London Runway Issue 13

NASSAH TEMHEM . 8102 LEDOM POT . ZIZALUDBA ALJAN

SMUESUM NOIHSAF . YTISREVID LEDOM . SCINAVIRK SENGA HTIW WEIVRETNI

ISSUE 13

APRIL 2018

LONDON

RUNWAY

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CONTRIBUTORS Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc Photographer: Joanna Foster - shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Lead writer: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk Lead graphic designer: Sophie Brown design@londonrunway.co.uk Lead stylist: Monica Pereira - stylist@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Mehmet Hassan, Laura Foster-Devaney Special thanks to Agnes Krivanics

Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Š 2018, London Runway and contributors

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IN THIS ISSUE Letter from the Editor

When are we ever not talking about diversity? It's one of the hottest topics right now, and with Top Model 2018 taking place last week, it's still as relevant as ever.

We put some thought into the issue of diversity in modelling, addressing whether the situation is improving or not.

our capital's catwalks across the past two weeks since Issue 12.

Whatever the case may be, the fact that we are having these conversations on such a regular basis is incredibly heartening. We see diversity all around us, so the importance of representing that diversity in fashion cannot be understated.

We've been very busy behind the scenes, working on some upgrades for you, our readers, to enjoy.

We've seen a lot of support as we continue to grow, for which we will forever be thankful - and rest assured we're saving all of your kind emails and comments in a special place.

Fashion often draws inspiration from the cultural views and ideologies of the time, and that could not be clearer in the changes that are happening on our catwalks, in online stores, and across social media.

We're also examining the way that children's clothing is having its moment in the controversy spotlight, and browsing through some of the best museum spots in London for fashion fans.

We couldn't be more excited to see where it all goes next.

First up is our new website, which you can find at - perhaps predictably - londonrunway.co.uk.

This is your new one-stop hub to read issues, purchase print copies, and check out our articles (always published after the issue is released, so grab a copy if you want to see the latest).

Meanwhile, we've been visiting private view showings as well as the aforementioned Top Model contest to bring you coverage of

This represents a big step forward in our pursuit of world domination - or perhaps just domination of our own fair isle, but we're

pretty pleased with it all the same.

The new site also means we're open to submissions, so go ahead and hop over there to read our guidelines for writers, photographers, and artists.

We're looking forward to seeing what lands in our inboxes now that the floodgates have been opened.

And as always, drop us a line via info@londonrunway.co.uk if you have a show you think we should see or a feature you think we should run.

Enjoy!

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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CONTENTS Photography Najla Abdulaziz - 4 Top Model 2018: Michaela Frankova - 12 Louise Rose Couture - 16 See-Saw Clothing - 23 Self-style - 27 Omar Mansoor - 47

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Mehmet Hassan (cover feature) - 39 Features Models Making Waves:The Models Using Social Media to Change an Industry - 9

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Interview: Agnes Krivanics - 19 Top London Museums for Fun-Filled Fashion Adventures - 37 What do Children’s T-Shirts Say About Gender Equality? - 45

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NAJLA ABDULAZIZ Saudi Arabian influencer Najla Abdulaziz became a designer this Easter. Her first clothing line, called ‘Eid’, was launched in a private show presided over by Fashions Finest.

At the same event, she also launched two new fragrances - Gold and Silver.

Najla said, “I am over the moon and very proud to be the first Saudi Arabian designer to launch in London.

This is just the beginning and I am still learning. I also want to bring out a makeup line, sportswear for men and women, handbags, nightwear and more seasonal lines.”

The strong prints and shapes of the collection had an interesting grace, from tartan dresses styled like blazers to this extravagant embroidered gown.

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MODELS MAKING WAVES THE MODELS USING SOCIAL MEDIA TO CHANGE AN INDUSTRY Rachel Parker considers diversity, and how models are using social media for powerful change.

This month, British Vogue unveiled a new cover featuring a hijab-wearing model for the first time in the magazine’s history. Captioned ‘New Frontiers’, the image displays a group of models of various races and body sizes, dressed in militarystyle uniforms of khakis and beige. The cover makes a clear statement: in an industry plagued by image issues, fashion is fighting back.

As Vogue’s editor-in-chief Edward Enninful explained, the cover was intended to signal a new era in fashion, following concerns raised about safety and diversity in the modelling industry through campaigns such as #MeToo. In his Editor’s Letter, Enninful wrote: ‘‘At the world’s great design houses, at photographic studios, at fashion weeks and in the offices of magazines such as mine at Vogue, crucial questions have been asked about working practices, safety and respect.’’

This statement echoes similar demands made by industry figures throughout the past months, which have called on photographers, editors, casting directors and agencies to implement more inclusive and ethical practices in their casting and treatment of models.

These calls for inclusivity are powerful, but they ignore a crucial piece of the puzzle when it comes to driving change— the voices of the models themselves. Over the past year, a number of models have spoken out against harmful and outdated practices, using their platforms to address the uglier side of the modelling industry: a lack of diversity, poor working conditions, sexual abuse, body-shaming and mental health issues.

So how exactly are these models speaking back to transform the world of fashion? The answer is, of course, online. The advent of social media has transformed the way we interact with fashion models. Gone are the days when a model was a voiceless face on the page; we now expect a two-way conversation. That conversation is changing an industry, allowing models to champion racial and body-shape inclusivity, call out sexual misconduct, and demand better working conditions.

The Size-Zero Debate Concerns about the wider effects of fashion's fixation on size zero are nothing new, but more recently, voices within the industry have opened up about how this promotion of a certain body image is damaging to the models themselves.

Last year, model Ulrikke Hoyer caused an outcry when she shared a post on Instagram complaining of body-shaming and poor treatment by Louis Vuitton. The model, who is a UK size 6, claimed that she was told she was 'very bloated' and should drink only water for 24 hours prior to a catwalk appearance for Louis Vuitton in April 2017. The post went viral, causing many to consider the effects of fashion’s scrutiny of young women’s bodies.

This account was not an isolated incident. Last year, campaign group The Model Alliance found multiple stories of models being instructed by their agencies to lose weight or undergo plastic surgery, with the threat of being dropped if they refused. In an industry powered by appearances, it's unsurprising that agencies have an opinion on how the models they represent should look. But, as The Model Alliance argued, these demands shouldn't compromise a model's health, safety or mental well-being.

Luckily, stories like this are beginning to have an impact.

MODELS MAKING WAVES From October 2017, French Law requires models to produce medical certificates as evidence that they are healthy for work. Meanwhile, London Fashion Week has established The Model Zone, a space for models to rest, access healthy food and drink, and speak to independent nutrition advisors in between their busy catwalk schedules.

Models and #MeToo In the wake of the Harvey Weinstein scandal and revelations of sexual harassment in multiple industries, models united at the end of last year to share stories of abuse on social media. The model and activist Cameron Russel led the call for change, posting anonymous stories on her Instagram feed to spotlight the exploitation of vulnerable young women.

The model wrote: "We need a way to begin breaking the silence while remaining protected.

We are not talking about one, five, or even twenty men. We are talking about a culture of exploitation and it must stop. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE YOUR STORY ANONYMOUSLY, DIRECT MESSAGE ME and I will post your words.

If you would like to share publicly use the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse so the industry can see the size and scope of this problem.”

She also called on advertisers and magazines to stop hiring known perpetrators of abuse, and for agencies to take greater measures to safeguard their talent. Many other models joined Russell in sharing their stories and demanding respect in the fashion industry.

Thanks to the models who have come forward with accounts of abuse and harassment, changes are being made. In February, New York Fashion Week granted models cubicles and private changing areas for the first time, amid concerns about invasive photography and a lack of privacy spurred on by #MeToo. The Diversity Movement The current drive towards inclusivity in fashion appears to be unstoppable. But as an incident in 2017 reveals, in which the black and transgender model Munroe Bergdorf was sacked by L’Oréal

after she posted a Facebook comment criticising white privilege, inclusivity means celebrating diverse opinions as well as appearances.

After the huge backlash against L’Oréal incited by Bergdorf’s posts, she was chosen by rival brand Illamasqua as the face of a campaign celebrating gender fluidity. In a statement, Illamasqua explained: “Munroe embodies diversity and individuality; she is not scared to be truly herself. But Munroe doesn’t just stop there. She speaks out about the issues that affect not just her but the rest of our generation, seeking to

MODELS MAKING WAVES improve the society we live in.”

While recent inclusive editorials at major magazines, including this month’s Vogue cover, represent huge progress in solving fashion’s diversity problem, there are still steps to be taken. Research published by the Guardian this week suggested that only 9.3% of the covers of bestselling magazines in 2017 featured a person of colour. Meanwhile, there is still limited representation for plus-sized and older women, both on the page and the catwalk.

Although there is still a way to go until we reach full fashion diversity, the positive reception of campaigns which showcase models of different ethnicities, ages, body types and gender identities reveals the appetite we have for a more representative runway. As the Vogue cover emphasises, the future of modelling is inclusive, healthy and empowered—and it looks beautiful.

LONDON RUNWAY'S PLEDGE At London Runway, we don't just want to talk about the big issues - we want to take action ourselves.

That's why we're pledging to represent diversity on our covers, in our pages, and through our own social media channels.

We won't be swayed by race, gender, religion instead, we choose our cover as the most striking photograph available for publish in each issue.

To ensure that we hit our diversity targets, we're looking out for shows and editorial submissions which draw on cultures which represent more than the white cis female model.

We're attending events like London Fashion Week Mens, Pakistan Fashion Week London, and the Muslim Lifestyle Show to make this happen.

- Chief Editor

Find Rachel on Twitter at @rachelfrances_ Images via Instagram; Rhiannon D'Averc; London Runway

TOP MODEL 2018 MICHAELA FRANKOVA Top Model 2018 saw looks by an array of designers showcased by a full gamut of up and coming models. Michaela Frankova's designs lean towards the fanciful with plenty of lace and fur, without getting lost in the fairy tale.

Photography: Joanna Foster

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ALSO AT TOP MODEL 2018 WAS LOUISE ROSE COUTURE, PRESENTING 50S-STYLE BRIDAL AND OCCASION WEAR FROM READING.

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AGNES KRIVANICS INTERVIEW

After her work was presented at ILFWDA during LFW, we just had to catch up with Agnes about her designs.

Hi Agnes! Let's start at the beginning: how did you become a fashion designer?

My way to become a fashion designer was very unusual.

Most of the designers would answer this question easily like they were dreaming about it when they were a child.

I never did. I didn’t dream to be a fashion designer, I just made dresses for myself as a hobby since age 13 to express myself. Luckily my family supported me with my hobby, especially my grandmother who allowed me to cut up her dresses even if it was her favourite one.

I love to wear unique clothes and that feeling to see the result of my own creations made this hobby stronger. I started to make more and more outfits for every occasion and enjoyed getting positive feedback from my friends and the questions from unknown people like “Excuse me, where did you buy your dress?” It took me a long time to realise but finally I opened my eyes that it is not just a hobby. I love to create, people love what they see and I can’t be that egoist and create dresses only for myself. That’s how I decided to start studying fashion design as a profession at age 33. I believe that it’s never too late to start to do what you love and what is really your passion.

" IT’S NEVER TOO LATE TO START TO DO WHAT YOU LOVE" Where have you been drawing your inspiration from so far?

I reflect. ‘Me time’ gives me time to think and reflect on my experiences and day-to-day life. Usually the Bing moment happens when you least expect it - like when you're on the train, or in the shower, or right before bed.

And as I am a fabric lover most of the time the inspirations are coming from fabrics. My hobby is to visit fabric shops, where I can spend hours touching the fabrics and imagining the dresses. Because of this hobby I have a huge fabric collection so when the inspiration comes, and it can be in the middle of the night, I am ready to create.

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Tell us all about some of your most recent designs.

My greatest passion is combining.

Combining the styles (historical with modern) and combining the materials (recycling, upcycling material with luxury and highquality fabrics).

My designs are bespoke and draped creations with attention to detail. I create feminine shapes to make a woman feel beautiful, unique and confident with herself.

Your designs use sustainable materials - how do you source them?

I investigate second hands garments and discarded fabrics, figuring out new ways to give them new life and a second chance by using different sustainable techniques like recycling, upcycling, zero waste, fabric manipulation, crocheting and handcraft decorating. Some pieces were made by recycling plastic milk jugs. The rigid surface of the plastic becomes body-friendly by using crocheting techniques on it. For example, one dress was made from 40-year-old fabric, which supposed to be used for my mother’s wedding dress.

Why is it important for you to have an eco-friendly collection?

Creating a sustainable collection is such an easy way to make a huge difference for the planet! And the other reason is, seeing the potential

where others may see waste gives me a new sense of satisfaction. It’s time to get rid of our throw-away mentality and take a look at the steps we can take on a personal level to help stop this vicious fast-fashion cycle. By shopping sustainably, for quality over quantity, we can wear our clothes for longer. We know that we’re supporting the good stuff, and in some way helping the world.

Thanks for talking with us today finally, where can we see your collections next?

This weekend I will showcase my collection at Global Sustainable Fashion Week in Budapest. Thank you for your invitation, it was a pleasure to answer your questions.

How does it feel to see your work on the runway?

In February I presented my first collection at ILFWDA during London Fashion Week and it was a “dream come true”. I’m so excited to see my work walk the runway and feel a sense of accomplishment and pride in myself. It’s turning a vision into a reality and telling a story of where I am now and how my garments relate to my future as a designer.

And this positive feeling inspires me to create new collections.

What does 'fashion' mean to you?

People will always need clothes and it's an important aspect of any human culture to have a creative society and to express themselves visually through what they wear. Fashion is very unique. Some might say a dress is ugly, when another could say it is beautiful. Different people like different things. It depends on who you are and what your opinions are. So, fashion means to me the way to express my identity.

What are your plans for the future?

I will definitely pursue a career in design and I have to improve the marketing and logistics side of fashion. I planning to build my own brand and create more beautiful garments.

Images by Martin Higgs Photography, Robert & Racquel Photography, Cedric Shillingford Tasheira, Robert Bedson

It was not only women that were represented on the Top Model 2018 catwalks. Categories included Worldwide Editorial, UK Editorial, UK Commercial, UK Natural Beauty, Over 25's 25-35, Over 25's 35-45, Worldwide Male, UK Male, and the inaugural Sophie Fraser-Smith Model's Model Award.

The winners in each category, in the same respective order, were: Hope, Chloe Veitch, Arleta Kupiec, Natasha Stoubos, Georgina Green, Janet Laca, Alexander Jenkinson, Naeem Yasin, and Maria Esipova.

See-Saw Clothing contributed a sharp range of jackets, covering all uses from the everyday to more serious occasions.Â

TOP MODEL 2018: SEE-SAWÂ CLOTHING

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As well as wearing work by the talented designers, the competing models also took the chance to walk in self-styled lingerie and swimwear. The Top Model event does not just give models a chance to learn their craft and battle it out on the stage, but is also supportive of a good cause.

Children With Cancer received more than ÂŁ37,500 in donations as a result of the show, breaking the previous record. The total given to Children With Cancer by Top Model since 2010 is now in excess of ÂŁ180,000.

Geoff Cox, Operations Director at Top Model, said, "The Top Model 2018 finals were simply fabulous and a fitting way to complete our 10th anniversary celebrations. The designers and finalists did us all proud and the audience was utterly enthralled with the highest possible standard of shows and entertainment."

SELFSTYLE

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YOUR ADVERT HERE

Our readers are waiting to hear about your brand.

Don't miss out on this opportunity - contact us at info@londonrunway.co.uk to discuss rates and book in an advert for our next issue.

TOP LONDON MUSEUMS

FOR FUN-FILLED FASHION ADVENTURES

Sad that London Fashion Week is over and in need of some fashion recharge during the off seasons? Just wanting to delve more into the fashion scene bursting out of London? Don’t you worry. With some of London’s best fashion museums and galleries for people of all levels of interest to enjoy, there will be a place on this list for you. In no particular order, Candice Wu explores the museums we think you should definitely visit at least once when you’re in London.

Fashion and Textile Museum 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF If you’re looking to surround yourself with fashion goodness, check out the Fashion and Textile Museum situated in Bermondsey Village. With an ever-changing variety of textiles and contemporary fashion, the museum offers temporary exhibitions every 3 months within a year. This means there will always be something new! The current exhibition is about T-shirts in history and their social and cultural impact. Future exhibitions include acclaimed UK and Ireland designer Orla Kiely’s “A Life in Pattern.” Exhibits cost generally between £7 and £9.90. Hosting a plethora of workshops and talks on top of the exhibitions, the Fashion and Textile Museum definitely has a lot to offer.

Fashion Space Gallery London College of Fashion, 20 John Princes Street, London W1G 0BJ Located in the London College of Fashion, the centrally located Fashion Space Gallery is definitely a must-visit when looking for contemporary fashion inspiration.

Originally, the gallery was just an exclusive showroom for LCF featuring exhibitions and works by the students and professors, but they opened their doors for public viewing in 2010, which we’re all appreciative of. What’s even better is that it's free to visit and view all of the exhibitions! The current displayed exhibition is SUPER SHARP. It explores the connection between Italian designer brands and their presence in the underground UK grime and Jungle music scene. It's definitely one to check out, but be quick. The exhibition will run until the 21st of April before it is replaced by another equally thought-provoking and eye-opening showcase. With works from emerging talents as well as worldrenowned designers, it won’t disappoint.

TOP LONDON MUSEUMS The Design Museum, 224-238 Kensington High Street, London W8 6AG 3. The Design Museum The Design Museum is another contemporary art and design filled space for creatives looking to broaden their knowledge. Holding workshops, talks, and exhibitions, the museum definitely isn’t lacking in activities. Although its main focus isn’t on fashion, but on contemporary design as a whole, they provide introductory displays and tours for curious minds wanting a taste of what the designing world is like. An upcoming fashion exhibition that might be of interest is “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier.” Running from 10 May - 7 October 2018, the exhibition showcases the late monsieur’s pieces chronicling his life and designs from the 1980s to 2017. He’s designed for the likes of Grace Jones, Michelle Obama, Rihanna, and many more. The museum offers free admission, but temporary exhibits such as this one will cost you around £8-20 depending on the exhibit.

Although a little pricier compared to the other museums on this list, there will be loads of amazing and beautiful pieces to view.

5 Other Museums to Check Out With extensive fashion collections dating back to the early 1900s and occasional runway showings and workshops, these are some other museums that aren’t fashion-centred but definitely still worth a visit. ● Museum of London ● Victoria and Albert Museum (right) ● Somerset House ● Barbican Centre ● Photographer’s Gallery Besides the costs for individual exhibitions, most of these museums are free to enter, so even if you’re just looking for a place to chill and explore, they will definitely be a good place to spend your day. Hopefully, you’ll come out more enlightened and inspired after seeing all of the amazing works. If you do end up going as a result of our suggestion and enjoyed the exhibitions or museums, let us know by tagging us in your Instagram and Facebook posts or shoot us a tweet. Our social media handles are all listed on the back cover, so don’t be shy!

All images via Instagram

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MALIN Photography - Mehmet Hassan www.flyingpadre.com Model - Malin Hamilton at Sapphires Model Management www.sapphiresmodel.com Styling - Malin Hamilton Hair and Make-up - Francesca Panzera www.fpmakeup.com Graphic Design - Sophie Brown Malin wears: Grey turtleneck - Chiquelle Pink trousers - BikBok Black blazer - Zara Floral top - H&M White blouse - H&M Black trousers - GinaTricot

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WHAT DO CHILDREN’S T-SHIRTS SAY ABOUT GENDER EQUALITY? Laura Foster-Devaney considers whether the latest controversies in children's clothing have made any difference.

Aside from the age-old “girly” pink versus “boyish” blue dichotomy, the debate surrounding the presentation of children’s clothing has become particularly prevalent of late.

There’s the recent announcement that John Lewis are removing gendered labels from their children’s range, and the H&M controversy, in which the clothing brand were criticised for choosing a black child to model their ‘’Coolest Monkey in the Jungle’’ hoodie.

This highlights the inevitable impact caused by slogans featuring upon children’s clothing, particularly when the increasingly contentious aspect of gender is considered. Just a quick scan of the options available on the popular market reveals key disparities in tone through the messages displayed in the boys’ section, and in those of the girls’.

Though unisex options are on offer in most high street shops, the gendered sections contain a far wider and more versatile selection of clothing. Focussing specifically on the t-shirt category, examining the slogans on boys’ and girls’ tops made for interesting reading.

Beginning with H&M, within the “4 months – 4 years” category, the text on girls’ t-shirts include nature-oriented themes: “I love rainbows”, “Bee amazing today”, and empowering messages such as “We are the future”.

Similarly positive themes could be found in the boys’ section, with “I choose today” and “I will change the world!”, however, a more active register was evoked in slogans such as “Chase your dreams”, as opposed to the more passive “Dreams do come true” within the girls’. In addition, where a simple “The Rolling Stones” band t-shirt complete with the logo is available for boys, the logo, paired with “I’m with the band” (my emphasis), is allocated to the girls; though this is not exactly divisive, it is not sending an equal message to all children, adhering to the harmful stereotyping of active, motivated boys and passive, submissive girls.

In the Debenhams range, boys had more dynamic, direct phrases such as “Sprint”, “POW!” and “Strong”, whereas girls’ slogans were rooted in fantastical themes, with “I should have been a mermaid”, “Flutter with the flowers” and “Dance with fairies, Ride a unicorn, Fly to the moon.”

Such a contrast subtly places girls in a more imaginative yet removed position, whereas boys are characterised as more assertive, yet one dimensional.

This is reinforced in Mothercare, where girls are given messages that encourage common values and selfempowerment: “Bee your beautiful self” and “Beauty lies within” (nightwear), whereas boys are labelled with superficiality: “super cool!”, “Super awesome, chill out, good vibes”.

On the other hand, boy’s t-shirts also display slogans that are more vocational, with George at Asda’s “space dude, star commander”, Mothercare’s “I was born to be an explorer” and Debenhams’, albeit more figurative, “I’m the boss”.

Girls, however, contain more complex phrases, containing French words (Debenhams): “Bonjour” and “Très cute”, and

CHILDREN'S T-SHIRTS longer, more conversational sentences: “I’m a girl, what’s your super power?” (Matalan). On this level, girls are expected to be more sophisticated, whereas boys appear to have greater career prospects.

In short, children of different genders are being presented in largely different lights through the clothes that they wear, which is a potentially damaging prospect.

Though these disparities are subtle, from a limited sample and may not always be construed to portray negative qualities, the very fact that they could be overlooked is the reason why they are dangerous. At such an early stage in their development, young boys and girls are being assigned specific and contrasting roles, which may expand into greater issues as they mature. Small, seemingly insignificant features such as these are far more likely to slip under the radar, which is why high street retailers should take greater care in how they choose to characterise children’s clothing.

All images via Instagram Find Laura on Twitter: @devaneyfoster

OMAR MANSOORÂ ALSO SHOWCASED AT TOP MODEL 2018 IN OUR FINAL FEATURE FROM THE EVENT

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LONDON RUNWAYÂ Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk

A/W 18

Front cover: Mehmet Hassan Back cover:Â Najla Abdulaziz