London Runway Issue 69 - The Silver Issue by London Runway

LRSA NOMINATIONS . 2022 NEW YEAR GUIDE . BREAKING BAD'S WARDROBE . HARUN RUNE INTERVIEW

CHRYSAORA PACIFIC . HOUSE OF IKONS . AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON . MISS COMMONWEALTH

ISSUE 69 27TH DECEMBER 2021

THE SILVER ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Ruth Croft Advertising enquiries - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Helen Anthony, Paul Magen Jewellery, Heather L Macgregor, Stefania Sanna, Anna Grigoreva, Kristina Kiriakidi, Matvey Bozhyi, Olga Danilova, Gella Sabitova, Gusarova Nina, Julia Yatel, Liliia Fardyhola, Stradivarius, Seigar, Kate Nichiporenko, Julia Baer, Tatyana Androsova, Alyonka Gucci Model, Valeria Beychuk, Alina Gumilevskaya, Evgeny Yurzhikhi, Victoria Bagutskaya, Julia Che, Ivan Knyazev, House of Fabrosanz, Mary Martin, Soboye, University of Northampton Graduate Fashion Show, Emil Vidal Carr, Local, Magic Wizhes, Kanadel, Noureen Dhanani, Siddartha Tytler, Angrish, Be Unique Be You, Athea Couture, Dis is Me Couture, Ethnicroyals, Gary Pie, Never Face, Oyebimpe, Eyora, Aynaghor, Naika, Naz Fashions, Pinky Promise, Women's Wish, Angel Nokonoko, Thomas Woods, Hannah Whittaker Special thanks: House of iKons & Harun Rune

Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene

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CONTENTS

20 VISUALS

93 WORDS

Helen Anthony

LRSA Nominations and Public Voting

Embrace Your Silver (cover editorial)

20 The Most Influential Fashion Moments of 2021

New Faces

Portfolio

To the Twenty-somethings of 2022: 10 Things to Take Into the New Year

Daily Occurrence (editorial)

Africa Fashion Week London Part 1

How Breaking Bad's Wardrobe Says so Much More

Style (Conscious) Guide: Silver Stunners

New Brand: Chrysaora Pacific F/W 66 Collection by Jeanifer Tandean

House of iKons

Book Club: Bewilderment

Watercolor (editorial)

Interview: Harun Rune

India Fashion Week London

Grey Hair is Not Revolutionary. It's Normal.

116

House of iKons Kids Fashion

118 Your Style Horoscope

Africa Fashion Week London Part 2

Asian Fashion and Bridal Show

104

Miss Commonwealth

109

The Big Question

122

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Happy holidays! I hope everybody is still in the after-effects of festive cheer and celebrations. For those who have concluded their Christmas or December plans, take a breather by indulging in the FINAL issue of 2021, the Silver Issue. In this issue, you can read our tips on navigating the new year, as well as reflect on past events and trends. Be on the lookout for our 2021 Anthology featuring all of our editorials from this year. As well, thank you to those who participated in our Christmas advent calendar; for the winners, your prizes will be sent out to you in January, unless you received a digital or nonphysical prize! (i.e. photoshoots) In that case, we will reach out via email or social media DMs. In our efforts to highlight and promote small, sustainable businesses, our LRSA competition is well underway with the nominations in and live for voting! To see who is going through to the next round, you can read the article in this issue. With instructions on how to vote

for your winner, you can also see little blurbs of the nominated brands/persons to give you an idea of their brand ethos. Keep a lookout on our social media platforms for further announcements on our awards ceremony date and other updates!

and political issues surrounding racism and discrimination and environmental issues regarding sustainability and ethicality, but through the adversity, we became more resilient and unified. We will not go into 2022 unprepared!

Additionally, this issue features an interview with London-based creative and rapper Harun Rune to keep you up to date on his recent ventures and releases. House of iKons also announces an exciting event in February for those wanting to attend and enjoy a show that never disappoints. Our usual galleries and editorials fill this end of the year issue, so there is a lot to keep you occupied and before we roll right into 2022 in a few days! Though that may sound daunting, I think I can speak for a majority of us that we are ready for the new year to come!

On a more celebratory note to cap everything off, we are happy to announce that our editor has given birth to a healthy, angelic baby boy and is feeling that motherhood bliss! Although we would love to have her back with us soon, we are all so excited for her and her family and the new memories they will make as a family of three now!

Similar to 2020, 2021 has not been kind to us, but we pushed through nonetheless! There is definitely tons of more work to do regarding social

We thank everybody who has supported us and the magazine thus far. Without you, we would not be in our 5th year and 69th release. Grateful and appreciative, we hope to continue providing even better content in the many years to come! Warmly,

CANDICE WU

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LONDON RUNWAY SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS Here are your nominations for the London Runway Sustainability Awards! Moving onto the public voting, read about each of the nominated brands/persons and see who best fits the categories! Then, make your vote! The public voting will close on January 15th. For a more festive celebration of the finalists where commemorations and prizes will be issued, we will also be hosting the Virtual Awards Ceremony afterwards! (Keep an eye on our socials for announcements.) If you’re unable to make the awards ceremony, the winners will be published in the January issue so don’t you worry!

HOW TO VOTE:

Read about each nomination with the brand/person's details to give yourself an idea of the brand’s/person’s ethos and efforts in sustainability. May the most sustainable triumph!

Bella Sol Swim (@bellasolswim), based in Mallorca, creates handmade swimwear. This brand aims to have as little footprint impact as possible, and its designs are mainly inspired by the 70s.

BEST FASHION DESIGNER These are the designers who devote themselves and their work to environmentally friendly practices and methods.

Emma, founder of ELB handmade (@elb_handmade), is a UK based designer who creates beautiful handmade lingerie sets. The brand does not use single-use plastic for packaging and works as much as possible with UK-based fabric suppliers.

Vote on our social media platforms below by liking the brand or person’s post in each category, or fill out the form on our website! SOCIAL MEDIA TAGS: Instagram/Twitter/Facebook: @londonrunwaymag Website: www.londonrunway.co.uk/

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Strictly Business (@strictlybizzness.j) is a brand of handmade jewellery. The beauty of these colourful, playful, and sustainable accessories is their imperfectness.

LONDON RUNWAY

Manimekala (@manimekalavf) works with social enterprises to create products with colourful aesthetics through truly unique prints and embroidery. The brand’s goal is to make wearers and makers feel empowered.

Pharoh Farrukh is the face behind House of Aristocrats (@houseofaristocrats), a fashion upcycling house. This brand’s designs are definitely eye-catching and perfect for an offbeat night out.

Lage Jewellery (@lage_jewellery) based in London and Lisbon, takes inspiration from movies to create gender fluid pieces telling reimagined stories of alternative realities. Lage works with Hatton Garden through casting and gold plating workshops supporting the long-lasting local heritage of craftsmanship.

Felt Fancy (@feltfancy) creates handmade earrings made in Hampshire by designer Eleanor using recycled sterling silver where possible, felt from sustainably sourced wool, and more reclaimed materials. The attention to detail is also in the packaging, which is obviously eco-friendly and often made of wool.

BEST SUSTAINABLE ACCESSORIES BRAND There is also no shortage of sustainable and ethical accessory options. Check out these unique brands for inspiration. Beadsontoastt (@beadsontoastt) is a Newcastle based handmade & bespoke jewellery brand using new and upcycled beads. Its Instagram page is teeming with fantastic colours that make you want to ditch nonbeaded jewellery.

Julie Nicaisse Jewellery (@julienicaissejewellery) is a Belgian designer UK-based brand inspired by nature. Each creation is made using eco-friendly production methods and ethical materials— fairtrade gold, recycled metals, and ethically sourced gemstones.

Alison Fern Jewellery (@alisonfernjewellery) is a modern brand inspired by art and nature. Femininity and strength are the characteristics of each piece. Produced in small batches to reduce waste, the metals are also sourced from trusted suppliers.

CRUELTY-FREE AND ETHICAL MAKEUP BRANDS Ajoy Sahu (@ajoysahu) offers modern, conscious, and wearable pieces combining positivity and individuality. Her aim is to make every customer discover their inner beauty. Traditional craft techniques and innovation mix together, promoting slow fashion.

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Cruelty-free and ethical makeup brands that make us feel and look amazing! PHB Ethical Beauty (@phbbeauty) creates products that are 100% natural, vegan and cruelty-free & palm oil-free. People’s beauty should not impact the planet, and the products of this brand are a demonstration of that.

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Odylique by Essential Care (@odylique) is a UK brand created out of necessity by its founder, who, like her entire family, has always had allergy-prone skin. Experiments, a lot of dedication, and knowledge of herbology more than thirty years ago gave birth to this ethical cosmetic brand.

BEST SUSTAINABLE STORE What could be better than buying from a brand that pays attention to sustainability in its store design? Artisan & Fox (@artisan&fox) is on a journey to discover these hidden artisans and their extraordinary craftsmanship. The brand seeks to preserve artisan heritage by co-designing pieces with its artisans focusing on fair and transparent production and sustainability.

AIDA (@aidashoreditch) is a clothing store based in Shoreditch. The brand’s focus is a multi-concept experience that reflects its creativity and ideas. Good coffee, fashion, and community projects find their way into this delightful shop in East London.

Did you think coffee grounds were useless? UpCircle (@upcirclebeauty) is a cosmetic brand that was born from the idea of reusing coffee grounds, of which more than 350 tons have already been used.

Our Little Tribe (@ourlittletribe.co.uk) is a gender-neutral brand for childrenswear. The garments are often reversible, in organic cotton, and joyfully designed. Comfort and quality go hand in hand to accompany children in the most fun moments.

Awake Organics (@awakeorganics) always uses 100% natural, and they have a small supply chain with 89% of their ingredients and packaging made in the UK. A growing family business based in Buckinghamshire, every product is carefully formulated using clever, organic, and sustainable ingredients. Rhimani (@rhimaniuk) was born from Izzy’s love for Kenya and wildlife preservation. During her placement year in Nairobi, Izzy fell in love with the handmade bead jewellery she saw in the Maasai Market, inspiring her venture.

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BEST SUSTAINABLE INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR The word influencer goes hand in hand with fashion and can do the same with sustainability. Individuals dedicated to promoting a more sustainable lifestyle are the stars of this category.

Again, we have House of Aristocrats followed by Rosie Okotcha (@rosieokotcha), a London fashion lover particularly attentive to thrifted and sustainable fashion.

LONDON RUNWAY Farihah Choudhury - Easy Peasy Sustainability (@easypeasysustainability) on Instagram, is a plant-based public health nutritionist with a passion for sustainable fashion. She promotes a more sustainable lifestyle enclosed in colourful Instagram story collections not to be missed.

THE BIGGEST SUSTAINABLE DISCOVERY This category consists of those who have created a recent policy, change, or reform that has opened the way to ecological change and positivity.

Allplants (@allplants) supports a 100% vegetable diet and creates tasty and easy-to-prepare meals for anyone who wants to follow their philosophy. From sourcing products to delivery, everything is sustainable to make our ecosystem healthier.

Currensea (@currensea) is the first direct debit travel card based in London that connects directly with your existing bank account. Partnered with Plastic Bank, they help to remove plastic from the ocean whenever people spend abroad.

Jazmine Rogers is the face behind That Curly Top (@thatcurlytop) and is a Black and Mexican creator who loves sustainability, fashion, and super colourful outfits. Recycleye (recycleye.com) is a growing technology company that uses advanced machine learning, computer vision, and robotics to commodify waste, reinventing the recycling economy through its technology-driven strategic decisions.

Unpacked (@unpackaged) packaging is wasted every year to pack small portions or foods that do not need a container. It paved the way for the zero-waste retail business model of buying in bulk, which is now a global trend.

Images via respective Instagrams and Canva

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LONDON RUNWAY

HELEN ANTHONY Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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THE MOST INFLUENTIAL FASHION MOMENTS OF 2021 Ruth Croft reveals the most popular moments in fashion from 2021.

It has been a fabulous year for fashion. In the last twelve months we have seen tremendous change in all aspects of society, and it is safe to say that that has been reflected in the creative industry. Every year we see designers discover new ways to work with fashion, but in the midst of a pandemic, this has become even more of an explorative experience than ever before. In some ways, it meant that there were greater expectations for stylists to succeed, to create looks that would be forever remembered. Whilst it is important to recognise everyone’s dedication over the last year, there are only a few fashion moments that can be crowned the most influential. It is a hard task, but nevertheless it must be done. So, here are our top style moments that had the most effect on society and pop culture in 2021.

THE MET GALA The Met Gala is the annual fundraising event for Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It is widely believed to be the biggest evening in fashion, and is attended by the worlds’ most iconic stars, creatives, and designers. The Costume Institute exhibition always portrays the theme of the significant year, which the guests are supposed to reflect in their fashion choices on the night. This year’s theme was ‘In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.’ At every event there are those who take the idea seriously, and walk the red carpet in designs that thrill the entire world. This year, it was Kim Kardashian who took that crown. When she appeared at the Met, there was a lot of speculation whether it

was truly her, for she was wearing a black Balenciaga body suit with a full face covering. It was reportedly designed by Demna Gvasalia, who happens to be the creative director of the fashion brand. Some regarded the style as ‘BDSM chic.’ It naturally sparked significant conversation across social media, with many commenting on how peculiar the look was. But, despite it’s strange appeal, there is no doubt that it is one of the most iconic styles from the event. Similarly, viewers loved the look that Billie Eilish showcased, with her Hollywood glamour and Marilyn Monroe hairstyle. Her peach-coloured dress was designed by Oscar de la Renta, and paired with diamond jewellery. She wore the gown on one condition, and that was that Oscar de la Renta would not use fur in any of their designs in the future. Eilish, known for her advocacy of animal rights and veganism, thanked the company for their compliance on Instagram.

Swift reflected on the evening and her beautiful gown, writing, “The fans are the reason we’re floating tonight, and we’ll never forget it.”

THE MTV VMAS It is one of the biggest nights for musicians across the world, and the celebrities did not disappoint with their iconic looks this year. The one that was the most eye-catching was Megan Fox. She turned up to the illustrious event wearing a Thierry Mugler dress, made of a sheer, golden material, through which her bejewelled thong could be seen. She paired the garment with Jimmy Choo high heels. The design immediately went viral on Twitter, with people commenting that her look was the most daring of the evening. But Fox wasn’t the only one gathering attention. Lil Nas X stormed down the red carpet in a lilac Versace number, which was half dress, half suit. It was reportedly his take on a prom dress; glittering, bedazzled, and swathed with an elegant train. He went on to win ‘Video of the Year.’

TAYLOR SWIFT AT THE GRAMMY’S It was a momentous night for music when Taylor Swift won ‘Album of the Year’ for Folklore at the 63rd annual Grammy Awards. But the one thing people talked more about than the award was her dress. It was designed by Oscar de la Renta; a pale pink gown, covered in hand-embroidered flowers, alongside a matching face mask. The tulle minidress is actually available to buy from Moda Operandi, but it will set you back nearly £9,000. It was an absolutely stunning look, somehow capturing the very essence of Swift’s winning album; late summer, florally delicate, and ever so meaningful.

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Image via Wikimedia

LONDON RUNWAY EARTHSHOT PRIZE AWARDS

LONDON FASHION WEEK

The Earthshot Prize ceremony took place at the Alexandra Palace in London, for the first time ever this year. The event was hosted by Prince William, in the hope of raising awareness of the environmental struggles the world is currently facing, and how we can prevent further harm. Many influential celebrities attended the occasion, including Sir David Attenborough, who made a rising speech on how there is still time for us to establish change, to reverse the effects we have had on the earth, and make the environment a utopia once more. In response to this effort, everyone who attended wore designs that they have previously owned, or worn to other events in the past. The Duchess of Cambridge was seen in a lavender dress by Alexander McQueen that she had last modelled in 2011. Similarly, Emma Watson stunned the audience in a custom-made outfit that was designed from Oxfam wedding dresses. The dress was sourced from one of Harris Reed’s collections, ‘FOUND.’ The event itself was very well-received by viewers, who understood the importance of such a ceremony.

Whether it’s London, Milan, Paris, or New York, Fashion Week is one of the most revolutionary events in fashion every year. People travel from across the world to see the shows, to really witness the beauty and artistry that the designers, creators, and models have produced. And this year was no exception, with London Fashion Week taking the world by storm in September. One of the most influential appearances was Vivienne Westwood’s new collection, inspired by designs she first created in the summer of 1998. Westwood is renowned for her activism surrounding climate change and environmentalism, and that was illustrated through her use of recycled materials. On a similar note, Erdem produced a collection that emulates the vivacity of London itself, a so-called love letter to glamour and individualism. These designs presented a natural look, using waxed cotton, which can be reused on a sustainable level. This is hopefully the beginning of more

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fashion brands using eco-friendly fabrics in their designs, which really, is the greatest style of all. If we were to write every influential fashion moment from 2021, we would fill the entire magazine and more. It really has been a fantastic year for the industry. The designs we have seen in the past few months alone have been iconic enough to spark revolutions across social and traditional media. There’s one thing for certain, and that is we will be taking these influences with us into the new year to create an even more illustrious era in fashion than ever before.

You can read more of Ruth’s work on Instagram by following @thewriterruth.

Images via Wikimedia

EMBRACE YOUR SILVER

Jewellery Designer: Paul Magen Jewellery; www.paulmagen.co.uk @paulmagenjeweller Model: Heather L Macgregor; www.heathermacgregor.com @heatherlmacgregor Makeup Artist: Stefania Sanna; www.stefaniamakeupartist.co.uk @stefaniamakeupartistry Photography - Fil Mazzarino; www.filmazzarino.com; @filmazzarino

Heather wears: A pair of signature organic silver rings from Melt Collection, a silver pendant in an asymmetrical design, a silver statement rings wide textured

Heather wears: 3 silver statement rings 1 wide textured band 2 Bold ring with large oval green cubic zirconia 3 Bold ring with large oval pink cubic zirconia.

Heather wears: Earring oval white cubic zirconia claw set in silver; pendant oval white cubic zirconia claw set in silver; rings textural silver bands

Heather wears: A statement cuff handcrafted in sterling silver with reticulated edges

Heather wears: Top ring Cabochon aquamarine set in gold and silver with an organic design. Bottom ring Cabochon blue topaz set in gold and silver with an organic design

Heather wears: Tapered silver hoop earring; handmade silver necklace consisting crescent shapes flowing into each other

Heather wears: Ring organic silver band; silver handmade with a textured finish

Heather wears: A set of textured silver rings

Olivia wears: Heather wears: Sleeveless Top ringCotton concave Shirt organic - £90, silver Suyeon band; Choi Bottom silver stacking ring set with white cubic zirconia

Heather wears: A cluster of stone set statement rings in sterling silver with large oval amethyst quartz and tourmaline

Heather wears: A cluster of stone set statement rings in sterling silver with fine oval kyanite stone and round shaped sodalite stone

TO THE TWENTY-SOMETHINGS OF 2022: 10 THINGS TO TAKE INTO THE NEW YEAR As the end of the year approaches, Jessica Carvalho dishes out valuable advice to keep in mind for the next 365 days. In case you have not noticed, I love sticking my nose into peoples’ business. I’m a writer, and frankly, that’s at least half of the job. I maybe love being nosy just as much as I love to air out my experiences for the world to read, but that is partly because one man’s trash is another one’s treasure. In this case, one awkward experience of mine is another person’s “how to avoid” guide. However, instead of a story, I have opted for a more forward approach because, honestly, it is what warrants. Plus, I am sure uncalled-for advice from someone you only know through words beats advice from your meddling relatives.

Here are ten things I wish I had been told myself at the beginning of 2021; two handfuls of life lessons I will carry for the rest of my twenties, and you should too. Do not be disheartened by the title should you not fit into the specified age bracket – it is never too early nor too late to learn a thing or two.

1. Celebrate You!

Okay, whilst this one may seem pretty straightforward, it is undoubtedly easier said than done. When the clock strikes midnight, we will have made it to another year, powered through 365 days regardless of how tough they were, and picked ourselves up keeping right on day in day out. Not a lot of people can say that. Making it to the end of a year – physically, mentally, and emotionally – is an impressive feat, and one that should never be overlooked.

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2. Nurture your mind.

The first three months of this year had a slightly bleaker vibe than the 2020 lockdowns, further worsened by the gloominess, cold, and general slump that comes running around the corner as soon as it hits the 2nd of January (oh, the things I’d give to back to playing Animal Crossing in my garden in the middle of that one April heatwave). However, that time reminded me of how easy it is to slip into negative habits in the face of short days and long nights. Make no mistake – I am the number one advocate for Netflix marathons in Greater London but remaining passive and sedentary for an extensive amount of time will do you no good. Recently, I have found that reading provides the perfect escape between lectures and other demands, and I have even re-ignited

my love for graphic art lately. Meditation, exercise, cooking, designing, cloud watching – there is something for everyone.

3. Invest in a good pair of shoes.

A slightly less “deep” suggestion, but as we return(somewhat) to normal, I found some of my lockdown impulsive buys were definitely not made for walking. Whatever aesthetic you identify yourself with most – or all of them if you’re like me, a good pair of shoes go a long way. Pun fully intended.

4. Comparison will ruin you.

Another “easier said than done” from me, but if I was to choose my most valuable piece of advice, it would likely be this one. Social media plays a big role in this, almost facilitating the negative emotions that come with comparing yourself to others. We typically only post our happiest moments online, so what we see is just that, the highlights of one’s life.

I finished my undergraduate in June, and throughout the summer it felt like I was thrown into the deep end. Some of my classmates went into medicine; some were travelling the world; some were starting families, and I was focusing on making it through each day without feeling entirely useless. At the time, it almost felt like I was destined to coast through life and simply remain unsure, but now, I am studying for a master’s degree and am focused on having the career I have always dreamed of. Life may come at you fast, but it is not a race. Everything will happen in due time.

5. Live outside of the box.

Whilst the past year has not quite been the same, it does not mean that it has not provided us with plenty of opportunities to try something different. Routine may be great, but every now and then we need to deviate from what we know to shock our systems back to life. This may be a spontaneous week away in Bali for

some or to simply order a different cocktail for others; the sentiment still stands. Think, work, eat, and breathe outside of the box.

6. Stay focused, but not too much.

Do not get me wrong, achieving your dreams is remarkable, but you should not maintain tunnel vision to the extent where life passes you by. There are plenty of things in the world we gloss over with our eyes wide open, imagine when we are not looking at all. Though, not all distractions are welcome; for those, you are more than welcome to turn a blind eye.

7. Tell people you love them.

I am incredibly lucky to say I have not experienced grief on a personal level this year, but it does not mean it has not been marked by its fair share of loss on a global scale. We may kid ourselves that we have all the time in the world, but time is fleeting, ticking by mercilessly even when we so desperately wish it would stop. Hug your parents a little longer, laugh a little louder with your siblings, and love unconditionally. One can never be too sure of the time they have with their loved ones, so make the most of it.

8. Take your vitamins.

I am one of the survivors of the supercold that haunted us at the start of October, and I have to say, it scared me into taking care of myself and strengthening my immune system. It was the sickest I had ever been in my 21 years of life, and I would not wish those feverish, bedridden two weeks on anyone. Getting sick right now is no joke. Furthermore, I also had Covid at the end of March 2020, and the loss of taste and smell alone was terrifying enough for me to get vaccinated, which you should too. If you feel otherwise, I am afraid all I can say is good luck, and for everybody’s sake, get educated. Sincerely, a biomedical scientist.

9. Sever tangled strings.

I will leave this one mostly up for interpretation, but, if it isn’t serving you, throw it away. I mean the relationships

where you find yourself being the one to carry it or the ones that leave you feeling drained. Regardless of the situation, you are worthy of connections that add to your life, rather than take from it. Perhaps a more controversial stance of mine, but this rule applies to family too. Blood may be thicker than water, but it can be cut just as easily as paper.

10. Pats on the back all around.

Though closer to normal than ever, 2021 packed a punch just as mean as its predecessor. The last 52 weeks were a whirlwind, seeing plenty of highs and lows for everybody on this planet. And yet we still made it, so next time, try to be less harsh on yourself and celebrate even the small wins. Some might even say those are sweeter. Give yourself a pat on the back! And after all that was said, I hand it over to you. Wishing you the happiest holiday season and a wonderful new year!

You can find more of Jessica’s work on her Instagram @whatjesstypes.

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: KRISTINA Name: Kristina Kiriakidi Age: 23 Location: Mikhailovka, Volgograd Region Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 3 years Where are you from originally? Mikhailovka, Volgograd Region Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I always feel the camera and the

photographer; I know how best to stand in certain place and what the photographer wants. What would surprise people to know about you? I dance, I like to edit videos, take pictures and take pictures of something beautiful around me. What are your modelling ambitions? I am interested in photo shoots in advertising; I think to gain eхperience and try myself in a more serious direction.

Photographer: Anna Grigoreva @angrisss Model: Kristina Kiriakidi @kiri_kris18

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: MATVEY Name: Bozhyi Matvey Age: 12 Location: Crimea Agency: A&T Fashion How long have you been modelling for? 4 months Where are you from originally? Ukraine Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Matvey is a beatmaker. Recently,

Matvey even had customers of his musical beats. What would surprise people to know about you? Matvey is an excellent student at school. 2 years ago he received an award for drawing “Me and my family” from the Minister of the Environment himself. What are your modelling ambitions? Matvey dreams of becoming a famous actor and acting in comedies.

Model: Matvey Bozhyi @bozhyi_matvey Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Olga Danilova @danilovaolga.makeup Photographer/Retoucher: Gella Sabitova @gellionphoto Wardrobe Stylist: Gusarova Nina @gnina_style

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: LILIIA Name: Liliia Fardyhola Age: 18 Location: Portugal Agency: Face Models How long have you been modelling for? I have been modelling for 2 years. Where are you from originally? Originally I am from Ukraine, and for many years, I lived in Portugal. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I think it's my facial expressions. I can handle them very well, make any on shooting, and consider it as my talent.

What would surprise people to know about you? People are surprised that I can speak five different languages: English, Portuguese, Spanish, Russian, and of course my native Ukrainian. What are your modelling ambitions? When I started my career some years ago, I wasn't worried about getting paid. I wanted to get experience in modelling, learn how to pose professionally, and see my name and face in fashion. Project by project, all the time I learn about my pros and cons. What I am good at and where I still need to improve myself. This process of learning through doing never ends. I want to continue enjoying my work and ready to strive for more!

Photographer: Julia Yatel @makeup_yatel WB: http://juliayatel.kavyar.site Model: Liliia Fardyhola @Face Models @liaosadchenko PT: http://www.pinterest.com/liaosadchenko Fashion Designer: Stradivarius @stradivarius Makeup Artist: Julia Yatel @makeup_yatel

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TIME & RITUALS BY SEIGAR This collage series explores the concepts of social rites and their connection to the passing of time. The compositions portray different motives for social gatherings such as music, sports, drinking, eating, party, love, religion, travel, and fashion. The pop prism brings some drama and tension pulsating through the clocks ticking from one generation to another. I have experimented with some paints and cassettes to reinforce the camp effects in the form of this work. Time & Rituals intends to remind viewers of the essence of the Latin phrase carpe diem. The overall message is to play the tape and get the boarding pass, get ready, and go because the time is now. Full gallery: flickr.com/photos/theblueheartbeat/albums/72157720 134624084

portfolio piece Seigar is a passionate travel, street, socialdocumentary, conceptual, and pop visual artist based in Tenerife, Spain. He feels obsessed with the pop culture that he shows in his works. He has explored photography, video art, and collage. He also writes for some media. His main inspirations are traveling and people. He is a philologist and works as a secondary school teacher. He is a self-taught visual artist, though he has done a two years course in advanced photography and one in cinema and television. He has participated in several exhibitions and his works have been featured in many publications worldwide. He writes for Dodho Magazine and for The Cultural about pop culture. His last interest is documenting identity. Recently, he received the Rafael Ramos García International Photography Award. He also shares art and culture in his blog: Pop Sonality.

Webpage: seigar.wordpress.com Instagram: instagram.com/jseigar Galleries: flickr.com/photos/theblueheartbeat/albums Blog: popsonality.blogspot.com

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daily occurrence

Model: Kate Nichiporenko @katnichi Stylist/Fashion Designer/Accessory Designer: Julia Baer @iamyourbaer Exhibit Designer: Tatyana Androsova @androsovadecor Model: Alyonka Gucci Model @alyonka_miroshnikova Model: Valeria Beychuk @valeriya_beychuk Model: Alina Gumilevskaya @gumilevskaya Model: Evgeny Yurzhikhi @bananacompany Photographer: Victoria Bagutskaya @victory_bagucka Fashion Designer/Accessory Designer: Julia Che @juliache.fashion Creative Director: Ivan Knyazev @knyazevivan

BREAKING BAD’S WORLD OF COLOUR In this week’s article, Thomas Woods explores hit show ‘Breaking Bad’ and the utilisation of colour in its wardrobe, and more specifically how colour can transcend simply acting as a visual aid. As a recent media studies graduate, I have spent a lot of time undertaking various types of textual analysis, with these visual analyses often being based in film and TV. From Stranger Things to Only Fools and Horses in the world of TV, to rom-com Bridget Jones’ Diary and psychological thriller mother! in film, I spent much of my time searching for the little details. I found that after taking a step back from the screen, some of the most intricate of details were right there in front of me. After rewatching Breaking Bad for the third time, the show’s detailed focus on colour became very apparent to me. Even showrunner Vince Gilligan widely acknowledges his infatuation with the little details, and specifically colour: “At the beginning of every series we would have a meeting in which I would discuss with the production designer and the costume designer about the specific palettes we would use for any given character throughout the course of the year”. Avid fans took this theory and ran with it, with the infamous ‘colour wheel’ concept being a big discussion point within the fandom. Before I begin, you don’t have to have seen the show to give this a read, it’s for everyone! But do be warned, there may be a spoiler or two...

Images via AMC

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OVERVIEW The show’s overarching storyline is this: ex-chemistry teacher Walter White, the show’s protagonist, is diagnosed with lung cancer. After receiving this news, he realises that he will be leaving his family without any money to survive. In a turn of events, he reunites with his former pupil Jesse Pinkman, who is a low-level methamphetamine cook, to create the best methamphetamine on the market. This all takes place as Walter’s DEA (Drug Enforcement Agent) brother in-law, Hank Schrader, hunts down the mastermind behind the market’s newest drug.

THE ‘COLOUR WHEEL’ THEORY In essence, this concept defines each character as having a colour that represents their current situation or mental state within a certain point in the series, with most of the characters having relatively consistent colour palettes. Most interestingly though, many of the characters’ colour palettes contrast each other, creating a visual tension between two characters that underlines their personalities and how they might clash throughout certain points in the show. While it is almost impossible to track every single colour in the series, the following looks at the overarching trends of each central character and how their wardrobe colours either stay the same, or change.

WALTER WHITE At the beginning of the series, Walter is placed in very drab neutral colours, with lighter beiges, yellows, and greens being the standouts. In the beginning, his yellow wardrobe is often concealed by layers of beige and this suggests that the emerging acts of danger and criminality Walt gets involved in are starting to rise to the surface. Most of the time, the colour yellow in the show is associated to any person or part of the meth business, ranging from meth kingpin, and Walt’s boss, Gustavo Fring’s chicken shop business ‘Los Pollos Hermanos’, which has yellow uniforms, to Walt’s hazmat suit that is donned during meth cooking. Overall, yellow is an instrumental colour throughout and has several connotations, ranging from cowardice, pleasure, and caution, to ultimately danger and criminality. When watching the show, you may not even notice the relevance of colour all too much if you’re not looking for it, but it undoubtedly exists. It subconsciously places indicators in the minds of the viewers, subtly signifying how certain characters should be perceived.

As the show progresses, Walt’s wardrobe trends darker as he progresses further and further into the criminal underbelly of the meth business, moving away from the drab earth tones of beige and grey and into blacks, blues, and greens. Despite prior discussion around the colour yellow, green is Walt’s most prominent colour and it represents greed, money, growth, and envy - being very much in line with how Walt’s character merges into a meth tyrant that will stop at nothing to get his way. Green is also a combination of colours blue and yellow, both represented predominantly by Skyler and Jesse, respectively.

SKYLER WHITE Skyler White is the wife of Walter, being a key component of Breaking Bad in how she acts as a pure, loyal, and ultimately sad character that characterises the colour blue, often donning royal blue blouses and shirts. Walt’s colour of green sits directly inbetween Skyler’s blue and Jesse’s yellow on the colour wheel, being torn between the pure nature of his old family life and the dangerous existence that Jesse

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represents. Blue is also the colour of Walt’s signature meth, which is the purest on the market. This represents the pure intentions of Walt at the beginning of this process, which was to ultimately provide for his family come his inevitable death, whilst highlighting the duality of these pure intentions and how they have become mared by Walt’s decision making. As a character, Skyler is somebody with a deep and underlying sadness in relation to Walt’s business dealings, as seen in one scene where she descends into the family pool in a suicide attempt, submerging herself in the blue. Her wardrobe often involves darker shades of blue, potentially representing her deep-rooted loyalty to her family’s well-being as she continues to hide Walt’s big secret.

JESSE PINKMAN Jesse Pinkman’s character probably has the most eye-popping of wardrobes throughout the series, with reds and yellows being the mainstays. These brash tones potentially translate into his allure to Walter in the beginning of the

show, as he was already involved in the meth business. He is directly opposite to Walter’s wife Skyler in every aspect of their respective characters. This contrast is directly shown in a scene where Skyler confronts Jesse at his property, instructing him to stay away from Walter; she is wearing a light blue top over her pregnant belly whilst Jesse wears a bright red baggy hoodie as he drags a dead body into his home. The purity of Skyler’s blue is set in direct contrast with Jesse’s red, and the fact that Walter sits between the two heavily reflects how his character is multifaceted in so many ways, with his actions dragging his pure (blue) family into the dangerous (red) world of drugdealing. The visual tension and contrast that these colours create perfectly encapsulates how Breaking Bad uses simple colours and wardrobe pieces to form profound and meaningful effects across the entire series, overarchingly translating a variety of character developments and dynamics that draws you even further into the show.

HANK SCHRADER Probably the most obvious contrast in colour throughout the entire show, Walter’s DEA brother in-law Hank Schrader sits directly across from green in the colour wheel, with orange being his most consistent colour. He often wears orange and brown button-up shirts or a tighter fitting t-shirt. The standout connotations of the various shades or orange, and sometimes brown, include humour, action, and most importantly, humility. As a part of law enforcement, Hank is obviously in direct opposition to Walt in how he is always trying to track him and his product down, without even knowing it. He stands for the justice and order in the world, a grounded occupation that looks to ‘do good’, whereas Walt represents the greed and selfishness of illegal activities. Hank’s orange clothing often reflects his humorous and warm personality, with this making him even more likeable. Orange also represents fire and at times anger, as Hank often becomes so irate with the constant cat and mouse of chasing Walt’s drug that he snaps and takes it out on those around him, such as his wife Marie. In turn, we are shown how Walt’s actions of greed impact those around him and thus how colour can advance

narratives, direct the audience, and carry an abundance of intricate meaning.

HOW YOU CAN USE COLOUR While this article has been based in the boundaries of Breaking Bad and its characters, the underlying takeaway is that colour in your wardrobe can be an influential tool in translating certain feelings, showing how clothes are not just simply redundant commodities. They can instead be a part of you that tells your own personal story or translates how you’re feeling on a particular day, the possibilities are endless! Whether you want to replicate Breaking Bad and its use of colour in a script for TV or film, or if you want to take its meanings away to your own personal wardrobe, I believe that this show and its use of a colourful wardrobe is a fantastic example of how colour can be an adaptable technique in reflecting a person’s own sense of self. In essence, be who you want to be... and use colour to express that! If you enjoyed this article, you can follow more of Thomas’ work on his Twitter @iamthomaswoods_ .

AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON PART 1

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

HOUSE OF FABROSANZ

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MARY MARTIN

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SOBOYE

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UNIVERSITY OF NORTHAMPTON GRADUATE FASHION SHOW

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EMIL VIDAL CARR

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LOCAL

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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE

Cettire Golden Goose Deluxe Brand Sequin SingleBreasted Blazer £904.85

Flannels Michelle dress £895.00

ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli

Colorful Standard Organic button down shirt-Optical white £70.00

Monnalisa Faux beaver fur £95.00

Monica Vinader Doina Pearl and Huggie Earrings Set £180.00

Alexander McQueen Wool Gabardine Cigarette Trousers £560.00

Farfetch Embroidered shift blouse £1269

Monsoon Truth ombre hanky hem dress grey £46.00

Farfetch Sequinned flared trousers £2129

LK Bennett Heather silver metallic D'Orsay courts £229.00 Boden Natalia Slingbacks Navy £160.00

Farfetch Chain detail ankle boots £174.00 Monsoon Benjamin Tuxedo Suit Set Black £75.00

Ted Baker Metallic Leather Loafer £135.00

Alexandalexa Silver Leather Brando Brogues £80.00

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NEW BUSINESS CHRYSAORA PACIFIC READY TO WEAR DELUXE 2022 FALL WINTER COLLECTION BY JEANIFER TANDEAN

Name of company: Magic Wizhes Type of business: Fashion Location: Indonesia, Sulawesi Selatan

Currently, how many people work for the business? Actually I don't have a worker, which mean I work by myself at this moment. But, I hope my business can grow up so I can use a worker to help my projects.

Hello, let me introduce my name. I'm Jeanifer Tandean (@duckkweky), the owner of @Magic_Wizhes; proudly to say I'm one of the student in Ciputra University, Surabaya. This is a project from my university! How long has the company been running? I think it's not a "company" yet; it's more like my own business. I start it this year at 7 April 2021 for launching my first collection name "Magic Wishes" and soon launching my next collection name "Chrysaora Pacific" Where did the idea come from? The newest collection name is "Chrysaora Pacific". The idea comes from one type of jellyfish, and that jellyfish's name is The Pacific Sea Nettle, as you can see the detailing of this clothes are similar to this jellyfish's arms and tentacle. For the color of the clothes, which is blue colors, it is inspired by the color of the ocean where the sea creature lives. The "Chrysaora" name is inspired by The Pacific Sea Nettle's scientific name "Chrysaora Fuscescens", and the "Pacific" name is inspired by where this jellyfish can be found that is the Pacific Ocean.

What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? -Do your best and let God do the rest! -Don't let negative thoughts haunt you. -Do everything in a good mood; then, the results will also be good. -Don't force yourself. If you're tired, get enough rest. -Find supportive friends so you can support each other and remind each other. <3 Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time? I really hope my company can be famous, go international, can bring my design to a fashion show, or I hope my design can be used by artists or famous people.

What are your company values? In my opinion, my business values are to have a unique design and have different interests to make my business different from the other businesses.

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House of iKons

Painter: kanadel Email: soundscapenet@yahoo.co.jp IG: soundscapenet

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INDIA FASHION WEEK LONDON Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

NOUREEN DHANANI

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SIDDARTHA TYTLER

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INDIA FASHION WEEK LONDON Photography by Fil Mazarrino @filmazzarino

ANGRISH

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LONDON RUNWAY

BOOK CLUB

Bewilderment BY RICHARD POWERS

This week Hannah Whittaker is looking at the extraordinary new release Bewilderment by the multi-award-winning American novelist Richard Powers.

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As the world has continued to readjust from the effects of COVID19 we have been inundated with amazing novels from some incredible authors who, luckily for us readers, spent their quarantine time writing some absolute masterpieces. One particular book that has stood out to me, which I read at the beginning of October, is Bewilderment by Richard Powers. Powers is known for his focus on modern science, technology, and dystopian futures which have been core themes in his most successful novels such as The Overstory, The Time of Our Singing, and of course Bewilderment. Bewilderment could be defined as a science fiction book, but I think that there is so much more that to it than just that. The novel covers such a range of themes from family, grief and behavioural problems through to nature, the environment, and extra-terrestrial life. I think that it was this broad range of ideas which drew me into the book so quickly. Twenty pages in and I couldn’t put the book down, which is immediately a good sign! The books storyline follows the lives of Theo, the narrator, and his son Robin, who we soon learn suffers from behavioural problems. Theo’s wife and Robin’s mother Aly passed away in a car crash a few years prior to when the book is set. The first few chapters of the book set up the overall storyline of how Robin’s behavioural challenges are affecting his school life as well as Theo’s life and career. We learn that Robin is fascinated by nature, taking after his mother who was an environmental activist. Theo continues to refuse using drugs to help monitor Robin’s behaviour - “He’s nine years old! His brain is still developing”. But Robin’s behaviour soon becomes too erratic for school, and Theo is forced to find a solution. It is at this point that the reader is introduced to a former friend of

Aly’s, Marty Currier, who suggested enrolling Robin in his neurofeedback experiment to help his behaviour, an experiment that Theo and Aly had also taken part in when she was alive. This experiment used AI to monitor neural activity, and by using the data from Aly’s mind, the reader sees Robin get closer to his mother and watches his behaviour significantly improve. Now I am definitely no scientist, but the way I understood this was that Robin’s patterns of connectivity were mapped and then shaped through visual and auditory cues. It sounds a bit confusing, but Power’s manages to communicate the experiment in an effective way so that everyone can understand it. Robin ultimately learns his mother’s recorded neural patterns, and this neurological connection between a son and a lost mother holds so much poignancy throughout the whole book. Another element that gripped me to this book was the way that Powers used his language and vocabulary to further every aspect of his writing. The first quarter or so of the book places Theo and Robin on a camping trip, and every word Powers used is as evocative as the last. We walk every step of the way with the characters, taking in the beauty that the nature around them provides and beginning to understand how it is exactly this that brings both Robin and Theo happiness, serenity, and peace in their lives. “Six different kinds of forest all around us. Seventeen hundred flowering plants. More tree species than in all of Europe.” Arguably my favourite aspect of this book has to be Theo’s stories of extra-terrestrial worlds that he uses as bedtime stories for Robin. Each planet has its own chapter to have its story told, and Powers' use of language, which is similar to poetic prose, makes his

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imaginative stories come to life for the reader. “I took him to planet Dvau, about the size and warmth of ours”; “What else Dad? Where else? Show me another one”. These stories continue to represent Robin’s connection to nature, he yearns for more to learn and experience. Robin’s dedication to saving the planet reflects the dire situation our Earth is currently in. What the readers begins to see is that although this novel is based in a dystopian future, it shares significant similarities with our own world. The themes which bring this novel together as a whole are tragedy and loss. The tragedy of losing a mother and wife, the loss of nature, of Theo’s career and Robin’s grip on reality. But what we can learn from Powers' writing and exploration of loss, however melancholic it may be, is that there is so much importance in seeing the beauty in the small things, whether that be nature, time with family, or simply Theo’s extra-terrestrial stories, which certainly brought me a lot of joy throughout the novel. Page-turner – ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ Complexity – ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ Storyline – ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ Overall review – ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ You can read more of Hannah’s work by following @the.goodbooknook on Instagram.

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HOUSE OF iKONS KID FASHION Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

BE UNIQUE BE YOU

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ATHEA COUTURE

LONDON RUNWAY

DIS IS ME COUTURE

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ETHNICROYALS

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INTERVIEW WITH HARUN RUNE With notable features and performances at BBC Introducing and Jazz Café, Born and raised London artist, rapper, and creative Harun Rune delves into his multi-faceted career and shares with us inspirations and passions for creativity! Who are you and what do you do? Harun Egwenu, profesionally known as Harun Rune. I'm a creative artist, model, and FASHIONISTO from London. I also make short films, and I'm an art and business director. I work with creatives worldwide and produce content for my growing fanbase.

What about London stands out to you most, both personally and as a creative? If you could create anywhere else, where would it be? London is a great British city that stands out within Europe and the World. It's an international city with a global presence and unique sense of style and language. On my side of North London, 'The Northside', we talk exquisite and handle our life in a clean and tasteful manner. I recently moved into the city centre #EC1V, an active place full of banks, skyscrapers and a metropolis like skyline. I shop in covent garden, which is also an amazing place where fashionable people congregate and enjoy themselves. I grew up near

What got you into the industries that you are in currently? You may have seen that I first emerged and gained some relevance by appearing on BBC Radio with my musical releases. I began to perform and network in the city at fashion events and screenings and now participate with an international presence. I am known to release rare and unique music, fashion, and cultural pieces, and I have an active following in: - Britain - The United States - Canada - Europe - Tokyo - Latin America What fuels your creativity and drive? I'd say that the city I come from and the scene I grew up in facilitate my creative drive. I love to make new things and use my talents to enrich my life and the lives of others. I'm inspired by the things I see and the people I meet, as well as the places I've travelled to and things I will do in the future.

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Central Saint Martins, which is a world renowned fashion college and live close to the University of The Arts London (UAL) and The University of Law. Is there anything interesting the readers should know about you or your work? I write all my works and treatments and direct a majority of the productions I am involved in. A fun fact is that I naturally wear and talk about the brands and publications I am affiliated with too, which is cool because I've always enjoyed being active and influencing the different things I like in a creative way.

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My visuals are unique and provide conceptual excellence in the form of exuberant creativity bursting with a LUXE appeal that has an authentic and relevant edge. We use high quality cameras, lenses, and lighting to set the scene for 'Movies'. The narrative encompasses what is being discussed in the score. I want credits and money in the right places so we keep it respectful and expensive. What is the most memorable moment you have had on stage or on a shoot? and why? Working alongside WILLVISIONS Media on my fashion concept shoot for MOSCHINO on a vogue inspired piece based on the legendary videos and stars of VH1 and MTV in the Modern Age was one. Unique acts like Madonna and culture creators, like the illustrious Karl Lagerfeld and American Hero, Ralph Lauren, paved the way for me. Keeping in mind trendsetters and brands like Stussy, Pharrell Williams, and new age style icons, like ASAP Rocky and Lana Del Rey, who have moved the scene forward so much.

What do you have in the works now, and when will they be released? I have a number of fashion photoshoots in the works— collaborations with European brands and videos that will be released with my project 'GOLD', an official musical release I worked on in London. Also expect new designs, animations, and content towards the end of this year and at the start of 2022 where I will be consistently dropping new pieces and creations. You mentioned your 'GOLD' project. What is the project about, and what is the concept behind the video releases? 'GOLD' is something I have been working on for some time, representing true values and taste. With a selection that ages like fine wine, I used production from all over the world and created a full length release boasting ten quality compositions. The songs are aimed at an audience that can relate to living with a balance of work, leisure, food, and holistic health and beauty. You may hear it while shopping for designer clothing or furniture, your favourite restaurant or private members club, or in serene places such as hotel lobbies, rooftop bars and private hire vechiles.

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Who is one artist/designer/creative you would love to collaborate with, and what kind of work would you want to produce? Karrueche. As time goes by, the story will unfold about my past as a bit of a teen icon in London. I have done many things and have had the chance to meet, socialize, and connect with stars and talented individuals in ways you could not imagine. I would like to work in film, especially in the production of high quality TV and as a stylist or art director for the most beautiful women in the world. I'd also like to work with talented musicians like Young Thug, Miguel, and Paigey Cakey. Of course, Corrine Bailey Rae and models like Lauren London too. Another name I will mention is Director Kid Art, whom I am noted for discovering early in his career. Where do you see yourself going next? I see myself receiving more acknowledgment stateside and in Canada, pushing into a new space/zone where I can collaborate with more established and notable contemporaries. Meeting the icons and solidifying a place for myself within the networks, scenes, and circuits I want to be in.

Being a celebrity means you must celebrate, so we definitely got that done on camera and gave viewers a touch of my starlight . The video is performing quite well within the Vimeo community, which is quite a reserved and authentic audience. I was surprised at how I began to be spotted in public, and my image is becoming more well known in places I never imagined at all. A life changing transition, my life has always been LIT but I have to thank those who have supported me over the last few years. What are some past works that really pushed you creatively? My concept shoots for my clothing brand CTW (Cloudy Tribe Worldwide) were an amazing chance for me to exercise authority in that creative lane. The challenge was to keep the playful and colourful appeal of streetwear while maintaining a sexy commercial outlook for my consumers. Our brand is culturally autonomous and references popular art pieces, architecture and cinema.

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You said you liked suave colours. If you could only wear one colour for the rest of your life, what would it be? (part of our The Big Question Series) I would have to pick a few. I love Black, the rich tones of a dark maroon, and the glinting romantic auras created by gold and diamonds. You need all of these colours for the classy-casual appeal I mix with streetwear. Look out for more Harun Rune! #Itsa London Thing #CatchTaste Instagram @harunelondon Twitter @harunrune Facebook @harunefromlondon Soundcloud @runeyrune artistrack.com/tag/harun-rune/ Credits: Art director – Harun Rune Photographer – Kai Campbell

What has been your most regrettable style choice? (part of our The Big Question Series) As a FASHIONISTO, I'm known as a stylish man that has no room for this; we can't afford mistakes on this side. I like to keep suave with solid colours and a smooth finish. It's all about fits where I see myself as plus size due to my height and the equivalence of what we call 'Thick' over here when referencing a woman with a nice fit body (Winning) that can't be described in any other way. This is rare for a virile man in modern fashion that's why I'm here to break traditions and live outside of the box. Are there any brands, as a fashionisto that gets you excited? Designer Brands and Fashion Houses I'm currently interested in and wearing are: MOSCHINO of Course BALENCIAGA VALENTINO STONE ISLAND SALVATORE FERRAGAMO I also wear CHANEL fragrances and await their designs for a man of my calibre. I will not lie this year it has been CHANEL and RALPH LAUREN that took it home for me as a consumer. I love their designs for women and some of the work that has been presented with Penelope Cruz.

All images via Harun Rune

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AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON PART 2

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

GARY PIE

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NEVER FADE

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OYEBIMPE

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EYORA

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ASIAN FASHION AND BRIDAL SHOW Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

AYNAGHOR

NAIKA

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NAZ FASHIONS

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PINKY PROMISE

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WOMEN'S WISH

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MISS COMMONWEALTH Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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GREY HAIR IS NOT REVOLUTIONARY. IT’S NORMAL. Anonymous asks whether it is beneficial to applaud celebrities for going grey. Does it empower women, or does it create new beauty standards? Do women want to be revolutionaries when they accept their natural bodies? You would only have to take one look at the photos of Andie MacDowell gracing the red carpet at Cannes to know that the fashion world was about to go wild. Her perfectly curled, salt and pepper locks appeared revolutionary, dangerous even, and magazines across the world jumped at the chance to show their appreciation for the actress’ bravery. It was the perfect story; she symbolised women everywhere that had come out of lockdown with more relaxed definitions of beauty. It is undeniable that these photos of MacDowell are empowering. As a woman existing in a youth-obsessed industry, there is no doubt she might have had second thoughts about accepting her natural hair. In an interview following her decision to go grey so publicly, she revealed that her managers had told her to leave off a little longer. It seemed in Hollywood, 63 was far too young to start ageing. Undeterred and encouraged by other grey-haired women on social media, MacDowell took the plunge and her act of defiance certainly paid off. There is now a correct way to go grey.

MacDowell’s halo of silvery locks has become the advertisement for articles selling expensive shampoos and name-dropping famous hairstylists. Her hair, greying because of a deadly virus that kept everyone indoors, has been fashioned into a revolution. A revolution that sells. But, can everyone buy into it? I remember staring in horror at my mother when she announced in 2010 that she was about to stop dying her hair. “It will be fine”, she said reassuringly, “Granny’s hair went white so mine probably will too”.

called her old, and by the local hairdresser that initially* sniffed at her greying roots and orangey ends. Like my Mum, most women cannot afford to buy shampoos that bring glossy silver tones out of grey. They do not have the time for long consultations with expensive stylists on how best to transition their hair seamlessly. In this way, should we really be applauding wealthy women for taking the plunge when they have all the resources to make the ageing process perfect at every stage? However, my mother did not want to be a revolutionary. I realised as I was writing this article that I was

It didn’t. She’d previously been sporting a burgundy shade, and, as it grew out, the colour faded to an unusual carrot tinge. Preceding this at her roots was a harsh band of slate grey and brown, which, and I’m sorry for saying this Mum, would not have been praised in glossy magazines. My mother’s hair grew out eventually, and it’s beautiful. It took a while, but it is now, not white, but a silky, silvery brown. This makes my mother a greyhaired revolutionary. The change was unsubtle and dramatic, as revolutions often are. She was unhindered by my embarrassment, by pupils that she taught who

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Image via Instagram

LONDON RUNWAY capitalising on her, making her a hero for ‘ordinary’ women so that I could write something inspiring. In reality, her decision might have had more to do with the fact that she had two young kids and a demanding job. She wanted to do something with her free time other than kneeling, head over the bath, washing out burgundy hair dye. She was merely accepting a normal process of life. This made me think more about Andie MacDowell and there is one image of the actress that sticks in my mind. Her head is tilted, and her eyes are crinkled because she is smiling. She doesn’t look brave or dangerous, she looks happy. Did MacDowell mean to start a revolution? It seems that rejections of female beauty standards must become revolutionary to be accepted. In 1999, Julia Roberts became a feminist icon overnight for arriving at the Notting Hill premiere with hairy underarms. And she, like MacDowell, was depicted as ‘badass’ and brave. Whilst this was preferable to her being ridiculed by the media, it still made a natural human state into something daring. Roberts later admitted that she had no intention of making a statement that night. She simply had not realised that the length of the sleeve would expose her underarms and had forgotten to shave. Normal women might have celebrated the fact that Roberts was Just Like Them! but probably wouldn’t have abandoned their razor for a fear of attention. To put it

plainly, this is a call for fashion journalists to leave our bodies alone. Not to spin perceived ‘flaws’ into shiny revolutions. It creates a culture that deems it acceptable to comment on these ‘flaws’, to pick them apart and to turn them into think pieces. I decided a few years ago to stop shaving so regularly and most nights out am accosted by men and women alike who drunkenly commend my bravery. Sometimes I receive negative attention. Last summer I was in a bar and was asked multiple times if I smelled by a man who eventually decided to push his face into my underarms to see for himself. It was humiliating and I spent the rest of the night listening to his friend’s attempt to diffuse the situation. “You are so brave”, he exclaimed, “… most people just aren’t ready for it”. I’d chosen a new pair of vintage flares that I was extremely excited to wear that day. I’d wanted to show them off to my friends and enjoy the warm weather. Why was that feeling overshadowed by half a centimetre of hair under my arms? In the same way, fashion journalists should turn the attention back to the purposeful choices of celebrities, stylists, and designers. It was MacDowell’s hair that took centre stage at Cannes, not the intricate beading of her Prada gown and not, sadly, her either. That, to me, is what fashion should be about: artistry and self-expression. Not our bodies, not the things we cannot control.

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MacDowell was indeed brave for showing off her beautiful, silvery hair, but she should not have needed to be. You might say this is too optimistic, but all ‘revolutions’ come to an end and the changes they create are, without fuss, accepted by all. *This hairdresser is a lovely woman and has since changed her mind about my mother’s grey hair. It was 2010, and she just wasn’t ready for it!

Images via Pexel

LONDON RUNWAY

“Every cloud has a silver lining, you just have to go through all the darkness to get to it.” – Stef Railey Candice brings you silver jewellery for any of your favourite signs, perfect for the New Year's festivities to come! All of these options will be from sustainable, ethical brands using mostly recycled silver.

Aries March 21 - April 20

Wearth London - Lotus Aura Ring As one of the representative flowers for Aries, the unconventional shape of this lotus flower ring not only pays homage to that but also symbolises purity and rebirth.

Taurus April 21 - May 21

Hulyah London Shop (Etsy) - Minimalist Green Ring 925K Silver Nature Ring It’s only fitting for Tauruses to showcase their birthstones, emeralds, in a cute, practical way! The leaf design of this ring also speaks to these earth signs’ elemental values and ethos.

Gemini May 22- June 21

Soru Jewellery - Silver Crystal Mini Hoop Earrings Clear crystals within solid silver and mini pearls, what better way to light these bubbly signs up than these sparkly mini hoop earrings?!

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LONDON RUNWAY

Cancer June 22- July 22 Wearth London - Phase | The Full Moon Ring As the sign governed by the moon, this handmade ring will resonate with Cancers and their more feminine natures. Both “delicate yet solid”, the irregular textures also allude to the moon’s craters.

Leo July 23- August 21 Georgina Boyce Fine Jewellery - Sector Earrings Leos, the ever-shining stars that they are, will emanate even more with these stunning prism drop earrings. With a diamond-studded side, these statement pieces are made in yellow, white, and rose gold.

Virgo August 22- September 23 Wild Fawn Jewellery - Silver Chain Pearl Drop Lariat Necklace Lovers of all things simple and understated, Virgos will adore this delicate, classic pearl necklace piece. It plays a modern, minimal twist on such a timeless accessory.

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LONDON RUNWAY

Libra September 24- October 23

Tada & Toy - Rainbow Treasure Ear Cuff A nice, non-committal option, this ear cuff is chunky and perfectly twists and hugs the ear. Like a beaming rainbow, Libras will charm wherever they go with these on!

Scorpio October 24- November 22

Alighieri - The Rocky Terrain Choker With an edgy aesthetic suited for this stoic sign, this choker necklace will be well-loved by Scorpios! Made and handcrafted in London.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Tada & Toy - Hibernation Hoops These everyday hoops are perfect for the Sagittarius wanting to add a bit of understated shine to their fits! Simple and classic, they’ll never want to take them off.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Wild Fawn Jewellery - Silver Huggie Hoops with Blue Gemstone Charm These deep blue gemstone earrings, minimalistic and modern, will not rust or degrade quickly, so Capricorns lost in their production flow will not need to worry about maintaining them!

Aquarius January 21 - February 19

Natalie Perry Jewellery - Medium Silver Organic Twisted Pearl Hoops These twisted hoops will give a nice flair to the classic staples. With the added pearls, it can be dressed down or up for any occasion, and Aquarians will love the versatility!

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Alighieri - The Clouds in Your Mind Necklace An abstract piece suited for these abstract minds, this amulet is “designed to offer you light and clarity on your everyday adventures.”

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9 Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers

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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

"Low rise jeans (Though it looks like they’re coming back!)" -Jess C , Writer

“Don’t laugh! I used to customise a lot of things, and once I made these pants and here I wrote ‘Brown Sugar’ [gestures across the crotch of his jeans]. I thought it was quite cool, but now I think it was quite tacky and weird” - Angel Nokonoko, designer at NokNok London

“I WENT THROUGH A REGRETTABLY LONG TRILBY PHASE AS A TEEN!” – Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

“I'VE BEEN A TEENAGER THROUGH THE 80'S; NOTHING COULD BE WORSE THAN THAT .” “Trying out haircut trends at an impressionable age that never suited my round face.”

- Fil Mazzarino, Photographer

– Candice Wu, editorial assistant

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

NEXT: THE LOVE ISSUE THE SILVER ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

BACK COVER: PAMM HOGG AT LFW BY FIL MAZZARINO