London Runway Issue 59 - The LFW Issue

FEMININITY VS RACE + GENDER IN FASHION . PIERRE CARDIN . BURBERRY . MEXICO TRAVEL . QUEEN + SLIM

GAYEON LEE . MARK FAST . BETHANY WILLIAMS . EDELINE LEE . VIVIENNE WESTWOOD . PAUL COSTELLOE

ISSUE 59 27TH FEBRUARY 2021

THE LFW ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Katie Abson, Lydia Petropoulou, Jessica Carvalho, Coraly Langué Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Lana Berkas, Diana Oliiuyk, Nataliya Bugyachuk, Julia Vasilovskaya, Dyelog PR, Yuhan Wang, Anya, Daria Serenkova, Hayley Van Der Westen, Myron Macapagal, Nicoleta Melnic, LanaSvet, Pandas Elat Boutique, CC Beauty Studio, Kanadel, Sik Saleem, Bianca Figliomeni, Edwin Tam, Cory Morrow, Karen Lall, IA London, Bora Aksu, Vivienne Monique, Ram Eagle Photoworks, Ninah Aguila, Korn Taylor, Anna Bocharenko, Alesya Fenychko, Burberry, Mark Fast, Bethany Williams, Edeline Lee, Jamie Wei Huang, Megan Kelly Thorn, Brumet(te) Special thanks to Tighe-Mearns-Smith

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Advertising department Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

Face of London Runway 2020 ambassadors are Hannah Lewis and Orpheus Sloma

PAGE 1

CONTENTS

43 VISUALS

72 WORDS

Mimicry (Editorial)

14

The London Fashion Week Lowdown

4

Yuhan Wang, Jenn Lee

26

New Faces

The Rise of Femininity in Men's Fashion

25

35

Portfolio Piece (Cover Feature)

43

Pierre Cardin

32

Drive All Night (Editorial)

45

Fashion House Histories: Burberry 57

IA London, Bora Aksu

51

Gayeon Lee, Tighe-Mearns-Smith

60

Fashion's Inaccurate Depictions of 70 Femininity and What That Means as a Black Woman

Style (Conscious) Guide: Jewels Head to Toe

69

Yucutan - 365 Days of Summer

82

Your Style Horoscope

112

Empress Regnant by Vivienne Monique (Editorial)

72

Colour Your Life (Editorial)

78

Burberry, Mark Fast, Bethany Williams, Simone Rocha, Vivienne Westwood, Edeline Lee, Jamie Wei Huang

87

Paul Costelloe, Bmuet(te)

116

Fashion and Styling in Waithe and 123 Matsoukas' Queen and Slim The Big Question

126

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l A

new LFW dawns upon us – and while it might not shine quite as brightly, with the flash of a thousand cameras, as it did in the before-times, at least the light shines around the world.

Yes, another fully virtual London Fashion Week has been and gone, and now we’re trying to sort through and decipher what can be learned from it.

Not only was there the BFC’s on schedule event, but also smaller showcases – Fashion Scout lead the way as they always do, but we also saw more independent shows from the likes of Lone Design Club, Silk Road Fashion Show, and Hundred Showroom.

If I am biased in mentioning Silk Road Fashion Show, you’ll have to forgive me. I was one of the jury members deciding on the winners for five design

prizes, so you can learn more about that in our next issue!

We’ve got a full breakdown of the LFW on-schedule shows as well, so those of you who were too lazy/busy/bored/ stressed out about the world to watch them yourself need not panic. We can even let you know which ones are worth a watch and which aren’t, so you don’t have to take too much time out from whatever you’re currently bingewatching to catch up!

All has not been quiet in the world of London Runway, either. We’ve been busy cooking up our London Runway 2020 Anthology, featuring all of the work from the previous year in one coffee table volume. You’ll be able to grab that on Amazon soon – and with this being our second volume, you’ll soon be able to start building up an enviable collection of editorial

inspiration for years to come!

We’ve got a raft of new events coming for you throughout 2021, so don’t imagine for a moment that LFW will be the last of your fashion excitement for a while. We’re going to keep you on your toes, and you’ll want to be involved – some of the things we have planned will be really special!

In this issue, we’re introducing some new members of our writing team, so look out for articles about gender in fashion and how it’s been done wrong or right, as well as a retrospective on the life of Pierre Cardin and a visual trip to Mexico. Plus, we have some gorgeous editorials alongside highlights from some of the great shows that did take place this LFW – some in runway form, and others done as lookbooks.

Enjoy!

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

THE LONDON FASHION WEEK LOWDOWN Rhiannon D’Averc brings you all the details on another lockdown LFW – with a brief review of every on-schedule show! Tune in next issue for breakdowns of Fashion Scout and other off-schedule shows!

FRIDAY LONDON FASHION WEEK OFFICIAL OPENING WITH KAI-ISAIAH JAMAL

We love the use of a trans person of colour to open the whole proceedings – what a powerful statement of acceptance! That said, it’s tough to wrangle spoken word poetry into something that feels fitting for Fashion Week, and we’ve not really seen an example yet that fully works despite continued reliance on this format during virtual shows.

The first collection of the season and the first genderless one too. An unfortunate focus on trippy visuals and audio rather than on visual quality, showing off the actual clothes, and having a wider range of looks. Designers – please show us your clothes, or why are we here…?

SABIRAH BY DEBORAH LATOUCHE IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

The effect is striking. Nevertheless, we once again struggle to make out the details on black clothes, on a black background, shot at low quality, with a single spotlight only hitting part of the model’s body.

Which is a shame, because what we can see of the clothes looks stunning.

This one’s actually quite interesting. A printer shoots out images of the models against a bright yellow backdrop. Again, could have done with zooming in on some of the looks, but they have a subversive and anarchistic feel which we appreciate very much.

DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY

PARNELL MOONEY IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

Don’t be fooled by the title – this video clip actually gives a lot of insight into the designers and their inspiration, not just the hair. It feels like half the video is just logos, though.

If you’re keeping count, this is gender neutral collection number two.

It’s also organic and recycled. The video features quotes from Williams over footage of the collection, which gives you more insight (though slightly less entertainment value than some other video forms).

MY WARDROBE HQ X BELSTAFF PANEL

LINUS LEONARDSSON IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

BETHANY WILLIAMS CAPSULE COAT COLLECTION, EXCLUSIVELY AT SELFRIDGES

The first panel discussion of the season, on sustainability in menswear. Chaired by Jane Shepherdson CBE, with Dylan Jones OBE, James Norton, Misan Harriman, and Wilson Oryema. The discussion is a bit scattered, taking in the history of sustainability, Black Lives Matter and Black creativity, and other topics based on the panellists’ interests.

Some things never change, and Paul Costelloe’s choice of location and style is reassuringly stable. See later in the issue for the full catwalk imagery from the bright and fun collection featured in this video, combining traditional runway with behind the scenes elements.

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PAUL COSTELLOE

LONDON RUNWAY

BORA AKSU AW21 CATWALK SHOW

Musical performance accompanies this museum-based catwalk, giving us a great look at the clothes from velvet boot to slicked-down and braided hair. A beautifully romantic collection in shades of soft pink and green through to bolder shades and patterns. This editor would wear almost every piece. Half-skirts over jackets is a new look we’re embracing.

We climb a red-carpeted staircase past models in various layered shades of beige, with blunt-fringed wigs covering their faces. Sounds a bit like a Yeezy presentation, but it’s not – so we’re told. One for fans of dance. Otherwise, you can skip on after the staircase.

TOKYO FASHION AWARD - IHNN

A beautiful tangerine colour still can’t quite pick out these dresses from the rolling sea behind them, though the reflection of the orange setting sun is a nice touch.

Mostly we’re looking at a bank of television screens for the whole video, which is a bit strange and has definitely been done before many, many times. You don’t need to watch this.

TOKYO FASHION AWARD REQUAL

≡

FLORIZEL - EDWARD CRUTCHLEY WINTER 2021

Here we go – a fashion film that has a story and actually showcases the clothes well in perfect lighting! Hallelujah! It can be done! The woodland setting is also perfectly appropriate for the raggedy, cosy style of the layered clothes. Think Snowpiercer: practical hand-medowns but make it fashion.

This is a 61-second film. Clothes do not appear in it as anything more than a snippet. One for the art students with Tate Modern aspirations.

MARK FAST - WINTER OCEAN DIVE

TOKYO FASHION AWARD - SHOOP

A model steps out of a blue door wearing a brilliantly purple coat and carries an item across to decorate the other side of the room. The next model brings something else. If this had just been lit properly to showcase the clothes, it would have been the most genius thing we saw all week.

More discussion here from the designer about the collection’s inspiration, layered over images of the clothes being made and then worn by models. Johnstons of Elgin fans will be interested to learn about their collaboration, and sustainability fans will want to hear about how their ensure their certifications. They also namecheck their suppliers, which is pretty cool.

OLUBIYI THOMAS AW21 FUTURE HIGHLANDER

TOKYO FASHION AWARD MEANSWHILE

Actual fashion – rejoice! A kaleidoscope of looks makes it fairly difficult to concentrate on the actual clothes at first, but it turns out they get repeated afterwards. Then there’s a model sat on a chair getting dressed and a rapid progression through more looks, the theme of which seems to be “lots of items tied together”.

Now we head into the world of animation. This presentation starts feeling more like a film, and it’s a good while before we can really get a look at the clothes. The central character seems to go on an out-ofbody experience into the matrix, which is at least a bit more interesting than some of the other films shown over the course of the week.

TOKYO FASHION AWARD - YUKI HASHIMOTO

TOKYO FASHION AWARD - FUMIE TANAKA

EFTYCHIA - AW21 LIFE BEFORE BIRTH

A catwalk that feels very much an evolutionary follow-on to last season’s neon strips – they’re still present in the window behind the runway. Logo placement and 80s stylings also persist. The brightest clothes are, perhaps predictably, the most exciting.

PAGE 5

LONDON RUNWAY Leave it to Matty Bovan to provide some colour and sparkle. The glitchy, flashing video reveals oversized sequins, clashing patterns and colours, ripped seams, and smeared face paint – all the typical Bovan stuff.

VINTI ANDREWS AUTUMN WINTER 2021

This is a haunting film that does also show of the clothes pretty well.

Oversized silhouettes take flannels and sweatshirts and pair them with much more sophisticated garments and shapes to create a collection of punkish contrasts.

This collection, inspired by Swedish commutes, might not be expected to land with a London audience. Nonetheless, the clothes are stylish and chic, ideal for that long-awaited (or dreaded) return to the office. Stick around after the film for the inspiration from the designer.

SAUL NASH AW21: TWIST

TOD'S & CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA FASHION PRESENT LEGACY

This is a slick photoshoot-set video which pays clear homage to musical icons. The clothes are luscious and luxurious, like gems fit for a rock star.

The Audition gives us the story of a group of aspiring actors, all, of course, dressed in the collection. This gives us storyline but also plenty of close-ups on the shoes, which definitely works as a format.

LABRUM LONDON PRESENT AW21 "ST GILES BLACKBIRD"

BMUET(TE) 2021 AUTUMN WINTER DIGITAL PRESENTATION

Something different – a karate champion wears the collection of relaxed, seventies-inspired looks while showing us his moves. A bit of a novelty, at any rate.

It’s a bit difficult to assess a whole collection of 35 different designers and contributors as one piece, but we don’t need to – it turns out this is just a trailer. You’ve got to click on the link within the video and head to the website for more.

TEMPERLEY LONDON AW21 DIGITAL FILM

ROKER AW21

Not quite sure what’s going on in this one, but we think it’s a message about respecting the planet. Anyway, the studio part of the video gives us a chance to take a very close look at some of the clothes, which is excellent.

A carousel is the setting for this dreamy presentation, as well as a tea party where stately young ladies read illustrated classic novels.

Another appearance of tartan mixed in with romantic gowns here – do we spy a trend forming?

NICHOLAS DALEY SPRING SUMMER 21 STEPPING RAZOR

TIGER OF SWEDEN FALL WINTER 2021 LIFE

The urban setting and the idea of a fight seem to lend themselves to the clothes: loose, oversized streetwear. But this isn’t what you’ll expect. Stick around for the twist, as everything blooms into fantastic colour.

We go behind the scenes in the making of a shoe collection here, with quite an interesting insight into the work that goes into making footwear. You won’t be able to look away.

LYPH: A STATE OF ALTERED EGO

MATTY BOVAN AW2021 'ODYSSEY' FILM + NEW IMAGERY

CHURCH’S PRESENTS "THE AUDITION"

We get a little historical context first, then a musical performance which segues into a catwalk. It’s quite like being there in person at a fashion show of old, just much higher quality. An enjoyable respite in the middle of the chaos. We love how the band grows bit by bit as the ‘models’ turn out to be musicians.

PAGE 6

SATURDAY A seasonless collection for this debut! The kaleidoscope effect (again) makes it challenging to really take in the clothes and how they actually look. It’s a shame.

THE BACKWARD VENDOR IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

It’s hard not to feel jaded already even by day two. Look, another arty film that doesn’t show the clothes sufficiently! While the quality is good, that’s no use if the full outfit is cropped out of the frame. It eventually all comes around, but it feels like it takes a long time to get there.

If you watched the other hair presentation, then you know exactly what to expect. This time, the designers behind N. Palmer and The Backward Vendour.

RAY CHU CHAPTER II - CENTIPEDE LOVE

SONIA CARRASCO: FALL WINTER 2021/22 - #SCAVETHEARTS

Natural dyes and sustainable materials lend themselves well to Hayhow’s vision of basing each garment on a type of mushroom.

Very much a big sister to the previous season’s collection.

A cast of diverse models (both in race and age) present floral patterns, knitwear, lace, and frills in this very short film (only 52 seconds long).

STEPHEN JONES MILLINERY, AUTUMN WINTER 2021 COLLECTION, 'FRENCH KISS'

THE HOURGLASS - IA LONDON WOMEN'S FALL 2021

Gayeon Lee’s collection is presented in a gallery later in this issue. The video is a simple presentation set to music as the models pose and dance with translucent or solid shapes and bags. A dreamy minute and a half.

This presentation is all about the struggle faced by those working in the arts at this time. It features a dancer in front of sculptures in various locations, wearing the collection. It feels frantic and anxious throughout.

EIRINN HAYHOW MAGIC MUSHROOMS A/W 21

PALMER//HARDING 2021 "I LOVE YOU" COLLECTION LAUNCH

Out of glowing yellow dust comes a gang of male models dressed in beige and black streetwear, all puffed up and lengthened and shortened and sewn together. Expect utilitarian done to the point that it’s no longer utilisable.

A one-woman show about mental health and the effect of Covid-19, so it says; we’d call it a one-woman catwalk, then an art piece. If you already know and like IA London, you’ll know exactly what to expect here.

GAYEON LEE AUTUMN/WINTER 2021

DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY

A fashion film that starts with a murder is definitely a little different!

The styling is lush in this one and the clothes get their hero moments as well. If you’re not a fan of creepy crawlies, maybe look away after the two-minute mark. That’s when it gets both creepy and surreal!

This collection is literally romantic, themed around the idea of falling in love. The clothes are given centre stage here, with lots of trailing straps and exaggerated proportions. The standout has to be a black leather folded jacket.

MAXXIJ AW21 COLLECTION

N PALMER IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

YUHAN WANG

Stephen Jones himself presents the video from his headquarters, taking you inside the studio. Self-confessed kitsch results from an exploration of French hats; the video provides moodboards, sketches, and the hats themselves from the collection.

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LONDON RUNWAY

HILL AND FRIENDS HAPPY BAG AND THE GANG GO TO FASHION WEEK

Hill and Friends have established themselves as strong storytellers for Fashion Week, and this season’s animation is no different. The bags are shown walking up and down a catwalk in high heels, which is quite strange but nonetheless entertaining. We do sort of wish we’d seen the real bags, though.

This video triggered my motion sickness. (That’s a true story). It’s very short, though, and we only get the briefest of looks at the clothes.

LUPE GAJARDO PRET A PORTER 2021.1

A genderless and zero-waste collection introduced in a strange way: the designer apologising for the video’s failure. This seems like a scripted tactic. It’s quite amusing.

At first I thought someone was walking by in the hallway, but it was just the audio. I’d watched quite a few videos in a row by this point, I think it’s fair to point out. There’s a lot of dancing, most of which doesn’t really show us the clothes very well. Eventually, more of a catwalk element which allows us to really take the collection in. At about 9:55 we see all the looks gathered together.

AHLUWALIA AW21 "TRACES"

16ARLINGTON AW21 COLLECTION

QASIMI AUTUMN WINTER 2021

In Ahluwalia’s own description, the film celebrates the past while the collection looks to the future. It’s short but gives a good look at the collection, which features interesting cut-up and graphic styling.

This is, on the surface, a collection of models spinning around in a circle to show you the whole look. But by the simple act of cutting up, mixing, speeding or slowing down some parts of the frame, this becomes so much more interesting. Worth a look at how a designer can create something cool and different without having a huge budget.

The models walk a simple catwalk through a small space in huge layers of – you guessed it – brightly coloured tulle. Tartan makes another appearance (you’re probably reaching for your online shopping outlet of choice by now). Male models also appear in skirts (kilts?) and it’s all very civilised and 80s. The later part of the collection contains some surprises into more structured and tailored garments.

LIAM HODGES CAPSULE 001: THIN ICE

MOLLY GODDARD AW21 SHOW

A clear sense of identity has never been lacking from Art School.

Same models, same ripped-up black clothing, same drama and stompy boots. If anything, it’s less entertaining than last season simply because the setting isn’t as intriguing.

ART SCHOOL AW21 ASCENSION

SUNDAY MASHA POPOVA IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

The low-quality, retro-style video includes a lot of snippets of insects, angry-looking models, and close-ups of things that very much aren’t clothes. It does also allow a good look at the clothes themselves from time to time, which turn out to be patchwork ragged-edge creations inspired by the insects we see. It’s impossible to read the credits.

This film promises the female gaze through a queer lens, which is an inviting proposal. It’s a fairly straightforward presentation of the clothes, however, with an admittedly soft touch. The clothes are deceptively simple, loosely structured with a kind of lazy elegance.

PAGE 8

CARLOTA BARRERA IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

LONDON RUNWAY

DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY

Now, Carlota Barrera explains the collection you just saw. Also, some details about the hair.

Marques’Almeida collaborated with a young rapper on this film. We actually quite like the format, with multiple videos playing on a screen over a backdrop of the website. Then there’s some rapping, and we see a collection of urban-inspired tones and shapes couple with the more couture aesthetic of the brand.

BIANCA SAUNDERS AW21 "SUPERIMPOSED"

From that, to this. A surrealist arthouse film with some interesting clothes, too. It’s all in black and white, though, which is appropriate to the genre but not the fashion.

The vibes are very much retro in this one, and there’s a slight sense of watching one of those news footage/contributions from the family true crime documentaries on Netflix. But, it doesn’t really go anywhere.

JAMIE WEI HUANG 2021 AUTUMN WINTER COLLECTION < DETOUR >

M'A X NENNY

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI FW2021 CAMPAIGN FILM, ‘UNHINGED’.

Images of lush and dramatic landscapes are interspersed with dramatic shots of a dancer, actor, musicians, and models in the clothes. As far as these films go, this one’s actually quite enjoyable, and the bright tones of the clothes are pleasing too. Like gems scattered across the rocky shore. I didn’t even get angry about the bucket hats (long-term readers may recall that I despise them).

MONDAY This is a bit of a weird one: models walking backwards (as in, they were walking normally and the film has been played backwards) through an industrial-looking office space, often out of focus. The garments are ripped and put back together, sometimes pinned or structured with rope or just draped. Is anyone else getting bored of the DIY vibe now?

DANIEL CRABTREE IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

This is a very anxious, rapid film. The stop-motion effect makes it seem to tremble, a feeling that remains even when it slows down for brief pauses. The model and the collection give us ‘Edwardian schoolboy living in an attic’ vibes.

DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY

You know the drill by now, yes?

EMBRYO BY PRONOUNCE | FW21

MILES GEORGE DANIEL STUDIO IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

Pottery patterns are painted on the models’ skins – and on their clothes. The overall vibe is a blend of the traditional with the punk.

Lots of bare skin in this one.

We start off in a lovely darkroom, then a gorgeous stately home.

There’s a sense almost of decay, of glitch, of retro technologies combined with this very modern style of presentation. There are even Fight Club-esque subliminal frames. The gem-encrusted and changeable collection also intrigues, with a lot of very nice, clean designs and historic references.

PAGE 9

MITHRIDATE AUTOMATISTE DIGITAL ARTWORK

LONDON RUNWAY

OSMAN YOUSEFZADA "I'M COMING'

A dreamy video that embraces the weird, in the theme of joining together different parts of the former colonies to embrace sustainability. Later there’s spoken word over dance. It goes on just slightly too long.

This black collection is presented against shocking magenta walls, and we want to go live in that building now. Simple but effective drama.

Later looks incorporate red, pale grey, purple, blue, gold and nude, with a lot of midriff—or-thigh-baring cuts.

JORDANLUCA AUTUMN WINTER 2021

We’re in a storage locker. Textural urban knitwear and utilitarian jumpsuits bring us a cast of nurses, security guards, and androgynous models who give the impression that you oughtn’t mess with them.

There’s something ominous about the gloves.

Here we get to chat not only to the designer, but also to the models (artists) he’s chosen. Interviews about inclusivity, masculinity, and positivity allow us to think while we admire the clothes.

HILLIER BARTLEY PRESENTS THE NEXT STAGE IN THEIR ICONIC PAPERCLIP EVOLUTION

ROKSANDA AUTUMN WINTER 2021

This 39-minute presentation launches a new initiative in sustainable fashion. There’s a lot of dry talking, a short film, and then a panel discussion; personally, I suggest you just read the blurb posted under the video.

A model walks slowly through the woods and finds pieces of clothing and jewellery to put on. Rather than a cumulative experience, it’s one or two items per outfit, after which we switch to a new almostcomplete look for more of the same. We’re in a forest, but there are shells everywhere.

E D E L I N E L E E AUTUMN WINTER 2021

XANDER ZHOU AW21 COLLECTION ‘UPDATE’

Okay, now this is a video that allows us to see the clothes fully, gives us a sense of going behind the scenes, AND smashes it out of the park in terms of blurring the gender lines. Office wear, coats, varsity jackets – and skirts. Leave it to Burberry to show us how the professionals do it. Silk scarves as trench belts? Excuse us, we’re off to raid our wardrobes.

Age is no barrier in this film, featuring three generations of the same family (the Redgraves/Richardsons). Shakespeare’s Sonnet 73 provides the soundtrack.

FASHION VALUES LAUNCH

KAUSHIK VELENDRA X THE POWER OF FASHION AND ITS INFLUENCE ACROSS OUR SELF-EMPOWERMENT

This clip is 19 seconds long. It took me longer to write this sentence than to watch it.

Digitally enhanced and real models wear this collection, with text about the looks incorporated into the video as well as diagrams.

The menswear is somewhat forgettable (oversized outerwear, broad-shouldered suits) but the presentation style catches the eye.

BURBERRY AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 MENSWEAR PRESENTATION

EMILIA WICKSTEAD AW21

PER GÖTESSON - AW21 - PIECE BY PIECE

Under the video presentation, there are gifs and images of the collection. Which is handy, because the video is a short story rather than a fashion film. It’s worth a watch!

PAGE 10

LONDON RUNWAY

Dramatic organ music accompanies models striding through a church in this dark video. It’s an irreverent collection that takes in unlucky symbols, graffiti, anarchism, mini sheep, and a floral lace bridal gown.

Expect also some Bridgerton-esque corsets and wigs, plus genderbusting styling.

NATASHA ZINKO X DUOLTD: SOBER CHAPTER 3 ~ THE FINAL CHAPTER

TUESDAY Spoken word, text on the screen, very dark and wobbly filming – by the end we were kind of still waiting for the fashion. It’s hard to know what clothes look like when you only see them in shadow, tinted light, and blurred.

TOLU COKER IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

Historical context lends itself to this political presentation. Expect 60s and 70s styling, dancing, music, and a slick collection interspersed with old photographs. The oversized hats are everything.

I’m not even going to tell you, you already know. By the way, this context makes the Marie Lueder show more interesting in retrospect.

APUJAN AW21 "IN DREAMS, WE INVESTIGATE"

DUNHILL COMPENDIUM AUTUMN WINTER 2021

There’s quite a thesis attached to this one. It’s a virtual presentation of garments rendered in 3D, and you may just find yourself focusing more on that than the actual clothing. One by one, the figures drop and then some of them move a bit and it’s all very prototype.

Photography lovers may enjoy this video which covers the creation of the collection images in wet collodion, developed during the film.

AV VATTEV AW21

DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY

This is a pretty exciting premise: a security guard looks up from his (apparently very funny) comic book to see that all of his monitors are filled with prone women. He calls an investigator in a digital city to come and check it out; it’s all very futuristic. Then, finally, the fashion starts at just under the four-minute mark, with our characters immersed in the show itself. Undoubtedly the coolest video of the season.

It’s hard to follow the best presentation of the season, but dunhill’s slideshow doesn’t try particularly. It’s an altogether different film to the ones we’ve seen already: a series of images of the collection presented almost as magazine layout, with text prefacing and throughout to explain the inspiration. Then we go on a kind of gallery exploration through the different looks.

ACCIDENTAL CUTTING PRESENTS “KONSUM AW 21/22- APOCALYPSE THE NEW REALITY II”

LUEDER IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

SUSAN FANG AW21

This one’s a bit surreal, but it does show the clothes quite nicely against a handsome blue room. Another place we’d like to inhabit.

The 70s vibes are strong in the collection.

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LONDON RUNWAY

This 360 rolling view of a set brings many surprises with it. Models under running water, with their heads in clouds, and a lush satin fabric adorned with embroidery. It’s quite a fun way of constantly making you look at what’s going on without sacrificing visibility of the clothes.

COMPLETEDWORKS AW21

For a jewellery presentation, it’s quite hard to make out the details on the, well, jewellery. Maybe a grainy retro effect wasn’t the best choice.

Well over one half of this video contains no clothing. When it does, we don’t get to see an awful lot of it.

JENN LEE 21FW/ LOVE PLANET/ VR360

MISA HARADA AUTUMN/WINTER ’21 WONDERLAND

Someone needs to tell these models they’re on fire! It’s really quite distracting, but at least it makes you pay attention. Once you get used to it, there’s quite an interesting collection underneath the digital trickery.

Oversized, romantic… leather jackets and coats? Yes! We’re here for it! How did we not know that was what was missing from this season? All of the structural, tough-pretty garments are stand-out pieces from this season. What a treat for the final day.

GEO AW21 - SIMULACRA

PUBLISHED BY AW21

This is weirdly dramatic, as models are brought into the scene on wires (but, like, really obvious wires; we all know what’s happening).

They look really miserable about it, too. Anyway, it gives you a good full look at the clothes, which we appreciate.

Alice in Wonderland always feels a bit like a degree collection concept. Thankfully, there are no literal interpretations of top hats with playing cards attached. Still, the collection is quite small with only a bit of originality.

TOKYO JAMES AW21 - OGIDI OKUNRIN

INGRID KRAFTCHENKO IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY

This is pretty fun – you can look all around this 360-degree virtual reality space and watch the performer you want to watch, examine the clothes that interest you. Our favourite is the guy with the phones. He really gets into it.

Strangely sculptural bags that don’t look as though they have much in the way of practical application. Not sure how you’d get your keys in that big thin one.

MARRKNULL FALL 2021

DANSHAN COLLECTION SENTIENCE

SIMONE ROCHA AW21 SHOW

The voiceover may be somewhat interesting, but we’d like to see some clothes, please. It’s all a lot of nothing, by the end.

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LONDON RUNWAY The first ever bridal collection from RIXO contains a lot of classic references. Not-so-classic model choices, however, are quite encouraging.

ISOSCELES LINGERIE AW21

There’s a found-footage feel to this film, which is at times frustrating when you just want to look at the collection properly. Something about it just feels a bit cheap and mundane, which we can get any time on any social media of our choice, really.

It certainly feels as though you were better off watching this live than the filmed version, but once it gets going there’s a great interview section with winning designer Priya Ahluwalia.

MTV ANNOUNCE THE WINNER OF THE ‘MUSIC MEETS FASHION’ COMPETITION

VANISH PRESENTS THE REWEAR EDIT

Caroline Rush leads a discussion about climate targets and the programme trying to make sure the fashion industry hits them.

This link will take you to Instagram for Daniel w. Fletcher’s own feed, where we’ll see a look at the making of the imagery for his debut (and long-awaited) womenswear collection. Superfans will like the video, but for others, you’re already on Instagram – you may as well just look at the campaign images.

ERDEM AUTUMN WINTER 2021 SHOW

THE QUEEN ELIZABETH II AWARD FOR BRITISH DESIGN

Lucy Saunders is the winning designer from this competition, and you’ll also see a musical performance from another MTV competition’s finalist. The collection is gender neutral, size inclusive, and sustainable. There’s also an interview with the designer herself.

Sustainability fans (as we know you are) will enjoy this one. It’s a film about a photoshoot in which they took the amount of clothing which is thrown away within five minutes in the UK, and used it to make a photoshoot entirely with waste clothing.

THE CIRCULAR FASHION ECOSYSTEM PROJECT, A CONVERSATION

RIXO BRIDAL

DANIEL W. FLETCHER AW21 WOMENSWEAR

Models step into and out of a single spotlight in a dark room. Which is fine, but we really need more than a single moment of illumination to take these clothes in, especially given that they often share the space with another look. What we can see looks like an interesting and elegant collection, too.

Goomheo, HRH, Jawara Alleyne, Nensi Dojaka, and Maximillian are the brands featured in this Fashion East behind the scenes look. It’s a bit hectic, and you might want to go elsewhere for more on any of the brands that you enjoy. There is a nice catwalk section on some of them, however, which does give a good look at the clothes.

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FASHION EAST AW21

mimicry

Photography - Lena Berkas @lenaberkas Wardrobe Stylist/Model: Diana Oliinyk @moondi_stylist Models: Nataliya Bugaychuk @nataliya_bugaychuk, Julia Vasilkovskaya @mua.model

Models wear: Coats & Trousers - MARIOLLI; Sweaters - TOUCH WOOL UA; Shoes: ALL SAINTS

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THE RISE OF FEMININITY IN MEN’S FASHION Katie Abson explores the rise of feminine clothing and accessories in men’s fashion.

The world is ever-changing. Gender norms are dwindling. The rise of femininity in men’s fashion is exploding across our screens, accepted by many as an act of empowerment. British-Somali author Diriye Osman said that donning a feminine look made him feel “sensual, beautiful, powerful,” and isn’t that what anyone longs to feel? Over recent years, we’ve seen an influx of men adorning the ‘femboy’ look, incorporating pieces such as dangly earrings, nose rings, eyeliner, lace shirts, chains, and ruffles as staple pieces of their wardrobe.

Content makers on TikTok and Instagram are pushing the boundaries of what is perceived as predominantly masculine or feminine fashion. Men dressing in maid outfits, in particular, is spreading like wildfire across TikTok, with users such as @tristanpvaldez and @chxsley contributing to the #maidoutfit trend that has altogether received a whopping 340.4M views, with figures rising each day. It’s just one way in which men are experimenting with feminine and non-gendered beauty and fashion. Similar videos receive millions of views per day, and whether viewers like or dislike this content, the world is interested.

Curiosity sparks change. And isn’t that what we use fashion for in the first place; to challenge and express and inspire? Men are rebelling against gender-conforming behaviour for the world to see. And Generation Z is watching.

“It’s all been done before,” you say?

There’s no doubt that what goes around comes around in fashion; we’ve seen the rise and fall of the flared trouser, ruffled shirt, and leather jacket, full circling from ‘70s culture to the current market.

History is full of men who embraced clothing and accessories typically worn by the opposite sex.

Influential cultural figures such as David Bowie, Boy George, and Steve Strange straddled this dichotomy for decades. They brought the Glam Rock and New Romantic movement to the forefront of culture, testing boundaries never before seen in mainstream media. But that isn’t to say these famous figures were the first. Men have been sporting flowing hemlines for aeons, from Greek togas to skirts worn as part of the Roman army uniform, worn to allow freedom of movement.

Another worthy mention is Freddie Mercury and his legendary impact on fashion. Queen’s captivating music populated the charts across the world in the ‘70s and ‘80s, making them one of the most renowned rock bands of all time.

Alongside their music, Freddie’s sequin jumpsuits and eye-catching patterned leggings paired with lavish neon jackets have influenced contemporary fashion for decades.

His style was ever transforming, influenced by New York’s gay club scene, his surroundings, and former girlfriend Mary Austin.

Freddie incorporated women’s clothing, accessories, and makeup as part of his stage costumes, contributing to his legacy of becoming one of the most memorable performers of the ‘80s.

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Freddie’s expressive clothing paved the way for many present-day artists to explore more flamboyant and outgoing styles on-stage as well as off-stage.

This, in turn, continues to influence fans and followers who look up to celebrity style, revolutionising the way men dress in the modern day.

Feminine menswear is often associated with gay culture, but that isn’t to say it is limited to sexual orientation. Just like some women’s choice to wear trouser suits instead of skirts, some men ultimately feel more comfortable incorporating feminine items as part of their outfits. But despite history’s impact, when searching for feminine menswear to buy online, little materialises. Separate pieces, such as silk, lace, and floral-patterned shirts can be found on progressive websites such as ASOS. Retro and vintage pieces can also be found on Depop, with sellers specifically marketing their clothes towards buyers interested in androgynous attire. But unfortunately, it’s still a very limited market, despite evidence of there being thousands of men wishing to express these alternative fashion tastes online. Men often have to search through the women’s section to find what they’re looking for. I imagine this can feel extremely frustrating, as we all look for inspiration and guidance in fashion

LONDON RUNWAY from our favourite stores. Currently, there is no such place for these men.

Unfortunately, social and cultural opinions still seep into our everyday decisions: what we wear, how we act, what we say. Many still think it inappropriate to exhibit attributes associated with the opposite sex. It is still a societal belief that men who dress feminine are rejecting or going against what it typically means to be a man. This can often lead to men being subjected to ridicule, and in some cases, physical abuse.

As society continues to grow in acceptance, moving forward as we learn the importance of educating one another, it is clear that gender is more multi-faced than what was accepted many years ago. In recent years we have come to understand gender as a social construct; biology does not have to define our lifestyle.

It comes down to what makes us happy, and what makes us feel most

like ourselves; something that is more difficult than we realise.

Designers who challenge outdated societal opinions can inspire people to think differently. It is a relief to see more non-gendered specific clothing cropping up in the fashion industry.

A designer who challenges gendered-clothing boundaries is JW Anderson, demonstrated in his 2020 Spring Menswear Collection. A knitted dress embellished with tassels, paired with classic loafers is just one example of his gender-fluid clothing range. His clothing transcends social norms as he creates styles to be worn by anyone, regardless of their gender. JW Anderson’s designs push barriers and provides a safe space for men to find inspiration and recognition of their preferred fashion tastes, created by a credited designer.

However, his clothes retail for prices much higher than the average person

can afford. Retailers should now focus on the transferability of these designs from the catwalk to the hight-street, making them accessible and affordable for men across the globe.

But there is hope. Harry Styles, Billy Porter, and Ezra Miller are just a few examples of cultural figures in mainstream media who can inspire brands to incorporate alternative pieces into their lines and diminish that all too wide gap in the market. We still have a long way to go in terms of acceptance and accessibility, but fashion continues to challenge and inspire curiosity by transcending social norms, and will continue to do so as long as the world is willing to listen.

If you enjoyed this article you can follow more of Katie’s work on Twitter via @katieawriter.

All pictures via Pexels

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YUHAN WANG Images via Yuhan Wang

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JENN LEE

Images via Dyelog PR

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PIERRE CARDIN: BEYOND AN ERA This week, Lydia Petropoulou makes a retrospective on the life of Pierre Cardin, one of the most popular and innovative designers of his era.

It often seems that previous historical periods, characterised by intense social and political revolutions, were the source of inspiration for many people to achieve great things. The renowned fashion designer Pierre Cardin, who passed away on the 29th of December 2020, was not an exception. With his innovative and creative ideas, as well as his entrepreneurship, he managed to set himself apart from other designers.

Pierre Cardin was born in July 1922 in San Biagio di Callata, near Venice, from a relatively poor family. Soon after his birth, his family moved to France, where he spent most of his life as an adult. Regarding his studies, his father wanted him to become an architect, but the young Pierre had already started showing inclinations towards fashion and clothing. It seemed that the limited economic resources of his family did not prevent him from pursuing his own goals and dreams. At the age of 17, he became an apprentice of a tailor in Vichy, France, where he acquired his first knowledge about women’s suits and soon, he specialised in designing them himself.

Via Wikicommons

Using his wide knowledge of architecture, construction and tailoring, he proved to be a great cutter, fitter and tailor. Such was Dior’s satisfaction from Cardin’s work that he gave him the right to lead the house after his death in 1957.

WRAITH From Film to the New Look

Being successful at designing the In 1950, Cardin created his own brand costumes and the masks for Jean and his name started to become Cocteau’s legendary film‘Beauty and the reputable among the fashion industry.

Beast’ in Paris, 1947, was only a first step In 1954, he introduced the popular into a fascinating trajectory in the world ‘bubble dress’ and ‘bubbleskirt', which of fashion. From 1946 to 1949, he were based on the designer’s values of worked for the house of Dior, designing geometry, kinesis, minimalism and the ‘New Look’ of women’s clothes. This sculpture. At the end of the ‘50s, Cardin breakthrough campaign aimed at made the first ready-to-wear collection Photography Rhiannon D'Averc questioning the-wartime’s trends in for women, something that did not clothing and the female body. During enjoy large acceptance in the beginning, Hair and Makeup: Sidrah Sardar the Second World War, austerity and of course. On the contrary, it was a traditional loose-fit shapes dominated decision which led to his expulsion Wardrobe: with bershka, Selfridge, Mango, the clothing Suyeon industry.Choi Cardin wanted to Missfrom the Chambre Syndicale de La Reclaimed Vintage, and PrettyLittleThing promote more flexibility and femininity Haute Couture, the French trade for females’ clothing, as, during the war, association which admitted or rejected Model: Olivia Jameson they were assigned typically masculine houses and designers depending on roles. their compliance with specific rules and codes.

Olivia wears: Red Ruffle Sleeve Dress - £59.99, Mango

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The ‘60s was definitely the decade in which Cardin’s career reached its heyday. He became the wardrobe designer of ‘The Avengers’ for 30 episodes and he was very prolific in the costume designing. The social, political and cultural changes that were happening in the UK and the US worked as a source of inspiration for Cardin and he seemed very devoted to associating them with the revolution in clothing.

His agile mind realised early enough that after the war, there was an emerging middle class that was ready to embrace a new clothing trend that was in between couture and ready-to-wear items.

The main premise behind this assumption was the effort of rebuilding a fractured society and democratise fashion through inclusion. It was obvious that Cardin had realised that a change was happening in the society.

Human progress was dominant, people were fighting for their civil rights,

and the middle-class was there to stay.

Therefore, a societal movement should also be accompanied by a movement in fashion. Cardin’s designs attempted to combine the values of the traditional aristocracy and its opulence with a futuristic model.

1968 heat moulded dress via Wikimedia Commons

From West to East During the ‘60s, Cardin developed extended business relationships with.

Asia. It was a place with different values and clothing mentality from the West.

Maybe it was exactly this fact that inspired the designer to visit China and Japan and finally adopt a style which combined eastern and western aesthetics. In 1961 he became professor at the Bunka Fashion College and slightly afterwards he met the model Hiroko Matsumoto, who became his muse, after he persuaded her to follow him to Paris. At the same time, Cardin was very busy working on menswear.

After opening ‘Adam', the first men’s shop in Paris in 1957, he presented the first men’s collection in 1960 in a fashion show comprised only of students. In 1966, Reuters reported that this turning point in menswear proved a hugely lucrative business for the designer, as the profit turned out to be six times bigger than in womenswear.

In the late ‘60s, he was really fascinated by the efforts of astronauts to understand the extra-terrestrial world and he supported this movement in his own way, which, was, of course, to design clothes. A year before Neil Armstrong set foot on the moon, Cardin had predicted what the appropriate garment of a spaceman would be. In 1968, he launched his ‘Space Age’ collection which mainly included plastic, vinyl, glossy and leather material cut into geometric shapes and an avant-garde design. He was the only civilian ever who tried the space robe himself. Because of his close friendship with Aristoteles Onassis, the Greek shipowner, he also designed the costumes for the air hostesses of Olympic Air, following the same style as in the Space Age collection.

Claude Iverné Elnour, via Wikimedia Commons

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The King of Licenses The ‘70s and ‘80s found the designer’s brand expanding even more worldwide, with his name featuring on products from mineral water to pens, furniture and handkerchiefs. Cardin himself had many times admitted, when interviewed, that he was open to many types of businesses and that he would do whatever he might be asked, provided it was innovative and creative.

During these two decades, the designer established a global brand name with 800 licensing deals in more than 100 countries and it was at this time that many fashion magazines finally adopted the ready-to-wear trend introduced in 1963. Despite the designer’s success in establishing himself in the market, the brand’s ubiquity resulted in the gradual decrease of its desirability. Many

retailers claimed that the designer’s name was nearly everywhere, something that brought either a gradual mistrust in the authenticity of the products or the consumers buying the products only for the sake of the brand name.

licenses to China and in 2011, he attempted to sell the whole fashion label, but without any success. Two years before his death, his fortune was estimated at 600 million Euros by Forbes.

Cardin did not seem to be annoyed by this fact, at least in the beginning, because, apart from being a skilled designer, he was also a dedicated businessman who wanted to expand his fame worldwide and make the most out of his abilities. This attitude is quite reasonable if we consider the huge turnover for the designer, and nobody would have thought of behaving differently in the peak of their career.

However, when the sales started to decrease, Cardin decided to sell many of his licenses to investors. In 2009, he sold part of his textile and accessories

The death of the big designer in 2020 left the fashion world with a sense of bitterness, but also with a great point of reference for a modern and futuristic approach to fashion. Cardin taught us that great businesses are formed with consistency, action, initiative and creativity. We are currently facing difficult times, which affect all the aspects of entrepreneurship, but this designer is a clear example that when things get tough, the toughest win.

Via Wikicommons

Harry Pot / Anefo, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

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ANYA Name: Anya Age: 42 Location: Saint-Petersburg, Russia Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

I was a model for the first time.

Where are you from originally?

From Saint-Petersburg.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I'm a bit of a witch.

What would surprise people to know about you?

That I can predict the future.

What are your modelling ambitions?

My dream is to work with Zuhair Murad.

Model: Anna @annaromaniukina Photographer/Retoucher: Daria Sverenkova @daria.sverenkova

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HAYLEY Name: Hayley van der Westen Age: 21 Location: Calgary Agency: @noblesmgmt How long have you been modelling for?

For 5 months Where are you from originally?

Originally from Calgary Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can open a bottle of corona with my teeth.

What would surprise people to know about you?

Something surprising might be that I practiced jujitsu when I was a teenager!

What are your modelling ambitions?

My ambition is to be able to model all over the world, be in big magazines, be able to make a difference in the environment and to meet amazing people!

Model: Hayley Van Der Westen at thenoblesmgmt @hayleyvanderwesten Photographer: Myron Macapagal @myronmacapagal

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NICOLETA Name: Melnic Nicoleta Age: 10 years old Location: Republic of Moldova, Chisinau Agency: Luxury Style Moldova How long have you been modelling for?

I attend the modelling school, starting since 2017. I hold the following titles: SUPER MODEL MOLDOVA 2018, TOP MODEL MOLDOVA 2019, SUPER MODEL MOLDOVA 2020, VICE-TOP MODEL 2020.

Where are you from originally?

I am from Republic of Moldova Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I like dancing and painting. I attend the dance school Black&White Dance Centre.

What would surprise people to know about you?

I am an energetic and ambitious person, with a special charisma.

What are your modelling ambitions?

I would like to make beautiful projects in the field of modelling in the future.

Model: Nicoleta Melnic @Nicoletamelnic1 Photographer: LanaSvet @lana_svet_photo Makeup Artist: CC Beauty Studio @Cc__beauty_studio Fashion Designer: Pandas Elat Boutique @Pandas_elat_boutique

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KANADEL @soundscapenet

I am a watercolor painter living in Japan and working in Italy.

I want to express the emotional feelings that people can resonate with, which remain in my memory.

I am continuing my creative activities, hoping that the world of art and fashion will be reconstructed using watercolors and that it will reach the depths of the viewer's heart.

portfolio piece

N i g l l ht A e v i r D Model/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Bianca Figliomeni @biancafigliomeni Photographer: Edwin Tam @etam_images Model: Cory Morrow @corymorrow Videographer: Sik Saleem @sik_saleem Vehicles: Karan Lall @karan.lall, Vikram Lall @astro_r35

Bianca wears: JJs House; Cory wears: Saville Row Gold

Bianca wears: Fashion Nova

Bianca wears: Fashion Nova

Bianca wears: Fashion Nova; Cory wears: Saville Row Gold

Bianca wears: Fashion Nova; Cory wears: Saville Row Gold

IA LONDON Images via IA London

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Bora Aksu Images via Bora Aksu

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FASHION HOUSE HISTORIES - BURBERRY This month Cicilia Brognoli explores the history of one of the most iconic luxurybrands ever - Burberry.

Traditionally associated with trendy trench coats lined with a check pattern, Burberry was born as a visionary textile design brand and inventor of the gabardine. Through ups and downs, via famous films and association with rioters, this powerful fashion house has always been talked about.

THE FOUNDER Thomas Burberry was born in Surrey in 1835. His passion for fashion started at an early age, and he was apprenticed to a local draper's shop. At 21 years old, he opened his business, and everyday outfits inspired his collections.

However, he was an innovator by heart and started experimenting with materials. He was a lover of the great outdoors, so he focused on clothes suitable for fishing and hunting. He wasn't satisfied by the range of waterproof clothing of the time. He partnered with British cotton manufacturers aiming to produce a weather proof textile appealing to the constantly growing middle class.

THE INVENTION OF GABARDINE - the 1890s Probably a few people know one of the greatest inventions of this brand, gabardine. Thanks to his knowledge in textile design and his perseverance in experimenting, Thomas Burberry stood out as one of the most revolutionary minds in fashion. Gabardine is indeed the first waterproof fabric ever created, then patented in 1888. This textile is still used for the iconic Burberry trenches and is a perfect alternative to rubber materials.

The versatility of this fabric caught the attention of several explorers and aviators. The aeronaut Claude Grahame-White chose Burberry's invention for the suit worn during the record-breaking flight between London and Manchester. Also, Dr Fridtjof Nansen picked gabardine for the outfits selected for his arctic pole exploration.

The RAF Officer Edward Maitland wore a Burberry gabardine suit during his hot air balloon flight from Crystal Palace to Russia. In no time at all, this innovative fabric conquered everyone, starting from the bravest explorers to the ladies of the London upperclass.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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Photography by Fil Mazzarino

PRORSUM - LOGO CREATION In 1901, Thomas Burberry desired to have a good logo fully expressing its founder's vision and ambitions. The brand ran a contest asking participants to design a logo, and the winning one took inspiration from two of the many armours displayed in London at the Wallace Collection. Indeed, it features an equestrian knight and the motto "Prorsum", a Latin word meaning ‘forwards’.There's nothing better than this statement to define an innovative brand like Burberry

THE BIRTH OF THE TRENCH - 1900s The Burberry trench is, for sure, an iconic piece of fashion history. Not everyone knows that it is not a modern invention. This specific coat dates back to 1912and is still positively trending.

The first jacket by Thomas Burberry was the tielocken coat, closing with just one strap and a buckle and featuring a single button on the collar. Overall, the 1910s were a very hectic decade for Burberry. The brand moved to larger London premises situated in Haymarket and designed by the well-known architect Walter Cave. A few years later, during the first WorldWar, Burberry pioneered the trench coat. Despite being now one of the most craved fashionable items, trendiness was the least sought feature back then.

Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca

Thanks to its functionality and resistance, the British Army chose this as the official uniform, and a few changes made it perfect for armed forces activities.For example, epaulettes suspended military equipment like gloves, grenades hanging on D-rings, and gun flaps provided additional protection allowing water to slip off the outwear.

Nowadays, the plaid pattern is the most prized element in a Burberry item.However, this stylish detail was introduced by the brand only in the 1920s as alining for the iconic trench.

The knight logo and black, red, and camel pattern, called Nova check, distinguishes iconic Burberry outerwear from any other similar beige ones. Thanks to its success, it immediately became a registered trademark. The introduction of this decorative motif aimed at enriching this garment's design, hence, functionality and aesthetic started blurring.

Marlene Dietrich in A Foreign Affair

The Nova print craze immediately spiked, and it was promptly applied to umbrellas and cashmere scarves. Burberry managed to sell all its new checked items in a blink of an eye.

HARD TIMES - EARLY 2000s

Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s

FROM BATTLEFIELD TO MOVIE SCREENS - the 1950s Until the 1940s, the trench coat was not so popular. It was considered a garment suitable for outdoor activities and soldiers. Nevertheless, its appearance on the silver screen in the 1950s made its way into many people's fashion wish list.Stars like Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, and Humphrey Bogart wore it in movie scenes. The check pattern made this Burberry garment easily identifiable.The trench appeared in the films Casablanca and Breakfast at Tiffany's and paved its way into fashion history, becoming popular ever since.

If today a Burberry item is the musthave for all fashion lovers, this brand experienced a terrible drop in sales in the mid-1990s. Things got worse when, in2002, the British soap opera performer Daniella Westbrook flaunted a total Nova checked outfit while running some errands with her daughter. The child looked like a mini Burberry doll seating in a Nova printed stroller. The very class-conscious British media immediately spread the pictures throwing a shade of tackiness on this iconic label. High-end stores even stopped selling Burberry items.

However, worldwide sales soared, and British vending made up just 15% of 2004’s trading. During the mid-2000s, his fashion

house experienced a complete change in the target market. Wealthy people lost their interest in the brand, but the checked pattern entirely enchanted UK and European soccer fans and the working class. Hooligans started wearing Burberry's scarves, and due to their association with violent acts, many pubs around the UK started banning people wearing this plaid item.

It is incredible how exciting facts are hidden behind many fashion houses' history, often mistakenly associated only with glitz and VIP's romantic-chic whims. In the next article of this mini-series on Burberry, you will discover how two of the most talented contemporary fashion designers have brought Burberry back into vogue. We will find out how this British brand has made its way as a visionary in customer service and experience design. Pick up our next issue(March 27th) to read on!

You can read more of Cicilia's articles on https://ciciliabrognoli.weebly.com/

PARISIAN BURBERRY CRAZE - the 1960s After the films' triumph showing Burberry coats, the British brand rode the wave bringing its trench to the pinnacle of success. The weatherproof features ofBurberry's gabardine earned the brand a royal warrant by HM Queen Elizabeth II.In 1965, one in five exported jackets from the UK was a Burberry trench coat.

Today, we can find anything covered in the stylish Nova pattern. This print started being applied to other garments than trench coats after a Burberry craze exploded in Paris. In fact, in 1967, a Parisian store manager decided to give a touch of colour to the total-beige shop window showcasing trenches. He turned one of the coats inside out, therefore showing the plaid motif.

Image via Pixabay

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GAYEON LEE Images via Dyelog PR

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TIGHEMEARNSSMITH If you're viewing this in our print copy, head to londonrunway.co.uk/issue-59 to watch the animated fashion film.

Read the Tighe-Mearns-Smith collection manifesto at https://www.tighe-mearns-smith.co.uk/the-twelve-heads-of-cerberus

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SARVIN Lace and velvet sweetheart neckline midi dress £24.99

STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE

AGGI Blouse Amber Perle Noir 740.00 zł

ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc

MOTHER OF PEARL Charlene Black Cardigan £395.00

COMPLETEDWORKS Gold Vermeil, Pearl and Ceramic Earrings £295.00 NUDIST Emerald green slip on top €80.00

LUXTRA Vegan Jewellery Box-Burgundy £65.00

BODEN British Belt Brown £40.00

ERDEM Crystalembellished grained-leather belt £365.00

CRAFT LONDON Toggle Milan Bracelet (Gold) £39.99

BODEN Caldey British Tweed Blazer Soft Green Windowpane £230.00

COMPLETEDWORKS Deflated ("Do Not inflate") - Gold Vermeil Ring £195.00

BROTHERS WE STAND Organic Oxford Logo Shirt £80.00

WOLF AND BADGER Rose Halo Lapel Pin Gold £59.00

MOTHER OF PEARL Jewell Trousers £275.00

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FASHION’S INACCURATE DEPICTIONS OF FEMININITY & WHAT THAT MEANS AS A BLACK WOMAN As Fashion Week returns, Jessica Carvalho explores how fashion portrays femininity, and what that could mean for those who do not fit the mould.

I was only nine when I first wished to be prettier. A somewhat innocent wish at first glance, but there was a serious undertone to it. I began to wish I was pretty like the girls the media presented to me at the time - tall, thin, and usually white. Even at such a young age, I had linked Eurocentric beauty standards to be what one should aspire to look like and believed the women in my mother’s magazines were all the epitome of grace and femininity.

This impression only intensified as I got older and was now able to get magazines and gained access to fashion websites and blogs. The media only really showcased femininity in lighter skin; the few dark-skinned models at the time were often styled and photographed in settings that made them appear tougher and manly.

Combining that with the trials and tribulations of puberty, I started to lose the sense of what femininity in a black woman could be or even look like, since it felt like every industry had a personal agenda to label us as the angry, masculine counterpart to the gentle woman.

Though nowadays one may argue that femininity often correlates with our own self-image and confidence (and I do agree to an extent), fashion is so ingrained into our lives that its impact simply can’t be ignored. Its main trick is that it can serve as a non-verbal form of description. Therefore, could the misinterpretations and stereotypes of black people in the fashion world only be a reflection of what is truly thought of us?

The assumption that black women are not feminine is a dangerous theory which has been embedded in society for centuries. It’s believed that due to the perils that come with being black never mind a woman - we’re expected to ditch lace for labour, to be unshaking, and above all, to be strong; all of these which contribute to destructive and diminishing stereotypes. Despite this, there is evidence that black women are far more inclined to dress femininely and value having a feminine aura in comparison to white women (according to research by Pew Research Center).

Black women now feel that they have to be more in touch with their softer, delicate side to avoid being pinned as the temperamental woman that often falls subject to such stereotypes.

Fashion has been a dictator of femininity for years on end. Providing the perfect vessel for self-expression, it can conversely be one that inhibits aesthetic authenticity altogether; for decades, women have been indoctrinated to be the most gentle, nurturing, and submissive version of themselves throughout life and remain unseen until it is required to avoid distraction. It’s no secret that whilst change is happening, Eurocentric beauty standards remain the most desirable and the ideal feminine appearance consists of pale skin, long hair and a narrow waist. These are characteristics found in almost all fashion models, and the industry isn’t afraid to force these into existence in their absence.

Whitewashing isn’t a new concept in fashion magazines and advertisements by any means, but it’s still pretty startling when it does occur.

One example is a magazine infamously editing Beyoncé Knowles’ skin to a

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lighter shade in a L’Oreal advertisement.

The incident has an added sting to it when it’s put into perspective that Beyoncé is known to celebrate all the features which make her an African American woman, and yet the standard of beauty and femininity is so deeply ingrained into our society that someone would go as far as editing her features to be more widely ‘acceptable’.

The reason behind the traditional, inaccurate depictions of femininity in fashion goes beyond just beauty standards. In essence, femininity originates from a binary gender

system that birthed the term as a direct antonym to masculinity, and therefore anybody who doesn’t fit the feminine mould is immediately pinned as the very opposite. Whilst the effect this may have on black women is obvious, it transcends just being hurt; we’re taught to forgive and forget to avoid being ‘angry black woman’.If we do show any remotely negative response to things like this, we’re immediately reprimanded and told to forgive and forget to avoid being -It’s a neverending cycle.

However, a break is in sight. Over the last few decades, humanity has come to realise that binarity can’t apply to beings so beautifully complex and unique and is better off as just computer jargon. Our gender identity and expression are better off being visualised across a spectrum in which neither end is superior to the other, and one where there’s more than just two correct answers. With femininity also lying on the spectrum, one characteristic (or lack thereof) can’t trump the other, leaving no room for anyone to feel left out or less than.

The fashion industry is quickly using this spectrum to its advantage and becoming more progressive and inclusive. For example, gender-bending and androgynous fashion has been more sought after than ever before as binarity in such an innovate industry becomes senseless. Names such as Prada and Alexander McQueen are known for their co-ed runway shows which simply choose the garments that fit the model best, regardless of gender or appearance.

The fast progression made by the fashion industry in terms of blurring the line between traditional gender norms is impressive to watch in real-time and is a sign of hope that change is occurring. Men are incorporating skirts and make-up into their outfits without taking away from their masculinity, and women are making power suits key elements of their wardrobe while still being the most feminine, alluring versions of themselves. These are all changes I wish I could go back and tell myself at nine, fourteen, and even a few months ago.The way you look or the features you have will never take away from who you are as a person, and you will never be unattractive just because you don’t fit into outdated standards.

That’s a message I can only hope will be spread perpetually; that being different - in whatever sense of the word - will never equate to being less than, and if my words can impact another nineyear-old black girl who feels unsure of herself, then I will continue to write them until my pen runs dry.

You can find more of Jessica’s work on her blog’s Instagram page @wots_jpg.

EMPRESS REGNANT BY VIVIENNE MONIQUE Empress Regnant is a design feature of Korn Taylor based on the Chinese folklore "The Ballad of Mulan".

The Empress dress is designed by International Fashion Designer, Korn Taylor who is based in Milan, Italy. It is made of woven thick-satin fabric in burgundy adorned with Swarovski crystals fit for the queen. Vivienne Monique will be vying for a Jr PreTeen title of Miss Pure UK International in Liverpool this year.

Model: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique Fashion Designers: Korn Taylor @korntaylor; Costume By Disney @disneystoreUK HMUA: Ninah Aguila @ninyaguila Photo: Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle

COLOUR YOUR LIFE Model: Anna Bocharenko @gloom_mily

Wardrobe Stylist/Creative Director/Makeup Artist/Photographer: ALesya Fenychko @alesya_fenychko Wardrobe: Blue long sleeve shirt dress - New Look; other - stylist's own

LONDON RUNWAY

YUCATAN: 365 DAYS OF SUMMER

Article and images by Fil Mazzarino

The Yucatan Peninsula is located in south-eastern Mexico. The lowest average temperatures between 14C to 21C and the highest temperatures between 29C to 35C make it the ideal target for travellers looking for a warm climate at any time of the year.

We start our journey in Cancun. The city is on the Caribbean Sea and is one of Mexico's easternmost points. It is a significant tourist destination in Mexico.

The Yucatán Peninsula was the heart of the Mayan Civilization. The Mayan empire also once extended into Guatemala, Honduras, and Chiapas.

We decided to place our operational base for this trip in Valladolid in the centre of the Yucatan Peninsula. Here, you can embrace the tradition and the food of the Mexican culture.

From here, within a distance of a two hour drive, you can easily reach all Mayan archaeological sites throughout the peninsula - including Chichen Itza, Coba, Tulum, and Uxmal.

Our first visit was Chichen Itza.

It was a large pre-Columbian city built by the Mayan people, located in Tinúm Municipality.

Chichen Itza was one of the largest cities of the Mayan culture and it is thought that it was one of the mythical great cities, or Tollans, referred to in Mesoamerican literature. There are a wide variety of architectural styles here, perhaps because it also had the most diverse population at the time.

The area of the archaeological site is massive, and you can easily spend a whole day visiting it. This place is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The following day, we headed for Tulum.

Tulum is a pre-Columbian Mayan walled city which served as a major port for Coba, one of the last cities that was built and lived in during this cultural era.

There are three major structures of interest at the Tulum archaeological site.

They are El Castillo, the Temple of the Frescoes, and the Temple of the Descending God.

El Castillo (The Castle) The Castillo was built on top of a previous building. The lintels in the

upper rooms have serpent motifs carved into them. The construction of the Castillo appears to have taken place in stages, judging by the visible architecture. A small shrine was probably used as a beacon for incoming canoes. This shrine marks a break in the barrier reef that is opposite the site, and this is matched to a cove and landing beach in a break in the sea cliffs. It all adds up to create a spot that would have been perfect for trading canoes coming in. This characteristic of the site may be one of the reasons the Mayans founded the city of Tulum exactly here, and it did indeed become a major port over time.

After a day spent on the site, we decided to take a little refreshment on the closest Cenote.

The Yucatan Peninsula is not only filled with archaeological sites, but it is also a land of uncontaminated nature and wildlife.

And when the day goes to the end, you can enjoy some local food with the company of few new friends.

A cenote is a natural pit, or sinkhole, create when the collapse of limestone bedrock exposes groundwater. They were often used for water supplies during ancient times, and also occasionally for sacrificial offerings.

Next up was Ekʼ Balam, a Yucatec-Maya archaeological site in Temozón. This was once the seat of a Mayan kingdom.

One of the most exciting sights here is the preservation of the plaster on the tomb of Ukit Kan Lek Tokʼ, a king buried in the side of the largest pyramid.

Images via Burberry

BURBERRY

Images via Mark Fast

MARK FAST

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BETHANY WILLIAMS

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SIMONE ROCHA

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Images via Vivienne Westwood

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Edeline Lee Images via Edeline Lee

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JAMIE WEI HUANG Images via Jamie Wei Huang

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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE If you missed the LFW shows, Candice highlights some A/W 2021 collections that perfectly accentuate the styles and personalities of these signs.

Aries March 21 - April 20 For this fiery sign, Jamie Wei Huang’s collection, “Detour”, perfectly matches. “A singular mind circling in it’s own thoughts, failures, and satisfaction.” From the tartan trousers to the oversized cardigans, her trendsetting designs always make a statement.

Taurus April 21 - May 21 “IT'S A SEASON TO BE BOLD, BRAVE AND OPTIMISTIC" - Paul Costelloe Embodying Paul Costelloe’s quote won’t be hard for these fashion-forward signs. His A/W 21 collection features outerwear and eveningwear in bold prints and colours of yellow ochre and midnight blue in his signature silhouettes.

Gemini May 22- June 21 Eye-popping colours and tulle galore, Molly Goddard’s A/W21, once again, doesn’t disappoint. Representing the varied natures of a family dynamic, the pieces range from fair-isle knit sweaters to flouncy, playful dresses. Geminis will shine in any of the pieces from this collection.

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Cancer

June 22- July 22 Classic, timeless pieces that a Cancer will look effortlessly stylish in can be found in Hanna Fiedler’s A/W21 collection.

Leo July 23- August 21 Luxurious, eye-catching and stunning describes both 16Arlington’s A/W21 collection and Leos. Lockdowns won’t stop these two fashion powerhouses from donning eye-catching evening dresses, full-length brocade coats and bright orange ostrich feathers.

Virgo August 22- September 23 Gayeon Lee’s A/W21 collection is both playful yet sophisticated, just like the Virgo. Gayon Lee’s designs present an inviting and fresh point of view, modernising the free spirit for the girl who cherishes the intersection of art and fashion. Featuring puff sleeves and playful silhouettes.

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Libra September 24- October 23 Bora Aksu’s A/W 21 collection was inspired by the French Revolution and fueled by the optimism of postlockdown normalcy. Pieces that featured his signature feminine style of frills and layered organza were matched with a more masculine, militant aesthetic, perfect for these romantic Libras.

Scorpio October 24- November 22 “The designer’s artistic vision focuses on experimental craftsmanship of design with futuristic and soulful aesthetic.” MAXXIJ’s A/W21 collection, "Future Blood”, suits no other sign better than Scorpios.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 “SAVE THE ARTS #SCavethearts” - Sonia CarrascoSonia Carrasco tries to highlight the struggling arts industry during these times of COVID and never-ending lockdowns. These adventure-loving signs will relate to the intense desire to go out and the resulting pain due the inability to do so, as expressed through this collection.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Functionality and simplicity: Tiger of Sweden’s A/W 21 collection. With the new creative director, Brian Conway, at the forefront, his observations of the city of Stockholm influenced every piece. The cocooning coats and waterproof boots will perfectly weather-proof a Capricorn from any autumn or chills to come.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Bethany Williams’s A/W21 genderneutral capsule coat collection is exclusively sold at Selfridges. These bespoke coats are made from organic, recycled vintage blankets sourced throughout the UK. An Aquarius will love the quirkiness of every unique piece.

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Eirinn Hayhow’s A/W21 collection, Magic Mushrooms, perfectly encapsulates the whimsical and “magical” nature of Pisceans. “Mushrooms, unlike other plants and animals, are a completely unique species. A Magical Kingdom.” All the dyes were made from foraged berries or vegetable and food wastes.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Photo Credits: Respective Instagrams and Websites of Designers/Brands

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PAUL COSTELLOE Photography by Megan Kelly Thorn

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BMUET(TE) Images via Bmuet(te)

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FASHION AND STYLING IN WAITHE AND MATSOUKAS’ QUEEN AND SLIM (2019) Looking at Lena Waithe and Melina Matsoukas’ ‘Queen and Slim’ (2019), Coraly Langué dives deep into how styling can bridge the gaps of a diaspora.

Released in November of 2019, Queen and Slim is a love story. The film is the lovechild of acclaimed screenwriter, Lena Waithe, and the Grammy Award-winning director, Melina Matsoukas. Together, Matsoukas and Waithe weave the fluorescent tapestry of a runaway couple, and gift their audience with a visually arresting portrayal of the significance of Black bodies in America.

and the officer is shot dead; our story begins.

Matsoukas and Waithe excel in creating a piece of work that offers a poignant and all-too-relevant commentary on race relations in the US, as well as highlighting the inconsistencies of a biased justice system and the effects this has on an entire demographic’s lived experience. But the compelling reality of Queen and Slim transgresses borders; the narrative at play speaks

Queen and Slim is a story about complicity, both in a literal and broader sense. We meet our protagonists in an Ohio diner, at the crux of a failing Tinder date. Queen, a criminal defence attorney, with scathing honesty reveals to Slim that the only reason she reached out was to avoid spending the night alone after a disappointing result on her case. The tone of the relationship is set. As Slim drives Queen home (and tries his luck in suggesting a nightcap to no avail), the two are pulled over by a police officer. The altercation turns sour

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to an experience of race that is familiar to Black people across the world. Together, the power duo have created an undoubtedly brilliant piece of work, but what makes it resonate so much with Black audiences across the world? Race politics aside, much can be said of the set design and impeccably intelligent styling.

Enter Shiona Turini.

Shiona Turini is the brilliant costume designer and stylist behind such hit shows as HBO’s Insecure as well as music videos such as SZA’s Weekend, Solange’s Cranes in the Sky and Don’t Touch My Hair

LONDON RUNWAY and Beyoncé’s iconic Formation. But even with such heavyweight projects under her belt, however, Queen and Slimmarks Turini’s first venture into the world of film.

Turini leaves nothing to chance - her decisions are deliberate. While the nature of the film poses limitations in the variety of the characters’ wardrobes, this perhaps makes the costume designer’s choices all the more striking. For Turini, Queen and Slim is a piece of protest art both in its message and execution, and as such she made it her mission to source and credit Black designers and creatives throughout the process of building these characters’ wardrobes. As she puts it: “It was about supporting that culture and community to parallel the environment that they step into.”

If the second half of the film displays a noticeable shift in colour and pace, the protagonists’ looks must follow suit. Queen makes a hurried switch from an all-white (albeit bloodstained) Max Mara ensemble into an Adam Selman animal print minidress and a pair of calf length Brother Vellies snakeskin boots. Brother Vellies is a luxury and artisanal brand founded in 2013

by Aurora James, with the mission of preserving traditional African craftsmanship across the continent.

Then comes Slim’s deep velvet burgundy tracksuit. Commissioned specifically for the character, this

tracksuit underwent Tmany camera tests to find the perfect shade of plum red. Turini has previously stated the importance of finding a shade that would sit beautifully against actor Daniel Kaluuya’s skin.

The inspiration for the tracksuit came from the character of Uncle Earl, and his own extensive collection of luxury tracksuits. As the titular characters are forced to hurriedly dress themselves from Earl’s wardrobe and those of the women that he keeps, the scene highlights the shedding of a first skin and the adoption of another. Suddenly, Queen and Slim have to abandon carefully crafted personas.

For Slim, Turini states the choice of a tracksuit “reflects his own need for comfort, namely from the people and places he surrounds himself with”. But the level of luxury that the tracksuit set evokes also speaks of a dream-like quality, a set desire of the stylist to also create and incite beauty in the clothes she puts in front of the camera.

Building Uncle Earl’s wardrobe also presented Turini with the opportunity to collaborate with some notorious characters from the hip hop fashion scene, such as Dapper Dan and Sean John (known to some of us as Diddy).

Dapper Dan is perhaps better known as the iconic tailor who created the reworked luxury-inspired pieces and tracksuits popularised by rappers of the ‘80s and ‘90s. Turini says “Uncle Earl’s character was supposed to feel like a dude from back in the day… When he was at the height of the game, he probably had original Dapper Dan tracksuits, which is why we wanted to do that collaboration” The striking colour of Uncle Earl’s house is perhaps rendered more noticeable by the passive, suburban hue of secondary character Shepherd’s home. Set in a predominantly White, middle class area, the nature of the scene and, subsequently, the wardrobes highlight a sharp contrast with Uncle Earl’s distinctive New Orleans home.

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Amidst a sea of inoffensive blues and pastels, Queen and Slim are a sharp burst of colour at the Shepherds’ dinner table. Once again, Turini successfully recreates emotion through her styling, as Queen and Slim perfectly embody a feeling of awkwardness, of not belonging.

Turini’s work relies on the authenticity of both her message and her practice.

In building the various looks for these characters, she is acutely aware of their significance in creating screen presence and the impact that they can have, both on the credibility of the characters but also on the performance. Turini had to create a wardrobe that felt in part intentional, accidental and credible. But it is also important for us to remember the role of beauty in Queen and Slim, the importance of aesthetic. Turini said, “I'll never forget that Carine [Roitfield] said one day, 'Clothing is supposed to make us dream’… So I’ve always tried to work in the costume designing space creating things that people aren’t going to forget”.

Perhaps this is where the familiarity of the styling stems from. While undoubtedly beautiful, Turini has created a body of work that is also arresting for its authenticity.

Each of the looks presented to us are rooted in representations of Blackness, culture, and Black culture that have existed – and flourished – before. For non-American Black folx, we grew up with images of Black America indoctrinated into our systems as dominant forms of representation in media. They are our cousins. So, while the experience isn’t identical, there is a lot of cultural overlap. The importance placed on Blackness as culture, and on the crediting of the variety of Black creatives that played a role in producing the film, serves as validation for an experience that transgresses borders. In fact, when discussing the ambivalence surrounding the casting of two Black British actors for the titular roles, Waithe said, “when you get pulled over, a cop is not going to be less likely to shoot you because you have a British accent”.

Together, Waithe, Matsoukas, and Turini have provided us with a much needed instance of solidarity and complicity that overrides the UScentric nature of the film. When watching Queen and Slim for the first time, in a darkened cinema room in the middle of Paris, the portrayals I

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saw on screen felt incredibly American but overwhelmingly Black. These were characters that existed in my early childhood, as signifiers of culture, and later in my adolescence and early adulthood, as hashtagged names that stood as the weak epitaphs of another cousin slain.Queen and Slim speaks of unity in polarising times. It is a reverberating call to power for Black people across America, and beyond, to recognise a shared history and experience. To celebrate the ways in which our similarities overlap and to revel in a complicity that has been historically stripped from us.

Coraly Langué is a London-based creative and writer. Find more of her work at langue.squarespace.com

Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

What's the one book you would want to read if you were stranded on a desert island?

&

"Oh gosh, any one from Maya Angelou, I’ve just read ‘When the Caged Bird Sings’" - Mary Russell, designer and model

"A book that would help me cope being on a desert island, a self help book or a survival book"

“Perks of Being a Wallflower”

- Rebecca Legon, disability activist

– Benedict Cork, singer-songwriter

"I'm reading Jay Shetty’s Think Like a Monk at the moment - just to keep myself calm in that situation and how to behave like a monk, I’d probably say that"

"The Four Agreements by Don Megel" - Samanta Bullock, model, entrepreneur, and former para-athlete

- Kirpal Bhogal

"Do you known what it would be? It would be Johnathan Van Ness’s biography. I’ve got it and I haven’t started it - I haven’t had time - so that would be it because I’m dying to read it" - Louise Hunt, Paralympic athlete

"The crimson petal and the white, my favorite book" – Ethan Bennett, model

I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings by Maya Angelou – Holly Tidwell, model

" I think my one book would be Katie Piper. I’ve read all her editions about her and her experiences and life journey, it really inspired me to be a confident person that I am today. She shared lots of tips on how she's overcome her struggles with her visual difficulties and scarring and how she's actually combated that and overcome it - it has been really, really inspirational to me, so that's probably something I would take with me to hold on to that fact that I can continue down this road. I can carry on inspiring people around me as well as my kids"

- Joti Gata-Aura, teacher and diversity activist

“It would have to be something visual.

Maybe a Tracey Emin book with paintings and photos – or a Sarah Lucas book. I’d have a Matthew Barney, one of his books has all these visuals of women with pearls in their mouths. There’s one book where you open it and there’s all these different compartments. Or Tracey Emin – Strangeland. No, I’d take Strangeland, because it would help me get out of the island!”

- Adam Frost, designer “ Ooh, that's hard. I'd probably take Shantaram because it's 900 and something pages. It's really gripping, I can imagine like being stuck on a desert island isn't going to be that fun, I presume. I wouldn't want to be stuck there forever. So I'm feeling a bit sorry for myself, I can read the book to get me through a really hard time. And it's such a long book if you're stuck. It'll take you ages to read and then you can always read it again”

– Ellie Gill, actress and model

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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT PURE LONDON BY RABI SULTAN