London Runway Issue 70 - The Love Issue by London Runway

LONDON RUNWAY 2021 COVERS . LRSA WINNERS AND INTERVIEWS . BEING A WOMAN IN THE UK

HOUSE OF IKONS . JUSTICE IN FASHION . NATIONAL ASIAN WEDDING SHOW . LUCIAN BUIUM

ISSUE 70 27TH JANUARY 2022

THE LOVE ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Ruth Croft Advertising enquiries - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Thomas Woods, AIDA Shoreditch, ELB handmade, Easypeasysustainability, UpCircle Beauty, Beasdontoastt, Unpackaged, Cristina Maar, Belén Cadavieco, Marta Torres, Patricia Siré, Erika Moreno, Almudena Garcia, Eksept, Silke Engbrenghof, Priscilla Lennartz, Vincent Moerman, Nathalie Van De Klashorst (NvdK Couture), Willem Vanderstelt, Ozoda Muminova, Nelli Kabir, Gulya, Valerie Tchikhiaeva, Sophie Vijayasurej, Rebecca Armstrong, Marcos Perez, Anna Rychilkova, Lucinda Joya, Maria, Katya Semenova, Keiichi Ando, Ursula, Darya Korobkova, Veronika K, Keiichi Ando, Alina Croitoru, Lucian Buium, Omar Shaker, Ania Pobidel, The Purple Collection, Vivienne Monique, Ram Eagle, Hannah Whittaker, Diego Flores, Sivan Cole, Boyka Georgieva, Elizabeth Depta, Elena Cabrero, Sara Uribe, Paula Burbat, Daniel Claudin, Camille Rochel, Boyka Georgieva, Clowe Designs, Felipe Garcia Pérez, Sarah Hollebon, Tia Lian, House of iKons, Ekaterina Aleshina, Lil Safonova, Victoria Kurdyumova, Lady Daze Fine Jewelry Special thanks to Lucian Buium, Willem Vanderstelt, Patricia Siré, ELB handmade, Easypeasysustainability, UpCircle Beauty, and Beasdontoastt

Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Staff Graphic Designer Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene

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CONTENTS

41 VISUALS

78 WORDS

House of iKons Kid's Fashion

London Runway Sustainability Awards Winners

Justice in Fashion

10 Things I Love About Me (Editorial)

Interviews: LRSA Winners

How to Feel Better About Yourself in 2022

LR 2021 Covers

New Faces

Fashion Never Sleeps

Portfolio Piece

New Business: The Purple Collection

...a Different Kind of Bride (Cover Editorial)

Book Club: Anxious People by Fredrik Backman

National Wedding Show

Interview: Sarah Hollebon and Tia Lian

Style (Conscious) Guide: Romantic Dinner

64 Your Style Horoscope

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Pop Sugar by Vivienne Monique

The Sad Reality of Being a Woman in Modern-Day UK

119

Glamskin (Editorial)

78 The Big Question

122

National Asian Wedding Show

Lil Safanova (Editorial)

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s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Happy New Year! Can you believe it is already the end of January 2022? It feels like the holidays just came and went. We hope you all enjoyed either time with your family or a much-needed break from the hustle and bustle of the world. We at London Runway made an amazing effort to finish the Silver Issue (issue 69) early so that you all could enjoy the release on our usual release date, so major applause to the team and our contributors and collaborators! We hope you enjoyed the read during the holidays or after it. Refreshed and ready to tackle the new year, this issue includes so many exciting features and galleries from last year as well as some juicy events and editorials. We have the National Asian Wedding Show, House of iKons Kids Fashion Part 2, and more!

Featuring Lucian Buium’s '…a different kind of bride' editorial on our cover, you can see a different take on wedding attire and looks. Patricia Siré’s 10 Things I Love About Me editorial exudes selflove, something we definitely need to take into the New Year and consistently practice, especially with the years we have had. You can also spot a few New Faces, such as Silke and 2 others. Lots and lots of content to look through and start the new year off right! In this issue, The London Runway Sustainability Awards results are also revealed! Thank you to all who nominated, voted, and participated, and a big congratulations to the winners! You’ll be able to see who won in the following article and read some interviews we were able to do with some of the winning brands. The other nominees should also be highlighted and praised as their efforts towards an

eco-friendly industry are just as amazing! If you’re looking to start your own business or revamp your sustainability efforts, take a look at these star brands and persons for some guidance or inspiration. As it was last year, this year was another successful run of the event, so we do plan to bring it back again next year! Hoping for a better year, we’re excited to showcase the revitalising fashion scene of London and the UK as things start to, hopefully, safely normalise and reopen. However, the virtual runways with us being able to glam up in our jammies weren’t half bad either! Nevertheless, with a year of upcoming events and opportunities, stay tuned for more exciting content and coverage!

Warmly, Candice Wu

CANDICE WU

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LONDON RUNWAY

LONDON RUNWAY SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS

THE WINNERS ANNOUNCED! Here are your winners for the 2021 London Runway Sustainability Awards! Echoing our announcements and posts, thank you to all those who have voted and participated, and we hope you enjoyed the event. We loved connecting and learning about these new brands, persons, and initiatives grounding their ethos in sustainability, ethicality, and an all-around better Earth. You can read further into the magazine to read some interviews with these fantastic winners, and we’ll see you again at the end of this year for the next one!

BEST SUSTAINABLE FASHION DESIGNER The designer that devotes themselves and their work to environmentally friendly practices and methods

ELB HANDMADE @ELB_HANDMADE WWW.ELBHANDMADE.COM

BEST SUSTAINABLE ACCESSORIES BRAND Sustainable, ethical accessories brand utilising recycled eco-friendly material or waste-free practices.

BEADSONTOASTT @BEADSONTOASTT WWW.ETSY.COM/UK/SHOP/BEADSONTOASTT

All images via respective websites or instagram

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LONDON RUNWAY BEST CRUELTY-FREE AND SUSTAINABLE MAKEUP BRAND A cruelty-free and ethical makeup brand good for the planet and your skin.

UPCIRCLE BEAUTY @UPCIRCLEBEAUTY WWW.UPCIRCLEBEAUTY.COM

BEST SUSTAINABLE STORE The store that has been at the forefront of sustainable, ethical fashion or production with innovative concepts and experiences.

AIDA SHOREDITCH @AIDASHOREDITCH WWW.AIDASHOREDITCH.CO.UK

BEST SUSTAINABLE INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR An individual that has promoted and encouraged a more eco-friendly way of life with a substantial social media presence.

EASYPEASYSUSTAINABILITY (FARIHAH CHOUDHURY) @EASYPEASYSUSTAINABILITY WWW.FARIHAHCHOUDHURY.COM

BIGGEST SUSTAINABLE BREAKTHROUGH A recent policy, change, or reform that has paved the ways for ecological change and positivity.

UNPACKAGED @UNPACKAGED WWW.BEUNPACKAGED.COM

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LONDON RUNWAY

LRSA WINNER'S INTERVIEW Hear from some of your 2021 LRSA winners on their sustainability and brand ethos with the exclusive interviews below! Their store sites or social media are listed above or in image credits.

BEST SUSTAINABLE FASHION DESIGNER: ELB HANDMADE What’s the story behind your brand? The story behind ELB is a pretty simple one really— I wanted delicate, lacey, and comfortable underwear and couldn’t find it in the shops so set to work making my own. Once I’d made a few sets for myself and perfected my pattern, I really thought I might be onto something special. 8 years later and here we are. Although it may have started out as a way of filling a gap in my own wardrobe, these days I’m all about getting everyone into a pair of undies that make them feel unstoppable.

Not only is it important to me to use sustainable materials in my production and packaging but to also make a product that will last. I still wear the very first set I made 8 years ago today. What can your customers expect from you? Our lovely customers can expect well made, comfortable underwear not only made to last but made to make you feel amazing. Going forward they can expect to see more deadstock and recycled fabrics and some exciting new launches through the year. Finally, any words for your voters?

A huge thank you! Like many small businesses I wouldn’t be able to do this incredible job without the support of my little community which I am very grateful for.

BEST SUSTAINABLE ACCESSORIES BRAND: BEADSONTOASTT What’s the story behind your brand? I started beadsontoastt in my final month of studying psychology at University, which was great as I had something to focus on other than revision! I have wanted to start a jewellery business since I was a child, and when I look back at old notebooks, I find it funny that my “in 10 years time I want to…” is now my reality.

What could be more important than looking after the planet? Our clothes, in particular our underwear, certainly don’t need to be causing excess waste or damage, so I’m always looking for ways to include even more sustainable materials across all aspects of my business— from packaging to fabric choices, even recycling scraps!

I wanted to build a brand that was affordable and sustainable, giving people the option of buying guilt-free products at a good price. I, therefore, started going on charity shop runs to buy old pieces of jewellery and taking them apart to upcycle, mixing them with new beads I had bought from small businesses to create my own designs.My main focus of this whole venture was to support other small businesses whilst creating my own brand, and I, therefore, have done this wherever possible. Even my logo is done by my lovely artist friend (@leahclementsart on Instagram).

@ELB_Handmade

@Beadsontoastt

Why is sustainability important to you?

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LONDON RUNWAY

I started learning about lots of different aspects of sustainability, including the impact of the food and fashion industries. I've always tried to create helpful, solutionsbased content that centres on issues rather than myself.

Why is sustainability important to you? I think sustainability is more important now than it has ever been. So many big brands make products only intended to last a few wears before being binned in favour of a new micro-trend. When combining this with poor working conditions, underpaid workers, excessive plastic packaging, and waste, the whole industry is becoming completely unsustainable and very damaging to everyone involved. I aim to pursue my business in a much more ethical manner, upcycling beads, using recyclable packaging, and making products as long-lasting as possible in an attempt to combat the idea that accessories are a wear-once and then discarded item. If a product ever does need repairing, I always do this free of charge, demonstrating the idea that accessories are not one-off wears and can be repaired instead of replaced with new items, when needed. What can your customers expect from you? My customers can expect to receive ethical, high-quality products which have all been designed, made and posted out by me! I always aim to give the best quality service possible and absolutely love working with customers to make their visions into custom items. I hope to encourage people to shop small and to realise how each order makes a small business owner's day!

BEST SUSTAINABLE INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR: EASYPEASYSUSTAINABILITY

(FARIHAH CHOUDHURY) What's the story behind your switch to sustainability and building your social media presence? This was never intentional! When I was an undergraduate student, I did a module on global change and thought to myself that I really needed to start living more sustainably. I wanted to share my journey of making sustainable swaps— hence the birth of @easypeasysustainability on Instagram. I soon realised sustainability was more than just zero plastic and zero waste and more about system change and holding corporations and governments to account.

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I've never had the ambition to grow or become an influencer, so all of the growth has been organic. I've really valued the learning I've got from the community as a whole. A couple of years ago, I started focusing quite strongly on fashion as it's a really interesting and fun space in which to promote and visualise better, fairer systems that are kinder to people and the planet. Why is sustainability important to you? Climate Change is the biggest threat to us as global citizens. It was an urgent issue 50 years ago. I want to do everything in my power to make this a fairer, greener world and help people to do the same.

LONDON RUNWAY

BEST CRUELTY-FREE AND SUSTAINABLE MAKEUP BRAND: UPCIRCLE BEAUTY @UpCircle Beauty

@EasyPeasySustainability

Climate change is linked to unfettered capitalism and colonialism, increasing poverty and inequalities, and all the other issues we have in the world - we must rebuild a better world where every living thing can thrive and is for everyone. What can your followers expect from you? Helpful tips on both individual and system-targeted sustainable change. Climate optimism but also realism and honesty. Unfiltered and organic content that centres on issues and solutions rather than my face.

What’s the story behind your brand? Every UpCircle product is made from a core ingredient that would otherwise have been discarded. It all started just over 6 years ago. My brother William (co-founder) asked his local coffee shop what they did with their waste coffee and was shocked to hear that they were producing so much that they had to pay the council to have it removed and disposed of in landfill sites. He decided it was a great starting point for a business idea but wasn’t sure what that idea was – that’s where I came in.

Finally, is there anything you would like to say to all those who voted for you?

Throughout my teenage years, I wanted to be a makeup artist and always had a keen interest in beauty and skincare. I knew that coffee had loads of great skincare benefits, so… lightbulb moment! Why not repurpose the coffee into sustainable circular skincare products?

Thank you so much for helping me spread the word about @easypeasysustainability. You can continue to find free tips and information on my Instagram page as well as my website, farihahchoudhury.com!

UpCircle first launched back in 2016 (as Optiat) with the Coffee Body Scrubs, which is still available today. We began our journey collecting coffee grounds from one coffee shop, and we now collect from 100 coffee houses across London.

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Our list is always growing! Fast forward six years and we have an extensive range of skincare products, from our multi-award-winning Face Serum to our newly launched Night Cream. Check out some of our latest repurposing stats: 1. Over 400 tonnes of used Arabica coffee grounds diverted from landfill and transformed into our body and face scrubs 2. Coffee Oil equivalent to 125 tonnes of used coffee grounds extracted and used in our face serum 3. 375kg of brewed chai spices infused into our natural & organic soap bars 4. The residual water of 20,000 mandarin oranges upcycled into our Toner in the first three months of sale 5. Each batch of eye cream uses the extract of the leftover bark from approximately 1 red maple tree 6. Our body cream rescued approximately 900,000 date seeds from being discarded in the first three months of sale

Why is sustainability important to you? The beauty industry is still a major contributor to the serious issue that we have created on our planet with regard to plastic. Billions of units of packaging are produced every year by the global cosmetics industry, bulked out by the use of complex lids, multi-layered boxes, and cellophane, much of which is superfluous, non-recyclable, and ends up in our landfills and oceans. We need to make big changes in this

LONDON RUNWAY industry to combat this, and there is a lot of work to be done. It is possible though. The packaging across our range is 99% plasticfree, and we offer plastic-free refill options for the 1%. Aside from our actual products, our marketing materials are made from paper that’s made from recycled coffee cups and we only use paper tape which has been made from recycled fibres.

industry to see that being less wasteful is possible - without compromising on quality. The circular element to UpCircle is what makes journalists write about us, retailers stock us, and customers try us. In the past year, we have expanded our repurposed ingredients portfolio, to twelve byproducts - from all different industries!

Last year, we even launched our very own ‘Return, Refill, Reuse’ scheme where customers can send back their packaging for 20% off and we refill and send the product back to them. As a brand designed entirely around circular economy principles and extending the life of by-product ingredients, it was a no-brainer for us to take the same approach with our packaging.

We think the way forward for skincare is by-product beauty— in other words, embracing the circular economy. The world has finite resources, and at the minute, we are depleting them at a scary rate. So, if you ask me, businesses that extend the lifecycle of things that are already in circulation or find ways to reimagine something that was previously seen as being at the end of its service life are the future!

When it comes to the sustainability of our products there is no shortage of ingredients that need to be rescued. For example, in the UK we send 500,000 tonnes of coffee waste to landfills per year, where it rots to produce methane. Every day, we’re contacted by coffee shops all over the country asking if we can collect their grounds. The recent expansion of our repurposed ingredients portfolio has allowed us to upcycle ingredients from different industries. It all started with London cafes (coffee), but now, we’re working with the wood industry (maple bark), olive oil industry (olive stones), flower industry (chamomile stems), and more! We’re minimising waste across all industries and transforming people’s perception of “leftovers” by seeing the value in things that already exist. The proof is that we now have people coming to us asking “what can you do with this?” We are the only brand to scale up repurposing ingredients into skincare formulations. There was opposition to our idea at the start, but we’ve proven it works! We hope our success will inspire the

What can your customers expect from you?

The circular movement is still in its infancy but growing fast. It is such an exciting space to be operating in. We feel so lucky to be working with and partnering with such inspiring and forward-thinking people. Think: ‘it is only waste, once it is wasted’. Once we stop seeing things as waste but rather as resources, the status quo will change quickly. We want sustainable products to be available to all, and this was always the goal of Will and me when we launched the brand aged 25 and 22 making products we would buy ourselves. Price point shouldn’t be a barrier to planet-friendly purchasing. Ethical, sustainable, and fairtrade ingredients cost more, but we’re committed to remaining a brand accessible for all. That’s why we’ve secured listings with the likes of Sainsbury’s and Holland & Barrett, in addition to US retail giants like Wholefoods and Credo. As a female-led business with a predominantly female team, we understand what “skincare for everyone” means. We’re body positive, gender-neutral, represent all ages, and encourage diversity in all forms. We use real customers in our imagery. I also speak on female empowerment and mentor young girls on kick-

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starting their own businesses. What drives us long term, now that we’ve made a name for ourselves as the skincare brand bringing the circular economy to the beauty industry, is that we have businesses and individuals coming to us with their leftover natural ingredients asking if we can cook up a circular skincare solution. “I make X product, which leaves behind Y as a byproduct. Is there anything you can do with that?” We’re always ready to take on the challenge! Our product launches for this year include an ocean-friendly SPF, a Lip Balm, and a Hand Cream— all set to launch in 2022. The long-term objective for us is to push boundaries with the byproducts we use and prove that with UpCircle you no longer have to choose between doing the right thing and getting the best results. Yes, every UpCircle product is sustainable, but every product also carries a premium formulation and transformative results. Finally, is there anything you’d like to say to all those who voted for you? I think it is SO important to show that it is not always a smooth road and that we all have failures along the way. It’s so easy to look at a brand or person’s Instagram feed and assume that everything is perfect, but that is not reality! Things go wrong all the time and that’s not something to feel bad about, it’s inevitable— it’s all about how you deal with it and move forward. A huge thank you to all of those who voted for UpCircle, we couldn’t have done it without you!

LONDON RUNWAY

HOUSE OF iKONS KID'S FASHION Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

KORN TAYLOR

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LOVE COLLECTION

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LONDON RUNWAY

JUSTICE IN FASHION Photography by Fil Mazzarino

AFROBOHO

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AMIRA-JEANS AND RE-CONSIDERED

BAV TAILOR

INSERT SELF HERE

JOY BY OSULA

LETICIA CREDIDIO

LORA GENE

LUCIANA SOUL

OCEAN SWAY

TOMIWA NICKI

10 Things I love About Me Photographer/Creative Director: Cristina Maar; @crisucda Assistant: Belén Cadavieco; @becave__ Model: Marta Torres @Agencia River; @itsmartts Wardrobe Stylist: Patricia Siré, @patriciasire Makeup Artists: Erika Moreno; @morenomakeup Almudena Garcia; @almugarciamakeup

Marta wears: Beige Cardigan – María Lafuente for Es Fascinante @marialafuentefashion @esfascinante

Marta wears: Beige Cardigan – María Lafuente for Es Fascinante @marialafuentefashion @esfascinante Quant Amnesia Pants – Wear it be for Es Fascinante @wearitbe @esfascinante Nuria Pale Pink Sun Glasses – Nina Mur for Es Fascinante @nina_mur_eyewear @esfascinante Olivia Crema Boots – Culto 1105 for Es Fascinante @byculto @esfascinante Mini Donut Green Earrings – Alexah for No solo una idea @alexahofficial @nosolounaidea

Marta wears: In Nubibus Dress – Ángela Pedregal @angelapedregal Big Lucy Pink Earring and Icon Ring Necklace – Jane Bardot @janebardotofficial Flor de Azúcar Ring – Virago Barcelona @viragobarcelona Carmen Rouge Sandals – Lemon Rouge @lemonrougebrand

Marta wears: Remix Jumper 03 Choco – Victoria Prada for Es Fascinante @victoriapradacollection @esfascinante Grand Bahama Skirt Soft Blue – Virago Barcelona @viragobarcelona Obsession Earring and Remix Necklace – Jane Bardot @janebardotofficial Dos Aguas and Rincón del Mar Rings – Virago Barcelona @viragobarcelona

Marta wears: Pink Kimono and Urban Sport Set – BB Collection for Loi Agency @bbacollection @loi_agency Sleep Mask – Stylist Wardrobe

Marta wears: Beige Cardigan – María Lafuente for Es Fascinante @marialafuentefashion @esfascinante Quant Amnesia Pants – Wear it be for Es Fascinante @wearitbe @esfascinante Nuria Pale Pink Sun Glasses – Nina Mur for Es Fascinante @nina_mur_eyewear @esfascinante Mini Donut Green Earrings – Alexah for No solo una idea @alexahofficial @nosolounaidea

Marta wears: Orange Snake Crop Top - Curuba for Loi Agency @curuba___ @loi_agency Pearl Jacket and Wrap skirt – Cherry Massia for TeMeCé Showroom @cherrymassia @temece_showroom Mini Donut Nude Earrings – Alexah for No solo una idea @alexahofficial @nosolounaidea Vintage Boots – Magpie Vintage @magpievintageclothes Sun Glasses – Stylist Wardrobe

Marta wears: Cruella Jumpsuit – Wear it be for Es Fascinante @wearitbe @esfascinante Olivia Crema Boots – Culto 1105 for Es Fascinante @byculto @esfascinante Obsession Earring and Ring – Jane Bardot @janebardotofficial

Marta wears: Varenna Jacket, Top and Pants – Byleclair for No solo una idea @byleclair @nosolounaidea Big Lucy Pink Earring – Jane Bardot @janebardotofficial Vivien Green Coco Boots – Culto 1105 for Es Fascinante @byculto @esfascinante

HOW TO FEEL BETTER ABOUT YOURSELF IN 2022 Ruth explores how you can feel better about yourself this year, both mentally and physically, without the cliché of unattainable resolutions. Every January feels the same. The sparkling jewels that light our streets are being untethered from buildings, the nights are colder and darker than ever before, and the Christmas magic is over for another year. Even the excitement of New Year’s Eve is done, the champagne has been poured, the kisses on the cheeks at midnight have faded. And really, what is there to look forward to now? The next holiday is Valentine’s day, and that’s not something that everyone enjoys. The resolutions made earlier in the month have not been thought about since then, and even if you were to take up running before work, it’s dark outside until nine am, and it’s most likely raining. There’s something heavy in the air; the sense of new beginnings that you’re not quite ready for, of which you don’t even know where to start.

It’s a time of expectations, to write down what you want to achieve this year, and where you want to be when you read it back in twelve months’ time. But, when the year starts with January, which, let’s be honest, isn’t really anyone’s favourite month; we need to be giving ourselves a break. Not the Christmas kind of break where you watch movies all day and only eat chocolate. No, this is a time where we can start to make better choices for ourselves, to take a deep breath, and clear our minds. To make room for rejuvenation and reflection, and begin the little, everyday things that will help us feel so much better about ourselves throughout the entire year. Hyrdation This first tip is probably the most predictable one, but nevertheless it is important. It is, of course, to drink more water. You will have heard the benefits of hydration before, so there is no real reason to re-establish the scientific details. But drinking at least two litres of

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water a day is so necessary. Not only does it make you look better - brighter eyes, radiant skin, and shinier hair - it has a massive effect on improving concentration, exercise performance, and the immune system, as well as allowing you to have a more fulfilling night’s sleep. It is the very first step to making yourself feel better, and it’s so easy that you don’t have an excuse not to do it. If you’re not too keen on the taste of water, you can add lemon, mint, or fresh berries for flavour. Meditation Another thing that is beneficial for our mental and physical wellbeing is meditation. It is universally regarded as a way to reduce stress, as well as allowing ourselves to focus on the present, and reduce negative emotions. Modern society is an environment based on immediacy and distractions, and it can be difficult to break out of the fast-paced thought process. We are told that the only way to succeed is to work as hard as possible, and to keep burning ourselves out in the pursue of ambition.

However, this understandably is not very beneficial for our health. Meditation has been proven to thicken the pre-frontal cortex, which oversees higher order brain function, resulting in increased awareness and more intricate decision making. It also contributes to the sense of contented well-being. A study revealed that eight weeks of meditation and similar mindful-based therapies resulted in improved mental health, especially anxiety, due to meditation being attached to the regulation of self-referential and cognitive processes in the mind. Just a few minutes a day of meditation can be valuable, even if it’s just taking a moment to sit and focus on your breathing. Journaling The last twenty months of the pandemic have been incredibly hard for everyone to deal with. When in lockdown, it was nearly impossible to really talk to anyone, due to the limited communication of social and digital media. Somehow, a phone call or a Facetime just wasn’t the same as talking to someone in person. But, with everything happening and people grieving the loss of their loved ones, we still needed a place to empty our thoughts. This is why it is so important to write a journal. Even now, when we can see people in real life, there are some things that we don’t wish to share. To have a safe space where you can write down every single thing you feel,

even if it doesn’t make sense, is so imperative to understanding ourselves better. Write down every emotion you feel, not just when you’re enjoying yourself. Write when you’re angry, when you’re sobbing your heart out, just get it onto the page. Dress-up for YOU Another way to feel good about ourselves all year is to dress the right way for our bodies. This is something that takes a while to get used to, especially as the beauty industry relies on society not really liking themselves, so that they can provide us with tricks to relieve that burden. But real beauty, no matter who you are or what you look like, comes from confidence. Being kind to yourself. Choosing clothes that flatter your figure, and make you feel incredible every time you wear them. There is no point staring at those size 10 jeans that you haven’t worn in years, wishing that you’d fit back into them. So instead, focus on the inclusivity that the fashion industry currently provides, and wear whatever makes you feel the most beautiful. Overall Self-Care The last tip is self-care. This is another one that should be a necessity in all of our lives, however, most people rarely take the time out to properly look after themselves. I’m not talking about the basics of drinking that extra glass of water or taking a shower, even when

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you can’t be bothered, and eating something other than Nutella straight from the jar. I mean proper, rejuvenating self-care. The kind that takes care of your mind, as well as your body. Having a long bath full of bubbles, reading a book, putting on a face mask, deep conditioning your hair, watching your favourite movie, going for long walks, baking a cake, moisturising you entire body, practising yoga, blasting your music really loudly and dancing, sleeping in till late on the weekends. Even adding a spoon of sugar in your morning tea can be an act of self-care. It’s looking after yourself and prioritising yourself. It’s doing what makes you feel good, what calms your mind, what makes you feel truly content. And doing a little bit every single day can make you feel so much more balanced and revitalised. Of course, how we take care of ourselves is a completely individual experience, and there is so much more that we can be doing to make sure that we feel content throughout the entire year. It is not a case of extremism. We don’t have to completely change our lives. But we can look after ourselves better by making little, everyday choices. And really, that is the best resolution of all.

You can read more of Ruth’s work on Instagram by following @thewriterruth.

Images via Pexels and Canva

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: SILKE Name: Silke Engbrenghof Age: 18 Location: Netherlands Agency: Honnete models How long have you been modelling for? 4 years ago I was scouted at an Ariana Grande concert in Amsterdam. Where are you from originally? Netherlands - Weert

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? 5 years ago I was selected for a volleyball talent program. Then, I had to make the choice between volleyball and modelling. I chose modelling. What would surprise people to know about you? I really like animals and I have two really cute rabbits and they are called Chanel and Gucci. What are your modelling ambitions? I would really love to walk for Versace, preferably in the trendy high platform heels. That would be a dream come true.

Fashion Designer: Eksept @eksept_ Female Model: Silke Engbrenghof @Honnete Models @silkeengbrenghof Makeup Artist: Priscilla Lennartz @tourmaline.makeupartist www.tourmaline-muah.nl Fashion Designer: Vincent Moerman @vmoermanfashion Fashion Designer: Nathalie Van De Klashorst - NvdK Couture @nvdkcouture Photographer: Willem Vanderstelt @wimstelt_photography www.wimvanderstelt.com

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: NELLI Name: Nelli Kabir @nelkaelle Age: 36 Location: Lebanon Agency: Freelance

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? My talent came to creativity, I love art, design, and handmade.

How long have you been modelling for? Been a model since I was 13 years old, I am related to the fashion world.

What would surprise people to know about you? I have a degree in Fashion Design and Styling. I have passion to art direct photoshoots, to style my looks and be creative on my Instagram page.

Where are you from originally? Originally from Uzbekistan

What are your modelling ambitions? My ambitions is to create in future my own brand and being always creative and helpful for people.

Photographer: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon Model: Nelli Kabir @nelkaelle Makeup Artist: Gulya @gulya-style88

Dress- rosso, Boots- veronshoes, Jacket-vintage

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NEW FACE: VALERIE Name: Valerie Tchikhiaeva Age: 23 Location: Manchester/ London Agency: M Models Management MCR & D1 Models LDN How long have you been modelling for? Less than 1 year Where are you from originally? Originally Russian and Ghanian (African)

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I am currently trying to learn how to do a wheelie on my Motorbike What would surprise people to know about you? I speak fluent Russian and have travelled to 6 out 7 continents What are your modelling ambitions? I will work for large staple names such as Nike, Levi's and Charlotte Tilbury. The list goes on.

Model @_valerietchi_ - Valerie Tchikhiaeva Makeup artist @sophievj - Sophie Vijayasurej Photographer @shootwithbee_ - Rebecca Armstrong Hairstylist @mphairartist - Marcos Perez Stylist @annacarriee - Anna Rychilkova Clothing @futr_store - Lucinda Joya

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THE BEST WORK BY MARIA My name is Maria. I am from the Philippines living in Paris. I found myself making creative photography as I like the photos to look like a piece of freeze moment. I grew up reading fashion magazines more than the books and comics. I like the fashion and the curiosity in every outfit. I like the out of this world fantasy images which can be weird but still looks wonderful to look at. Something I like about fashion is its versatility and its time transformation to bring an emotion. I love that the images, without any words, can make someone experience a certain emotion. I took a long path before I finally realise that photography is a great tool to see all my love of art in one place. I did paintings, sketching, and sculpting; I studied make up and styling, my old professions. All of those were the process I had to go through before I discovered I can actually do photography.

Photographer: Maria Model: Ursula Wardrobe Stylist: Darya Korobkova

Photographer: Maria Wardrobe Stylist: Katya Semenova Model: Keiichi Ando Makeup Artist: Maria_l_uy

It was not long ago that I started doing it professionally and gave myself as much freedom to show it and started submitting to magazines. I think of concepts and then plan it with a team to put it together. I like to use props to complete a look. Sometimes I like to keep it raw and without editing. I like the organic feel I got initially when I took the photo. I like old fashion and vintage photos but only using the digital camera for its ability to erase unwanted photos and retake them. But I prefer not to manipulate a lot in photos as it gives me that satisfaction of the result the moment I took them. Basically, what inspires me is what I see with my eyes, be it on random subways or while I am talking and suddenly an idea will spark during the conversation. I could look at a face and imagine something that suits his/her features.

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portfolio

piece Photographer: Maria Model: Alina Croitoru Wardrobe Stylist: Maria_l_uy Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Veronika K

Photographer: Maria Wardrobe Stylist/Model: Darya Korobkova Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Veronika K

Photographer: Maria Wardrobe Stylist: Katya Semenova Model: Keiichi Ando Makeup Artist: Maria_l_uy

LONDON RUNWAY

...a different kind of bride Hair Stylist: Lucian Buium @lucianbuium1 Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: @Lucianbuium1 Photographer: Omar Shaker Photography @realomarshaker Wardrobe Stylist/Fashion Designer: @mateiemiliano Model: Ania Pobidel @aniawiktoria7201

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"I don't do like everyone else, I do like me ... my work means hairstyles and make-up, abstract and avant-garde fashion. I innovate and bring to light new styles for the modern woman who accepts and wants change. ''

LONDON RUNWAY

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The wedding dress, short and with train, is extremely comfortable and easy to wear for almost any figure. The accessories are a little out of the ordinary, but this is exactly what shapes and gives a new look to the whole project. The avant-garde hairstyle as well as the abstract make-up, bring to the fore a different kind of bride.

"Someone asked me if I wasn't tired or bored doing this job for 10 years? I tried to give him a clear answer ... saying that being a hairdresser actually means being a painter, in which if you don't paint when you have to and you don't add new elements it's like starting to paint a picture but not finishing it never"

LONDON RUNWAY

FASHION NEVER SLEEPS The era of secret and inaccessible fashion shows is now over, well, at least not digitally. Lately, the technological evolution of fashion has galloped wildly. We are now moving towards fully digital clothing and red carpets populated by gaming-style avatars.

Do we all agree that Fashion Week is one of the most loved and awaited events of the year? Many fashion outsiders see this wonderful, glitzy occasion as unreachable, and indeed, it is. The fashion shows have always been invitation-only and super exclusive, especially the after parties that we mere mortals find ourselves watching from Instagram. However, despite lasting no more than 15 minutes, fashion shows are an explosion of creativity, not just fashion-wise. The evolution of these events is crazy. Think back to the 19th century when Charles Worth, an English couturier who emigrated to Paris, organised special events for his wealthy clients. Worth is considered the father of haute couture, and a select few were privileged to see his creations in advance. A further innovation was the presence of models. It was then customary to use mannequins, often miniature or simple illustrations. Showing clothes on a moving body was a real revolution. Another designer famous for his fashion shows was Paul Poiret. He created clothes for the most famous people of the early 1900s and was particularly popular for his extravagant evening wear creations. Dance and performances were the norms at Poiret's fashion presentations.

Images via Institute of Digital Fashion's Instagram

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The first woman who revolutionised the fashion world, in my opinion, was Gabrielle Bonheur- 'Coco' Chanel, a free spirit not into the constraints imposed by society on women in the 1920s. Chanel was the first woman to abandon skirts and shamelessly wear trousers. Her designs were practical, sports-inspired, and often in lightweight jersey, her favourite fabric. Her atelier was in 31 Rue Cambon in Paris, where she hosted her fashion shows. A magnificent curved staircase flanked by a wall of mirrors was the start of the catwalk, and she used to sit at the top of the stairs peering down at the show. Jumping into the 90s, a noteworthy change is the birth of top models. Gianni Versace saw the charisma, beauty, and talent of some young models who were beginning to set foot in the fashion world. Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Claudia Schiffer are just some of Versace's muses. Since then, the most famous catwalks have been competing for the most talented supermodels. From then on, the cost of the shows started to rise, and the salary of these models became more and more inflated. Many fashion houses realised the still relatively unexplored potential of set design for fashion shows. The simple catwalks that had characterised fashion presentations until then began to host spectacular props.

Chanel is definitely one of the brands that must be mentioned when talking about crazy settings. Those of you who don't miss a single show of this brand will remember the Chanel cruise 2018/2019. Indeed, for that show, Karl Lagerfeld commissioned a 148-meter-long boat called La Pausa, using the name of Coco Chanel's villa on the French Rivera. This full-sized boat took a whole month of work to be installed inside the Grand Palais. The most recent settings included a beach real natural sand and

water, a snowy mountain village, and a forest covered in fallen leaves. Additionally, Chanel transforms the Grand Palais in Paris into a stunning and tremendously realistic location every year for its fashion shows.

According to many fashion and luxury marketing experts, the pandemic just accelerated the inevitable shift to the world of digital fashion. In the last two years, many events moved online, and some fashion houses like Dior even approached short films. I find the shift to short movies quite spectacular, as they give the chance to admire the new collection while enjoying a story. For example, Dior focused on fairytale landscapes, such as forests populated by curious mythological creatures, enchanted castles with wizards, and tarot characters. Choosing to escape from reality gives the possibility to show haute couture dresses, generally not suitable for everyday life, in settings that can enhance their beauty and poetry.

Images via British Fashion Council's Instagram

Fashion embraced the digital world with open arms during the Balenciaga crossover with Simpsons in September 2021. Indeed, this special fashion week episode even saw the cameo of Anna Wintour, Kim Kardashian, and Kanye West seating in the front row of the Simpson-immersed fashion show. The collaboration between Balenciaga and the beloved Springfieldbased cartoon completely blew everyone's mind. It is now common for fashion shows to be broadcasted on YouTube or other social media platforms. Still, there has been a soar in the production of fully digital experiences open both to the fashion insiders and the public in the last two years. Thanks to our smartphones, having fashion just a click away from us is the new norm. Have you ever tried the new virtual experiences where you can try shows of clothes online? Fashion is moving in that direction. Call me old fashion but, in my opinion, nothing beats a good traditional fashion show. I love seeing clothes on models walking a catwalk immersed in a stunning setting. Anyway, you've probably heard of NFTs recently, as

they are making their way in every magazine. NFT stands for non-fungible token and can be anything digital. The excitement about NFTs lies in owning something unique that exists mainly in the virtual world. Indeed, fashion is entering the metaverse, the virtual-reality space where users interact with a computergenerated environment and other users. In the metaverse, people can wear outfits thanks to augmented reality. One of the latest events that saw the use of NFTs is the Fashion Awards 2021, one of the most exciting events for the fashion industry annually held at the Royal Albert Hall. This year, many celebrities tried virtual outfits while crossing the red carpet. The Institute of Digital Fashion, a London-based extraordinary institution of fashion experts that study the evolution of fashion and its impacts on everyday life, brought in some stunning virtual outfits. Another techbased experience at the Fashion Awards 2021 was the Roblox red carpet. This behemoth gaming platform blended TV and gaming, allowing the digital audience to enter a digitally

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Image via Villa Eugénie's Instagram

LONDON RUNWAY rendered Royal Albert Hall. People had the chance to walk the red carpet, explore nominees' displays, and try on their virtual fashions. Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s Creative Director, created a series of purchasable outfits, and the proceeds were donated to the British Fashion Council. Although NFTs are starting to be explored mainly by wealthy people and tech geniuses, we'll hopefully all be there in a reasonable time. Evolution continues; it seems that the fashion industry will continually enchant us, and we live for that! While many people still turn their noses up at the idea of buying clothes to wear in the metaverse, I think we will soon get used to this revolution. Every Fashion Week for the past couple of years has been a surprise, especially tech-wise. I don't know what about you, but I can't wait to see what the next Fashion Week will bring us.

You can explore more of Cicilia's work visiting ciciliabrognoli.com

Image via Villa Eugénie's Instagram

NATIONAL WEDDING SHOW

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE

ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli Anissa Kermiche Love Heart Pink Opal signet Ring £1,220

Mr Porter Embellished Wool Blazer £1,820

Net-A-Porter Isla ruched stretch-Micro Modal bodysuit £165.00

Introvert Rah Embroidered Cape Tunic £35.00

Net-A-Porter Sweetheart crystalembellished duchessesatin mini dress £930.00

Net-A-Porter Sage lamé midi skirt £830.00

Anissa Kermiche Infinite Love Stud £219.00 Mr Porter Slim-Fit Tapered Virgin Wool Trousers £790

Aspinal Of London Rose Gold Metallic Double Croc $325.00

H&M Conscious shaping swimsuit £24.99

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NEW BUSINESS THE PURPLE COLLECTION

Name of company: The Purple Collection Type of business: Clothing brand Location: United Kingdom

How long has the company been running? 7 months Where did the idea come from? Loving the colour purple and wanting to start a new venture. What are your company values? Individuality, self-love, charisma, and sophistication.

Currently, how many people work for the business? Only me at the moment but will go up to 2 once I hire a seamstress for the second collection - stay tuned! ;) What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? Make sure you’re mentally and financially ready for this venture. Also, make sure to do a risk assessment and analyse any pros and cons that could happen. It requires a lot of patience, creativity, energy, and endurance. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time? In a better and more creative place than it was the year before.

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POP SUGAR LOVE BY VIVIENNE MONIQUE

Fun Photoshoot for New Year 2022! Model: Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique Photos: Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle Wardrobe/Outfit: Fendi / Zara / Shein / Reychelle Mendiola Accessory Designer: Gucci / Jojo Bragais

LONDON RUNWAY

BOOK Anxious People CLUB BY FREDRIK BACKMAN

This week Hannah Whittaker is looking at 2019 novel Anxious People from the bestselling Swedish author Fredrik Backman.

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I would be lying if I didn’t say the reason I picked up this book in Waterstone’s was because I too am an anxious person. In this instance, I think my actions reflected how much power a novel’s title can hold and how two words that you can personally relate to can draw you into a gripping and unexpected narrative. As Backman says himself, this book is about a bunch of idiots. The story centres around a bank robber who mysteriously goes missing after escaping into an apartment viewing following an attempt to rob a cashless bank. We follow the personal stories of eight individuals who find themselves being held hostage by said bank robber. The mysterious disappearance of the bank robber emerges when the police are able to negotiate over the phone and the robber agrees to let the hostages go whilst the robber waits in the apartment to be arrested. The hostages are released, the police make their way up, but there is no bank robber to be found. There are so any emotions within this book, and as the reader, you are taken on a rollercoaster of sensations. This is the reason that I chose this book to review this month. The relationships, humour, personal stories and overall narrative has made it one of my favourite books that I read in 2021. The humour that Backman includes in this book is what drew me in from the first page. I found that it had been a while since I’d read something that genuinely made me laugh out loud, and because I didn’t know what to expect from this book, it made it even better. Backman’s sarcasm and wit mixed with his incredible writing skills made this book stand out for me as it was so different to anything I’d read recently. The special quality that Backman has here is to seamlessly integrate difficult topics— depression, parenthood, grief, and the hardships of marriage— with his humour, making the book that slight bit easier to read. Backman also writes as if he is speaking directly to the speaker, breaking the fourth wall and creating an important, personal atmosphere for the reader.

Without giving too much away, the reader is taken on a journey through the hostage and how each character reacts to it, intertwined with flashbacks to each individual’s own conflicts in life. This character-driven plot links each character together in unexpected ways and provides twists and turns in every chapter keeping the reader curious and involved. The character that stood out the most to me was Zara, a successful bank director whose trauma changed her life. The closed off and borderline rude personality that we meet at the beginning of the book goes through such a dramatic development emotionally and physically. Zara’s and most of the other characters’ responses to the bank robber are hilarious because… they didn’t react. No one seemed to be bothered by the situation that had just arisen, with many even questioning the hesitant bank robber who had no clue what they were doing. Backman uses the hostage situation to bring humour back to the story, in between the rather challenging and heartbreaking personal stories. In my opinion, it is important that Backman represented the lightheartedness of a typically terrifying situation to keep the story funny and not totally depressing. Being able to laugh throughout this book is pivotal, and let’s just say it involves bunnies, chests of wine, and small hiding spaces. Humour is a huge part of this book, but the theme of anxiety holds just as much importance. The narrative relates largely to the title in that every character we meet faces their own challenges with anxiety and other mental health issues. Backman addresses these topics so that we, as the reader, are taken along on each individual’s journey as they’re working through their anxieties and eventually come out the other side. There is a strong, full-circle, and absolute feeling by the end of this book after the reader has gone on this emotional excursion with each character. Even though I have mainly focused on the humour of the book in this

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review, it is important to remember that there are challenging topics discussed in this novel, and at times, it was devastatingly hard to read about the troubles these people each faced. Overall, this novel is poignant, relatable, and an incredibly enjoyable read. There is so much depth into each character’s life, and the diversity of these characters will appeal to a huge range of audiences. The way in which the storyline is broken up with snippets from the police interviews with each hostage and flashbacks into each of their lives also means that your attention will be grasped on every page. This was such a unique and entertaining story that can make you laugh, cry, or both at the same time. The book has recently been released as a TV series on Netflix, which I am yet to watch but am confident will be just as amusing as the novel. But I would highly recommend reading Anxious People first. There is a way that Backman can connect with you so poignantly as a reader, and it is something that I think everyone should experience.

Page-turner – ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Complexity – ⭐⭐⭐ Storyline – ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

You can read more of Hannah’s work by following @hw.reads on Instagram.

Glamskin (A Glam Like Me)

Photographer/Retoucher/Creative Director: Diego Flores Assistant: Sivan Cole Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Assistant: Paula Burbat Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_ Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva, Clowe Designs

Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Assistant: Paula Burbat Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management

Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Assistant: Paula Burbat Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva

Assistant: Paula Burbat Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_

Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Assistant: Paula Burbat Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_ Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva

Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Assistant: Paula Burbat Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_

Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management Assistant: Paula Burbat Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_ Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva

Assistant: Paula Burbat Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_ Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva

Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management Assistant: Paula Burbat Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva

Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Assistant: Paula Burbat Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva

Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Assistant: Paula Burbat Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Male Model: Felipe Garcia Pérez @Clear Management Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_ Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva

Creative Director: Elizabeth Depta Assistant: Paula Burbat Makeup Artist: Elena Cabrero Color Retoucher: Daniel Claudin Makeup Artist: Sara Uribe Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva Model: Camille Rochel @agenciariver_ Wardrobe Credits: Boyka Georgieva

LONDON RUNWAY

INTERVIEW WITH SARAH HOLLEBON & TIA LIAN This week, Thomas Woods interviews up and coming designers Sarah Hollebon and Tia Lian at the recent Independent Brand Pop-Up event at the Martinez Members Cocktail Lounge. Considering the last two years in which the Covid-19 pandemic has damaged small businesses, it is important to shed light on creatives that are still looking to persevere, especially in the world of fashion. At the recent Independent Brand Pop-Up event at the Martinez Members Cocktail Lounge, I caught up with a few designers that were looking to push their businesses into the public eye and get their work out there.

TW: Were there any other pre-existing brands you took inspiration from? SH: There are some brands that I took inspiration from... some designers that I love are (Maison) Margiela, more 90s era Margiela, Thierry Mugler. They have definitely informed my work. TW: I can see that, especially with the red blazer in your 2019 collection! It has '90s Mugler vibes.

SH: I’ve lived in London for 5 years now, so yeah, I’d say it’s had an impact. I also just take inspiration from nature around me as well, with the buildings and greenery. Also, the deep-rooted history that’s linked to London, I find that very inspiring. TW: A lot of creatives and directors tend to lean towards colours, shapes, or textures... is there a particular side you tend to lean towards?

SH: That’s really nice to hear! TW: Being a London based magazine, London Runway is interested in the influence that the city has on fashion culture. Has your brand been informed or influenced by the city in any way?

Sarah Hollebon Sarah Hollebon is the designer and owner of her self-named brand, one that makes highly detailed bespoke pieces. With the aim of her brand being to explore worldwide social issues, I sat down with Sarah to discuss how she went about dissecting this, as well as what inspired her. TW: I see that you use your pieces to represent prominent social issues, how do you go about dissecting those? Is it all personal, or do you seek other experiences to put into your creations? SH: It’s a mixture! It depends on the concept that I start with, so it’s all about social issues. I started by talking about mental health, I dissected things from my own personal experiences, and I also interviewed people who have gone through those types of experiences as well. My next collection is based around trauma, and again, I’m going to be taking inspiration from my own personal experiences. I think taking inspiration from other people’s experiences is the most factual form of information you can get.

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SH: It’s definitely a balance. Part of my business is bespoke, so one aspect is that it’s for the client, creating pieces that are more tailored to their shape. I do really like texture, but I like to balance it carefully with shape...

LONDON RUNWAY

creating obscure silhouettes but then having natural and subtle textures. I work a lot with boucle, which I think is a really textured fabric. But then I really like black, as I think that pairs nicely with shape and form. TW: It must be hard to choose, but do you have a favourite piece? SH: It is! But I think I do have a favourite. It’s the black and white jacket that I recently made because that represents the 1 in 4 mental health statistic, and that’s personal to me.

It was clear from talking to Sarah that, as a designer, she was as detailed as they come. She clearly loved creating her own work, and it is evident that she has put a lot of time into her craft, moulding the business around concepts that not only benefits her, but others too. Her work was striking, unique, and tasteful. Her use of shape was an aspect of her pieces that really stood out to me when viewing the pieces in person, with the excellence of the fabric only adding to the overall quality of her work.

TW: Do you mind sharing what the statistic is? SH: Oh yes, so 1 in 4 people will develop a mental health issue in their lifetime. I think fashion is so powerful to talk about important issues and it can really change the way people think and act... it’s just so powerful. I can see it through conversations I’ve had with people.

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TW: Did you have any inspirations? Maybe more on the aesthetic side of things? Tia: Yeah! For my collection that involved 3D printing and laser cutting, my inspiration came from my investigation into martial arts. My dad teaches this martial arts class called Wing Chun. It’s not aggressive; it’s more to do with energy and flow. I was looking at different ways to represent energy in an aesthetic way, and I would draw shapes and draw how I would visualise energy. This is my way of representing that.

TW: A question I’ve been interested in asking today has been to do with creators and their interests aesthetically. Are you somebody that leans more towards shapes, materials, or colours? Or is there more of a general balance? Tia: I love shapes! I think that initial design process of how you are going to make that shape is super fun... but for me, I love texture and textiles, with the garments. That’s where I started out, with textiles. Then, I moved into fashion. When I design, I get very excited with embellishments or the textures or the fabric or how I’m going to make a certain fabric. That’s why I’m quite drawn to making my own fabric with the 3D printing, the laser cutting...finding unconventional ways to use fabric. That’s what I’m drawn to.

Tia Lian Tia Lian is a young British designer who has most recently presented her pieces at the 2019/2020 New York Fashion Week, as well as being the winner of both the 2021 GFW X W1Curates Competition and the Arts of Fashion Competition. Tia and I discussed a range of topics in relation to her fashion journey so far, as well as what’s to come. TW: I was really interested in your brand’s prominent use of 3D printing. Going forward, do you think that will be the main form of production? Do you think it’s an emerging method? Tia: I think that, at the minute, the fashion industry is constantly creating new ways to make fashion. I think 3D printing is starting to become an interesting element to design, but when I started out, it was more me working with my university’s engineers that got me into it. It wasn’t something we were taught in our fashion classes. It was something I went and investigated on my own. I look at designers like Iris van Herpen and saw her designs, using 3D printing, laser cutting, and it seemed so unique in comparison to everyone else. It was definitely the route I wanted to go down; it’s actually a really cool way to create things.

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TW: What is the hardest part, for you, about starting a brand or creating a project? Tia: For me, I did the university route. My course taught me ways to show my creativity. They told us not to hold back, do whatever you want, and be expressive; do the things you think are too hard to make. That is where I gained a lot of my confidence. But, when leaving university, I had this skill and I didn’t know how to manage it. Starting out, I didn’t know where to begin. That’s the hardest part, making the first initial step into it. You must have discipline with yourself and keep pushing for what you want. Also, knowing when to set your goals out and setting out what you want by the end of the year is important, it’s the main thing that I do.

Tia’s brand was one that I was really drawn to, most prominently because of her unique use of material in tandem with shape. Her avant-garde style does not make her pieces any less approachable, with many of her pieces bringing her own take on everyday clothing. With some of her more ‘runway’ pieces, the use of 3D printing and laser cutting is the major standout, and it really translates her quoted inspirations of Wing Chun and natural settings, with the flow of her pieces working amazingly well.

All images via HOLLEBON & TIA LIAN

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CRYSTAL LONDON

NATIONAL ASIAN WEDDING SHOW Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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FRONTIER RAAS

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MANOJ MAKWANA

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MONGA

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OBG OMEGA

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PANNAZ BOUTIQUE

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AMALA

NATIONAL ASIAN WEDDING SHOW Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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ARINDER BHULLAR

BAABUL

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OPAL

PANNAZ BOUTIQUE

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ROOP COUTURE

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Whether that be for your partner, family, or friends, love is everywhere, and how better to show your appreciation for your loved ones than through the act of consideration and giving. Candice curates a list of accessories to complement each sign and their personalities.

Aries March 21 - April 20

Pala Eyewear- Meria Havana These vintage-inspired cat-eye sunglasses will accentuate the charisma of this fire sign. Handmade in Italy from a plant-based Havana acetate with metal detailing and graduating brown lenses.

Taurus April 21 - May 21

A Woven Plane - Oatmeal Socks Comfortable, transitional, and essential, these socks are perfect for Tauruses. Made from merino wool, cotton, and polyamide, they are durable and breathable.

Gemini May 22- June 21

BOTTLETOP - Large Scarf in Ruovesi Green Dressing depending on their moods, Geminis will love the versatility of this accessory staple. Named after lakes in Finland, the scarf is offered in two colours and made from 100% recycled PET.

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Cancer June 22- July 22 Mashu - Nicole Fluffy White Known for their vintage, romantic styles, Cancers will instantly fall in love with this little purse. Locally and sustainably handmade in Athens, every purchase made through Mashu also plants 5 trees.

Leo July 23- August 21 Mashu - Amaryllis Leopard Of all the signs to have a statement bag, Leos would be the ones, and this bag is not only a statement in its aesthetics but its sustainable production as well. Made from factory offcuts and by expert wood artisans.

Virgo August 22- September 23 Couper et Coudre - Linen Stripe Bandana This handmade fabric square is versatile and made from organic cotton and raw silk purchased from small U.K. companies working with farmers with guaranteed fair-trade and GOTS certified materials. Complimentary to Virgo’s aesthetics and ethos.

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LONDON RUNWAY

Libra September 24- October 23

Birdsong - Reclaimed Cotton Offcut Scrunchie In a myriad of prints and colours, Libras, the master of effortless style, will stock up on these simple, yet playful accessories. They are made from leftover fabrics from Birdsong’s main collection, and each purchase means a donation to charity.

Scorpio

October 24- November 22

BOTTLETOP - Kibé Fino Enamel Belt Scorpios will swoon over the edgy yet functional design of this belt. Hand crocheted using upcycle metal tabs, this one-size-fits-all belt is handmade in Brazil and supports local artisans in the Itapua community.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Organic Basics - Recycled Cashmere Beanie Made from recycled cashmere, this ribbed beanie is a classic wardrobe essential, perfect for the still chilly months to come before Spring. Sagittariuses will appreciate the colour options matching any of their fun fits.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Neubau Eyewear - Mia II “We just have to change our perspective, to change the world.” The ambitious and hard-working Capricorns will resonate with this brand’s motto as well as their stylish, eco-friendly 3D printed sunglasses. Made from natural3D, a 100% bio-based polymer.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19

Aitch Aitch - The MK Tote This tote is both quirky in design and innovatively made. Using panelled salmon leather skin, the material is ethically sourced from sustainable, organic salmon farms in the UK and dyed with non-toxic, chemical-free dyes.

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Ethereal London - Isla Print Collar From 100% sustainably silk Crepe de Chine, this ruffle collar highlights the elegance of a Piscean’s usually floaty ensembles. It’s perfect for adding a slightly more formal touch to any outfit.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers

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LIL SAFONOVA: SINGLE MOM, CREATIVE, BUSINESSWOMAN, AND JOURNALIST Makeup Artist: Ekaterina Aleshina IG: aleshina_makeupartist Publication/Photographer: Lil Safonova IG: lilsafonovaofficial Makeup Artist/Photographer/Hair Stylist: Victoria Kurdyumova IG: victoriavivacom Model: Lil Safonova IG: lilgarden Fashion Designer: Lady Daze Fine Jewelry IG: ladydazefinejewelry

I love my career, people betrayed me, but my career never betrayed me. I could not go to work as a salesman or in an office, they would not take me there at all! I didn't have a whole day for working, since I had to take care about a child, so freelancing was my only means of earning money, these people simply did not understand this. I was not even hired to work as a waitress in a cheap disco bar, having learned that I was not a Moscovite, alone and I had a small child. My child practically grew up on the set. When she learned to walk, there were times when she cried and could not wait for the shooting to end and just ran into the shooting room during the shooting and jumped into my arms. As a result, so that the client did not get angry because of the loss of time, I kept shooting him with one hand and rocked the child at the same time, using another hand. This is not a joke! Time is money; grab your luck by the tail! While some doubt and hesitate, there are always those who are confident and act quickly. In this life, I was anything - good, evil, smart, stupid, but I was never cowardly.

Earrings - petite hoops in gold/labrodite. And Ring "Harem Queen" Lil Wearing - Lady Daze Fine Jewelry

LONDON RUNWAY

THE SAD REALITY OF BEING A WOMAN IN MODERN-DAY UK By Jessica Carvalho

Picture this – you’re sat at a train station. It's late, but not late enough for it to be deemed odd for you to be hurriedly typing away. Most can afford to get fully immersed in whatever task is on their screen, but not me, and definitely not most women. I have to stay alert. Keep an eye out for my surroundings, have an exit route planned for any situation that may arise just in case a man passing me decides to approach me, and a way to de-escalate the situation if things go south. Later on, I have to ensure I’m not sat in an isolated coach and that I get an Uber from the station I’m alighting at, but also share my location with someone and… Being a woman in the UK is a fulltime occupation of its own, now more than ever. Incidents against women, especially killings, have seen an exponential increase from 2019 to present day. The pandemic and subsequent lockdowns also saw a record 1.6 million women experiencing domestic abuse, with very little being done to protect those who do not have the luxury of a peaceful home environment.

Alongside the ever-growing number of attacks on women in the UK, the downplay of the severity of the situation has become a frequent occurrence, especially online. “1 in 3”, a statistic released earlier last year to represent how many women have experienced physical or sexual violence in their lifetime has turned into an escape route for some, claiming that the daunting number must be an overstatement since not all women come forward about their experiences, and not all men are like that – because some would rather pretend things are fine than to take accountability. The situation is painfully bleak, but what concerns me the most is that I can no longer find it in me to feel anything about it. Between Sarah Everard and the other 100 murders of women that have occurred in London since March of the past year, I found my best coping mechanism to be suppressing my emotions. If I allowed myself to grieve, not only the wrongful loss of life, but also the fact that nothing has changed in the UK, I would run myself into the ground, cry rivers that would eventually put oceans to shame. So, I keep at it, pushing for change and equality by day, clutching my keys and praying I make it home by nightfall.

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I’m not alone in feeling this way, a blanket of helplessness draped over every woman in thecountry right now, but since no two experiences are ever the same, I reached out to three women with a very simple, but very loaded question.

LONDON RUNWAY

Olivia, 22

How does being a woman in present day UK make you feel? (Names have been changed for privacy) Sam, 18 I think being a woman in the modern day can be extremely toxic and detrimental to mental health. Whilst we have very violent issues such as misogyny and the current spiking scandals in clubs, there is also a prominent issue of the male gaze and women still catering to social stereotypes. A woman must look or act a certain way. There are constant beauty standards which I don’t think apply to men, and thus create an injustice. Despite the many protests to normalise a woman’s most natural form, the result has been insignificant. Alongside, women must face the horrors of sexualisation in the real world; there’s also a level of it within the psyche. No matter how you present as a woman I believe there will always be a fear of not fitting a stereotype. Alex, 20 I’m generally androgynous which I’m completely comfortable being, but I do like to dress up more feminine occasionally, which tends to be nights out when I’m with other people and

and can feel safe wearing things a little more revealing [but] I’m too scared to even do that now. Most women are familiar with being told to avoid hostility with men, regardless of whether they are genuinely interested or not. Women are to be kind, docile, and compliant because lacking in any of these traits could cost you your life. Furthermore, we are simultaneously expected to look nice, and though there has been progress in making people see that women dress purely for themselves, too many people still believe women dress for the attention of men. This ideology is as dangerous as it is stupid, further pushing misogyny into a society which seems to thrive on it as of lately and objectifying and sexualising women. In addition, clothes aren’t a reflection of consent. A woman could wear as little or as much as she wanted and it would never give someone the right to overstep any boundaries, in any way. Sadly, women are choosing to wear more, especially in social settings such as clubs and bars; with the advances made to stop the spiking of drinks, some have now turned to injecting drugs directly into unsuspecting women.

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Being a woman is tiring! On one side, I’m supposed to be this iconic sex symbol that exudes allure and mystery, but just enough, otherwise I’m considered promiscuous. On the other, I have to be the pinnacle of purity and be submissive, docile, and unquestioning. In addition to this, my sense of fashion has been entirely warped by the white, cis-male heteronormative beauty standards. Typically, I dress in a hyperfeminine way, but I have found that this is the style of clothes which attract the most unwanted attention from men. It’s sad because I never imagined that I’d even have to consider how I dress just to lessen my chances of being harassed, when that should never be the case. Nowadays, I’ve found myself subconsciously turning to loose-fitting streetwear and have noticed that I don’t attract as much attention to myself as before. As upsetting as it may be, I have lost hope in terms of change. This was brought on by the surge charge introduced by Uber last year at the height of the nightclub injection spiking incidents, in which once it hits midnight during the weekend, fares are increased due to “popular demand”. I totally understand that Uber is a business which must make profit, but taking advantage of such a delicate situation and forcing women to opt for routes home which may be more dangerous because the prices are too high is just heart-breaking to me. Usually, I try to wrap up my thoughts with a bow of hope, but after searching deep within myself, I can’t say I feel hopeful. For things to change, women’s safety must be approached with preventative measures, not elaborate ways to pick up the pieces after tragedy occurs. Society needs to do right by its people, regardless of their gender.

Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

“You know those little wipes you get to wipe your bum? The ones that aren’t toilet paper, but they really properly clean it. I’d take those! Imagine if you’re on a dessert island and you’ve got no toilet paper, it would be awful”

“Chapstick! No desert needed; it'll always be chapstick.”

-Candice Wu, editorial assistant/singersongwriter

– Benedict Cork, singer-songwriter

“MOISTURISER 100%” – Amber John, publishing assistant

“"A mask or moisturiser for sure" -Melody

MOISTURISER!!! PREFERABLY WITH A SPF IN IT.

“SPF 5000+ of course!” - Anna

- Ruth Croft, writer

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