FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY FINALISTS . VIRTUAL CELEBS . GFW STUDENT INTERVIEWS . UNISEX JEWELLERY
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK . CHABS . THE LONDON SEVEN COLLECTIVE . FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY SEMI-FINAL
ISSUE 64 27TH JULY 2021
THE ORIGINALITY ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar Advertising enquiries - Salvatore Azzarelli and Matilda Kallinikou - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Adetola Olagbaju, Alison Cline-Williams, Dawn Gomersall, Kirsty Spence, Pariz Santos, Spirit Jansen, Faizz Mir, Flavio de Brito, Javier Flowers, Jonhoi Burnett, Pele Sengphom, Robert Keene, Boda Skins, Emanuela Vasilevska, Hayden Anderson, Ksenija Anisimova, Mihaela Rogova, Marina Apanasovic, Myron Macapagal, Timár Judit, S.E. Photo, MTA Photo Studio, Gergely Nagy, Angela Basics, Égető Erika, Eszter Égető Albatros, James Corner, Brittany Battista, Kristian Comer, Alexandra Kieffer, Hilary Hermandez, Yulia German, Ardak Barlan, Veronika Lemle, Aika Vila, Pietro Recchia, Liberty Victoria, Aminat Odunewu, Tamar Keburia, Tanja Smith, Staci Bernstein, Noah Russell, Thomas Woods, Vivienne Monique, Stephany Iona, Alexia Brasov, Ram Eagle, Ninah Aguila, Liliana Lehadus, Diana Brasov, Bryony Knight, Lenara Lanskaya, Galdina Margarita, Rina Shed, Natalya Goryachkovskaya, Daria Parfisyuk, Shaun James Cox Photography Special thanks to: Maxine Griffiths, LemonAid, ChariTea, T on the Green, the helpers and interviewees Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk © 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2020 ambassadors are Hannah Lewis and Orpheus Sloma
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CONTENTS
1 VISUALS
1 WORDS
Hell For Leather
23
Face of London Runway 2021 The Finalists
4
New Faces
35
Portfolio Piece: Alexandra Kieffer
AR U Real? The Rise of Virtual Celebrities
20
44
Hilary
46
Regaining Power Through Dresses 33
Samsung KX Graduate Fashion Week Showcase
62
Graduate Fashion Week is Back
Graduate Fashion Week Talks
65
Why Unisex Jewellery is Having its 81 Moment
Tamar Keburia
67
Interview: Bryony Knight
93
Style (Conscious) Guide: Young Designers
72
Your Style Horoscope
111
73
How Much is an Arts Degree Worth?
124
Lustre Princess Diaries
83
The Big Question
126
Chabs
96
Daniel Hanson Design
108
DSK London
115
The London Seven Collective
117
Folk Tales
118
57
s ' r o t i d E r e t t le It’s been a turbulent month here in London. We’ve seen a lot of shocking news stories, ups and downs that have carried us along. First, there was the euphoria of the England men’s football team reaching their first major final in over five decades. Then, there was the loss of that final – accompanied by some truly disgusting behaviour from those who call themselves fans. The display of racism that followed was abhorrent, and above all, it highlighted exactly how far we still have to go in the fight for equality and fair treatment. While there are always going to be hatefilled individuals in any society, it was a far larger chunk of the population than would ever be comfortable to witness taking part in the abuse. London Runway always has and will continue to fight against racism in all its forms, highlighting the beauty that comes with diversity. London is a wonderful city for so many reasons, but the biggest has to be the people that live in it. We are diverse.
We come from different cultures and backgrounds, all over the world. We don’t all look the same. We don’t think the same. We don’t dress the same. We are unique and stronger for it. It is this that makes London the fashion capital of the world. Let’s not destroy that by letting rotten, outdated, and hateful ideas persevere. Since the football, we’ve also had socalled Freedom Day. I recently overheard an older woman explain it succinctly to her granddaughter: “The way I see it, it’s Freedom Day because I have freedom to choose – and I’m choosing to keep my mask on.” It’s our duty, now and while the pandemic persists, to protect not just ourselves but the most vulnerable members of society. The elderly, disabled, and Black and Asian communities have all been struck harder by COVID-19 than others, and it’s no coincidence that these are often the most disadvantaged individuals in our society.
individuals can continue to interact with society with the freedom they’ve enjoyed during the pandemic. Video calling and virtual events don’t have to stop just because some of us can now meet in person again. Let’s remember, too, that our society is judged by the way we treat the weakest among us. And let’s celebrate heroes and role models, rather than trying to batter them down for something as simple and irrelevant as the colour of their skin. Alright, now that’s out of the way, let’s talk about something much more positive – the final of the Face of London Runway 2021. I’m proud to say that we have the most diverse top ten… er… okay, top twelve ever. (When you see who we’ve picked, you’ll understand why we simply couldn’t narrow it down any further!). Look out for the chance to vote across our social media channels this month, and meet all of our finalists within the next few pages!
Let’s keep access open, so that disabled Enjoy-
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2021
THE FINALISTS!
Rhiannon D’Averc introduces the finalists for the Face of London Runway 2021 – and how we reached this point.
After a long journey of virtual sessions, we were finally able to get together in person for our semi-final round of this year’s Face of London Runway competition, sponsored by ChariTea and LemonAid. Here’s how it all happened: An entry form appeared on our website, allowing entrants to submit photographs, videos, and their essential details. In our first round, we heard from over 250 applicants – and were still getting enquiries a few weeks after the closing date (sorry – you snooze, you lose)! We narrowed this list down to the most promising people to go ahead to our virtual round. In Zoom calls of up to 10 models, Rhiannon and Maxine Griffiths met all of our entrants, asked them some questions about their modelling experience and goals, and put them through their paces with a virtual walk at home. We chatted with people from all around the UK and from all walks of life, and plenty of invaluable advice was dispensed! It was brutal to try to cut down the list, but we made it – just 40 of the models were invited to our photoshoot in Harringay. At T On the Green in Bruce Castle Park, we set up a shooting area that was distanced from other park-goers and, kitted out in masks, two London Runway photographers (Ian Clark and Mrityunjoy Mitra) snapped the final shots. Maxine put them through their paces on the catwalk, and Rhiannon captured videos – all assisted by our team members Amber Johnson, Alex Panek, Cicilia Brognoli, and Jessica Carvalho!
We wanted to challenge the models in all areas, so we asked each of them to complete specific tasks. With so many models to test, you can bet it was a hectic day! We got everyone signed in with temperature checks to keep us all safe, and then it was time to get started, with staggered arrival times meaning we could keep smaller groups running through each of our different challenge stations. Each model was asked to pose with Ian first, in a black and white outfit. Next they donned bright and beautiful colours for a celebratory pose with their bottles of Lemonaid, provided by our sponsor! They also posed with sunglasses provided by @bring_onthesun2, to bring out their inner divas. You can see shots from each of our challenges over these pages! After everyone had taken part in their photoshoots, Maxine had everyone walk for her again – this time in person and with the ability to see everything live and in sharp focus! The final challenge was to read a script for a short video to camera, as well as showing us some of their happy moves. You can spot these on our Instagram @londonrunwaymag, put together into montage videos by our own Fil Mazzarino! It was a fun day with a lot of great work put in, but when it came down to the wire, we had to make some extremely difficult choices. There are some very talented models in this group, but only ten of them could make it through to the final round. Well, okay, it was supposed to be ten. We sat down to decide with the intention of picking ten. But just like last year, we found it so hard to decide that we thought we’d leave a bit more of a decision in your capable hands! We’ve gone with a top twelve – six entrants in the womenswear category, and six in the menswear category. In alphabetical order only, they are…
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WOMENSWEAR 1. Adetola Olagbaju 2. Alison Cline-Williams 3. Dawn Gomersall 4. Kirsty Spence 5. Pariz Santos 6. Spirit Jansen
MENSWEAR 1. Faizz Mir 2. Flavio de Brito 3. Javier Flowers 4. Jonhoi Burnett 5. Pele Sengphom 6. Robert Keene
So, what happens next? You can see the final images for our top ten finalists over the coming pages. You’ll also find them on Instagram and Facebook, posted individually. We’ll be opening the vote to you, members of the public and our readers, to hit ‘like’ on the finalist that you’d love to see win. We’ll end up with one womenswear winner and one menswear winner, with two runners-up in each category, based on a combination of your votes with our judging scores. And we can tell you, it’s all very tight – there’s a lot to play for here! Last year’s winners really came down to the line, and the year before, we had such a close run on the public vote that the judge’s score tipped the winner over the line. This means that every single vote really counts!
LONDON RUNWAY The vote will close on the 20th August and you’ll be able to meet the winners in our next issue! They’ll be getting an exclusive cover shoot with us, help with their modelling career over the next year, and invaluable advice from Maxine via The Model Workshops to allow them to develop their skills. Over the coming weeks, be sure to check up on @londonrunwaymag, @photobyian, and @the_mj_studio to see more of the stunning shots which we couldn’t possibly fit in these pages. And don’t forget to check out @the_model_workshops to see what our judge Maxine is up to! A special thank you to @tonthegreen for their space, and to @bring_onthesun2 for lending us their sunglasses. Finally, a raise of the glass to @lemonaid_uk and @charitea_uk for sponsoring us – and keeping us hydrated on a hot shoot day!
Image by Mrityunjoy Mitra
Images by Ian Clark
Image by Mrityunjoy Mitra
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Images by Mrityunjoy Mitra
ADETOLA OLAGBAJU
ALISON CLINE-WILLIAMS
DAWN GOMERSALL
KIRSTY SPENCE
PARIZ SANTOS
SPIRIT JANSEN
FAIZZ MIR
FLAVIO DE BRITO
JAVIER FLOWERS
JONHOI BURNETT
PELE SENGPHOM
ROBERT KEENE
LONDON RUNWAY
AR U REAL?
THE RISE OF VIRTUAL CELEBRITIES Spanning from music to the fashion industry, Jessica Carvalho explores the increase in virtual celebrities, and whether the rise of this new form of star can be halted by its detrimental effects. Humans are curious by nature. With a mind that runs a mile a minute, it’s difficult to suppress the need to know more, see more, and do more; the last 15 months have served as nothing but proof of this, drawing our curiosity from the streets to our screens. Paired with unprecedented technological advances and Wi-Fi that could put a track star to shame, the trapdoor to the digital world and all it entails almost begs to be opened. Though, the intrigue for a more technologically advanced life is now bordering the boundary between real and fake - introducing virtual celebrities. If the concept of a virtual celebrity is new to you in any way, don’t be alarmed. But it appears they may be here to stay; the rise in virtual celebrities has been exponential in the past few years, with as many as 10,000 believed to be roaming the internet. The technology behind them is one that has been widely used in the film industry, actors donning suits covered with sensors to make these virtual personalities come to life. For example, meet Lu do Magalu, the most followed virtual celebrity of 2020, who has amassed almost 23 million followers across several social media platforms. She is a representation of popular Brazilian retail company Magazine Luiza and has served as a personification of the company for over a decade, where she does product reviews and other lifestyle-related content. The music industry is a sector that has been greatly impacted by virtual celebrities, one of the most popular
names being British band Gorillaz. The virtual four-piece band was created in 1998 by Damon Albarn and Jamie Hewlett and has been widely successful domestically and internationally. The band has since then collaborated with network operator O2 and footwear brand Converse, among others, and has been widely praised by critics for their use of the internet as a means of promotion at a time where this method was rarely used by fellow human music acts. This is far from the reality we live in nowadays; the internet has become indispensable in the bond between fan and celebrity. In Japan, virtual celebrities are rising so steadily some fear they’ll one day outshine human celebrities. The most popular is Kizuna AI, 6 million followers strong across Twitter, YouTube, TikTok, and Instagram. In appearance, she is a young girl with bows in her hair, but she has achieved more than most of her peers. She’s so popular in Japan that she’s already had her own concerts, TV cameos, and appeared in countless adverts.
debuted Eternity, K-pop’s first allvirtual girl group. The fashion industry is hot on the heels of the virtual celebrity trend, and Shudu is one to watch. With close to 220,000 followers on Instagram alone, the world’s first digital supermodel is a creation of British photographer Cameron-James Wilson. He stated in an interview that he aimed to celebrate beautiful, dark-skinned women and epitomise all the beauty he’d captured throughout his career with Shudu, who’s been featured in high fashion brand advertisements and even magazine covers. The virtual supermodel has been received so positively in the fashion industry that Cameron-James Wilson was contacted by fashion house Balmain, which commissioned more virtual celebrities from the photographer. Virtual celebrities seemed to have turned the heads of fashion houses over the past few years, and following in the footsteps of Shudu is Lil Miquela, a digital-influencer-turned-model.
Cover, a Japanese VTuber management company, said in a statement that virtual celebrities are attracting attention beyond Japan, with a “growing number of fans” across Asia, and the rest of the world. Similarly, virtual event company Cluster’s CEO believes virtual celebrities are to shape the next decades in the music industry, stating “music will be the key” for virtual celebrities to become more mainstream. Not so far away, South Korea has also recently debuted K-pop girl group Aespa, which features an additional four virtual members – the AI versions of the human members of the group. This was a breakthrough for SM entertainment, one of the biggest of the country, as this is also the first K-pop group with a virtual version of itself, which is a part of the lore regarding the group’s concept. Like Aespa, fellow entertainment company Pulse9 later
PAGE 20 Image credit: aespa
Image credit: aespa
Birthed on the tail end of April 2016, Miquela Sousa transcends what is typically expected from a virtual celebrity; she has voiced her opinions on LGBTQ+ rights and the Black Lives Matter movement on social media, and even released four songs on major streaming platforms. Previously, Miquela had been caught in some controversy regarding her authenticity, her social media comment sections filling with questions regarding whether she was real or not. In addition, her creators were rather ambiguous about whether Miquela was real or fake, and even when the latter was deduced later, it did nothing to slow her down. Miquela has since collaborated with supermodel Bella Hadid in a Calvin Klein campaign, and is the muse of Pat McGrath, becoming the first virtual celebrity to work with the make-up brand. It is undeniable that the impact of virtual celebrities is quickly reshaping not only fashion and music, but also the very definition of a celebrity. Beyond the brand deals and flashy concerts, it’s hard to come to terms with the fact that the personas we see are simply computer generated, and it’s interesting to observe how these have managed to infiltrate spaces that relied so much on actual people. It makes sense; why hunt for the perfect brand ambassador amidst a sea of influencers who come with their own pre-requirements when you can create your own, and perfectly encapsulate the essence of the brand? Furthermore, a virtual celebrity is far more adaptable, and can take any ‘form’, in accordance with the brand. However, it leaves one wondering. Both the music and fashion industries are already painfully competitive, with people grafting for years and perfecting their skills only to never get the recognition they deserve – why are we allowing technology to overtake us?
It all comes down to human intrigue, and its power in terms of engagement. The founder of Virtual Humans, Christopher Travers, mentioned in a statement that virtual celebrities and influencers share the same skillset as their human counterparts, “but with more control and engagement”: virtual celebrities are reported to have an engagement rate three times higher than that of human influencers. Futurism also plays a big part in the rise of virtual celebrities, as brands who opt for virtual ambassadors portray a modern and fun appearance to consumers, which is particularly popular with younger generations. In essence, a virtual celebrity hosts all the positive traits of a human celebrity; they never get tired, will always look flawless, and can’t ever be involved in any career-damaging scandals. These are all great, but they may also promote an image of the perfect human (both morally and physically) that is impossible to attain. For example, Karina, Winter, Giselle, and Ningning of Aespa make up only half of the group; the rest of the group is composed of their AI personas, which have been criticised for being oversexualised and conforming to unrealistic beauty standards. Fans have voiced their concerns for the health of the four girls also, as having such perfect versions of yourself presented and compared to you constantly is bound to give way to body image and self-confidence issues. Low self-esteem seems to be one of the most insidious pandemics we have faced throughout generations, but there is no denying that it has worsened over time as perfection has been engrained into society, alongside unrealistic beauty standards. Despite the technological and sociocultural impacts of virtual celebrities, watching them reach stardom whilst looking like the “ideal” version of a person may be
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detrimental to younger audiences; even more so should they strive to look like them when this is physical impossible. It isn’t a new concept - supermodels and other celebrities who fit the beauty standard have contributed to this before - but people can still understand that their job is to look a certain way. The increase of body size and appearance inclusivity over the past decade has also positively contributed to the self esteem of younger people, but the introduction of these digitised, flawless images of humanity to such a vulnerable age group raises the question of whether we are being benefitted or disadvantaged by virtual celebrities. Human opinions on virtual celebrities remain split, mainly due to the concept of just what can be considered real or fake on social media. Former CEO of TheAmplify, Justin Rezvani, said that our Instagram persona can also be boiled down to “a digital version of you”, and some even believe virtual celebrities may primarily become a creative outlet for some soon, with the focus taken away from digital growth. Conversely, some believe human talent is being displaced by technology, and see industries progressing in a competitive fashion, rather than using both to their full potential. Opinions aside, one thing remains certain; human curiosity knows no bounds. Only time will truly tell to which extent that is an advantage. To read more of Jessica’s work, visit her Instagram page @whatjesstypes
Image credit: lilmiquela
Wardrobe: All jackets by BODA SKINS @bodaskins Images via BODA SKINS
Hell For Leather
LONDON RUNWAY
REGAINING POWER THROUGH DRESSES This issue, Katie Abson discusses the history of dresses and their significance to our wardrobes today. Is there a better sensation than feeling the gentle breeze against your legs, or the swish of satin around your ankles while you walk down a cobbled street lit with sunset? Dresses are a wonderful way to express power in femininity, but it hasn’t always been so easy. Dresses have a somewhat complicated history, especially around women’s choice in wearing them. The beauty of living in this modernised age is just that – the choice is ours. But, not so long ago, women were dictated by laws formulated by men, including the clothes they wear. Dresses were not seen as a mode of expression, but a form of restriction and conformity. Throughout history, dresses served a multitude of purposes. They ranged from the functionality of the Ancient Greek toga, the light material essential for the hot weather, to the heavier and more ornate fabric in early medieval times, the intricacy of the design devised to indicate wealth. Dresses weren't always seen as women’s clothing, either. Men and women made use of the practicality of a loose dress in Ancient Greece for hundreds of years. It wasn’t until around 200BC that history began to restrict women’s clothing. In Ancient Rome, married women were made to wear a floor-length gown called a ‘stola’, a distinguishable trait between the ‘owned’ and ‘available’ woman. A law soon passed that forbade women from wearing a toga, which men wore, and so the line between men and women was formally drawn.
Fast-forward a few thousand years, and the line had barely shifted. In 1890, the UK published pictures and diagrams depicting the length of what a suitable skirt should be depending on the age of the woman. It was declared proper that women must be covered from chin to ankle, optional only between dresses and skirts. In 1942, the USA also introduced ‘Regulation L85’, declaring all skirts must be made to fall 17 inches above the floor. The notion of a woman wearing trousers was deemed ‘unfeminine’ and ‘inappropriate’ and was strictly a masculine piece of clothing. Although, this was not always the case. Just as men once wore togas, classics scholars have discovered accounts of Ancient Amazonians riding into battle wearing trousers, most likely for their practicality and protection when fighting. And yet, society pressed women into adjusting the way they dress and act as dictated by the opposite sex, and we were thus forced into becoming mere morsels of our former ancestors. In the early 20th century, the very notion of a woman slipping into a pair of trousers was cause for psychological unrest, and earlier in the 18th and 19th centuries, cause for police arrest. The women’s rights movement shifted the foundations of polite society as women took a stand in the fight against patriarchal oppression. Many brave women sported trousers and bloomers in protest. Young designer Coco Chanel created pathways for women in the fashion industry as she incorporated tailored jackets and trousers for women into her collections. A radical change
Images via Unsplash
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came about in World War II when women adopted trousers in the workplaces left vacant by men who fought in the war. After the war, though controversy was still present, the idea of a woman in trousers became less and less shocking. And, as we know, the rest is history. So, how do we find empowerment in the clothing that once restricted us? It's quite simple; we revel in the choice we have. Today, a dress signifies much more than an average piece of clothing. It can inspire confidence in a woman’s identity, the way she carries herself, and her overall self-image. Different styles and shapes are endless when it comes to a dress; maxi dresses for a sunset beach walk, bodycon dresses for an evening at the bar, skater dresses for everyday activities. The list goes on. Dresses also have a huge significance for the LGBTQ+ community. Wearing a dress could be the difference between a source of unhappiness or discovering one's identity for young transgender people. Whether that be finding huge relief when donning a dress, or discovering one isn’t so comfortable wearing a piece classified as ‘feminine’. There is no question that there is unlimited power behind this piece of clothing. Of course, there is still so much discourse surrounding the subject too, especially when it comes to dress codes for women in the workplace. Although we have come a very long way since the turn of the century, restrictions are still being placed on us regarding what we wear in a professional environment. Many employers continue to enforce sexist dress codes, and not complying with the rules can lead to disciplinary action or, in worst cases, dismissal. The good news is: we can fight back. Women have the option to seek help from the Equality Advisory and Support Service in the UK if they feel the dress code is directly discriminating against them.
The changes women have fought for throughout history have paved the path for our generation to establish even more change, including creating a space where we have the right to choose what we wear. Choice is one of the most powerful tools we possess, something that is still lacking for so many women and races across the world. When we look at our wardrobes and make the choice to select a dress, we must remember that it is no longer an item that is deemed as ‘feminine’ in a negative light, but a piece that reminds us of the fight women have endured to allow us to make that choice today. It is simply a divine piece of clothing, whether you prefer to wear one or not. Because that is simply the point; the choice is ours, and ours alone. If you enjoyed this article, you can follow more of Katie’s work on Twitter via @katieawriter.
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: EMANUELA Name: Emanuela Vasilevska Age: 21 Location: London Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? Two years.
What would surprise people to know about you? I have been a dancer and a singer, and a basketball and volleyball team member. What are your modelling ambitions? To spread positivity and to be a source of inspiration!
Where are you from originally? Latvia.
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Ksenija Anisimova @ksenijamua Photographer: Mihaela Rogova @photographermihaela Fashion Designer: Marina Apanasovic @m.a.rrime Model: Emanuela Vasilevska @e.vme
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: HAYDEN Name: Hayden Anderson Age: 15 Location: Alberta, Canada Agency: Chan International Model and Talent AND Patti Falconer Agency How long have you been modelling for? One year Where are you from originally? I was born in Alberta, Canada Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?
I can recite the lines to dozens of movie scenes word for word. What would surprise people to know about you? That I was an active member on my school's Model UN debate team. What are your modelling ambitions? I’m currently working on growing my portfolio and have been collaborating on some unique creative shoots. I would love to walk in some runway shows and possibly travel if the opportunity arises.
Photographer: Myron Macapagal @myronmacapagal Model: Hayden Anderson at Patti Falconer Agency, Chan International @hayden_.anderson
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: ESZTER Name: Eszter Égető Age: 15 Location: Hungary Agency: Free Faces How long have you been modelling for? 1 year Where are you from originally? Hungary Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? In my free time I draw, paint, make and edit videos, programming. What would surprise people to know
about you? My environment and peers had a hard time accepting that I was a little different, unfortunately they hurt me a lot. I want to show, prove that autistic people like me can be successful in the life of any of you. I love photography because I can always be different while staying on my own. Others only see the finished images, there is no prejudice. The photographers I’ve worked with so far especially love getting out of line. What are your modelling ambitions? I want to appear in famous magazines, getting to know interesting people.
Photographers: Timár Judit @timarjudit.photography; S.e. Photo @s.e._photo; Mta Photo Studio @mtaphoto_studio; Gergely Nagy @n.o.r.a.photography; Angela Basics @angelartfoto Makeup Artist: Égető Erika @erikaegeto Model: Eszter Égető Albatrosz @albatrosz_modell
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: KRISTIAN Name: Kristian Comer Age: 40 (It’s my birthday 7/14!) Location: New York Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I just started this year. It was my creative outlet from my graduate workload Where are you from originally? I am an UK, US citizen, and a Dame of Sealand. I currently reside in Rockland County, New York. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Yes, I do stage combat. It’s a lot of fun running around with swords and
shields on stage and playing with fake blood. What would surprise people to know about you? I can speak basic Japanese and a little Chinese. I learned the Japanese in high school and then continued into college and was lucky enough to visit both countries and try my skills out on the locals. It was an experience I’ll never forget. It was so amazing! What are your modelling ambitions? I model for fun and I just love meeting new and awesome people along the way, and thank you so much for supporting my work. I also hope that I can inspire someone with their love of art as I have been by others.
Props Supporter: James Comer Dedicated to: Brittany Battista Model/Photographer/Creative Director: Kristian Comer @kc_krispie Dress: La Femme En Noir
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ALEXANDRA KIEFFER UNEXPECTED FORMS OF BEAUTY I have always used photography as a mean of sharing the way I want to see things around me. Although I have always had a preference to photograph landscapes and nature, small details are often drawn to my attention, hence the variety when it comes to depth of field. I like to focus the attention to specific details on a picture, often enlightening what's sometimes left unseen through the bare eye thanks to specific light, lines, composition, or a short depth of field. Travelling places has been a great way to feed my eyes new inspirations, even though I also strongly believe that everyday life is filled with, sometimes unexpected, interesting subjects. Photographer: Alexandra Kieffer @alex__kfr
PORTFOLIO PIECE
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London Runway Virtual Festival 2021 9th - 15th August 2021 Join us for the London Runway Virtual Festival
2021!
A full week of events to entertain you
Join us LIVE on Instagram
@
!
londonrunwaymag
Monday 9th - Festival Opener Tuesday 10th - Modelling Wednesday 11th - Photography Thursday 12th - Music Friday 13th - Culture and Causes Saturday 14th - London Runway Day Sunday 15th - Closing Ceremony
:
Featuring
Live performances -Demonstrations - Q&A sessions - Interviews - Panel talks - Sales - Exclusive discounts and offers for viewers - Behind the scenes at LR HQ - Quizzes and competitions - and more!
Model: Hilary Hernandez at @mtm_chicago @_hilary.hernandez Photographer/Retoucher: Yulia German @_yulia_german_ Makeup Artist: Ardak Barlan @ardak.mua Wardrobe Stylist: Veronika Lemle @nika_lemle
Hi-Lar-Y
Hilary wears: Dress - Jamemme; Scarf - Awol; Bag - Touchless; Earring - Colour Addict Jewellery; Ring - Solomeina
Hilary wears: Top - Bereal wear; Jacket - Cplusseries; Shorts - Common parts; Shoes - Cplusseries; Necklace - Slate Jewelry
Hilary wears: Suit blazer, pants - Catou; Swimsuit - Flores de Melo; Hat - Rene Mantilla
Hilary wears: Hoodie - Bereal wear; Cardigan - Lola Tara; Top, shorts - Getadivo; Shoes - Steve Madden
Hilary wears: Dress - Jamemme; Scarf - Awol; Bag - Touchless; Earring - Colour Addict Jewellery; Shoes - Steve Madden; Ring - Solomeina
Hilary wears: Pants - Lola Tara; Top - 2madison; Turtleneck - Kate Barton; Earring - Callista by Vinita
Hilary wears: Suit blazer, pants - Catou; Swimsuit - Flores de Melo; Hat - Rene Mantilla
Hilary wears: Hoodie - Bereal wear; Cardigan - Lola Tara; Top, shorts - Getadivo; Shoes - Steve Madden
Hilary wears: Dress - Elmdawy NY; Kimono - MB3; Hat - Zara; Pants - Bereal wear; Shoes - Perfidem
Hilary wears: Pants - Lola Tara; Top - 2madison; Turtleneck - Kate Barton; Earring - Callista by Vinita
LONDON RUNWAY
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK IS BACK Cicilia presents Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) 2021, which happened from the 12th to the 18th of June, one of the most anticipated events by young fashion students on the world scene.
The event is organised by the Graduate Fashion Foundation (GFF), a charity founded precisely 30 years ago to bridge the gap between university and employment. The organisation's mission is to promote the meeting of graduates and the fashion industry by showcasing the best talents. GFW is not the only activity of this charity. Still, the essential commitment to students' support is constant and full of exciting activities. Mentorship programmes and tailored advice are the basis for exchanging opinion, knowledge, and experience. The goal is also to keep the fashion system constantly updated on the new generations and their opinions. The charity was founded in 1991 by Jess Banks CBE, Vanessa Denza MBE, and John Walford to unite promising UK fashion talent with the rest of the world. On its 25th anniversary, the organisation announced its lifetime patrons, namely Christopher Bailey MBE, Victoria Beckham OBE, Nick Knight OBE, and Dame Vivienne Westwood. These people are key names in the fashion industry. Thanks to their talent and dedication, they brought significant prestige to the nation. For example, Christopher Bailey was the first Gold Award winner, while Stella McCartney's career was launched thanks to the GFF. Moreover, the foundation has 20 Global Ambassadors who promote its activities and capture interesting news worldwide.
Photography by Cicilia Brognoli
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The success of GFF speaks for itself if you look at the goals and the numbers achieved. The charity supported more than 1000,000 graduates and undergraduates with a staggering total of 613 catwalk shows walked by 18,390 models. In the past, guest stars of the GFW catwalks included a dog and three goldfish, who left the audience speechless. Although the pandemic cancelled GFW 2020, this edition, albeit digital, had grit to sell. Among the significant issues addressed by the GFF are well-being, sustainability, and diversity, as the fashion industry is increasingly attentive to the environment and the well-being of producers and consumers. Around 40 of the most prestigious fashion schools in the world compete for the 20 awards available. The GFW is open to fashion design, styling, creative direction, photography, marketing, and textile students, and it’s held thanks to the sponsorship of prestigious brands including ASOS, Tik Tok, and L'Oréal. The 2021 edition was held in Coal Drops Yard, a new and vibrant area near King's Cross, London. The atmosphere was electrifying, with visitors wearing eyecatching outfits wandering around the site ready to take selfies with all the most creative GFW extravaganzas. GFW spread across multiple exhibition spaces; some well-known brands located in Coal Drops Yard hosted mannequins with graduate outfits. A temporary showroom hosted the creations of around 200 young designers from UK and non-UK universities. Sketchbooks were displayed along with outfits, and it was great to see the creative process that lead to garment creation. Unfortunately, due to travel restrictions, only some London-based students attended the event in person, while all the other students shipped their outfits. I fortunately had the chance to meet and chat with three University of East London graduates and have a fashion chat with them.
Photography by Cicilia Brognoli
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LONDON RUNWAY
AINA VILA @SPLENDID_CHOAS_LONDON What's the biggest challenge you found during the pandemic? A - The closure of fashion labs, sewing everything at home, was challenging! What inspired you for this collection? A - I took inspiration from Dadaism kitsch and chaos. This artistic movement is characterised by destruction, boldness and irrationality. I mixed its conceptualisation to functionality, taking inspiration from my wardrobe. From harmony to destruction, this is how I like to describe my outfits. Do you have any plans for the future? Would you like to open your business? A - I don't have any plans yet, for sure next week I'll take part in the Tik Tok Competition. In a week, I will create an outfit that will be sent to influencers. If you had to wear just one colour all summer, what would it be?
Photography by Pietro Recchia
A- Lime green! It's the colour of the season, and I fell in love with it when a friend bought a total lime-green dress. I first thought it was too bold, then I loved it.
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LIBERTY VICTORIA @LIBERTYVICTORIA What's the biggest challenge you found during the pandemic? L- I couldn't access university labs, and I had to collect fabrics online without seeing them in person. I had a hard time finding the rights textiles and getting them shipped to me. I re-purposed football memorabilia, as I think there's a ridiculous amount of fabric waste in the fashion industry. What inspired you for this collection? L- Football has always been very important to me. I used to watch it with my dad when I was a child. My brother and I wore football kits all the time. I like the fact that re- purposed fabrics have a story.
AMINAT ODUNEWU @AMINATO_DESIGN
Do you have any plans for the future? Would you like to open your business?
What's the biggest challenge you found during the pandemic?
L- In September, I'll start a MA in Menswear at the University of Westminster. Then, maybe in the future, I'll open my business.
A - I had to sew in my living room, but mostly I was not with my mates. I find inspiration being together with other creative minds.
If you had to wear just one colour all summer, what would it be?
What inspired you for this collection? A - I took inspiration from sportswear, Japanese streetwear, and princesses. My collection embodies the whimsical imagination of children. I love childrenswear princess-style prints and beads.
L- Red! Because it stands out and has so many shades and meanings.
Photography by Cicilia Brognoli
Do you have any plans for the future? Would you like to open your business? A- I want to get some more experience with a job. I don't have a dream company, though. Then I would like to open my business. If you had to wear just one colour all summer, what would it be? A- Of course, pink, this is my everyday mood. I don't even realise I wear something pink every day.
After a year off, this GFW was a breath of fresh creativity and youth and Coal Drops Yard was the perfect place to show creative outfits. Don't forget to look at the Graduate Fashion Foundation to discover more talented graduates and of course check out these Instagram profiles. You can read more of Cicilia’s articles on ciciliabrognoli.com
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LONDON RUNWAY Enjoy this small preview of the Graduate Fashion Week catwalk with designs by Liberty Victoria. Next issue, we'll be sharing more images of graduate collections from not just UEL, but also Sheffield Hallam, Manchester, Kingston, Bath, and more!
Photography by Shaun James Cox Photography
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SAMSUNG KX GRADUATE FASHION WEEK SHOWCASE
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK TALKS Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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CARNABY MUSIC FESTIVAL
Images by Fil Mazzarino
TAMAR KEBURIA Wardrobe Designer: Tamar Keburia @tamarkeburia Photographer: Kassandra @vizerskaya_official Images via Dyelog PR @dyelogpr
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE
Meadows Bellflower Top.White £145.00
ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli
Simeon Ferrar No More Heroes Denim Maxi Skirt £230.00
Ahuwalia Patrick short sleeve cotton shirt £375.00
Sophie Pittom Hand Embroidered Face Mask £25.00
Beshlie McKelvie Huichol Beaded Bracelet:Grape £50.00
Oliver Spencer Judo Trousers Evering Green £189.00
Stella McCartney Women's Stella #stansmith adidas £235.00
Raeburn Air Brake Short Orange £225.00
Raeburn Fashioned From Nature Book £25.00
Wen Pan Oversized Asymmetric T-Shirt. Yellow Floral £440.00 Good News Opal Fringe Low Tops. Tie Dye £130.00
Rogue Matilda Love Bug. Silver Leather Trainer £169.00
Cawley Hilda Lithuanian Linen Shorts. Chartreuse £295.00
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Ahluwalia Indigo Denim Joy Jacket £465.00
LUSTRE
Model: Tanja Smith @tasha.tanya Fashion Designer: Staci Bernstein @spellcasteraggiev Photographer: Noah Russell @noahrussellstudio
WHY UNISEX JEWELLERY IS HAVING ITS MOMENT This week, Thomas Woods explores the rise of unisex jewellery and its bypassing of traditional gender constructs, giving you some top picks on where to buy these products.
This type of jewellery often embraces off-the-wall and outlandish styles of charms, with many smaller designers allowing the customer to personalise their jewellery with different images, colours, and lettering. They seem to match with almost anything and the personalisation aspect of the product allows this to stretch outfits further, becoming a very wise investment for people on a lower budget. Despite the range of choice consumers sometimes hold over their piece’s design, this type of jewellery and its materials are frequently associated with feminine imagery, as the wider historical media presentation of these pieces more often shows them on women. I myself purchased a personalised charm necklace from a small UK business, being told by its designer that I was the first male customer she had designed a piece for, underlining how there is still room for this market to grow into the male fashion space. The male jewellery market is still dominated by gold and silver Cuban
into more outlandish colours and styles whilst still feeling comfortable and confident in their outfit.
Via Instagram/champagnepapi
In the midst of clothing shops being closed in this last year, the pandemic has prompted many fashion-lovers around the world to be more inventive when it comes to attaining their desired outfits, with many turning to personalised homemade pieces in order to fill out their wardrobes. One of the most prominent examples of this trend is the emergence of charm necklaces and bracelets, seen via the Instagram of leading LA-based jewellery brand, Ian Charms.
link chains, jewel encrusted bracelets, as well as similarly plain bangles. In saying this, this last year has seen an exponential rise in mainstream popularity for this type of accessory, particularly within celebrity culture. Many high-profile male celebrities have made charm jewellery the musthave accessory, bypassing the restrictive bounds of gendered clothing by pairing these pieces with accessible and widely worn male clothing, blowing open the men’s jewellery market.
WHO’S WEARING WHAT? DRAKE Arguably being the most popular musician of the last decade, Aubrey Grahams - better known as Drake has paved the way for a more emotional vein to be introduced into rap music over the course of his young career. His ability to embrace the emotive side of his masculinity has always been a stand-out feature of his music, and this continues with the way he styles himself. As seen here, Drake coolly pairs a snug, all-black suit with a vibrant pink, green, and red charm necklace with a large ‘A’ placed in the middle, either for his own name or potentially representing a nod to his young son, Adonis. Either way, his smart attire alongside his charm necklace combines a sleek and traditionally masculine base colour with bright splashes of pink, green, and red, adding a playful tone to his outfit. Drake’s incorporation of a smart outfit with this piece sets the tone for men who want to branch out
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JADEN SMITH Jaden Smith, the son of actor Will Smith, is seen pairing his smiley face charm necklace with many other alternate pieces, such as several pearl necklaces as well as more traditional silver chains. Smith layering his charm necklace with a similarly gender-defying pearl necklace extends the styling possibilities that charmed jewellery provides, again showing a different dynamic to the accessory. As a more conservative approach, this pairing of the charm necklace with a silver chain may be a more comfortable look for a man who is looking to ease his way into wearing unisex jewellery, with Smith’s casual black t-shirt showing that not much is needed to make these pieces pop.
LONDON RUNWAY
The donning of these pieces by prominent male celebrities bridges the gap between gendered clothing and accessories on a wider scale, creating a unisex alternative to traditional jewellery that allows men to push the boundaries of gendered clothing without feeling uncomfortable in themselves. This can only be a good thing for the future of men’s fashion.
Via Instagram/c.syresmith
ANWAR HADID Belonging to the famous family of models, Anwar Hadid is a celebrity who is very in-touch with the fashion world. As seen here, Hadid is pictured sporting an Ian Charms rainbow bead bracelet with a matching pearled necklace that is decorated with a mushroom and an eight-ball charm. Sporting this with a casual grey vest, Hadid shows how well the pieces can work acting as a stand-alone, letting the colours of the beads do the talking. Again, these types of accessories are allowing men to express themselves in a way that is low-key and accessible, appealing to a wider demographic of the male market by fitting into a variety of traditionally masculine outfits, such as Drake’s allblack suit and Hadid’s casual grey vest. Via Instagram/iancharms]
While it is interesting to see how bigname celebrities are styling these pieces, what might be a more burning desire is finding out exactly where they are getting these accessories from. Worry not, this article has a list of some top places that you can expect to find quality charm jewellery for all price ranges.
BEST PLACES TO BUY #3: Ian Charms Where to buy: iancharms.com Price: £££ Arguably being the current most trending charm jewellery store on the market, Ian Charms provides an array of high-quality pieces, such as bracelets, necklaces, and anklets. Their popularity has exploded over this last year as many of their pieces were seen on high profile celebrities like singer Dua Lipa, her boyfriend Anwar Hadid, as well as fellow musician Madison Beer. However, this high-level exposure has led to a rise in price as many of their necklaces average at around £113, plus shipping from the U.S. The high quality of the product makes the price range slightly more justifiable, but if you are just getting started in unisex and charm jewellery, I would recommend seeing the cheaper alternatives below.
you can directly speak to, making it ideal when looking for homemade charm jewellery. While the process of looking for pieces is slightly more laborious, it has a range of different sellers who provide different designs and charms, meaning you can really discover the specifics of what you like.
Sellers like @leyyyahh and @beaubele have hundreds of positive reviews and provide all types of personalised pieces, with prices usually staying between £10 and £20. While the quality may be slightly lower than businesses at the higher end, it is worth trying these pieces out so that you can begin to understand what charms, colours, and styles you like most! #1: Chunky Charmz Where to buy: @chunky_charmz (Instagram) Price: ££ Despite being a relatively new business, Chunky Charmz has had a sharp upward trajectory since emerging in this last year, currently boasting 1200 Instagram followers. Providing customers with a personalised one-on-one service, the business provides pre-made charm necklaces and bracelets as well as providing the option to adapt them and create your own! The pricing of the products is in the mid-range, with a personalised piece usually coming in at around £35 to £40, and the pre-made items typically costing around £30. Having bought from here myself, I can say that the quality of the products is fantastic and the service is immaculate. If you want a balance of quality and price, this is the place to buy from. Check out their Instagram to see what they have to offer!
#2: Depop Where to buy: depop.com or the Depop app Price: £ As a website, Depop is great for finding bargains and individual sellers who
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If you enjoyed this article you can follow more of Thomas’s work on Twitter via @iamthomaswoods_
PRINCESS DIARIES Vivienne Monique, Stephany Iona & Alexia Brasov
Princess Diaries Photoshooting launched the upcoming new kid models who aspire to become runway models in the future. They used some of the best gowns of the major fashion designers in House of Ikons - Be Unique Be You, Adrianna Ostrowska, Mitch Desunia, and Korn Taylor Fashion Designs.
Models: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique, Stephany Ioana @stephanyioana, Alexia Brasov Designers: Lil Bratz Boutique, Be Unique Be You @be_uniquebeyou, Anne Wilkinson, Adrianna Ostrowska, Mitch Desunia @iammitchdesunia, and Korn Taylor @korn_taylor Accessories Designer: Gucci @gucci, Air Jordan, Burberry @Burberry, Diesel, Calvin Klein @calvinklein, Armani Exchange @armaniexchange, Tommy Sports Photos: Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle HMUA: Ninah Aguila, Liliana Lehadus, Diana Brasov
Vivienne wears: Calvin Klein, Diesel Jeans, Be Unique Be You, Lil Bratz Boutique; Stephany wears: Lil Bratz Boutique, Gucci; Alexia wears: Air Jordan, Burberry
Alexia wears: Air Jordan, Tommy Sports
Alexia wears: Air Jordan, Armani Exchange
Vivienne wears: Lil Bratz Boutique, Gucci
Stephany wears: Korn Taylor
Vivienne wears: Adrianna Ostrowska
Vivienne wears: Adrianna Ostrowska
Vivienne wears: Be Unique Be You, Gucci, Lil Bratz Boutique
Stephany wears: Korn Taylor
Stephany wears: Adrianna Ostrowska
INTERVIEW The fashion design graduate, in conversation with writer Suhani Lotlikar, shares details of her collection and vision for the future – including the sexual abuse expereince which inspired the designs. Originally from London, Bryony Knight is a 2021 fashion design graduate from Arts University Bournemouth. She is here to walk us through the development stages of her brand ‘Amplifly’. With her unapologetic vision to redefine beauty standards, Bryony is passionate about her culture and the power of fashion. Her graduate collection ‘NOmeansNO’ embodies all that she hopes the industry will work towards. I had the opportunity to virtually sit down with Bryony to talk about her inspiration, brand identity, future plans, and much more. Bryony had just handed in her final work and attended Graduate Fashion Week. Here’s what she had to say…
NO MEANS NO … On graduating:
“I am feeling amazing, so happy to have completed my collection. I’m eagerly looking forward to going back home soon. I mean, I love this place, but I am looking forward to what London has to offer. Three years at the uni have been such a process and now it is time to go out and explore the industry. I am looking forward to getting some industry experience.” … About the inspiration for her collection:
“The inspiration for my collection was the concept of ‘no means no’. That is the title of the collection. So, NOmeansNO is a collection created to empower women, to give them the strength to say no and to be heard. Their voices should be heard loud and clear. That is something I wanted to portray throughout my collection. So I wanted to allow myself to use my creativity to empower other women in a similar position to me.
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WE DEMAND IT “This year I am personally going through a sexual abuse case myself which is going to court. And this is very traumatic to me, this happened to me halfway through my final year. As I was creating my collection, I thought I really, really needed to do something about this problem. It's like a pandemic, the men are not listening. I really need to do something about it. So that's why I came up with the idea of this collection. So, halfway through the year I switched up my plan. And I made sure I hit my goals which was to create a collection which would empower other women in a situation similar to myself. I was very lucky to have a lot of support but I am very aware that there are a lot of women out there who don't. And I feel like having an armour, a coat of armour to feel strong to vulnerable women such as myself.”
… On the process of designing the prints and choosing fabrics “All the prints for the collection were created by myself, digitally. I used fabrics such as elastane, Lycra, and other stretch fabrics. I used Portland, it’s like denim. I wanted to use these fabrics to create a collection that adapted to all body types. I wanted to show the curves and appreciate them. So I used all of these to print digitally onto. I used Photoshop and InDesign to create these files. I wanted to boldly put out there a conversation starter about situations in which ‘no means no’ applies. Many of us have experienced moments where we wanted to say no means no, but it's difficult. And yes, for women especially, it happens a lot, but also for other people, we all experience these moments. I just wanted to put it out there with the print.”
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LONDON RUNWAY … On the purpose of her first collection
… On her plans for the future
… On advice for the next generation
“The real aim of my collection was to create a change in this world and for women to feel like they have a voice, a collective voice that would be listened to. I realise that art is something that may be listened to easier than words. People love to visualize and understand things that way rather than listening to words. So I thought that would be a great way to communicate what I felt. As you can see the photoshoot turned out to be good as well. My friends helped and supported me a lot. Initially I had many people telling me, friends and family too, that I should not do this collection. But I decided no, I need to do it as this is something I believe in. So I pushed myself and did it anyway.”
“Plans for the future are to continue to expand my brand, continue to grow. I plan to travel so that I can explore other cultures and problems around the world. So I can discuss them through the means of fashion. I plan to get more experience so that I can push myself to get to heights and look at other issues around the world and to communication, talk about them through the means of fashion. There are a couple brands I would like to work with to gain some experience.”
“Stay true to yourself. Don’t allow anyone to tell you that your art isn’t beautiful. If it’s beautiful to you, that is enough. That’s true art to me.” Graduate designers such as Bryony Knight, willing to take on the challenge of redefining and realising the purpose of fashion itself, are a wave to look out for.
… On the role of inclusivity and representation in her collection “You can see in the photographs that the collection was made for different types of women; different body types and sizes. Even different backgrounds and colours. It includes all kinds of women, even transwomen. I wanted to create something that many women could relate to. The idea was to create a brand at retail level so it is accessible to the masses with the craftsmanship of a luxury brand. My friends helped me a lot in the process. It has helped me feel more confident and strong about my own self too.” … On her vision for Amplifly “I want to keep designing but I also want to gain some experience. I want to bring in my vision for the future which really should have been the present, to the brand. Some things such as size inclusivity and breaking stereotypes, challenging euro-centric beauty standards should be done. That is what I want to do with the brand. I want to keep representing and designing for all kinds of women.”
You can read more of Suhani’s work on suhani17.wordpress.com and on Instagram by following @suhani_lotlikar
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CHABS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra
Born Anxious
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Dear Princess
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DGC Styles
Dis is me
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Ethnicroyals
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Madd Bunny
Simran Fashion
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LONDON RUNWAY
DANIEL HANSON DESIGN Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
With temperatures averaging the low- to mid-20s well into August, here are some fun hats to block out that summer heat. All from ethical, sustainable, and small businesses with a unique flair and message!
Aries March 21 - April 20
Komodo’s Bucky Reversible Unisex Hat in Bali-Red will keep the Aries cool while they burn with style! Also available in Bali-green, the hats are machine washable and made from 100% GOTS certified organic cotton. “Why can’t we look great whilst fighting for the world we live in?!”
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Unrecorded’s Bucket Hat comes in blue, black, and khaki. Embroidered with their brand name logo, their hats are made from an organic cotton twill that is GOTS certified. “Unrecorded weaves together style and sustainability. Timeless designs constructed with the future in mind.”
Gemini May 22- June 21
Based in Portsmouth, By Megan Crosby’s clothing are “for women who love fun fashion, but hate the impact it has on the planet.” Their Printed Floppy Sun Hat comes in a variety of fun-loving patterns digitally printed for any bubbly Gemini’s occasions!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22 Lovers of storytelling pieces, Cancers will love this Jamela Boater Hat, with its nostalgic chin tie and rustic charm. By Jamela Boutique, their hats were designed with hijab wearers in mind for something that allowed people of all religions and ethnicities to just “Be You”.
Leo July 23- August 21 As magnetic as the sun, Leos donning this Patent Bucket Hat by Wolf & gypsy Vintage will draw all eyes towards them! “Wolf & Gypsy Vintage Brighton, handpicked wearable pieces from around the world.”
Virgo August 22- September 23 Native Youth’s Cardamon Bucket Hat is a reversible hat in Virgo's signature green colour. They can easily switch from sophisticated to casual with the two available styles: gingham check or solid khaki. “Conceived from the intent to create socially relevant menswear that showcased the eccentricities of British design with an expanded design direction.”
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LONDON RUNWAY
Libra
September 24- October 23
The Greta Hat in Colourblock Multi is the perfect, pastel addition to the Libra’s wardrobe. With every PAPER London item made, one kilogram of ocean-bound plastic recovered! “Look Good, Do Good, Feel Good”
Scorpio
October 24- November 22
Available in both red and black gingham, the Tilda Wide Brim Bucket Hat is made from 100% surplus cotton. By Ilk and Ernie, the hat is perfect for Scorpios to beat the summer heat! “We are fashion forward, without compromising on ethics.”
Sagittarius
November 23- December 22
The Festival Hat by Tentree, this multiseasonal hat is the perfect all-around piece for the constantly moving Sagittarius needing to pack light! In 100% recycled wool with a cork band detailing. “EarthFirst is our commitment to making choices in a world where the planet and its people come first, always.”
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Capricorns are elegant and tenacious beings, masters of multi-tasking. The floral prints of this White Printed Wrap Maxi Dress by Birdsong “are to encourage a quiet confidence in the wearer.” Fueled by this intention, Capricorns will be even more productive than ever.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Gorgeously stunning, this Summer Print Flowy Maxi Dress by Cossac is ideal for the hot months to come! The wave-like design matches the gracefulness of Aquarius while the tie straps and side pockets provide versatility and comfort they need.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
By Beaumont Organic, the Arya-Paige Linen Dress in meadow print features cross-over straps and side pockets. The maxi length and ruffle tiered silhouette offers the freedom of movement and comfort. Pisceans donning this dress will be like water lilies, their symbolic flowers, floating above the surface.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers
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LONDON RUNWAY
DSKLONDON
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
THE LONDON SEVEN COLLECTIVE Photography by Fil Mazzarino
FOLK TALES Hair Stylist: Lenara Lanskaya @lenara_lanskaya Model: Galdina Margarita @galdinamargo Photographer: Rina Shed @rina.shed Fashion Designer: Natalya Goryachkovskaya @goryachkovskaya Makeup Artist: Daria Parfisyuk @dary.marykay
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HOW MUCH IS AN ARTS DEGREE WORTH? 20-year-old art school dropout, Celia Ellis, reflects upon her decision to drop out of university, and offers her perspective on the importance of higher education for aspiring creatives.
The prospect of going into the work world straight out of school may seem scary and, perhaps art school gives one time to work out what area of the industry they want to get into through exploring multiple disciplines.
Arts degrees have long been labelled as ‘useless’ at university. Whilst this is a view I emphatically disagree with, I do believe higher education is too often seen as the ‘correct’ route to take for those wanting to pursue a successful career within the arts industry. Creativity is subjective and, although some artists thrive in that educational environment, some individuals need an alternative environment for that creativity to flourish.
However, if you are set in your passion and confident in what you want to do with your life it could be argued: Why bother spending your time and money getting a degree when you could be spending that time and money on getting real-life, hands-on experience in the industry in which you want to work, learning through trial and error and making useful contacts?
I made the decision to drop out of Leeds Arts University in January, a decision I had grappled with for months. Upon dropping out, I started my own small fashion brand, aptly named ‘art school dropout’. Through ‘art school dropout’, I wanted to reclaim the label ‘dropout’ and exemplify the fact that dropping out is not synonymous with failure. I do not regret my decision and I feel fortunate that I had the self-confidence to know it was not the place for me. A three-year art degree doesn’t make you a great artist; it supports you in understanding and expressing your creativity, and teaches you skills to assist you in your creative practice. However, in a world full of self-taught and self-proclaimed artists, it goes to show that if the prescriptive nature of a course structure inhibits rather than encourages your creativity, racking up £27,000 in debt is not the only way to get a foot in the art world. Artists succeed in their craft through studying, experimenting and through “stealing” with the eyes as Picasso once stated; this knowledge can be acquired in a multitude of different ways including, but not limited to, completing a degree.
One thing that I struggled to accept in my time studying Fine Art was other artists critiquing my work, and having to adhere to a mark scheme and tick all the boxes to feel I had succeeded. I felt no one should have the right to tell me what’s right and what's wrong in a subject that is so very personal and subjective. I am now able to create art that I want to make, when I want to make it, and this freedom and control has rekindled my passion for the arts. I am in no way disregarding the benefits of art school for those who work well with that structure, yet I want to use my experience to make people more open to considering other options before settling on a route you may feel you are expected to take. On completion of my A-Levels I went on to study for a Foundation Diploma in Art and Design at Leeds Arts University. Whilst I did love my year there, although cut short due to COVID-19, looking back on it I believe it was, in fact, the city and the experiences that had made me so happy as opposed to the course. At that time, it seemed to me the obvious next step to take would be to go on to study the BA Fine Art degree, confident I would love the next three years as much as I had the first.
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The first couple of months of my degree were a chaotic mix of remote and inperson learning which is, of course, unsettling, and definitely contributed to my decision to withdraw from my course in January. However, whilst they undoubtedly contributed, it was not the obstacles COVID-19 presented me with, but the time it gave me to explore my opportunities that ultimately impacted my decision to drop out. Living through a pandemic has made us all have to think outside of the box and it's made me see more things as opportunities in my life and realise I did not need an arts degree to be an artist. With so much more time on my hands and the strong desire I felt to continue to express myself creatively, I discovered a new passion in fashion design through my business designing and selling silk scarves. This is something I would never have discovered had I stuck with my course. When deciding on one's own path, confidence is key. Once you have made your decision you need to commit to it fully or you won't reap the benefits. If you are confident in the choices you make it is a good sign they are the right ones for you.
The main piece of advice I would give to prospective arts students is to do your research. Research courses, traditional universities, specialist art schools but, most importantly, look into what else you could do apart from going down the university route, as there are so many incredible resources and opportunities available to us that you may not even realise are there. I have come across a multitude of useful platforms that have proved really beneficial to me in the creation and promotion of my business. LinkedIn is an incredible platform; at first I doubted this would ever be a useful resource in relation to the work I'm interested in, but I was surprised by the amount of job opportunities and internships there were, both paid and unpaid, available to those looking to get into fashion or design. Similarly, Internships.com is a great platform for finding internships throughout the UK. Short courses are also a great way to work out if an art degree is for you. There are so many short courses that look great on your CV, in a wide range of subjects, some even being free. These can be really useful in giving you a taste of the industry or degree you’re looking into. These courses can be completed in a variety of different ways and time frames to suit you and your commitments and can be found abroad in Italy, in the UK or even remotely alongside a job. You can find online short courses through mooc.org, FutureLearn and The Open University. Further afield, the British Institute of Florence offers courses across multiple disciplines within the arts or, for more specialist training, Charles H. Cecil Studios in Florence teaches The Atelier Tradition through their traditional fine art courses.
Utilise your contacts. Talk to friends, family, or teachers within the industry; anything you can do to best inform the decisions you make. For those wanting to work in the arts industry, it is never one size fits all. Everyone’s needs are different, and, in the art world, it pays off to be different. It is encouraged to stand out from the crowd. Therefore, I find it maddening that so many, including myself, have felt the need to complete a degree in an artistic subject in order to be reputable or employable within the arts industry. Whilst an art degree is not ‘useless’ by any means, it is not compulsory to succeed within your chosen discipline. University is only ‘useless’ if you’re not getting anything out of it. A degree doesn't come with a guarantee, you get out what you put into it. However, as long as you are motivated, hardworking, and imaginative you will find your way within the arts industry, degree or no degree. The main thing is to do what you love and make choices that make you happy, rather than anyone else, as unhappiness will hinder your creativity. For me, the fear of being a ‘dropout’ was very real. The negative associations I assumed with that label often discouraged me from making the decision and going through with it. I think life in lockdown aided me in building the confidence I needed to drop out and in overcoming that fear of the unknown. The choices I made over the course of the pandemic will have long-lasting impacts; not only on the path my life takes, but also on my outlook on life. I see this to be the silver lining of the pandemic, it has made me question my situation and understand better what it is that makes me happy.
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I now try to focus on finding opportunities that make me happy as opposed to sticking with something that I’m not passionate about, in the unlikely event that that may change with time. To see the work Celia has created since dropping out of Leeds Arts University, visit artschooldropout.online or follow @artschooldropout.1 on Instagram. All images Celia's own.
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
If you could only wear one colour for the rest of your life, what would you choose?
&
“I would wear monochrome for the rest of my life in clothes and neon pink nails” - Suzanne, Nail tech and Product tester
“Cerulean Blue”
- Doris Catalan, Fashion Model
“PINK”
“What a difficult question! First considered blue, I am going for every shade of white, which i think will look good both winters and summers” -Catherine Marche, Goldsmith
“RED”
“Can I have all the neutral colours?”
- Tink Lockett, Photographer
- Rahab Inghalwa, Fashion Model “Purple, perfect for an executive look when im on the piano and first choice colour when I get to begin my sports coaching brand TriDentity” - Robert Chesters, Artist
- Elena McFannels, Mature Model
“THE RICHEST, DEEPEST, PURPLIEST PINK”
“Green” - Nafisa Kiani, Postgraduate student at SOAS and business support manager for education at UK Parliment
- Diane Goldie, Artist
“Red or Emerald Green”
“GOLD”
- Alison Williams, Fashion Model
“Black - basically my wardrobe now”
Bate Nate H, Music Artist
“Blue”
- Shay, Model and Photographer
- Ian Clark, Photographer
“Blue”
“BEIGE”
- Sylvia Mac, Public Figure “Cream/off white” - Cheyanne Grieg-Andrews, Writer
“Maybe I’d wear a nude colour, so everyone would think I was naked all the time. It’d be really funny. I’d be walking down the street and people would be like “Whaaaat?”!”
- Yana Khazova, Photographer
“Black” - Leyre Gomez, Fashion Model
“Black with a touch of glitter” - Noelia Dominguez Millan, Artist
– Benedict Cork, singer-songwriter
“I think I would wear grey” - Suhani Lotlikar, Writer
“Dusty/antique pink” - Ade Olagnaju, Model and Accountant
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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT LONDON SEVEN COLLECTIVE BY FIL MAZZARINO
