INTERVIEW WITH NATHALIE COSTE . FEMALE EMPOWERMENT. MENSWEAR TRENDS
LFWM . MODEST FASHION LIVE . PAKISTAN FASHION WEEK LONDON . UHURU
ISSUE 19 JULY 2018
LONDON
RUNWAY
London Runway
CONTRIBUTORS Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc Staff Photographer: Ian Clark shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Features Editor: Rachel Parker features@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Caz McKinnon musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Arts Editor: Eleanor Dyson - arts@londonrunway.co.uk Graphic Design: Peter Bevan graphics@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Fil Mazzarino, Ana Lazovski, Elvis & Kresse, Boodi, Henrica Langh, Mady Pater, Amira Sahara, Sam Rangasamy Special thanks to Nathalie Coste, Valeria Aleksandrova at Hundred Showroom, London Organic PR, Megha Shah of Uhuru
Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk © 2018, London Runway and contributors
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IN THIS ISSUE Letter from the Editor
This fortnight, we’ve been reflecting a lot on the issue of empowerment. What is empowerment? How can we gain more of it for ourselves? And how can we give it to others? This was something that played on our minds after the Equaliteas event with London Organic PR, which you can read about more later. Candice Wu has also written her own thoughts on the subject for one of the articles we have for you this issue. The feeling we have is that empowerment is about being able to stand up and walk forward for yourself. However, it can’t end there. Empowerment is also about turning around and offering a hand to others, to help them walk forward by your side. Therefore, while we talk about the empowerment of women in this issue, know that we also have an eye on other concerns. The empowerment of people of colour, disabled people, men, people of all and any faiths, those living in
poverty – all these and beyond, we support you and hope to share your voices as we go on. Of course, it’s not just empowerment that we’re talking about in this issue. We also have some more galleries from London Fashion Week Men’s shows, plus an overview of how menswear lined up in London, Milan, and beyond. We’ve attended a few exclusive events across the capital which we are bringing to you, including the most recent Modest Fashion Show at Westfield – this was a real treat, allowing us to see how plenty of high street brands also carry fashions that suit a modest taste.
favourite bookmark. Don't forget, we're open to submissions, so go ahead and check londonrunway.co.uk to read our guidelines for writers, photographers, and artists. We welcome contributors from all directions, including minorities and ignored voices. And as always, drop us a line via info@londonrunway.co.uk if you have a show you think we should see or a feature you think we should run. Enjoy!
Plus we’ve got an interview with French London-based designer Nathalie Coste, revealing why she chose our fair city for her new home, and a review of the McQueen documentary film which came out this month. Then there’s our gorgeous editorial featuring clothing and accessories from Uhuru, a new platform for sustainable and ethical sellers which is set to become your new
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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CONTENTS Photography #Hatmosphere - 7 Equalities Afternoon Tea With London Organic Pop-Up - 8 3.Paradis & Pony - 11 Blindness - 17 Pam Weinstock Collection Launch - 22
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Oliver Spencer - 28 Modest Fashion Live - 34 New Girl (cover story) - 45 Caroline Castigliano - 60 ALT/MODE - 64
Features Fashion News - 4
LDC Launch - 78
Fashion Report: Menswear SS19 - 9
Inside Arc - 83
Eight Times That Art Walked The Runway - 14
Pakistan Fashion Week London - 87
Empowerment Through Your Lingerie, Clothing, Or Accessories - 25 10 Tips And Tricks To Look Better In Photos - 43 Interview With Nathalie Coste - 57 Beehive Hair And The Art Of The Lyric: Why Amy Winehouse Remains An Icon - 76
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McQueen Review - 100 The Big Question - 101
London Runway
MPS LAUNCH AN INQUIRY INTO THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPLICATIONS OF UK FASHION
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FASHION NEWS
by Rachel Parker The impacts of fast fashion and disposable clothing on the environment have long been a cause for concern in the fashion world. Now the UK government is getting involved, with the House of Commons environmental audit committee looking into ways to alleviate the damage the clothing industry makes on the natural world. MPs will measure the carbon and water footprint of clothing throughout its life cycle and examine how clothes can be recycled and waste and pollution reduced. Mary Creagh MP, Chair of the Environmental Audit Committee, explains that “Fashion shouldn’t cost the earth. But the way we design, make and discard clothes has a huge environmental impact. Producing clothes requires toxic chemicals and produces climate-changing emissions.
The Committee will also inspect how garment production matches up to the UK’s social and environmental commitments under the UN Sustainable Development Goals. This will examine not only sustainability concerns, but investigate whether the UK clothing industry protects labour rights and promotes safe and secure working environments. There are signs of improvement on the horizon for the UK fashion industry, with ASOS announcing a new Sustainable Fashion Training Programme for its designers, launching in partnership with London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion.
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‘’Every time we put on a wash, thousands of plastic fibres wash down the drain and into the oceans. We don’t know where or how to recycle end of life clothing. Our inquiry will look at how the fashion industry can remodel itself to be both thriving and sustainable.”
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FASHION NEWS NEW WOMENSWEAR FLOOR UNVEILED AT HARVEY NICHOLS by Rhiannon D’Averc Harvey Nichols have revealed their new designer womenswear offering, after revamping the 22,000 square foot area during the course of four months. The refurbishment work is part of an ongoing series of changes at the Knightsbridge department store, which is engaged in a heated battle with nearby rival Harrods to lure in the millennial crowd. These high-spending shoppers are largely behind the resurgence of the luxury market, and the management felt the need to do more to appeal to this demographic.
Boutique spaces include brands such as Versace, Stella McCartney, Marni, Off-White, Chloe, Dries Van Noten, and more. All of the brands’ offerings – such as ready to wear, accessories, and so on – will be included within the boutique space, rather than the floor being split by category. Recent updates to the Harvey Nichols store have included a more opened-up shoe section, an expansion to four full floors of womenswear, the launch of a digital shopping service, the addition of a beachwear section, and the revamp of the beauty section. More changes are expected to come.
via Harvey Nichols
The new designs and layouts all intentionally play on the smaller and more intimate setting of Harvey Nichols, helping to promote their quirkiness and more personalised approach. They are looking to create “a more sophisticated and elegant interior akin to a luxury boutique,” according to a spokesperson. The womenswear restructuring has been done “to create a fluid open space to ease the customer journey through the brand offering”.
The original windows have been exposed to bring in more natural light, and the interior design includes patterned marbles, textured glass, and raw steel to create textural contrast.
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FASHION NEWS HENRY HOLLAND AND EBAY CREATE NEW CAPSULE COLLECTION FOR PRIDE by Rhiannon D’Averc Brit designer Henry Holland has teamed up with eBay’s UK division and the LGBT youth homelessness charity The Albert Kennedy Trust, to create a capsule collection in honour of London’s Pride parade. The event, which takes place annually in July, has increasingly attracted attention from the fashion world. In this case, Holland has designed rainbow-coloured limitededition pieces exclusively for eBay – hoodies and t-shirts. The full 100% of proceeds will be going to The Albert Kennedy Trust to support their work. Featuring empowering messages such as ‘Equality’, ‘Independence’, ‘Freedom’, ‘Protection’ and ‘Community’, the garments are being sold at £40 and £20 each.
Henry Holland said: "I feel passionate about the Albert Kennedy Trust and their amazing work and the team that make it all happen. I have worked with some of the young people who have benefited from their amazing support on this design and it really was a collaboration between us all. I hope everyone loves wearing it and promoting the message behind it as much as we enjoyed designing it.” A number of fashion brands have come out with new collections to celebrate Pride 2018 around the world. These include Primark, ASOS, H&M, Target, Levi’s, and Urban Outfitters. It’s easier than ever to wear your heart on your sleeve if you wish to support the LGBTQ+ community, whether you are a part of it or simply supportive of its members.
via eBay
This isn’t the first time that eBay has worked with the charity. It provides safe homes, training, support, and mentoring to young people aged between 16 and 25, who are facing homelessness or the risk of homelessness as a result of coming out.
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#HATMOSPHERE This pop-up hat shop was a delight to see. Featuring designs from many of London’s great milliners – and those from overseas – it was the largest collection of hats on sale in one place ahead of Royal Ascot. With plenty of summer parties and weddings to attend, there’s never a better time of year to invest in a hat. More than 400 hats by more than 60 designers were gathered by colour and price, creating a rainbow display that was a pleasure to browse. We’ve spotted some of our favourites by milliners we’ve been proud to work with in previous issues – and a few that are yet to come.
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EQUALITEAS AFTERNOON TEA WITH LONDON ORGANIC POP-UP Marking 90 years since the Representation of the People Act, which gave equal voting rights to men and women, EqualiTEAS and London Organic PR hosted an afternoon tea party with a difference. This was all about a discussion of empowerment, a safe place for us all to share our thoughts on what it is, how we can improve it, and even whether women actually have it yet. We spoke about the fact that patriarchy damages men just as much as women, and how we need to fight for empowerment for everyone, not just one social group. We talked about how we live in an incredibly privileged position: if you’re reading this right now, it means you have access to technology which you can use to spread your voice. That’s something that people in developing countries don’t always have.
It was also an eye-opener for our editorial team. While we have pledged to show diversity in our pages in the past, the event made us realise and remember that there are groups out there who are often completely invisible in pop culture, even in this day and age. To that end, we’re promising again: London Runway is a safe place for people of all backgrounds, identities, and types – and not just the white, skinny, rich, cis female represented in the majority of fashion magazines (although she’s welcome here, too). Your voices are important, and we always have an ear open for them.
via London Organic PR
We also talked about fashion, and how the clothes you wear can allow you to choose your own story for the day – becoming who you want to be. It was an inspiring afternoon of vegan cakes, tea from EqualiTEAS, beautiful fashion with a focus on ethics and sustainability, and women who are taking the chance to empower themselves.
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FASHION REPORT: MENSWEAR SS19 With the SS19 shows wrapping up in Paris, Rachel Parker looks at what we learned from a month of men's fashion. It has been a big month for men’s fashion, with designers presenting their Spring/Summer 2019 collections in London, Milan and Paris. From the major fashion powerhouses to emerging design talent, all manner of masculine styling was explored. Whether or not you’ve been following the action as closely as the World Cup, here are London Runway’s keynotes to the major shows and trends that defined a month of menswear.
LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S Kicking off the first stretch of men’s fashion presentations right here in the capital, ASOS opened LFWM with a showcase of their new season designs on a Soho rooftop. The collection was an appropriate introduction, highlighting many of the trends we saw featuring time and time again in the following weeks. Streetwear was central, with bum-bags, sports sunglasses, chunky trainers and socks with sandals all making an appearance. Playing with a sunny colour palette of yellow, mint green and fuchsia, mixed in with metallic and sheer fabrics and plenty of holographic accessories, this was a bright and contemporary collection from a brand synonymous with accessible style.
organic cottons and sustainable fabrics. In one of the final shows of the London season, What We Wear brought wearable street staples back into the spotlight, redefining traditional sports silhouettes through incorporating timeless classics. And with that, London’s demonstration of modern British menswear concluded.
MILAN FASHION WEEK MEN’S Heading overseas to one of the world centres of luxury fashion, the Milan cohort brought a quintessential sense of Italian elegance to masculine styling. Colour was everywhere, from the rainbow trousers and psychedelic prints of Prada to the bold neon, florals and clashing patterns seen on the Versace catwalk. One of the key tends highlighted by the Milan shows was logomania. With streetwear such an important part of the contemporary
One of the key take-aways from the London menswear shows was that—well, there’s no such thing as menswear. Several designers chose to focus their collections on gender fluidity and ambiguity, bringing fashion into dialogue with wider social conversations about how we define people through their bodies. Art School presented a unisex collection at the MAN SS19 show organised by Topman and Fashion East, which saw models take to the catwalk in boxer shorts and stilettos as well as drag-style sequinned corsets. Meanwhile, the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy show explored gender-free fashion through a study of the relationship between the body and the digital world. Repudiating the idea of face-tuning and digital manipulation, the androgynous silhouettes on the catwalk celebrated extra-terrestrial bodies as well as the lumps, bumps and bulges of an average human figure. What else? Daniel W Fletcher and Kiko Kostadinov looked to the world of workwear for inspiration, experimenting with different conceptions of uniform from tailored suits to tabards and overalls. LFWM icon Oliver Spencer presented a relaxed assemblage of laid-back jackets and unstructured suits, placing ethics at the centre of his aesthetic with
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fashion landscape, designer branding was a universal craze, from Fendi’s signature FF monogram print to sloganned Dolce and Gabanna T-shirts. It wouldn’t be Milan Fashion Week without a generous helping of luxury heritage, and the menswear collections stayed true to form. Effortlessly tailored slim-fit jackets and trousers as well as sleek leather accessories elevated the predominantly street-influenced outfits. There were nods to retro styling, with high-waisted trousers, ruffled shirts, turtlenecks and tiny shorts all appearing in multiple collections. Again, the shows explored the relationship between fashion and the digital landscape. The Dolce and Gabbana SS19 show used an army of online influencers and digital celebrities as models, from YouTube stars Cameron Dallas, Nash Grier and Marcus Butler to musicians Wizkid and Tinie Tempah. Dressed in ermine-style coats, sumptuous silks and golden crowns, this show made a statement about who our modern monarchs are in the age of online empire.
PARIS FASHION WEEK MEN’S The final leg of the men’s fashion journey took place in Paris, concluding with some historical shows. With Virgil Abdoh’s first collection for Louis Vuitton and Kim Jones’ Dior debut, Paris saw a week of menswear revolution. Virgil Abdoh heralded a change in direction for the Louis Vuitton men’s division, creating a Wizard of Oz themed show that saw the collection transform from an all-white colour palette to a vibrant rainbow halfway through. Blending classic couture techniques with streetwear staples, the show featured hoodies, combat trousers and trainers as well as bold prints and holographic accessories. Meanwhile, the Dior Homme SS19 collection looked to more traditional sources of inspiration, combining Christian Dior’s codes of couture womenswear with a contemporary masculine edge. With pale porcelain tones, sheer and lightweight fabrics and floral motifs featuring throughout, this was a decidedly feminine collection from the new artistic director. Femininity was also a trend at Maison Margiela, the French house currently under the creative directorship of John Galliano. Supple silks, embroidery and pointed platform boots all gestured towards a blurring of gender binaries when it comes to our wardrobes.
Later in the week, the Agnès B show mixed the workwear-influenced outfits seen during LFWM with a touch of old Hollywood glamour, taking inspiration from American and French cinema of the 1960s. From chimney-sweep chic to elegant business wear, each ensemble had a relaxed elegance and sense of storytelling. Summer dressing also was a vital trend, with Cerruti 1881 and Jacquemus both incorporating beachwear into their collections. And so concludes a month of men’s dressing. The main notes to take away? Bucket hats, trainers, bum-bags and logo prints are SS19 essentials. Tailoring will be relaxed, nonchalant and even slightly crumpled. Mix sportswear with business elegance and you will be right on the sartorial money. Most of all, have confidence—in the words of Donatella Versace, ‘‘these are men who do not care about the rules and that is exactly what I love: they have an opinion and make their own style choices.”
Find Rachel on social media with @rachelfrances_ Images: LOUIS VUITTON Men Collection Autumn-Winter 2018/2019 © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved Oliver Spencer and What We Wear by Ian Clark
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3.PARADIS & PONY This capsule collection, entitled ‘Far Away From Home’, was presented during London Fashion Week Men’s, and plays with the contrasting ideas of home and away. Not only does it represent the idea of a sports team playing games at different venues, reflecting the street athletic style of Pony, but it also represents the people who moved to New York City to find a better life – their own form of paradise. Taking both these ideas, and a mix of the aesthetics favoured by each brand, the result was a layered athletic collection which embraced both utility and streetwear. Warm hoodies, sharp jackets, baggy shorts, and bucket hats were the main touchstones of the collection. Photography by Ian Clark
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EIGHT TIMES THAT ART WALKED THE RUNWAY This week, Ellie Dyson reflects on the bond between art and fashion, ahead of the Old Master’s painting sale curated by Victoria Beckham. Sam Rangasamy illustrates. Victoria Beckham has been investing in art for years, mainly choosing contemporary artists like Tracy Emin and Banksy. But recently, the singer-turneddesigner looked to a new direction, with a collaboration with Sotheby’s. Ahead of the Old Master’s painting sale on the 4th June, Beckham carefully curated a collection of her favourite portraits stretching over a range of eras, the oldest dating back to the fifteenth century. The work was exhibited in her Dover Street store from the 22nd to the 27th June, before being moved for the auction starting on 4th July. Featured here are two of the sixteen portraits which have been curated for the exhibition and auction. The auction house hopes that this exciting partnership will invite a younger generation to invest in art, whilst also generating a buzz for a genre which has recently been receiving less interest, what with investors going for a more contemporary category. However, this collaboration is not the first time art and fashion have intertwined. Here’s a look at eight times we admired art on the runway.
Mary of Burgundy, Michael Pacher (c. 1490) Portrait of a Venetian Nobleman, Sir Peter Paul Rubens (c. 1620s) via Wikimedia Commons
YVES SAINT LAURENT
JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC
Saint Laurent was struggling to keep up with the modern ideas of his rivals, and needed to hit on a new idea, when he discovered it in Mondrian’s work. Art and fashion came together when the abstract paintings were re-created three-dimensionally within an A-line shift dress. But what was spectacular was that the art wasn’t just printed on the cloth – but instead, advanced pattern cutting techniques were used to cut the shapes individually, and constructed in a way which made the garment appear like it had no seams.
The tragic painting of the drowning ‘Ophelia’ was painted by Sir John Everett Millais in 1851-2. Millais probably didn’t, however, imagine that his preRaphaelite masterpiece would feature in the Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Autumn 2013 collection. The ‘Foxy Lady’ show began with monochrome fabrics and tartans, with blue hues starting to appear, until mirrored masterpieces were walking the catwalk, further transitioning into an explosion of red – the arrival of ‘The Fox’.
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RODARTE
LOUIS VUITTON
The Mulleavy Sisters’ original design inspiration for their Spring 2012 collection were the greens and purples used in Disney’s Sleeping Beauty, until they started to explore other artists who used these colours. This led on to their ready-to-wear garments to feature Van Gogh’s ‘Sunflowers’
Marc Jacobs himself invited artist Daniel Buren to design the set for the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2013 Paris show, after Buren’s previous work had served as inspiration for the entire collection. The shopping mall escalators at the back of the runway fitted in perfectly with the Swinging Sixties look which the show encapsulated, as numbers of malls massively grew in this era.
VERSACE
The Marilyn Monroe dress first appeared in the 1991 Gianni Versace show, worn by Naomi Campbell. In 2018, Donatella Versace’s tribute show for her late brother featured many classic looks from the designer’s successful history, and it also returned to the Andy Warhol inspired dress, except with modern silhouettes. One such outfit featured a Marilyn mini dress and matching thigh high boots.
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MCQUEEN ROBOT-PAINTED DRESS
MCQUEEN SCARVES
At the end of McQueen’s Spring 1999 show, Shalom Harlow emerged like a ballerina on a revolving platform in a white dress, where she was sprayed with paint by two robots. An art piece was being created in front of the audience’s eyes, as Harlow rotated and appeared to struggle in a prepared, almost distressing performance.
To celebrate the tenth anniversary of the famous Alexander McQueen skull scarf, McQueen worked with Damien Hirst to create thirty limited edition designs. Insects, including butterflies and spiders, are featured in kaleidoscopic patterns which cleverly reveal the iconic McQueen skull. One of the reasons that this collaboration worked so well was because both Hirst and McQueen fixate on nature in their work, and so the partnership of both creatives is seamless.
GIVENCHY
Riccardo Tisci’s 2013 menswear collection for Givenchy brought together not just art and fashion, but religion as well. Washing through black, the palest pink, and mauve, and featuring tees, sweatshirts, and crisp tailoring, it results in a satisfyingly meaty collection. Tisci’s team recreated William-Adolphe Bouguereau’s work in edited prints, for example, some with the Madonna’s eyes covered. Bouguereau had an affinity towards Italian and Sicilian women, and Tisci’s predominant inspiration also came from the strong Italian women in his life and his Roman Catholic upbringing.
You can see more of Ellie’s work on Instagram by following @elliejdyson. You can find Sam Rangasamy’s work on Instagram @neo_psyche
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BLINDNESS
The theme of blindess was interpreted literally for this show, as models walked the runway wearing elaborate veils and blindfolds across their faces. Others were studded with pearls, draped in elaborate embroidery, and swathed with beige and mauve. There is a real vulnerability in the soft-toned, layered fabrics, with romantic bows and frills adding to the silhouette. The creative directors took inspiration from the emotions of a first love, a vision that is visible in every fold and embellishment. Photography by Ian Clark
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Pam Weinstock London has launched a new range of cotton silk chiffon sarongs entitled ‘The Garden’, inspired by the gardens of the Western Cape. This is the latest in a series of styles from the designer/photographer, who uses her skills together to create beautiful prints taken from photographs. At the breakfast launch event, she showcased the range of colours and patterns, which are sure to excite print enthusiasts (as well as those ready to jet off somewhere even sunnier this summer). The sarongs are priced from £120 and are available to purchase through Wolf and Badger or Pam Weinstock’s website. Her other collections include linen, silk, and poly suede textiles, as well as a range of candles made in the UK from natural sources. Photography by Ian Clark
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EMPOWERMENT THROUGH YOUR LINGERIE, CLOTHING, OR ACCESSORIES This week, Candice discusses the impact and statements that the fashion world has made on recent female empowerment campaigns, fashion shows, and collections. "Give a girl the right shoes and she can conquer the world." - Marilyn Monroe Mentality has such a great influence on one’s sense of worth and feeling of empowerment, and what better form of selfexpression is there than fashion to boost one’s mindset and confidence? That LBD or pair of jeans that perfectly accentuates and compliments your unique body shape can act as a helping hand in a nerve-wracking blind date or fun night out with friends. That perfect pair of shoes can give you the comfort you need to tackle that business meeting or win a football match. These small fashion choices and nuances that people might overlook have an immense impact on how we act in our everyday lives and routines. From clothing to intentional fashion statements, empowerment and self-love has become a central theme in many notable designers’ collections, fashion brands, and the overall fashion scene itself, and we’re all here for it! “Women should be wearing lingerie for their damn selves” true to Riri fashion, Rihanna made it a point to let women around the world know that her lingerie line, Savage x Fenty, was for their comfort and enjoyment when interviewed in May. Having officially launched on May 11th of 2018, it quickly sold out within a matter of minutes. The 90 piece collection was comprised of lingerie, sleepwear, and accessories, and with reasonable prices, a wide size spectrum, and quality designs, the hype for the lingerie was definitely understandable. Prices sat comfortably under the $100 price point with some pieces as low as $14.50, and the body-positive size range for bras and other clothing items varied from 32A to 44DD and XS to 3XL, respectively.
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Egyptian-Saudi eyewear company, Magrabi, also recently teamed up with Ascia, Nour Arida, Mariam Yeya, Fatima Almomen, and Tamara Al Gabbani, the top 5 female fashion influencers in the Middle East, to launch the female-empowering campaign, #EmpowerYourVision. With gender equality in its core values, this was befitting of this company. Women living their life the way they envision it is the main emphasis, and this campaign was strategically aligned with the monumental June 2018 Saudi policy that allowed women to drive. In an interview with Harper's Bazaar Arabia, Ascia said “I feel like we forget that every part of the world is in a different stage of the female empowerment journey. We need to recognise that to empower women even more everywhere, rather than shaming them for not being at the same level.”
The general misconception about lingerie is that women don these lacey, racy, and, oftentimes, uncomfortable pieces of garments to please and impress their significant other. This definitely isn’t the case for this collection! Her beauty line, Fenty, and collaboration with Puma were also major hits in the previous years due to their inclusive range of colours, sizes, and overall branding. A longtime philanthropist, humanitarian, and just overall badass female, Rihanna’s influence on women of all ages, as well as in the general media, is apparent. In March, she easily knocked $1 billion off the value of Snapchat’s parent company, Snap Inc, after criticising the social media app for the approval of an ad that made light of domestic violence. Having been a domestic violence victim herself, she used her influence to speak out against this negligence for those who weren’t able to or those who may have overlooked this deeming it as funny or normal.
Whereas women in Saudi Arabia only recently gained the right to drive, women in more feminist progressive countries, such as the United States, have been driving for decades. But, even at their “progressive” stage, movements such as #MeToo, Time’s Up, and the Weinstein Effect, are still necessary to further give a voice to these women. The recent Fashion Week shows are also raising the bar with diversified catwalks. Top model Teddy Quinlivan’s reveal of her transgender sexuality was positively received by many during the end of NYFW. Having seen a plethora of more plus size, transgender, and “unconventional” models on the runway, the fashion world and its patrons are sending out a clear and loud message. There can never be such a thing as too much female influence or empowerment. We’re only just gaining a
Empowering women has always been the focal point of all of her endeavors, and her lingerie line was no different. She said: “It has to be authentic, it has to be from me, my perspective. I’ve wanted to do a lingerie line for a long time, but it was important to me that it be done right. Everyone should feel good wearing lingerie. That’s it.”
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foothold, and brands and shows such as Magrabi and the Fashion Weeks aren’t planning to step down anytime soon. Vera Wang most famously said, "A woman is never sexier than when she is comfortable in her clothes." Be it a pair of your favorite sweats on a chill Sunday afternoon or your most glamorous evening gown for a more posh occasion, style and fashion have always been that necessary form of self-expression that people of all walks of life used and needed to present themselves to the world. It doesn’t matter your age, sexuality, shape, colour, or so on. Your unique style and clothing preferences personify you and display your statement to the world. Whether that statement is “I’m sexy and I know it,” or “I’m a quirky ball of fun,” what you wear really does affect your mentality, and fashion, nowadays, is more noticeably picking up on this and pulling through! Alexander McQueen had also once said, “I want to empower women. I want people to be afraid of the women I dress.” The interpretation of the sense of fear he speaks of isn’t that of intimidation, mindless obedience, or belittlement, in my opinion. Women who dress for themselves are empowered women, and for those who aren’t ready for this new wave of selfconfident and self-assured individuals, that is definitely something to be feared.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9 Images via Instagram @teddy_quinlivan @savagexfenty @magrabi @magrabiopticaltr
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OLIVER SPENCER Titled ‘Wildflower’, the Spring/Summer 19 collection from Oliver Spencer is all about bring hippie and nature themes more in line with the modern, urban man. Environmentally sustainable fabrics are key, bringing a new resonance to the natural tones and floral accessories. Tailoring is still strong, even where silhouettes may be slightly more relaxed: the modern man obviously enjoys an urban safari, where comfort is almost as important as style. Even bigger than the clothes is the message hanging over this show: do good for the Earth, and give back. This is underlined in a number of ways, firstly the focus on sustainability: Spencer has reduced packaging by 30% and now powers all of his locations with renewable energy. There’s also a charitable angle. In partnership with Vero, Spencer set up a donation button on all of his coverage via the social network to raise money for Shine Cancer Support. Proceeds from the wildflower t-shirts will also support this cause. Photography by Ian Clark
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MODEST FASHION LIVE It’s truly inspiring to see how modest fashion can be interpreted not just from specialist brands, but also from the high street. The collections put together on the Modest Fashion runway at Westfield London really highlight that, with a great mix of brands on display. These looks are perfect for women who prefer to dress in a more covered style, whether out of religious reasons, because of disability or confidence issues, or simply because they prefer the look. This show proves that modest does not have to mean boring, or plain. The looks ranged from fantastic occasion wear to something you might choose to walk down your own high street in. With embroidered and beaded details, bows and ties, and much more, a whole rainbow of styles came down the catwalk. This was a great celebration of modest wear, proving that a fashion show doesn’t need to flash the flesh in order to be interesting and exciting. The catwalk shows took place as part of the London Eid Festival, a free shopping festival with pop-up boutique stalls and plenty of special offers within the Westfield centre. The aim was to break down the barrier between mainstream shopping and brands seen as Muslim-centric. Waleed Jahangir, CEO, Algebra Consulting, said: “This economy is predicted to be worth $4.7 trillion within the next few years, so for brands understanding the potential of this market the opportunity is huge. This freeto-attend event has been created as a positive step in breaking down any social misconceptions and showcasing a rich and diverse community. Consumerism and commerce has no colour.” The brands on show, in order, are: Abayabuth, Nur Jahan, Aldo, White Company, Arabian Nites, and Khaadi. Photography by Rhiannon D’Averc
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10 TIPS AND TRICKS TO LOOK BETTER IN PHOTOS Rhiannon D’Averc explains some handy tips to make those selfies and photoshoot images pop.
10. PREPARE BEFORE THE SHOOT If your shoot is a one off, it’s really worth putting in a little bit of effort beforehand. You could think about buying a new outfit to wear, and getting your hair done as close as possible to your shooting date and time. If you are worried about your figure, you can even try putting in a few extra hours at the gym - if it makes you feel more comfortable, it will be worth it, because your confidence will show!
9. BRING ALONG SOME HELP If you really want to look your best, having professional makeup and hair can seriously make a difference. Even if you have a friend who is a bit of a wizard with an eyeliner, you can bring them along to make sure you look fantastic in every shot.
8. PRACTICE AT HOME Sit or stand in front of a mirror, and focus on trying out different poses, facial expressions, and angles to see what works best for you. You can even use your phone camera to check the results, and try copying models that you admire. Be aware that you will look slightly different on camera to how you do in the mirror, because of how our eyes work, so selfies are a good way to practice.
7. DO YOUR RESEARCH If you want to emulate the hottest fashion models out there right now, the best way to start is by seeing how they do it. You can also look at articles for advice - just like this one - and put together a file of all of the inspiration and advice you find. This way, you’ll be able to put what you have learnt into action every time you take photos, without feeling at a loss, because you can check back easily.
6. CONSIDER TUTORIALS Do you want your hair done a certain way? Is there a make-up look that you know would look great on you? If you don’t want to hire a professional, then consider watching tutorials on YouTube that will show you how to get the look. Make sure that you practice before you are ready to shoot in order to get it perfected!
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2. LOOK FOR THE LIGHT One of the biggest tips that I always give to aspiring models is to be aware of your light source. Whether you are shooting in front of studio lights, a flash mounted on the camera, or just the natural light of the sun, turning your face towards it can give you a much more attractive portrait because it eliminates strange shadows across your face. Keep looking towards the light, and you will find that you have a great set of images!
1. SMILE At the end of the day, there is nothing that can make you look more attractive or give your face more of a lift than a great smile. The more genuine it is, the better it looks - so try not to focus too much on dramatic, moody shots, and remember to relax as much as possible to let that real smile shine through. Smiling has the added bonus of giving your mood a boost, meaning that you will feel much better for the rest of the shoot as well!
Find more modelling advice and book modelling tuition sessions from Rhiannon at www.pcistudio.co.uk. Images by Rhiannon D'Averc, from top of article: Max Fletcher; Yeva Delininkaityte; Olivia Talbot; Mitch Smart; Rachel Marquez
5. GET TO KNOW YOUR PHOTOGRAPHER Going to a photoshoot can be intimidating if you don’t have experience. Talking to your photographer beforehand will really help you to relax on the day, and it will also mean that they get a better idea of what you want from your portrait. That makes it a win-win situation, so having a little discussion about the shoot - even if just over email or Facebook messages - is a fantastic way to get the portrait started right.
4. TAKE A DEEP BREATH It may sound like a cliché (and it may also sound easier said than done), but simply taking a moment to relax can make a huge difference to your photos. If you are nervous and tense then it will show up on camera; try to either calm yourself down, or fake it by trying to appear as calm and confident as you can. Planning in advance using these tips can help you to relax, too, as you will be more confident in what you are doing.
3. DISCUSS YOUR IDEAS If you have a certain look that you want, or have dreamed up a great concept, then it’s a fantastic idea to talk to your photographer about what you want to do. Not only will this give you a better-looking image that you personally love, but also the professional experience that the photographer brings to your concept can really make it pop. Give them time to think about it beforehand and how to pull it off in the best way - if you come out with something unexpected on the day, it might not look the way that you wanted it to.
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London Runway
NEW GIRL Photography - Rhiannon D'Averc Assistance and additional photography: Fil Mazzarino MUA: Ana Lazovski Wardrobe: From Uhuru: Elvis & Kresse bags, Boodi jewellery, and Henrica Langh clothing Styling: Megha Shah Models: Mady Pater and Amira Sahara Uhuru is a shopping platform with a conscience. Founder Megha Shah, appalled by the destruction caused by the fashion industry, brings together brands with a focus on sustainability and ethical sourcing. Not only that, but the sales also benefit charities who help to undo some of the damage done by other shopping channels. With a focus on great quality, it’s clear that the brands available on UhuruFashion.com are making a bold statement. This is the real future of fashion: sustainable, ethical, giving back, and still chic.
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Mady wears: Agliophobia button-up blouse - £154.00 and Agliophobia trousers - £158.00, both Henrica Langh; Perenna Landscape Ring Gold - £295.00 and Empanda Signet Ring Gold - £110.00, both Boodi. Shot by Fil Mazzarino
Amira wears: Agliophobia double-sleeved shirt £220.00, Henrica Langh; Aurelia Earrings Gold - £360.00 and Dea Dia Rope Bangle Gold - £335.00, both Boodi
Amira wears: Agliophobia trench coat £572.00, Henrica Langh; Aurelia Earrings Gold - £360.00, Boodi
Mady wears: Memento Mori ‘Terribly Beautiful’ T-shirt - £70.00, Henrica Langh; Purse - £110.00, Elvis & Kresse
Mady wears: Memento Mori ‘Terribly Beautiful’ T-shirt - £70.00, Henrica Langh
Mady wears: Memento Mori ‘Oh the Mortality’ vest £57.00, and Agliophobia trousers - £158.00, both Henrica Langh; Post Bag £150.00, Elvis & Kresse; Bija Hoop Earrings Gold £195.00, and Perenna Landscape Ring Gold £295.00, both Boodi Left: shot by Fil Mazzarino
Mady wears: Memento Mori ‘Oh the Mortality’ vest £57.00, Henrica Langh; Bija Hoop Earrings Gold £195.00, and Perenna Landscape Ring Gold - £295.00, both Boodi
Amira wears: Agliophobia trench coat £572.00, Henrica Langh; Aurelia Earrings Gold - £360.00, and Dea Dia Rope Bangle Gold - £335.00, both Boodi Shot by Fil Mazzarino
Amira wears: Memento Mori ‘Rib cage’ vest £57.00, Henrica Langh; Torc Necklace Gold £430.00, and Dea Dia Rope Bangle Gold £335.00, both Boodi Shot by Fil Mazzarino
Mady wears: Memento Mori ‘Oh the Mortality’ vest - £57.00; Bija Hoop Earrings Gold - £195.00, and Perenna Landscape Ring Gold £295.00, both Boodi
Mady wears: Agliophobia button-up blouse - £154.00; Empanda Signet Ring Gold £110.00, Bija Hoop Earrings Gold - £195.00, and Versuvius Moon Ring Gold - £280.00, all Boodi
NATHALIE COSTE INTERVIEW Just what brings a French designer to set up shop in London? We sat down with Nathalie Coste, whose exciting eponymous label hits a lot of cultural touchstones, to talk about her aesthetic, her sourcing, and how her fashion career brought her to her current style. Explain your background for us, and how you got to where you are today. I am Nathalie Coste, I am a fashion designer. I’ve been working since five years around upcycling, only with dead stock fabrics, for making short series – like capsule collections – and also focusing on uniqueness, most of the time uniqueness. My fabrics are reconstructed vintage t-shirts from rock and roll bands, most of the time metal bands, that I reshape and embroider. It’s my best seller, and the clothes that I like to work on. I was in the fashion industry as a stylist and patternmaker for more than 20 years now, and I decided to stop because it was just like a nightmare. I really loved my job since my childhood, but I think the kind of system in France is you need a lot of money to have your first collection by yourself. Because I like my job, I decided to work in the industry, but I was not working on my dream. Just to raise my children and have a good life.
"I DECIDED TO WORK IN THE INDUSTRY, BUT I WAS NOT WORKING ON MY DREAM." Now my children are adults, and we decided to move to London from Paris, and I decided to break from the industry. To work with upcycling, clean fashion, clean for the planet and with a real purpose of unique pieces. With nice finishing, because I’ve worked in the high fashion industry too, making dresses and wedding dresses, and I like nice clothes inside and outside. Like kind of a present for my customers.
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Why did you decide to come to London? Part of my family is already in London – my daughter – since seven years. And finally, it’s a dream. When I was young, my first shopping for a brand was in London, when I was 18, and it was like love at first sight. My mind for years was full of London, and now finally I am here. Where do you get your inspiration when you look at the clothes you upcycle? Most of the time music. Music and photographs. It’s a kind of passion for me, but first of all it’s music – I love it. Where do you source your vintage clothing? I have some of my friends that gig around the world, and they update me when they are in a huge concert with a band that I like, and take t-shirts back. A lot of the time I find them with collectors, there’s a lot of vintage band t-shirts collectors that I know now, and we exchange. I don’t customise all my pieces, because sometimes they’re too small, I can’t reshape the t-shirt because I need very big size. We make exchanges, or most of the time I buy collections from the USA. How would you describe your personal style? Depends on the day, but I like to be very comfortable with my clothing, but at the same time I like glitter, I like make-up, I like jewels. Something very girly but with a lot of comfort. I can imagine that I can travel in one hour, I can plan for that, I can plan to have a dinner in a restaurant and just pick up my jewellery without changing any of my clothes.
What are you working on right now? I’m a little bit late, but it’s really difficult to have a season for me. Since I work in London, and I have my showroom too with Valeriya, I can follow seasons. It’s easier to plan collections, because when I worked in France, I was just working with unique pieces and it was really difficult to imagine a season. I think for a few years I had a need to cut with the scissors, because I was a slave to the scissor when I was working in fast fashion, but now it’s fine. I’ve finished the summer for next year, and I’m beginning to think about the winter. What’s your biggest dream? To find good places to have London shows for my brand. That’s my focus. Are there any other designers that you get excited about? Designers, yes, a lot – Alexander McQueen. He’s the king. I liked Viktor and Rolf, but at the beginning. A little bit arty, but I like that. I like the mix between art and fashion. It’s interesting. Some young brands from London, I don’t remember the names, but lots of young designers – very creative. But I think Alexander McQueen is just the one, because it’s everything for me. After fashion week, I spend one night to see all the catwalks that I like. But I was a little bit disappointed by the big brands, because I think the designers always do the same thing. At the beginning, by example, Gucci was ‘wow’ – yes, glitter, embroidery, and so on. But then it’s the same thing every year and season. The same thing with Dior. It’s why I like the new designers in London because it’s ‘wow!’. That’s why I liked Alexander McQueen, because it was changing every year. There was a signature
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and the spirit, but it was always creative and always a surprise. Who’s your favourite musician? It’s really difficult to say – too many! I’m a huge fan of Marc Bolan of T-Rex. And The Beatles, because I was raised with The Beatles in my ears. Led Zeppelin, Metallica, Neil Young too when I’m chilling. It depends on the mood!
Is there any musician or band you’d still like to see live? Yes! I’m following Fat White Family. It’s a UK band. Is there a band whose t-shirts you prefer? No - but it depends, I have some bands that I don’t want to work with! Emo bands, bands that are too cute, boy bands – old boy bands can be interesting because it’s a little bit kitsch, but recent ones, no. And mainstream music. I like to be a little bit particular and innovative. What would you be if you weren’t a designer? A singer in a rock and roll band! (laughs) Where can we find you online? I have my website and shop online – www.nathaliecoste.uk
Portait by Rhiannon D'Averc; event photography by Val Yuwen Hsieh
London Runway
CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO: AN EVENING OF BRIDAL INSPIRATION
Brides-to-be were in for a serious treat at this VIP event, organised by Castigliano but involving participation from just about everybody you could possibly need to make your wedding a success. De Beers were there to talk about how they’ve built a reputation as the world’s leading diamond company and display their selection of delicate bridal jewellery. We all sipped delectable champagne from the oldest wine merchants in London, Berry Bros. & Rudd. Then we listened to luxury wedding planner Bruce Russell explain how he ensures that every bride gets their perfect day. Charlotte Tilbury make-up artists were on hand to show off their bridal skills, in tandem with royal and celebrity hairstylist Richard Ward. Snapping away at the event was luxury and celebrity wedding photography Andy Mac, and we all had to smile at the idea of jetting away on a Scott Dunn honeymoon. In the end, we exited the way we had entered: through a beautiful floral arch put together by the designers at Paula Rooney. But that was only after we’d gorged ourselves on the beautiful wedding gowns worn by equally stunning models throughout the event. Divine! Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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ALT/MODE Leave it to students to show us the ultimate in creativity. This show is so diverse, it almost boggles the mind. We’ll leave it to you to absorb the extremely interesting designs put out by students from the University of Coventry in their final show: there’s no way we could paint an accurate enough picture in words. These designers are the future. DESIGNERS Eliza Coxwell Lok Ching Kanna Yeung Shammin Reid Neola Traynor I-Chen Daphne Yang Aishah Jan Samantha Poulton Sophie Randall Tomas Bendik Yeo Ri Cha Victoria Bishop Vicky Ratcliffe Gessica Albu Lucy Watts Karol Paszczuk Simona Kalatsov Yuejia Ji Kalsoom Bukhari Sum Yi Chan Veronika Badova Francesca Murphy Photography by Ian Clarke
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BEEHIVE HAIR AND THE ART OF THE LYRIC: WHY AMY WINEHOUSE REMAINS AN ICON In Paris 2012 Jean Paul Gaultier released his Autumn Winter Collection to mixed reviews in Paris. For a couture show, critics seemed slightly confused by the show’s inspiration. The collection was a direct homage to Amy Winehouse, incorporating her signature beehive hairstyle, knee length pencil skirts and skin tight polo shirts. Having been released only a few months after her passing, the collection can be viewed as a loving send off to the iconic superstar whose life was struck with so much chaos and tragedy. However it can also be viewed as a direct explication for how Amy Winehouse’s style wasn’t just innovative but how it reached levels of icon status that few ever come close to. With fashion as in music, Amy Winehouse made an impact at the height of her fame. Her messy beehive hair style (that is known in the United States as “British hair”), her tight, 1950’s inspired dresses and her cat-like eye make-up influenced Chanel, Dior and Givenchy’s collections between 2006-2008. Her look was influenced by her adoration of jazz, soul and 1950’s girl groups; it was this same love that gave her a distinctive sound that was, and is, entirely its own.
via Bryan Adams
Caz McKinnon explores how one singer's sense of style helped her achieve iconic status.
Amy Winehouse was certainly not the first star whose style became emblematic due to the intensive media scrutiny she faced. Princess Diana, Cheryl, Lindsey Lohan and Marilyn Monroe had the same effect on popular culture, shaping the tone not just in their respective fields but in the way the public ingested their style and how designers conceived new ideas from what the public were preoccupied with. However, what distinguishes Amy from other media fixations is that her style was wholly unique and not akin to what was in fashion at the time. While women like Diana and Lohan were notorious for emboldening styles from the time that were already popular, Amy Winehouse devised a new look that was entirely original, not unlike her music. In 2015, Asif Kapadia released a documentary called Amy, a harrowing and intimate look into Amy Winehouse’s life story. The film does a good job of examining her love for things of the past. The artists who motivated her like, Ella Fitzgerald and Tony Bennet, encapsulate why her haunting low contralto voice created music that was simultaneously fresh and new while also being classic and timeless.
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via Bryan Adams
via Bilion Photos There is something paradoxical about how Winehouse’s music influenced her style; it is at once gritty, messy and raw while also being controlled, poised and finely tuned. Her music and her style have this in common. The stripped back production of “What is it about Men” (2003) has a bass guitar being plucked mournfully in the background, the studio version bearing some resemblance to early Mary J Blidge with a 90’s inspired RnB backing track. Early Amy Winehouse is much more influenced by jazz. It is unvarnished and marked by its authenticity. Her style then was much less developed as an image, when she wore her hair flat and straight with boyish jeans and eclectic but usually unassuming blouses and t-shirts. Then came Back To Black in 2006, an album that shot through the stratosphere. Overnight it became the UK’s second best selling album of the 21st century, selling 3.8 million copies in the UK alone and a whopping 20 million copies worldwide. Produced by Mark Ronson and Salam Remi who had worked with The Fugees and Nas, the album has a sound and a visual aesthetic that would be what defined Amy Winehouse in the lexicon: Pop tracks heavily influenced by jazz, RnB, soul and hip hop with a lot of acoustic beats and pointed percussion.
Lyrics like "We only said goodbye with words/ I died a hundred times/ You go back to her/ And I go back to black" (Back to Black, 2006) and "This face in my dreams seizes my guts/ He floods me with dread/ Soaked in soul/ He swims in my eyes by the bed/ Pour myself over him/ Moon spilling in/ And I wake up alone" ( Back to Black, 2006) are deeply indicative of her writing style. Confessional, introspective, vulnerable; how it would feel to read someone’s diary. Songs like Rehab and Love is a Losing Game are already considered classics arguably for this reason. It is this hybrid of music and lyrics that makes Amy Winehouse an icon in her own right, in a way that is exempt from heroin, The 27 club, Blake Fielder Civil and the torrential media storm that helped take her life. It is hard to separate or compartmentalise what it is that made Amy so iconic. It seems to be a sparkling combination of her nuanced, oddball approach to fashion and her soulful, trailblazing approach to producing music of the highest calibre. What I am sure of however, is that she was indeed an icon. An icon of music, British culture and fashion. What remains in her legacy is the idea of authenticity. Of being true to your own self, no matter how much on the side-lines that puts you, manifesting in the form of style, make up, music and lyrics.
This however would mean nothing if the album didn’t contain arguably some of the best lyrical content to be written in years. Not unlike Joni Mitchell and Stevie Nicks, there is a whole new generation of artists who owe a debt to Amy Winehouse. Adele, Lana Del Rey and Taylor Swift to name a few. Being a woman who unabashedly spoke about how difficult and trying love, mental health and addiction were set a tone for female artists coming up within the industry.
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LDC LAUNCH Fashion week as we know it has been shaken up.
We attended the launch event for Lone Design Club’s latest pop-up event at 6 Slingsby Place, Covent Garden. Lone Design Club launched in 2016, and steadily began to grow after their very first pop-up. Their aim is to unite brands to create a larger public reach. Each addition to the team will have knowledge, resources and a customer base which they can add to a larger pool, thus allowing everyone else to grow and flourish. London Fashion Week asks for large sums of money to enter, and this means that many, for whom those funds are not available, miss out on the opportunity to showcase. Lone Design Club is certainly a more attainable space, but it also offers more than Fashion Week would. The company works as a team with the brands, and ensures that a relationship is built between creator and customer. During the weeks that the pop-up store is open, customers are invited to visit, purchase uniquely crafted items, and get to know the story behind their purchases, as there are always several of the creators present in the store. During the launch on Wednesday, certainly, the sense of community-based achievement was tangible. Visit their NEXTGEN concept pop-up before it closes towards the end of July.
Text: Ellie Dyson Images: Ellie Dyson & Rhiannon D’Averc
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INSIDE ARC Until the 28th July, The UAL’s Fashion Space Gallery is hosting a selection of items from Jennefer Osterhoudt’s archive collection. Rather than a museum collection, this archive is in fact a working one: often used by stylists and designers to add to editorials and shows. It contains many garments, accessories, and other paraphernalia gathered during Osterhoudt’s long career as an accessories designer – including many pieces created during her time working with John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. The items are a glimpse into the way collections are built and created. One such example is the Alexander McQueen skull scarves taken from the very first collection in which they were used, Irere of S/S 2003. They were first developed by Osterhoudt to be bag accessories, fitting into a pirate theme. It was a huge success, and to this day the brand continues to release the skull motif scarf in different colourways and in special editions.
Finally, who could resist a flare of jealousy at seeing the immense hoard of backstage passes that Osterhoudt has amassed? These keys to the kingdom are shown next to a literal key, as John Galliano’s A/W 1994-5 collection, Black With Touches of Pink, used vintage and rusty keys to accompany the personally written invites. Osterhoudt sourced these for him from a seller at the Clignancourt market. This free exhibit is certainly worth a visit, and you only need 20 minutes or less to browse everything. Find out more at fashionspacegallery.com/events
Words & photography by Rhiannon D’Averc
Plenty of toiles can also be seen in the exhibition, including the rose jacket from John Galliano’s S/S 1996 show, Le papillon et la fleur. An incredibly difficult jacket to make, it was also difficult to wear. Osterhoudt was the only one who knew how to fit it properly, with ties around the chest under the arms. For this reason, she had to attend every fitting and also explain the fit to buyers so that they could sell it correctly. Many of the pieces were salvaged from rubbish bins, after Osterhoudt was told not to keep them – but seeing their fine craftsmanship and sensing potential historic importance, she chose not to. We can all be grateful to her for that – without her prescience, we would never be able to see the original forms of these famous garments. The shoes on display were in fact crafted by Osterhoudt herself, and contain illustrations by three artists who had to be convinced to design right onto the pattern. Serge Seidlitz, David Cooper, and Sarah Howell created these eye-catching boots, three out of the five that were eventually made. It is also intriguing to flick through pages of Osterhoudt’s journals from her career, in which she would note down all kinds of details to keep them in her head – phone numbers, business cards, details on orders, instructions, measurements, and so on. A digital display has been set up within the exhibition so that viewers can browse the pages at their leisure.
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PAKISTAN FASHION WEEK LONDON The fashion of Pakistan returned to London once again this week, with colourful designs and intricate embroidery as much a staple as ever. The stunning looks on show were as impressive as we expected, and we can’t wait to bring you more galleries from the runway in our next issue, too. The designers featured in our coverage here are as follows, in order of appearance: Fahad Hussayn Haris Shakeel Hassan Riaz HSY Kanwal Sana Rashid
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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MCQUEEN Rhiannon D’Averc reviews the new documentary release about the life and work of Alexander McQueen. Alexander McQueen is almost a god in our industry. Ask almost anyone whose work inspires them the most – ask almost anyone of my generation who it was that got the interested in fashion in the first place – and his name trips off the tongue. However, that story is always undercut with a strong note of sadness: the fact that someone so idolised, so admired, could take his own life. McQueen feels like an attempt to explain exactly why and how Lee McQueen came to that point. Throughout the interviews and old footage scattered through the film, we get to build up a picture: how even using his middle name instead of his first was a decision that was taken away from him. How pressure and expectations built up, forcing him to supress his personal style when he worked for other houses, causing him to change his appearance and become someone that he didn’t even recognise. How even those closest to him were often pushed away in favour of his work, which consumed his life so entirely that there was no separation between the two.
It’s a compelling exploration, and while it is utterly enthralling from start to finish, it doesn’t tell the full story. Of the larger than life characters who make up the film’s principal cast, there is one person who is notably absent: Sarah Burton, the intern who grew with the brand until she eventually took over the designing chair after his death. As arguably the most important person you would want to talk to during this kind of documentary – given that she still holds the position to this day – it sorely lacks her insight into the way his mind worked when creating his collections. Perhaps her lack of representation has something to do with the moment when, looking into a camera that captured him long before this documentary went into production, McQueen clearly states he would not wish for the label to carry on if he was no longer there at its helm. Some characters – and I use characters here deliberately – are portrayed in certain lights, giving you an impression of their personality which is clearly influenced by the decisions of the filmmakers. For better or for worse, it allows us to slide easily into the narrative, given easy stereotypes and forms to get to grips with. Perhaps strongest of all, as I left the showing, one question was left in mind: why didn’t these people help him? Despite the fact that McQueen told his friends explicitly that he was planning to kill himself on more than one occasion, it still happened – and not one of them ever talks about any way in which they tried to help or dissuade him from this idea. Perhaps it’s unfair to make a judgement after just two hours of footage – but when the world loses such a formidable talent, it can only be a tragedy for us all. If you want to get deeper into the McQueen story after having seen the film, I highly recommend Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty by Andrew Bolton and Harold Koda. Not only does it fill in some of the blanks – including suggesting a clear motivation for his suicide – but it also contains stunning full-page images of some of his key pieces, as well as explanations of the looks and staging of all of his shows. The final verdict on this documentary: it’s beautiful, moving, and ends up a tear-jerker. But more than anything, it will remind you of what a genius McQueen was with cloth – and how beautiful and innovative his work still feels even today.
Read more from Rhiannon on Twitter - @rhiannondaverc
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THE BIG QUESTION
We asked, you answered
"Spinach, I just eat it by the gallon" – Lalla Bronshtein, designer at Lallaxrr
"CHIPS! I KNOW, IT’S BAD, BUT…" - LINDA MIREMBE, MILLINER AT LINMIR
"Nutella pancakes" – Monika Dolna, designer
"TOAST!" Peter Bevan, Graphic Designer
"I'd eat pizza because there's so many types, such as savory and dessert pizzas, and it's also super customisable" – Candice Wu, Editorial Assistant
"Guacamole" - Beth Kite, model
"Chocolate of course" – Fil Mazzarino, photographer
"FRUIT" - @KAYJAYMODELORIGINAL, MODEL
"Hummus!!" – Eleanor ‘Poppy’ Greenfield, student
"Carrot" – Olga Crimmins, designer at Neobotanic "Spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and basil. And parmigiano! I can eat that every day" - Nathalie Coste, designer
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
London Runway
CONTACTS 3.PARADIS – 3paradis.com ABAYABUTH – abayabuth.com ALDO - aldoshoes.com ANA LAZOVSKI – analazovski.com ARABIAN NITES - arabiannites.co.uk BLINDNESS - blindnessstudio.com BOODI - uhurufashion.com CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO – carolinecastigliano.com COVENTRY UNIVERSITY - coventry.ac.uk ELLIE DYSON – twitter.com/elliejdyson ELVIS & KRESSE - uhurufashion.com EQUALITEAS – equaliteas.org.uk FAHAD HUSSAYN - fahadhussayn.com FIL MAZZARINO – cyclopevideo.com HARIS SHAKEEL - instagram.com/harisshakeelofficial HENRICA LANGH - uhurufashion.com HSY - hsystudio.com HUNDRED SHOWROOM - hundredshowroom.com IAN CLARK - photobyian.com INSIDE ARC - fashionspacegallery.co.uk/events KHAADI - khaadi.com LONDON ORGANIC PR – londonorganicpr.com LONE DESIGN CLUB - lonedesignclub.com MODEST FASHION LIVE - modestfashionlive.com NATHALIE COSTE - hundredshowroom.com OLIVER SPENCER - oliverspencer.co.uk PAKISTAN FASHION WEEK LONDON - pakistanfashionweek.co.uk PAM WEINSTOCK LONDON - pamweinstock.com PETER BEVAN - peterbevandesign.com PONY - pony.com RHIANNON D'AVERC - pcistudio.co.uk SAM RANGASAMY – instagram.com/neo_psyche SAVAGE X FENTY - savagex.com UHURU – uhurufashion.com THE WHITE COMPANY - thewhitecompany.com WHAT WE WEAR - whatwewear.com WOLF AND BADGER – wolfandbadger.com
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LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk
RRP £9.99
Front cover: Amira for Uhuru by Rhiannon D'Averc Back cover: Blindness by Ian Clark
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