London Runway Issue 72 - The Rebirth Issue by London Runway

HAIRSTYLING TIPS . OLLI HULL INTERVIEW . LOGO COMPETITION . STAY FIT + GET BACK ON YOUR FEET

IA LONDON . HOUSE OF IKONS . COP26 GALA . OH POLLY . AADNEVIK . ROKER . VIN+OMI . ROBYN LYNCH

ISSUE 72 27TH MARCH 2022

THE REBIRTH ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley Staff Writers: Ruth Croft Advertising enquiries - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Tongxin Li (Diana), Anna Schultz, Lucy Brown, Eugenia Kovaleva, Vero Leonova, Anton Shuprov, Shota Kamei, Amalia, Мария Богатырева, Kristina, Рамин, Ирина Волкова, Anna Matyukha, Moon Thea, and IBEAM Fashion

Special thanks to Olli Hull

Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Staff Graphic Designer Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene

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CONTENTS

6 VISUALS Aadnevik

Oh Polly

IA London

Glimpses (Cover Editorial)

Aynie and La Rando

New Faces

Portfolio Piece

Roker

Labrum London

48 Sofia Turekova

House of iKons

Chabs UK

110

WORDS Logo Competition Launch

How to Re-establish Yourself After a Big Change

How to Style Your Hair for a Photoshoot

'Paris Through a Tunnel' Exhibition

Vin + Omi

New Business: Moon Thea

Hip Curve

New Business: IBEAM Fashion

Robyn Lynch

Bate Nate H.

Style (Conscious) Guide: Style Clash

Interview: Olli Hull

Jaded Life Collective

Your Style Horoscope

106

COP26 Gala

Women Weightlifting in Later Life

120

Marvin Nonis

The Big Question

123

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l I’m back, baby! … Literally. I’m so happy to be back with you all for this latest issue of London Runway, although I do find myself wishing I had a little more time on maternity leave too. As any new parent will tell you, the time goes so fast – and before you know it, you’re juggling deadlines with feeds and Zoom meetings with nappy changes. But enough about me, because there are far more serious things happening out there in the world right now. First, a statement on the ongoing conflict in Ukraine: we’d like it to be known that London Runway absolutely stands on the side of peace and condemns the actions of the Russian army in invading another country. Our current policy on submissions from Russian photographers, models, or designers stands with that outlined by Kavyar: we are not able to take payments from within the country, and we of course have no plans to go there to create in-house work ourselves. Before the conflict began, we had

already agreed to publish the work of a small number of Russian artists. Because this is a legally binding contract, we will go ahead and publish those pieces, but we will not be taking in any more until peace comes. I hope that our readers can understand the thought process behind this decision. It’s certainly not easy for us to cut off a potential source of revenue, being an indie and self-funded publication as we are, but the safety of our readers is also extremely important to us. We put that first over financial considerations every time. In lighter news, my return to the helm of the magazine does bring with it some changes and refreshes – which is why we’re calling this the Rebirth issue. First, you’ll notice that our website has seen a total overhaul over at londonrunway.co.uk – I hope you’ll enjoy the new design. We’ve also integrated a brand new online shop where you can now pick up new print copies, back issues, and merchandise directly from us.

There are more changes to come, so make sure that you keep an eye on our socials and the new website for things working a bit differently. We’re going to be redesigning parts of our layout with a fresh new design team, we’ve got a new competition coming up later in the year, and there are plenty more thrilling things to come that I can’t speak on yet! Do keep an eye out this issue, however, for the logo design competition. We ran it last year and it was a lot of fun, and we can’t wait to see what you come up with this time around! Finally, I’d like to close by applauding the work of our three interim editors – Alex Panek, Fil Mazzarino, and Candice Wu. They did an excellent job of putting the magazine out while I was away, didn’t they? I’ve been reading along with the rest of you, and I loved what I saw. I’m even more excited now about what we can create together in the future!

Enjoy -

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

AADNEVIK Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

LONDON RUNWAY

OH POLLY Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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LONDON RUNWAY

IA LONDON Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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LONDON RUNWAY

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Image via Canva

LOGO DESIGN CHALLENGE 2022

After the success of last year’s logo competition, we’re on the hunt again for a creative mind to give us a fresh look! Whether you are a graphic designer, a student (over 18), an established artist, or just a creative amateur, we would like to see you designing a new logo for our magazine. The competition is for everyone. Take part and do not miss the chance to have an interview published in an upcoming issue and a featured

WHAT WE WANT

HOW IT WORKS

As always, the logo design should be aligned with the magazine’s core values. We are proud of our ethos and we want people to support it with their ideas.

The competition will run over the course of two issues. We are now starting to take entries and we will check through them all with a fine-toothed comb for originality, creativity, and how well you have followed the brief.

Therefore, do not forget your design should reflect the fact that we are: Ethical Diverse Sustainable

We will then be posting our top selection of up to ten finalists on Instagram. Make sure to re-share the posts we make and get everybody to vote on your design. The more likes your design receives, the higher chance you have to win!

We would like to see the way you interpret these terms.

The final winner will be announced in May’s issue (Issue 74).

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LONDON RUNWAY

SUBMIT YOUR DESIGN You are the one to decide how your logo will be. It can be anything related to London Runway. Let all your imagination and creativity free and have the chance to get noticed by established graphic designers. After creating your logo, submit your design on our website with the corresponding personal information, such as your full name, social media links, etc. After submission, we will share all the designs on our social media pages, where a public vote will determine the winner!

Requirements: The format should be .jpg or .png and the size should be 1080px x 1080px with the logo in the centre. The logo can be in colour or black and white. If it is a font-based design, it needs to be legible in a small format like an Instagram profile picture. A short explanation of the concept should be included with your submission. (you can but don’t have to include brainstorming method used, drawing, process pictures etc) Align your design with our core values mentioned above. Must be your own work and design (no copyrighted works or images) Keep in Mind: Read through the full guidelines and make sure to fulfil all the requirements Put all your positivity and artistic flair in your design Don’t hold back if you have an extreme idea! We want to be impressed!

THE WINNER: PRIZES AND MORE! The lucky winner will see their design featured in our magazine and shared through all our social media pages!

The winner will also receive:

FREE ISSUE WITH THEIR LOGO PRINTED ON THE COVER LOGO PRINTED AS BLACK AND WHITE STICKER OPPORTUNITY TO BE INTERVIEWED FOR THE ISSUE AND SHOWCASE YOUR PORTFOLIO

SO... WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? Every submission has an equal chance to win, so do not lose time and start working NOW! This is an amazing opportunity to show us your skills and creative flair. Submit your design and who knows? You could see your designs in the next issues!

DEADLINE: APRIL 20TH 2022

YOU CAN SUBMIT VIA OUR WEBSITE HERE: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/LOGOCOMP2 PAGE 16

LONDON RUNWAY

LAST YEAR'S WINNER AND ENTRIES 1.

6. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Myron Macapagal Jaakko Tikkanen Arne Lawrence Isabella Martinetti Mary Matthews Ignatius Bimo Nugroho PAGE 17

GLIMPSES routine days interspersed with color

Photographer/Retoucher/Creative Director: Eugenia Kovaleva @pro_zhuk Models: Vera Leonova @kinesio.yogess; Anton Shuprov @igorevich9222

Vera wears: Dress - JLP

Vera wears: Top and leggings - Oysho Anton wears: T-shirt - Intimissimi, Jeans - Zara

Vera wears: Top - Oysho Anton wears: T-shirt - Intimissimi

Vera wears: Dress - Toppies Anton wears: T-shirt - H&M, Jeans - Zara

Vera wears: Dress - Yessica; Anton wears: T-shirt - H&M

Anton wears: T-shirt - H&M

LONDON RUNWAY

HOW TO RE-ESTABLISH YOURSELF AFTER A BIG CHANGE This week, Ruth Croft explores how to bounce back from the changes in adulthood that we all experience.

and potential, wondering where they will be in five years, what they will have achieved, or who they will have met.

There is nothing quite so daunting as lying in bed, staring up at the ceiling, and realising that you have no idea what you’re doing with your life. It is a feeling that is especially lonely. You feel trapped in your own thoughts, paralysed by what you think you want. Sometimes, you can even see it right in front of you, like a light in a sea of darkness, and yet you cannot quite figure out how to get there. That’s perhaps the biggest problem. It's getting there that is so hard.

Of course, there really is no way to tell. The only way to move on is to keep going; to see where the world takes you. However, that takes time, and when we’re in a vulnerable state, all we really need is something immediate to ease our minds. So, here are some ways that we can re-establish ourselves after a big change or an upheaval in life.

Even as you lie there in sweltering sheets, heart pounding and feeling more isolated than ever, there is a part of you that realises this is a universal thing. Everyone feels like this sometimes. Every single person in the entire world has felt overwhelmed by their future

RELATIONSHIP SHIFTS AND GRIEF Our twenties and thirties are a time where huge changes happen recurrently. One of the most common instances of this are relationship shifts. Some people meet their partner early on. The next thing you know, there’s wedding bells and you’re throwing ivory and rose confetti. The bride tosses the bouquet into the crowd, hands reach

All images via Pexels

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out, desperate for their touch of love. You stand still, unsure whether to try to catch it or not. You watch as it slips through someone’s fingers and falls to the ground and think how appropriate that is because the majority of us are not so lucky, and the idea of one day putting a wedding dress on seems like a fantasy. There’s a reason why tv shows like Love Island exist, and it’s not just so we can watch beautiful people in bikinis. The modern age of dating is a battlefield. You’re being attacked at every turn and struck repeatedly by half-hearted matches on Tinder, onenight stand culture, getting nervous before your date and drinking too much wine, the conversations that slowly dwindle into silence, and, most of all, the 'I’m just not that into you'. Even when you finally find someone, there’s a chance that it won’t end well, and you have to start all over again. Only this

LONDON RUNWAY

time, you’re even more bloodied and bruised than before. Of course, having your heart broken is one of life’s promises. It happens to us all, and it’s a necessary pain, something we need, even though, in the moment, we refuse to believe it. But how you’re supposed to pick yourself back up from it is very often a mystery. There is something very painful about standing there and doing nothing; to see everyone else move on and see yourself stuck in a love that ruined you. So, how do we become unstuck? What do we have to change inside ourselves to break out of that vicious nightmare and start again?

HAVE A CRY Well, to heal a broken heart means tackling it head on. When you’re grieving, that seems like the worst idea imaginable, but it is the only real way through. Your emotions will be running high, so let them. Have a cry. Listen to every heartbreak anthem on Spotify. Eat an entire tub of ice-cream whilst watching a Nicholas Sparks movie to wallow in it, at least for a little while. You have to let yourself feel and let the pain in. When it slowly starts to hurt less, you can start rebuilding yourself. SOCIALISE AND EXPLORE It’s important to say yes to socialising, whether that’s a night out with the girls, or just a coffee and a walk. Reconnect with friends you haven’t seen in a while. Focus on your work, but also your hobbies. Go dancing. Try something new. Clear out the clutter in your heart, and you will start to feel whole again. CAREER CHANGES AND DOUBT Another potential for recurrent change lies within our careers. We’re supposed to decide what we want to do with the rest of our lives at a very young age, and there is a certain amount of stigma that surrounds you when you might wish to divert from that.

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LONDON RUNWAY

LEARN AND EDUCATE

Among the industries, the fashion world is the true meaning of change. It is a place where you really see the passing of time. As an adult with a busy life, it can be hard to keep up with the trends and the best options with regards to sustainability. We want to be making the best choices for ourselves and for the world in its entirety, but it’s hard to combine all these factors into an image that best represents ourselves. The changes within the industry seem out of our control, which makes it even harder.

When I was 18, my dream was to become a published author and all I wanted to do was write. But I knew that would take time and that I needed to be sensible. So, I went to university; I studied for a good degree, one that could get me a ‘realistic’ job at the end of it. I planned to venture into the world of journalism or publishing, and I started writing on a freelance basis. But, through all of this, I was paranoid that I had chosen wrong. I was burned out and finding writing incredibly hard. I had lost the passion I had when I was younger, and it terrified me. I had gone through this entire process, and what if I had made a mistake? Maybe I should have trained to become a teacher, or a solicitor, or a doctor. These thoughts are not uncommon for any adult. Everyone has a moment where they’re stuck with the sudden realisation that they’re not content with their career choice or that they’re not being pushed hard enough. They’ve lost their initial ambition, or even something as simple as just realising they’re not working for the right brand or company. In some cases, people have been made redundant. It’s in these moments that we must reflect on what we really want, and how to get there. This is an individual

experience and depends on how much we earn, how flexible we are in terms of ability to career changes, and how much support we have from loved ones. The majority of people can’t move jobs just like that. There are a lot of parameters to consider. But it’s something we can turn into an idea, and once that’s there, we can start to work towards it. REBUILD YOU The first step is to consider where our strengths lie, what our talents are, and how can we build them into a potential future career. Then, it’s about finding the right place, and even though that can take a lot of time, it’s important to be certain before you commit. If you cannot move careers for whatever reason just yet, it’s about trying to rebuild the YOU that works there. Acknowledge that you won’t be there forever and that chances will come forward eventually. Try different methods of working, to see if there are ways better suited to your work ethic. Think of it as an experience, something that will prepare you for other positions in your industry. Take a deep breath, try not to let yourself be disheartened, and focus on what you truly love.

However, a good way to ride this wave of change is by doing your research and seeing what is out there and that best suits your fashion agenda. It does not have to be cause for apprehension. Your nearest high street will most likely hold a couple of charity shops where you can invest in recycled clothing. Additionally, if you want a quicker solution, there are ethical online stores. Websites like Made Trade and Azura Bay retail large selections of eco-friendly clothing and shoes. All you have to do is intertwine that with your personal style and you are set. If you're unsure what your personal style is, start at the very beginning. Think of the colours you like, what suits your skin tone, what falls flatteringly on the body, and what makes you feel confident. Soon enough, you’ll have your perfect capsule wardrobe for every possible event. Change is something that a lot of people find daunting. But it is inevitable in every aspect of life, and for the most part, it can be a positive redirection. Learning ways to get through it is just as important as re-establishing yourself on the other side. Feeling overwhelmed and nervous are normal reactions to adaptation. It’s how we rebuild ourselves around those emotions that define our success. To read more of Ruth’s work, you can follow her on Instagram @thewriterruth.

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LONDON RUNWAY

AYNIE AND LA RANDO Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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LONDON RUNWAY

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LONDON RUNWAY

HOW TO STYLE YOUR OWN HAIR FOR A PHOTOSHOOT In the post-lockdown world, many teams are still opting to reduce the number of people on set as much as possible. Rhiannon D’Averc shares how models can style their own hair in emergencies! When you’re heading for a photoshoot without a hair stylist booked in, what can you do? It’s important to figure out how to style your own hair, whether you’re having a one-off portrait session or you are working as a model. Not only is it a great skill to have when you know a hair stylist isn’t involved, but it might also save the day if your booked hair stylist doesn’t turn up! Having said that, it’s obviously difficult to get salon-ready hair if you’re not a trained professional yourself. So, what can you do to fake it? Here are a few tips to help you to get it right.

1. Ask the photographer If you’re a model who has been booked for a particular purpose, your photographer probably has a certain style that they want you to follow. They are likely to have a moodboard or at least some idea of the style they want, so ask them. If you’re sitting for a portrait session to build your own portfolio it’s more down to your personal choice. But you don’t have to decide on your own – your photographer can always help!

2. Look at your portfolio If you’re a model who has been cast for a role, then you should probably look as similar to the majority of your portfolio images as possible, as this is what the casting decision has been based on. In other words, if all your portfolio images show you with long, red hair flowing over your shoulders, now’s probably not the time to reach for that bottle dye and try an updo. Again, if in doubt, ask the photographer.

3. Learn a simple, unfussy look In most cases, wearing your hair down and simply straightening it or curling it will work wonders. It doesn’t take a lot of effort or time to do. For models who prefer to wear wigs or weaves, something simple again will work – for example, you could bring a straight wig and one in a more natural curly/afro style to provide options. If you own them and you have the space to carry

them, you might as well! Bring a few bobby pins with you and you instantly have the ability to transform the look into something more complex or exciting with just a few adjustments.

4. Head for YouTube Here you will find lots of tutorials on how to do different hairstyles, such as more complex updos or period appropriate looks which might be suited to your photoshoot. You can often find tips on Pinterest as well. Make sure that the style fits the photoshoot or your hard work will be undone! And, this should go without saying, but ALWAYS practice before the day. As we all know from experience by now, following a YouTube or Pinterest tutorial can often lead to an epic fail, as these experts make it look so easy – but it isn’t! You might need to try a few different tutorials before you get your head around some of the more complex styles

Images via Canva

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And, again, don’t waste your time – make sure to check with the shoot team first that what you’ve got in mind will work. Why spend 15 hours learning how to do victory rolls only to find out that your photoshoot actually requires a flapper style? Well, except that those victory rolls could come in handy at a different shoot, of course!

5. When you have your hair cut, consider the styling If you have layers or bangs cut in, it’s a lot easier to style your hair in a specific way – for example, to create flowing Hollywood-style waves. But having it cut a certain way can also make it more difficult to try other styles. If you leave the natural shape of your hair untouched and simply cut in a straight line at the bottom to remove split ends, you have more of a blank slate. This isn’t to say that everyone should go the blank slate route – just know what your own hair looks and feels like and how that makes it work in certain ways. The more practice you get in of different styles, the better. Consider this your model homework to get you ready for those moments in front of the camera – when you’re going out with friends, try a new style just to see what works and what doesn’t!

6. Bring a mirror and styling products with you to the photoshoot If the journey messes up part of your hairstyle, you can redo it and keep it looking as good as it did when you left home. You can also redo anything that doesn’t work for the look if there’s been any miscommunication about the intended style. It’s much better to carry everything with you and not need to use it, than to be unprepared. Imagine if the shoot can’t go ahead because your hair doesn’t fit the brief – you definitely don’t want that to happen! On a related note, make sure you know which products work with your hair and which don’t. Everyone’s hair is different. Whether you need coconut oil or frizz-free spray, dry shampoo or styling gel – research products, find out what works to fix any hair mishaps you might have, and always keep them on hand. Keep your hair in great condition in general and it will have your back in return.

7. Protect your look If it’s very intricate, you could wear a headscarf over your hair while traveling to protect it from wind and rain! There are lots of cute ways to tie a headscarf that will keep you looking chic as you make your way to the shoot. Or, you could simply plan to arrive earlier and style your hair from scratch whilst on set.

8. If wearing your hair down, bring a hair tie Being able to quickly scoop your hair into a ponytail will give you an extra look to try on set! Along with bobby pins, hair ties will always be super useful for switching things up quickly. This goes for models who wear wigs and weaves too! I can already off the top of my head name several occasions when a model with long, straight hair had to tie it back because all those beautiful locks were covering up some intricate details on the front of the clothes, which left the designer unhappy. Don’t be caught out!

Hair and Photography: JB Mazella via @mazellaandpartners Model: @L__Rowley

These tips should help you to keep your hair under control on set, and give you a new talent to bring to the table. If you’re really serious about modelling, it might be worth taking the time to learn hair styling to at least an intermediate level. It means you have an extra skill to bring to each job, getting you bonus points in tricky situations and potentially increasing your value in the eyes of your clients. For more tips about photography and modelling, follow Rhiannon on Twitter @rhiannondaverc

Image via Canva

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: AMALIA Name: Amalia Age: 22 Location: London Agency: Select London, Elite Chile, Uniko Barcelona and Mouna Amsterdam How long have you been modelling for? I got my first modelling job when I was 11! From that I continued to do more teen work such as catalogues and commercials, but at 16 I signed with a bigger agency in London Where are you from originally?

Born in Chile but my mum is Bolivian and my dad is English. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I love skateboarding and have skated since I was 14 What would surprise people to know about you? I’m 163cm What are your modelling ambitions? I hope to book more international campaigns and hopefully allow more petite models to stand out more!

Photography by Shota Kamei @shotakamei

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: ANNA Name: Matyukha Anna Age: 12 Location: Russia, Krasnodar Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I studied at a modeling school for three years. I have been working as a model for four years now. Where are you from originally? I was born in Krasnodar. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I sing in a vocal group and dance in a dance studio. I perform at concert venues in the city. I have awards for

participating in dance and vocal competitions. I starred in dance studio videos, was the host of fashion shows in Krasnodar, participated in many shows in Krasnodar and Moscow. What would surprise people to know about you? I am the winner of the beauty contest in 2019 and in 2021 in Krasnodar. I am an ambassador of a shopping and entertainment centre, as well as several magazines I have many publications in foreign journals. What are your modelling ambitions? I dream of becoming a world-famous model

Makeup Artist: Мария Богатырева @bogmar_makeup Photographers: Kristina @ph__kristy; Рамин @rgphotostudio; Ирина Волкова @photo.volkova Model: Anna Matyukha @matiukha.anna

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AUTHENTIC Molly McHale

I began with a camera and an idea, the capacity to create something beautiful from a simple vision, and was inspired by many local Brisbane artists and their perspectives on photography as an art form. My body of work encourages people to see beauty in everyday people; the subjects of my shoots are individuals like you and me, people you might pass on the street. Some are newcomers to modelling, while others are friends I've made along the way. My art explores each individual's unique personality through a lens and portrays their current style and fashion in an interesting and creative manner. My photography is intended to bring a person's story and individuality to life. As an artist, I make great effort to get to know my models and their stories, as well as bringing them to life in a unique and compelling way. This body of work represents the progression of my photography over the last year, demonstrating the skills I've picked up both in and out of the studio.

Models: Abbie Claire @abbiee_clairee; Chantelle Jessica @bychantellejessica; Frances Wilson @frances_wil; Michael Alenaddaf @mikeyghq; James Barnard @james.j.barnard Assistant: Eliza Mullins @elizamullinsphotography Stylist: Jane Jordan @janejordanstyling Makeup Artist: Kirsty Whitbread @kirstywhit_mua Photographer: Molly McHale @mozzymch Studio space: The Photo Studio Australia @thephotostudioaustralia

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PORTFOLIO

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PIECE

ROKER LONDON RUNWAY

Photography by MJ Mrityunjoy @the_mj_studio

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LABRUM LONDON

LONDON RUNWAY

Photography by MJ Mrityunjoy @the_mj_studio

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VIN + OMI Photography by Ian Clark @photo.by.ian

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LONDON RUNWAY

HIP CURVE

Photography by MJ Mrityunjoy @the_mj_studio

‘PARIS THROUGH A TUNNEL’ EXHIBITION Two notable artists offered the backdrop for the unofficial Louis Vuitton afterparty, in the heart of Le Marais: Mister Fifou and Ciesay. This creative duo, publishing under the collective pseudonym FACES+PLACES, share a mission “to immortalise the contemporary hip hop scene without relying on oldschool hip hop nostalgia”. The late Virgil Abloh was working on the debut collection for his second independent fashion project - OffWhite - around the same time Ciesay emerged from the London streetstyle scene in 2016. Following the launch, Virgil shared that his objective with Off-White was to fill a gap in the luxury industry: “I was trying to communicate that this generation wants to play a part in fashion. Off-White behaves like a luxury brand, but the spirit and everything underneath it relates to issues of race, youth culture, and globalization."

His love for sportswear was rooted in its broadly inclusive spectrum, an antidote to fashion’s innate tendency to exclude. By injecting street style sensibilities into luxury fashion, first at Off-White and then at Louis Vuitton, Virgil enabled millions of young street style enthusiasts to find employment in the fashion industry, including FACES+PLACES. At the same time Virgil was building up Off-White, the photographer duo was sneaking into events and capturing some of hip hop’s most influential personas, including Kanye West, Skepta, and A$AP Rocky within the first year. The majority of Virgil’s projects, whether for Louis Vuitton or Off-White, invited in artists who traditionally would have been considered too ‘alternative’ to be affiliated with a luxury fashion label. He let his dreams run wild and opened the luxury gold-crusted

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doors for countless people. A model had a breakdown backstage while sharing the story of how Virgil saw him on social media and saved him from the life of violence and gangs in Senegal. Other artists, dancers, and musicians, who never dreamed of listing Louis Vuitton on their CV until Virgil came along and flipped the switch on the norms, were visibly thankful and emotional as well. While Ciesey and Soulz were following members of A$AP and Skepta's entourages, Virgil was sending them Off-White merchandise to boost brand awareness. You can spot a few OffWhite pieces in the photos hanging in the gallery, including the one of Virgil from 2017. Having strolled around the gallery, the intimacy of the portraits suggested their well-acquaintance with all the models.

Although some photographs came across more staged than others in terms of composition, none of the exhibited works felt impersonal, all conveying the same laid-back and candid mood. Ciesey built enough rapport with all these A-listers and morphed into an insider looking out rather than a young fan, an outsider, glimpsing in. You can see the parallel to Virgil’s journey at Louis Vuitton where, in 2020, one of his collections was inspired by the ‘Purist vs. Tourist’ texts, elaborating on what it truly meant to be an insider. Whether it was the arrivals of breakout British rap phenomenons Headie One and Central Cee, or the open bar courtesy of Moët and Hennessy, the party crowd grew louder as the night progressed. The Hennessy beverages held the attention of the attendees far more than the exhibited chef d’oeuvres. I caught a glimpse of some guests amidst heated negotiations with the overwhelmed bartenders, demanding a cognac refill in a used glass (COVID-19 be damned). One corner of the gallery was converted into a stockpile of sky-blue pillows with a ‘Louis Vuitton SS22’ inscription, offered as souvenirs to the invitees. I observed one man dressed in black guarding the coveted corner and could only assume that he was a bodyguard turned impromptu ‘pillow guard’ for the night. Ciesey himself was making rounds, hopping from the DJ set to the gatherings of new arrivals by the colossal centrepiece. If Virgil was still with us, I would be looking for him in the DJ corner as DJing after the runway presentations was his very own fashion week tradition. The turntable was nestled in the back of the room and the soundtrack alternated between French and English rap.

At the heart of the gallery, a twometer-tall head stood bearing a balaclava made out of 3D printed chunky mesh. The mouth and eye holes of the mask housed digital screens playing a series of clips that ranged from flames and a spinning 3D-logo of Ciesey to some more abstract visuals. All in all, it was a fascinating sculpture that captured the zeitgeist perfectly. A fair share of the guests were also spotted wearing similar black balaclavas. The giant head placed in the centre of the space served as a divider between the photographs by Ciesey and the works by his French counterpart Mister Fifou. I spent around three hours at the event and still could not decipher Mister Fifou’s identity; although, I am pretty confident he was lurking in the shadows. Digging online did not reveal much other than one short video clip from his personal Instagram where he himself describes this project as “a true cultural momentum, allowing for an authentic link between fashion, hip hop, and photography”. Responsible for the album art for some of the biggest names in French hip-hop, what is it that unites the vision of Ciesey and Mister Fifou, besides their shared love for hip-hop, photography, and fashion? The power of photography is the bridge between these three verticals, and the ‘To Paris Through A Tunnel’ exhibition is the lovechild born out of a shared desire to immortalise hip hop icons through the lenses of two very talented rap history majors.

You can read more of Anna’s work on Instagram by following @anastawrites.

All Images via Anna Schultz.

ROBYN LYNCH LONDON RUNWAY

Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

LONDON RUNWAY

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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc

Not Just Pajama Resort Alto Pajama Set Oat White £299

Cinta the Label The Rosie Cardigan £95

ESSEN The City Sandal in Black £229

AGGI Isabella Natural Blazer £310

Susana Madrid PIÑA Sneaker in Neutrals £330

AGGI Madison Rich Black Pants £185

U.MI-1 Scarf Shirt Black £200

ASOS Design Super Skinny Velvet Sequin Suit Jacket £100

Public Desire Man Kash Lace up Buckle Hiker Boots in Black £29.95

Tokkou Made in Japan Men's Sweatpants £217

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NEW BUSINESS MOON THEA

Name of company: Moon Thea Type of business: currently is a self-manufactured fashion brand Location: Surabaya city, Indonesia

What are your company values? Moon Thea is against fast fashion and mass production! I'm currently only accepting orders by request. My wish is that I can develop Moon Thea to use mainly sustainable materials.

How long has the company been running? I started Moon Thea in the middle of June 2021, so it has only been around nine months, more or less. Where did the idea come from? Moon Thea was made because one of my class in college demanded the students to start a small fashion brand. Thus, Moon Thea was born. The brand name consists of two words; "Moon" and "Thea". Wulan is my middle name, which literally means Moon in my father tongue. Thea has a lot of meanings, but one of the meanings is that it's an ancient planet which collided with early Earth and the pioneer of the moon. In conclusion, "Moon Thea" is just some kind of a wish that the brand could make something wonderful in present time and in the future.

Currently, how many people work for the business? Currently, there's only myself. What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? You just need to learn how to find the perfect target market for your business. You wouldn't be successful in a blink of an eye, so just be patient and work at your own pace. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years? My vision for Moon Thea is for it to be a fully ecofriendly and small slow-fashion brand with feminine and whimsical designs. Not only that, I wish for Moon Thea to be able to give positive impacts.

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NEW BUSINESS IBEAM FASHION

Name of company: IBEAM Type of business: Luxury sustainable clothing brand Location: London How long has the company been running? We launched collection 1 this year but have been operating for about 2 years now. Where did the idea come from? We have always had a strong desire to create something together that would be of value to the world. During the first lockdown, we were talking about how bad it feels when we [invest into fast fashion] and how much we wanted to shop more with ethical fashion brands but were never able to find our style or preferred fit. So, we decided that we should make our own clothes that both fulfils our styling needs and aligns with our own ethical values. With IBEAM’s childhood love for creative fashion design and Leanne’s desire to build an empire and a shared purpose to alleviate the suffering of others, it was the perfect idea! Currently, how many people work for the business? 5

What are your company values? Our values are centered around the 3 P’s; people, planet, and purpose. We are dedicated to contributing towards a cultural shift that sees consumers exercising their buying power in the places that make the world a better, kinder place to the people, earth and animals. We plan to better the lives of people wherever we find the opportunity to do so, which, right now, means through our supply chain, seeking to build long-term and quality relationships with all people involved. As we grow, we want the world around us to grow too. What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? Know your “why” for starting a business. It must be strong enough for you to endure the process and keep your fire alight. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years? In 5 years, we hope to be fully engaged in our social enterprise projects that will focus on reinvesting into our supply chains and giving back to the community, building a stable foundation that will empower and allow the community to thrive from.

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PUT A KROWN We saw that you’ve just been signed. Congratulations! Tell us about your new album. Yes thank you, “WE R VERIFIED” is the new label. They will handle my distribution and management. Now a lot of my fans was shocked as I just signed a deal with “UNITED MASTERS” where I can release when I like and what I like and keep all my masters. So to see me sign was a shock to them, sooooo many messages, but I’d like to say: reasonings behind it is I’m a brand, a business. and to push myself to the maximum potential I need to be in more places to be heard and seen more and that means taking the help if beneficial. The album is done, we have 3 singles coming before that though. It’s about to be SLIME SEASON. What shows did you go to see at LFW February 2022? I went to two Lone Design Club shows and party, Dumebi brand show, Fabric floor open studio. How has making music changed for you since the beginning of the pandemic? Now I just love recording on my own, like most of my hits from SLATTY to PLEASE and SOLID I done with just me present. I always have people around but couldn’t so found myself going harder without any doubt. Nobody to say it’s not lit, I learnt to trust my instincts on my own music more. This is an art form for me so I take this so seriously. What sustainable brands do you wear/like? I think Valentino, Versace, Taxfree, Polo, 1hundredclub, Crooked Tongues and even Zara men hold good sustainable clothing. I’m trying to support independent brands more but a lot of brands be cheap and cloudy. Where do you get your inspiration from for your lyrics? I’m a prince amongst men but I came from the hood, so all of my lyrics whether hood, girls, money, sex to mental issues, love, being different and making a whole new UK sound etc, are based on and all things I feel and been through. My life has

ON IT

always been a movie and circus, I just document it. A lot of songs based on relationships are wishful thinking though trying to speak in existence and that. I have 320 unreleased songs, I record 3 songs a day In my home studio, I have over 5000 pictures so my legacy gonna be unforgettable. Remember me as a legend and king. Me and itsyungonthatrack started this 808 hip hop in UK 2015, a mix between our UK and USA heritage, If it weren’t for us there would be no nsg, no cbiz , especially no dblock Europe. I'm younger and actually a creative so it’s minor and people starting to give my flowers. Like I did a song/video when back from USA 2016 called “wiping ya nose” on grmdaily people in UK didn’t overstand and thought hmmm is Bate crazy. So much grm said their channels audience doesn’t like the sound. Now forward 5 years later, EVERYONE WANNA BE ME. Do you feel pressure to keep up a public image on social media? No pressure. I naturally am lit. Music or not, fashion or not, before all of this in real life I been that slime, that guy. Now I make hella money from two things I love so no pressure, I’m too blessed to stress. Do you have any upcoming news/announcements you wish to share? MY ALBUM “PUT A KROWN ON IT” is out now all digital platforms. I got loads of branding deals secured for this year. Fashion week we going different in summer. I got my own brand YOU AINT SLIME coming. Just keep focused on me 2022 I will be in UK and USA a lot. Add my gram and TikTok @batenateh Snapchat @batenateadl Twitter @batenatehysl Shout out young stoner life records and The Take over inc that’s my USA natives who done so much for me in terms of behind the scene works and playlists. Shout out to minko and we are verified. Shout out my mums and my daughter this for you x.

BATE NATE H

Love you London Runway

JADED LIFE COLLECTIVE Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

Designers (in no particular order): @casimirow30 @sherenemelinda

@sibamuse @youmeewee @vzperfection

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@sortaarhus @bohemiannova_couture

LONDON RUNWAY

BOOK CLUB

Of Women and Salt By Gabriela Garcia

This week Hannah Whittaker is looking at the historical fiction novel Of Women and Salt by American writer, poet, and journalist, Gabriela Garcia.

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I truly think that certain works of historical fiction are hugely underrated by readers. Although being fictional, these historical novels will often draw upon major events from the past when developing their stories. History is a powerful thing, something that I believe we all need to be reminded of to see how far we have come and how far we still have to go in terms of numerous issues. I was always hesitant towards historical fiction because of the association that I had with it as a subject at school, one of which was definitely not my strongest. But, by delving into the world of historical books, fictional and non-fictional, I have grown to love reading and learning about history. Of Women and Salt has definitely added to this love of mine as, weeks after I finished the book, I still find myself thinking about it every day and recommending it to everyone I possibly can. This debut novel from Garcia follows the lives of mothers and daughters through six generations. As you turn onto the first page of the book, you are provided with a very handy family tree. This tree proved to be extremely helpful throughout the whole book as, when I got so lost in the mothers and daughters’ relationships, I could quickly flick to the front to regain my orientation of the family. It is such a small addition to the book but, in my opinion, a vital one.

novel, the overarching message supports the determination and courage of Cuban women who are negotiating how to survive in this world, whether it was in 1866 or 2016. There were so many elements of this book that I admired, but arguably, my favourite was the range of themes that Garcia managed to effectively cover in just 200 pages. From motherhood and family through to immigration and addiction, Garcia has the incredible talent of giving each issue enough time and care to make them all impactful. The story of the mother and daughter, Gloria and Anna, who are separated in the process of being deported from America was especially profound and highlighted the humane issues of the American deportation and immigration systems. We are drawn into the world of women who face the fear of displacement every day and those like Anna who are suddenly forced to live independently in a foreign country

We are taken through the lives of Maria Isabel, a cigar factory worker living in Cuba where there is political upheaval, right through to Jeanette, who in 2016 is fighting for her life against drug addiction. Maria Isabel is only presented to the reader at the beginning of the book, and it soon becomes clear that this novel is one of understanding one’s family history. Each woman must face their own hardships whilst drawing on their heritage and cultural history to save themselves. Within the immense number of themes and issues that Garcia draws on in her

do n

at such young ages. Gloria and Anna’s stories subtly link into the life of Carmen and her daughter, Jeanette, who suffers from addiction. The lives of these two families appear to be starkly different, but a few generations ago, Jeanette’s ancestors were facing the same problem of fleeing their country in hope of a better life. After Jeanette’s drug addiction and dependence on an emotionally and physically abusive partner reaches its peak, she realises her issues are deep-rooted in her lack of understanding of her mother’s life and complacency with her own abusive husband. Jeanette ultimately has to partake in her own journey through her family’s history in order to save herself. The different narratives from each woman gives the reader a different perspective of similar situations through a range of tones, tenses, times, and powerful voices.

LONDON RUNWAY

The violent and tumultuous nature of these women’s lives do make this book fairly difficult to read. However, these are ongoing topics which need discussion and need to be written about. Within the 12 intertwining storylines Garcia does not hold back when describing the pain and suffering that these Cuban women have faced, but her focus on their optimism, selfdiscovery, and perseverance means that one is able to have a more involved and positive reading experience of such difficult topics. The relationship between Jeanette and her mother Carmen is probably given the most attention and is one that made me experience an extensive range of emotions while reading. But, if I was to criticise one thing about this book, it would be the minimal attention given to Gloria and Anna’s story, which I found myself wanting to hear more of. These two families’ lives intertwine early on in the book as Gloria is taken by immigration officers while her daughter Anna is at school. Jeanette, being her neighbour, looks after Anna after she’s seen her mother being taken away, but ultimately, Carmen talks Jeanette into calling the police to take Anna.

I think this particular moment kickstarted Jeanette’s progression towards sobriety and discovering her heritage. Jeanette and Anna’s brief encounter comes full circle at the end of the novel when Anna returns to America after her mother’s death in search of this woman who she thought had tried to save her from deportation. Anna’s return to America highlights the way that motherhood is represented throughout the novel: that even those mothers that faced tragedy and trauma are able to find the strength to help their daughters or someone else’s. I found Gloria and Anna’s story so profound because they were facing these immigration struggles more currently than the other characters, and I found myself wanting a better outcome for Anna’s character. This is an absolutely beautiful novel that covers so much tragedy whilst simultaneously being a delight to read and I can’t recommend it enough!

You can read more of Hannah’s work by following @hw.reads on Instagram.

Images via Hannah Whittaker and on Instagram @gabimgarcia

Page Turner: Complexity: Storyline:

COP26 GALA Clothing by Atelier TAMMAM @houseoftamman Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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MARVIN NONIS Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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SOFIA TUREKOVA

Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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Lucy Brown speaks to up-and-coming London based designer Olli Hull who is blurring the lines between art and fashion by upcycling garments with graffiti- style designs.

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LB: How did you get into designing; is it something you’ve always wanted to do? OH: I kind of went into fashion through a strange route. I studied illustration and worked as a hairdresser in London for two years, and we used to do a lot of industry competitions and fashion shows. My boss put me forward for this industry competition, a hair competition called L’Oréal Colour Trophy. You had to present a model and an outfit concept, and she was like, “why don’t you paint her clothes?” because she knew that I did illustration. So, I did and just really fell in love with it. I started buying vintage and secondhand clothes from charity shops in my spare time and painting and upcycling them. I just fell in love with the process of doing that. I eventually made the decision to leave hairdressing to do it full time and just grew from there really. I was teaching myself by deconstructing garments, how to then create garments, and make them into something new. LB: Would you say that your work blurs the lines between art and fashion? OH: Yes, I guess because I never had a formal fashion design background, part of me felt like I could never call myself a fashion designer. I think because the art and the concept always came first and the clothes were kind of a vehicle for my artwork and my message. So, it wasn’t just art and it wasn’t just fashion. It was kind of a mix and blending of both. LB: Sustainability plays a huge role in your designs. Why is it so important for designers to think sustainably? OH: I think we’re at a point now where there’s just no other option. Moving forward, we just can’t keep making new stuff, and I think that the more damage we start seeing, the more everything is going to have to change. Everyone is going to have to adopt new work practices. I think sustainability is just the start of us all moving in a new direction. How can we all stay on this planet and still enjoy art and fashion but in a way that isn’t going to damage the planet? I also think fashion can inspire culture and change.

LB: Definitely! You also mentioned earlier that you look in charity shops to find garments to upcycle. What is it that makes you see potential in certain items? OH: The first thing I look for is the quality of a garment, so something that’s had a life but stood the test of time. A lot of the stuff in charity shops have been worn by an owner before, but because the quality is that good, it can still be worked with. I also look for things that are quite plain with blank space as it gives me so much space to do something with. I can cut something, re-shape it, paint it, or change the colour of it. When something already has a lot going on. I kind of don’t know what I can do with it. I like having a blank canvas. LB: What would you say your personal favourite design has been so far? OH: I think the oversized t-shirt dress from my recent collection. It says ‘normal’ across the front and it is a body where you can see the muscles showing underneath. I think that’s a direction I want to start moving into, the body drawn on top of the clothing and relating the body and the clothing together. LB: When it comes to your other pieces, where do you find the quotes you put on them? OH: I just constantly keep a journal, so I’m constantly writing down little ideas and thoughts that come to me. I’ll pull imagery and drawings from my sketchbooks. I definitely use them in a therapeutic kind of way to process the inner chatter and then use it on the clothes. LB: Who are the designers you look to for inspiration? OH: I’ve always loved Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. My inspirations change all the time. At the moment, I’m really into Derek Jarman, who was a gay filmmaker. I recently watched a film screening of his called The Garden. It was all about the strength of nature, and I think that’s a really important concept right now and how we need to reconnect with it a little bit more.

LB: What you do is so unique, particularly the graffitied wedding dresses. Where did you find the inspiration for that? OH: During the first lockdown, I was looking on Depop and eBay, where I get a lot of pieces to upcycle from, and I found a wedding dress on eBay and was like, “that would be pretty cool to paint,” because it’s just a big white canvas. There is so much space to work with. I just became obsessed with buying wedding dresses, and I think there is something about wedding dresses. From a sustainable point of view, people pay all this money on a dress that is worn once and then left in an attic for years, never to be worn again. There is also this thing about wedding dresses representing heteronormative traditional ideas about relationships. As a queer person, to take these dresses and graffiti them, how graffiti artists take ownership over the streets, I wanted to do that with the wedding dresses to make a comment about them not just being for heterosexuals; they’re for everybody. LB: So, what’s next for you? OH: I want to start creating things that have a bit more of a performance feel, working more with fashion film and performers. I’d also like to work with more upcycled denim for my September collection.

"As a queer person, to take these dresses and graffiti them, how graffiti artists take ownership over the streets, I wanted to do that with the wedding dresses to make a comment about them not just being for heterosexuals; they’re for everybody." For more of Lucy’s work follow @lucyzbrown on Instagram. All Images via Olli Hull

LONDON RUNWAY

HOUSE of iKONS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

Agnes Krivanics

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Ana de sa

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Postcode Fashion

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Shaleena Nowbuth

Taylor PAGE 103

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With the start of spring, here are some sustainable, ethical jewellery made from recycled materials to represent the renewal and rebirth of the new season!

Aries March 21 - April 20

Red Ti Amo Earrings - Soru Jewellery As one of the more romantic signs, these earrings will revitalise the passion within Aries. This fire sign will love the deep red agate stone that offers protection and strength against stress and bad dreams.

Taurus April 21 - May 21

Stackable Rings - Civerso These solid 14kt gold with cubic zirconia rings can be easily stacked with other rings for versatility. Tauruses will love the simple yet eye-catching piece.

Gemini May 22- June 21

Tiger Eye Stud Earrings - Pippa Small Jewellery Geminis will radiate with these 18kt gold vermeil studs. With their birthstone Tigers eye front and centre, these studs bring healing, protection, and luck to the wearer.

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Cancer June 22- July 22 CaYala x Durat 24k Gold Plated Disc Drop Hoop Earrings - Yala Jewellery A collaboration between Yala Jewellery and Durat, these limited edition earrings utilise post-industrial plastic waste using renewable energy. Due to the recycled nature, Cancers will appreciate the uniqueness of each sustainable piece.

Leo July 23- August 21 Ulumbi Sunburst Earring Hoops - Yala Jewellery Made from recycled brass, new life is given to these statement earrings by Kenyan artisans outside of Nairobi. Leos will shine in these with the sun design accentuating their blinding auras!

Virgo August 22- September 23 Angel Wings Stud - Tada & Toy Simple yet symbolic, this stud earring can be worn across 2 piercings and are connected by a chain. Virgos are often depicted with wings similar to that of angels.

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Libra September 24- October 23

Full Bloom Necklace - Natalie Perry Jewellery This feminine addition will complement a Libra and their romantic sides. The bloomed floral motif perfectly encapsulates the extroverted and compassionate nature of these signs..

Scorpio

October 24- November 22

Tiva Woven Bracelet - Azuni With a classic Navajo diamond weave, each of these adjustable, artisan hand-stitched bracelets plants five trees! Additionally, the Japanese glass Miyuki beads combine a modern feel with traditional indigenous craftsmanship.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Fairtrade Sterling Silver Nature Inspired Pendant - HK Jewellery Dainty and minimal, Sagittariuses, nature lovers and world explorers, will appreciate the leaf design and fair trade sterling silver.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Luna Gemstone Bracelet - Azuni With five trees planted for this bracelet as well, the garnet stone option definitely resonates with Capricorns as it’s their birthstone. Perfect for everyday layering, it adds a bit of sophistication and elegance to any of their ensembles.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19

Metallic Sphere Hoops - Mejuri 80% of their gold is from recycled sources with the remaining 20% from responsible sources for all of their pieces, these hoops included. These statement pieces are just what Aquarians need when fashionably entering the new season!

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Reejah Necklace - Pippa Small Jewellery Handmade in Kabul, Afghanistan, features the birthstone of these dreamy signs in addition to Rose Quartz. With a small moon pendant clasp and the 18kt gold chain, this necklace will be stunning on Pisceans.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via their respective retailers

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LONDON RUNWAY

CHABS UK RUNWAY Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

Beads 4 Mama

Luisa Atti Creations

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DGV Styles

Go Dream Wear

Ethnicroyals

Anthi G

Athea Couture

Ronnie J Kids Collection

WOMEN WEIGHTLIFTING IN LATER LIFE Mandy takes you on her journey of rediscovering her passions later in life.

It wasn’t until I started stringing some words together on the subject of weightlifting in later life that I realised how complex my reasons are for such an activity; it’s been quite a journey! In my thirties, a full-time Mum to twins and supporting my husband's business, I’d tried working out at my local gym, but the children howled every time I placed them in the creche provided. My efforts descended into chaos, but I liked how my body responded to short bursts of reps with heavy weights where I had to really focus on each move. It provided the headspace I was craving. I tried the gym again in my forties. I improved quickly, directly in proportion to the number of reps/weights handled/visits made, but we travelled a lot and sticking to anything was tricky. So, I gave up.

Fast forward another ten years and my 50th birthday celebrations were marred by a diagnosis of endometrial and ovarian cancer, low grade thankfully. Next came a hysterectomy and chemo. Frankly, by the time I came out the other end, I was as weak as a kitten and bitterly resented it, but, naturally, I was very glad to be alive. Researching my symptoms showed general fatigue and muscle weakness were common for many people undergoing similar treatments and I also learnt that working out with weights was recommended in many instances to aid recovery. With an aching body, lifting weights wasn’t the most appealing option, but by then, Kori, one of our twins,was a qualified personal trainer so she and I

decided to give it a go together once my hair had grown back. Paradoxically, at the same time I started experimenting with an idea around constructible chocolate and confectionery, as I’m a trained chef, making product that encouraged people to come together to make happy memories. It was my way of giving back, and it worked a treat. Remember above, where I said I liked how my body responded to short bursts of reps with heavy weights, the gym gave me headspace, and the improvement was incremental? These things became important in helping me build my confidence, to block out the fear and insecurity I sometimes felt during recovery.

Images via Mandy Gagnerie

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The gym I train at is inclusive. It started out as a sports performance and rehabilitation clinic, and now, people of all ages and abilities attend. So, is age an issue? Absolutely not, we rock! Fast forward another ten years to my 60th birthday and we had set a goal for my being able to deadlift 60kg. Please understand that when I first started recovery, I couldn’t lift a 20kg bar, never mind put weights on it! When my birthday arrived, I smashed my goal by deadlifting 65kg (I have recently gone on to do 70kg). We had a window of opportunity during Covid to have a party that friends and our twins could attend, and we were overjoyed. The images included are some of my stock taken on mobile devices in the gym to help me chart my progress. Apart from the one where I’m doing a cable pull with colourful leis around my neck, presented on my birthday, you won’t find me posing and showing off. I’ll never be a supermodel and that was never the point. Instead, the deadlift, bench press, overhead lift, and lat pull down in particular will show how my muscles have gained definition, an indication of good development and strength. Women can be incredibly strong. Due to our physiology, the female body, compared to men, produces much less testosterone, which means adding resistance training to a weekly exercise can increase lean muscle mass but won’t add pounds of “bulky” muscle.

Images via Mandy Gagnerie.

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Strength training can cause women to produce more somatotropin, otherwise known as human growth hormone. Considering this growth hormone helps metabolise fat and is an important part of reducing the

effects of ageing, this is not a bad thing. Numerous studies have shown that strength training with weights can relieve stress.

My body releases endorphins, the feelgood hormones produced during and after physical exertion, and this was particularly noticeable when the aches and pains, a side effect from chemo, began to diminish. My confidence and general ability in all spheres of life have remained high. Instead of always being in control with a rigid plan, I think I’ve deliberately tried not to have any preconceived notions of what my limits might be. I concentrate on just enjoying the journey and building on each little success, which influences other areas of my life too. To conclude, I hope you find this overview of a journey to weightlifting in later life, well... “uplifting”, and maybe pass this article around to encourage others to give it a go.

Kindest Always, Mandy Gagnerie

You can see more of Mandy's work by Googling bonbonco® Brilliantly bonkers, British and delicious, constructible chocolate and confectionery. Images via Mandy Gagnerie

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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

“Liberty”

– Amber Johnson, Publishing Assisstant

“THERE’S A BOOKSHOP AROUND THE CORNER FROM [SOHO], IT’S REALLY OLD SCHOOL… I CAN’T REMEMBER WHAT IT’S CALLED. I’LL GO WITH ROKIT, BECAUSE I ALSO LOVE IT. ROKIT COVENT GARDEN – I HAVE SO MANY CLOTHES FROM THERE” – Benedict Cork, singer-songwriter

‘I’M DEFINITELY MORE OF A LIBERTY GIRL. I JUST LOVE THE EXPERIENCE OF WANDERING AROUND THAT BEAUTIFUL OLD BUILDING. IT’S AN INSTITUTION – IT’S VERY REPRESENTATIVE OF THAT QUIRKY BRITISH STYLE.’ - Erin O'Connor, Model

"Harrods is good for finding anything. And groceries" - Manolo Blahnik, designer

“I think LNCC. It’s such a cool shop. It’s such a weird, cool shop! I really liked it, I liked the experience. I hope they will take my clothes!”

“I genuinely love Liberty as well! Nothing like walking into a store and seeing something from the LFW runway right there in front of you that you can buy and take home” - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

– Sarah Regensburger, designer

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