London Runway Issue 60

VEGAN BEAUTY . HISTORY OF BURBERRY . SUSTAINABILITY IN MANUFACTURING . NEW LOGO CHALLENGE

SILK ROAD FASHION . FASHION SCOUT . HOUSE OF IKONS . APU JAN . ARCHIVE HIGHLIGHTS . STYLE GUIDE

ISSUE 60 27TH MARCH 2021

THE INDEPENDENCE ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Lydia Petropoulou, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson Advertising enquiries - Salvatore Azzarelli and Matilda Kallinikou - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Fashion Scout, Rimba Raflesia, Cindy Bosveld, Henry Van Doerjatt, Style Mode, Ashley Stockbridge, Jhanavi Velasquez, Belen Carmona, Nastazja Nikiforova, Shalamova Lyubov, Yuliya Zimnyaya, Anastasiya Voinalovich, Baeva Svetlana, Aigul, Abal Lamis, Aizhan, House of iKons, Ram Eagle Photoworks, Gloria Montalti, Maria Elena Camilli, Rafael Marques, Camila Romanos, Jaqueline Duran, Debetta Special thanks to Alma Farmer

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

Face of London Runway 2020 ambassadors are Hannah Lewis and Orpheus Sloma

PAGE 1

CONTENTS

41 VISUALS

19 WORDS

Fashion Scout

6

Logo Design Challenge

Miss Rimba (Editorial)

19

How to Restyle Stolen Pieces From 30 Your Mum's Wardrobe

New Faces

33

Portfolio Piece

39

Silk Desert (Cover Editorial)

41

Fashion House Histories: Burberry 71 Part II

Silk Road Fashion

50

Naturally Beautiful: Said and Done 83

Style (Conscious) Guide: Red White and Blue

70

Manufacture is the Root of Sustainability in Fashion

95

London Runway's Favourites

73

Your Style Horoscope

109

House of iKons

86

The Big Question

122

Woman in Red (Editorial)

99

Shooting (Editorial)

`04

House of iKons: Kids

113

Apu Jan

116

Silk Road Fashion

4

50

s ' r o t i d E r e t t le Welcome to the 60th issue of London Runway.

I’ll say that again: the sixtieth. Six-zero.

We have produced sixty full issues (actually, sixty-one, because back at issue forty we went a little mad with power and did a double issue!). I just want to take a moment to stand back and appreciate how amazing that is.

Back when I launched the first issue of the magazine, on the 7th June 2017, I had no idea we would be going this far. I wrote, photographed, designed, and edited the first issue solo (please don’t look it up… it’s terrible. I cringe writing this, knowing what our Senior Graphic Designer would have to say if she saw it.

And she probably will, because she’s laying this out right now!). Today, we are a big, beautiful, and diverse team of four writers, three photographers, a

stylist, four graphic designers, an editorial assistant, and an advertising duo.

print is dead, and print publications are closing all over the place, our paper version has gone from strength to strength.

Our little family has grown and shrunk, fluctuating over time. We’ve counted amazing and talented illustrators amongst our number, and we’ve had short-term runners helping us out at busy Fashion Weeks. Things have changed drastically in the last year, but I’m proud to say our team rolled with the punches and faced everything with a positive outlook.

The dedication and hard work of the London Runway team is evident in every single page we’ve ever published, every social media post, every competition and conversation. We still get so excited about running live events, choosing our Face of London Runway every year, and seeing you share your copies of the magazine from home.

And the most amazing thing? We’ve done it all as a fully independent publication. We’ve never had any investments or help from outside companies. We had a very small grant (£100!) just over a year ago, and that’s the full extent of funding we’ve ever raised. Yet, in a time when they say that

So, here’s to being independent. Here’s to kicking butt and taking names for another four years, and smashing our message of sustainability, diversity, and equality as far as we can take it. Here’s to Issue 120 – and to Issue 600.

And here’s to you, dear reader, for coming along for the ride with us.

Enjoy -

RHIANNON D'AVERC

PAGE 3

LONDON RUNWAY

LOGO DESIGN

LR London R

U

N

W

A

Y

ABOUT Keeping up with our tradition of launching regular competitions and giving the chance to talented and ambitious people to shine, we are now putting together a logo competition. Whether you are a graphic designer, a student (over 18), an established artist, or just a creative amateur, we would like to see you designing a new logo for our magazine. The competition is for everyone. Take part and do not miss the chance to have an interview published in an upcoming issue and a featured portfolio of your work!

WHAT WE WANT

HOW IT WORKS

As always, the logo design should be aligned with the magazine’s core values. We are proud of our ethos and we want people to support it with their ideas.

Therefore, do not forget your design should reflect:

The competition will run over the course of two issues. We are now starting to take entries and we will be posting all eligible logos on Instagram, so make sure to re-share the posts we make and get everybody to vote on your design.

Equality Diversity/ Representation Sustainability

The more likes your design receives, the higher chance you have to win! The final winner will be announced in May’s issue (Issue 62).

We would like to see the way you interpret these terms.

YOU CAN SUBMIT VIA OUR WEBSITE HERE: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/LOGO-DESIGN PAGE 4

LONDON RUNWAY

SUBMIT YOUR DESIGN You are the one to decide how your logo will be. It can be anything related to London Runway. Let all your imagination and creativity free and have the chance to get noticed by established graphic designers.

After creating your logo, submit your design via our website or to info@londonrunway.co.uk with the corresponding personal information, such as your full name, social media links, etc. After submission, we will share all the designs on our social media pages, where a public vote will determine the winner!

L O N D O N

Y RUNWA

Requirements: Format should be .jpg or .png and the size should be 1080px x 1080px with the logo in the centre The logo can be in colour or black and white If it is a font-based design, it needs to be legible in a small format like an Instagram profile picture A short explanation of the concept should be included with your submission (you can but don’t have to include brainstorming method used, drawing, process pictures etc) Align your design with our core values mentioned on the previous page Must be your own work and design (no copyrighted works or images) Keep in Mind: Read through the full guidelines and make sure to fulfill all the requirements.

Put all your positivity and artistic flair in your design Don’t hold back if you have an extreme idea! We want to be impressed!

Do not apply multiple times. One is enough!

Do not be anxious, do it for fun and for your own development Stay true to your own artistic flair as we are looking for the most innovative and visually vocal designs to showcase to our readers!

THE WINNER: PRIZES AND MORE! The lucky winner will see their design featured in our magazine and shared through all our social media pages!

The winner will also receive:

FREE ISSUE WITH THEIR LOGO PRINTED ON THE COVER LOGO PRINTED AS BLACK AND WHITE STICKER OPPORTUNITY TO BE INTERVIEWED FOR THE ISSUE AND SHOWCASE YOUR PORTFOLIO

SO... WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? Every submission has an equal chance to win, so do not lose time and start working NOW! This is an amazing opportunity to show us your skills and creative flair. Submit your design and who knows? You could see your designs in the next issues!

*You are allowed to only enter the competition once. Multiple entries will be disregarded once they are either accepted through to the next round or rejected.

DEADLINE: APRIL 20TH 2021

YOU CAN SUBMIT VIA OUR WEBSITE HERE: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/LOGO-DESIGN PAGE 5

LONDON RUNWAY

FASHION SCOUT All images via Fashion Scout

CONSTANZIA YURASHKO

PAGE 6

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 7

BUFFET CLOTHING

EPICA JEWELLERY

JULIEN ESTEVES BERTHIER

PAGE 10

KRISTINA SIPULOVA

PAGE 11

LAURA THEISS

PAGE 12

LONDON RUNWAY

LISA KONNO & SARAH BLOK

PAGE 13

LONDON RUNWAY

PEPPER ROW

PAGE 14

LONDON RUNWAY

PETRA KOVACS

PAGE 15

LONDON RUNWAY

STUDIO ADAPTIVE SKINS

PAGE 16

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 17

LONDON RUNWAY

T_MITROVKA

PAGE 18

Miss Rimba Model: Rimba Raflesia @Rimbaraflesia Photographer/Retoucher: Cindy Bosveld @4uPerth Wardrobe Stylist/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Henry Van Doerjatt @henryvandoerjatt Wardrobe: Style Mode

LONDON RUNWAY

HOW TO RE-STYLE STOLEN PIECES FROM YOUR MUM’S WARDROBE In this article, Katie Abson shows you ways in which you can incorporate your mother’s vintage pieces into your modern wardrobe.

I’d like to begin by stating that this article is not limited to a mother’s wardrobe – you can steal from any wardrobe. Who knows what treasures you may find in the back of your Gran's drawer? Or even your Dad’s, for that matter. Okay, maybe not steal. Perhaps ask politely first?

Many of these pieces can also be found in charity shops across the country.

London offers a thriving hub of thrift

stores, such as Traid, Oxfam, Octavia Trust, Salvation Army shop and more.

Preloved Kilo also runs pop-up vintage kilo sales across the UK and has altogether saved 500 tonnes of clothing from going to landfill. In Covid times, there is still a variety of online shops to browse, such as Depop, Thrift+, eBay, Beyond Retro and Etsy.

whether it be a classic button-down or a silk wrap shirt. An Edwardian or chiffon blouse is a great example of a type of shirt your Mum or Gran might have lurking in the bottom drawer. Blouses embellished with ruffles, lace, buttons, and high collars can add a touch of classic glamour to any outfit.

But why not start from the comfort of your own home?

If you think your Mum’s shirt may be a little out of your comfort zone, try pairing the top with high waist momjeans (excuse the pun), an oversized jacket, and chunky trainers to achieve a casual overall look.

Here are a few pieces you can look to re-style from your mum’s wardrobe.

SHIRTS AND BLOUSES Shirts are a staple in any wardrobe,

Alternatively, wear the shirt over tight leather trousers, tucked into a

Via Pexels

PAGE 30

pair of biker boots to add an edge to the fit. Blouses can also look superb under fitted dresses. Match the shirt under a tartan dress or corduroy pinafore. Add accessories such as a pearl choker, colourful scrunchies, or delicate rings to add to this sophisticated feminine look.

For a more work-appropriate uniform, style the shirt with black or blockcoloured trousers, plain pumps, and an up-do hairstyle to show off that beautiful high-necked collar. Shirts are a super versatile piece of wardrobe, easy to dress up or down to suit any occasion. So, my advice? Steal away!

JACKETS Jackets can tie a look together in a matter of seconds. A good quality jacket is key for the chillier months, so pinching a vintage jacket that has survived the test of time due to its sturdy material can be a great substitute to purchasing something new.

It may be of no surprise to you that the first jacket I mention is the distinguished leather jacket. This jacket is timeless and can be paired with casual

Via Pexels

or evening attire. A great tip is to style a lighter underlayer beneath a dark jacket and finish by matching the colour of the jacket to your shoes. Be playful! If you spot a fiery red leather jacket, be bold and marry it with thigh-high boots, saucy heels, or chunky red trainers. You can’t go wrong with bold leather jackets, so go wild. Your Mum may even have a secret stash hidden away, and some even greater stories from the ‘80s that derive from each piece. Contrarily, a tuille skirt or layered dress in lighter feminine colours can juxtapose the edginess of the jacket; an all-round eyecatching look.

Is it just me, or does everyone, myself and my Mum included, own a puffer jacket? These versatile coats consistently crop up all over the country when the winter months hit.

Their popularity is a testimony to how great they look with any outfit.

Modernised puffer jackets often similarly feature a funnelled neck and cropped cut. Look for alternative shapes

Via Pexels

and patterns on your mother’s clothing rack. These may include knee-length maxi coats, belted jackets, crisscross lining and faux lined hoods. These would pair well with skinny jeans, winter boots, and accessorised with a matching scarf and bobble hat.

Too boring for you? How about pairing your puffer jacket over a colourful maxi dress? Cinch in the waist with a black belt to match thigh-high suede boots.

Tall boots are a great alternative to tights in the cold weather for keeping those calves nice and toasty. A lengthier puffer jacket would accentuate the straight line of this outfit, giving the appearance of an extended torso.

DENIM This beloved material exploded in popularity in the 60s for its practicality and wearability, so the likelihood of finding this material in almost any wardrobe is pretty high. Denim can take the form of jeans, jackets, shirts, dresses – you name it. 'Double denim’ is a classic two-piece look that can create a unified aesthetic. Pairing dark and light shades can contrast each other, so it is best to choose tonal denim for a cohesive finish.

When hunting through your chosen wardrobe, search for the un-obvious.

Knee-length denim skirts are not just an antiquated fashion trend. Wear the skirt with a sleeveless top, tied at the waist to accentuate your figure. Alternatively, tuck an oversized shirt into the skirt and finish the look off with a chunky brown belt. Mules and sandals go great with this look in the warmer weather. Or, you could match platform leather boots to the colour of your belt to unify the complete fit.

A denim waistcoat may seem a little old-fashioned, but it can produce that desired 90s-vibe in seconds if styled properly. Style the waistcoat over an off-the-shoulder ruffled white top to expose a little shoulder. Or, wear nothing underneath at all! The beauty of a waistcoat is that it can double as a top, and can look super flattering with embellished buttons.

Dungarees are a great addition for my fellow lazy day lovers. This one-piece takes seconds to style and leaves an effortlessly flawless finish. A colourful patterned T-shirt, a sophisticated turtleneck, a mesh long-sleeved top, a fitted jumper, or even that ruffled

Via Unsplash

Edwardian shirt you found earlier are all fantastic options to pair with your dungarees. Converse or Adidas trainers will add a casual finish, but for an edgier flare, couple with colourful Doc Martins, or even cowboy boots to create a flourished vintage look.

ACCESSORIES Pearl earrings, gold-plated watches, brooches, belts and more can add small but impactful touches to your outfit.

Large hooped earrings are flattering on everyone and can look great with layered chain necklaces and chunky rings. Thick white hoops add a pop of seventies charm, whereas diamondembedded earrings add a splash of sparkle and glamour.

Colourful berets are a wonderful addition to an outfit if you want to add a touch of French allure. Berets can be

PAGE 32

styled with dresses, print trousers, denim, ruffled shirts, and patterned jackets. This versatile piece of wardrobe is playful and suits all type of face shapes and haircuts.

To put it simply, no wardrobe is empty of potential. Modern fashion is all about reinterpreting styles from the past.

Protecting the environment is so important, and this is a great place to start if you want to build a more sustainable lifestyle through fashion. It’s all about starting small. Explore your creativity by bringing new life to each piece of clothing you find.

If you enjoyed this article you can follow more of Katie’s work on Twitter via @katieawriter.

Belen wears: Trousers - H&M; Blazer, Boots, T-Shirt - Zara; Hat - Reclaimed Vintage; Belt - Bershka

NEW FACES: BELÉN Name: Belén Age: 25 Location: London Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

I started to do some shootings when I was around 20 years old. Always with friends or some collaborations with various photographers in my city.

Where are you from originally?

I’m from Málaga, Spain.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I love to draw, do random pictures and gardening!

What would surprise people to know about you?

I’m not sure which kind of things could make people feel “surprised” to know about me... each person is completely different and its a complex world... So I’m gonna answer this question saying that the big surprise is not about the people, or people's expectations... it is about how I’m surprised about discovering myself everyday!

What are your modelling ambitions?

To be honest I don’t have modelling ambitions at all. I think that it is about good vibes, art and a bit of self love.

During the shooting I laugh and enjoy a lot... and when finally we have the results, it makes me feel really happy!

I consider that always will be a pleasure that someone wants to spend time with me just to share their own art and do this art with me!

Assistant Photographer/Assistant: Ashley Stockbridge @bigbadash180 Photographer: jhanavi velazquez @jhanaviphotography Model: Belen Carmona @beleeens

PAGE 34

NEW FACE: NASTAZJA Name: Anastasia Age: 25 Location: Gdansk, Poland Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

Since 15 years old Where are you from originally?

Dnipro, Ukraine

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

My talent is creativity What would surprise people to know about you?

Every moment is a surprise that fate hands What are your modelling ambitions?

To do it for as long and at the moment when it brings pleasure and inspiration.

Model/Photographer: Nastazja Nikiforova @nnastazja Cosmetics : Maybelline

PAGE 36

NEW FACE: LYUBOV Name: Lyubov Shalamova Age: 22 Location: Pskov Agency: Studied at Diva Models, now freelancer Where are you from originally?

Born in St. Petersburg

What would surprise people to know about you?

I have a very high IQ and two honors What are your modelling ambitions?

I am shooting TPP in those shootings that are interesting to me.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I draw, photograph, write poetry

Model: Shalamova Liubov @lunaselenagekata Hair & Makeup: Yuliya Zimnyaya @zimnyaya_yuliya Photographer: Anastasiya Voinalovich @voinalovich.photo

PAGE 38

BAEVA SVETLANA СВЕТА БАЕВА @luna_v_gallery

My work is a reaction to everything, I am a psychic artist, I feel everything that is happening around and inside, not only on earth, but also in space, because we are not a separate part, everything is connected.

Sketches on yoga, nude model. paper, pencil, marker, ink, watercolor.

portfolio piece

Model: Aigul @aigul.qn Model/Fashion Designer: Abal Lamis abal_lamis_ Photographer: Aizhan @aizhan.photographer

Silk Desert

Aigul and Abal wear Abal Lamis

Aigul and Abal wear Abal Lamis

Aigul and Abal wear Abal Lamis

Aigul wears Abal Lamis

Aigul wears Abal Lamis

Aigul wears Abal Lamis

Aigul wears Abal Lamis

Aigul wears Mango

Aigul wears Mango

LONDON RUNWAY

SILK ROAD FASHION

LONDON’S LATEST ONLINE SHOW - GLAMOUR, BEAUTY, ETHICS, AND ETHNIC DESIGN

Two thousand years ago, the Silk Road began – bringing exotic novelties from the far east to Europe, particularly silk, transforming Europe’s fashions for centuries.

Celebrating this heritage, Silk Road Fashion in London, led by Alma Farmer, continues to bring together ideas from east and west. The world of fashion is driven by new inspirations from the best creative minds. Sharing these ideas across Asia and Europe further fuels such creativity. Exchanging ideas, showcasing creativity, and developing a global fashion community – these are the goals of Silk Road Fashion in London.

Glamour and a special atmosphere: this is what one experiences at Silk Road Fashion in London events.

Whether it is the fashion show held in the VIP hall of the Chelsea Football Club, the show in the unique and historic Scottish House in Central London, or a trading fashion show during Romford Film Festival, you will always will find original designs and new international names, who might be well known in their own country, but bring new ideas for British fashionistas. And even now, during the pandemic, Silk Road Fashion in London was able to demonstrate digitally the beauties and novelties of international and British designers to a very high professional level!

The online fashion show, which took place on 20 the February during London Fashion Week, “Show the World How Great You Are! Fashion & Awards AW 21/22” presented the creations of 14 designers. It was a celebration of glamour, beauty, ethics, and ethnic design. It aimed to increase the global visibility of the designers and support the development of their fashion businesses.

The digital event was transmitted worldwide. Media, buyers, bloggers, and fashion professionals were invited to a VIP Zoom room.

Among the honoured guests were the Ambassadors of two Central Asian countries: Republic of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyz Republic, as for the first time six of the designers were from Kazakhstan and two from Kyrgyzstan.

A jury of professionals judged the designs and gave awards in five categories: Going Ethical; Ethnic in Modern Life; Stylish Every Day; Dazzling Glamour and The Best Video. Also two additional awards was offered: Special Jury Award and Silk Road Fashion Special Award for Supporting Culture.

The jury panel included London Runway’s own Rhiannon D’Averc!

Alma Farmer, who founded Silk Road Fashion, is based in London, where she has lived for more than 20 years. Alma began her career with a PhD in environmental protection and also worked on community development for the World Bank. This has given her a strong concern for ethical fashion and how designers consider environmental and social issues in the materials used, and in the way garments and accessories are manufactured.

She started to introduce international fashion designers and craftsmen in the UK after one event. It happened in one cold winter day in the mountains of Central Asia when she was working as a consultant for the World Bank project. In a village, Alma and her colleagues entered a hut, where there was no heating. Inside local women were felting wool, with

PAGE 50

their hands in water and steam coming from their mouths.

The dedication of these women to this traditional textile production inspired Alma to explore further producers and how modern designers were using sustainable materials in their creations.

The idea to promote the creativity of these women in the UK led to the creation of the Silk Road Fashion brand. Today Alma has a strong interest in many aspects of fashion – from exploring the creations of classic designers to enjoying the new creative ideas of emerging designers from all corners of the world. She aims to continue presenting a wide range of inspirational designers to many different audiences.

The designers at the online fashion show on 20 February included: AIDARKHAN KALIYEV is outstanding Kazakh designer, whose achievements are well known both nationally and internationally. He is also the founder of Aspara Fashion Week, which gathers international designers from around the World in person and online. It was also the main partner in the fashion show organised by Silk Road Fashion, London. Aidarkhan is founder and CEO of Asyl-Design fashion house, founder of a fashion college in Taraz, Kazakhstan and founder of a chain of shops in Kazakhstan. His collections were presented throughout CIS countries, as well as in private shows and official fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, Berlin, Amsterdam, Stockholm, Delhi as well as in China, Malaysia, Turkey, Serbia and Spain. Aidarkhan creates his collection in a neo-folklore style, where East meets West and modern style is combined with elements from Kazakh nomads.

Aidarkhan Kaliyev

JULIO CESAR BATTAGLIA Julio Cesar Battaglia is from Italy and his brand, Battaglia By Showstars, is unique and has been seen and worn around the World. He follows the principle: “It is time not to be dressed like everyone else!”. Julio has also promoted many other designers working internationally. He has organised large fashion events for many years, such as the Industry Meets Fashion event inside the plant of Mercedes Benz in Düsseldorf, as well as online fashion events in Marbella and Granada.

VENERA TABAKIN

GULMIRA AKMATOVA

The gowns of British designer Venera Tabakin have been showcased on red carpets worldwide, most notably at the prestigious Latin Grammys, Berlin Film festival, Festival de Cannes and BAFTA, to name a few. Her designs were applauded on many international catwalks, such as during Paris and London fashion weeks. She is also the winner of international Awards including joint award of the Silk Road Fashion, Scuderia Ferrari Club, London and Club Epicure International Award for “for her outstanding professional achievements in Fashion Design”.

Venera was given the “Dazzling Glamour” award at the online show on 20 February.

In the magic Tien Shen mountains of Kyrgyzstan, Gulmira Akmatova founded an amazing sustainable brand, Mountain Cedar Woollens.

The clothes she creates are made from scratch on her farm. Her collection carries the energy of the mountains blessed by legendary Kyrgyz Mother Deer. She learned to weave from her grandmother, starting to spin her own wool at the age of six and was weaving traditional patterns by the age of nine. Gulmira was given “Ethnic in Modern Life” award at the fashion show.

Mariane Henrique

NURDOS ALIASKAROV International jewellery designer Nurdos Aliaskarov is founder of the Nurdos Jewellery brand and has exhibited his collections in Asia and Europe. Fashionistas from Singapore and Istanbul to Amsterdam, Stockholm and Paris wear his very original handmade silver jewellery, enhanced with gems and enamel.

The brand also makes bespoke oneoff golden jewellery. On this digital fashion show, Nurdos was given “Special Jury Award”.

Nurdos Aliaskarov

OLGA TREGUBOVA Olga Tregubova is an artist-designer from Cyprus. Her brand Tregubova Art has a license for the ‘tremaltex’ technique for painting on clothes and is very advanced in upcycling.

Olga is a supporter of eco-fashion and extends the life of clothes by upcycling garments and turning them into pieces of art, ranging from street style to evening outfits. Olga’s designs have graced the catwalks at the opening of the Cannes and Almagro film festivals and in different fashion weeks. Olga is the initiator and author of the ‘World of Unique’ project, which supports creative youth. Olga was given “Going Ethical” award at the fashion show.

MARIANE HENRIQUE Parisian style and chic are what comes to mind when you see the bags of French designer Mariane Henrique, CEO of Sakoloko brand.

She merges together vintage and contemporary design, with clean lines. She draws on her aesthetic experience of photography and decorative arts to inform her design ideas, which view bags as a major part of our lives and not just an accessory. Sustainability is also at the heart of her creations, with carefully sourced materials and manufacturing methods.

Mariane first worked with Silk Road Fashion London as part of Jaded Lifestyles, as a showcase of official London Fashion Week in February 2020.

Olga Tregubova

PAGE 51

LONDON RUNWAY

Gulmira Akmatova

Venera Tabakin

DANA ASHIMOVA

KULAN ZHAGUTTY

Dana Ashimova’s brand is a great example of how you can look stylish while at the same time being environmentally friendly. Her clothes are made from recycled materials. Her ready-to-wear women’s garments and accessories are made using a patchwork technique. Everything is made out of unwanted fabric, American cotton. She uses natural plant dyes in bio-print and batik methods on this material, together with hand stitching to create her designs. The dyes are very stable and the fabric can be reused as it’s easy to untack the seams. The designs are, therefore, ethical in the materials used, the labour employed and consideration given to how the materials are treated after the garments are no longer worn.

Kulan Zhagutty studied art and different craft techniques in colleges in Kazakhstan and Western Ukraine. Later she was a craft school teacher, sharing her knowledge with children. Now retired, Kulan developed a real passion for felting and makes bespoke clothes.

Her designs have been shown on different fashion shows. Kulan was given Silk Road Fashion “Special Award for Supporting Culture”.

OMAR MANSOOR Omar Mansoor is a London-based fashion designer, well known for his couture occasion wear. Many people wear his designs, from actresses to aristocracy. Susanna Reid wore Omar Mansoor at the 2010 Academy Awards.

He was the first Pakistani to showcase at London Fashion Week (in 2008) and has presented his designs at Royal Ascot, Bahrain Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, and Top Model UK.

ANASTASIYA FALKOVICH

Kulan Zhagutty

Anastasiya Falkovich is one of the leading designers of Belarus and for the fourth time was showing her collection in London. The Falkovich brand makes clothes and costumes for the national Olympic team and dresses singers and celebrities for big musical events, such as Slavic Bazar, so well known to the eastern part of Eurasia. The Falkovich brand also provides charitable support for orphanages and made protective clothes and masks for doctors during the peak of Covid-19 in 2020. Anastasia Falkovich uses only natural fabrics such as wool, cotton and the famous Belarusian linen. Her embroidery uses ethnic motifs in her modern design and she is often inspired by the natural environment of her country.

Anastasiya received “Best Video” award in the fashion show.

PAGE 52

CHAPANSAR ChapanSar studio, founded by Jumagul Sarieva, is a great example of introducing ethnical designs into modern clothes. The Chapan is a traditional quilted or stitched coat which has been worn in Kyrgyzstan for centuries. Using natural materials, such as cotton, Jumagul designs chapans into really stylish outer wear form women and men. They are designed for different seasons of the year, being light, strong, and very practical. The brand also recycles material offcuts, making these into house accessories, and so manages waste-free production. The list of Jumagul catwalks and awards is endless. Her chapans have been seen from South Korea to USA. She has the UNESCO Award “For Excellent Quality” and UNESCO Resident-representative, Mr Ozonnia Ojielo, happily wears his chapan in his offices in Bishkek and New York. She received the “Stylish Every Day” award at the fashion show.

ALIYA GAISINA Aliya Gaisina and her brand, Aliya Sagdi, is centred around a life-asserting concept and combines beauty, traditional elements and glamour in her designs. She also merges different accessories into the whole look, such as some very original hats. Aliya also uses intricate embroidery to create bespoke looks.

BALGYN BALTABAYEVA Balgyn Baltabayeva is a young designer and a founder of Balgyn Amirkhan brand. She works in different styles.

Some of her designs build on traditional patterns and have a very ethnical design, others are modern, beautiful evening and bridal dresses.

SILK ROAD FASHION ASPARA

ALIYA GAISINA

PAGE 53

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 54

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 55

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 56

LONDON RUNWAY

FALKOVICH

PAGE 57

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 58

BALGYN AMIRCHAN

DANA ASHIM

PAGE 59

MOUNTAIN CEDAR WOOLENS

LONDON RUNWAY

BATTAGLIA BY SHOWSTARS

PAGE 61

BALATAY PAGE 62

SAKOLOKO NURDOS JEWELLERY

PAGE 63

TREGUBOVA ART

PAGE 64

LONDON RUNWAY

VENERA TABAKIN

PAGE 65

PAGE 66

LONDON RUNWAY

CHAPANSAR

PAGE 67

PAGE 68

OMAR MANSOOR

SILK

ROAD PAGE 69

STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE

Boden Childrens' Polo shirt College Navy Rainbow £19

ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli

Monsoon Juni cropped jacket in blue £70

Boden Kentmere Overshirt in Washed red £70 Stella McCartney 23 OBS Organic Cotton T-shirt £195 Colourful Standard classic organic sweatpants £60

Wealth London Luxtra Maya tote £250

Monsoon Smart shorter length trousers in linen blend blue £45

Stella McCartney Logo Cotton Sport Joggers £69

Boden Nonmedical face mask £20

Clarks Hopper lunch bag £10

All-bird Men's Wool runner-up mizzles £130

Stella McCartney Loop lace up sneakers £360

Clarks City bright £22

RED WHITE AND BLUE PAGE 70

Boden Smocked Spot woven dress £19.20

FASHION HOUSE HISTORIES: BURBERRY PART II This month, Cicilia Brognoli presents the second part of Burberry's history, from the early 2000s to nowadays. Did you catch the first part? Check out Burberry’s founding and early story in Issue 59!

CHRISTOPHER BAILEY ERA For many, the pairing of Christopher Bailey and Burberry sounds like an obvious combination. For those who did not know what we are talking about, Bailey was one of the most enduring Chief Creative Officers at the head of a non-eponymous brand.

He took the company's artistic reins back in 2001, making it a luxury label.

Indeed, when he arrived, Burberry was nothing more than the trench coat inventor.

It was not all plain sailing, as, after just a few months of Bailey's arrival, Burberry's fame tumbled into a period of repulsion from the British upper class. In 2002, the actress Danielle Westbrook was caught by paparazzi wearing a total Nova checked look.

Suddenly all luxury department stores removed Burberry from their windows. An aura of sloppiness dropped on this brand.

Bailey restored its fame thanks to his

visionary ideas and highly commercial strategy. He paved the label's way to success using celebrity campaigns.

Emma Watson, Sienna Miller, and Victoria Beckham featured in the advertisement campaigns. In no time, Burberry became one of the most desirable brands.

Bailey also turned his attention on well-known British models like Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, and Cara Delevingne, now the most famous faces associated with the brand.

Bailey brought Burberry to London Fashion Week (LFW), making it one of the most anticipated events. Thus, LFW started attracting editors and influencers from all over the world.

BE STRATEGIC Although Bailey has a lot of merits, Burberry has always been a snappy and strategic company. Its success started thanks to the masterful handcraft and visionary design, always looking to develop classic yet timeless products. However, no topquality product can make its way without a flawless marketing and communication strategy. One of this iconic brand's central pillars is the

PAGE 71

focus on luxury store experience aimed at elevating customer service. Even before the pandemic, this label heavily relied on digital presence, establishing itself as a leader in online sales and experiences.

AT THE DAWN OF ONLINE LUXURY Despite being founded more than 150 years ago, Burberry has never been stuck in the past. Its motto, "Prorsum", a Latin word meaning forward, is the perfect demonstration. Burberry has always looked ahead, establishing itself as a visionary in customer experience.

Thanks to the ideal integration and unity in the shopping experience, whether in-store, online, or by phone, Burberry is one of the world leaders from an omnichannel perspective. The digital connection with its customers is fundamental, and for this reason, the company has always invested in technology.

In 2009, it was one of the first luxury brands to appear on Facebook. Shortly after, it started using Twitter, bringing the products' shoppability to the next level. People could discover and buy with one click the nail polish worn by the model in the picture. Now all of this is perfectly normal, but more than a

LONDON RUNWAY decade ago, such a novelty left many people speechless.

Burberry focuses heavily on earned media, boosting its brand awareness thanks to the social sharing of its contents by other web users. The aim is to reach super-fans and curious people simply by starting word of mouth and letting people share the news freely.

CUSTOMISATION IS KEY To be groundbreaking, you need economic resources combined with excellent foresight. Being a leader in the luxury market is not easy, as customers are looking for experiences rather than simply products, and customisation is key. Burberry is a symbol of timeless luxury and contemporary aesthetic.

Hence, it has a very heterogeneous clientele. Older people look for classy top quality leather products and trenches. At the same time, Millennials go crazy for product customisation and the reinterpretation of classic statement pieces.

This company excels in satisfying its young customers, always looking for great experiences. This is a long-term strategy, as Millennials will most likely pay dividends for years to come.

Burberry hits the mark with the customisation of iconic products.

Owning a traditional Nova checked lined trench coat or scarf is in itself a fashion goal for many. Having a fully customised statement piece is even more remarkable. Burberry Bespoke allows people to personalise their trench by choosing from various options ranging from buttons to the lining and the outside of the jacket. In 2015, customers could experience the Burberry Scarf Bar. This offered a choice of 30 colours and yarns, and you could even have your monogram embroidered. Leaping back into the present, in-store shoppers can also scan the RFID code on the tags to access an exclusive video showing the product's craftsmanship.

FREE DIGITAL EXPERIENCES Back in 2009, Burberry hit the mark with its 'Art of the Trench'. On this microsite, customers could post pictures wearing their beloved trench.

Everyone could access the platform; hence, Burberry's aspirational value skyrocketed, creating a proper digital community. Many fashion brands want to offer an authentic lifestyle, and Burberry is no exception.

powerful words like leading, globally, luxury and British boosts every digital content the brand proposes.

Music and fashion often influence each other. In 2010, Burberry Acoustic was born. This platform promoted young UK talents by creating a forum for discussion and collaboration. Nothing is done by chance, and of course, music artists wore Burberry's outfits.

2018 was a decisive year for Burberry; Bailey left the brand's creative direction after 17 years, with a magnificent tribute to the LGBTQ community. His latest collection was a triumph of rainbows and heritage checked pattern.

It financially supported three charities working with LGBTQ communities located around the world.

A trench worth thousands of pounds is certainly not for everyone. Still, a lovely digital marketing gimmick can be experienced by anyone. In 2013 the brand launched Burberry Kisses, a digital campaign in collaboration with Google promoting its new lipsticks. The brand's website would let users send out virtual kisses in the colour of their favourite lipstick shade. People had to stare at their webcam or kiss the screen of their smartphone.

FASHION SHOWS AND ONLINE SHOPPING Back in 2008, Burberry live-streamed its fashion show, bringing us all just a click away. Although Burberry does not focus much on its settings, it certainly does not go easy on technological innovations. In fact, in 2016, it introduced the see-now-buynow concept. Consumers can buy garments directly on the day of the show, both online and in the store.

Moreover, collections became seasonless and therefore are identified simply as 'September' and 'February'. While the in-store shopping experience is more enjoyable for many, accessing Burberry's website is like walking into the Regent's Street flagship store.

The highly appealing aesthetics, content variety, and smart features make it one of the most outstanding websites in the luxury landscape.

Indeed, according to Christopher Bailey, Burberry is as much a content-driven company as it is a top fashion icon.

The strategic choice of using

PAGE 72

RICCARDO TISCI’S REBRANDING BURBERRY

The gender fluidity of this collection announced the arrival of the new creative director, Riccardo Tisci. After closing his collaboration with Givenchy, which lasted 12 years, this Italian designer arrived at Burberry bringing a vision that could not be more different from Bailey's. Tisci has a dark aesthetic and provocative style.

He's known for being one of the first designers exploring gender fluidity and luxury street style.

To give a clear break from the Bailey' era, Tisci rebranded Burberry. He designed a new logo mixing the brand's traditional beige colour with a modern bold font and a touch of dark orange.

The result is a contemporary and cool monogram. Tisci is bursting with ideas, and who knows what else he will bring to the brand.

While we wait for the next Burberry's collection, it is always a pleasure to leap into its history. Burberry is the perfect example of resilience and avant-garde.

The brand's adventurous spirit began way back in 1856 with Thomas Burberry and has been masterfully carried on by Bailey and now by Tisci.

Discover more of Cicilia's articles on ciciliabrognoli.com

LONDON RUNWAY'S FAVOURITES As we celebrate our 60th issue, we asked our staff photographers to share their favourite shots from Fashion Weeks gone by. Take a trip through our archives with these gorgeous looks and stunning shots!

Fil Mazzarino Fil picked out these shots from designers Alexa Chung, Halpern, Jasper Conran, and Mary Katrantzou.

Mary Katrantzou

PAGE 30

Jasper Conran

Halpern

PAGE 30

PAGE 30

Alexa Chung

Vin and Omi Rohmir

Paul Costelloe

Ian Clark Ian chose a selection from Blindness, DB Berdan, Matty Bovan, Ong Oaj Pairam, Pam Hogg, Paul Costelloe, Rohmir, and Vin+Omi as his favourites.

LONDON RUNWAY

Matty Bovan

DB Berban

Ong Oaj Pairam

PAGE 81

LONDON RUNWAY

Pam Hogg

Mimpikita

Blindness

PAGE 82

NaturallyBeautiful: SAID AND DONE

Τhis week, Lydia Petropoulou shares her thoughts on vegan and organic beauty, while discussing some of the most popular vegan cosmetic brands.

Vegan: Depending on the age and the country someone has grown up in, this word can have more positive or negative associations. In more traditional countries, people construct an imagery of mostly thin and pale people, full of negativity and unwillingness to taste even the last bit of a delicious chicken nugget - or who, for some reason, choose to make a cake with coconut oil instead of butter.

In other countries, going vegan has become very common among the population and it is not only associated with food, but also with other aspects of everyday life, such as fashion and beauty.

The industry and companies worldwide are clever enough to promptly capture this change in trends, and they are launching new products, trying to minimise their environmental impact as far as possible. In contrast with the past, people now seem to care more about what really goes into their body, face, and skin. They seem to spend more time looking at the ingredients of a product before buying it and, in this case, nature and sustainability win!

Before introducing the most popular vegan beauty brands, I would like to

explain the difference between the terms “vegan” and “cruelty-free”, as they represent a common misconception for many consumers.

Vegan means that a product does not contain any animal derivatives, whereas cruelty-free means that the product has not been tested on animals. Based on that distinction, the brands discussed below are vegan and some of them may also be cruelty-free.

KVD Vegan Beauty The model Kat Von D admits that she had never thought of making a makeup brand with her name, until Sephora approached her for the first time. She then aimed at creating the four perfect shades of red lipstick.

Now, she has turned her brand into a vegan beauty paradise, where you can find absolutely everything. She is proud to be included herself in the process of production, testing of formulas, labelling, packaging design, and layout. In the UK, KVD products are available in Boots, UK Amazon, and UK ebay. Of course, buyers can also use the US website, but it will be more hustle and bustle, as they will need to hire a package forwarder to the UK. More information can be found at yoreoyster.com/shipping/sephorauk.

The brand has been mostly vegan since its launch in 2008 and it officially went 100% vegan in 2016.

PAGE 83

Kat Von D and her team are proud to have spent more than 10 years in trying to reinvent the product formulation to be vegan.

Most popular products Everlasting Liquid Lipstick: Available in 27 colours and designed to stay on the lips, unless you purposefully take it off.

Tattoo Liner: The Holy-Grail eyeliner, waterproof and resistant, with ultra-precise brush tip for the great cat-eye look.

Shade and Light Eye Contour Palette: A mix of warm and cool toned matte eyeshadows in an everyday wearable palette.

Shade and Light Refillable Face Contour Palette: Comprising of six different shades of powders for contouring and highlighting the best parts of your face.

LONDON RUNWAY

E.L.F Cosmetics A very popular 100% vegan beauty brand, as it combines high-quality products with affordable prices. In 2019, the company reduced its packaging footprint by 650,000 pounds of packaging waste.

The products are cruelty-free and free from most chemical ingredients (parabens, triclosan, sulfates). The range of products are available in drug stores, Ulta, and other retailers.

Most popular products 16HR Camo Concealer: Full coverage, matte and a small amount goes a long way. It blends nicely with a beauty blender and it dries down very quickly.

Poreless Face Primer: A siliconefree, smooth face primer in many versions to choose according to your facial needs (hydrating, brightening, tone correction etc).

Instant Lift Brow Pencil: Smooth formula that lasts all day without being waxy. After using it once, make sure you keep turning it, because the tip can lose its precision.

Aqua Beauty Molten Liquid Eyeshadow: Too glam with a little effort! The liquid eyeshadows are pigmented and easy to apply and blend with a brush or the doe foot applicator.

There are a couple of gorgeous shades to choose from.

Sukin

even and smooth.

Purifying Facial Mask Jar: Designed to hydrate and smooth your skin, containing aloe vera, rosehip, and Kaolin clay.

Hydrating Mist Toner: Contains rosewater and is the perfect base for moisturiser. It is antioxidant, hydrating, and soothes your skin.

N.A.E.

I have not seen this brand featuring on many websites about vegan beauty yet, but it is really worth trying, in my opinion. Inspired by Italian herbalism, the products are 99% made of natural ingredients and they smell beautifully. Best thing: they are not pricey at all!

Most popular products Solid Shampoo Bars: They are an excellent alternative to shampoo bottles and a moneysaving choice, as 1 bar = 2 shampoo bottles = 30-50 washes.

Nourishing Night Cream: With a silky satin-smooth texture combining sea lavender extract and sunflower oil, it is designed to nourish the skin overnight and relieve it from morning dryness.

Firming Day Cream: A solution for mature skin, prone to wrinkles. Nine out of ten women who used it claimed that it improves the skin’s elasticity and radiance over time. It is made of jasmine extract and olive oil.

This brand makes a long journey from Australia. It is 100% vegan and cruelty-free, mostly made from organic products, without any parabens, harsh ingredients or mineral oils. The brand aims at protecting the environment, while providing high-quality products.

Most popular products Certified Organic Rosehip Oil: Use it during the winter, when the skin becomes drier. It is designed to relieve your skin from any irritation or redness.

Facial Moisturiser Pump: Suitable for dryness, it removes all the impurities from face and leaves it

PAGE 84

Hourglass A high-end choice, but still very popular among women, as it combines stunning packaging with complexion-perfecting products.

The brand went totally vegan since the end of 2020 and the name itself gives the feeling of a dewy and alabaster finish, similar to that of Korean models. The whole range of products is available at Sephora.

Most popular products Ambient Lighting Bronzer: A mix of bronzer and lighting powder, available in six shades, gives your skin a luminous and soft look, while creating transparent coverage.

Veil Mineral Primer: Suitable for all skin types, this primer will take · your foundation to the next level. Very good for pores, oil and cruelty-free, and with sunscreen protection (SPF 15), it will always be in your bag.

LONDON RUNWAY Veil Translucent Setting Powder: A weightless powder with lightreflecting particles to reduce pores and minimise imperfections, fine lines, and wrinkles. It leaves your skin smooth and radiant. ·Vanish Seamless Finish Foundation Stick: A full-coverage long-wear foundation suitable for all skin types. It is waterproof and weightless, despite containing a double dose of pigment, in contrast to standard foundations. In a clinical study conducted in the US among 32 women, 100% reported an easy use and application, 97% an immediate improvement in skin and 97% reduce of redness and imperfections.

Of course, there are more vegan beauty brands worth mentioning, such as Pacifica, well-known for its own recycling programme; Pai, inspired by the Korean philosophy; Kylie Skin, with the signature of the famous model Kylie Jenner; and Milk Make up (completely vegan since 2019).

However, in this article, I chose to refer to the most easy-to-find and popular in the market right now.

Whatever you finally choose, it will surely be worth it, as the planet is currently in danger and the earth’s

resources are fewer than humans want to exploit. Vegan beauty is going upwards in most countries, as people have started to rethink their existence in a whole world. It is a nice feeling to hold responsibility over our choices and consider the environment when shopping makeup or skincare products.

In my opinion, they will make us look more beautiful from the inside out.

House of iKons Photographer: Ram Eagle Photoworks

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 87

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 88

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 89

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 90

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 91

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 92

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 93

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 94

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 95

MANUFACTURE IS THE ROOT OF SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION

Bridging the gap between sustainable and stylish, Jessica Carvalho explores the correlation between brands’ manufacturing processes and how ecofriendly they are, tapping into the “greenwashing” epidemic in the fashion industry.

If fashion is the fire that burns brightest, manufacture is the fuel that keeps it going. It is no secret that both of these industries go hand in hand to provide us with perhaps one of the most phenomenal and personalised forms of communication, working harmoniously to keep their gears turning even in times where everything else has slowed to a halt. Lockdown has propelled a boom in e-commerce as it becomes the hobby of choice for the many currently living a rather digitised life; though that does not mean that some negative effects haven’t been felt across the industry, with several businesses seeing their fate hanging in the balance even after a year the initial restrictions were implemented.

However, in an era where fashion has perhaps been the only sector of the economy to somewhat persevere, it begs the question of whether the very garments we so eagerly seek fall in harmony with the sustainable morals

we’ve come to know and adapt into our daily lives. It is time to take a good look at where our clothes originate from and how they are being brought from sketchbook to shelf.

For brands and manufacturers alike, the first order of business when it comes to sustainability is to seek fabric alternatives. Cotton, synthetics, and animal derivates are becoming out of fashion and the spotlight is shifting to their sustainable counterparts. For example, it is estimated that making a single cotton t-shirt requires over three thousand litres of water; to put the statistic into perspective, a regular household’s daily water usage averages at two hundred litres.

Water usage in clothing manufacture is becoming one of the most quickly developing sustainability issues, the fashion industry falling third only to oil and paper in terms of largest water usage (Common Objective, 2018).

This is where sustainable fabrics can be used to their full advantage; fibres such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, recycled nylon and biosynthetics are rising in popularity among manufacturers and designers

PAGE 97

as they allow for garments to take shape in materials which not only look good but also do good. A recent example of this is Prada’s Re-Nylon collection, wherein the previously virgin nylon bags were remade using regenerated nylon, the brand going as far as pledging to convert all of its regular nylon to the eco-friendly alternative currently in use by 2021.

Though undoubtedly a good start, sustainability in manufacture transcends the materials used.

Production is arguably the most fundamental part of the manufacturing process, and it requires reformation across the industry. Some of the steps that could be adopted are the use of 100% “pure” materials to assist with recycling, incorporating natural dyes or the use of mixed materials to increase quality and durability.

Some manufacturers who truly wish to up their sustainability game even adopt closed-loop systems. Brands actively encourage these items to be in circulation for as long as possible, which also taps into upcycling and DIY, both popular practices nowadays.

Although often slandered due to being associated with fast fashion and

harmful manufacture, H&M is making noble moves in the ongoing sustainability campaign by integrating a closed-loop system that encourages manufacturers and customers to play their part. The fashion conglomerate has launched an in-store recycling system wherein customers can drop off their unwanted clothes and receive a voucher in return. Clothes collected via the campaign are recycled and used for the manufacture of H&M garments.

Although there is a wildfire of hope steadily burning through the industry as more manufacturers adopt sustainable practices, the living and breathing element of clothing manufacture is often forgotten. All the items we wear were put together by a pair of hands, and now more than ever, worker’s rights must be at the forefront of sustainability pledges.

Online-only brands seem to be the worst at ensuring their workers’ rights are being kept in mind, coupling the use of harmful materials with poor labour conditions. These include dangerous working environments, unfair wages, and even forced labour.

On a worldwide scale, the likelihood of unethical manufacture skyrockets, as sweatshops and child labour are added to the picture.

COVID-19 also shed light on the wage issue: several brands were exposed for not paying their workers throughout the pandemic, even when they were working. The outrage sparked the #PayUp campaign on Twitter, which applied pressure on brands to pay their workers fairly and on time.

One organisation is serving as a voice for those being treated unfairly – the Clean Clothes campaign aims to ‘improve [working] conditions’ in the industry, providing an informative website where people can educate themselves on what is and isn’t ethical manufacture, living wages, and what customers can do to trigger change.

Several brands have ignited a spark and vowed to not only manufacture sustainably but also ethically. Amidst these genuine promises were some that fell short, and hence originated the term ‘greenwashing’. This word was first coined by environmentalist Jay Westerveld in the tail end of the ‘80s, used to describe marketing tactics that make a brand appear more eco-friendly (or ‘greener’) than they actually are. The damaging effects of this are pretty obvious, but effectively conning customers into

PAGE 98

buying from a brand that goes directly against all they stand for is very harmful to the campaign for sustainability. It has dulled the impact of social pressure that usually drives brands and manufacturers to do better.

It isn’t anything new by all means, but it is steadily on the rise and many brands have been singled out for untrue sustainability pledges.

It would be naïve to say that greenwashing will fade. It seems rather unlikely: as more customers begin to value sustainability and are far sharper at telling true green apart from the grey, manufacturers and brands will get more creative.

However, there is a silver lining in the clouds of deception. Some manufacturers may decide to truly reform themselves and become ecofriendlier along the way, and people may begin to turn to sustainable brands voluntarily; either way, this fire isn’t quite done burning yet, and it will be going for some time.

More of Jessica’s work can be found on her Instagram page, @whatjesstypes.

Images via Pixabay and Canva stock

Woman in red Location: FantiniClub Model: Gloria Montalti @gloria_montalti Photographer: Maria Elema Camilli @meryscami

SHOOTING

Photographer: Rafael Marques @rafamarquesfotografias Model: Camila Romanos @romanos.camila Makeup: Jaqueline Duran @jaque_duran Jewellery: Debetta @debettafigurinos

LONDON RUNWAY

YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice brings you independent, women-owned fashion brands for this week’s style horoscope in light of Women’s History Month.

In addition to celebrating our own independent magazine for our 60th issue, we’ll also be celebrating these independent, women-owned brands making their mark in the sustainable fashion market. Any item from each of these empowering brand will be sure to make the signs glow with self-confidence!

Aries March 21 - April 20 The Juliette Pink Rose Viscose Satin Ruffle Maxi Dress, “A De La Vali signature, versatile yet instantly striking.” Both of the Aries’s inner child and boss woman energy will exude with this dress. Each piece by the brand is made in-house by a small team, and they only work with ethical and eco-friendly factories and suppliers.

Taurus April 21 - May 21 The tailored Suit Bralet Jacket by Cabrini Roy London is the perfectly understated statement piece in any Taurus’s life!

Emphasising the female form with power dressing and soft silhouettes, the Filipiniana-inspired designs take inspiration from the creator’s childhood and Filipino culture. .

Gemini May 22- June 21 Dôen, with femininity at its core: the sister duo and six other women who founded the brand in 2016 strive to enhance the wearer’s beauty with every piece, while closing the gender gap. This Nola Embroidered Silk-satin Maxi Dress in pastel yellow, perfect for the shining Gemini, is one example of their pieces.

PAGE 109

LONDON RUNWAY

Cancer

June 22- July 22 MaisonCléo is an e-shop run by a French mother-daughter duo with an emphasis on transparency and sustainably. Using reclaimed fabrics for their vintageinspired pieces, like this pastel pink Sophie Floral-print Cotton Mini Skirt with matching scrunchie, Cancers will feel both comfortable and cute!

Leo July 23- August 21 Emphasising natural hair and the associated pride or pain, the Irun (‘hair’ in Yoruba) Trouser and Shirt set in silky satin is inspired by the memories of getting one’s hair done by the most important women in one’s life. With the afro comb print, Kai Collective’s pieces advocate for women and equality, focusing their efforts on ethical manufacturing processes and sustainable fabrics, perfect for the standout Leo!

Virgo August 22- September 23 This English-Sicilian sister duo started Soru Jewellery, meaning sisters in Sicilian, back in 2013 after leaving their careers to be full-time mothers to their young children! Inspired by the women in their lives, each piece is handmade ethically in Italy or Turkey. Pictured are the Emerald Green Linear Earrings, perfect for that Virgo statement!

PAGE 110

LONDON RUNWAY

Libra September 24- October 23

By Megan Crosby, a brand created “for women who love fashion, but hate the impact it has on the planet.” Currently reopening on March 26th, the pieces are handmade to order and uses ecofriendly dyes and deadstock and remnant fabrics. This playful pyjama set can be donned by a Libra any time of the day.

Scorpio October 24- November 22 With the slight pop of colour, this Miranda dress materialises the romantic yet stoic nature of these mysterious signs. The hand drawn florals on the minimalist design and flattering, hugging silhouettes is a few ways that BERNADETTE, a mother-daughter duo fashion label, aims to inspire through fashion.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Glamour magazine’s 2013 Women of the Year and mental health advocate, the supermodel creative director and founder of the brand LemLem and its corresponding foundation is committed to elevating artisanship and expanding production and jobs across Africa, with women at the heart! This ethereal Eshal Tier dress is a prime example and will look stunning on the wanderlust Sagittarius.

PAGE 111

LONDON RUNWAY

Capricorn December 23- January 20 Flashy and bright orange are not words usually associated with Capricorns, but this Marlene flamenco-inspired wrap skirt is the perfect versatile piece for when they want to be productive in style. Consches is an eco-friendly fashion brainchild focusing on fair, high-quality pieces empowering both the wearer and makers.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Best friend duo started RIXO in their London living room as students back in 2015. This Holly Slip in Mermaid Patchwork is one of the quirky pieces offered, with a fusion of original handpainted prints to flatter any silhouette.

The piece is described as “an anyseason gal”, just like the fashionable Aquarius!

Pisces February 20 - March 20 M.92’s Balloon-sleeved Dress is everything and more for a Piscean looking to fly away into an alternate wonderland era, not to mention the comfortability of this piece!

Using natural materials with quality craftsmanship, you can’t go wrong.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Photo Credits: Respective Instagrams and Websites of Designers/Brands

PAGE 112

HOUSE OF IKONS KIDS Photography by Ram Eagle Photoworks

AP

N A J U

LONDON RUNWAY

APU

JAN PAGE 116

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 117

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 118

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 119

LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 120

LONDON RUNWAY

Images via Apu Jan

PAGE 121

Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

If you could only wear one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it be?

&

"Clothed in happiness... dress"

- Nastazja Nikiforova, model and photographer

"Trainers and tracksuits"

- Lily Mills, model and tennis player

"Shorts, I love shorts. Just give me sunshine all the time and I won’t look silly in shorts" - Mary Russell, Model and Designer

"Black no matter what. Black jeans, black trousers, black dress"

"I love my prom dress. I had my prom last year in June"

- Samanta Bullock, model, athelete, and entrepreneur

- Kathleen Humberstone, model and actress

“One of our dresses! If we don’t wear it…”

- Laura Beattie at Careaux

"I’d probably say a Spurs top. I'm a huge Tottenham fan! That or anything black to be honest, but on a desert island I don’t think I’d be wearing black" - Kirpal Bhogal, model and actor

"It would be a pair of jeans because would take me a long way. I could dress it up, dress it down, and just be who I am.

That's the most important thing, being comfortable in who I am, and jeans allow me to be that way"

"Black jeans and a black t shirt. It’s what I always wear anyway"

- Joti Gata-Aura, disability advocate and presenter

- Rebecca Legon, disability activist

“My dressing gown. It would be really smelly, but I’d love it”

"For shoes, it’s very easy. Chelsea boots, Cuban heels. Then I would wear black skinnies – maybe coated black. Then between a t-shirt or a shirt, and then a denim jacket on top. And a bandana or a fedora hat. I’d wear my studded jacket"

– Benedict Cork, singer-songwriter "Pyjamas. Matching Victoria’s Secrets if you want specifics!"

– Angel Nokonoko, designer at NokNok London

- Louise Hunt, tennis player

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

NEXT: THE BLOOM ISSUE THE INDEPENDENCE ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

BACK COVER: BY FIL MAZZARINO, BACKSTAGE AT PETAR PETROV