AJOY SAHU INTERVIEW . MODEL COACH ADVICE . UNDERRATED SNEAKER BUYS . DES O CONNORS MODELS
PAUL COSTELLOE . BORA AKSU . EDWARD CRUTCHLEY . MARK FAST . TIGER OF SWEDEN . AADNEVIK . LFW
ISSUE 66 27TH SEPTEMBER 2021
THE LFW ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Ruth Croft, Thomas Woods Advertising inquiries - Eve Payton - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Brechó Babado Fashion, Negah Anna, Edien Black, Wilson Vitorino, Latta Pathak, Karolina Nowak, Janete Zenlinda, Tatiana Porembova Bridal, Hali London, Tarz London, Shoes by Larisa, Saint Beth, Honey V Tiaras Jayne Elizabeth Millinery, Crystal Crafts Bouquets, Lahore Karahi Tooting, Alissa Schrag, Dekaya Hewlett, Lois J Elise, Юлия Джемова, Ariadna Golubeva, Vera Lipunova, Artem Sigaev, Saveliy Molchanov, Габриэль Оганян, Sofia Somova, Zarina And Marina Дарья Шевченко, Eva Cass, Josephine Landry, Alison Leitao, Emma Lynch, Anne Marie Costantino, Julia McDonough, Charis Michelsen, Ivie Akira, Ayla Imogen, Lacey Rae, Lara Jane, Scarlett, Stephany Ioana, Tylda, Vivienne Monique, Ysabella Kristeen, Anne Wilkinson, Be Unique Be You, Ram Eagle, Elena Berezhnova, Maria Konakova, Anastasia Gorishna, Enplanafro, Sarah Lily, Liudka, Ozoda Muminova, Kirsty Spence, Pawel Majewski, Sandra Salamon, Klaudia Kotlarz, Katarzyna Kriger, Nikolina Holuk, Jagoda Biegala, Victoria Tadej, Marta Chrostowska, Anna Guzak, Nell Malczuk Special thanks to Ajoy Sahu, Dyelog PR, and Maxine Griffiths Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene
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CONTENTS
1 VISUALS
1 Africa Fashion Awards: Kande Collection
112
La Dama Lingerie
114
Miss Polski UK & Ireland
116
Bora Aksu
6
Edward Crutchley
10
Atelier Tammam
12
Paul Costello Presentation
14 16
An Exploration into Our Emotional Attachment to Clothes
4
No Flow Do Babad (Editorial) Two Weddings (Cover Editorial)
21
Interview: Ajoy Sahu
15
Sirens (Editorial)
34
30
New Faces
43
Walk Talk: The Ins and Outs of Model Training with Maxine Griffiths
Portfolio Piece: Red Children
49
Mark Fast
55
Tiger of Sweden
59
Aadnevik
62 66
Alexander McQueen Romantic Darkness
67
Style (Conscious) Guide: Inspired by LFW
Underated Sneakers That You Need for the Upcoming Season
81
Gowns N' Roses - Be Unique Be You 70
Des O'Connors Live Catwalk Auditions
93
Your Style Horoscope
104
WORDS
51 Beauty Expert, Author, and Actress, Charis Michelsen Shares How to Utilise the Hottest Runway Fashion and Makeup Trends to Maximise your Physical Appeal
U R Not Ur Emotions (Editorial)
83
Beauty Veil (Editorial)
89
Des O'Connors
94 102
The Most Iconic Supermodels of All Time
118
Best of Both Boutique London Accessory Week
108
The Big Question
121
s ' r o t i d E r e t t le LFW is back, back, back again! And this time, we actually mean it. When we say we were excited to get back to going to shows, it’s like saying the Pope might believe in God a little bit. In other words, it’s just about the understatement of the year.
every season, there are still things going on all the time. That’s part of the fun of living in London as a fashion fan! Make sure to check those out: they might not enjoy the same level of publicity and hype, but small designers still have a lot to say.
And if you doubted it at all, you might not have seen the images from the recent Met Gala. Everyone’s been talking about AOC wearing THAT ‘tax the rich’ dress – proof, if any was needed, that fashion can be as political as any creative discipline.
We have some live coverage from events this issue, and we’ll bring you even more in our next issue as well – because there’s just too much goodness to restrict it to the page count we’re allowed! That includes designer interviews and lots of gorgeous photographs from our in-house team, Fil, Ian, and MJ.
Talking of having a lot to say, this issue we explore the history of a dearly departed designer whose collections always reflected how he felt about the world around him: Alexander McQueen. You might wonder why we spend so much time looking into the history of fashion, when there's so much newness happening all the time...
We’ve got some of the latest shows from before fashion week for you as well: even though the eyes of the world may turn on our capital for a few days
But, as we’ll see, fashion is much more than a way of dressing – it’s a way to interface with the world, expressing yourself and your ideals.
We’ve plenty of inspiring looks served up for you this issue, so get stuck in and start fantasising about your new post-lockdown wardrobe (and let’s see if we really ARE postlockdown… but that’s a whole other topic!). As you do, consider what your clothes can say to the world – and remember that if you want to wear your heart on your sleeve, there’s no better way than to insist on clothing that is both fashionable and sustainable. Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
AN EXPLORATION INTO OUR EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT TO CLOTHES This issue, Katie Abson explores our attachment to clothes and why letting them go is so hard. We all have that one item of clothing that we just can’t let go of, no matter how old, damaged, or dated. Even if we know we’ll never wear it again – we don’t have the heart to say goodbye. Perhaps it’s the shirt we wore on our first day of university. Or maybe it’s an ex’s hoodie that still smells faintly of their aftershave. We hold on to christening dresses, wedding gowns, leaver’s day jumpers, and, theoretically, we’ll never wear these pieces again. Some of them might not even fit us anymore. So, why do we hold on to them? Why do we emotionally attach ourselves to clothes? Why are they so important to us? We constantly revamp our wardrobes to suit our evolving style and latest trends, but most of us simply don’t have the storage space to keep every item of clothing we purchase throughout the course of our lives. The dreaded clear-out is a must, particularly with the changing seasons. It can be a great way to sell clothes or donate to charity and to clear space for our next fashion season. Although the process can be freeing and therapeutic, it can equally be exhausting. Selecting items to donate or throw away can be painful, particularly when we feel a certain attachment to them. Memories, good and bad, are woven into the fabric of our clothes, and parting with a pair of beloved jeans bought on holiday half a decade ago can trigger an upsetting response, despite how worn-out they are. Because, to some people, it feels like saying goodbye to that memory or
that part of their lives. When in reality, they are just a pair of jeans that are taking up space. This response, although somewhat seemingly irrational, is psychologically very natural. Studies have shown that our emotional attachment to clothes develops early in our childhood. As early as the age of two, we may not understand the concept of ownership, but we certainly feel it. This evolves into attachment, and emotions such as jealousy and rage can be felt in babies when that object is taken away or given to someone else. In our teenage years, possessions begin to expand into a sense of self and can help boost self-esteem when confidence begins to dwindle. As adults, clothing can become an extension of ourselves as we begin to establish our personal style and the way we present ourselves. Loss of such items that we associate with our sense of self can ignite pain and unhappiness, our attachment turning into an obsession with finding what is lost. We are psychologically wired to claim objects as our own, later establishing meaning behind what belongs to us. The same goes for holding onto items once belonging to another person. If that person is no longer around or accessible to us, it can feel as though we are keeping part of that person with us in the present day. Our senses are tuned into clothing, such as touch and smell, and being able to physically touch something previously owned by someone we loved can be the closest thing we still have to them. We feel connected to them in some
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LONDON RUNWAY
sort of way. When you really think about it, it’s perfectly normal to want to keep possession of such beloved items. Family heirlooms that pass through generations have associations to people we have never met formally in this lifetime, but serve to provide us with a connection to previous family members. These heirlooms may come from a time of war, struggle, love or different countries. Textiles from a certain time period and clothing made by brands that no longer exist make us cherish the item more, as we possess something that cannot be purchased anywhere else in the world. Particularly when a piece of clothing or jewellery is handmade, such as a woollen jumper knitted by a great-aunt or grandparent, the sentimentality for that object grows deeply within us. Materials that age well, such as leather, appeal to us more than a newly bought item. We search for such items in
vintage stores and charity shops as they are more aesthetically pleasing to us. A piece of clothing can go from something you throw on casually in the morning to an item you wish to cherish by the end of the day, depending on the events that follow. An old summer dress can turn into the dress you get engaged in. A satin fitted blazer can become the item you land your dream job in. The safekeeping of these clothes is significant to us as they serve as reminders of a monumental time in our lives, and consequently develop into our ‘lucky’ clothes. One item of clothing can hold many meanings and associations with wonderful memories. We hold onto them as a reminder of that time, but also in the hope of repeating similar experiences when we wear them again. There is a multitude of reasons why we find it hard to rid ourselves of clothing. Memories are as powerful as the
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physical object itself, especially when the memory is heightened by vivid emotions. There is a certain beauty in the long-term possession of an item enveloped with meaning and memory recognised exclusively by the owner, and the stories that come along with it. But be warned – there is a difference between emotional attachment and using it as an excuse to hoard clothes! At one point or another, we must give in. We can’t keep every piece of clothing we own forever. And the truth is, someone might need it more. So, if the dreaded clear-out is in your schedule for winter, keep an open mind when rummaging through your wardrobe. And if something truly pains you to let it go – keep it safe. You’ll be reminded of happy memories when you find it once again at the back of your wardrobe in years to come. Images via Pexels and Unsplash
BORA AKSU Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
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ATELIER TAMMAM Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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PAUL COSTELLOE PRESENTATION
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Photography by Ian Clark
INTERVIEW Amber Johnson spoke to Ajoy Sahu during their LFW presentation to discover the inspiration behind their latest shoe collection.
LR: Hello! It's so lovely to meet you, thank you for having me. So what was the inspiration behind the collection and the whole show? Ajoy Sahu: Actually, the whole brand is based on the poppies. [The fitting and construction] are all inspired by the poppy seeds, you know, the seeds inside the poppy pod when they dry out. And when you see the construction shape, it's kind of like a poppy silhouette with the seed in it. So this is how we start designing the shoe construction. With the kitten heels, we always try to keep the seeds shape and also in the flat. And then slowly we evolve the whole collection into more fluid line ideas. So, it's based on the original construction to evolve into all different types of fluid lines to make very interesting patterns on the foot. Then we got all these very special custom made fittings. The poppy seeds are the most important for our brand. We’re kind of trying to keep the whole brand's identity into the construction, the same concepts. Hopefully, in the future with the brand in the market a lot more, even though people don't know our name, they can still recognise the shape. LR: You need that element that stands out that makes you different from everyone else, that when you see that you say "That's that brand!'.
LR: But it makes it all worth it though? Ajoy Sahu: Yeah. And luckily, we found a really cool New York showroom to represent the brand worldwide as well. So it's really cool. I'm really excited. LR: Was there anything that you would have changed or would have done differently with the collection? Or are you happy with the outcome? Which really stressed me out. And also the factory finished, like, a week before, because we made everything in China. And I have a production team in China to help to control the development and the production. And of course, because of COVID, I can't really go back to China. So I have to do limitless video meetings. I get up really early every day to work with China time. So, to just really push the whole collection, because normally, during the development period, I'll be in China to develop the whole collection with the team. Because of COVID I didn't go back for two years. We really broke through lots of challenges.
Ajoy Sahu: I'm really happy with the outcome. But of course, if I can be there to develop the production, it would be really great. LR: I think it's the perfectionist, you want to be able to see every single element of the design and the construction. Ajoy Sahu: ...and feel the material and choose the materials as well.
Ajoy Sahu: Yeah, so this is the DNA and also very unique for the brand. LR: Did you have any difficulties during the design process of the whole collection? Ajoy Sahu: Yes, definitely. Because it's during COVID. So actually, all the collections just arrived yesterday.
AJOY SAHU
NO FLOW DO BABAD
Wardrobe - Brechó Babado Fashion @brecho.babadofashion Styling, model - Negah Anna @negahanna Hair Stylist, model - Edien Black @edienblack Photographer - Wilson Vitorino @wilsonvitorino Accessories - EME Sunglasses @emesunglasses
Two Weddings
Photographer: Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio MUAH: Latta Pathak @lattapathakmuah
Models: Karolina Nowak @karola3623_; Janete Zelinda @curlylioness White Bridal gowns: Tatiana Porembova Bridal @tatianaporembovabridal Red Bridal dress: Hali London @hali.hlondon; Tarz London @tarz_london Shoes: Shoes by Larisa @shoesbylarisa Jewellery: Saint Beth @saintbethofficial2; Honey V Tiaras @honeyvtiaras; Jayne Elizabeth Millinery @jayne.Elizabeth.Millinery Crafts Bouquets and Candle: Crystal Crafts Bouquets @crystalcrafts_bouquets Location - Lahore Karahi Tooting @lahorekarahitooting
LONDON RUNWAY
WALK TALK: THE INS AND OUTS OF MODEL TRAINING WITH MAXINE GRIFFITHS Jessica Carvalho explores the highs and lows of model training, and just what it takes to walk the walk, led by model coach expert Maxine.
Fashion Week unearths a plethora of things within me. Some of my best outfits, a finetuned eye for upcoming trends, and the staggering realisation that there is a lot more to the modelling industry than coordinated footfalls. It’s often too easy to discredit models and label their craft as simply walking, but there is an entire blueprint to the art. So, if you too want to brush up on your modelling knowledge, I bring you Maxine Griffiths: creative director, events coordinator, model coach and all-around cool girl who’ll give you a taste of the world of model training. How would you define The Model Workshops and model training to someone who isn't familiar with the modelling industry? The Model Workshops was created initially to give the opportunity to aspiring models who wanted to get into the industry of catwalk. As you know that doesn't always work for everybody, and when I was trying to get into the industry, I found that height was a big problem. I was around people that were already in the industry, and I just sat under their wing and just learned as much as I could about walking, and because I was a dancer as well, I mastered how to hold my posture. Getting into the industry and doing the training, I devised the workshops to educate. To give the opportunity to those who may not have it or may not even think that they can get onto a runway. The opportunities I was given once I mastered my walk are one of the reasons why I started the workshops. To put it simply, The Model Workshops is there to help aspiring models to understand their walk and their posture.
How long have you been training models and how was The Model Workshops founded? About 20 years, comfortably. I've been training models for shows, events, and doing lots of things with them, getting them through [events]. The Model Workshops was founded based on a company that was called The Platform Artist of The Stage, and it was a place where people could come in and use the stage for work, hobby, interests, or just to gain experience. After that, I looked at all of the elements of what was on offer when I started in the industry - anything to do it, drama, music. Back then, it wasn't deemed as a profession, but lo and behold; 35 to 40 years later, people actually have this as a career! We've got actors, influencers, singers, dancers doing not just the stuff that they love but also what they’re talented at. I formulated the workshops thinking they need to be open to a lot of people who want to understand the stage, platforms, and runway for an educational purpose. Not enticing you with the glitz and glam, but giving you realistic experience, realistic situations that may occur, learning what the runway is, learning terminologies, learning speech, and the right words. You might not know what a portfolio is, what does it mean to have a deck - a lot of girls and guys, they don't actually know, especially if they're new into the industry! I see the workshops as a safe space that you can work within, get experience, get hands on [help] from the professionals I collaborate with, so you can get to the next level if you want to.
I was going to say that it's really nice to have a safe space, especially for starting models. That’s what I’m about, safe spaces. Having safe having spaces that you
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can go into with no experience or as much experience, and you can share knowledge knowing that everybody will be up to the same level, and nobody will know more than someone else. Otherwise, you'd come in thinking that you know it all and not actually assume you're coming to learn; you’re coming to take away something that you can implement practically and realistically into your next step on your journey within the industry. Would you say model training is “one size fits all” or is it a is a tailored experience important? A tailored experience for me is important, very tailored. That's one of the elements that we have; our more intense workshops like Runway Ready, Own It for Yourself, I came up with the content that goes within it. No two people walk the same. No two models walk the same. I've just recently finished working with Des O'Connor on his live catwalk auditions, and I found that even then, we had so many women from different walks of life, some who never graced the catwalk before or did anything like that prior. [The workshops are] about allowing them to understand how to walk confidently, how to own a room when you go into it, how to put on a pair of 4’5-inch heels and be able to stay in them for longer than an hour. To be able to get your heels out and express yourself because, as women, we all like a pair of shoes. We’ve gotten so used to wearing trainers and chilling out that people don't dress up anymore. With The Model Workshops, I have a tailormade package for every individual that comes through the door. I take my time, I look at them, and we just work it through; I guarantee that anybody that attends one of the workshops will definitely come out walking a lot taller than they came in. Do you think there are a lot of misconceptions about the hard work that goes into model training both for the trainer and the trainee? Not just model training, anything! If you want to be a scientist, somebody's going to have to teach you the ins and outs and the mechanics of it. If you want to become a doctor, you will go to the necessary colleges, complete the training.
The day and age that we live in now is so fast paced that someone can present photos on Instagram, get a few likes, and then suddenly, they think based on their looks or great figure, that's going to lead them to the job. A lot of girls don’t like to do the training because they think they've got enough experience, but in certain parts of the industry, you really have to put the hard work in. Everything needs teachers, none of us know everything, and I had to sit under some really good gurus and teachers to even be where I am today.
With that said, have you witnessed an opinion change at the workshops? For example, someone who came in expecting it to be useless, but leaving with a completely different opinion? Hell yeah! People have come in thinking this was really simple, and then they’d say “I never knew walking could be so hard”, and I'm thinking yes! Some people have it naturally, but everybody can always do with a brush up. It's like most things in life, but look at any model whatsoever; look at what they do behind the scenes.
certain shows”. You can get testimonials - even this season, a young lady hadn’t walked in two years since we've been in lockdown and I got to witness her walk, and it's just nice to see when the girls get to another level. I can actually tell the difference of those that had been trained. Those taking the time to be coached and those that have taken time to be trained, coached, and mentored through their journey until they get to a point where they think “I've taken all the help I could, I'm ready to go to the next stage, and I can do that on my own”. How did being trained shape your career?
They have eating and fitness regimes, they have things that they do to make sure that they stay on top of their game. You're not always going to see it, and it's not always posted - though I think more recently you kind of see what a lot of the high end [models] are doing behind the scenes - even down to their make-up. Some girls don’t know how to do their make-up, and you should know how to do the basics. I sometimes just feel that a lot of those stepping into the industries of fashion, music, and entertainment don't feel they have to put any work, that it’s just based on looks and likes. But, disappointment, heartbreak, it’s all part of the experience. Like most fields of work, it doesn’t sound like a linear growth at all. Tears, lots of tears. Lots of disappointment, lots of rejection. When you get that kind of rejection, you think “oh, I don't want to do this anymore, I can't do it”, but there's always somebody somewhere that can see potential, it just depends on how hard you work. There are models that I've met, and I thought “three to four months with me and by the time I’m finished with you, I'll have you walking
I knew I wanted to do performing arts, and I took my time and wanted to learn about everything; from production, lighting, to set design and sound. I just wanted to learn it all, some people only like one element of the fashion shows and it’s the one that we usually see. But there's so much that goes on behind the scenes, like with London Fashion Week, what you see in the magazines, on music videos; there are such great people behind the scenes really putting their hard work in, and some of the time they don’t even get paid their rates. I find it quite sad because some of these companies have the budget to help people but choose not to at all, even though these people are indispensable to the industry. Take me through a day of training; what can be expected from the moment training with you begins, right until the end? I’d be giving away my secrets! If it's all day, we have courses which are broken down into series. They range from Handle Your Heels, which is one of my favourites because it is for women and men, with no restrictions on height, gender, or race - just bring your heels and make sure they’re over four inches. There's something about when you put your shoes on before you leave the house and you just feel dressed, you feel complete. That's one of the other reasons why I created Handle Your Heels, because I just feel there is a level of empowerment that comes with wearing a pair of heels, your shoes are fantastic, your bag, your clothing.
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When I was developing the course, I looked at how I how I wanted to feel if I was coming along, what is the journey I want to take people on, so at the end of the three and a half hours that we were together, you leave with something you can implement into the rest of your journey. I also have Feel Like a Woman, Walk Like a Boss. That's more for empowering women to be bosses in their own right, but also maintain their morals, have integrity, know that you're strong enough to do it but also weak enough to stay feminine at the same time. I don’t mean this in a derogative way, but female empowerment sometimes is very “I can do all this by myself”, but the truth is that need your community. No man is an island, as my parents always said.
Apart from getting these models further in their career, what is the most fulfilling part of model training for you? Their success is my success. After the training session with me, having the coaching and the mentoring, I know that when they step into an arena, they are walking comfortably and walking proud knowing that they’ve got this, so that means I've been successful. Though training is very good for finetuning skills, do you think it is an essential step towards success or can it be skipped (due to financial issues, lack of time etc.)? Anything that anybody wants out of life, you’ll make time for. We can always use the excuse of “I don't have the time” or “financially, I can't”, and I understand it with coming out of a lockdown into a new normal, but if you want to be as good as you can be, or you want to be the best at what you are doing, you will make time. It will then determine your commitment, level of experience, professionalism, and everything else that comes with the industry. What are some things that models trained by you went on to do? Magazines, videos, large Fashion Week shows in Paris, Milan, New York. Since we had the Black Lives Matter movement, as a British-born black woman, I feel we have a lot more visibility we didn't have before. I'm actually seeing people in adverts, doing things and I'm thinking “Yep, remember you when you came”, and I’m genuinely very happy and excited to see where it goes from here. Just being part of what happened in the past two years and part of the Windrush generation as well, watching the work that my parents put in all those years ago so that we could have a say; it's amazing to witness people that have gone on and on to be better, be greater and have the time of their life on the runway of life. The doors that don’t open, you kick them open!
Do you have any words of encouragement for models hoping to get into training? Come and see me! To date, I don’t know of any other woman that is doing what I do; training is an integral part of success in this industry, and often I see a lot of flaws as a consultant myself. The big agencies can only take a certain number of models of colour, models with ginger hair; training will ensure that they see you as someone worth their while, and someone worth representing them. Training will get your foot in the door. So, should you itch for a heaped spoonful of female empowerment with a sprinkle of first-class discipline, let me know. I know just who to call. You can find more of Jessica’s work on her Instagram @whatjesstypes. Follow Maxine on Instagram @the_model_workshops for castings, advice, and news about upcoming sessions.
Sirens
Accessory Designer/Other/Fashion Designer/Retoucher/Photographer: Eva Cass @evamaedesigns Models: Josephine Landry @josie.landry; Alison Leitao @alileitao; Emma Lynch @emma.lynch Assistant: Anne Marie Costantino @anniecostaa21 Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist/Photographer: Julia McDonough @mcdonoughjulia All wardrobe by Eva Cass Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, jewellery - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.
Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Emma wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, and concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded, hand-dyed suit - Eva Cass
Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: ALISSA Name: Alissa Schrag Age: 19 Location: Switzerland/Zurich Agency: Freelance (Muse of Marti) Agent: Christoph Marti
this talent and can no longer let my fingers from brushes. When painting I can give free rein to my creativity. Therefore, I also like modelling - I am a very artistic person
How long have you been modelling for? My "career" as a model started at the beginning of the year. I was contacted by various photographers for shoots via Instagram and then had the opportunity to work with Robert Ramseier in Switzerland. Now I have about 5 photo shoots which I can list as experience - but there are many great projects planned. Being in front of the camera has always been a big dream of mine.
What would surprise people to know about you? I am a very determined and focused person. When I set my mind on something, I want to achieve it. Whether it's modelling or my passion of drawing where I can work without problems 7 hours at a time to get the right result. In addition, I am someone who can talk well.
Where are you from originally? I grew up and was born in beautiful Switzerland in the middle of Europe. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Besides modelling, painting is one of my great passions. I have discovered
What are your modelling ambitions? My goal would be to have a range. Since one month I am the muse of Christoph Marti - the Swiss photographer - and I want to work out a way with him to become better known. The next steps are certainly magazine publications that will come in the next few months and my dreams are to be a cover photo on Vogue or on big ads.
Studio: Studio 1 Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti Model: Alissa @chupxcabra Wardrobe Stylist: Tanja Busé Alissa wears: Diesel; The Kooples; Dolce & Gabbana
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: DEKAYA Name: Dekaya Hewlett Age: 19 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Agency: Pama Models
party trick? My unusual talent is being myself, that simple quality isn’t normalized in today’s society.
How long have you been modelling for? I’ve been modeling for 2 months.
What would surprise people to know about you? People will be surprised to know I graduated high school at 16 at the top of my class.
Where are you from originally? I’m originally from Huntsville, Alabama. Do you have an unusual talent or
What are your modelling ambitions? I’m very ambitious about being in Vogue one day.
Hair Stylist: Pretty Dolls Collection @prettydolls.collection Makeup Artist: Makemiup @makemiup Model: Dekaya Hewlett at Pama Models @xjunodkaayy_ Photographer: Pama Models @pamamodels
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: LOIS Name: Lois J Elise Age: 29 Location: London Agency: Unique Models London How long have you been modelling for? 3 years Where are you from originally? Windsor, UK Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?
I can speak Japanese! I have studied the language since I was 13. What would surprise people to know about you? I have a PhD in Japanese cinema and fashion history, and am also a qualified passenger boat captain. What are your modelling ambitions? I want my modelling to inspire others to enjoy fashion and to feel comfortable in their own skin - I am a passionate body positivity advocate.
Lois wears: Headband - France Luxe; Dress - Vixen by Micheline Pitt; Sunglasses - Gucci; Watch - Fitbit; Scarf on bag, silver ring and pearls True Vintage Ootd; Pearl ring - Ray Makes Things; Bag - Thrifted
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RED CHILDREN It is important for me to fall in love with heroes during photography, otherwise you can't get sincere shots. I like to photograph children and old people both are most open and do not seek to pose. In my works, I strive to show what is always with us, but at the same time, it is closed and not given importance - hugs, family values, belonging to culture, children's games and memories.
Wardrobe Stylist: Юлия Джемова @julia_jam__ Models: Ariadna Golubeva at Mint Models Russia @arish_goly; Vera Lipunova @lipunovavera; Artem Sigaev @artem_sigaev; Saveliy Molchanov @come.on.savva; Габриэль Оганян @gabriellife26; Sofia Somova @sofia_somova_; Zarina And Marina @goldentwins.13 Photographer: Дарья Шевченко @chuda.photo
portfolio piece
LONDON RUNWAY
BEAUTY EXPERT, AUTHOR, AND ACTRESS CHARIS MICHELSEN SHARES HOW TO UTILIZE THE HOTTEST RUNWAY FASHION AND MAKEUP TRENDS TO MAXIMIZE YOUR PHYSICAL APPEAL
Ah, the runway show experience — inspirational, on-point street style outside of show venues, the veritable hyper-stylish elite clocking fellow stars, the active buzz of top hair and makeup artists behind-the-scenes as gorgeous creatures sip champagne and pick at delicacies while being painted and coiffed, the hush as the lights shift, the music pumps, cameras flash, and the thrilling future of what could change closets, requests at salons, and contents of makeup bags is revealed. For many years, this was the runway show experience, until things changed and created an opportunity to creatively rethink what a runway show could be. Even when formats changed and digital shows became commonplace, the passionate vision for forecasting the future of fashion and beauty did not. Designers, those fine artists who hang their art on the human canvas, reliably refuse to compromise showcasing their creations to the max— thank God. However, after the show, their visions should be translated into what is suitable for each individual to ensure that physical appeal is maximized. Understanding what inspires trends, such as those from past decades, can give great insight into how to best creatively utilise them to enhance physical appeal; one can and should cherry pick or twist elements of a trend so it can be personalised. In a review of current trends, the nineties are making a reappearance but with unique and modern twists. In the 1990s, grunge, glamour, and minimalism collided head-on, and just as during the 1960s, when the spirit of anything goes was the practiced belief, the 1990s employed a similar attitude, especially when it came to selfexpression, individuality, and “just being who you are.”
Big lips were in, and lip liner encircled the outer perimeter of the lips to help them appear larger. A more subdued and neutral colour palette became standard as “the natural look” came into style. Eyeliner and eye colours were soft and subtle. Skin went from being matte-textured to more natural and shiny, with shiny giving way to glittery, funky, and fun everything. “Heroin chic” and the “waif-look” were brought in by model Kate Moss, and emulated, playing a big part in the decade. Several cosmetic companies answered the call for the need for more funky makeup and nail colours. Small breasts gave way to all sizes of breasts being in, and a hint of the looks from the 1930s, 1950s, and 1960s made their appearance during the decade.
Another decade that is trending, for the obvious reason, is the twenties. In the 1920s, short skirts, short hair, and rebellion were in. Wearing makeup was taboo before then; however, by the 1920s, no one fashionable left home without wearing it.
Pale skin was in, and raspberry or orange-hued rouge toned down with facial powder was worn on the cheeks. The eyes and eyelashes were heavily defined with dark eye makeup which was used on the lower eyelash line and eyelids, as was turquoise or green. The famous cupid’s bow-shaped lips, which were permanently pursed in a “kiss”, inspired by the actress Clara Bow, were drawn on the lips in reds, deep reds, brown-reds, plum, oranges,
LONDON RUNWAY DRESS: Jil Sander Silk Dress In Style RN. 104642 - CA 34767 BELT: Dior Black Belt NAILS: Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro In Baby Love MAKEUP: EYES: Dior Backstage - Custom Eye Palette, Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer In 920/Black Orchid, Milk Makeup KUSH High Volumizing Mascara EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm LIPS: Chanel Le Crayon Gloss Sheer Lip Colouring Pencil In 54 Clementine, Bobbi Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip Color In Pink, Bobbi Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip Color In Brown
rose, and raspberry in matte-textures. These products would often be soapbased and dry out the lips. Liquid rouge defined the lip shape, like an early lip liner, and lip colour filled in the lips. Eyebrows were drawn on in thin, dark, arched, elongated, and downward-sloped thin or odd shapes denoting emotional expression. Fashion hero Coco Chanel was a powerful influence in the 1920s and ushered in the healthy look of a tan, amongst other style-changing trends. Orange makeup mimicked the look of a tan, and legs and smaller breasts were in. Besides knowing the history behind a trend, to pull from it what personally resonates and inspires, physical attributes, such as skin undertone, facial features, and their balance, as well as personal style are also important to examine to know how to best use a trend to one’s advantage. To determine your facial attributes, view the videos DISCOVER YOUR FACE SHAPE, ACHIEVE MAXIMUM PHYSICAL APPEAL USING FACIAL DIVISIONS, and others on the CHARIS MICHELSEN YouTube channel. For example, if a trending colour does not work well for your skin’s undertone and you want to wear it, try a version of that colour that better suits you. If orange is trending, and your skin’s undertone is cool, try wearing red-orange or red instead of orange. If bright lip colours are trending and you look better in darker lip colours, try mixing a favorite darker colour with a bright colour that works well with your skin’s undertone. This goes for the placement of cosmetics as well. If you have closespaced eyes and it is trending to encircle the eyes with eyeliner, bypass applying the eyeliner to the inner upper and lower third of your eyes or only apply light colours of eyeliner to this area. There is a science to looking one’s best, which was perfected through the world’s first Universal Beauty Standard System which was used to create the illustrated and comprehensive beauty books Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup and Grooming For Men: From Dirty to polished. These books instruct on how to look your personal best by
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using easy-to-follow cosmetic techniques and offering original tips, such as the timeless “four-point rule” to ensure your maximum physical appeal is achieved no matter what is trending on the runway. The following is an excerpt about the “four-point rule” from Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup:
5: Busy patterns of clothing or clothing that contains embellishments or ornate details, such as multiple zippers, ruffles, etc. 6: Articles of clothing that are revealing. 7: Shoes, clothing, and/or accessories in bold “statement” colours, such as red, etc.
THE FOUR-POINT RULE: Count each “point of interest” as one point.
8: Accessories in general, such as hats, bracelets, etc. MAKEUP:
NOTE: You can choose to wear fewer “points of interest” than four but not more than four if you do not want to look overstated. If garments of the same colour are worn together as if they are one continuous piece, their point total would equal one. For example, if you wear boots, pants, and a top in the same colour of bright orange, where there are no breaks in colour, where you do not see skin or another colour, those pieces working together would equal one point. “POINTS OF INTEREST”: A viewer’s eyes are drawn to look at: 1: Vibrant makeup. 2: Dark makeup. 3: Light-reflective makeup or opaque matte-textured makeup (other than a concealer, foundation, or powder).
Both makeup “LOOK #2” and “LOOK #3” count as one point. The point of interest will be your lips in “LOOK #2” and your eyes in “LOOK #3.” “LOOK #1” counts as zero points, as the face has no points of interest. NOTE: “LOOK #4” counts as two points, as your lips and eyes are both points of interest. See chapter THE FOUR BASIC FACES for additional information.
1920s Makeup
EXAMPLE 1: You can wear a bold ruffled blouse (+1 point), simple blue jeans (+0 points), brightly coloured shoes (+1 point), a statement ring (+1 point), a simple black handbag (+0 points), and makeup LOOK #2 (+1 points) = 4 points. Variation example: If you want to wear a bold handbag (+1 point), choose to wear makeup LOOK #1 (+ 0 points) = 4 points. EXAMPLE 2:
4: Hairstyles that appear “done”/any hairstyle that requires hairspray or another product to hold it in place, etc
You can wear a simple black dress (+0 points), simple black pumps (+0 1990s Makeup
THE FOUR-POINT RULE: EXAMPLE 2 (From The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen)
points), a colourful clutch (+1 point), layered, bold necklaces (+1 point), a bold bracelet (+1 point), and makeup LOOK #3 (+1 point) = 4 points. Variation example: Trade the simple black dress for a patterned one (+ 1 point), and take off the necklaces (+ 0 points) = 4 points. Stick with the “Four Point Rule” and add up your points. By not exceeding four “points of interest” at any given time, you will always look your best. Also, consider the inspiration for a runway trend and your personal needs when styling the fabulous you. More information and examples available in Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup by Charis Michelsen.
If you love a specific look, and it is not “in” at the moment, do not let that deter you from embracing it; at some point, you might be the one starting a hot new trend that will be seen on the runway! For more information and to view videos from Charis Michelsen, be sure to like, subscribe, or follow her on her social media channels: YouTube channel: CHARIS MICHELSEN Instagram: @charismichelsen_official TikTok: charismichelsen_official Facebook: official.charismichelsen Twitter: OfficialCharisM Official Website: charismichelsen.com
In forecasting the future of fashion and beauty, the vote is for the maximization of one’s physical appeal and consciousness will always be in style— the more one chooses healthy and cruelty-free fashion and cosmetic products, the better. Some inspirational style icons who have made fashion and beauty their own, no matter the trends, are Gabrielle Coco Chanel, Jacklyn Kennedy Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Jimi Hendrix, Ali MacGraw, Steve McQueen, David Bowie, Tom Ford, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Victoria Beckham. Remember that following runway trends is not mandatory.
How to contact Charis Michelsen: AGENT: Sheila Finegan sheila@trinityartist.com MANAGER: Jeff Smith jeff@trinityartist.com
PHOTOGRAPHY: Daniel Weber @danielweber_photography MODEL, MAKEUP, STYLING: Charis Michelsen @charismichelsen_official HAIR: Sylvie Marshall Of Brighton Salon Of Beverly Hills @hairbysylvie ARTWORK: Charis Michelsen (From The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen) charismichelsen.com
THE FOUR-POINT RULE: EXAMPLE 1 (From The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen)
LONDON RUNWAY
MARK FAST
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Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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TIGER OF SWEDEN Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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AADNEVIK Photography by Ian Clark
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli
Matches Fashion Sequinned cropped top £430.00
Rejina Pyo Volume Hoops Gold Plated with Blue Enamel £195.00 Mother of Pearl Esther black daisy dress £395.00 Browns Fashion Fauna Floral Print Dress £220.00
Molly Goddard Sendai Bag Red Pink £420.00
Matches Fashion Asymmetric wool and lurex sweater dress £1,170.00 Rejina Pyo Hattie Dress Organic Cotton Print Flower Amber £650
Browns Fashion Fleur Lace Maxi Dress £650.00
H&M Conscious shaping swimsuit £24.99
Erdem Small Crystal Knot Clip Earrings £295.00 Yuhan Wang AISTE rose lace tiered skirt £529.00
Molly Goddard Jimmy Dress Pink £1,300.00
Rejina Pyo Malia Sandals Leather Orange £395.00
INSPIRED BY LFW
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Yuhan Wang Draped jacquard trousers £510.00
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ROMANTIC DARKNESS This month, Cicilia illustrates the history of one of the most famous British fashion houses, Alexander McQueen. Many of you probably know this name very well. For those who have recently landed on the fashion planet, this brand’s fame spiked as their oversized trainers were the most popular womenswear item in 2019.
Lee Alexander McQueen, founder of the eponymous company, was born in 1969 in Lewisham. His father was a Scottish taxi driver who instilled in him a deep love for his homeland, and his mother was a social science teacher. In addition to Scotland, one of his passions and artistic inspirations was birds. In fact, as a young man, he was a member of the Young Ornithologists' Club. McQueen was not very keen on school, and at the age of sixteen, he dropped out to devote himself to tailoring. He immediately landed in the famous Saville Row by chance or talent, where he did an apprenticeship. Between the ages of sixteen and twenty, he had many work experiences. For example, he worked as a theatrical costumier for Angels and Bermans, where he created the costumes for the Les Misérables show. After that, he moved to Milan working for Romeo Gigli and later returned to attend Central Saint Martins.
In fact, given his innate talent, he coveted the position of pattern cutter tutor; however, he was too young to teach. In 1992 he enrolled in an MA. His graduation collection, called Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, was a reckless success. In fact, the stylist Isabella Blow bought all the outfits. She had a massive influence on the future success of the British designer; she persuaded him to use his middle name, Alexander. This was a marketing strategy and, at the same time, a trick to prevent the job centre he was affiliated with from finding out he was working. Blow was a mentor for Alexander McQueen, and she offered him her home basement. According to her, this would have given Alexander a safe working and living space without struggling financially and losing his focus on fashion.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Creating a stir seemed like a hobby for McQueen, who was later accused of exalting slavery, sexualising women, and being a lover of horror. After the first few years of controversy, McQueen landed in the graces of musical celebrities. He designed the wardrobe for David Bowie's 1997 tour, which includes the Union Jack coat. He also worked with Björk, directing her music video 'Alarm Call' and designing a topless dress.
McQueen initially took inspiration for all of his collections from famous films. Taxi Driver, his first postgraduation collection, was based on Martin Scorsese's film. This was a real success, as it introduced the 'bumsters', also known as low-rise jeans. McQueen's runways have always been bold and provocative. So, it's not a coincidence that he was called 'the hooligan of English fashion'. The designer, creative but with a complex personality, presented the fashion show Nihilism featuring models covered with fake blood and bruises. In 1994, McQueen met Katy England and decided to make her his righthand man, or rather his adviser. The first collection they worked on together was The Birds, a roadkill themed catwalk featuring tire marks, paying homage to Alfred Hitchcock's film. McQueen's fame, a misunderstood genius, collected many negative reviews over the first years. However, his fame spiked when Madonna wore her 'bumsters' jeans in an MTV advert in 1994. Fake blood appeared very often on McQueen's catwalks. In fact, Highland Rape, a collection aimed at exposing Scotland's 'rape' at the hands of England, was a mix of fake blood and torn apart clothes. Unfortunately, not everyone understood the show's true meaning, and McQueen was accused of misogyny as many thought it referred to the rape of women.
At the age of thirty, McQueen was named Head of Design for Givenchy, following the departure of John Galliano. The Count Hubert de Givenchy was by no means happy with this, considering McQueen utterly inappropriate for his fashion house. McQueen's debut for Givenchy was with the Spring / Summer 1997 collection, a homage to ancient Greece. As refined as it was, teeming with white and gold, it differed from Galliano's lavish collections.
LONDON RUNWAY
agreement with Gucci selling 51% of his own company. The Italian and French brands were rivals, and for this reason, Givenchy dismissed him. This was the only strategy to revive Alexander McQueen's brand, which soon opened boutiques worldwide, expanding to perfume, eyewear accessories, and menswear. With considerable financial backing from Gucci, McQueen continued with his bold and provocative runways.
Back in London, he designed the It's a Jungle out There collection, inspired by gazelles daily hunted by lions. He empathised a lot with these savannah victims. Although he felt oppressed by the fashion industry with its negative reviews on his past collections, the new one was a success. He rode the wave of positive reviews and started to play a lot also with set design. Indeed, his Spring/Summer 1998 collection, Untitled, was presented on a catwalk made of water and yellow lights, while the next one had a masked model standing in a circle of fire. McQueen didn't actually leave Givenchy peacefully; in fact, he was fired. In 2000, he signed an
His last public appearance was during the Paris Fashion Week in February 2009, when he presented Plato's Atlantis collection. The show was supposed to be broadcast live on the internet, but the site crashed when Lady Gaga tweeted about the upcoming show. McQueen had a twisted personality, often felt misunderstood by others, and was almost pathologically introverted. He committed suicide, as did his mentor Isabella Blow who died in 2007, at his home in Mayfair in 2010. At the time, he only had very few uncompleted pieces for his Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, which were finished by his team.
A handful of fashion editors attended that show and then reported how creepy it was to perceive McQueen's obsession with the afterlife just by observing those sixteen outfits. Gucci's financial support ensured the continuation of the brand and by Sarah Burton, McQueen's assistant, who was appointed Creative Director. Burton designed Catherine Middleton's wedding dress and won the prize Designer of the Year during the 2011 British Fashion Awards. Although McQueen's ready-towear is now much more famous than his first runways, I recommend you to check out the incredible shows created by McQueen himself. His shows' setting was not just a contour to his clothes but an externalisation of the designer's disturbances and obsessions that could not be recreated in fabric and haberdashery. You can find more of Cicilia's works by visiting ciciliabrognoli.com Images by Cicilia Brognoli from the Roses exhibition held in the Alexander McQueen flagship store in Bond Street from November 2019 to May 2020.
GOWNS N' ROSES BY BE UNIQUE BE YOU
Models: Ayla Imogen; Ivie Akira; Lacey Rae; Lara Jane; Scarlett; Stephany Ioana @stephanyioana; Tylda; Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique; Ysabella Kristeen
Designer: Anne Wilkinson - Be Unique Be You @be_uniquebeyou
Photographer: Ram Eagle Photoworks - @ram.eagle
Location: Historic Rose Garden, Southsea - Portsmouth
UNDERRATED SNEAKERS THAT YOU NEED FOR THE UPCOMING SEASON
This week, Thomas Woods details the best big brand ‘under the radar’ sneakers that will compliment your autumn and winter wardrobes- whilst also saving you some pennies.
With streetwear at its highest point of popularity, everybody wants the latest and greatest sneakers, which often leads to the newest releases being hard to come by. From the front runners such as Nike and Adidas, to the low profilers like New Balance and Converse, this list is what you need to track down those must-haves. Being a shoe lover myself, I have compiled the 10 best value for money unisex sneakers that these leading shoe brands have to offer for the upcoming autumn and winter period.
9: New Balance MADE UK 991
7: Converse x Ambush CTAS Duck Boot
(Price): £170.00 (Colourway): green/wine/yellow
(Price): £84.97 (Colourway): white/black
With the emergence of the ‘dad’ shoe, New Balance made its triumphant return. This chunky 991 was “constructed for comfort and style”, with its warm earth tones perfectly matching the autumnal changing of the leaves. The shoe’s suede upper adds to this warm appearance overall and I believe this would be a great addition to your collection if you’re willing to spend a bit extra.
If we are talking durability, this shoe goes top of the list. This 2020 release combines the Converse name with established luxury brand Ambush to produce a high-top boot, made up of a combination of mesh material for comfort as well as a leather bottom for durability. At half its original price, this boot would add a bit of luxury to your winter wardrobe whilst also not setting you back too far. It also comes in a bright blue colourway if you’re feeling more adventurous!
QUICK TIP: For the best prices on all these shoes, make sure to check out if there are any discount codes available (especially if you’re a student). 10: Adidas Originals Samba Vegan Shoes
8: Nike Blazer Mid '77 Vintage
(Price): £70.00 (Colourway): cloud white/core black/gum
(Price): £89.95 (Colourway): white/black
Nothing like bringing something back, is there? This classic Adidas silhouette goes back to 1949 and has been everpresent since, with the shoe slowly beginning to re-emerge as a fashionable favourite for both men and women. With this planet-friendly iteration, you get the classic shape and those timeless three stripes all along with a neutral colour palette that goes with absolutely everything. For £70, I think this is a reliable choice for the upcoming autumn period.
A product of the 1970s, the Nike Blazer Mid ’77 Vintage was originally tested as a basketball sneaker but eventually became a staple lifestyle shoe. As a potential high-top replacement for the overpriced Jordan 1 silhouette, this shoe matches with almost anything and will be certain to keep your ankles warm in winter. At £90, I think this is a shoe well worth having... just make sure to use shoe protector to keep them looking brand new!
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6: Converse Color Vintage Canvas Chuck 70 (Price): £75.00 (Colourway): deep bordeaux/egret/black Not much needs to be said about this all-time classic shoe... it really is the definition of timeless. The adaptable high-top sneaker comes in at sixth place in a plum-like colourway with an aged cream bottom. The richness of the darkish red is bound to integrate perfectly into your autumnal colour palettes, and with the lower price-point, it’s a no-brainer!
LONDON RUNWAY 2. Nike Lahar Low (Price): £114.95 (Colourway): hemp/grain/orange/smoke
5: Nike Free Run Trail (Price): £109.95 (Colourway): driftwood, white & black A slightly left of centre choice, the Nike Free Run Trail is a comfort-based shoe that is perfect for those on the go. Nike combines an airy mesh upper with a light brown suede and a foam midsole to create a sneaker that will last you through the autumn and winter months. The colourway is one of my favourites on this list as it combines shades of brown and orange with a crisp white, which certainly offers solid autumnal vibes. A higher price point is a downside, but the comfort it provides is unmatched.
3: Adidas Forum 84 Low
The top two picks were hard to separate, but coming up just short of top spot is the Nike Lahar Low in a brown colourway. A combination of a sneaker and boot, this new release from Nike looks like it can do it all. Apparently “built for the rugged urban landscape”, this model could fit just as well on the streets as it would do on a hike; the possibilities are endless! It’s a shoe that has most definitely flown under the radar, with it being readily available to buy right now. Go check it out, it has multiple colourways if this one fails to impress.
(Price): £85 (Colourway): off white/collegiate green /glow pink This 1984 silhouette comes in at third place with its unique but complimentary colour combination of peach, green, and off white. Adidas have produced a perfect chunky sneaker here, with its wide middle making it an ideal shoe to let sit under wide-leg jeans and various other bottoms, like cargos. Additionally, little details such as its Velcro lace strap and personalisation feature make it a purchase well worth its £85 price point.
4: Nike Dunk High (Price): various (Colourway): navy/white This may be a shoe that many expected not to be on this list considering its high popularity. Over the last year, Nike have released an array of Dunk High colourways, with the ‘Championship Navy’ edition being one of its most slept-on pairs. It offers a high-top alternative to more common silhouettes and has a clean, neutral colour balance that would pair brilliantly with varsity jackets and much more. Despite it being sold out at Nike, resell websites such as StockX have them listed at relatively affordable prices depending on size, and with the sheer popularity of the shoe, it is certainly a piece that would help you stand out from the crowd.
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1. Nike Blazer Low x Sacai (Price): £119 (Colourway): tan/red Coming in at first place on the list has to be the recently released Nike x Sacai Blazer Low in the ‘British Tan’ colourway. Possibly the best cold weather colourway I’ve seen in a while, this collaboration adds a popular brand to your collection while keeping your bank account looking healthy. The contrast of the red and tan alongside the beautiful suede materials creates a striking shoe that will still match with everything you have. The additional doubled tongue, laces, and bottom projects an unmistakeably Sacai look whilst keeping the overall shoe lowkey. At £119, I see this shoe as the best balance in terms of appearance, luxury, and price.
I want to remind you that it's ok to have different emotions. You shouldn't blame yourself for your reactions. You shouldn't estimate yourself as a person for "bad" or "good" emotions. Furthermore, you are not your emotions.
Model: Elena Berezhnova @letta.violetta Photographer: Maria Konakova @radio_ladio
Beauty Veil
Models: Anastasia Gorishna @Nastyagorishna; Enplanafro @enplanafro Makeup Artist: Sarah Lily @glambysarahlily; Liudka @Liudka.b Photographer: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon Veils: Accesorize
LONDON RUNWAY
London Runway was on hand to witness the live catwalk auditions to select the face (or feet!) of the upcoming Des O'Connors shoe collection. With insights from our Face of London Runway 2021 Womenswear winner, Kirsty Spence… On Saturday 11th September, a large group of hopeful models filed into the Holiday Inn in Kensington. They were a diverse bunch, all from different shapes and sizes and walks of life – and all of them were hoping for the chance to become the new ambassador for Des O’Connor’s shoes. With a prize worth £10,000 on the line, everyone was ready to put their best foot forward. And with our favourite model coach, Maxine Griffiths, at the helm, they all had an amazing shot! After a day of practice, the models walked out on the runway in front of a live audience, competing in three rounds to get to the top prize. The first round saw all the models stepping out in all-black outfits, bringing us to a neutral comparison of each of their talents. From there, they were given their own choice of their favourite outfit to wear with their own stunning, colourful shoes. Finally, the top entrants returned in new looks to answer some questions from the judges and get the chance to be crowned as the winners. Little did they know, there were actually more prizes to be won! The judges actually named winners in five categories as well as the overall winner.
DES O’CONNORS LIVE CATWALK AUDITIONS
They were:
Miss Impact – Maria Castiblanco Miss Achieve – Ewelina Salata Miss Courage – Hera Kruja Miss Influence – Kinga Orlicz Miss Energy – Lina Rahban
DOC Winner 2021 – Melissa Luke
Melissa will go home with five pairs of Des O’Connors shoes and will also model for the brand in the future. And she wasn’t the only winner on the day, either – with attendees all being entered into a raffle to win shoes and one on one motivational sessions with Des himself. “The models were amazing,” Kirsty told us after watching the show from the front row. “It was really professional, with a full-on catwalk. It was really vibrant, really upbeat. There was sass, there was attitude! I loved the diversity!” Jealous? Well, you might have missed out on this year, but that doesn’t mean you’ve missed every opportunity. Head to desoconnorsmodels.com to get the lowdown on the next opportunity – not to be missed if you’re an aspiring model, a shoe lover, or want to find empowerment for yourself as a woman! Take a peek over the next few pages to see the winners and runners up, as well as a highlight gallery of the most exciting shoes that the models wore on the day! What will the Des O’Connors shoe collection look like? Stay tuned for when it is launched in March to find out!
DES O CONNORS MODEL WINNERS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
DES O CONNORS LIVE CATWALK AUDITIONS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
DES O CONNORS SHOE HIGHLIGHTS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
BEST OF BOTH BOUTIQUE Images by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
LFW came in full force this season with both digital and in-person presentations, but what was even better than nearly a week of innovative SS22 fashion? The street styles returned! Candice brings you LFW street style inspired trends fit for each unique sign.
Aries March 21 - April 20
The Amaury Coat in Green, Navy, and White Stripe is both versatile and bold, perfect for any season. By Alice Early, all of their pieces are designed and handmade in London with classic, structured designs perfect for this fire sign!
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Aligne’s Quilted Evie Sleeveless Liner features a drawstring waist and is the perfect layering must-have! Tauruses will love the comfortable design!
Gemini May 22- June 21
Eclectic and funky are words used to describe a Gemini and their style! Pair this sign with ROOP’s satin Baby ROOP Bag and you’ll have a match made in heaven!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22 This feminine Virago Sleeve Top by Aardes in wild rose is perfect for elevating the classy Cancer’s traditional t-shirt and jeans fit. The limited edition top is 100% cotton and hand block printed in Jaipur, India.
Leo July 23- August 21 Knee and thigh high boots cannot be missed when looking back at LFW street styles. With Beyond Skin’s Roxie B Camel Faux Leather Knee High Vegan Boots, Leos will strut with confidence everywhere they go!
Virgo August 22- September 23 Diligent Virgos constantly on the go want nothing less than perfect, and this translates over to their fashion tastes as well! Oversized blazers never go wrong with their practical and chic aesthetic, like this Mother of Pearl Eden Prince of Wales Jacket!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Libra
September 24- October 23
Colour-blocking makes a return with fashion forward Libras leaping with joy to pair their favourite colour schemes together this season! Stella McCartney’s ‘Maia’ coat is “splashed with vivid pink, red and orange hues.”
Scorpio
October 24- November 22
Checks and ginghams are back, and Scorpios rock this undying trend like no other! Seventy + Mochi’s Victoria Blouse in Handwoven Berry Gingham showcases the duality of this compassionate yet stoic sign with its frill design and dark colouring.
Sagittarius
November 23- December 22
Sagittariuses and Beaumont Organic are the experts of style and comfort. The Francesca Linen Top’s balloon sleeves and tie-up collar make for an elegant boho addition to both sign and brand!
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Kairi London’s Julia Bag in their yin yang design is 100% vegan made from cactus leather. It fits almost everything a Capricorn may need of it and more!
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Trendsetters through and through, Aquarians rock anything they don, setting the standard. This Mahogany Paradise set from House of Sunny features statement, printed pieces that they’re always drawn to.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
Yasmina Q’s Willow Dress in Sunrise Yellow features a full length design with jasmine ditsy print and cascading frills. Pisceans will love this ethereal, dreamy design, enhancing their intuition and femininity.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers
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LONDON ACCESSORY WEEK Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY
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AFRICA FASHION AWARDS: KANDE COLLECTION Images by Fil Mazzarino
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LA DAMA LINGERIE Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
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MISS POLSKI UK & IRELAND Paweł Majewski is the Founder and CEO of Miss Polski UK & Ireland. Miss Poland UK & Ireland 2021 - Sandra Salamon Miss Poland UK & Ireland Teen 2021 - Klaudia Kotlarz 1st Vice Miss - Katarzyna Kriger 1st Vice Miss Teen - Nikola Ladosz 2nd Vice Miss - Nikolina Holuk 2nd Vice Miss Teen - Jagoda Biegala Miss Photo Teen - Victoria Tadej Miss Photo - Marta Chrostowska Miss Internet Teenager - Victoria Tadej Miss Internet - Sandra Salamon Miss Teen Personality - Jagoda Biegala Miss personality - Anna Guzak Miss Smile - Nell Malczuk Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
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LONDON RUNWAY
THE MOST ICONIC SUPERMODELS OF ALL TIME
In the aftermath of London Fashion Week, Ruth Croft explores the most iconic supermodels of all time and their impact on modern society.
Every September, just as the leaves begin to fall, the streets of the capital seem to quiver with anticipation as London Fashion Week returns. The revolutionary event first took place in October 1983, and is showcased twice a year - once in the spring, and then in the autumn - for designers to present their upcoming collections to the public. It is organised by the British Fashion Council, a not-forprofit establishment that, in addition to coordinating fashion events and awards, is responsible for supporting the next generation of designers. This year, the event was held from the 16th to the 21st of September, leading with the talents of Bora Aksu, Halpern, Molly Goddard, Rejina Pyo, and ERDEM, to name but a few. The shows were split between both physical and digital events, due to the COVID-19 pandemic. But as always, it was remarkable to see the hard work of everyone involved in such a prestigious experience, and to express our appreciation of their dedication and genius.
With this reminder of such talent, it rouses the conversation around to the other true power shining from events such as this: that which brings the designers’ dream to life, and styles it out magnificently on the runway. I am, of course, referring to the role of the models - more specifically, the elusive supermodel. The vague definition of said supermodel is simply a highly paid fashion model who is beautiful and famous enough to have cultural dominance. They typically have an illustrious reputation amongst prominent
fashion designers, magazine editors, and beauty brands. Though it may seem undemanding to stand on the stage and look pretty, the art of modelling is a complicated role which requires a lot of energy. It is their job to showcase the designs, to cast them into the light, and reveal them as something entirely visionary. They are the presentation of ideals. And most of the time, they find themselves even more renowned than their creators, making themselves household names throughout the entire world. In light of this, here we explore the top most iconic supermodels of all time…
Naomi Campbell Perhaps the most influential supermodel of the ‘90s, Naomi Campbell was the first person that came to mind when I thought about writing this article. Her era in the fashion industry began in the 1980s, and continues to this day, although her first appearance in the spotlight was when she starred in a Bob Marley music video at age seven. Known for her beauty and committed attitude to her work, Campbell soon established
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LONDON RUNWAY herself as one of the most reputable models in the entire industry early on in her career, being awarded the title of ‘supermodel’ by the international press. It’s worth noting that she was the most famous black model of her time. Since then, she has also earned notoriety for being particularly philanthropic. Not only has she raised significant funds for the Nelson Mandela Children’s Funds, and raised awareness for breast cancer through Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, she is also the founder of the charityFashion for Relief, which organised fund-raising fashion events to aid victims of Hurricane Katrina in 2005.
earning her the nickname, ‘The Shrimp.’ She even helped popularise the mini skirt.
Cindy Crawford Rising to fame in the 1980s, Cindy Crawford soon became a part of what is now known as ‘the Big Six’, consisting of the top supermodels on the runway at the time. In her time, she had a reliable presence on fashion and lifestyle magazine covers, as well as various modelling campaigns and catwalks. She is best known for her voluminous, wavy hair, strong eyebrows, and her trademark beauty mark.
Elle MacPherson The girl-next-door from Australia, Elle MacPherson was known for her smart and athletic aesthetic. She was enrolled at Sydney University to study Law, but began modelling to pay for her textbooks. She was soon posing on the covers of many American magazines, however, her most prominent exposure is arguably her record five covers in the annual Swimsuit Issue in Sports Illustrated. This eventually earned her the nickname, ‘The Body.’ She is also an ambassador for RED, an enterprise designed to raise money for the Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis, and Malaria.
Jean Shrimpton Jean Shrimpton has been described as having ‘the world’s most beautiful face,’ known for her doe eyes and pouty lips. She was particularly poignant because of her contrast with the former curvaceous look presented by models in the ‘60s,
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Gisele Bündchen Gisele Bündchen rose to fame in the ‘90s, after being discovered by Elite Model Management in Rio de Janeiro. Her very first runway show was during New York Fashion Week, and she soon went on to work with Dolce and Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace. The media referred to her as ‘the return of the sexy model,’ as well as ‘the Brazilian bombshell.’ It is reported that Bündchen has been the highest-paid model in the world since 2004, however, she has used her wealth philanthropically. Not only did she donate $150,000 to the Zero Hunger Program in Brazil, but she has also campaigned for St Jude Children’s Research Hospital, and the Red Cross to aid those in Haiti after the earthquake in 2010. She is a Goodwill Ambassador for the United Nations Environment Program.
LONDON RUNWAY Twiggy Twiggy (real name Lesley Hornby) was the star of the Swinging Sixties, storming into the modelling world at only 16 years of age. She is best known for her huge, dark eyes that she made even more prominent with drawn-on eyelashes, and her delicately slender frame which inspired her nickname.
woman to ever walk in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in 2009. She resides in New York, and is continuing to rise in global success.
Jourdan Dunn In 2008, Jourdan Dunn was the first black model to star in a Prada show for over a decade. She has since spoken about the lack of diversity in the modelling industry, and the discrimination she has faced during her career. Despite these hardships, she has campaigned with the likes of Marc Jacobs and Yves St Laurent, and is considered to be one of her generation’s supermodels. Kate Moss The British model that everyone loves, Kate Moss was a pioneer of the ‘90s fashion world. She was the face of ‘heroin chic,’ a style that represented the androgynous, slender, pale skin trend that rose in the early 1990s. It was a deviation from the previous supermodel look, awarding Moss worldwide attention. She has been associated with many brands over the years, and is still considered to be one of the world’s most influential people.
Liu Wen Known as the first Chinese Supermodel, Liu Wen debuted her international runway career in 2008, walking for Burberry. She has since worked with huge fashion brands, such as Oscar de la Renta and Alexander Wang. She became the first East-Asian
Cara Delevingne Supermodel, actress, and singer… it seems Cara Delevingne has it all. She was signed to Storm Management in 2009, but didn’t break through properly until 2012, when she walked in all four of the big Fashion Weeks: New York, London, Paris, and Milan. She has since become the face of Rimmel, and twice won an award for ‘Model of the Year’ in the British Fashion Awards.
Their reputation is undeniably befitting. To be a model is to work with dedication, and a lot of willpower. The industry is known to be controversial, at best. To rise to power, one must be determined to look past every rejection and heartless comment. It is not an easy ride. But then again, perhaps that’s why we call them ‘super’. You can read more of Ruth’s work on Instagram by following @thewriterruth. Images via WikiMedia Commons
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
What's one fashion show you'd love to see in person?
&
I want to go back in time and see an Alexander McQueen show from the man himself! - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
“I would love to see a Dior or Chanel show but only if I could wear their clothes in the front row!” - Amber Johnson, Publishing Assistant
“YEEZY!”
“SAVAGE X FENTY” – Anna Marie, Fashion Student
- Jack, Sales Manager
“I would honestly love to see any LFW show now that we're able to again, I'll take anything!” – Louise Jensen, Fashion Buyer
“I would love to see something at Milan Fashion Week. I'm not picky!” - Cal J, Musician
“Joshua Kane!” – Jared Rehal, Operations Manager
“Viktor and Rolf shows never disappoint, I love how creative they are!” – Jenny, Model
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