while waiting for an excellent shopping session. Hopefully, spring will bring only good news and a nice filling of the vintage section of your closet. You can read more of Cicilia's article on ciciliabrognoli.weebly.com/
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PACKED SKIER Julia Che - the first Russian designer to create art objects from garbage since 2013. This image represents the ecological situation in Russia. Here we have not yet learned how to properly sort and dispose of plastic garbage. Garbage is everywhere. Every day new landfills grow. Nature is choking on garbage. Help! A garbage pile carries at great speed into forests and fields.
Photographer: Nurizhat Osmanova @nuriosmanova Stylist/Fashion Designer: Julia Che @juliache.fashion Model: Alim Kara @al_al_0001 Wardrobe: Headdress, dress - Julia Che; Boots - Salomon; Skis - Armada
LONDON RUNWAY
IT’S THE 90’S FOR ME
Model: Dream The Model @beautiful_dreamthemodel Wardrobe: Goodwill @goodwillsfl Photographer: Andre Donley @capturedimagesbyandre
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LONDON RUNWAY
OLIVIA’S JOURNEY A heartfelt message from Vicky DePiore, the mother of a model with Down Syndrome.
Thankfully, the hole in her heart healed up on its own with surgery. Whew, we got by that hurdle.
She was rushed to another hospital and I couldn't see her. When I walked through the lobby that night, just after having a C-section, the elderly volunteer at the front desk asked me, "Are you the mother of the Down Syndrome baby?" This made me stop in my tracks. Why did she call her that, and why did she need to know? After a little time, I told her yes. She said, "God bless you". I thought to myself, why do I need to be blessed? What does this mean?
The next 17 years would be our task of supporting her, educating her, caring for her, and educating the society in which we live in. Anything from how you look at her, how you talk with her, how you treat her, how you include her, how you celebrate her, how you tell her to not notice things that people do and say, etc. Helping her was the easy part. Helping society will be a life-long journey for us and her.
Well, I know now what it means. I was truly blessed by being selected to be this beautiful young lady's mother. Only joy and love does Olivia exude. In everything she does, she worries about others and wants to make things better and happy. Why can't we all just have a little of this perspective?
So, we've taken a pledge for that to be our calling. We will, by the end of our lives, dedicate ourselves to educating on inclusion, sometimes even forcing the situation. We felt that once she was 'there', people might understand just a little bit more and possibly spread this understanding to others where they may 'include', too..
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When we are raising our children, we seek for the understanding of what skills they have and what passions they have. As in any individual, we are all different and try to do things to accentuate our good skills. That's the same thing with Olivia. We saw her shine when a camera came close by and also saw her watch others and imitate their movements and looks. She started studying models and actors and found a skill that not many people have. When she models, you see a whole different Olivia, where she shows confidence, creativity, and a great learning. Here's her niche! Olivia can use her whole self to advocate for inclusion and showing the world that differences are OK. Remember, she's a whole lot more LIKE us than DIFFERENT than us, too. For all of us, those differences we have make us unique and Olivia reminds us of this every waking day.
LONDON RUNWAY
She started in some small, local fashion shows. The great people she's worked with recognized that passion and the need for inclusion in our world, and asked her to share her passion with others on a bigger scale. Ohio Fashion Week, Miami Fashion Week, "Greatest Growth in Modeling" Award, New York Fashion Week twice, Paris Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, and now Dubai World Fashion Week. Magazines are calling her asking for interviews. Designers are reaching out for representation. A Londonbased design magazine just requested her to be an ambassador. The word is getting out there, but we're not even close to where we need to be. To all the believers and supporters, we can't thank you enough and keep up the good work. There will be a day where we can look back and not understand why we treat people with differing abilities with exclusion. I can't wait for that day to come.
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Vivienne Monique is wearing the Rosaline Couture ball gown in two-toned blush pink and grey. It has a full princess skirt with voluminous ruffles of the softest tulle fabric which gives it a rich textured look of luxury and elegance. Adorned in hand-sewn lace, sequins, gems, feathers, and rhinestones from the latest Jewel Box Collections of premiere children fashion boutique MIELE MODA. Stefani Kolevska is wearing the Adrienne Princess dress in mint green with the elegance and luxury of high-low design in layered tulle from the Princess Palais Royal collections of the international fashion house KINGDOM BOUTIQUE. Takeisha Batchelor is wearing a grey tulle dress with hand-sewn crystals, french lace, feathers, and 3D flowers on the bodice. It also has a beautiful high-low style of a glittery tulle skirt in silver from the latest collections of international fashion designer OSTROWSKA COUTURE.
Models: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique; Takeisha Batchelor @takeisha_kiki_uk; Stefani Kolevska @missfashionweekukjuniorstefani Wardrobe: Miele Moda @miele_moda, Adrianna Ostrowska Couture, Kingdom Boutique @kingdom.boutique Photographer, hair and makeup artist, & artistry: Dani Geddes @danigeddes Proud Mums: Ninah Aguila, Christina Hedges, Renata Love
FASHION IN A CAGE The concept is a transition period through the old fashion vision and the modern one. Crinoline was a must in XIX century and now could come back in a new interpratation of minimalism and transparency, linked with simple materials uses. Photographer: Fabio Butera @fabio_butera_ph Model: Sara Barbato @sarettabarbi Makeup Artist: Marilena Lasalandra @marilena_hair_and_makeup
LONDON RUNWAY
A Regency Era Revival:
How ‘Bridgerton’ is Changing the Future of Fashion by Bringing Back the Past This issue, Maria Henry explores the sensation that is Netflix’s ‘Bridgerton’ and how it is influencing the fashion of the future, by digging up the past. A couple of months ago, a new trend began to emerge on social media. This trend involved big skirts, ballgowns, costume jewellery, pin-curled hair and dainty shoes. Yes, you guessed it – I’m talking about the ‘Bridgerton’ trend. When the television show Bridgerton (based on the novels of the same name by Julia Quinn) was released on Netflix last month, it was hit with rave reviews as audiences quickly warmed to the colourful cast of characters and Regency-era settings. The show, which focuses on the Bridgerton family, is set in the historical English city of Bath and shows the girls
as they attempt to find love, build friendships and debut into their society.
inspired trends began to sweep the internet.
The show is characterised by a blend of old traditions and modern mindsets. The maximalist aesthetic of the costumes (designed by Ellen Mirojnick) reflect this mindset well and feature beautiful pastel-colours, florals, ruffles beyond-belief, fabulously dramatic puff-sleeves and are almost always accessorised with jewels, tiaras, and feathered headdresses.
Many of these began on TikTok, for example, a trend in which people would switch from wearing regular, every day, ‘lockdown’ clothes to full ballgowns and period clothing, including lace gloves, corsets, long dresses and petticoats. As the UK had entered its third national lockdown when Bridgerton was released, the trend offered a unique way of getting out of the ‘quarantine slump’ that so many were feeling oppressed by. It gave people motivation and opportunity to get themselves all dressed up and experiment with a new (old) style.
A Romantic Revival One remarkable thing that came out of the show was the power of escapism that it held for audiences. People instantly fell in love with the world that Bridgerton offered; the balls and dances, the romances, the dinner parties and grand houses. People enjoyed the romantic idealisms of this lifestyle so much that a range of Bridgerton
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This spiralled into a further appreciation for Regency fashion, with people sharing videos of outfits inspired by characters in the show and by general 19th-century fashion trends, it even adopted the name ‘Regencycore’.
This involved things such as incorporating satin corsets into more modern aesthetics, creating periodinspired hair updos and layering dresses and skirts to create a dreamy, ball-gown-like look. Regencycore is all about escaping to another world through fashion – it is about fantasy and revival. In these current times of being trapped inside, with little to do and few opportunities to dress up, the trend offers people the chance to immerse themselves in a wonderful dream-like world. It allows them the chance to find fashion inspiration in long-gone eras and allows us to adapt these things into our modern style.
To Corset, or Not to Corset? Corsets quickly became a staple of the Bridgerton trend, with search engines such as Lyst reporting a massive spike of over 100% in the number of "corsets to buy" searched for. The regency-era staple was, for a while, seen as a negative by many, who felt like corsets were by their very nature oppressive to
the women who wore them. In period times, the corset was made to shape the woman’s figure in order to make her more appealing to male suitors and this in of itself has negative connotations as it heavily presents itself to the male gaze. Originally an undergarment made of whale-bone or steel, the corset was made to pull in the natural waistline – this often became dangerous and harmful to the women who would wear corsets every day for many hours at a time, as their ribs were being pushed into unnatural positions for hours upon hours. This could result in back pains, breathing issues and even internal organ damage. Doctors in the 19th century reported that prolonged use of them could also result in miscarriage or damage to an unborn child due to the pressure being placed around the womb. The corset disappeared from fashion’s view around the seventies, as athleisure become all the rage and body-sculpting was instead achieved through workouts and dieting trends. In recent years, much enhanced by influencers such as
the Kardashians, we have seen the corset return to the public eye, rebranded as a ‘waist-trainer’. The waist-trainer is meant to be worn for a few hours a day, instead of consistently like a corset, however, the effect is the exact same – it pushes the ribs into a certain position and over time they move into that shape permanently due to the consistent pressure, giving the appearance of the much-desired small waistline. In many ways, the original use of the corset, to give the body a certain societally desired look, is still very much alive. However, we find it now often replaced with waist-trainers, shaping underwear, plastic surgery, and cosmetic procedures. There is no longer just one way to create this look for yourself, but rather a variety of options that devote themselves to sculpting a woman’s body to meet societal expectations. The new corset, however, almost acts as a way to re-define and re-claim the original use of the corset. Women are using the corset to make themselves feel good – not to make themselves look a certain way for men. The Bridgerton trend is less about looking the way that our modern society deems ‘attractive’
but more about escaping into another era, experimenting with new and old fashion trends and combining them to make something personal and unique. The trend is not catered towards the male gaze as it has been in the past, it is rather reclaimed by the women who were previously oppressed by it.
floor-length gowns and the men dress in tailcoats, vests, wing collars, bow ties, and wear any medals of honour that they have received – playing into the traditional aspect of the culture.
“You Shall Go to the Ball!” The Bridgerton trend also took an interesting turn to reality as it spiralled into a variety of videos of people sharing real Bridgerton balls they had attended, such as the ones during Vienna’s famous ball season – a yearly event in which people can attend and partake in various themed dances in historical venues and get a taste of regency life. The season usually takes place each winter (with the exception of this year) and is usually referred to as “the fifth season”. It involves attending several traditional balls, in which participants will dress up and partake in formal dinners, traditional dances, and listen to live orchestral music in grand venues. An example of this is the Concordia Ball which takes place in the staterooms of the Vienna City Hall, and the Ball of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra which was first held in 1924 with set rules for attendance that remain to this day. The dress code is white tie, meaning that women or debutants wear their best
Whilst to many this may seem like an archaic element of a much older society, in these times of vastly changing circumstances people have found a comfort in the simple enjoyment of the ballroom fantasy. This represents how it feels to enter a grand room full of art and music, to dance with an attractive and noble stranger, to eat the finest foods and drink the finest drinks. The ballroom fantasy is the height of escapism, of trading in modern pleasures for the simpler times and grander dreams. Digging Up the Past? Now more than ever, people are in need of escapism. This is where media such as television and film offer the perfect distraction from the perils of everyday life. It is no secret that lockdown has become increasingly hard for people to deal with as the months have rolled on. With no social outlets, many young people have found themselves in positions in which they feel lonely and dissociated from the world. It is truly
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one of the strangest periods that most of us will live through and at the moment it seems somewhat endless. However, with all of this isolation has come so much creativity and hope. People have turned to creation when all else failed and this trend, this return to the past, is a prime example of how people have chosen to do this. With no set fashion rules, people have decided to wear ball gowns to eat breakfast and throw on a corset and long lace gloves to walk the dog. People have set up ballrooms in their bathtubs and banquet halls in their bedrooms, they’ve created Regency-era film masterpieces using just their phones. The Bridgerton trend is simply an example of how media can inspire so much creativity and wonder into the hearts of many and how fashion inspiration can be found in the strangest of by-gone times and places. There is always room for cultural revival, and often as our culture alters to fit different circumstances, we see the past rear its head - as it is now. If you enjoyed reading this article, you can find more of Maria’s work over on Twitter @mariawriteshere
SOMEWHERE BETWEEN LORIMER + BROADWAY Models: Hannah Rademaker at Marilyn Agency NY @hannahrademaker; Jada Monae at Marilyn Agency NY @iamjadamonae Photographer: Ashley Gallerani @AshleyGalleraniPhotography Wardrobe Stylist: Rose Mae Turner @rosiemae27
Jada wears: Boots - Dr. Martens; jacket - model’s own; patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina-Mae Hannah wears: Dress, gloves, and jacket - vintage; Upcycled chain-link bag - Fendi; Patchwork recycled fabrics mask Rosina~Mae; Boots - Dr. Martens
Jada wears: Black spaghetti strap gown - J.Crew; vintage velvet blazer - Calvin Klein; Belt - vintage; Mask - Evil Kitty; Boots - Dr. Martens.
Jada wears: Boots - Dr. Martens; jacket - model’s own; patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae Hannah wears: Dress, gloves, and jacket - vintage; Upcycled chain-link bag Fendi; Patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae; Boots - Dr. Martens
Hannah wears: Sequined bomber jacket - Vintage; Denim corset - Zara; Recycled trim neon raver mask - Rosina~Mae
Hannah wears: Dress, gloves, and jacket - vintage; Upcycled chain-link bag - Fendi; Patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae; Boots - Dr. Martens Jada wears: Pearl beaded top - vintage; Velour fringe dress - Joule; mini-skirt - American Apparel; Jacket - Model’s own. patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae
Jada wears: Black spaghetti strap gown - J.Crew; vintage velvet blazer - Calvin Klein; Belt - vintage; Mask - Evil Kitty; Boots - Dr. Martens. Hannah wears: Hand-painted slipdress - Official Rebrand, Pearl beaded top vintage; Patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae; Boots - Dr. Martens
Hannah wears: Hand-painted slipdress - Official Rebrand, Pearl beaded top vintage; Patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae; Boots - Dr. Martens Jada wears: Black spaghetti strap gown - J.Crew; vintage velvet blazer - Calvin Klein; Belt - vintage; Mask - Evil Kitty; Boots - Dr. Martens.
Hannah wears: Hand-painted slipdress - Official Rebrand, Pearl beaded top vintage; Patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae; Boots - Dr. Martens
Jada wears: Black spaghetti strap gown - J.Crew; vintage velvet blazer - Calvin Klein; Belt - vintage; Mask - Evil Kitty; Boots - Dr. Martens.
Hannah wears: Hand-painted slipdress - Official Rebrand, Pearl beaded top vintage; Patchwork recycled fabrics mask - Rosina~Mae
LONDON RUNWAY
YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE For this issue’s style horoscope, Candice brings you brands that embody the spirit of the “Old and the New”, with upcycled and recycled materials at the core of their ideals.
Aries March 21 - April 20 Gaâla uses leftover luxurious fabrics for a majority of their pieces and this Noelle Dress in a bright, classic red is no exception! The feminine silhouette, with the modern shirt collar and waist belt, and indulgent silk fabric will look stunning on any Aries.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Pineapple is one of the waste materials used in Ahimsa Collective’s luxury and sustainable products. This Peta Pouch in white leather is made of 100% cactus leather. “Peta redefines 'timeless' with simplicity and sophistication.”, which also accurately defines any Taurus.
Gemini May 22- June 21
ROOP makes all their products from remnant and vintage fabrics, this Aurora Headscarf in yellow gingham included! The playful colour accentuates the bright personalities of these bubbly, social signs.
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Cancer June 22- July 22 OhSevenDays brings you hot weather approved business chic with this Thursday Bahama Blazer. The elasticized sides gently hug the silhouette giving an added touch of femininity to the classic blazer shape, while the mid-sleeves and off-cut linen is perfect for the warmer days to come!
Leo July 23- August 21
Leos will dance around in joy in this elegant floral Brocade Jacket by Anekdot. The decorative, refined yet relaxed fit pairs well with any outfit or just indulgently lounging around in your birthday suit!
Virgo August 22- September 23 The always put together Virgo will stun in this chic Limited Edition Classic Car Coat in checkered patterning. Made with surplus fabric for a zero waste production promise, the detachable hood and deep patch pockets will suit this practical sign’s desires.
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Libra September 24- October 23 The Daisy Dress Extended in Lavender Floral by Christy Dawn perfectly complements the sensitive nature of these empathetic signs. The ruffled collars and tulip sleeves pair naturally with the feminine, sheer deadstock fabric.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 RE/DONE uses no harsh chemicals and water conserving methods, with repurposed Levi jeans at the core. These High Rise Loose jeans features a straight leg, high waist and classic 90s fit, with each pair handpicked and hand cut.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
Antiform’s Epic Culottes in Grey Geo perfectly match the easy-going nature of a Sagittarius. Hitting just below the knee, the sustainably made piece features an intricate geo fabric and a surprise, inner silk pocket lining.
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Ecoalf, a B Corp certified company, has this Murren Dress and many other gems made entirely of recycled materials ranging from used tyres to plastic bottles. Capricorns will revel in the adjustable waist, straight cut and button closure, keeping them comfortable throughout any task.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Hand embroidered and upcycled, this High Waisted Recycled White Floral Petal Embroidered Jeans adds that missing flair to any Aquarius’s ensemble. “Good design means circularity” - Fanfare
Pisces February 20 - March 20
Hôtel brings you this handmade Amour du Sud jacket made of a combination of cross stitched embroideries from the 40s. “We make clothes that carry unique stories, and all characteristics, mends and relics are memories to the original fabrics.”
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers
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STREET STYLE PHOTOSHOOT WITH AMA JONES Photographer: Pietro Recchia @Pietro_Recchia Model: Ama Jones Wardrobe: Slip midi dress - Milk & Roses; Floral, high-neck midi dress - Zara; Long line coat, black tights, and boots - model's own
FLASHBACK:
FASHION 4 AFRICA 2019 Enjoy this throwback to an event that took place a few years ago, before we had to worry about social distancing and fashion shows were plentiful! Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra
LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
Jewellery Competition
budding jewellery designer? now's your chance to shine...
About
What We Want
How it Works
We're putting together a competition for jewellery designers - whether you're an established designer, a student of design, or just a hobbyist.
We're looking for a piece of jewellery that exemplifies the London Runway ethos. We love things that are sustainable diverse equal
The competition will span over the course of two issues. First we'll take entries (that's starting right now with the 27th January). We'll close the entries on the 26th February to give us time to put together a shortlist for a public vote, and we'll have the results for the issue on the 27th March!
Even if you've never designed anything before, we'd love you to give it a try!
Interpret that as you will!
First STEP: submit Your Design You could include our logo, make it look like a magazine, or go a more abstract route. It's totally up to you! Likewise, we don't mind if it's a pair of earrings, a necklace, a bracelet, a ring, a hair clip, a tiara... you name it! So long as it would be classed as a piece of jewellery, we'd like to see it. At this stage it only needs to be a design, which you can create on paper or with the software of your choice. We will accept images of finished pieces of jewellery as well if you want to make your design come to life.
Requirements: Must be a design for a piece of jewellery only - clothing or other types of accessories will not be accepted Must be your own work and design (no copyrighted works or images) Must source anything used as an element (font, illustration, etc) Must include description and explanation of design along with submission Must be sent through our submission form below Format should be .jpg or .png, with files no larger than 2000px on the longest side
Keep in Mind: Read through the full guidelines and make sure to fulfill all the requirements. If you have a pre-existing design you think would work, please add a few tweaks to make something original for this competition Don’t hold back, and design to impress! Stay true to your own artistic flair and have fun!
YOU CAN SUBMIT VIA OUR WEBSITE HERE: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/JEWELLERY-COMPETITION PAGE 120
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Next Steps There's no need to make your jewellery a real item... unless you want to! If you're selected for the final voting round, we'll be adding images of your design to our social media pages so that people can vote by 'liking' them. This will be your chance to lobby support from friends, family, and followers, and win over your competition!
There will be more specific instructions that will be detailed in the email sent out to you personally if you're chosen. You won't need to do any extra designs or making for this stage of the competition! Depending on the number of entries we select to go through to the next round, we'll also be able to introduce categories - such as the best student design or the best professional jewellery maker. So, there's no reason to keep this to yourself - make sure that you share the details of this competition with anyone who you think may be interested!
The Prizes... and more! The winner will see their design plus an interview with themselves printed in our March issue. We'll be sharing it on all our social media pages! If you have your own range of jewellery or have been able to make your design come to life, we'll offer you a free photoshoot with our in-house team that you can use to promote and sell the design.
The winner will receive:
A FREE PRINT COPY OF THE ISSUE FEATURING THEIR WINNING DESIGN AND INTERVIEW A LONDON RUNWAY POPSOCKET AND LOGO STICKERS A FREE PHOTOSHOOT FOR THEIR DESIGN
So... what are you waiting for?! Submit your designs now for this amazing opportunity! We will be personally looking at everybody’s submissions*, so don’t be shy and show us what you’ve got!
*You are allowed to only enter the competition once. Multiple entries will be disregarded once they are either accepted through to the next round or rejected.
YOU CAN SUBMIT VIA OUR WEBSITE HERE: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/JEWELLERY-COMPETITION PAGE 121
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
What did you want to be when you grew up?
“Well I always wanted to be a pianist, which I am now actually”
&
– Merel Van-Der-Knoop, model
“AN AUTHOR, WITH NO SHADOW OF DOUBT.” - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor, author, and ghostwriter
“A dog trainer until about 9, then an actress. I'm an actress and a model now” – Alba Sanchez, actress and model
“I WANTED TO WRITE AND TAKE PHOTOS TO HELP PEOPLE AND ANIMALS AND OUR PLANET TO BRING AWARENESS AND PROTECT THEM FROM THE HARSH REALITIES OF OUR WORLD” - Runa Rothbrooke
"I wanted to be a ballerina. I always wanted to be a dancer. I know that's really cliche because everyone does, but I really loved choreographing dances and I liked being pretty but I wasn't good enough. Sadly! I’m in the same kind of line of work though" - Ellie Gill, actress and model
“An entomologist that studies tropical butterflies. And that's what I do now” - Susan Finkbeiner, scientist, professor, and model
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
NEXT: THE LFW ISSUE THE OLD AND NEW ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
IMAGE BY FIL MAZZARINO, BACKSTAGE AT PAM HOGG SS20