London Runway Issue 71 - The LFW Issue

MUSHU INTERVIEW . LFW DIGITAL RECAP . THIERRY MUGLER RETROSPECTIVE . ADAPTIVE FASHION

PAUL COSTELLOE . LONDON FASHION WEEK . JENN LEE . TAIPEI FASHION WEEK . STARRY CRADLES

ISSUE 71 27TH FEBRUARY 2022

THE LFW ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Ruth Croft Advertising enquiries - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Lucy Brown, Anna Schultz, Anthony Yeung, John Lane, Altru Creative, Mushu, Oksana Gavrilova, Liza Kvins, Marina Davydkina, Bazdyreva Anastasiia, Dmitry Zhuravlev, Lyubov Belyavtseva, Alfiya Raimbekova, Miras Bayanov, Dzyn, Novozhilova Ksenia, Alfiya Raimbekova, Melody Lai, Chris Kwock, Patricia Botrán, Nazaret Rodrigue, Leticia Gonzalez, David Rodriguez, The Upnorth Vintage Club, Seigar, Hannah Whittaker, KF, Dear Ocean, Noemi Dresses, Smart Adaptive, Ran by Nature, Unhidden, Seref, Tracy Toulouse, SB Shop, AUF, Sophia Tel, Poetry House, Yoga, Elidy’s Couture, Renee, Bella Michelle Taps, Faizz Mir, Liberty Victoria, Rebecca Arundell, Natalie Walker, Sandra Monero, Dyelog PR Special thanks to: Mushu, Starry Cradles, Victoria Jenkins, Laura Blair, Isobel Berman

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Staff Graphic Designers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene

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CONTENTS

LONDON RUNWAY

29 VISUALS

118 WORDS

Paul Costelloe

9

LFW A/W22 Digital Recap

4

Supriya Lele

14

Interview: Mushu

29

Mushu (cover editorial)

17

Winter Iceland: a journey in a frozen desert

30

Style (Conscious) Guide: New for 2022

30 Retrospective on The Lives of Big Designers: Thierry Mugler

52

New Faces

35 41

New Business: The Upnorth Vintage Club

66

Portfolio Piece: Melody Lai Fantasy (editorial)

43

Book Club: Failosophy by Elizabeth Day

78

On|Off

56 Finding the Right PR Agency

91

Kay Kwok

60 Your Style Horoscope

106

Atmosfear by Seigar

67 77

Victoria Jenkins: the designer paving the way for adaptive fashion

119

Starry Cradles Fashions Finest

80 The Big Question

122

London Represents

95

Taipei Fashion Week

110

London Represents continued

115

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s ' r o t i d E ter t e l We hope everyone stayed safe during the storms we had throughout the week.

Despite the carnage it left, with the O2 and the passersby trying to get to safety, London Fashion Week continued on with full force, showcasing the latest Autumn/Winter 2022 trends! With that, we are back with another issue full of LFW coverage and goodness.

We start the issue off with our usual recap of the LFW events, focusing on the digital events. If you missed any of the events or haven’t had time to view the online presentations yet, we’ve got you covered with a brief overview of what this season’s hottest designers had to offer. This year was unique in that it had a physical schedule and a digital one, which meant more content and fashion eye candy for us all!

Filled with notable collections from the LFW shows, we feature Paul Costelloe, On|Off, Fashions Finest, London Represents, Supriya Lele, and Kay Kwok

just to name a few! We also have some galleries from Taipei Fashion Week, featuring designers Jenn Lee and Claudia Wang.

away to a frozen wonderland with his photographs for a temporary escape from the storms and wet, chill of London.

We had a lovely time getting to know about Mushu, our cover editorial star and finding out his inspirations and motivations for his music, career, and life, so definitely check out the editorial and exclusive interview we featured in this issue!

Additionally, a London Runway Issue wouldn’t be complete without some gorgeous editorials as well. From collages fighting censorship to a surreal, Spring-filled editorial, be on the lookout for those full-coloured beauties!

Learn how to land a PR agency as a model or influencer with tips directly from a PR agency and signed influencer or read a retrospective on the great late Thierry Mugler. Interviews of Victoria Jenkins, a current trailblazer for adaptive fashion, and Starry Cradles, a jewellery company “awarded for unique engagement ring designs” are also featured and intertwined with gorgeous editorials. You can also read a travel article of Iceland from our lead photographer, Fil, who whisks you

Some extra great news— our lovely, powerhouse editor-in-chief Rhiannon will be making her return in the next issue! I’ve had a great time writing these editor’s letters and filling in her shoes the past months, but we are definitely ecstatic to have her back with us. Her lovely new addition is also healthy, buoyant, and growing up way too fast. We know she’s been itching to get back as well, so stay tuned for her return and hope you enjoy the issue!

Warmly,

CANDICE WU

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LONDON RUNWAY

LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W22 DIGITAL RECAP FRIDAY FEB 18 DiscoveryLAB presents: CHRISTOPH RITTER STUDIO “An exploration of futurism, intercultural allyship and virtual self-idealisation”, Christoph Ritter’s digital presentation showcased his AW22 collection ‘THE LADDER’.

Flashing lights and techno music aplenty, it was presented in an edgy short film set in an underground nightclub that cleverly displayed the collection on the dancers.

DiscoveryLAB presents: Margn Margn’s SS/AW 22 draws focus on the experiences of immigrants and refugees, showcasing their struggles, courage, and determination. Set in a bare, relatively dark room, the video and music paired cleverly together, creating a sense of discomfort and desire for escape. Each design and stitching symbolises an attempt at going against the norm.

DiscoveryLAB presents: ABIGAIL AJOB The collection showcases the love story of the designer’s parents from Nigeria and Lagos, who met on a flight from Lagos to London. You journey through their love story of discovery, love, and parting as each piece is revealed, and each scene or phase of the relationship has a unique song to really pull you in.

MITHRIDATE Autumn/Winter 2022

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY: Season 17

The campaign film showed the physical presentation interwoven with clips of ominous recordings of the pieces. A burst of silver and glittered fabrics, the models donning the designs looked like quirky creatures from another planet. The setting was a stunning mix of industrial design and plants, and the atmosphere is mysterious and captivating.

Edward Crutchley’s collection is inspired by 80's goth-luxe, this is a very extravagant, alternative collection that may not be for everyone. One particular outfit we liked was the womenswear total lilac suit.

SAUL NASH Ritual AW22 directed

by FX Goby A young man enters a barber shop dancing in a bright red outfit. The collection has a street-style identity but is barely understandable that this is a fashion video, it definitely looks like a music video.

U.Mi-1 Fashion Film: “Unto Dust” "Unto Dust" is a short film showcasing a seasonless and unisex collection. The set design and video editing are great as they perfectly matched the tone of the collection. The designer aimed at exploring wider themes, like global interconnectedness and the tension between individuals and community.

Playlist’ AW22 Stephen Jones Millinery This collection of hats and headpieces is presented almost like a music video.

Earbuds are the models for this fun and engaging fashion video, which is a great way to present hats not using human models.

VINTI ANDREWS AW22 LFW Fashion Film Colourful prints paired with a casual and relaxed style with a girl walking around a desolate area summarises the film. With the vibes of a final project of a high-school video making course, it is definitely more of a DIY feel for LFW. palmer//harding pre-fall & fall film The brand focused on structured shapes and basic colours like black, beige, and cream. There are no prints or eye-catching elements, apart from the clear transparent shoes, but we loved every outfit!

Images via YouTube - 'THE LADDER' - CHRISTOPH RITTER STUDIO

SOHUMAN LIBERATION SHOW As a young woman walks around the city wearing chic and feminine collections with laces and seethrough fabrics, it exudes a sense of freedom, independence, and confidence that we love to see!

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LONDON RUNWAY

SATURDAY FEB 19 DiscoveryLAB presents: Anciela

BMUET(TE) Digital Runway

av vattev “Soul Control” vol.2

“The Dance of the Migrant” film by Anciela presented their AW22 womenswear collection. With interpretive dancing and spoken word, the film cleverly showcased their inspirations taken from the history of the “Silletero”, who were porters who carried flowers, people, and more during colonial times and for the Colombian flower festival.

This video features models walking a traditional catwalk in an empty venue set up with chairs, yet the music somehow fills the space.

The collection features pieces with strong yet simple shapes, taking inspiration from punk styles and imaginary stories. Very versatile and designs many will like!

“The whole concept behind my brand is to create modern but timeless garments.” There were some interesting headpieces, to say the least, but the retro-digital style of the editing was nice.

DiscoveryLAB presents: J E CAI A model standing on a spinning plinth is piece by piece getting dressed virtually with different outfits.

Definitely not a traditional catwalk, you can see the influence from the digital side of the fashion industry and NFTs. The aesthetics of maths or coding.

SEOKWOON YOON_Approaching a new species The collection is a celebration of geometric colourful patterns. It is almost genderless and the video shows the fabrics really well as there are many close ups. The impactful, bassy music provides a certain presence to the pieces.

Ahluwalia–GQ

DiscoveryLAB presents: Florentina Leitner ‘Der Zaurberberg’ is a “playful concoction of femininity and elegance. This video has strong vintage vibes and draws inspiration from 80s horror films, resulting in a captivating, yet every viewing experience paired with the music.

Ahluwalia presents "From Bollywood to Nollywood '', their debut collection. Reminiscent of India and Nigeria, colourful drapes decorate the totally white, appealing venue.

The main elements of the set are sand and dried flowers, and the music is strong, creating a great vibe for this colourful collection. Interviews from the designers and creatives involved are included.

Image via YouTube - der zauberberg FLORENTINA LEITNER

RAY CHU - Ch. IIII Touch Me Presenting “sensual and sophisticated aesthetics”, models wear pieces ranging from suit-like ensembles to more relaxed collared tops. A mix of bold silhouettes and subtle colour palettes, this collection also has some emphasis on big silver jewels and jewel-style belts Banshee of Savile Row A lovely combination of feminine and chic fashion and Irish countryside vibes, the film shows a model walking and dancing close to a pond. The elegant aesthetic of the pieces are definitely something we would wear for all outfits!

MARQUES ‘ALMEIDA The collection is a burst of patterns and colours. Many pieces are great for spring/summer. With too many brands proposing unwearable outfits, Marques’ Almeida really nailed it with a bold and captivating, yet practical collection.

Image via Instagram - @bansheeofsavilerow

SUNDAY FEB 20 DiscoveryLAB presents: Sól Hansdóttir

DiscoveryLAB presents: Strongthe

Temperley London AW22

Collaborating with the Icelandic photographer Anna Maggý, perception is toyed with to explore the reality of clothing while also going against the traditional idea of fashion. You get this vintage, retro-like editing style, with the blurry focus and almost DIY aesthetic.

Ritualistic and taking inspiration from Thailand’s early ghost culture, this very short fashion film features pieces that supposedly are detailed with all intricate designs representing the different ghost warding methods. However, it was very difficult to see them in full.

This collection is refined yet casual.

Brown shaded, countryside chic outfits create a young and joyful collection.

Outfits are very nice and for sure easily wearable for different occasions. In comparison to the collection, the video could have been done better.

LONDON RUNWAY DiscoveryLAB presents: EX-A STUDIO

Elleme FW22

Simone Rocha AW22

"Future Relics”, is a 3D Audio Visual jewellery presentation. The immersive experience showcases the genderneutral jewellery collection paired with music by Limited Toss.

The models walk in a dome-style venue with quirky geometric walls. The effects and editing, music, and strong pieces paired so well together for an edgy and powerful film presentation.

STAXX AW22

On|Off presents Jack Irving NFTs, LFW, BNV, and Aliceland

Layered outfits, black, white and beige lined the traditional catwalk. Many outfits are embellished with rhinestones, pearls, and embroideries.

We love how Simone Rocha mixes shapes and small details like rhinestones.

HALCYON is inspired “by a tender story of love and commitment.” With amazing jewels, every piece is interesting and well shown in the video. The included photos show how they pair the jewellery with matching outfits.

Fashion meets video gaming. Some NFT outfits are presented in a video gamestyle digital experience, but it makes us question whether this is still even fashion…

Image via YouTube - Simone Rocha Autumn Winter 2022 Show

MONDAY FEB 21 DiscoveryLAB presents: DREAMING ELI

by Elisa “... an ode to womanhood”, this collection is elegantly and sensually shown through clips of dancers in single rooms and an ethereal, flower-lined path. Each piece takes inspiration from restrictions placed on women throughout the centuries.

DiscoveryLAB presents: SASKIA GO.LA (advance and retreat) is Saskia’s LFW debut film piece. Celebrating the beauty of cross-cultural lifestyles and ancestral displacements, the film shows models and dancers moving together and doing capoeira harmoniously. The occasional first person POV really draws you into the dance and exchange.

DiscoveryLAB presents: Ester Kubisz The video takes place in a residence where angles and edits are played around to showcase the tailored suits. You get a sense of Kubisz’s life in London through the designs and colours of the pieces as they progress through the video— initial excitement to increased burdens.

Emilia Wickstead Autumn Winter 2022 In a chequered black and white room, the attention the seemingly loud backdrop actually enhances each piece. Ranging from neon green and bright reds to tartan plaids and browns, the simple yet eye-catching designs stood out to us.

Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood’s AW22/23 collection, as with all of her collections, never disappoint. The campaign film was set in eclectic settings of art studios and vintage stores. Taking inspiration from Peter Bruegel’s painting and animal symbolism in Chinese culture, The play with colours and patternings were stunning!

Accidental Cutting presents: “Upside down - Our World our Time” aw 22/23 A nod to the instability caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, this presentation film takes you on a journey through a virtual, video game format. The lone avatar of the designer and founder, Eva Iszoro, mimics the designer throughout a show looking in.

APUJAN Autumn Winter 2022

Kaushik Velendra

The Ballad of a Story Keeper is the campaign film for APUJAN’s AW2022 collection. Featuring a lone heroine defeating an enemy, a mysterious scroll transports her to another dimension where she journeys finding keys that open a surprise towards the end. The storyline was difficult to follow, with no guiding text or introduction.

A film of the catwalk presentation, the menswear takes from Indian brocade to Italian worsted wools, and more!

The Indian craftsmanship definitely still shines through with the strong tailoring, patterns, and new colours.

We love the slowed down runway where we get to fully appreciate each look.

HELEN KIRKUM: History in Remaking

RAF SIMONS FALL WINTER 20222023 COLLECTION

This short fashion film features their Made to Order pieces made from waste materials collected from TRAID’s recycling centre.

We love the editing of the video where it displayed two different videos overlaid onto each other.

The contrast provided depth.

The music was jarring at times but somehow still worked with the film.

Taking inspiration from Pieter Bruegel’s ‘Netherlandish Proverbs’, the collection is showcased through a traditional catwalk presentation.

Although the pieces were definitely statements, the setting, with the brick walls, red-cloaked armchairs, and golden chandelier, were too distracting to fully appreciate the pieces.

LONDON RUNWAY

London College of Fashion: MA22

Paul & Joe Fall Winter 2022 Catwalk

Helen Anthony

Works from the London College of Fashion’s postgraduate students are uniquely shown in this campaign film.

With an all-white backdrop, you can fully see the innovation and creativity of these young designers in their pieces!

This catwalk film showcased their traditional runway shows where the models walked in more intimate settings lined with audience members. We love the more gentle, homey designs, which pay tribute to the late English political activist Emmeline Pankhurst.

Artisan Liberation is Helen Anthony’s AW22 collection. Showcased in a digital event, the simple setting of a beige open room with high windows and ceilings is definitely very grand but somewhat takes the attention away from the pieces with how spacious and bare it was.

8ON8 Autumn Winter 2022—Sliders In an almost James Bond-esque way, the well-made AW collection and presentation film “builds a parallel world in a hair loop, where observers will board the space-time train to go here,...”.

Image via YouTube - Helen Anthony FW'22 LFW Runway Show

TUESDAY FEB 22 DiscoveryLAB presents: DJOKIC

MARRKNULL AW 2022

You’re instantly drawn in by the music and the 360 camera POV. However, the edits and cuts of the film and style are at times too distracting to focus on the collection itself. Male archetypes are satirically investigated with the collection in an attempt to break down the stereotypical male identity.

A play on the traditional catwalk, models with colourful, playful hairstyles walk along the walls in a bare room. The editing shows the cameraman following the models with some clips zooming in and out on specific outfits. There was definitely a variety of designs showcased.

DiscoveryLAB presents: WesternAffair

oqLiq Spacetime

Reminiscing on the designer’s early childhood memories, the collection nods at 2000s footwear using fabrics she collected throughout the years. The video jumps from mood to mood, with a dreamlike similarity to all the scenes.

The CGI film takes you to a futuristic world combining physical clothing and a virtual escape. Emphasising the evolution of society, a reliance on traditionalism is still apparent. The whole first minute and a half sets the scene, so you can definitely skip straight to the designs at 1:35 if you want.

DiscoveryLAB presents: VeniceW The grunge-like, playful aesthetic of this collection is displayed through a presentation film with old-school youtube editing vibes, with the subtitles and transitions, in the first section. You’re then taken to an NFT experience towards the latter half. “Vehicleswear” is the name of the collection.

Per Götesson Titled ‘WORK SHOP’, the collection was showcased through an Instagram Live. We unfortunately missed it. His designs aimed at reconstructing masculine shapes.

JENN LEE 22FW <<LOVE BUTTON HUNTER>> VR GAME “Unzip your love” -Jenn Lee Though we are yet to play the game, it definitely peaks our interest.

The colours and animation alone are enough to draw us in!

TOGA “HOOPS, BOUNCING, SWINGING” A great mix of innovative video editing and collection showcasing, we loved how each outfit got a moment of stillness before the model walked off to really see the designs.

Carlota Barrera The snow-filled set with pockets of greenery and floral bush brought an atmosphere of escape and wonder.

However, the collection itself unfortunately didn’t go well with the snowy setting. It could have possibly been done intentionally, but as a viewer who may not know much about the collection, it seemed mismatched.

LONDON RUNWAY

Johan Ku

RIXO Presentation: The Golden Age

This fashion film has an eerie feel to it with the music and red and blue lighting. You can tell the pieces are fairly vivid and colourful, but as the lighting is fairly dim, it’s hard to fully appreciate that colour blocking

Inspired by Hollywood glamour, the 1920s, flapper-esque presentation was definitely luxurious and playful.

The pieces blended with the film aesthetic seamlessly; you feel almost a part of the party!

yuhan wang aw22

Mainline:RUS/Fr.CA/DE 01-2022

The traditional catwalk presentation was exactly that. If you attended the physical show, you can skip this, but if you wanted a break from all of the immersive or “innovative” digital presentations, this would be the one!

Faux fur was used!

Set by the beach and a coastal town, the colours of the collection paired perfectly with the environment. It was a serene and thought-provoking film that cleverly showcased the designs.

MAXXIJ AW22 "Abstract" collection This catwalk film showcases MAXXIJ’s AW22 “Abstract” collection. A play on perspective keeps the film interesting, and the models sometimes bug in and out, making them seem almost virtual.

JUBILEE (Post Couture) NO SEASON '22 / INGRID KRAFTCHENKO “Protest!” -Derek Jarman A nod to Derek Jarman’s cult film, the film features femme queer London rebels wearing designs aimed at destroying the concept of mass production. The film can be definitely very jarring to some viewers, with the music almost grinding at you in some bits, but that adds to the dramatics.

David Koma AW22 Digital Show In a sports stadium-like setting, you hear chanting and upbeat music as soon as the video starts. Stadium lights and circle patches of green turf decorate the spacious set, and the models interweave themselves through. The collection pays respect to all classes of English society: “... the upper class, the working class, and the sporty.”

Image via YouTube - INGRID KRAFTCHENKO JUBILEE (POST COUTURE) LFW NO SEASON 22 AW22 LONDON FASHION WEEK

Image via YouTube - U.Mi-1 Unto Dust | Fashion Film | London Fashion Week AW22

Images via YouTube On|Off Fashion Show for London Fashion Week AW22

Image via YouTube - Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2022-23

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LONDON RUNWAY

PAUL COSTELLOE

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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LONDON RUNWAY

LONDON RUNWAY

SUPRIYA LELE

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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MUSHU

Photography - Anthony Yeung (An-Y @anybabyinuk) and John Lane (@johnlanevisual) with Altru Creative (@altrucreative) Model/Artist: Mushu (@yaya_thisismushu)

LONDON RUNWAY

INTERVIEW: MUSHU What kind of artists do you listen to?

All kinds really. I tend to lean towards some indie-rock mixed with some Southern (American) hip-hop, topped off with a little bit of alternative!??

Anywhere from Arctic Monkeys, EarthGang, Jetpack Jones, Lan1 Del Rey, Flyleaf to Wet Leg… Honestly, it just depends on what I'm feeling in the moment. Here, lately, it has been more of my stuff since I have been working on my production skills. I tend to tune out the world, that way my music doesn't come off as being "like" another artist. Untainted inspiration if you will.

"So, really my inspiration comes from random feelings that I translate into some tantalizing words."

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Where do you get your inspiration from for your lyrics?

That is completely random. It always starts with a thought, something I am feeling, or something that I remember feeling. Then I usually have an idea of a melody in my head that I use to find one word. That one word will sum up what I am feeling in that moment. Once I have it (that one word), I just free write or freestyle some lyrics. I like to work freely, which is great for creativity, but may also slow me down. I get a little side-tracked from time to time! So, really my inspiration comes from random feelings that I translate into some tantalizing words.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to start a music career?

Just do whatever it is that you want to.

It is about your experience and growth through this entire process. If you go in with a specific set of goals, or an "idea" of how you want things to look, then you may end up stifling your creativity.

Music is a creative art. It is not something you can force or completely control. You may start at one street and end up on another going a completely different direction. You have to be open and willing to learn. Willing to experience your successes AND failures.

If I had to sum this up into one quote then it would be this: "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast". Just take your time and be honest with yourself every step of the way.

What does an average day in your life look like?

I've been taking a hiatus from IT (Which I've been in for years now), to free up more of my time to spend with family, focus on my music, and to become more at peace with myself. Since entering this new way of life, my days have been filled with "working on something”, that's if I'm not chilling with the fam (my daughter does love my attention).

I typically wake up before everyone. I may just start my day by writing, working on a be1t that I may or may not finish, or by getting in some reading/studying on my various interests. I've got my own home studio that I have been adding to for a couple of years now, so I just he1d into there and follow whatever flow catches my drift. When the house stirs, I tend to blend my time with family and my craft.

It's been a very peaceful experience that has helped me develop my "sound" and steady my mind.

"Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."

How has making music changed for you since the beginning of the pandemic?

Technically, it was around the time of the pandemic (slightly before) that I started with music. I've always just been a closet writer (mostly poetry) my whole life. I've won a few contests growing up, but I have been pretty much private up until a couple of years ago.

Because of the pandemic, I've had a lot of time to go from not understanding a thing about music (outside of a listener's' perspective or making drums out of whatever hard surface I can use) to being able to track my own vocals and to produce a song that is worth listening to, though I am definitely not where I want to be production-wise on my own. That's okay though. It's all about progress, not perfection.

The amount of time this pandemic has afforded to me has helped my progress with music immensely for which I am extremely thankful for! I don't know if I would have had the intestinal fortitude to have kept going if I was still "stuck" at my office job. Just decompressing from that stress alone took up a lot of my creative availability.

Cover Art (Reality) created by CaffeineDream (@caffeinedream on Instagram)

LONDON RUNWAY Do you feel pressure to keep up a public image on social media?

I don't have this sense of pressure to keep up my social image; however, I do feel pressure about my consistency. I do know that I have to be consistent if I want to do music full-time. I have to build a fanbase. I feel pressure to keep producing content, which can be wildly expensive, so I tend to do it myself and adds more pressure by trying to take on more things at once (production, promo content, etc..). So ya, I feel pressure, but in the end, if you love what you do, then no amount of pressure is too much. At least, that is what I am currently telling myself!

What would you say your aesthetic is?

Chill and colourful— that is definitely my aesthetic. Not just bright, vibrant colours, but incorporating colours of all intensities into my outfit. Greens are my main thing, but tans and pink also sit well with me. It's all about the vibe, really, and I just dig it! Chill, because I like to be comfortable (haha). If it checks those two boxes, then that's right up my alley For our sustainability readers out there, what (if any) sustainable brands do you wear/like?

I haven't put too much thought behind this; I kind of collect clothes on a whim instead of shopping often. Frugality, if you will. I think it would be kind of cool, though, to mix more eco-friendly items into my wardrobe. I'll have to do my research and find some brands that fit my style!

Do you have any upcoming news/announcements you wish to share?

I've just released a new EP, called Reality, on the 11th of this month with the help of the folks down at AltruCreative* in Nashville, TN, including _grawg (for the polish and two of the beats), John Lane (for all my visuals), and Epik The Dawn (for the be1t for 'Isn't Realʼ).

This EP is very short and sweet (A little V-day reference there) with only three tracks— 'What We Spoke', 'Real Love', and 'Isn't Re1l'. The dope part about Reality is that 'Real Love' and 'Isn't Real' have the same verses (Different hooks though and a verse is extended on 'Isn't Real') but completely different vibes. I've also just started to branch out with my sound, so this is the first set of tunes that I've been able to express a "different" me.

I kind of like to be ranged; I don't want to bog myself down with just one thing, ya know? Sort of a Jack-of-all-trades.

That's not all though; I have a music video called Reality (named after the EP) that is 'Real Love' and 'Isn't Real' combined, coming out March 11th, with some more content coming out not long after! So, a lot of cool new Mushu is coming down the pipeline. Just trying to keep things heated up! Of course, all of this will be found on my socials as I post tidbits of information along the way!

Social Links/Music: Instagram: @yaya_thisismushu Facebook: @thisismushu www.mushu.ctcin.bio/ Spotify: www.open.spotify.com/album/72wZEje9 LilqvoljA3D2Nr (Spotify) Apple Music: www.music.apple.com/us/album/reality -single/1606533465 (Apple Music) *not affiliated with Altru Creative

STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli

Mr Porter Slim-Fit CottonBlend Corduroy Suit Jacket £600.00

Reve-En-Vert The Sorrow Bag £395.00

MOTHER OF PEARL Charlotte Navy Cardigan £295.00

Aspinal Of London Embellished Floral Egg Clutch £3,000 TOAST Vale Print Circle Neck Dress £195.00

Toast Slate/Chartreuse Yellow £195.00

Boden Amelia Appliqué Wool Coat £298.00

Monsoon printed jersey legging £35.00

Net-A-Porter Sage lamé midi skirt £830.00

Stella McCartney Loop Lace-Up Sneakers £425.00

Net-A-Porter Pansy 85 two-tone suede sandals £695.00

Completedworks The dishcloth of the metropolitan elite £275.00

Mr. Porter Straight-Leg Cotton-Blend Corduroy Suit Trousers £335.00

Mr. Porter + Sean Wotherspoon SUPEREARTH Superstar Embroidered Faux Leather Sneakers £85.00

NEW FOR 2022 PAGE 30

Boden Absinthe Navy Blue Flowerbed £60.00

WINTER ICELAND A journey in a frozen desert Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

Iceland is a Nordic island country in the North Atlantic Ocean and the most sparsely populated country in Europe.

It is the only part of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge that rises above sea-level, and its central volcanic plateau is erupting almost constantly.

Running almost completely on renewable energy, in 2020, it was ranked as the fourth-most developed country in the world by the United Nations' Human Development Index and it ranks first on the Global Peace Index.

Many fjords punctuate Iceland's 4,970km-long (3,088-mi) coastline, which is also where most settlements are situated.

A fjord is a long, narrow inlet with steep sides or cliffs, created by a glacier. A true fjord is formed when a glacier cuts a Ushaped valley by ice segregation and abrasion of the surrounding bedrock.

The island's interior, the Highlands of Iceland, is a cold and uninhabitable combination of sand, mountains, and lava fields. With the widespread availability of geothermal power and the harnessing of many rivers and waterfalls for hydroelectricity, most residents have access to inexpensive hot water, heating, and electricity. The island is composed primarily of basalt, a low-silica lava associated with effusive volcanism. It also has many geysers, including Geysir, from which the English word is derived.

The major towns are the capital city of Reykjavík, along with its outlying towns of Kópavogur, Hafnarfjörður, and Garðabær, nearby Reykjanesbær where the international airport is located and the town of Akureyri in Northern Iceland.

We spent the first night in Reykjavík, where the city and the surrounding areas in the southwest are home to over twothirds of the population.

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With only six hours of daylight at our disposal, with the sunrise is around 10am and sunset around 4pm in November, we decided to hit the Westfjords as our first destination.

Driving is the best way to explore Iceland. Inexperienced drivers should be extremely careful as most roads are not paved and sometimes even closed for the hash condition of winter weather.

The ride took more time than expected and we arrived at our hotel in Holmavik, a little village at the base of the peninsula, just in time for dinner (7pm). However, we found out that, with exception of the major cities, everything closes at 5pm in winter.

The Westfjords is a large peninsula in Northwest Iceland and an administrative district. It is connected to the rest of Iceland by a 7-km-wide isthmus between Gilsfjörður and Bitrufjörður. The Westfjords are very mountainous, and the coastline is heavily indented by dozens of fjords surrounded by steep hills. These indentations make roads very circuitous and communications by land difficult.

Additionally, many of the roads are closed by ice and snow for several months of the year.

The day after, we set out for the exploration of the Westfjords after a quick stop to a local supermarket 124 miles along the Westfjords’s South

coast. Roads are almost empty, so you can drive hours without seeing any car or village. The views along the way were breath-taking— a mixture of cliffs, ice, and waterfalls.

Our next stop was Akureyri, Iceland's fourth-largest municipality nicknamed the "Capital of North Iceland".

Goðafoss is a waterfall in northern Iceland, about 45 minutes from Akureyri. The water of the river Skjálfandafljót falls from a height of 12 metres over a width of 30 metres.

Mývatn is a shallow lake situated in an area of active volcanism in the north of Iceland, not far from Krafla Volcano.

It has a high amount of biological activity.

The lake and the surrounding wetlands provided a habitat for a number of waterbirds, especially ducks. The lake was created by a large basaltic lava eruption 2300 years ago, and the surrounding landscape is dominated by volcanic landforms, including lava pillars and rootless vents called pseudo craters.

The end of our journey was approaching so our next ride was along the Ring Road back to Reykjavik, but we still had the time to stop in Seltún Hot Springs, also known as Krýsuvík-Seltún, a geothermal hot spring system in the Krýsuvík volcanic area in Southwest Iceland on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge of the Reykjanes peninsula. It contained solfataras, bubbling mud pools, fumaroles, hot springs, and warm springs. The high sulphur content of the springs gave them a characteristic orange-yellow colour.

Sulphur was mined at this location until the 1880s. The hot spring water is heated from underground geothermal sources and emerge through deep cracks and vents in the crustal zone. Superheated steam rises from below the surface of a boiling underground reservoir. It condenses and mixes with groundwater, and eventually with surface water.

Tips for winter traveller: 1) As many shops close early at 5pm, plan your meals in advance.

2) Winter cold temperatures reach as low as -30 °C so bring a thermos with hot water with you and some tea to blend on the spot for a warm break during the day.

3) Leave your vehicle as repaired as possible to avoid morning freezing (We spent one hour trying to open the fuel tank one morning, which is also where the hot water can come in handy.

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NEW FACE: LIZA Name: Liza Kvins Age: 11 Location: Russia Agency: LLC Lux+lex How long have you been modelling for?

Since birth

recorded specifically for the Junior Eurovision Song Contest, "If You Want to be a Media Star". At photo shoots, I often act as a stylist. I really like to pick up images. My most favourite are anime and kawaii.

Where are you from originally?

Moscow

What would surprise people to know about you?

I was the youngest ambassador of Friendship of Peoples in 2020-2021.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I am an actress, singer, and model. I have recorded and published 8 songs on all sites. One of the songs was

What are your modelling ambitions?

I dream of becoming a TOP model and having my own clothing brand and my most popular fashion magazine.

Makeup Artist: Oksana Gavrilova @matrewka_makeup Model: LizaKvins @lizakvins Photographer: Marina Davydkina @davydkina_photo

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NEW FACE: ANASTASIYA Name: Bazdyreva Anastasiya Age: 21 Location: Russia, Moscow Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

Modelling has been my hobby for 6 years.

Where are you from originally?

Russia, Moscow

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can dance several classical dance styles such as jazz, modern, contemporary.

What would surprise people to know about you?

I work as a business travel agent.

What are your modelling ambitions?

I really like to participate in different projects. If I get a good opportunity to realize myself, I want to take advantage of it.

Model: Bazdyreva Anastasiia @anastaysha_brish Retoucher: Dmitry Zhuravlev @dima_zhuravlev_ph Photographer: Lyubov Belyavtseva @lyubovbelyavtseva WB: http://belyavtseva.com

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NEW FACE: KSENIYA Name: Kseniya Novozhilova Age: 18 Location: Kazakhstan Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

From 13 years old.

Where are you from originally?

Kazakhstan city of Petropavlovsk.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I am studying English.

What would surprise people to know about you?

My dream is to become a world class model.

What are your modelling ambitions?

Never rest on your laurels and always move forward.

Photographer: Alfiya Raimbekova @raf_photostudio Photographer: Miras Bayanov @__bayanov__ Accessory Designer: Dzyn @dzynbabe Model/Photographer: Novozhilova Ksenia @novozhilova3709 Makeup Artist: Alfiya Raimbekova @raf_stylist

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CONTRASTING Melody Lai

Aloha! My name is Melody Lai. I was born and raised in beautiful Hawaii by immigrant family members. They left Vietnam by boat in the 80s in search of a better life and landed in sunny Honolulu. This portfolio is in dedication to all their sacrifices and support.

The portfolio features contrast between bold colours and textures, which showcases a variety of lighting and angle techniques. Highlighted are the darkness versus light, masculine versus feminine, and softness versus harshness every person faces internally. I hope my portfolio inspires others. If an Asian American female in the middle of the Pacific Ocean can do it, so can you!

Model: Melody Lai Photographer: Chris Kwock

Wardrobe credit: Aspeed gown with a custom headpiece

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portfolio

Hair Stylist: Jacquelyn Paige

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piece

FANTASY

David Rodríguez was born and raised on the island of La Palma. Currently, he combines his work as a psychologist with photography. “Fantasy" (2022) shows us a collection of sensual and surreal photos with a hint of drama.

“I plan each of my sessions thoroughly, down to the last detail. I start my creative process from an idea, which can be a concept, the stanza of a song, the sequence of a movie or a photograph that I have seen. This initial idea matures until it takes shape ”.

Model: Patricia Botrán @patricia_botran Model/Makeup Artist: Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo Model: Leticia Gonzalez @leticiagonzalezconcepcion Photographer: David Rodriguez @davidofficialclub

Leticia wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Nazaret wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

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Patricia wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Models wear accessories by Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Leticia wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Nazaret wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Models wear fashion and accessories by Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Patricia wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Nazaret wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

Leticia wears Nazaret Rodriguez @nararet_rcerezo “Fantasy” Collection

LONDON RUNWAY

RETROSPECTIVE ON THE LIVES OF BIG DESIGNERS: THIERRY MUGLER This week, Ruth Croft looks into the inspiring life of one of the greatest fashion designers ever to have lived.

On the night of January 23rd, 2022, the fashion world fell silent in a lament to one of their most magical stars for at his residence in Vincennes, Paris, the magnificent Thierry Mugler had passed away at the age of 73.

Social media exploded into expressions of grief and gratitude towards the very much-loved fashion designer. Mugler wasn’t just any stylist. He was a revolution, a beautiful rebellion that rose to prominence for his independent take on fashion; that of hyperfeminine, dramatic, visionary artistry. His work is perhaps most synonymous with the extremism of avant-garde. And, of course, Mugler was also renowned for his inclusion of diversity, taking models from all walks of life and integrating them into his runway shows.

He was never frightened nor hesitant to do the unexpected, to challenge what others had done, and to make the fashion world more vibrant. It was his courage, as well as his iconic designs, that inspired so many people, both stylists, models, and everyday people alike, to brave the world of wonder and journey where others might hesitate.

Manfred Thierry Mugler was born on the 21st of December 1948 in Strasbourg, France. He admitted that he held little interest in school, permitting his passions for drawing and creativity to take over academics. At the age of nine, he began to study classical dance and eventually went on to join the ballet corps for the Rhin Opera (Opéra National du Rhin). During this time, Mugler attended the Strasbourg School of Decorative Arts, beginning his education of interior design. This ultimately led him to creating his own clothes and sparked the legend he would become. Upon moving to Paris in his early twenties, Mugler began

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designing for a boutique, and a mere two years later, he started creating styles on a freelance basis for fashion houses across Paris, London, Milan, and Barcelona.

It wasn’t until 1973 that Mugler made his first real move into the established fashion industry. Mugler launched his career with a collection called Café de Paris and was soon awarded the support of fashion editor Melka Tréanton, who chose to showcase his work in Tokyo for a multinational cosmetic event in 1976. Two years after that, Mugler unveiled his first boutique in Paris, just a short distance from the Palais Royal. This establishment, in the confluence of six major streets in the city, soon gained widespread attention from both fashion designers and regular clientele.

In the two decades that followed, Mugler transformed into an internationally revered fashion designer. His designs were renowned

for their individualism— broad shoulder pads on retrograde suits, celestial glamour, and even a vampiredevil theme in one of his runway shows. He became even more famous for these extraordinary events. He experimented with a sci-fi look and an aquatic look, all performed to an arenalike environment. And, as his popularity rose, so did his inspiration. Mugler finalised his first haute couture collection in 1992.

Mugler also decided to venture into the world of film. He designed costumes for musical comedies, in addition to concerts and the theatre. He was awarded the accolade of designing “the most famous dress of the 1990s,’ for Demi Moore’s iconic dress in the movie, Indecent Proposal. He designed the outfits for George Michael’s music video, ‘Too Funky,” which he also directed, and later went on to resurrect vintage designs for Lady Gaga’s music video, ‘Telephone.”

It was these experiences that perhaps encouraged other celebrities to collaborate with Mugler. His time as a designer saw him create visionary styles for icons, such as Madonna, David Bowie, Grace Jones, Diana Ross, and Beyoncé. In his later years, Mugler often worked with American rapper, Cardi B, allowing her to showcase his most classic creations on the red carpet.

Mugler didn’t stop there. For the 2019 Met Gala, hosted in New York city, he dressed Kim Kardashian in a one-off design: a peach/tan-coloured latex gown, trickling with crystals. His vision for Kardashian was to be, “a Californian girl stepping out of the ocean, wet, dripping.”

It was these experiences that perhaps encouraged other celebrities to collaborate with Mugler. His time as a designer saw him create visionary styles for icons, such as Madonna, David Bowie, Grace Jones, Diana Ross, and Beyoncé. In his later years, Mugler often worked with American rapper, Cardi B, allowing her to showcase his most classic creations on the red carpet.

Mugler didn’t stop there. For the 2019 Met Gala, hosted in New York city, he dressed Kim Kardashian in a one-off design: a peach/tan-coloured latex gown, trickling with crystals. His vision for Kardashian was to be, “a Californian girl stepping out of the ocean, wet, dripping.” It was certainly a look that inspired discussion and quickly became one of the most talked about designs at the Met Gala that year.

However, the majority of these iconic moments were actually during Mugler’s retirement from fashion. Having introduced his first perfume in 1992, Angel, Mugler turned his attention to the art of fragrance. He created a masculine scent to compliment the original in 1996, naming it A*Men. Then in 2005, he created the second most popular perfume in his brand, Alien, which took the world by storm with its jasmine and amber aroma.

Together, these perfumes make an approximate of $280 million in sales every year.

That, and the brand’s return to fashion in 2010 under an alternate creative director, made Mugler one of the highest profiled and influential fashion designers of our time.

It wasn’t just his vision that inspired his fans. Mugler was openly gay and incorporated the LGBTQ+ community as much as possible in his work on the runway. He casted trans models in his shows from the 1980s and worked with drag queens to make his styles come alive. Mugler also had a desire to defy the contemporary ideals of modelling, taking a diverse set of models from all eras and putting them in his shows.

Perhaps most famous was his fall haute couture show in 1995 where he showcased modelling legends like Jerry Hall, Carmen Dell’Orefice, Naomi Campbell, and Kate Moss, as well as acting stars Julie Newmar and Tippi Hedren. It was his intention to, “show beauty through the ages.”

Right til the end, Mugler was a creation of redesign. He never stopped seeking possibilities. He never turned his back on himself, not even for a moment. He said, “I wanted to be a warrior. I’ve done so much in my life. I’ve fought so much.

I’m a superhero.” He was fearless.

And for that, the fashion community will forever remember him.

To read more of Ruth’s work, you can follow her on Instagram @thewriterruth.

Images via Canva and respective Instagrams

LONDON RUNWAY

Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

ON|OFF

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KAY KWOK Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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NEW BUSINESS THE UPNORTH VINTAGE CLUB

Name of company: The Upnorth Vintage Club Type of business: Fashion/Reworked Clothing Location: Manchester, UK

What are your company values?

My main value is sustainability. I rework vintage men's blazers into new pieces for women (or men!). I do everything myself so I know exactly where each piece has come from.

How long has the company been running?

1 Year Where did the idea come from?

I have a degree in fashion and have always loved mixing traditional menswear with womenswear. I initially reworked a men's blazer into a two piece for myself and knew there was a market for this kind of thing as soon as I wore it out.

What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business?

Go for it! I run The Upnorth Vintage Club alongside my regular job, and as tiring as it is, it's also so rewarding.

Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time?

Wow! I'd love TUVC to have been noticed as a brand by thousands! Why dream small hey?!

Currently, how many people work for the business?

So far, just myself!

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Atmosfear

Collage Artist/Photographer: Seigar@jseigar

This collage series explores the concepts of cancel culture, censorship, control, propaganda, and the manipulation of the media and social networks. The intention is to show, expose and denounce these dangerous issues, and the need to fight for freedom. The inspiration can be found in the situations people are experiencing in their everyday life and the vigilant processes of personal data. Pop images of hard oppressions and clear statements were used to reinforce the atmosphere of fear. Stop it!

Everybody should live with no fear. The world is in our hands.

Together and free.

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BOOK CLUB

Failosophy: a handbook for when things go wrong

BY ELIZABETH DAY

This week Hannah Whittaker is looking at Failosophy: a handbook for when things go wrong, by award-winning journalist and author Elizabeth Day.

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When January 2022 briskly arrived, I once again decided to jot down some of my reading goals for the year. My reading patterns consist largely of fiction novels, so, this year, I decided to delve deeper into the world of non-fiction. I think that the reason so many people are drawn into fictional worlds is because they provide an escape from reality, and some people (me being one of them) turn away from non-fiction books due to the worry that they won’t provide the same unique reading experience. Two months into 2022 and two non-fiction books down, I can happily say my intentions to read more non-fiction has allowed a new reading experience to bloom for me. My previous two book club reviews are both fictional novels, so I thought it was about time to introduce you all to one of the amazing non-fiction books that I have read this month.

The name Elizabeth Day may already be familiar with some of you, as she hosts a popular podcast called ‘How to fail with Elizabeth Day’. Day’s podcast describes itself as one that “celebrates the things that haven’t gone right” and invites special guests to talk about their failures and what these experiences have taught them.

The podcast episodes have featured some extraordinary people, from Graham Norton to Phoebe WallerBridge (my personal favourite episode). Day’s success with her podcast has lined her up perfectly to delve into the world of non-fiction writing and has produced, in my opinion, a perfect little handbook that will appeal to all readers whether you just read fiction, read every day, or don’t read at all.

In 2019, Day released her first nonfiction novel titled How to Fail, where she took a more personal approach. This book can be considered part memoir, part manifesto, where Day takes us through rich stories from her own life. How to Fail and Failosophy differ in a number of ways, with her more recent book taking a more structured route in describing what Day has established as the ‘seven failure principles’. Failosophy, consisting of only 145 pages,

is designed to be something that you can jump in and out of. In the introduction, Day states herself, “read it all in one go, or dip into relevant sections whenever you encounter failure in a specific part of your life”. I absolutely love this framework that Day has built her book upon as, for non-frequent readers, the act of reading or finishing a book becomes a whole lot less intimidating. Some people find it difficult to fit in personal reading around their busy lives, and this book caters to that perfectly.

One element of this book that I instantly picked up on is how relevant it is in today’s society. We live in a world where many people struggle to deal with their failures, and with the constant pressure from social media and online platforms, we are led to believe that some people don’t even fail at all, presenting their perfect “unedited” lives online. Clearly, most people know that what they see on Instagram or Tik Tok is only part of the picture and that part is what the users choose to show us.

We are faced with false realities that make us doubt our own failures in life and how we should be dealing with them. In Failosophy, Day draws on her conversations with her guests on her podcast show, weaving their candid discussions into her failure principles. Hearing from these celebrities and the particular struggles that they’ve faced helps make this book a genuine and honest read, with the reader being able to identify and find similarities with well-known individuals who, from the outside, may appear to never have failed at all. Being vulnerable and sharing your failures in life is, as Day says, an act of compassion, which ultimately connects people rather than isolating them.

Intertwined into her seven principles and podcast snippets, Day brings a certain humour to her writing which allows the reader to read comfortably. It isn’t easy for anyone to face up to their failures and overcome them, and the topics

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that Day addresses can be difficult to read when you apply them personally.

However, by bringing humour and familiarity into her writing, she offers a frank and vulnerable insight into her and her interviewee’s lives. I found that the different perspectives that were provided also made this a good read.

Ultimately, there is no right way to deal with failure and reading individual stories and how each of them coped made that very clear. The road to dealing with failure is certainly not straight and narrow, and by providing different accounts, Day allows the reader to learn how these seven principles, if any, can apply to them personally.

All in all, Day provides an adaptable guide to take you through the process of failing, how to deal with it, how to learn from it, and how to move onwards with your life. There is genuine help and advice offered to the reader, a lot of which I will think of when I process my own failures in the future, but Day also acknowledges that these principles won’t work for everyone. I found this read encouraging, insightful, and courageous from all accounts and appreciated her overall message that we all need to try and let go of the fear of failure. Although some concepts that Day draws upon are not new, it is important to be reminded and go back to the basics. I loved this book and will definitely be dipping back into it when I need a gentle reminder that my failures are normal, and I have the power to deal with them!

Page-turner: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Complexity: ⭐⭐⭐ Factualness: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Fashions Finest Photography by Ian Clark @photo.by.ian

AKKA

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ALMARA

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CARAT23

ISADORA

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MIDE

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MILENA

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PRETTY

PSYCH

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SOLEILE

SERONGA

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SWIM

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TOOMEY

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TRIBAL HOTEL

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FINDING THE RIGHT PR AGENCY INTERVIEW WITH I SHO PR AGENCY AND LAURA BLAIR

Anna interviews Instagram and YouTube influencer Laura Blair (@thelaurablair) to find out more about her path to PR management, with some insights into what it is like to run a digital PR agency postpandemic from Isobel Berman, the founder of I SHO PR. At some point during the lockdown(s), you have probably encountered a social media post in which stated something along the lines of “the pandemic is a challenge, but on the other side of the challenge lies opportunity”.

I, personally, read this as motivational gibberish while scrolling down Instagram’s infinite feed of finite creativity. I usually do not believe that creativity should be described as finite, but when we spent months enclosed in the same four walls, opportunities for creative output can be objectively limited.

From that created I SHO’s brand philosophy: “ensuring the best products are seen on the best people and in the best places.”

Isobel notes, “Unlike many other agencies, whose value-adding ends at administrative support, we strive to offer a ‘full-stack influencer management’.” With multiple departments to cater to influencers’ every need, including photography, publicity, administration, and personal shopping, they definitely achieve that!

“ensuring the best products are seen on the best people and in the best places.”

Isobel Berman, the founder of I SHO PR agency, found a different perspective.

She used the time in isolation to reflect on what was wrong with the PR management offers currently in the market and a few things came to mind.

For instance, say you are an aspiring influencer, dreaming of landing a partnership with a luxury brand but the chances that you will be gifted anything above the mid-range are very slim or near non-existent unless you already sport a luxury brand wardrobe. Hence, blossoming talent is cut off from more lucrative deals.

So, Isobel thinks to herself, “..., why not expand the list of benefits that our signed talent can enjoy? Why not make use of my personal collection of luxury investments, by lending them to our influencers. It is not a big deal for me, but for them, it is a real opportunity to break out and attract more high-end brands.”

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I got to sit down with Laura (@thelaurablair), a London-based beauty and fashion influencer a part of I SHO, who recently signed four new partnerships with sustainable luxury brands in the last six months.

How would you rate the following expectations, from most to least important for you personally?

3. Support with content creation photographers, stylists, fashion rentals 1. Connecting you with the right brands and negotiating your deal 4. PR event bookings 2. Helping you develop a long-term strategy L: 3, 1, 4, 2.

What’s your favourite thing about working on high fashion collaborations with I SHO?

Are you able to concentrate more on your creativity when you work with I SHO on collaborations?

L: I love getting to work with such beautiful designs. For me, creativity has always been the leading principle of my work and high fashion always lends itself to this. As social media has evolved into video content, you really get to bring a product off the shelf to life. Also, the credibility that comes with high fashion collaborations is always rewarding. I always get a “pinch me” moment when I book a job with a brand I’ve seen in the pages of Vogue because it all started with a tripod in my bedroom.

L: Even when working through a PR agency, a brand can still set out a brief and guidelines, so it is not very different from working with brand representatives directly. One thing that I appreciate is when PR agencies set up events or press trips that really lend themselves to creativity. The ones that work best are when they really think about what environment an influencer likes to be in to capture great content.

Do you feel like working with management ever compromises your creativity?

L: It really depends on the brand and how they go about working with influencers. If a brand sets out too many guidelines, it can really look staged and the audience will see through it. I really enjoy full creative control. An influencer will usually know what works best for their audience and it will be unique to them.

So, it’s important for any management company to make sure the brand's expectations fit my feed.

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After getting Laura’s insight into the company, Isobel elaborated on some of the inner workings and nuances of the agency. As well as offering some advice to aspiring talent managers.

Can you share, from your experience, some dos and don’ts when it comes to recruiting PR talent?

I: At first, I was obviously keen to sign anyone because I wanted to build our roster and reputability, but, to build reputability, you need to work with reputable influencers with content that actually aligns with your network and passions. Don’t just work with anyone who’s available!

Do: … your due diligence, check engagement rates, and, most importantly, follower quality. It’s easy to book one job, but we really value long-term relationships and you don’t get those without results. All the girls we work with now have really amazing communities with huge value.

Don’t: … lock people into huge contracts. Yes, contracts are definitely necessary, but loads of agencies lock

people into 2 or 3-year contracts and they have talent who are unhappy with the service but locked in. I want people to work with me because we actually do what we say we will, not because they have to. And, if you force people to work with you, you’ll never maintain a great reputation.

Do: … maintain friendships with your talent. I’ve always been told not to mix business with pleasure, but I think what sets us apart is that we really do care about every single girl we represent. I think doing what you do, from the heart, is what drives results, and that requires building relationships you really cherish with people you’d do anything for.

Throughout the last two years, a lot of people struggled with social media overload. Do you address the issue of social media fatigue and mental health with your talent? If so, how?

I: Absolutely, though I do think influencers get too much stick for the effects social media has on so many people.

Influencers have always existed, dating

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back hundreds of years in all sorts of capacities. It’s just the platform that has changed and, of course, the fact we are exposed constantly is a very modern, real challenge.

All of the girls we work with present a very caring, transparent, and often inspirational outlook to their audiences, and I think young people nowadays having real people (rather than the editorial glossy pictures I grew up with) as idols is always a good, positive thing.

In regards to our talent, we do undertake most of the admin which we really hope takes the weight off and allows for proper work-life balance, which can be really tricky when influencers are often demanded by audiences to be ‘available’ and ‘presentable’ 24/7.

We also always champion taking time off whenever you need it, and by providing legal support and personal assistants for free with our services, we can ensure any work can be cancelled and postponed if needed to maintain or support the wellbeing of any of our creators.

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What do you look for in an influencer when recruiting; is it creativity first, a stand-out personality or high levels of engagement?

I: Community! I’ve been saying this for a while, but in 2022, the community is key. I’ve noticed that content and engagement/followers aren’t as important as they have been and that having a strong community (of any size) is the most valuable commodity for making a career out of ‘influencing’.

Having a genuine relationship with your followers is so valued— being honest, organic, and selecting the right brands to work with. We all listen when our friends tell us they LOVE a product or service, and that’s why influencing marketing works because it’s like hearing advice from a virtual bestie! So, the stronger the relationships with the talent the better as far as I’m concerned.

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LONDON REPRESENTS LONDON RUNWAY

Photography by Ian Clark @photo.by.ian

Designers in Order: KF Dear Ocean Noemi Dresses Smart Adaptive AUF Ran by Nature Unhidden Seref Tracy Toulouse SB Shop AUF Sophia Tel Poetry House Yoga Elidy's Couture

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Another season of LFW and another season of trends, Candice brings you past and current fashion week trends that just screams the respective zodiac signs!

Aries March 21 - April 20

Matte Vegan-leather Trench Coat - Lichi With typical London weather remaining as chilly as it is, this vegan-leather trench coat is the perfect addition to these fiery signs’ wardrobes. A trend that really blew up in 2020, faux maxi leather trench coats can still be seen on the chicest fashion enthusiasts!

Taurus April 21 - May 21

Faux Shearling Aviator Jacket - Topshop Copenhagen’s 2022 Fashion Week hints at the resurgence of the aviator jackets! Durable, practical, and stylish, it checks all the boxes for Tauruses to purchase their own for the upcoming season.

Gemini May 22- June 21

Classic Platform Graphic Clog - Crocs From being ridiculed and trolled to being a household name, Crocs really made a comeback in 2021. You can see a pair in almost every Geminis’ home with colours ranging the entire rainbow spectrum!

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Cancer June 22- July 22 Etta Tier Dress - AMUR The 2020 Victorian Oversized Sleeves trend is perfect for these romantic, vintage-loving signs. The soft, feminine silhouette is complimented nicely with the modern waist belt design.

Leo July 23- August 21 Aziza Knit Dress - Cult Gaia 2021 cut-out knits are still going strong today with the fashion icons Leos being the trailblazers! With a unique structure and design to flatter any body type, Leos can’t help but turn all the heads.

Virgo August 22- September 23 Oakley Navy Jacket - Mother of Pearl The go-getters of the signs, Virgos can be spotted sporting the Structured Suits trend brought back by Stockholm’s 2022 Fashion Week. The jacquard patterning adds a bit of flair to the suit combination.

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Libra September 24- October 23

Big Bud Bucket Hat - Big Bud Press The 2020 bucket hat but make it in Libra pastels! Popular in the 1980s and 90s, it has definitely made its comeback in recent years as a sporty, fun addition to any outfit.

Scorpio

October 24- November 22

Vegan Jadon II Mono Platform Boots - Dr. Martens Despite how established Dr. Martens are, you can definitely see a rise in popularity in 2019 and again in 2021. Scorpios can be seen wearing any style of these durable, timetested staples.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Men’s Organic Cotton Flannel Shirt Rapanui 2018 Tartans and Plaids are one of those trends that dip in and out constantly! With the array of options and colour combos, a Sagittarius who loves buying every colour of their classic wardrobe go-tos will definitely have a few of these in their closet.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 UO Patterned Sweater Vest - Urban Outfitters From the early 90s and 00s preppy fashion era, sweater vests definitely made their return in 2021. Loving the comfortable, versatile nature of this trend, busy Capricorns will love being able to throw one on and go right about their days.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19

Patent-leather Slit-detailed Mini Skirt Lichi Y2K nostalgia can be seen everywhere, emerging around the time the pandemic was at its peak. Fashion adventurers Aquarians can be seen sporting any style of this 90s and early 00s trend!

Pisces February 20 - March 20 The Louie Toile Queen of Angels Gown - Selkie The most recent 2022 New York Fashion Week can be seen filled with the Dresseddown Gowns aesthetic. As the sign most constantly stuck in between reality and fantasy, Pisceans naturally are drawn to this oxymoronic trend.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers

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TAIPEI FASHION WEEK Images via Dyelog PR

Jenn Lee

Claudia Wang

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Photography by Ian Clark @photo.by.ian

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VICTORIA JENKINS

THE DESIGNER PAVING THE WAY FOR ADAPTIVE FASHION Lucy Brown speaks to Victoria Jenkins, the founder of adaptive fashion brand Unhidden, about inclusivity, accessibility, and breaking down barriers in mainstream fashion.

Adaptive fashion involves designs that cater to the needs and abilities of people with various levels of disability. This can range from additional zippers to wrap-style designs for easy access. Victoria Jenkins, who became disabled herself in her 20s and living with a number of gastrointestinal and pain related conditions, created adaptive brand Unhidden in 2016 and released her first collection in 2020. As a fashion veteran herself, having previously worked with the likes of Victoria Beckham and Jack Wills, she creates her sustainable designs using deadstock cloth and offers customers the option to make specific alterations to help benefit them even further.

an internal band across the stomach, making the clothing easier for those with a variety of health conditions. “Through positive representation, my hope is for fashion to be a part of the shift towards equity and meaningful, lasting inclusion of every body,” Victoria says.

The market for adaptive fashion is high, with the UK’s disabled community worth £247 billion annually. However, there are very few designers out there creating these adaptive pieces. In fact, there are currently more clothing ranges for dogs than there are for people with disabilities, putting into perspective the severity of the situation.

Looking back at the history of adaptive fashion, American designer Helen Cookman seems to be the earliest pioneer for adaptive designs. She

created a sample collection titled Functional Fashions in 1959 consisting of 17 items made to make dressing easier for disabled people. The collection featured Velcro fastenings, zippers, and double layered fabrics. These modifications became increasingly useful for injured or disabled soldiers who had returned from World War II. Sadly, Helen died in 1973 before she could secure a mass-market distribution deal, leaving behind little remnants as many of the clothes were lost or archived.

Last November, Unhidden became the first adaptive and disabled-owned brand to become a member of the British Fashion Council (BFC), something that Victoria is extremely proud of but also acknowledges that there is still a long way to go in the fashion industry when it comes to inclusivity.

“My biggest goal is to make Unhidden a truly universally, design-led global brand,” she says, “creating both opportunity and education for all marginalised groups with as little environmental impact as possible. ” The brand is about more than just stylish, inclusive, and ethical fashion; it’s also about creating equity for the disabled and chronic sick community.

With trousers that are specifically designed for people in wheelchairs, offering a longer back rise, removed excess from behind the knee, and zip entry at each side, Unhidden does just that. They also offer a double-layered dress with a keyhole access detail and

“THROUGH POSITIVE REPRESENTATION, MY HOPE IS FOR FASHION TO BE A PART OF THE SHIFT TOWARDS EQUITY AND MEANINGFUL, LASTING INCLUSION OF EVERYBODY. ” PAGE 119

“Joining the British Fashion Council wasn’t part of my plan or something that I thought could happen for me until last year. I think the reason it’s taken this long for an adaptive brand to become a member is that there simply aren’t any other designers or brands that have the eligibility to join under the adaptive design flag, there just aren’t any other UK designers meeting the requirements yet,” Victoria says.

Now a member of the BFC, Unhidden debuted their collection at LFW on the February 20th for the first time on their official schedule. The show took place at Istituto Marangoni, London School of Fashion and Design, a full circle moment for Victoria who studied fashion design there back in 2008.

To keep in line with Unhidden’s goals of sustainability and accessibility, the show was a hybrid of a traditional catwalk show with a digital presentation and a Q&A session.

Unhidden also became the first adaptive brand to have retail space in multiple locations after partnering with retail start-up Sook. Having had spaces on Oxford Street and The Grafton in Cambridge, this is just the start of Victoria’s dream to bring accessible, adaptive fashion to the high street. “In the shorter term, the goal is collaborating with high street retailers so that universal design becomes more accessible in terms of price point,” she says.

As Victoria isn’t currently at the price point she had hoped to be at, she plans to create workshops showing people how to adapt their existing clothing to help fit their needs and save their wardrobe in the hopes of making adaptive fashion accessible for all. As well as this, Victoria is also working on an adaptive alteration service that utilises the skills of disabled and chronically sick machinists.

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Looking to the future, Victoria can only hope that more brands, particularly high street retailers, branch out into making adaptive and inclusive designs, pushing it to the forefront of mainstream fashion. “The knowledge, the tech, and the accessibility consultants and designers are all there, ready to help brands meaningfully engage with this demographic,” she says.

It isn’t just the consumers that benefit from making brands more accessible, it’s also in the brands’ best interests.

Victoria says,

“IT MAKES BETTER BUSINESS SENSE AND MAKES BUSINESSES MORE PROFITABLE TO BE INCLUSIVE, SO IT BLOWS MY MIND THAT IT’S TAKING SO LONG FOR CHANGE.” Victoria believes that “the industry needs to not only represent us but bring us into the room; from education to hiring practise, content creation to marketing – we cannot be what we don’t see.”

For more of Lucy’s work follow @lucyzbrown on Instagram.

Images via Victoria Jenkins

QA

THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

&

“Yellow”

“Pink. But then I probably wouldn't get many jobs!!”

- Renee, Model

- BellaMichelleTaps, Model/Student

“BLACK. IT'S TIMELESS, IT'S CLASSIC, IT GOES WITH EVERYTHING. ” – Ruth Croft, Writer

“WHITE.”

- Faizz Mir, Fashion Model

“Red.” - Liberty Victoria, Fashion Designer

“Black. Always black. You won't ever change my mind. 😆”

Green.

- Rebecca Arundell, Model

- Natalie Walker, Nail Artist

“Orange” - Sandra Monero, Doll Clothes Maker

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT LFW AW19 OFS COLLECTIVE BY FIL MAZZARINO