TAYLOR SWIFT'S RED . SUSTAINABLE WRAPPING . WATERCOLOR FASHION BOOK . CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE
HOUSE OF IKONS . PRIME LONDON . HANNAH SOSNA . AFRICA DAY FASHION . SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS
ISSUE 68 27TH NOVEMBER 2021
THE WINTER ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Ruth Croft Advertising Enquiries - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Aimee Nielsen, Kelse, Rowena Meghan, Sukaz, Tokyo Twiggy, Bani Pasricha, Daykeyla, First Nations, Leah Kelly, TSX Design House, Faduma’s Fellowship, Robert Keene, Strictly Bizzness, Beads on Toastt, Rowdy Couture, Afropop Socks, DWILTS, Ekaterina Timina, Tatyana Sanina, Jenna Ali, Paul Pienko, Bozhyi Anisiia, Gella Sabitova, Olga Danilova, Gusarova Nina, Gella Sabitova, Katya Lukyanova, Sonya, Maria Solovieva, Klepikova Mariia, Gusarova Nina, Zukhra Salakhova, Olga Danilova, Elegant Essentials, Jiang Chipao, Jojo Braut & Abendmode, Original Crackage Page, Postcode, Yade Couture By Sadiye Demir, Hannah Sosna, Rob Betts, Prime London, Ram Eagle, Vivienne Monique, Ninah Aguila, Siblingz Fashion for Swag Apparel, Kate Backdrop, Isabell Clews, Gwenette Burgos, Maja Spolnicki, Vivienne Monique, Alexia Brasov, Iris Hota, Star Gracio, Jacqueline Hota, Stephany Ioana, Lara Jane Gorman, Lexi Griffin, Oliwia Mituniewicz, Julia Borowicz, Lillian Chyzowski, Francesco Lo Iacono, David & Charles, Jil & Jug, Mariia Pashuk Brand, Sigrun, Simi Sandhua, Sita Couture, Vildiz Stoffe, IA London, LA Pearlin, Patrick Cupid, Angel Nokonoko, Mandy ann Keene, Helen Kirkum Special thanks to: Strictly Bizzness, Beads on Toast, Rowdy Couture, Afropop Socks, DWILTS, Prime London, Francesco Lo Iacono, David & Charles
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk © 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene
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CONTENTS
17 VISUALS Oxford Fashion Studio Emerge Designer Collective Faduma's Fellowship SS22 Collection Maniquí (Cover Editorial)
5 10 15
17
New Faces
39
Portfolio Piece
45
House of iKons
79 House of iKons
98
Helena Kirkum
114
IA London
115
LA Pearlin
118
Patrick Cupid
120
WORDS LR Sustainability Awards Announcement
4
47
Sustainable Christmas Gift Wrapping
29
Africa Day Show
60
LR Christmas Gift Guide 2021
32
Gorgeous Dresses
62
57
Voodoo 4U
64
The Impact of Second-hand Clothing in Africa
67
New Business: Hannah Sosna
68
Style (Conscious) Guide: Winter
69
Book Club: Francesco Lo Iacono
79
Prime London. Winter Chills with Vivienne Monique (Editorial)
Book Giveaway
82
71
Xmas Shopping Spree
95
Imagine by Adrianna Ostrowska Couture at House of iKons
77
Your Style Horoscope
110
Vin + Omi
83
Why the Revival of Taylor Swift's Red is so Important
122
House of iKons: SLCC
91
The Big Question
126
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Hello everyone! I am Candice, the editorial assistant and Acting Editor-inChief for London Runway. You may have seen my articles, YSH feature, or live performances throughout the years. Though we are sad that Rhiannon has to leave us for a while, we are also ecstatic about the new addition to her family! She never gives herself time away from the magazine— or the thousands of other things she does, so this also acts as a good breather and break for her. During her maternity leave, the senior team, myself included, will be overseeing the magazine. However, this is still a whole team effort with all of our current staff, interns, and fabulous contributors stepping it up! We will be providing the same amazing content, so be sure to stay tuned throughout the winter months.
For this issue, you can look forward to a resurgence of the London Runway’s Sustainability Awards! It was such a hit last year, we decided to bring it back but even better. If you know any brands or people fitting the categories, start nomination!. The nominees will be finalised in the next issue, The Silver Issue, and public voting will open. With the festive season upon us, we also have some tips and guides to help you navigate this busy period, including our 2021 Christmas Gift Guide. If you are still searching for that perfect gift, I am sure something on our list will catch your eye! You may have noticed our gorgeous cover as well— that is our Face of London Runway 2021 Menswear Winner Robert Keene finally gracing our cover! Donning jewellery from
Beads on Toastt and Strictly Bizzness, you can see the stunning cover editorial in the pages below. A book review on Francesco Lo Iacono’s new watercolour fashion illustration publication, more galleries from House of iKons, and gorgeous editorials make up the rest of the issue, so be sure to get your digital or print copy soon to see it all! We wish all the best for Rhiannon and her family and will continue releasing content to the same high standards that she has upheld. Our next issue will be filled with New Years tips, 2021 recaps, the LRSA voting, and more you do not want to miss!
Warmly, Acting Editor-in-Chief Candice Wu
CANDICE WU
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LONDON RUNWAY’S SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS Listening to the requests of you guys, we are back with our second annual London Runway Sustainability Awards! For those who missed it last year, this award puts the highlight on select brands truly making the giant leaps toward ethical and sustainable creativity and design. We had great responses from the first one, so we are even more excited to see the innovative brands and people this time around. PROCESS: With two phases, we have the nominations and then the final public voting. Nominations will be accepted until the 15th of December. The public voting will commence in the December issue when we have our final nominations, and winners will be announced in the January issue! PHASE 1: NOMINATIONS Comment on our social media platforms on what brand you nominate for the title in each category!
Best Sustainable Store: the brand that has been at the forefront of sustainable, ethical fashion or production Best Sustainable Influencer of the Year: an individual that has promoted and encouraged a more eco-friendly way of life with a substantial social media presence Biggest Sustainable Breakthrough: a recent policy, change, or reform that has paved the ways for ecological change and positivity
PHASE 2: PUBLIC VOTES Determined through your guys’ votes as well as our own in-team vetting of the brands, you will have a chance to vote for your favourite brand/person via the polls across our social media platforms! The nominees with the highest votes will win the title of "Best Sustainability ..." for each respective category.
The Winners: Collaborations, Digital Awards Ceremony and Prizes! To celebrate the winning brands, there will be a live stream awards ceremony to chat in-depth with the winners and hear more about their story and ethos! The interviews will also give them a chance to speak on future sustainability goals.
Prizes for Winners: Interview / Ad space Editorial shoot/spread with the brand’s products or the individual Promotional posts across all of our social media Title and recognition within the magazine for sustainability efforts
If you know of any brands or creators that fit the bill, start nominating! Image via Canva
THE CATEGORIES INCLUDE: Best Sustainable Fashion Designer: the designer that devotes themselves and their work to environmentally friendly practices and methods Best Sustainable Accessories Brand: a sustainable, ethical accessories brand Best Cruelty-free and Sustainable Makeup Brand: a cruelty-free and ethical makeup brand
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OXFORD FASHION STUDIO Photography by Fil Mazzarino
AIMEE NIELSEN
PAGE 5
KELSE
ROWENA MEGHAN
SUKAZ
TOKYO TWIGGY
EMERGE DESIGNER COLLECTIVE Photography by Fil Mazzarino
BANI PASRICHA
PAGE 10
DAYKEYLA
FIRST NATIONS
LEAH KELLY
TSX DESIGN HOUSE
FADUMA’S FELLOWSHIP SS22 COLLECTION Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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MANIQUÍ Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc @rhiannondaverc Assistance: Amber Johnson @amberjohn_ Model: Robert Keene @robbie_keene Jewellery: Strictly Bizzness @strictlybizzness.j & Beads on Toastt @beadsontoastt Retouching: color_lab on Fiverr
Our menswear Face of London Runway 2021 winner Robbie models the latest trend in men's jewellery: unisex chains, charms, and beads.
Robert wears: Unisex oversized orange tie-dye t-shirt - £15, Collusion; 2 pack bead bracelet in black - £15, Classics 77; Band ring with green enamel flower - £10, ASOS DESIGN; Pink pick and mix chain - £8.50, Beads on Toast; Lilo ring - £10, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Unisex oversized orange tie-dye t-shirt - £15, Collusion; 2 pack bead bracelet in black - £15, Classics 77; Band ring with green enamel flower - £10, ASOS DESIGN; Big slime ring - £14, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Unisex oversized orange tie-dye t-shirt - £15, Collusion; Kristin necklace - £8.50, and Green pick and mix chain - £8.50, both Beads on Toast; Solero ring - £10, and Gina ring £10, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Unisex oversized orange tie-dye t-shirt - £15, Collusion; Band ring with green enamel flower - £10, and double layer neckchain wtih multicolour beands and chain in silver tone - £12, both ASOS DESIGN; Green pick and mix chain - £8.50, Beads on Toast
Robert wears: Long sleeve t-shirt in black spiderweb - £18, Stainless steel band ring with ying yang design in black - £8, and layered neckchain with beads and safety pins in silver tone - £14, all ASOS DESIGN; Rope bracelet in black and grey - £9, Classics 77; Blue triangle clasp gunmetal chain bracelet in grey - £15, WFTW; Green ring - £12, and Purple ring - £12, both Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Long sleeve t-shirt in black spiderweb - £18, Stainless steel band ring with ying yang design in black - £8, and layered neckchain with beads and safety pins in silver tone - £14, all ASOS DESIGN; Charm necklace in silver - £11, Weekday; Rope bracelet in black and grey - £9, Classics 77; Blue triangle clasp gunmetal chain bracelet in grey - £15, WFTW; Green ring - £12, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Long sleeve t-shirt in black spiderweb - £18, ASOS DESIGN; Multirow mushroom charm necklace in gold and blue - £16.50, Topshop; Blue triangle clasp gunmetal chain bracelet in grey - £15, WFTW; Black heart ring - £5, and Purple ring - £12, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Long sleeve t-shirt in black spiderweb - £18, and Stainless steel band ring with ying yang design in black - £8, both ASOS DESIGN; Snake and heart padlock multirow necklace - £14.50, Liars & Lovers; Blue triangle clasp gunmetal chain bracelet in grey - £15, WFTW; Green ring - £12, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Slim crop suit jacket in wool mix twill - £90, and Relaxed fit short sleeve waffle t-shirt - £16, both ASOS DESIGN; Peace and love multi-row beaded necklace - £14.50, Liars & Lovers; Pearl necklace - £8.50, Beads on Toast; White heart ring - £5, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Slim crop suit jacket in wool mix twill - £90, and Relaxed fit short sleeve waffle t-shirt - £16, both ASOS DESIGN; Beaded stretch bracelet in green - £15, Icon Brand; Inspired ring with chunky star - £10, Reclaimed Vintage; White heart ring - £5, Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Slim crop suit jacket in wool mix twill - £90, Relaxed fit short sleeve waffle t-shirt - £16, and bead necklace with dice and happy face charm in pastel colours - £8, all ASOS DESIGN; Inspired ring with chunky star - £10, Reclaimed Vintage; White heart ring - £5, and White square ring - £14, both Strictly Bizzness
Robert wears: Slim crop suit jacket in wool mix twill - £90, and Relaxed fit short sleeve waffle t-shirt £16, both ASOS DESIGN; Beaded stretch bracelet in green - £15, Icon Brand; Alex necklace - £8.50, Beads on Toast; White heart ring - £5, and White square ring - £14, and Baby pink ring - £14, Strictly Bizzness
LONDON RUNWAY
SUSTAINABLE CHRISTMAS GIFT WRAPPING Candice brings you sustainable gift wrapping alternatives for a more eco-friendly holiday season. With the holidays right upon us, presents are stacking up waiting to be wrapped and festively decorated. However, knowing that all that packaging will just be quickly circled back into landfills or recycle centres that may not be able to repurpose it, you may be hesitant to go through the traditional gift wrapping route. Never fear though, priding ourselves on our sustainability and eco-friendly ethos, we at London Runway cannot pass through the busiest giving time of the year without giving you guys sustainable alternatives! Whether you are an experienced or beginner wrapper, these methods cater to any level, and the best part is that you will also most likely have a majority of these materials already! Below is a list of ways and examples that you can save the planet and your wallet for the upcoming festive season:
1. BROWN PAPER BAGS Brown paper bags are the classic alternative to traditional Christmas wrapping. Never a shortage, you can save those bags from your grocery trips or packaging from other shipments you may have received. It also provides the perfect canvas for your creativity to flow. The rustic look can be accentuated with a string tie or colourful ribbon that can also be repurposed!
Image via Unsplash
2. NEWSPAPER / REUSED PAPERS If you are an avid newspaper reader(though online news is just as great!), you can reuse those papers for wrapping as well. Giving a vintage look, this method repurposes another potential waste. Any extra papers from work or assignments can also be reused to wrap those gifts. Do not be worried about the content of the papers either; just simply draw or write over it!
Image via Canva
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LONDON RUNWAY
3. SUSTAINABLE TAPE If you are going the newspaper or brown paper bag route, you can put everything together with sustainable tapes or adhesives. Companies, such as Naturally Wrapt, provide recycled paper tape, or you can switch to washi tape, which is biodegradable, eco-friendly, and, not to mention, aesthetic! Made from rice paper, you can easily play up plain wrapping with cutely designed washi tape. You also will not need to worry about doing it perfectly if you are not the best wrapper. The washi tape can cover any mistakes made!
Image via Unsplash
4. TOTE BAGS Putting your present in a tote bag has so many perks to it! Not only is it eco-friendly, but it also acts as an extra gift, a convenient holder, and more! You can reuse an old one or purchase a new one. You can get a printed design or you can get a blank design and decorate it. The possibilities are endless!
Image via Canva
5. FABRIC AND CLOTH WRAPPING Whether you sew or just have leftover fabrics and unused clothing, you can definitely use fabric and cloth to strategically wrap and hide those presents. Probably one of my favourite methods, it is such a cute, accessible, and zero-waste alternative. If you get a fabric scarf, that can be used as a cute accessory later on. Additionally, if you are gifting to someone who sews or crafts, you may see your wrapping in a future project!
Image via Canva
6. SCAVENGING OR ANTIQUE FINDS A bit more unconventional, but if you are one to decorate the wrappings, you can go above and beyond by exploring the natural surrounding foliage or flora and picking some cute additions (where scavenging is allowed!). To the same effect, hitting up your local antique store and looking through the plethora of trinkets can surface some vintage goodies to accent your wrapping! It is a fun adventure, and it also adds that extra special, personal touch. Image via Canva
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LONDON RUNWAY
7. BUCKETS OR BASKETS Taking inspiration from gift baskets and care packages, you can reuse those baskets or buckets for the holiday season! If you do not have any, your local charity shop, arts and craft store, or hardware store should have some affordable options. Again, it is all about repurposing and the best way is to make the wrapping multi-purpose!
Image via Canva
8. MASON JARS / OLD JARS Old jars or mason jars are always a good go-to wrapping alternative! These can be repurposed as drinking glasses or food storage containers. The receiver will definitely be able to find multiple uses for it!
Image via Canva
9. E-GIFTS OR GIFT CARDS Last but not least, the most sustainable, zero-waste way is always digital gifting. Either getting a gift card, e-book, etc., the possibilities go on and on. They are also perfect last-minute options since you will not need to worry about any shipping delays or carrier complications. Though it may seem less personal for some who may prefer physical gits, the environmental footprint it leaves is next to none.
Image via Canva
Hopefully, this guide inspires you to change your plan of action for tackling those presents. Nobody loves cleaning those mountains of leftover wrapping or sticky tape! If you have an alternative method not listed, we would love to see them! Tag us on social media @londonrunwaymag with your creative gift wrapping ways! You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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LONDON RUNWAY'S CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE We bring you the must-have gifts for this Christmas season! Featuring sustainable brands, unique and quirky options, and the best choices for your loved ones – starting with our top three picks…
1.ROWDY COUTURE PUZZLE PATTERNED TIE MADE WITH 100% SILK - ROWDYCOUTURE.COM Best worn with a plain shirt to amplify the design and stand out from the crowd. This item can be bought as a bulk order at gowholesale.co.uk for shops and department stores. Priced at £30/minimum order quantity 100
2. AFROPOP SOCKS - AFROPOPSOCKS.COM Afropop Socks are a London brand made up of designers with African heritage. They’re passionate about staying true to African inspired creations whilst also incorporating a vibrant and contemporary choice of colours and designs for every occasion. Afropop Socks are made with a combed cotton blend making them soft and durable. The designs are unisex and available in a range of sizes to suit men, women, and kids! From £7.99 in kid sizes and £9.99 in adult sizes.
3. DWILTS UNISEX WHITE HOODIE – DEANWILTSHIRECLOTHING.COM A unisex white hoodie with large front pocket and drawstrings for the hood, to the left of the chest area it has a tan color DWILTS Label. A thin layer of wool on the inside of garment, good for them chilly evenings. Hemmed cuffs. Give your hoodie collection a touch of class. £23 from DWILTS
LONDON RUNWAY 4. BLOODLESS BY RHIANNON D’AVERC – AMAZON.CO.UK Okay, we might be a bit biased here, but our Chief Editor’s book series is available to purchase in paperback form! It is already nine books long with another two short-form Christmas novellas, so now is the perfect time to get that crime fiction lover in your life a read to cosy up with while digesting that big Christmas dinner. £6.97 on Amazon.
5. CHEETAH BONE CHINA MUG BY ROLFE&WILLS – SOJUSTSHOP.COM With this year’s maximalist trend for décor, you probably know someone who has invested in some cheetah cushions – or even gone the whole hog with patterned wallpaper. This mug will not only look great in their home, but the design is also hand-drawn and placed in the UK. Get it for £12.99 at So Just Shop.
6. SYRIAN SCARF IN RED – ARTISANANDFOX.COM This stylish scarf is “handcrafted by a Syrian woman refugee living in the Shatila camp in Lebanon.” All of the profits go to the maker, so if you want to do some good with your Christmas gifts this year, this would be a great start. £42.00 from Artisan and Fox.
7. ELIZABETHANDERNEST SUSTAINABLE ECO-FRIENDLY SPA GIFT BOX – ETSY.CO.UK What better way to show someone how much you appreciate them than a spa in a box? This gift set contains eco-friendly soap, candles, seed balls, and vegan sweets, making for the perfect bath time. You can choose the scents for a personalised touch. £19.95 from ElizabethandErnest on Etsy.
8. SUCKA SOFT AND CUTE TULLE EMBROIDERED BAG – NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM This tulle bag comes in three colourways and is definitely adorable. It’s a great reusable alternative to a supermarket-branded shopping bag or just a new handbag for the boho girl in your life. £20 from Sucka on NotOnTheHighStreet.
9. TUDOR BUILDING 750-PIECE SHAPED JIGSAW PUZZLE – LIBERTYLONDON.COM We love a good puzzle at Christmas, and this double-sided option from Liberty captures the iconic building in which the infamous shop is housed. There’s a floral pattern on the back, too, and it’s a sure-to-be-loved gift for any true fashion fan. £30 at Liberty.
10. DAMASCENE SQUARE BOX – ARTISANDFOX.COM This box is absolutely gorgeous and will be a treasured place to store keepsakes or jewellery for a long time to come. Syrian artists handcraft this item and it is then sold in partnership with Turquoise Mountain, a nonprofit which aims to help create sustainable incomes for traditional crafters. £181 from Artisan and Fox.
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11. PERFECT NIGHT’S SLEEP REED DIFFUSER – NEOMORGANICS.COM The gift of a good night’s sleep is totally invaluable. This diffuser scent includes lavender, jasmine, and sweet basil to help send your loved one off to the land of nod. Perfect for dealing with lockdowninduced insomnia. £38 from Neom Organics.
12. LAURENCE KING PUBLISHING FANTASTIC WOMEN CARD GAME – JOHNLEWIS.COM If you want to learn about some of the most amazing women in history, this card game will help you do it. Each illustrated card contains a Top Trumps-style statistics list for women who have changed the game (pun intended). £11.04 from John Lewis.
13. ECOCHAMBER SAVE THE PLANET CANDLES – ETSY.CO.UK These clever candles aren’t just a lovely-scented gift you can give to a friend – they are also a secret ecofriendly second gift as well! It comes with a lid full of seeds you can plant into the same pot once you have finished burning the candle, allowing you to start your own herb garden. £14 from EcoChamber on Etsy
14. BECKY BROOME PERSONALISED NAME WATER BOTTLE – NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM If we’re honest, most of us could really be drinking more water. Not only will this gift help to take care of your bestie, but it also reduces the use of singleuse plastic bottles and imported water, which is a win-win. £32.75 from Becky Broome on NotOnTheHighStreet.
15. THEA BOHO SLEEVE SHIRT SEWING PATTERN – LIBERTYLONDON.COM You could give your bestie a new top – or you could give them the ability to make their own tops forever! This Liberty pattern features a timeless, classic silhouette that will never stop coming back into style. Why not combine it with some of the iconic Liberty fabrics so they have everything they need to get started? £17.50 from Liberty.
16. WHAT DO YOU MEME? GAME – JOHNLEWIS.COM If you are starting to get bored of the same old Cards Against Humanity rounds, What Do You Meme? is the game for you. It will liven up any occasion this Christmas, so buy it for whomever you’re spending the season with and you’re guaranteed to have a laugh. £19.99 from John Lewis.
17. BYAMBERANDROSE HANDMADE A5 ELEPHANT DUNG NOTEBOOK – ETSY.CO.UK This journal is made from 25% recycled paper and 75% elephant dung – although the reviews do helpfully tell us that it doesn’t smell! It is a completely unique and fun gift, which also raises awareness of the plight of the Sri Lankan elephant. £12.95 from ByAmberandRose on Etsy.
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18. CASPIAN SCENTED CANDLE – EMMAJSHIPLEY.COM We’ve been lusting after Emma J Shipley’s designs all year thanks to the maximalist trend, and these luxury candles allow you to grab a piece of the décor without having to redecorate. Perfect as a bigticket item to show someone you really know their tastes! £95 from Emma J Shipley.
19. CHESCA&CO SUSTAINABLE PERSONALISED GREY SQUARE DOG BED – NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM For your furry family member, why not get them something comfy that they will use for a long time to come? This dog bed can be personalised with embroidery in your fur baby’s name – or anything you like up to 25 characters long. £99.99 from chesca&co on NotOnTheHighStreet.
20. LUCKIES DELUXE SCRATCH MAP – JOHNLEWIS.COM For the traveller in your life, there’s nothing better to inspire their wanderlust than this scratch-off map. They can reveal, piece by piece, every section of the globe they travel to. A home decoration and a wishlist all in one! £24 from Luckies at John Lewis.
21. SNOOTYCATZECOSHOP ZERO WASTE CHRISTMAS SOAP GIFT SET IN BAG – ETSY.CO.UK Soap is such a classic gift, and with this zero waste set you get the double whammy of sustainability alongside the Christmas theme. Everything is plastic-free and there’s even a soap dish included, plus it comes pre-wrapped with a tag for you to write on your own message. £12 from SnootyCatzEcoShop on Etsy.
22. ZEBRA EYE MASK IN COBALT – ELIZABETHSCARLETT.COM This luxury eye mask is absolutely gorgeous, and it comes with built-in pampering for your bestie. Right now, you can add an embossed gift box and illustrated gift note, making it even more luxurious for Christmas. £25 from Elizabeth Scarlett.
23. CRAFTS4KIDS SUSTAINABLE TOY WOODEN STABLES AND HORSES SET – NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM If you know a kid who really needs spoiling, this is the one. A wooden toy set is far more sustainable (and likely to be longer-lasting as a play item) than a plastic one, and who can resist playing with horses? £43.50 from Crafts4Kids on NotOnTheHighStreet.
24. MOONBEAM GARDEN JOURNAL SET – SPRING MEMORIES – THEWASHITAPESHOP.COM Give the gift of journaling for mental health! This set could get someone set up with their first-ever bullet journal. The great thing about journaling is there are no rules – it’s just about getting things out on paper, whether through words, art, or a combination of the two. $54.95 from The Washi Tape Shop.
25. WAG&WOOL MONTI SUSTAINABLE DOG JUMPER – NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM Finally, what better way to treat your fur baby than with a cosy jumper to keep them warm over the winter months? This item is made in the UK sustainably, so you’re also doing your bit to fight fast fashion in the canine world. £65 from WAG&WOOL on NotOnTheHighStreet.
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: EKATERINA Name: Ekaterina Age: 21 Location: Russia, Volgograd Agency: Freelance
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can bake the most delicious Napoleon cake.
How long have you been modelling for? I have been modelling for 3 months.
What would surprise people to know about you? I think people would be surprised that I want to take a child from an orphanage.
Where are you from originally? I was born in Russia, in the hero city of Volgograd.
What are your modelling ambitions? In the world of evil and lies, stay kind.
Model: Ekaterina Timina @katya_mikimouse Photographer/Retoucher/Creative Director: Tatyana Sanina @tatyana.sanina.ph
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: JENNA ALI Name: Jenna Ali Age: 19 Location: London (Northwest) Agency: Freelance
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I have a way with animals, and in fact my first shoot was for an animal home.
How long have you been modelling for? A few months since gaining and maintaining weight.
What would surprise people to know about you? I'm quite good at physics.
Where are you from originally? Iraq and Iran, although I've lived and done shoots growing up in 3 different continents.
What are your modelling ambitions? I'd love to support ethical brands, particularly any looking to centre Eastern styles and designers.
Model: Jenna Ali @primpleses Photographer: Paul Pienko @pixel_vivid and @bold_tog All pictures are unedited, unretouched. Mix of outdoor photography using only natural lighting as well as studio photography.
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: ANISIIA Name: Anisiia Bozhyi Age: 7 Location: Crimea Agency: A&T Fashion How long have you been modelling for? 2 years Where are you from originally? Ukraine Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? One of Anisia's main talents is friendship! In her seven years she has never quarrelled with any person. At the world competition, Anisia received the most important award the cup of friendship.
What would surprise people to know about you? Anisiia had many titles: Mini Miss Russia, Mini Miss Eurasia , Mini Miss Federation, Mini Miss Republic, Mini Miss Europe. Besides, Anisia is engaged in acrobatics, gymnastics, modern dance, and acting. What are your modelling ambitions? Anisia dreams to win the title of one of the most beautiful girls in the world, to become a famous model, and open a huge shelter for all animals that need it.
Model: Bozhyi Anisiia @bozhiy_anisiia Photographer/Retoucher: Gella Sabitova @gellionphoto Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Olga Danilova @danilovaolga.makeup Wardrobe Stylist: Gusarova Nina @gnina_style
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GELLA SABITOVA My name is Gella Sabitova, I’m from Moscow and I’m a photographer. This activity makes me happy. I've been photographing for about 15 years. First there was a film, after a polaroid, and of course then a digital Nikon appeared in my life. For the last 2 years I have been shooting children, girls, young people, and families. But my favorite thing is to create portraits not only in the studio but also on the street. In them I can convey the image and character of the model. I like working with colour and light, I choose a special place to work with models and details. I like to improvise, invent, be inspired by the works of artists, photographers and various films. When I work with people for me it's very important to establish a psychological connection with models and be on the same wavelength with them.
portfolio piece It is important for me to be surrounded by the same creative people. My team has people who know their business! I often work with makeup artist Olga Danilova and hair stylist Maria Pavlova. I advise everyone to be inspired by people and what surrounds you every day. Models: Katya Lukyanova @katya_lukyanova_off; Sonya @sophe_alopecia; Maria Solovieva @_marysol_; Klepikova Mariia @klepikoff_twins Wardrobe Stylist: Gusarova Nina @gnina_style Photographer/Retoucher: Gella Sabitova @gellionphoto Makeup Artist: Zukhra Salakhova @zukhra.makeup Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Olga Danilova @danilovaolga.makeup
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ELEGANT ESSENTIALS
House of iKons
LONDON RUNWAY
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
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LONDON RUNWAY
JIANG CHIPAO
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JOJO BRAUT & ABENDMODE
ORIGINAL CRACKAGE
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POSTCODE
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YADE COUTURE BY SADIYE DEMIR
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LONDON RUNWAY
FROM ME TO YOU, TO THE FUTURE: THE IMPACT OF SECOND-HAND CLOTHING IN AFRICA Jessica Carvalho analyses just what sustainability has come to mean to African fashion and designers, and how their efforts are being hindered by the US and Europe.
Out with the old, in with the new. A statement that, apart from being a line from what is arguably the best song to come out of the High School Musical films, is a mantra for rebirth. The phrase gains popularity particularly at the end of the year, a motto that prompts us to do away with what no longer serves us and make way for all things which do. As innocent as those eight words may appear, they can easily trigger a chain of environmentally negative occurrences, particularly when the “old” lies beyond our wardrobe doors. A wardrobe purge isn’t necessarily a terrible thing, especially if those clothes are guaranteed to gain new purpose (and the purge isn’t an excuse for overconsumption of fast fashion), however it’s hard to know the fate of these bags of clothes the second they leave our hands. With luck, donated clothing arrives at donation points or recycling centres ready to either be sold to a new owner or be repurposed. Charity shops are the typical end point we envision for our donated clothes; however, this is only the truth for half of the clothes we donate, the supply so much more higher than the demand that these garments often follow a different path.
The US and the UK have made secondhand clothing into a market of its own, both countries being the world’s biggest clothing exporters. Items which don’t make it to the shop floor are exported, where their value increases exponentially, or they suffer a bleaker fate, their resting place being a landfill somewhere in the African continent. Naturally, this comes with unimaginable environmental effects, especially when fast fashion is thrown into the mix: the clothes purchased are suddenly out of style, they are donated, arrive in a developing country and the surplus that isn’t resold or repurposed is thrown away. Ghana, which receives up to 15 million used items from developed countries, is home to a growing landfill, at least 60% of it composed of unwanted clothes. Sadly, this is becoming a reality in many African countries, tonnes of clothes dumped into the continent to face a slow, environmentally harmful decomposition or incineration, small scale and large scale.
As estimated by the Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP), half of donated clothes do end up in a new home, but the rest ends up being sold abroad for profit - or worse, incinerated or discarded in a landfill.
Images via Unsplash and Canva
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Still in Ghana, donated clothes may meet a happier ending by finding their way to one of the many street markets, though the amount is usually scarce. Sweat, stains and holes are enough to render a garment unsaleable, and importers desperate. The situation throws a punch at yet another pillar of sustainability; importers rely heavily on the donated clothes arriving in the country, and when those are in bad condition, their profit takes a major hit. As people and the environment are affected by the tonnes of donated clothes, the fashion industry also begins to feel its effects. An increase in poor quality clothing means only a very small portion is put up for sale, and competition is fierce. This gives way to a second issue, and that is the squashed efforts of African designers trying to make fashion more sustainable within the continent. Ahluwalia Studio, a brand created by Indian-Nigerian designer Priya Ahluwalia, aims to tackle the issue with clothes ending up at landfills; after a trip to Laos, Nigeria, the designer got to see the devastating effects of unsaleable donations up close.
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Drawing inspiration from this, she went on to release her own Spring/Summer collection in 2019, all pieces created using second-hand clothing. As the youngest continent of the planet (population-wise), Africa is home to plenty of brilliant minds, now turning to bark cloth, beadwork, and traditional Berber weaving to clear the continent’s reputation as a dump for second-hand clothing. Bark cloth in particular is due to make waves in the fashion industry, a rather versatile material that was considered extremely special in Uganda and was used to make royal garments. The Black Lives Matter protests have also shone a light on sustainable black fashion brands, most of which have lacked recognition until just last year. African fashion designers are currently reshaping sustainable fashion by supporting two forms of considerate production; ethical garment production is highly encouraged, putting artisanal products centre stage and, therefore, supporting entire communities. Furthermore, African brands play on the myriad of cultures of the continent
to create truly unique garments from upcycled materials, and even the dyeing of fabric is done using natural dyes. Both actively counteract the damage done to the environment by clothing in landfills, all whilst allowing African creatives to make a mark in the fashion industry on a global scale. Perhaps the biggest takeaway here isn’t to miraculously find a solution to the unsaleable clothes in African landfills, or to reverse the effects of their incineration (though I must say that can also be done on a smaller scale!). Change, though needed immediately, doesn’t always need to occur in big waves to have the most long-lasting impact. In fact, we can all do our own, little part to lessen the amount of clothes arriving into the continent: avoid overconsumption and playing into fast fashion trends, wear our clothes for as long as possible, and even look into upcycling or repairing garments to lengthen their lifespan. Perhaps a naïve belief of mine, but change must start somewhere, and it doesn’t matter if it’s small, as long as it starts – everything we do now will have a direct effect on the rest of our lives, so if not for the rest of us, make change for the sake of your own future.
To read more of Jessica’s work, follow her Instagram @whatjesstypes.
AFRICA DAY SHOW Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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GORGEOUS DRESSES Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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VOODOO 4U Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE
BURBERRY Cotton Gabardine Trench Coat £1690
MONSOON Embellished Maxi Dress in Recycled Polyester Silver £127
BODEN Fair Isle Half-Zip £95
ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli
MONSOON Christmas dinosaur print shirt blue £13.50
NUDIE JEANS Lean Dean Wavy Words £145 ANTHROPOLOGIE Parkside Floral Beaded Headband £28
BODEN Chino Stretch Trousers £25
MONSOON Felicity foil print scuba net dress blue £33
MONSOON Shirred ruffle padded coat blue £41
STELLA McCARTNEY Falabella Mini Shoulder Bag £575
EMILIA WICKSTEAD Ellen cloqué jumpsuit £1302
FARFETCH Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus £708
STELLA McCARTNEY Elyse Platforms £630
LOTTIE Silver leather girls buckle shoes £24.99
CHRISTMAS FAIRY TALE PAGE 67
LUISA VIAROMA Saint Laurent £755
NEW BUSINESS HANNAH SOSNA
Name of company: HANNAH SOSNA Type of business: Slow Fashion Clothihg Company Location: Denmark How long has the company been running? So I started the company in March of this year and I have been making and working on my collection since then. The company was kind of started out of necessity as I graduated from fashion design at Westminster in 2020 during the pandemic, there were barely any jobs going. So I just decided why not, why not just start my own brand. Where did the idea come from? I have always wanted to have my own brand I just never knew when I would be ready. So I just figured there will always be a reason not to do something, so I may as well just got for it. What are your company values? Hannah Sosna is a slow fashion brand meaning that everything is made to order. We do not hold any stock so we can reduce the amount of waste we produce as a company. Also all of our fabrics are either dead-stock fabric, recycled or natural fabrics again to reduce waste and make sure that the garments we do make could and will still decompose in the future.
Currently, how many people work for the business? At the moment HANNAH SOSNA is run by me and me only. I have some wonderful women that help me make some accessories and sew on occasion but everything is just me at the moment. It just new and I am happy to do everything myself at the moment. I hope that I can be hiring people as soon as I have the means. What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? My advice would be that there will always be a reason not to do something, doubt or money, but every new company that starts up is a risk and you have to be willing to take that risk to get the reward. My grandma always says ‘If you don’t ask you don’t get’ and I always apply this to my life. If I don’t try I will never know. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time? I truly hope that in 5 years the company has legs and has grown. I hope to have created beautiful clothing that will last and that is truly worth it for me and for the customer. I hope to also collaborate with other femalerun businesses and help other creatives with their journey.
We operate on a buy less model and personally for me I think that is the way all brands should operate. The problem is that the general public just want clothes so quickly. They see it, they buy it and want it to be at their door in one day and they will wear it once. It's a terrible clothing culture that we live in right now and it needs to change.
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Photography by Rob Betts
THE RUBY RED FULLY HAND MADE EMBROIDERED GOWN FROM
Fall/Winter 2022
For all enquiries or made to measure appointments, please contact us store@primelondonpl.com + 44 7557 00 33 23 (Europe) + 974 7705 74 52 (Middle East)
prime.london.uk prime.london.uk
WINTER CHILLS Photographer: Ram Eagle @ram.eagle
with VIVIENNE MONIQUE
Model: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique Wardrobe Stylist: Ninah Aguila @ninyaguila Fashion Designer: Siblingz Fashion for Swag Apparel @siblingz_fashion Accessory Designer: Gucci @gucci Backdrops: Kate Backdrop @katebackdropuk
IMAGINE By Adrianna Ostrowska Couture at House of iKons
Models: Isabell Clews, Gwenette Burgos, Maja Spolnicki, Vivienne Monique, Alexia Brasov, Iris Hota, Star Gracio, Jacqueline Hota, Stephany Ioana, Lara Jane Gorman, Lexi Griffin, Oliwia Mituniewicz, Julia Borowicz, Lillian Chyzowski Photography: Ram Eagle @ram.eagle
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BOOK CLUB
Watercolor Fashion Illustration by Francesco Lo Iacono
Each month, our resident book club reviews a new must-read volume that will help to educate, inform, entertain, and thrill you. This issue, Rhiannon D’Averc gets stuck into the tutorials provided in fashion illustrator Francesco Lo Iacono’s new book – Watercolor Fashion Illustration: Step-by-step techniques for illustrating fashion and figures in watercolors.
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The first thing I want to say about Watercolor Fashion Illustration is this: it’s a beautiful, beautiful book. We first worked with Francesco Lo Iacono back in Issue 15, when we featured his fashion illustrations on our cover. Since then, it’s been rewarding to see him continue to go from strength to strength, a journey that has culminated in this new book. Intended as a guide to getting started with fashion illustration, it takes us through the very basics of watercolour usage so that even a total novice could pick it up and expect great results. Francesco’s own illustrations are scattered throughout the pages like jewels waiting to be found, each of them detailed and gorgeously coloured. Even looking at them is inspiring, although a total beginner may also feel a sense of trepidation.
After all, it’s a hard act to follow, and you may start to think that you’ll never be able to achieve something quite so amazing. However, the tone of the book is very reassuring. From the beginning, the author tells us everything we need to know about watercolour illustration. We begin by going through the necessary tools, a guide which covers exactly what you’ll need to have on hand to start your career as a fashion illustrator. Francesco recommends specific types of brush, explains the pros and cons of pans vs tubes for your paint, and also gives lots of handy tips and tricks along the way for those hacks that professional artists have already figured out. Next, we learn all about the basic techniques of watercolour. How to get paint down on the page to achieve
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specific effects, and which brushes to use in which scenarios. How water can be used as a major part of your arsenal to create lots of different results. How to take care of your brushes and ensure that they last as long as possible. With that covered and some basic exercises completed, we start to move on to the more serious techniques. Understanding colour, light, and shading seems much easier after following the instructions in the book. Francesco also gives some insight into what kind of work fashion illustrators can get, and who their clients are – alongside examples of his own work for the likes of Vogue Japan, Ted Baker, and GQ Mexico. In order to create a fully-realised character in each illustration, Francesco does not skip from the basics straight to the depiction of clothing.
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First, he explains to us everything we need to know about painting faces and hair, and how to express movement or make the images more dynamic through the use of poses. This is combined with an understanding of fabric and texture to help us understand how to create an illustration which is more than just a flat rendering of the pattern on clothing, but really brings the essence and vibe of the look. Now, finally, we move on to the tutorials. Yes, that’s right – all of this content, which is invaluable in itself, is only the lead-up to the main event! There are a series of twenty tutorials contained within the rest of the book, graded from the most simple all the way up to the most complex. In each case, there is a larger example of the finished image you are aiming for, helping you to see what your project should look like once complete. There are also step by step images showing how you will develop from the first pencil sketch, to the first layer of paint, onwards through the layers of detail and colour until you finish with those last touches. Alongside these are written instructions so you can understand precisely what to do in each step.
As an illustration teacher for several years, Francesco clearly has an understanding of where beginners need to be guided in order to build up a portfolio of not just their own work, but also of the techniques and tricks that will help them improve the fastest. And the journey doesn’t end when you have finished the last of the tutorials, as you might easily expect!
hobby, there is so much information contained here that you will get an unbelievable amount of sheer value out of it. It’s packed with handy tips and tricks that are worth their weight in gold, the kind of instructions that only someone who has a lot of experience in the medium can give.
To conclude, Francesco explains how to digitise your work, and how to use mixed media for even more stunning effects. He also explains his techniques for working in a live environment, such as at a fashion show, and how you can go on to develop your own personal style.
With Christmas coming up, this would be a perfect gift to anyone in your life who is a little bit artsy – or for yourself to kickstart a new hobby as we move into January! Best of all, we’re giving you an opportunity to win a copy of the book for yourself, so don’t miss out on that – the details are coming right up on the next page…
Overall, I would thoroughly recommend this book to anyone who is interested in fashion illustration. Whether as a career or simply a
Watercolor Fashion Illustration by Francesco Lo Iacono: published by David & Charles, RRP £15.99, on sale now.
Even the colours of the paint are picked out for you, along with explanations of which brush or tool to use in each case. And, best of all for fashion fans, the tutorials are all based on actual looks and products produced by top fashion houses such as Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu, Yves Saint Laurent, Burberry, and more. From the first illustration of a simple bag, you’ll move through the steps until you are able to produce a whole scene: a model wearing items of clothing from an editorial, along with the full background.
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GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY VEAWAY GIVEAWAY Francesco Lo Iacono Book EAWAY GIVEAWA GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY VEAWAY GIVEAWAY EAWAY GIVEAWA GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY VEAWAY GIVEAWAY EAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWA GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY VEAWAY GIVEAWAY EAWAY GIVEAWA GIVEAWAY GIVEAWAY LONDON RUNWAY
Enter the giveaways below on our Instagram* for a chance to win LONDON your RUNWAY own copy of Francesco Lo Iacono’s Watercolor Fashion Illustration Book!
1. REVIEW
A FREE copy will be given to any lucky participant How to enter: Follow @londonrunwaymag, @franloiacono & @dandcbooks on Instagram.
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Like our giveaway post! Tag a friend!
2. PRINT COPY
3 FREE copies will be given at random to issue 68 print orders! How to enter: Purchase a copy of issue 68 Done!
Enter both to increase your chances of being the lucky winner!
You can also purchase a copy of this book on https://www.francescoloiacono.com/book RUNWAY if you wanted to get one as a gift forLONDON friends and family or just cannot wait to own your own copy!
*MORE DETAILS WILL BE AVAILABLE ON OUR INSTAGRAM POSTS REGARDING THE GIVEAWAYS.
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V I N
+ O M I
Photography by Ian Clark
House of iKons: SLCC Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
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XMAS SHOPPING SPREE This month Cicilia proposes to you a great selection of Christmas shopping places around the capital.
Christmas is approaching rapidly, and although I'm personally not one of those starting the Christmas countdown 100 days in advance, I do love a good shopping spree. So, if you are on the hunt for particular gifts or are already in the shopping hysteria, here, you'll find everything you need. FAMILY PROOF DESTINATION WESTFIELD WHITE CITY One of London's most populated shopping destinations is Westfield White City mall, with an annual turnover of 8 million people. This famous shopping centre has another smaller branch in Stratford, but I recommend going to the West London one to have a wider choice.
The mall is located in White City and is easily reachable by public transport or car. Bear in mind that it is packed on the weekends, so I suggest going on evening weekdays to avoid hour-long queues. The best feature of this massive 450 shop mall is the variety of brands spanning from fast fashion brands to luxury labels hosted in a dedicated gallery. So, don't underestimate Westfield's size and get ready to wear comfy shoes! Download the mall's app to use the totem strategically placed everywhere in the centre so as not to miss any exciting places. I genuinely believe anything existing is sold in Westfield, so you won't be disappointed. I suggest dedicating this shopping spree at least a good four hours and having a look at the food court to grab a snack in between your shopping marathon. There are plenty of options for childrenswear too as well as a
All images via Canva
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dedicated playroom area if your younger ones fancy a little time out. I would not recommend Westfield for toy purchases, though. WEEKEND TOUR There are just a handful of weekends before Christmas, and I would undoubtedly dedicate at least one to Xmas shopping. A stone thrown away from Westfield White City, there is the famous Portobello Market. If you are a shopping pro, you can probably handle these two trips together; otherwise, just enjoy a Notting Hill tour on a Saturday morning. Indeed, on this day of the week, you can enjoy Portobello Market in full swing as there are all the sections from fashion to antiques. I love heading to this bucolic street and enjoying a mix of fashion and foodie moments in one
LONDON RUNWAY of the many super Instagrammable coffee shop. On Saturday the market is open from 9am to 7pm, while on Sunday it is closed. So, if you are looking for proper antique treasures like ancient chinoiserie sets, bric-abrac of any kind, and fashion stalls with a vintage flavour, this is a must place to visit for you. If you are not from London and want to enjoy a full shopping day, you can opt to visit Portobello Market in the morning and then head to the high street. Just hop on the central line in Notting Hill and get off at Marble Arch to explore Oxford Street. I recommend that classy and posh shoppers visit the never disappointing Bond Street to splash the cash on some fashion extravaganzas. If you are interested in particular art-related experiences, you can pop to 6 Burlington Garden to check the A.A Murakami Silent Fall exhibition, open until Summer 2022. If this Instagrammable exhibition is not for you, enjoy a good brunch in one of the many eateries in Mayfair before continuing your shopping session. When I am in Regent Street around Christmas time, I love having a little trip to Hamleys and being a child again. This street houses a considerable number of fashion brands, among them being the Burberry flagship store.
I recommend all the fashion lovers out there to check it out and see what new tech customer experience tools are. FASHIONABLE FOODIES Despite fashion being my main passion, I am often more interested in foodbased gifts like luxury hampers around Christmas time. Indeed, it is well-known that gifting a fashion item is risky due to sizing or personal taste while a good Christmas hamper never disappoints. For this reason, I propose Liberty in Soho and Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly Street. The first one is one of the most stunning niche department
stores ever existed. It dates back to the late 19th century, and it features beautifully engraved and decorated oakwood interiors. Liberty is well-known for its fabric collection, as it was the first London shop importing lavish Indian fabrics. It also hosts an extensive collection of interior design extravaganzas, tableware pieces, and an interesting haberdashery section. Liberty always hosts a Christmas shop on the fourth floor offering the craziest Christmas bobbles and tree decors. Check out the peacock and animal sets. These are for sure very tacky, but it is worth giving it a look just in case you fancy an all-glitter zebra adornment. Finally, check the food market on the ground floor, exceptionally equipped with beautifully packaged chocolate bars. Foodies should head to Fortnum & Mason, the refined food temple. Here, you will find a large selection of jams, teas, chocolate, alcohol, and much more typical Christmas products. On the second floor, you can find elegant watches and jewellery, and you will also spot cosy winter accessories, predominantly cashmere ones. If you are in Fortum & Mason for teatime, I would have a little stop at the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon located on the fourth floor; just remember to book a table in advance.
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VINTAGE XMAS Leaving aside the posh street of the city centre, let us take a look at another very cool area worth a Christmas shopping trip, Brick Lane. The easiest way to reach this vintage paradise is by taking the tube or train and get off at Liverpool Street Station. Have a lovely stroll in Spitalfields Market, one of the iconic places of East London, and you will find a large number of stalls selling mainly trinkets, particular accessories, and very colourful, almost hippie style garments. The market is open from 10am to 6pm and hosts a large number of food stalls. The market area is surrounded by many shops, both well-known brands and independent ones mixing fashion, plants, and interior design items. This is one of the latest, trendiest retail combinations, and I love shops selling various and highly aesthetic products. Within a ten-minute walk, you can reach Brick Lane and start your vintage shopping pilgrimage. Get ready to ransack big baskets and infinite long retails full of retro goodies. For Christmas gifts, I would choose accessories like bags, hats, and jewellery. In many places, you cannot exchange items, so getting clothes would be a bit risky. If you want to shop for yourself, definitely look for staple items like jeans, denim jackets or
basic sweaters and coats that can be a real bargain if bought in good vintage stores. On the opposite, look for fashion extravaganzas that can be ridiculously cheap so you will not waste money on something particular and maybe wear just once. If you are a DIY lover or simply like your garments customised, check if there is a big button basket close to the till. Almost all these shops sell spare sets of vintage buttons that are generally very particular or even from luxury brands. My favourite vintage shops in that area are Rokit and Beyond Retro; check them out as they offer a massive collection of vintage items. LAVISH CHRISTMAS Last, but for sure not least, is the iconic combo Harrods and Selfridges. I cannot help having my usual Christmas tour there as these two worldwide known department stores are nothing unexpected for a festive shopping trip. More than fashion items, I would suggest buying their Christmas decorations as they are very particular and have the limitededition collections that you can start
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collecting. At Selfridges, you can use the Elfridges, an in-store personal shopping service that can help you find gifts even for the pickiest of your loved ones. There is also a dedicated giftwrapping station that makes your shopping experience very festive and creative. Do not forget to check the Selfridges Market, just behind the department store building, open every afternoon during weekdays and from 12pm to 9pm during weekends. Here, you will find a good selection of Selfridges classic Christmas treats. Remember to book your tickets as entrances are limited due to Covid-19. If you love luxury Christmas products wrapped in sumptuous packages, head to Harrods. The selection of themed interior design items and small gifts is incredible, and even with a few dozen pounds, you will find amazingly wrapped products like candles, small leather goods, chocolate boxes, and much more. If you have to make the classic courtesy gift to, Harrods is the perfect choice to get simple yet highly aesthetic small gifts. This is just an overview of London's traditional and creative shopping places that should be on your Christmas shopping tour. My best advice for this Christmas season is for sure to have an excellent festive shopping session. After months of lockdowns and forbidden in-store shopping, we all want to see a bit of the Christmas atmosphere and fully enjoy the most magic moment of the year. In addition, I suggest dedicating a bit of your budget to independent shops like the ones in Brick Lane to help labels highly affected by the pandemic. You can find all Cicilia's projects visiting ciciliabrognoli.com
HOUSE OF iKONS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
JIL & JUG
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MARIIA PASHUK BRAND
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SIGRUN
SIMI SANDHU
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SITA COUTURE
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VILDIZ STOFFE
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LONDON RUNWAY
Candice brings you winter puffers to keep your inner signs warm and toasty during the colder months!
Aries March 21 - April 20
Herno - Single-breasted Quilted Down Jacket Comfortable and contemporary, this quilted jacket brings a sophisticated addition to any Aries’s winter wardrobe.
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Taurus April 21 - May 21
Chen-Peng - Jelly Fish Down Jacket This cocoon-like puffer will encompass a Taurus snuggly, providing the perfect mix of style and comfort.
Gemini May 22- June 21
Chen-Peng - Infinite Tubes Down Jacket Also by Chen-Peng, this ultra-bright and plush jacket will suit any of Gemini’s winter pieces while highlighting that usual brightness that always emits from these bubbly signs.
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Cancer June 22- July 22 Acne Studios - Belted Puffer Jacket Always one for feminine silhouettes, Cancers will fall in love with this puffer, which brings a modernised retro aesthetic with the high neck and belt tie.
Leo July 23- August 21 Acne Studios - Hooded Puffer Coat With the adjustable drawstring cinching the waist in perfectly, winter chills cannot stop a Leo from dressing their best!
Virgo August 22- September 23 Reserved - Quilted Vest For the practical, methodical Virgos, this multi-purpose vest acts as both a stylish staple piece and a warm blanket for those long work nights.
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Libra September 24- October 23 COS - Quilted FLWRDWN™ Puffer Coat Using a natural alternative to down padding made from wildflowers and recycled biological materials, this cute hybrid jacket will turn all heads to Libras.
Scorpio
October 24- November 22
Moncler - Bellevalia Coat With an insulating down filling and cinched waist illusion, Scorpios will find themselves reaching for this jacket during the colder months for both warmth and style.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Belstaff - Circuit Jacket Lightweight yet just as cosy, this jacket will last Sagittarius’s through any of their winter adventures!
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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Arket - Long Down Puffer Coat Made from recycled material and water repellent, Capricorns will lose themselves in the cosy design of this puffer, giving them a break from all of their pre-holiday to-do lists.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 ASOS Design - Recycled Puffer Jacket Although sage green is not usually a colour associated with winter, the trendsetting Aquarians were never ones to follow the fashion rule books!
Pisces February 20 - March 20 Chen-Peng - Caterpillar Puffer Jacket Pisceans will mentally and physically feel like they are up in the clouds with this puffer.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers
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HELEN KIRKUM
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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IA LONDON Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
LA PEARLIN Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
PATRICK CUPID Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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WHY THE REVIVAL OF TAYLOR SWIFT’S RED IS SO IMPORTANT This week, Ruth looks into the return of Taylor Swift’s album, Red, and its importance in today's societal culture and dynamics.
It is officially autumn. The leaves are beginning to turn red and gold, coats and scarves are being pulled from the back of wardrobes, and pumpkin spice is the scent of every coffee shop. It is the time where every Instagram is filled with the aesthetics of cosy nights in, scented candles, and crisp walks in the countryside. Above all, it is finally the month of Taylor Swift’s highly anticipated return to the music industry with the revival of her album, Red. The original Red was Swift’s fourth studio album, which was released by Big Machine Records on the 22nd of October 2012. It was a presentation of mainstream pop music, which was quite the distance from her country origins. This, and her exploration of heartbreak in the desolation of a romance, was met with positive reviews from critics, and earned her worldwide success. Several of the songs on the album went on to become chart classics, including ‘We Are Never Getting Back Together’ and the cultural phenomenon of the new milestone birthday, ’22.’ Swift, herself, was born on the 13th of December 1989 in Pennsylvania.
When she was a teenager, she moved to Nashville in the hopes of becoming a country music singer. She immediately signed a songwriting contract with Sony/ATV Music Publishing, and a year later, she was attached to a recording deal with Big Machine Records. She is widely considered to be one of
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the most successful musicians of all time, selling over 200 million records worldwide since her debut. Not only is she the winner of eleven Grammy Awards, but Swift is also renowned for being particularly philanthropic, in addition to advocating for feminism, women’s rights, and the necessity of artists owning their creativity.
LONDON RUNWAY It is no secret that, during Swift’s time of being present in the music industry, she has experienced a lot of change. Not only have most of her albums experimented with different genres, but it is fair to say that her style evolution has deepened significantly since she first arrived on the scene. When Red was first released, a lot of her fashion choices were still reminiscent of country chic, but with a spec of modernism. She, of course, wore a lot of red fabrics during this period, but she often paired the colour with white linen shirts, and fedora hats. It was a time of great contrast for Swift; when performing on stage, she would often choose tshirts and high-waisted shorts. At illustrious events, she wore a lot of bejewelled dresses that skimmed the thighs, or sleek garments with cutouts to reveal her willowy figure. However, she was also the face of retro fashion for a while, turning up to red carpets in conservative, fullskirted dresses with a string of pearls. It was a time in her fashion development that demanded concentration; it was as if every look
was perfected before she walked out of the door. Every style had a purpose, and yet, it still managed to look casual. Nobody knew where she would be going next, but perhaps, that was the point for Red was really just the beginning of her break to stardom.
Red meant a lot to both Swift and to those who love her music. It is an album that surrounds the subject of heartbreak, which is something most of us can understand all too well. The songs depict something of a storyline, starting with the torment of breaking up with someone you love, hurting over it, reminding yourself that you should never get back together, the joy when you realise you might be feeling better, and then falling back into the despair of a broken heart all over again. It is an album of pain through and through. Swift herself commented, “Musically and lyrically, Red resembled a heartbroken person. It was all over the place, a fractured mosaic of feelings that somehow all fit together in the end. Happy, free, confused, lonely, devastated, euphoric, wild, and tortured by memories past. Like trying on pieces of a new life, I went into the studio and experimented with different sounds and collaborators. And I'm not sure if it was pouring my thoughts into this album, hearing thousands of your voices sing the lyrics back to me in passionate solidarity, or if it was simply time, but something was healed along the way.” The album is something that we can all identify with in some way. And it is that, as well as the love for Swift herself, that makes us so protective of it.
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When Red was released, Swift was contractually signed to Big Machine Records and the music mogul, Scott Borchetta. As far as everybody knew, they had a good working relationship, with Swift releasing six studio albums under the label from 2006 to 2017. However, after the release of Reputation, Swift realised that her contract had expired, and she decided to take her music in another direction, by signing to a completely new label, Republic Records. This deal would secure her the rights to own the masters of any albums she wrote in the future. By this time, Swift had reached ultimate worldwide success. It seemed as if nothing could stop her. She was the queen of the entire industry, and she was intent on releasing even more new music. Then in 2019, the record executive Scooter Braun acquired the rights to Big Machine Records. This meant that he and his company, Ithaca Holdings, became the owners and sole profiteers of Swift’s first six albums, including Red.
But Braun did not stop there, as he allegedly refused to let Swift perform her songs at the AMA awards, where she won ‘Artist of the Decade.’ Soon after, Swift announced that she would re-record the first six studio albums, so that she could own the masters of her own music once more. Braun seemingly dismissed this, as in November 2020 he sold the masters to an American private equity firm called Shamrock Holdings for $300 million. This deal was struck under the conditions that Braun will continue to benefit from Swift’s albums. Swift began re-recording that very month. This is the reason why the revival of Red is so important. It only seems right that artists in the music industry should have ownership over their work. Especially for Swift, who has written every single song on every album since the beginning. Her songs are pieces of her heart, her truth, and as it currently stands, she can never be the owner of her original recordings ever again. And with an album as
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personal and meaningful as Red, it seems all the more harrowing that someone else profits from her artistry. Red is believed by many to be Swift’s best album. It’s a pop record. But for those who love Swift, it is so much more than that. It is a cathedral for the heartbroken, a safe haven for those who know sorrow. In this album, Swift raged with relentlessness, out for blood of the person who had hurt her. Her pain screams from the music. And that is why so many people are so attached to Red, because it is evident that Swift really, really cared. It was the first record where it felt like Swift was discovering her emotional power. It’s dramatic. It’s the epitome of feeling so deeply and hurting so intensely that you feel insane. It is incredibly idiosyncratic. And that is why this revival of Red is so important. Swift deserves to own her music, to take back the piece of her heart that meant the most.
You can read more of Ruth’s work on Instagram by following @thewriterruth.
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