London Runway Issue 67 - The Dress-Up Issue

BILLIE EILISH . OUTFIT CHALLENGES . NEW TRENDS FOR KNITWEAR . HALLOWEEN TIPS . ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

EIRINN HAYHOW . HOUSE OF IKONS . FASHIONS FINEST . SEEUN KIM . TULLEYS SHOCKTOBERFEST . AETER

ISSUE 67 27TH OCTOBER 2021

THE DRESS-UP ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Thomas Woods Advertising enquiries - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Milena Carmeri, Nancy Brusorio, Francesca Lapadula, Taisia Crippa, Oxana Kolesnikova, Franziska Lerch, Romina Kalsi, Franco Taranto, Rosanna Stega, Olga Mastronardi, Eugeniya Kuzmenko, Olga Petrunina, Katy Paige Mclean, Chloe Frame, Marta Merlo, Shay, Charlie Kaufman, Victoria Pikhotina, Yuliya Bedryak, Polina Tsyvkonova, Nadi Blitz, Allan Nacpil, Amreen Shaikh, Riyaa Sharma, Varsha Mukherjee, Anjali Verma, Toabh Management, Prachi Jajoo, The Co.ord Studio, Sana’s Patisserie, Pari Shah, Rachana Chaudhari, Jitesh Vaishnav, Seeun Kim, Keshä, Gairika Mathur, Arunima Kumar, Anastasia Bukina, Yulianna Yurenkova, Lyubov Belyavtseva, Tulley’s Shocktoberfest, Fashions Finest, AKDC's Indian Summer at Notting Hill, London Represents, Ajoy Sahu, Aeter, House of iKons, Dr Noki x Andy Murphy, Seeun Kim Special thanks to: Franco Taranto

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene

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CONTENTS

1

1

VISUALS Divine Fluctuations (Cover editorial) 6

Aeter

100

Glamorous Beauty (Editorial)

18

Ajoy Sahu

101

Eirinn Hayhow

24

Dr Noki x Andy Murphy

103

New Faces

31

London Represents

108

Portfolio Piece: Allan Nacpil

37

Let Them Eat Cake (Editorial)

39

Seeun Kim

45

House of iKons

52

Style (Conscious) Guide: Dress-up Box

62

Rebellious (Editorial)

64

Hannah Sosna

71

AKDC's Indian Summer at Notting Hill

76

Tulley's Shocktoberfest

82

House of iKons

86

Fashions Finest

94

WORDS How to Dress-up for Halloween the Right Way

4

Billie Eilish: A Fashion Revolution

16

I Dressed in Seven Different Aesthetics For a Week— and You Should Too!

27

Thrifting a £20 Charity Shop Outfit

48

Cool, Cosy, Conscious

73

Your Style Horoscope

104

What Would McQueen Do?

119

The Big Question

122

Welcome to the October issue of London Runway – and to my last issue for a little while!

As Chief Editor, I’ve been in charge of every single issue of the magazine that has come out to date. Every one of them has passed under my eyes before going out, and I’ve always written an editor’s letter to introduce them – as well as preparing lots of other bits of content as well.

But for the first time, I’m going to be absent for a few months as I go on maternity leave. This means I’ll be leaving you in the more than capable hands of our senior team, stepping in to fulfil editorial duties – and I couldn’t be more excited to see what they produce!

From next month onwards, don’t be surprised to hear from a new face here in this spot, while I’m somewhere dealing with dirty nappies, bottles of milk, and lots of other adorable distractions!

I’m looking forward to having a break, and getting to be a reader just like you for a while. I know our talented team of writers and photographers, not to mention our outside contributors, will put together some really special content for our graphics team to work with.

With Christmas, the new year, and another Fashion Week coming up before I’m back, you’re definitely going to be in for some real treats! And don’t forget our annual London Runway Sustainability Awards, which are sure to be another source of some serious excitement and competition.

Anyway, enough about me – let’s talk about the issue you’re about to read! As always, there are some interesting thought pieces to sink your teeth into: a couple of our writers have tried out some challenges limiting their budget or their aesthetic to see what would happen. It’s worth giving it a go yourself, as you’ll see! If you’re still looking for that last-minute Halloween

costume we’ve got some advice that will have you covered, and we’ve also got trend ideas to help you out for the rest of the autumn.

Fashion Week galleries, Shocktoberfest, and some gorgeous editorials round out this month’s content.

Be sure to keep an eye out for our cover image next issue where you might spot a familiar face, our menswear winner for the Face of London Runway 2021, Robert Keene, in his first shoot with us. Look out for our womenswear cover coming soon, as well as more shots of our runnersup!

So, that’s it from me for 2021.

I’ll see you on the other side – and I leave you in very capable hands.

For now: Enjoy!

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

HOW TO DRESS UP FOR HALLOWEEN THE RIGHT WAY This week, as Halloween draws closer, Ruth Croft discusses how to dress the right way this festive season, and why we need to be leaving some costumes in the past.

Halloween is back and better than ever. Sometimes known as ‘All Hallows’ Eve,’ it is a celebration that reflects the liturgical year, dedicated to remembering the saints and martyrs that have departed.

The holiday is supposedly inspired by ancient Celtic celebrations, those specifically with pagan origins.

However, Halloween is now a modernised event, with festivities such as trick or treating, costume parties, carving pumpkins, bonfires, visiting haunted attractions, watching horror movies, and telling ghost stories. There can sometimes be firework displays, alongside treats like mulled wine and toffee apples. It is an incredibly popular celebration, especially with young people.

It is something we all look forward to every year, with some getting excited over the spooky season as soon as the leaves burn red and gold.

But before the night arrives and we put our pumpkins outside, we need to be having a serious think about our costume ideas, and what the right choice is.

When we think of Halloween costumes, a few come to mind immediately. The most common are traditionally witches, black cats, and pumpkins. In recent years, lots of people will choose costumes that reflect pop culture. People will dress up as villains and final girls from scary movies, famous musicians, influential celebrities, and characters from films or tv shows that have a considerable following, such as Harley Quinn, Princess Leia, Ellen Ripley, Black Panther, and Wanda

Maximoff.

This is one of the best parts of Halloween, as it allows people to be creative and express themselves through artistic reinvention.

Similarly to cosplay, those who take their costumes seriously are typically very well received by others, because of their dedication and attention to detail. It’s also fun to see some of our favourite fictional characters come to life.

However, sometimes people get Halloween costumes very, very wrong. Ideas that people wore in the late 90s and early 2000s are simply not acceptable anymore, like the socalled ‘Sexy Nurse’ or ‘Naughty Nun.’ It’s hard to believe that people thought that these costumes were justifiable to wear, to flirt in, to use as a gimmick, when they are extremely insensitive at best.

Similarly, there are the Halloween costumes that are nothing less than offensive. The costumes that should never, ever be worn, that should never have been retailed in the first place. These are: anything involving blackface, transphobic costumes, cultural stereotypes, mental illness and eating disorder trivialisation, sexual harassment, and anything surrounding the COVID-19 pandemic, to name but a few.

In 2021, it seems ridiculous that we should even have to criticise these costumes, that there is a need for debate on why they are so morally wrong. The majority of people will understand that these concepts should be forbidden. But when they are still being sold by brands with considerable influence, we have to wonder just how far we’ve really come in regard to achieving a safe and unprejudiced world.

Images via Pixabay and Pexels

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LONDON RUNWAY

Cultural appropriation is one of the biggest issues within problematic Halloween costumes. It has been described as “the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of an element or elements of one culture or identity by members of another culture or identity. This can be controversial when members of a dominant civilisation appropriate from minority civilisations.”

Essentially, it is the exploitation of other cultures’ religious traditions, music, and fashion. It can sometimes even be deemed as ‘fetishism,’ which in turn, alienates and trivialises those whose culture is being appropriated.

Polynesian. Although this instance was most likely done with the child’s innocent intentions, it is still inappropriate because it is permitting white people to dress up as people of colour. There are plenty of other princes and princesses that they can choose from this Halloween.

When people have been harassed, punished, or ridiculed for their culture’s image, to have people dress up as it for Halloween as a gimmick is extremely disagreeable. For example, an incredibly popular costume in the past has been that which replicates traditional Native American fashion, specifically Sioux.

They were, of course, persecuted for hundreds of years, with millions of indigenous people being murdered from the 1400s onwards. When they were massacred in the name of ‘civilisation,’ to appropriate their style in modern society is nothing short of repulsive.

It is not uncommon, even in today’s standards, for mental illnesses to be trivialised, perhaps the result of people being uneducated about the subject. However, Halloween costumes that stigmatise these issues are still being retailed. When doing my research for this very article, I found costumes that seemed to depict the outdated stereotypes of living in a psychiatric hospital, with straitjackets and bloodied medical gowns. To perpetuate these stereotypes is incredibly dangerous, and so insensitive to those who are dealing with mental health issues. People who struggle with their mental health can sometimes feel very detached from the real world, or completely alone, so for retailers to suggest that they are ‘insane’ or ‘violent’ through Halloween costumes is so degrading, and so entirely untrue.

Additionally, after the release of Disney’s Moana, parents were allowing their Caucasian children to dress up as one of the main characters, who happens to be

Similarly, in 2011, a sexualised skeleton-print dress emerged for Halloween, complete with a measuring tape, which marketers named ‘Anna Rexia.’ To make fun

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of a disease that has the highest mortality rate of any psychiatric disorder in adolescence seems so reprehensible that it can’t be real.

But it is. The costume is still being retailed to this day.

This last one doesn’t need much explanation: when over four million people have died from the COVID-19 pandemic, you shouldn’t be wearing it as a Halloween costume.

How to dress up right for Halloween is actually really easy.

There are hundreds of costume ideas that you can wear based on fictional characters. Barbie, Wednesday Addams, Luke Skywalker, Captain Jack Sparrow, anyone from Marvel, Daphne and Simon from Bridgerton, Wonder Woman, Daenerys Targaryen, Storm from X-Men. It is tremendous fun to create the costume, to spark that creativity within yourself, and have the hard work pay off when you spend all of Halloween night being complimented. There is something really extraordinary about becoming someone else, to celebrate the evening of magic and spooks in style. It’s even better when you know you’ve dressed the right way.

You can read more of Ruth’s work on Instagram by following @thewriterruth.

Divine Fluctuations Models/dancers: Milena Carmeri @milena_crameri; Nancy Brusorio @nancypsilon; Francesca Lapadula @_lafrancy_98; Taisia Crippa @taisiakucherenko, all at New Faces Model Agency di Franco Taranto Makeup Artists: Oxana Kolesnikova @oxana.k_ok; Franziska Lerch @franziskalerch; Romina Kalsi Photographer: Franco Taranto Wardrobe: Rosanna Stega @Stylerose

LONDON RUNWAY

BILLIE EILISH:

A FASHION REVOLUTION As we await her ‘Happier than Ever’ world tour show in the UK, Billie brings to us something more than music.

If you have put on the radio in your car lately or asked Alexa to play the top 50 international playlist, there is no chance you haven’t heard the tunes of Billie Eilish’s new album ‘Happier than Ever’.

And for those of you who live under a rock, Billie Eilish is a nineteen-year-old American songwriter and singer who has won multiple Grammy awards for her singles. Inspired by The Beatles and Justin Bieber, Billie’s music is experimental and unique.

The pop music artist is also known for her distinct fashion statements. Her first walk-of-fame came along with her music video ‘Ocean Eyes’ where her eloquent lyrics and platinum hair gained a lot of fans from across the world. As her music began to rise up on the charts, Billie’s personal style of dressing in oversized and comfortable clothing acquired a ton of spectators too. The then-trending style of athleisure wear was wildly elevated with her large t-shirts and coordinated sets.

When she started in the music business, Billie also wanted to direct her own videos but was denied the opportunity due to her lack of experience. But with videos such as ‘Bad Guy’ that showcased her personal style, quirky colour palette and mind-blowing music, she has taken over the direction of a few of her videos now. The clean storyboarding of the frames in all the music videos of this album splashed with blood, ink, and all the unexpected things created a wave of strapped cargos, chunky sneakers and playsuits.

In her early days, Billie stated that she did not want anyone to judge her or sexualize her. She justified that people cannot have an opinion about it as they don’t know what's underneath. She was initially put into a box of being a scary, weird girl with mind-blowing vocals.

With the release of her second album ‘When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go?” Billie took onto a more dark academia-like colour palette. Neon green roots and dark dyed hair became a trademark look for her quirky style.

This look was also illustrated by Andrew Onorato, an Australian animator for her comeback single ‘My Future’ which is part of her latest album’s line up.

There were a chain of promotional interviews and features in-between the release of this song and the entire album. Eilish made an appearance in a Calvin Klein advertisement where she voiced her opinions about her style. Her monologue stated that no one should judge others based on what they wear.

People should dress for comfort and not for the opinions of others. During one of her shows in Miami, she also released a short film titled ‘Not my Responsibility’ discussing the mentality of judgemental people around her clothes and body. This was later

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released on her YouTube channel for all her fans in May 2020.

Billie was featured on the cover of British Vogue for the June 2021 issue.

Shot by the famous photographer Craig McDean and styled by Edward Enninful, the editor-in-chief himself, Eilish was featured in lingerie from Gucci, Burberry, and a few other luxury brands. This was a unique and exclusive take on exploring a distinct style for the artist. The boundaries that she had created since the beginning between her critics and her fashion statements came into play as the shoot was released. Her advocacy against body shaming and sexualizing women’s bodies worked in her favour as fans and co-stars applauded this experimental cover feature.

This colour palette continued onto her Amazon Prime day exclusive where she performed a couple songs from the album.

Eilish’s interlude ‘Not My Responsibility’ from her latest album speaks directly to the people who body shame her. It straight-forwardly states that she is not accountable for their perspective towards the way she dresses.

LONDON RUNWAY “We make assumptions about people Based on their size We decide who they are We decide what they’re worth If I wear more If I wear less Who decides what that makes me?

What that means?

Is my value based only on your opinion?

Or is your opinion of me Not My Responsibility?”

Billie made an astonishing appearance at the Met Gala this year which was themed ‘In America: A Lexicon of Fashion”. She wore a custom-made Oscar de la Renta gown inspired by the iconic Golden Age star Marilyn Monroe’s tulle gown from the 1950s.

The singer promised the brand that she would walk the stairs of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts wearing the gown only if they promise to permanently end their use of real fur.

A long list of luxury brands such as Chanel, Gucci, and Burberry have gone off track to match Billie’s silhouette incorporating their monograms for various award functions attended by her. The details of these monogrammed looks have drizzled down to her memorable long nails. During the tour of her second album, she was found wearing chunky and trendy sneakers.

She even sported casts given to her for her performance injuries during the many concerts.

We can also never get enough of the custom shoes worn by the artist during stage performances and exclusive shows. Recently, she released two pairs of sneakers in her own collaboration Billie Eilish X Air Jordans. The bright green colour of one of the pairs takes us back to the days of ‘When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go?’. The artist also released her own fragrance this month called 'Eilish'. Housed in a bottle designed to replicate a body cast, she expressed how many of her own memories are connected with various scents. She has truly broken the barriers of fashion and bent the rules to construct a style that is best for her.

You can read more of Suhani’s work on suhani17.wordpress.com and on Instagram by following @suhani_lotlikar Images via YouTube

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Photographer: Olga Mastronardi @olga.mastronardi Model: Eugeniya Kuzmenko @eugeniya_kuz Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Olga Petrunina @makeup_by_olga_st

EIRINN HAYHOW Photography - Katy Paige Mclean; Model - Chloe Frame; Make up - Marta Merlo

LONDON RUNWAY

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LONDON RUNWAY

I DRESSED IN SEVEN DIFFERENT AESTHETICS FOR A WEEK – AND YOU SHOULD TOO! With Halloween just around the corner, Jessica Carvalho explores a more lowkey way of dressing up, and the part fashion plays in our attitude every day.

If there is anything that should be known about me, it is that I do not enjoy being put into a box. Both academically - see: my career change from science to journalism and back, but here we are - and in terms of fashion, too. People are so vastly different from one another that it would be foolish of us to not embrace variety when it presents itself; if not for its genuine appeal, at least for the new experience.

However, I am not perfect. Like most, over the past 18 months I’ve gradually sacrificed my title of most overdressed on any occasion for the comfort of athleisure whenever I was to face the great outdoors. The pandemic has genuinely taught us to take ourselves and life slower, indulge in what truly makes us happy.

Interestingly, I took that to heart with every other hobby of mine (trust me, I no longer look like a baby deer whilst roller-skating, rather a fully grown one on wheels), apart from fashion and dressing up.

for it allowed a pile of clothes that could easily consume a small toddler to take form in the centre of my bedroom. But, with it finally tidied away and the list on standby for the next morning, it was time to get dressy with it. After hard earned rest, of course!

MONDAY – STREETWEAR Top: Nike, Bottoms: Thrifted, Footwear: Travis Scott x Jordan 1 "Cactus Jack" Prior to COVID, this outfit would probably be closest to my typical, dayto-day outfit. Streetwear has always had a special place in my heart not only for the fact it is ultimately an ode to Black culture, but also because it’s a shared interest between myself and my older brothers.

Until the opportunity presented itself to me; with spooky season now in full swing, starting a brand-new course at a new university in the heart of London, and the opportunity to be slightly more vain than I typically am, why wouldn’t I dress in seven different aesthetics for a week and completely confuse any acquaintances I make?

The first step of the operation - and one I blame solely on my Virgo ascendant – was to comprise a list detailing the aesthetic of the day, and each piece of clothing and footwear I’d wear for the next week. An activity I naively saved for a Sunday evening,

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Streetwear was birthed from the hiphop scenes of the ‘90s in New York, more recently with influences from Los Angeles’ skate and surf culture and Tokyo nightwear. The focus of this aesthetic is ultimately comfort, though that is now taking a backseat for superficial ‘drip’ culture (which means to simply wear branded clothes, regardless of whether they complement each other; it has also led to the growing issue of sneaker reselling).

My biggest mistake was perhaps forgoing a jacket; it was chilly that day, but at least it didn’t rain, otherwise my choice of footwear would have been severely impacted – these Jordans are abhorrently overpriced thanks to resellers and its general limited availability, and I proudly treat them like my first born. Perfect ‘fit for the library.

LONDON RUNWAY

TUESDAY – MINIMALIST Top: Weekday, Bottoms: Weekday Rowe jeans, Footwear: Dr. Martens Jadon Boots, Outerwear: Missguided Black Faux Leather Trench Coat My Dad’s first comment about this outfit was to say I looked a lot older than I was, and at the crisp age of 21, I wasn’t so sure I could even take it as compliment anymore. Either way, it was interesting to see myself in something quite far from what I typically go for, especially after pairing together items that I’ve pretty much worn to death separately. Minimalist fashion strives for simplicity and sustainability, so wearing a Missguided item with this outfit is a bit of a paradox, but I can say that this trench has been with me since last year and it has shockingly lasted so long, I don’t see why I wouldn’t continue wearing it for the foreseeable. Once again, few people saw my outfit since I was mostly library-bound, but the jeans were greatly complimented by my ophthalmologist!

WEDNESDAY – PREPPY Top: Thrifted, Collared shirt: Monki collared crop top, Skirt: Stradivarius split A-line skirt, Socks: Pull and Bear, Loafers: ASOS Monster chunky loafers Here it is, the crème de la crème! If you substitute the skirt for some trousers every now and then, this is likely the aesthetic I find myself most aligned with for its versatility changing the items could give you a preppy feel of a different era, whilst keeping the skeleton of the outfit the same apart from the colour could see you diving into the light/dark academia aesthetic. I was hoping to give off a light academia feel as this was my first day of in person lectures, and though interactions were hard to have (I’m an INFJ, contrary to popular belief!), a girl on the train complimented my outfit.

Preppy outfits have been a staple throughout generations, but they’ve seen their peak over the last two decades thanks to pop culture classics such as Clueless and Gossip Girl; two personal favourites.

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LONDON RUNWAY

THURSDAY – E.GIRL Top: New Look, T-shirt: The 1975 merchandise, Bottoms: Weekday Rowe jeans, Footwear: Dr Martens Jadon boots The term E.girl was originally used to describe a girl with an active internet presence, but it has now been diluted to someone who draws fashion inspiration from social media and entertainment, such as anime.

I only planned to go as far as the nail salon near my house, but I ended up near Royal Oak to have lunch with my Dad in the outfit I was most reluctant to wear outside! Though, this may be the most cohesive outfit so far; I had a lazy morning so I did some very extra make up, I currently have red hair, and the E.girl vibe in general was just there. Furthermore, a group of secondary school girls complimented my outfit and though I’m merely two years out of that age gap, teenagers are terrifying; so, to have their approval at all is one of my greatest feats in my short life.

FRIDAY - BADDIE Dress: Pull and Bear, Shoes: ASOS calf boots, Outerwear: Missguided Black Faux Leather Trench Coat Ah, end of the week! For once, a party was in the cards for this Friday, so it was perfect timing for this aesthetic.

Denoted by high-ish maintenance, fantastic makeup and being dressed to the nines, the Baddie aesthetic is close to my pandemic fashion, usually in some form of athleisure paired with overpriced trainers.

Unexpectedly, this outfit won the most compliments, but I’d also like to praise it for its adaptability, as the dress alone saw me through lunch with friends, a quick lecture, and the final outfit. Personally, I’m not much of a dress person but this one won me over; for the way it looked, and the memories created with it.

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LONDON RUNWAY

SATURDAY – SOFT GIRL Top: Weekday, Cardigan: Juicy Couture, Bottoms: Weekday Rowe jeans, Shoes: Converse Nothing says soft girl like a cardigan and a light colour palette, which are two of the most identifiable traits of this aesthetic. Though a little out of season (soft girl Jess thrives when the sun doesn’t set before 8pm), the outfit is one of my favourites this week in terms of appearance and comfort. On this day I had my stepmother’s birthday party and powered by a soju hangover and my genuine love for food, I ate to my heart’s content and was laying on the sofa in a food coma until music began to be played. Furthermore, the outfit followed the pink theme my stepmother was aiming for, so double win.

SUNDAY – Y2K Top: New Look, Tracksuit set: Jaded London, Footwear: Converse Funnily enough, I saved the aesthetic I find myself in most often for Sunday, a day where I did very little apart from storming the Lidl bakery and binging Squid Game. Velour tracksuits are special to me because of how comfortable they are, all whilst giving the appearance that you put in effort.

The Y2K trend seemed to hit its peak in 2019, but more and more elements of the 2010s are making themselves known, indicated by items we swore to forget creeping up on us (yes, I’m looking at you, low rise bottoms), and statement pieces - lots of them.

All in all, a successful recovery day, even if the only thing to appreciate the ‘fit were butter croissants.

Some of the things I learned is that fashion plays a monumental role in how we and others perceive ourselves.

A good outfit is a confidence boost for most, and I needed that desperately with so many instances where I was forced out of my safe, introverted bubble. And, though it’s unlikely that I’ll aesthetic-hop this fervently in

the next few days, I will most definitely continue to seek new combinations for the pieces I own. My advice for you?

Get that list ready and make dressing up an everyday thing, regardless of the season.

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You can find more of Jessica’s work on her Instagram page, @whatjesstypes.

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: SHAY Name: Shay Age: 42 Location: U.K. Agency: Freelance

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I can function with no sleep up to 48 hours

How long have you been modelling for?

6 months

What would surprise people to know about you?

I’ve climbed Mount Sinai

Where are you from originally?

The U.K.

What are your modelling ambitions?

To inspire the more mature women it’s never to late to follow your dreams.

Photographer/Creative Director: Charlie Kaufman @_charliekaufman Model: Shay @shaz679 Wardrobe: Shay's own

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: VICTORIA Name: Victoria Pikhotina Age: 9 Location: Ukraine Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

1 year

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

Cheerleading What would surprise people to know about you?

I like to win

Where are you from originally?

Ukraine

Photographer: Yuliya Bedryak @yuliua_bedryak

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: POLINA Name: Polina Tsyvkonova Age: 36 Location: St. Petersburg, Russia Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

Since 2021 Where are you from originally?

Russia

Model: Polina @polina.tsyvkunava Photographer: Nadi Blitz @nadiblitzfoto

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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

No What would surprise people to know about you?

I was born in Kamchatka What are your modelling ambitions?

Actually I have no modelling ambitions as my main occupation is photography.

ALLAN NACPIL: THE MASTER OF THEMATIC PHOTOGRAPHY

Photographer: Allan Nacpil Model: Marj & Dee Makeup Artist: Hnin Myat

I use photography as a means of self-expression – I make pictures for myself, to identify with hidden qualities of my character, to better understand my reality, and to express my interpretation of the world around me. A clearer understanding of myself and of my world allow me to explore fragments of life as an abstract form, and also to interact with people I would otherwise not be able to engage with.

My goal is to use my camera to open an unexplored world, a place of curious self-expression, but also a world of new relationships, new chances, new beginnings, and most importantly new stories.

My choice of subject comes from a place of intuition and is fuelled by an impetuous desire to partake in the stories that unfold around me. I seek the unknown and I look for the light within the shadows, the stories that are not at first obvious and the uncommon in the common.

I photograph people in their environments because I am curious at what lays behind their eyes, where they have been and where they hope to go.

I am the ALLANIZER. I dont just take photos, I create stories.

portfolio piece Photographer: Allan Nacpil Model: Lizel Daquiog

Photographer: Allan Nacpil Model: Bleugh Gumpad Makeup Artist: Jenika Fernandez

Photographer: Allan Nacpil Model: Lizel Daquiog Fashion Designer: Melody Wedding Services Makeup Artist: Rhaine Abella

Models: Amreen Shaikh @amreenshaikkh; Riyaa Sharma @typicalbombaygirl; Varsha Mukherjee @varshamukherjee; Anjali Verma @anjali.varma09 Creative Director: Suhani Lotlikar @suhani_lotlikar Modelling Agency: Toabh Management @toabhcreative Retoucher: Prachi Jajoo @the_skaper_ Photographer: The Co.ord Studio @the_co.ord_studio Food courtesy: Sana’s Patisserie @sana29cnc Photographer: Pari Shah @mystical_imagery Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Rachana Chaudhari @r.c_makeupandnail_studio Fashion Designer: Jitesh Vaishnav @thejiteshofficial

LET THEM

EAT

KE CA

LONDON RUNWAY

SEEUN KIM

Seeun Kim's numerous art projects & collections have been selected by the NHS for Arts for Health and Well-being project in 2020. Her 'Silla Collection 100' has been selected as a permanent collection for the first time in the Korean collection of Durham University's Oriental Museum in 2021 and Seeun's Sign Language Object Project has been exhibited at Westminster Reference Library for the celebrating exhibition of the International Day of Sign Languages(IDSL).

A ‘Binyeo’ is a Korean traditional hair ornament and originated from the Three Kingdoms of Korea when Silla ladies’ used them to adorn their hair. ‘Binyeo’ was traditionally made of various materials royalty and nobles of high status wore ‘Binyeo’ made of gold, silver or jade with splendid jewels whereas common people wore ‘Binyeo’ made of carved wood or animal bones. This showed that ‘Binyeo’ was not only a hair ornament but a symbol of the wearer’s social status. During the Joseon Dynasty (the last Korean dynasty lasting 500 years), women also wore Binyeo in their daily life and special pieces for wedding ceremonies. ‘Binyeo’ were classified even further during this period – they would tell of the wearer’s age and the season in which they were being worn.

‘Binyeo’ were recognised as an art form in traditional society however they have fallen out of use (except in the movies) along with much of our ancestors’ heritage and this is lamentable. We need to preserve our ancestors’ traditional heritage – we have a duty to them as their descendants and to those who come after us. To keep this history alive, I have reinterpreted ‘Binyeo’ in my own way to combine the traditional with the modern.

I hope people who appreciate my ‘Binyeo Collection’ will read more about Korean traditions and also aim to be more conscious of ways in which they can bring back to life and share with others their ancestors’ traditions and art history.

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THRIFTING A £20 CHARITY SHOP OUTFIT

Image via Canva

Thomas Woods sets himself a challenge of forming a £20 outfit comprised of strictly charity shop finds.

As a society, we are now at a point where we must be aware of the environmental impact that our everyday actions and general consumption has on the world around us. The clothing industry is a central contributor to current environmental issues, with the fashion industry being the second largest polluter globally. With the seemingly constant growth of fast fashion, it is important to look elsewhere to find sustainable substitutes to big clothing polluters, and charity shops are exactly that. While it is often believed that charity shops are simply filled with poor-quality items, I am here to show you that they’re not.

Over the last week, I have put together an outfit composed of items that I purchased along a stretch of charity shops in North London (a hotspot for lots of second-hand clothing stores), all for just £20. I’ll provide each item with an overall product rating that considers the condition of the product, the comparative retail or online pricing, its price, and material quality.

QUICK TIP: For the best chance at discovering the top finds, visit your local charity shop as soon as they open, as well as throughout the day... they like to restock regularly!

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NEXT CROPPED SMART TROUSER- BLACK While finding big brands in charity shops is always an exciting discovery, I always feel that picking up an item that is brand new holds just as much meaning. This brand-new pair of Next cropped trousers were a nobrainer for me in the end, with the £5 price tag giving me the chance to spend my remaining budget on other items.

This purchase helped me envisage what kind of outfit I wanted to put together, with the trouser often being the central base of a good outfit for me.

I decided that I wanted a chic smartcasual outfit for a night out in London, and nothing says formal wear like black. The cropped fit provided the casual tone that I was looking for and its snug fit around the waist left me no excuse not to buy it. Despite this, one downside to the product is the overall quality of the material, as it was not 100% cotton and had a slightly rough texture. In saying this, this was not the fault of the charity shop. I found this item at All Aboard charity shop and I would thoroughly recommend making a visit to one of their branches, with there being several scattered over London.

Product condition: 5/5 Retail/online price: £35 Price: 5/5 Quality: 3/5 Overall rating: 4/5

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PRIMO CIRO CITTERIO MONOGRAM SHIRT- BLACK/WHITE

Again, this find wasn’t about discovering the most sought-after brand, but more so an example of how having a certain outfit or look in mind can open the gateway to more pieces that charity shops have to offer. Essentially, broaden your horizons and look that bit deeper; there are some treasures. This vintage Primo Ciro Citterio monogram shirt comes in this lovely black and white colourway, with the covered button detailing and flattened collar adding a retro 70s flair to the outfit that I didn’t know I needed.

Having done some online research, most of these shirts only go for £15-£20 in a used condition, which means the £5 price tag still got me a relatively decent bargain.

The most impressive part of this purchase was the quality of the shirt, with the roughened cotton-like touch to the material providing a soft and comfortable texture against the skin. Alongside this and its slightly oversized fit, the shirt was the perfect addition to the top half of my outfit as it provided quality, comfort, and it fitted perfectly into my desired aesthetic. I’ve always found that Cherry Lodge Cancer Trust have had some hidden gems, and this time was no different. The shirt and jacket selection is amazing!

Product condition: 5/5 Retail/online price: £15 Price: 5/5 Quality: 5/5 Overall rating: 5/5

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CONVERSE ALL STAR HI TRAINERS- BLACK Finding shoes in charity shops is one of the more challenging obstacles when thrifting, and this £20 challenge was no different.

Having just £10 left of my budget, I knew it would be difficult to get a shoe that matched my smart-casual ‘night out in London’ look. However, on one of my last days of looking, I came across a gem.

The Converse All Star High is an alltime favourite of mine, with the classic silhouette having survived the ages as it continues to maintain its popularity today.

Despite the shoe’s slightly used condition, it was nothing that some wipes and shoe cleaner couldn’t repair with the clean black colourway meaning that I could easily pair it with the rest of the outfit. The high-top look sat nicely with the cropped trouser and thus complimented the outfit’s dimensions nicely. A £9 spend on this pair was one of my better bargains, with the shoe retailing at £57 and reselling in used condition for £30-£40, meaning this pickup was the best value-for-money purchase I made throughout the challenge.

Cancer Research UK was the purchase point for this piece, with this big brand pick-up being a trend I often see at Cancer Research branches across London as they regularly provide customers with those premium treasures.

Outside of the challenge, I managed to pick up several other steals at affordable prices, highlighting just how many goodquality and sustainable clothes there are up for grabs. These included a vintage leather Harrington jacket for £20, a pair of black and white Nike Blazer Mids from 2013 for just £19.99, as well as a blue Dallas Cowboys hoodie for just £2.50.

Product condition: 3/5 Retail/online price: £30 Price: 5/5 Quality: 4/5 Overall rating: 4/5

My range of finds just goes to show that charity shops can cater to a whole array of demographics and styles, giving everybody the opportunity to shop sustainably and help out the environment little by little - all for an affordable price.

Visit your local branch today!

If you enjoyed this article, you can follow more of Thomas’ work on his Twitter @iamthomaswoods_

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HOUSE OF iKONS

A LA MODE

Photography by MJ Mitra @the_MJ_studio

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ATHEA COUTURE

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BAHAR YASIN STUDIOS

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EYE OF FASHION

HER FASHION

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Lindex 2-pack butterfly hair clips with glitter and skulls £2.99

STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli

Colorful Standard Merino wool beanieBurned orange £30.00

Colorful Standard Classic organic zip hoodBurned orange £70.00 Mint Velvet Dakota Print Midi Shirt Dress £129.00

Gap Toddler Halloween Bea Graphic T-Shirt £12.95

Monsoon Floral jacquard fringed jumper black £65.00

Erdem Beaded Hair Barrette Veil Tulle £390.00

Gap GapKids | Disney Mickey Mouse 100% Organic Cotton Halloween Interactive Graphic T-Shirt £19.95

Lindex Pyjamas with spiders and pumpkins £14.99

StellaMccartney Duck City Pumps £695.00

Alexander McQueen Pearl-like Skull Chain Drop Earring £320.00

Erdem Rachel Skirt Tulle £795.00

Lindex Sweatpants with brushed inside £12.99

Alexander McQueen Skull Cane £350.00

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Allbirds Men's Trail Runners SWT £128.00

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE OPPORTUNITIES Get your products in front of our readers!

GET A FEATURED LISTING IN OUR CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE Our Christmas gift guide will feature 25 products hand-picked for our readers – including yours. They love sustainable, unique, quirky, and fashionable products that make them stand out from the crowd.

AFFORDABLE COVERAGE Our guide will be free to all viewers in digital format as part of our November 27th issue (we’ve had over 700,000 views on Issuu), and will be part of our print issue as well as being promoted on social media and in our newsletter. You can get featured from as little as £10.

WE’RE TAKING BOOKINGS FROM NOW UNTIL WE SELL OUT! Choose from: Featured – your image, product name and description, and website link – £10 Premium – your image, product name and description and website link in a highlighted box in the guide, and shared on our social media – £15 Optimum – all the above, with your product highlight as one of our top three picks – £25

CONTACT US NOW TO BOOK YOUR SLOT Talk to Amber on amber@londonrunway.co.uk or visit our site for more info at londonrunway.co.uk/christmas21/

REBELLI US O

Model: Anastasia Bukina @irockferry Makeup Artist: Yulianna Yurenkova @jul.verona Photographer: Lyubov Belyavtseva @lyubovbelyavtseva

LONDON RUNWAY

Hannah Sosna

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Images via Hannah Sosna

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itwe n K

PREPPY I propose some preppy-style knits for those who love a more classic style and don't want to dare too much. I particularly like collared sweaters and cardigans. They are not easily found with particular patterns, but they are available in many colours. For example, I would pair an orange collared cardigan with dark blue jeans, Oxford shoes and a brown leather belt. To complete the outfit, I would choose a vintage maxi leather bag. If you are a student, this is an excellent outfit for a cool studying session in the library.

KNITTED TANK They appeared in spring in fantastic pastel colours, and now they're back to peek under coats. I'm talking about tank knits, which are excellent to combine with a slightly oversized shirt, cigarette trousers or jeans, and flat shoes or ankle boots. There are many colours, and to not look like an 80-year-old at Saturday night bingo, you should hate to choose bright colours and leave aside the classic diamond pattern vests.

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k ac

"Cool, cosy, conscious" is what I find myself saying to shop assistants when I enter the shops every autumn. I love sweaters, and every year I find myself buying new ones. As much as this is a whim, more than a necessity, I can't help but get lost in long online or live shopping sessions admiring and touching sweaters of all kinds. Of course, we all agree that a shaggy sweater is unsightly, but have you ever thought about how many knitwear styles exist? I don't know about you, but I love the fall season, the hot chocolate smell, the orange foliage, and finally, the knitwear. I have a real passion for sweaters, and I never regret expanding my fluffy collection. The versatility and comfort of sweaters are just what you need in the cold season.

is on b

COOL COSY CONSCIOUS

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LONDON RUNWAY Another classy outfit is a V-neck and slightly oversized sweater with a white shirt underneath to show the collar, cuffs and bottom. This is a simple outfit and leaves some space to creative and colourful choices. For example, I love this lime sweater and I would pair it with black skinny or flared jeans. Also, choose goldcoloured jewellery such as a slightly thick necklace and large earrings.

The V-neck and shirt combination is very classy, but it's the details that make the difference.

NONNA STYLE

ALL KNIT EVERYTHING

If many young people particularly love the preppy style, the next one is probably avoided by many. The nonna (meaning grandma in Italian) style is a tricky one. There is a very thin line between having a retro-flavoured outfit and looking old and sloppy. I love having grandma style outfits, however, I always use my vintage-looking treasures wisely, combining them with modern garments. Among my absolute favourites are cardigans with jewel buttons that can either look extremely refined or tacky, you choose. Try matching something similar to this blue Monsoon cardigan with a pair of blue jeans, sneakers with some fashion decoration and a maxi coat.

Or, for a romantic rock style, I would combine this Monsoon cardigan with a white Korean neck shirt to show only the shirt bottom and black leather skinny trousers.

To make the outfit more sophisticated, choose a clutch bag in the same shade as the sweater.

Finally, make a messy bun and embellish it with tiny rhinestone clips.

If you are a fashionable soul looking for some really cosy and cool outfits, try knitted sets. A two-piece black and knit suit is a great choice to approach an all-knitted outfit. From a distance, you will barely notice it is knitwear, and up-close when paired with the right accessories, it won't make you look underdressed. White chunky trainers in Alexander McQueen style and a mini crossbody bag in a nice bright colour will make you comfortable and stylish for a shopping session in the high street.

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The second knitted outfit is of course a dress. I particularly love the ones with fitted top and a circle skirt as they are very fashionable worn also with tights.

I suggest wearing loose knitted dresses with semi-sheer stockings not to look like a potato sack just wrapped up in some cosy garments.

LONDON RUNWAY PRINT-ASTIC

EFFORTLESS DRESSED DOWN

I’m not a particular lover of prints, but as far as sweaters are concerned, sometimes I like to vary and buy them with funny or showy patterns.

House of Sunny offers a fantastic sweater with a design inspired by the cosmos. The fake fur detail makes it perfect for smart casual evening occasions, and it perfectly fits over a little black dress.

Nothing is comfier than being wrapped in a warm and soft sweater on a cold autumn day. If you work from home or have nonformal commitments, wear leggings or skinny black jeans and a belted maxi cardigan. If you opt for a total black outfit, you'll be ok also for smart-casual occasions.

Just remember to pick particular accessories, perhaps colourful resin or enamel jewels in a pretty big size. Although your outfit will be very basic, you'll look incredibly fashionable, and no one will notice that you just want to stay comfy.

Another option I love is wearing a bright-coloured sweater over a pair of leather leggings. This is generally my go-to option for remote working days or causal strolls.

A quite showy and undoubtedly classic pattern is the Fair Isle-style pattern. In short, the traditional mountain style. If you plan to spend a cosy Christmas at home, this could be part of your outfit.

This Baukjen oatmeal option with blue, white, and red details is a classic variation that looks great with a white blouse and a pair of jeans. If, on the other hand, you love this pattern but are afraid of looking too old-fashioned, choose sweaters with this print in much brighter colours.

The inspirations for knitted outfits are genuinely countless, and if you love fashion, I think experimenting with sweaters is simple and fun. In addition, if you are a sustainability lover, you will also have a wide choice between conscious and sustainable labels, which fortunately this season have not skimped in proposing particular knitwear. Finally, I imagine some of you are knitting pros and will flaunt exquisite customised knitted accessories and sweaters. I'm a very slow knitter, and now I'll be back knitting my beanie, which I don't guarantee will be ready for the Autumn-Winter 2021/2022 season.

You can read more of Cicilia's articles on ciciliabrognoli.com

AKDC's Indian Summer at Notting Hill Photographer: Mrityunjoy (MJ) Mitra @the_MJ_studio Models: Keshä @kesharaii, Gairika Mathur @Gairika Mathur and Arunima Kumar @kumar.arunima

TULLEY'S

SHOCKTOBERFEST Photography by Ian Clark

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HOUSE OF iKONS

KHOSH HORRE

Photography by MJ Mitra @the_MJ_studio

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MODELS WARDROBE

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FASHIONS FINEST Photography by Fil Mazzarino

SHOKUSHU BOUTIQUE

SHARON SWEENEY PAGE 94

RADIQAL TAT

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KAFFA MOCKBILL

JANA SIMONE

ELISHA-QUARMAN

ASTRA PAGE 98

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AETER Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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AJOY SAHU Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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DR NOKI X ANDY MURPHY Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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For the Dress-up issue, Candice brings you affordable formal wear that stuns and captivates, all while showcasing the best of the signs!

March 21 - April 20 Reformation - Ingrid Dress Sophisticated and classy, this stunning Ingrid Dress by Reformation will turn all heads towards Aries when donned by this fiery sign.

April 21 - May 21 Musier Paris - Moon Dress Taurus, the reliable, grounded earth sign, will adore the Moon Dress by Musier Paris. This silver backless dress is form-fitting yet comfortable with an added bit of shine from the lurex fabric.

May 22- June 21

Cult Gaia - Gwnenyth Dress One-shouldered with a keyhole design, this 92% silk dress will effortlessly enhance the natural beauty of any Gemini, highlighting their creative and daring personalities.

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June 22- July 22 Beaulah London - Olena Sage and Pansy Sage Sleek and elegant, this suit combo perfectly represents the style qualities of this intuitive sign. The delicate sage colour further highlights their romantic, sensitive natures.

July 23- August 21 Cult Gaia - Maris Top and Devon Pant If you ask Leos to dress up, they will always go above and beyond! Wearing “the most luxurious metallic gold satin”, this charismatic sign will turn heads in this dramatic top and bottom set.

August 22- September 23 Reformation - Karen Dress This is one Karen that everybody loves!

Perfect for any occasion, this classic moss green wrap dress will drape beautifully on the sophisticated Virgo.

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September 24- October 23 Lirika Matoshi - Strawberry Midi Dress With an eye for beauty, Libra will fall in love with this Strawberry Midi Dress. The glittery strawberries, puff sleeves, and tieup detailing adds to their pulling charm.

October 24- November 22 Guardi - Lucille Pleated Midi Dress The classic little black dress but with a Scorpio aesthetic! The handcrafted pleats and high collar provide a chic look for this enigmatic sign.

November 23- December 22 Tamga Designs - Fiona Maxi Dress The three tiered voluminous skirting, elasticised waistband, and ruffles provide a whimsical yet comfortable fit for this wanderlust sign.

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December 23- January 20 Whimsy + Row - Lola Wrap Dress “The Lola dress is what dreams are made of.” For the constantly working Capricorn, this dress will sweep them away for a momentary escape from their responsibilities.

January 21 - February 19 House of Sunny - Coral Dress This button-down long line dress from House of Sunny is both quirky and statement-making, perfect for the fashionable Aquarius!

February 20 - March 20 Rare + Fair - The Chermarn Mini Dress in Sky Blue 100% pure mulberry silk, this cute floral dress design is handmade in Thailand by artisans using the traditional Ikat weaving method. Both creatively and consciously made, Pisceans will appreciate the thoughtful and graceful design.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers

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LONDON REPRESENTS Photography by Fil Mazzarino

AGAIN AND AGAIN

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AIKER EMOIOKHA

GIRL SCOUT SHOES PAGE 109

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KAREN GOLD

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LAUTOKA

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LETICIA CREDIDIO PAGE 113

PETER TWISS

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RUA LUJA

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SELINA

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TWISTED PERSONA

LONDON RUNWAY ANTHOLOGY 2020 LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/BOOK

WHAT WOULD MCQUEEN DO? Suhani Lotlikar remembers the legendary designer Alexander McQueen.

Born in a family of humble backgrounds, Lee Alexander McQueen - famously known as Alexander McQueen - is a name that has been tattooed on the skin of the fashion industry. Just at the age of 16, he dropped out of school and found work at a men’s made-to-measure suit store in London’s Mayfair district. This inception in his career took him from tailor store to theatre costume design which majorly influenced his later work.

The designer’s first spotlight moment happened at the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design where he presented his M.A. collection, Jack the Ripper. The collection is known to have featured a lock of McQueen’s own hair. The entire collection was bought by the renowned stylist Isabella Blow who later became a long-term friend of the designer.

She stood by McQueen in his initial days of struggle during which he established his own brand of womenswear. The hardship faced by Lee in those days has become the brick and mortar of the brand today.

The news of McQueen’s passing presented regret and sorrow for many. The originality and valour in his work made me think about what McQueen would do while studying every show that came after.

images via Canva and Wikimedia Commons

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Looking back into the archives of the designer’s runway shows; the infamous bumster trousers, first introduced in the Spring/Summer 1995 collection would have carried a similar reputation with Gen Z. His unusual concepts taking a walk in front of today’s audience would have forced them to look beyond their screen. Fashion students would have lined up outside trying to sneak into his shows for a glimpse just as the sneakerheads line up for a drop at Supreme.

McQueen’s work was prominently inspired by his study of fashion history and ability to turn it upside down.

Another one of his iconic collections, rather a heavily-criticised one - the Autumn/Winter 2009 Horn of Plenty presented models wearing extreme overdrawn red and black lips and outfits duct-taped with metal scraps.

Considering the current trend of fuller and overlined lips, McQueen’s visualisation deemed as grotesque was way ahead of his time. His models walked the runway of this showcase leaving behind the need to be cinched by their waists or have a lavish hairdo.

It would have portrayed a hint of satire on the beauty trends celebrated today.

The concept development behind every collection presented by him painted a picture of his ideas in their literal glory. What followed was no less than the chaotic representation through art with The Hunger Spring/Summer 1996 collection and Dante - Autumn/Winter 1996 collection. This paved the way to international fame and acquired him the British Designer of the Year award. He also worked with music artists such as Björk and David Bowie during this period. In the same year, Lee was appointed head designer at the French luxury house of Givenchy succeeding John Galliano. His first collection where he tried to walk the thin line between his creative outtake and the brand’s aesthetic was unsuccessful. McQueen himself stated that the collection was ‘crap’ and that his creativity was constrained at the job.

This translated into the comeback collection of It’s a Jungle Out There Autumn/Winter 1997. Lee found relatability between his life as a designer and that of a gazelle in a documentary he had watched. The divide between today’s streetwear

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and luxury garments would have found a middle with the denim and leather frock-coats presented in this collection.

From Nihilism to Neptune, the world of fashion witnessed an unconventional and controversial turn with McQueen.

A reporter from the New York Times expressed her views about this comeback as ‘He isn't just part of the London scene, he is the scene.’ Rightly said, ‘No. 13’ once again showcased the designer’s capacities to the world. The collection featured two iconic showstopping moments. The double amputee Aimee Mullins graced the runway in a pair of intricately handcarved prosthetic legs. And who doesn’t remember Shalom Harlow in a white belted dress being spray painted by two robotic arms in yellow and black!

LONDON RUNWAY This dive into the brand’s runway archives would not be complete without a rerun of Voss - the Spring/Summer 2001 collection. The models that walked down the harshly-lit, glass walled runway were adorned with bandages on their heads. This fashion moment was extremely outlandish and kitsch. It showcased Lee’s ability of storytelling through excellent tailoring and production. The classic silhouettes presented at the show remain as the brand’s identity event today.

“We're not talking about models' personal feelings here, we're talking about mine. Models are there to showcase what I'm about, nothing else. It's nothing to do with misogyny, it's all about the way I'm feeling about my life,” he said.

In 2001, McQueen showcased his last collection in London before moving to Paris. The Autumn show featured a merry-go-round with models wearing clown-like makeup dragging a golden skeleton. The years that followed created many more such iconic fashion moments for the brand. McQueen’s last collection unofficially titled ‘Angels and Demons’ had 16 pieces that were only 80 percent finished. Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen’s longterm assistant, succeeded the designer to keep the brand going.

The designer's legacy lives on in the

inspiration boards of fashion students and in the archives of the luxury house. But the iconic vision behind the runway presentations has left through the doors.

In this day and age where conversations are fuelled with topics of cultural appreciation and appropriation, political correctness, climate change and wildfires, even a global pandemic; McQueen’s cutting-edge interpretations would have helped reimagine and redefine fashion. He was criticised for being a misogynist whereas his art was focused on creating clothes for

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women who would be feared. The brilliance in his vision of fashion and art would have created many more blinding moments making us all question the meaning and purpose of fashion. His runway shows were representative, diverse and inclusive even back in the 90s. His ability to create and showcase without the fear of damaging the brand would have made him an excellent pioneer in today’s fashion industry. He was the change before the change.

You can read more of Suhani’s work on suhani17.wordpress.com and on Instagram by following @suhani_lotlikar

Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

&

"The doll from Squid Games" - Suhani Lotlikar, writer

"Either an avocado or some kind of chestburster baby, to take advantage of my huge baby bump - depending on how much effort I can be bothered to put in by that point!"

- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

"PRESIDENT LOKI"

- Jonhoi Burnett, model

"I've always wanted to be a ninja or a spy growing up, but I never got around to being one even as a costume. I think this year is going to be it!"

“A FLAPPER” -Sara Ehab

-Candice Wu, editorial assistant

I want to be a pony.

-Allison

"I would like to dress like an Agent, inspired from James Bond."

- Karishma Alreja, Designer

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

NEXT: THE WINTER ISSUE THE DRESS-UP ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FIL MAZZARINO BACKSTAGE AT BORA AKSU