London Runway Issue 75 - The Summer Issue

SUSTAINABLE HOMEWARES . STELLA MCCARTNEY . STAYING COOL . LOVE ISLAND . PERSONAL STYLE

HOUSE OF IKONS . MA MENSWEAR WESTMINSTER . LIFESTYLE . UNI EAST LONDON . NINA DOROUSHI

ISSUE 75 27TH JUNE 2022

THE SUMMER ISSUE

RRP £9.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Tongxin Li (Diana)

STAFF SPOTLIGHT

each issue, we let you meet one of our team members

Staff Writers: Ruth Croft Advertising enquiries - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Bruno Jorge, Louis Cleary, Amrit Virdi, Damisola Sulaiman, Emily Fromant, Emily Poncia, Andrey Lukovnikov, Inna Torbunova, Ekaterina Lukovnikov, Diana Afitserava, Anna Lyakhova at Unique Models UK, Dylan Keith, Merveille, University of East London, MAD, Seeun Kim, Emil Sabijon Besitul, Armando Simpliciano, Yvan Kody, Dillon Richardson, Ellie Rich, David Fanning, Taylor Parker, Alexis B, Kirill Lukianenko, Polina Makarova, Serge Bazilic, Factura

Special thanks to the helpers and interviewees Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

Face of London Runway 2021 ambassador is Robert Keene.

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My name is Damisola Sulaiman. I started working at London Runway in May 2022 as a writing intern. Working at London Runway is a great opportunity for me to gain writing skills and experience in my dream career as a journalist.

Writing is my biggest passion, so to cultivate this I publish articles on Medium and have a poetry page. Outside of writing, I enjoy creating content for my YouTube channel and Instagram account. I am also a law student and I work in hospitality.

CONTENTS

112 VISUALS Rue Agthonis

7

Robyn Lynch

12

Carlota Barrera

15

Seeun Kim: The Oxford Collection 100 (editorial)

21

Yvan (editorial)

27

New Faces

34

Riverside Story (editorial)

37

Lifestyle Trunk Show Part 1

50

House of iKons Part 3

85 Glowing (editorial)

105

University of Westminster BA

112

WORDS

How to Make Sure You're Buying Sustainable Homewares

4

Stella McCartney's Mushrooms are the Future

17

How People Stayed Cool in History

47

Autonomy in Fashion and What Influences Our Style

60

63

Anciela

72

New Business: MAD

74

Style (Conscious) Guide: swimsuits

73

Book Club: Homegoing by Yaa Gyasi

82

University of East London

75 85

The Real Effect of Love Island Breaking Up with Fast Fashion

95

Red Threads (editorial) Modest Fashion Live

89

Your Style Horoscope

108

Julia Clancey

98

The Big Question

122

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Can you believe we’ve hit issue 75 of London Runway?

This little independent magazine has gone from strength to strength over the years, and I’m so proud of where we are today. It really does mean so much to see models getting excited about being published in our pages, or photographers sharing their work with gratitude. We really love seeing your shots with our print copies especially, whether you’re a contributor or simply a reader, so please do keep tagging us in those on Instagram!

Over the last 75 issues, we’ve established some traditions as well as breaking a few, and I’m really excited to share that we’re about to come upon two of our annual favourites again. The Face of London Runway competition is very much underway – by the time you read this, the entry form will have closed, and we’ll be gearing up for our online

Zoom rounds. These are so beneficial as it means we can speak to models from all around the world without pressuring them to come to London for all of our rounds if they’re not going to make it through – this year, our nearly 1,000 entrants have come from South Africa, Australia, Portugal, Germany, Canada, the US, and Spain, as well as here in the UK. Next month, we have a packed schedule ready before issue 76 will be released: we’re going to hold those Zoom rounds and then right away head into our inperson semi-final, this year held in Wood Green. We absolutely can’t wait to meet our semi-finalists! Of course, this is followed by the dreaded task of cutting it down to our finalists…

From 1,000 to just 90 for the Zoom rounds; from 90 to only 40 for our semi-final; from 40 to 10; and then, with the help of your votes in our final

round, we’ll narrow it down to just 2.

It’s incredible, but we can’t wait to see how it all goes down.

Coming up right after that will be the much-awaited London Runway Virtual Festival, a week of entertainment for you taking place on our online channels. That’s going to be so much fun too, with music, photography, tutorials, and live interviews coming up that you won’t want to miss. Look out for our event poster next issue for the full scoop.

All of this sounds like a lot of work for me to be getting on with, so I’ll leave you to enjoy this issue. I haven’t even managed to get on to telling you what’s in it, yet, but it’s pretty amazing stuff: sustainable homeware tips, finding your own style in a world dominated

by Instagram shops, London Fashion Week galleries, Love Island chat, and more all await you here.

Enjoy!

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

HOW TO MAKE SURE YOU’RE BUYING SUSTAINABLE HOMEWARES In this article, Damisola Sulaiman explores the rise of fast homeware and the various ways to shop for homeware sustainably.

In the public consciousness, a lot of attention has been brought to the harmful effects of fast fashion. But, a conversation that has been less mainstream, is the impact of fast homeware and where people can find sustainable alternatives.

But, with the 2020s came the rise of cluttercore and return to maximalism, there has been far more opportunity for more trends to come and go and for fast fashion brands to release homeware lines. These lines typically contain decorative accessories that people can add to their home for a short period of time to make it feel more personal rather than actual furniture.

"Fast homeware" (coined by Refinery29) refers to interior décor that is sold by high street retailers or the homeware section of fast fashion brands which is mass produced and largely based on the trend cycle. It also produces large amounts of waste.

In fashion, we speak endlessly about aesthetics and trends that come and go, but the same can be said for interior décor. In the 2000s and 2010s, we witnessed the rise of modern minimalist interiors being the most mainstream and garnering the highest praise. Nearly every home had the sleek white look with barely any furniture.

Social media has encouraged this. On Instagram, influencers and celebrities constantly post aesthetically pleasing pictures and reels of their homes. On Image viaofUnsplash Pinterest, there is a great deal home inspiration. I personally have a whole dream home décor board. Even on YouTube, apartment tours and makeovers are known to constantly perform well on the platform.

The question that arises from this is, "What do we do?" Wanting to make your home more personal and reflective of you is a perfectly reasonable desire, especially for students and young people who are typically renting and move around a lot.

Images via Canva

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LONDON RUNWAY

Sustainability should always be approached from a variety of different angles. Wastage – how can we buy homeware we keep and doesn’t end up thrown out by the end of our lease?

Materials – how can we ensure the brands we’re shopping from use materials that are good for the environment and are ethically sourced?

Labour – how can we ensure we are shopping from brands that have ethical and sustainable labour practices?

The age-old solution to wastage is intentionality. Similar to buying basics that live in your closet for years and years, it is vital to buy pieces for your home (even decorative ones) that are going to have a longer shelf life.

Perhaps rather than buying that adorable fake plant from that high street retailer, try becoming a plant parent and buy a real one that will grow and evolve with your home.

That being said, wanting to change up the style of your home makes perfect sense. A smart solution to this is shopping second hand. It offers the opportunity to have those adorable decorative pieces without contributing to wastage as much and the added benefit of them being one-of-a-kind.

Local charity shops and flea markets are always excellent places to start because you truly never know what hidden gems are living there, and every shop can be like a treasure hunt.

You also get the opportunity to see it in person and make sure any purchase is of a decent quality.

Image via Unsplash

The issue for a lot of people with the above option is convenience. Not everyone drives, and lugging around furniture on foot or on public transport is not ideal. So that’s where the internet comes in. Places like eBay, Vinted, or Facebook marketplace are online resources that offer postage or convenient pick up options. More often than not, on these platforms you’re dealing with real people who can work out something more convenient.

Homeware made of fully recycled or reclaimed materials is typically the most readily available sustainable option when it comes to materials.

Image via Adobe Stock

Image via Unsplash

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Reclaimed wood and recycled plastic are sustainable options that a lot of great sustainable brands use. But as a result of greenwashing, a lot of companies come out with ‘recycled’ lines while having a majority of their other products still being sourced from the same things.

Thus, there are some other sustainable options when it comes to materials that it can be wise to look out for. These include bamboo (which is becoming increasingly popular with a lot of brands), plant based materials such as hemp, eucalyptus wood, and rattan.

Image via Pixabay

A good way to go about it is taking a look at the things you consider buying, finding out what they are made of, and if these materials are biodegradable and cruelty-free. In another life, this could have been a lot of work, but, fortunately, a quick Google search does most of the work for you.

The unethical labour practices of a lot of huge brands, many of which have these fast homeware lines, have come to light in recent times. Trying to ensure that every brand you shop from treats their employees ethically is very challenging. Unfortunately, it is difficult for previous or current employees to talk about their working conditions without getting in a great deal of trouble.

A good way to do the best you can is definitely shopping from small businesses. Etsy is a haven for one-ofa-kind, creative gems that are typically hand crafted by the sellers. It has the added benefit of still providing a large

amount of options to suit a lot of different price ranges.

There are also incredible brands that have been transparent about their practices and that provide you with the ability to trust them and their products.

Aerende is a great example of this, as all of their products are created in the UK by people facing social challenges.

Another incredible brand is Weaver Green who turn recycled plastic into textiles that look and feel just like cotton and wool.

Shopping sustainably is definitely a tasking practice, especially considering that the world has encouraged doing the opposite for so long. But with the right information, it is definitely possible to have a gorgeous home that reflects you and also helps the environment.

You can read more of Damisola’s work by following @damisulaiman26 on Medium.

Image via Canva

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LONDON RUNWAY

RUE AGTHONIS Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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ROBYN LYNCH Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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CARLOTA BARRERA Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

STELLA MCCARTNEY’S MUSHROOMS ARE THE FUTURE Em Poncia takes a look at the fashion house where sustainability is ‘it’, and what place the cruelty-free brand has in 2022.

THE MAKING OF STELLA MCCARTNEY

‘Sustainability’, ‘greenwashing’, and ‘cruelty-free’ have all become buzzwords for the fashion industry in the last couple of years. High-street chains have clamoured to claim customers with often-empty promises about ethical and sustainable practices.

Although she has professed in multiple interviews that she hates her success being tied to her family, the fact that the ‘McCartney’ name has made waves in virtually all areas of popular culture has had a significant impact on her fashion house. At the same time as admonishing people who see her background as the reason for her success, McCartney credits her mother for imbuing her with a strong sense of right and wrong when it comes to the treatment of animals.

Comparatively, in luxury spheres, it is often the unsustainable products that drive up the prices. Shoppers expect real leather, or sometimes rarer animal products like crocodile, if they’re going to be paying top dollar.

Stella McCartney’s brand, established in 2001, has breathed fresh air into luxury fashion with her sustainable values and refusal to use animal products. However, although innovative in her ethics in 2001, McCartney’s sustainability factor no longer allows her a competitive edge in a world where going green is a trend. So what, then, has kept this fashion house in the forefront of peoples’ minds for over twenty years?

Linda McCartney has become a household name for being a purveyor of vegetarian meat alternatives, and McCartney’s use of plant-derived materials only follows this example. Her father, Paul McCartney of Beatles fame, has said in interviews that Stella showed an aptitude for fashion from a very young age. He details a black suede jacket with a hot pink lining that she designed and made as her first foray into the fashion design world and how she had always been determined to ‘make it’ in this chosen field. After graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins School in London in 1995, McCartney caused a commotion through her choice of models for her final degree show. Being friends with supermodels of the time like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, she says that it felt logical for her to ask them to model for her. Her debut caused a storm because of their high profile and she was thrust into the limelight.

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After a stint working as a designer at Chloé, McCartney left to properly establish her own brand, operating under her name. She remembers being discouraged, told that, as a woman, she would struggle to be successful in luxury fashion without the brand name of Chloé.

Defying her doubters, McCartney still left, earning her the title of what Anna Wintour saw as the only female designer operating on a luxury level at the time.

‘IT’ BAGS AND ANIMAL RIGHTS In 2022, the McCartney brand is perhaps most iconic for their accessories, namely what McCartney self-described as an ‘It’ bag: The Falabella. This bag, instantly recognisable, has been seen on countless celebrities, especially during its heyday of the late 2000s/early 2010s.

This vision of herself as an activist who shows her views through her fashion production continues in her advocating for animal rights campaigners PETA. Appearing in many of their promotional videos, McCartney’s self-styling is, as she

says herself, that of ‘designer’ in a very broad sense, rather than as a ‘fashion designer’. To pigeonhole her as a fashion designer feels diminishing to her other achievements in the climate activism sector.

The concept of the ‘It’ bag itself is one that has remained in place for much of modern fashion history. The fact that Stella McCartney’s Falabella entered the ranks amongst classic and long-standing luxury accessory brands such as Louis Vuitton and Dior is testament to her design acumen.

However, I am not convinced that the upturn in McCartney’s popularity in this era was a result of increased awareness about animal cruelty and its damages.

McCartney’s designs were interesting in their own right, and she earned her place as a designer rather than as an ethical option for luxury shoppers. Although McCartney’s ethics were a plus point to her designs, they were not the only selling point, nor the reason that she became a household name.

This appears to me to go against Stella’s own design for her career. In interviews, she often steers the conversation towards her sustainability, perhaps showing what her priorities are. Perhaps it was a valiant effort to bring attention to the harmful nature of production in the fashion industry. In one interview, she highlights how she recently spent much time and money developing a sustainable replacement for Rayon that is derived from wood.

McCartney Mushroom print silk maxi dress £1250

SPRING SUMMER 2022 In slight contrast to her other work, the ‘Mushrooms Are the Future’ SS22 collection McCartney released seems to take a far more visible stance on promoting sustainability. Where previously McCartney’s viewpoint seemed to be that using sustainable materials was not a matter of having clothes that looked or felt any different from other luxury brands, ‘Mushrooms Are the Future’ leans into a mushroom motif that keeps her ethos of vegetarianism highly visible.

The stand-out pieces in this regard are those made in the mushroom print.

Several dresses, tops, and trousers were cast in a fabric of a repeating, almost dizzying, mushroom design. As the colours are bright and almost psychedelic, the collection appears also to cater for the increasing trend of tolerance and legality for psychedelic drugs, with the mushroom motif serving this double meaning. From some of the items, long spore-like tassels made the pieces look almost plant-like or wispy as the models walked around a runway carpeted like grass.

This extra-visibility of her ethos appears to me to be McCartney’s answer to the increasing number of brands catering to the ecologically-discerning consumer base. Having ruled the roost in sustainable luxury fashion for years, McCartney’s brand is threatened by the surge in sustainable luxury.

Brands such as Reformation, Maison de Mode, and People Tree offer a similarly ethical shopping experience, but often at a competitive price. Because of the technological developments it requires, sustainable fashion is often more expensive, but many other brands are undercutting Stella whilst still remaining in the ‘luxury’ category.

Thus, the turn towards making her penchant for mushrooms easily readable in this particular collection is perhaps an attempt to recast the sustainable fashion market by creating a niche for visible sustainability.

McCartney Mushroom print fringed midi dress £3400

THE VERY PERSONAL BRAND OF STELLA MCCARTNEY A striking aspect of Stella McCartney, both as a woman and as a brand, is its personal nature. When watching interviews with her, the passion she has for both designing and sustainability is utterly palpable. How this translates to her brand is the instant recognisability of her accessories, particularly her bags. Most have the iconic ‘Stella McCartney’ emblazoned very large onto their side.

Perhaps more than other brands, even those where the company carries the name of the designer, Stella the woman feels intimately tied to Stella the brand.

Because she was so young when she was thrust into the limelight, looking into the history of her brand almost feels as though you are watching her grow up through the evolution of her design.

Because vegetarianism and cruelty-free practices are so crucial to the brandbuilding of Stella McCartney, her ethics feel genuine and personal. There is no sense, as is the case with other brands, that morals are used as a selling point, rather that sustainability is a nonnegotiable aspect of her personality, and by extension her creative practice. One gets the sense that, if she had not become a designer, McCartney’s strong sense of ethical purpose still would have filtered down to all aspects of her life. It’s a heartening prospect in an environment where greenwashing feels much more like a trend than a result of conscientiousness on the part of fashion houses.

You can read more of Em’s work on her Twitter @emponcia

McCartney - Hallucinogenic cut out top - £850

SEEUN KIM: The Oxford Collection 100 Jewellery Designer/Creative Director/Photographer: Seeun Kim @jewellery_studio_seeun / @art_studio_seeun

‘The Oxford Collection 100 Project’ is the Western version of Seeun Kim's previous ‘Silla Collection 100 Project’ and was inspired by the museums of Oxford.

Today, as quality of life improves for people across the world, the younger generation is becoming increasingly inclined towards expensive luxury goods; thus, expensive jewellery and ornaments have become a symbol of wealth or vanity. Seeun would like to communicate with people today, through this project, with the message that it is vital that we protect the cultural heritage of our ancestors. Then why the Oxford?

When she studied in Japan, she enjoyed travelling to the UK every spring break.

She was captivated by the jewellery exhibits in the museums in Oxford.

Furthermore, She is an Oxford-based artist in the UK.

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YVAN Fashion Designer: Emil Sabijon Besitulo @emil_sabijon_besitulo_couture Photographer: Armando Simpliciano @uno5ingco.ph Model: Yvan Kody @yvankodyofficiel

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: ELLIE Name: Ellie Rich (Eleonora Richardson) Age: 29 Location: USA,Colorado/International Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for?

I've been modelling for over 15 years, engaging in creative fashion/highend fashion, fine art and fantasy styled events and photo sessions from Europe and USA to the Dubai Desert.

Where are you from originally?

I was born in Ukraine.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

It's hard to know what is considered unusual nowadays. From the perspective of modelling - I can climb trees and hike mountains wearing dresses and high heels without trouble. Also, I can make an unusual, great-looking attire or dress out of anything available in the nearest proximity if there is a need for that.

What would surprise people to know about you?

There might be a few surprising things that people who don't know me well outside of my ventures as a model and a photographer might not be aware of. For example, I love horse riding and drift racing. I also enjoy sword fighting and shooting with various weapons, both modern and medieval.

What are your modelling ambitions?

Aside from modelling I also work as a Creative Director and a Photographer.

Currently, most of my ambitions and goals are shifting toward artistic, conceptual, meaningful and demanding projects that I initiate, direct and bring to life together with my husband Dillon Richardson. As a model, I only engage in projects that we create ourselves or those that I'm personally interested in. Through modelling and photography, I want to create more arts that would inspire people to be better, strive for higher quality and never settle for mediocre.

Photographer: Dillon Richardson @dillonfilmphoto Wardrobe Stylist/Creative Director/Model/Fashion Designer/Makeup Artist/Retoucher/Photographer: Ellie Rich @ellierich_artistry

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: ALEXANDRA B Name: Alexandra B Age: 27 Location: Bedford, England Agency: Buzz Talent How long have you been modelling for?

Because my dad is a photographer and he saw in me the talent to do it, I started modelling for fun and not professionally at young age (maybe 10/11). Then, in Summer 2021, I decided to do it full time.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?

I don't know if it is an unusual talent, but I can make a similar sound of a cat when hissing!

What would surprise people to know about you?

I suffer with a heart condition and severe anxiety.

What are your modelling ambitions?

Be featured on a well-known magazine cover.

Where are you from originally?

I was born in Perú (Lima), but when I was 7 years old I moved to Italy (Monza) with my family. However, when I was 17 years old, we decided to move to England (Bedford).

Photographers: David Fanning @_davidfphotography_ and Taylor Parker @indigoamoura Model: Alexis B @victoria_alexis.20

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RIVERSIDE STORY Models: Kirill Lukianenko @lukianenkokirill, Polina Makarova @polinmrkv Photographer: Serge Bazilic @sergebazilic Fashion Designer: Factura @factura.official Sunglasses: Prada, Komono

Image via Pexels

HOW PEOPLE STAYED COOL IN HISTORY PAGE 47

Image via Unsplash

Emily Fromant explores how our clothing in the summer months has changed over time.

VICTORIAN WOMEN WORE EIGHT LAYERS

“People who don’t learn from history are deemed to repeat it.” But what if there was something we could learn from our ancestors? Maybe not their medical practices, but there is some great inspiration for warm weather fashion that we need to explore.

We know from famous Victorian paintings that women’s fashion changed very little in the warmer months. Despite the scorching weather, Victorian ladies stayed in their complex outfits. This included various layers of petticoats, drawers, and bodices.

Women throughout history have taken on the sun in style. Whether it’s petticoats, floating sundresses, or the bohemian surge of the 1960s, there is some great fashion artistry throughout the decades that we simply can’t ignore.

So how did these women manage to survive the blistering warmth of summer? It was the fabric of the clothing itself. A breathable, light material that helped these women to keep cool. The fabric used was

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natural – cotton and linen. Thin fabrics breathe and keep you cool in the heat.

Outside of the breathable clothing, there was also a handy accessory to help women avoid the heat. Fans were popular during this time. They were made from lace, pearl, or bamboo. They allowed women to keep societal decorum, but also a small release from the warm weather.

There were also punkhas found in many Victorian kitchens and homes.

A form of fans popularised in the sixth century, they were usually manned by a servant or slave.

LONDON RUNWAY

THE RESORT WEAR Moving forward to the 1920s, this was the first time a distinct summer fashion began to emerge. Inspired by wealthy socialites and actresses who began to travel to warmer climates, resort wear was born.

Holidaying in many exotic locations became popular during the 19th Century, and so did loose dresses, linen trousers, and swimsuits. Resort wear was breathable and easy to wear, keeping the wealthy socialites cool during the new exotic climate. The shorts and matching tops, coupled with the bright bikinis were a perfect way to avoid overheating in style.

This fashion became synonymous with luxury and freedom. Women were inspired by their favourite celebrities, and shorts and boaters became a part of many wardrobes.

THE SUNDRESS Despite the new love for a looser, flowing clothing, the sundress wasn’t popular until the 1950s. There was a huge boom in fashion in the 50s, spurred by post-war emotion. This meant the more positive, bright sundress was a perfect choice.

The frivolous aspect of the dress was also welcomed. Many of these women has become more independent during World War II and felt they wanted to

express themselves more freely.

Lilly Putlitzer was a designer that was incredibly popular during this 1950s boom. Her brightly coloured sundresses were a perfect fit for the post-war woman. The less constricting style allowed more cool air to reach the body, helping to avoid the hot temperatures of the summer.

Furthermore, the lighter colours of the fabric assisted in absorbing less of the sun’s rays.

Due to the growing liberal attitudes, many women began to explore androgynous clothing. Many of these free-love women often wore men’s shirts, jeans, and jackets. This also meant women experimented more with more revealing clothing. A popular look at the time was the exposed midriff. Not only did the look showcase more liberal views, but it also kept women cooler in the summer sun.

Putlitzer’s clothing was also helped by celebrity clients. Much like resort wear, many women were inspired by famous women sporting these new sundresses. Prominent women such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Caroline Kennedy wore Putlizer’s designs.

Many people debate surrounding the political change of the 1960s free love movement. Whilst its ideological impact may have been small, there is no denying that its cultural change was immense. Not only did the clothing keep young people cool, but it was also a huge metaphor for the cultural revolution that was happening at the time.

THE 1960S BOHEMIAN The summer of 1967 caused a cultural shift throughout society. Deemed the Summer of Love, it marked the beginning of a cultural movement.

Young people were inspired to reject more conservative opinions and views, wanting a more open and liberal future.

Inspired by this search for freedom, a lot of the clothing began to be looser and more experimental. To fit the less conservative look, women opted for relaxed fits and flowing dresses. This looser clothing style helped the youth stay cool during their many protests.

Whilst it’s clear the way we have stayed cool has changed over the decades, women’s desire for experimentation has not. Throughout time clothing has constantly reflected our societies changing attitudes towards politics, war, and feminism.

Our warmer clothes have become less conservative, changing from the layers and layers of petticoats to the androgynous style of the 60s. Whilst our warm weather fashion is important in a practical sense, it is also clear that as our society changes and adapts, our clothing won’t be far behind.

You can read more of Emily's work on Instagram by following @emily._jf

Images via Unsplash and Canva

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LONDON RUNWAY

LIFESTYLE TRUNK SHOW

Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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AUTONOMY IN FASHION AND WHAT INFLUENCES OUR STYLE What makes fashion so great is its wide-ranging roster of styles to suit everyone regardless of your preferences. Amrit Virdi evaluates how much autonomy and choice we have over our style and what affects it.

Whether you’re partial to a bucket hat or a flower crown, everyone has their own individual sense of style. I’m the first to admit that my style is everchanging – the phases I have had range from wannabe-emo-tumblr-girlaesthetic, to bright block colours, to all-neutrals.

Especially in an era dominated by fast fashion attempting to serve people’s demands with quick turnarounds in the content available on their websites, I personally am finding it harder than ever to keep up with trends whilst also trying to maintain my own style.

It can be tempting to ditch what you truly want to wear in an effort to mirror what is prominent in the fashion world at the time. But what actually influences our own style, fashion trends, and what we choose to wear, and does this matter at the end of the day?

Recently, reality TV star Kim Kardashian revealed in Hulu docuseries ‘The Kardashians’ that following her divorce with rapper Kanye West, she is struggling to find her own style after he styled her for so many years. Episode Five titled ‘Who Is Kim K?’ reveals Kim stating: “Even now I’m having panic attacks, like ‘what do I wear’?”. Early seasons of ‘Keeping Up The Kardashians’ show Kanye clearing out Kim’s entire wardrobe and replacing it with only designers he approved of, which Kim had never heard of before.

And looking through Kim’s social media exhibits the extent to which the Yeezy founder had an influence over her fashion choices. Circa 2000s preKanye Kim embraced the bodycon dress, and the glitz and glam of the Hollywood nightlife scene, never seen without a pair of stilettos on her club appearances. Fast forward to the ‘Kimye’ era, and stone, black, or khakicoloured baggy tracksuits paired with sleek straight jet black hair were her daily go-to.

Being one of the most famous (now ex) couples in the world, the way that Kanye used Kim as his muse and his subsequent model truly shows the power that these celebrities have over fashion and fashion marketing.

Questionably styled red carpet looks, which ‘Keeping Up With The Kardashians’ documented as them

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portraying Kim being stylistically in sync with her partner at the time, are also symbolic of the huge impact that Kanye’s influence had upon Kim’s style.

And right now, post-divorce, Kim has empoweringly taken it upon herself to find her own style. The Image viaa Unsplash return of bodycon has been staple, as well as bright colours like the hot pink she donned on Saturday Night Live.

However, we aren’t all living like the Kardashians. The Kim K case study is a clear example of even celebrities themselves lacking full autonomy in their fashion choices, like everyday people.

After speaking to people of my own age, it is also clear that us regular people out of the spotlight face the

LONDON RUNWAY same pressures sometimes. ‘’I do find that the media influences my style a lot, especially with the number of fashiondedicated accounts on TikTok and Instagram,’’ said my housemate when I asked her what influences her style.

The rise of social media has led to an innovation in the way the world of fashion works nowadays. Slowly going are the days of being inspired by the mannequins on the high street, as commerce is becoming more accustomed to online means. Along with the unsustainable fast fashion brands perpetuating the ‘need’ for constantly keeping up with trends, leading to single use buys, TikTok shops and Instagram boutiques are becoming increasingly more popular.

Even I find myself subconsciously being influenced by the clothes I may see on the ‘products’ page of my Instagram, which I have come to find mirrors what those in the public eye may wear.

This does not have to be your traditional celebrity in the form of a singer or actor; the rise of influencer culture has more impact on trends nowadays than the glitz and glam of red-carpet glamour.

And influencers are, quite literally, everywhere, even walking the red carpets of the BRIT Awards as we saw this year. More and more we also see them wearing more affordable brands than those on the A-List at the Met Gala. Motel Rocks is one of these.

By consistently partnering with the likes of Flossie and Olivia Neill, both of whom I am a loyal viewer of, brands big and small have seemingly mastered the art of getting their clothes out there and bought.

The influencer marketing strategy has clearly had a profound effect on lessening the autonomy that we have over our fashion choices.

I must admit, I do on occasion end up buying the exact same pieces that I see on Instagram. My ‘Amrit’ necklace, bought from Lucky Eleven as a clone of the one Olivia Neill has, is now a daily go-to in my jewellery box.

Motel Rocks even have a ‘Shop Insta’ section on their website – on which the majority of items sell out extremely fast.

If this doesn’t convince you enough of the profound effect that the media and influencer culture has had on the fashion world, just look at the carefully curated feeds of fashionbased Instagram accounts. Almost every item of clothing is carefully matched to their aesthetic, and is tagged so viewers know where to buy it from. Who needs TV to tell you what to wear when you have Instagram?

For those unplugged from the mediadriven world, and summative of the human tendency to compare and copy in general, our upbringing and the fashion of those who we spend time with is highly influential upon our style choices.

Culture, country, continent, and even music taste has subconscious effects on our style. After all, bucket hats and festival wellies at Reading and Leeds are far from the fashion you may see at Coachella. Fashion is a form of expression and varies around the world in beautiful ways, and using it as a way to reflect your roots can be a form of art.

Having said this, feeling pressured to change your style to fit in with a group or even to match trends at the time is a feeling some of us may know all too well, yet it is a feeling that needs to be curbed. Fast fashion plays on one’s innate need to ‘want want want’ whatever is popular at the minute. This is incredibly unsustainable and leads to huge wastages, and unethical conditions for workers trying to keep up with demand. Yet given the fact that this may be the case, even walking around the streets reveals that everyone has their own spin on their sense of style, as the 21st century has led to people feeling more and more able to express themselves.

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If we had no autonomy over our fashion sense, then arguably everyone would look exactly the same; embracing your own style and individuality is key, especially in a world where the ability to personalise your look is at your fingertips.

At the end of the day, what does it mean if we lack full control over our fashion choices? As mentioned before, fashion is an integral part of everyday life, and mirrors what we see in society, and who in the media has the most influence over us.

On her quest to find ‘who is Kim K?’, Kim Kardashian based her journey around her clothes after being styled by someone else for so long. While the media and those around us can be great for fashion inspo, keeping true to who you really are is essential – it is great to admire the fashion of those you may see, but copying it for the sake of it if it isn’t you is not beneficial at all.

Though the fashion we see around us may be easy to be influenced by, maintaining autonomy and your own style is essential.

You can read more of Amrit’s work via her portfolio, amritvirdi.journoportfolio.com, or by following her Instagram @thevinylwriter.

WIN!

ENTER VIA OUR INSTAGRAM @LONDONRUNWAYMAG!

A PAIR OF TICKETS TO SOUL CIRCUS 2022

AUGUST 2022 GLOUSTERSHIRE

SOUL CIRCUS

Escape to Soul Circus, where wellbeing meets music at this holistic yoga and wellness festival set in the rural Cotswold countryside.

Soul Circus is a wellbeing festival where music, movement and holistic therapies meets glittery festival antics and DJ after parties. It is set to return to it's beautiful home in the Cotswold hills of Elmore, Gloucestershire in 2022. Stretch out in yoga tipis and lush countryside by day and dance under the stars by night.

Masters of yoga host sunrise sessions, aerial classes, and mindfulness workshops by day. At night DJ's set the skies alight with thrilling shows and exhilarating music.

Rethink festival food with a menu of locally sourced and nutritious produce in the renowned market kitchen and foodie vendors. Then open champagne and admire the festival's stunning surroundings from your lakeside jacuzzi.

You have two tickets to bring you and a freind to Soul Circus 2022. We can't wait to have you!

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Terms and Conditions: Tickets are non transferrable. You will not be getting a physical ticket, but rather a digital ticket OR be put on a guest list. Once you win, you will be contacted by Soul Circus directly to confirm your tickets, the name of your plus one, and answer any questions you might have. The following is included in your ticket: entrance to the festival, all fitness classes (with an exception of aerial as those must be prebooked and paid for), parking, camping spot. For FAQs, follow this link: https://www.soulcircus.yoga/faq

LONDON RUNWAY

HOUSE of iKONS Part 3

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

ATHEA COUTURE

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BC MUNICH

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Postcode Fashion

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SWAG. HQ

ANCIELA

Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

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Horizon Athletic Atlanta One Piece Ivory Red £105

STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc

Adidas Swim tight 3 stripe swimming trunks £33

Selia Richwood Coral Swimsuit £200

Kymina Eva £75

COLLUSION swim brief in black £9.99

Aulala Paris Independent - Iconic £55

Calvin Klein All over print swim shorts in black £55

Aulala Paris Mlle Vagabonde £65

Oceanus Swimwear Callie Swimsuit Fuschia (two strap) £280

Calvin Klein Pride rainbow swim shorts in multi £60

Oceanus Swimwear Callie Co-ord Pink £400

Tommy Hilfiger signature swim shorts in teal co-ord £65

Aggi Nola Matt Black Suit £210

Sarah and Sorrentino Stripe Swimsuit £45

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Jack & Jones Intelligence swim shorts in bright green £15

NEW BUSINESS MAD

Name of company: MAD (@______.mad.______) Type of business: Independent Contemporary Womenswear Label Location: London, UK

What are your company values?

The main value is respect of your roots and of the cultures that you embrace during your life, translating them into wearable stories. Most of the garments are no-size and reversible, made with stretchy fabrics that can fit different people, with pleated materials, adjustable strings, or elasticated details.

How long has the company been running?

1 Year Where did the idea come from?

MAD was born from the need to show people what it meant to live in different places at the same time. At the time I was studying in Milan and travelling every month to London to see my boyfriend, and to my hometown Jesi, in the centre of Italy, to see my family. My nomad way of living is very usual for my generation and I thought that many others could share the feelings of positive chaos. This chaos, or instability sometimes, has made me realise how every place I lived belonged to me, but on the other hand, I have never belonged to any of them. I was part of all of them at the same time and the cultures and traditions of each place made the person that I am now, I really feel lucky and enriched by it.

Currently, how many people work for the business?

It’s just me at the moment, I am hoping to grow and get more talented and exciting people on board soon.

I am driven by an ethical approach, destroying the idea of fast fashion and mass production, rejecting waste and unethical worker conditions. I collaborated with fabric mills or shops to use leftovers and I recycled, bleached, and manipulated my grandma's old furs to mix vintage and contemporary style.

What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business?

Just go for it. Things will adjust with time and with the right customer target and market position. Until you try, you will never know if it’s the right thing to do.

Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time?

I hope I will be able to make this idea into a real business. The customers are the main focus and my dream is to take care of them, working together to achieve the perfect garment, highlighting their story and letting them feel part of a family.

Inclusivity is all we need in these strange times.

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LONDON RUNWAY

UNIVERSITY OF EAST LONDON Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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Designers: Omotoyosi Adekoya Gaius Nwaiwu Jack Murphy Elizabeth Abimbola Majiyagbe Kelly Ros Botero Adetutu Owodunni Mary Emebeyo Letizia Miceli Ivaylo Evtimov Angel Guadines Maria Dumitriu Erin Strange Jovi-el Paul Hemercia Quintas

LONDON RUNWAY

BOOK CLUB

Homegoing

BY YAA GYASI

Each month, our resident book club reviews a new must-read volume that will help to educate, inform, entertain, and thrill you. This week, Kwabena Gyane reviews Ghanaian-American Yaa Gyasi’s 2016 debut novel, Homegoing.

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LONDON RUNWAY “…we have a saying about separated sisters. They are like a woman and her reflection, doomed to stay on opposite sides of the pond.”

Yaa Gyasi opens her debut historical fiction novel Homegoing with an Akan proverb about family: The family is like the forest: if you are outside, it is dense; if you are inside, you see that each tree has its own position.

She immediately establishes that the essence of the book, Homegoing, is a story that centres on family, and it does so exceptionally.

The first two chapters focus on Effia and Esi, sisters who find themselves in starkly different situations. Effia becomes the wife of slave trader James Collins while Esi, kidnapped from her home, is enslaved to be shipped to America. The following chapters alternate between their descendants, never missing a generation.

The reader meets several colourful characters - like Ness, Esi’s daughter who gets taken away from her and learns to embody her mother’s hardness of spirit. Then there’s Yaw, Effia’s great-great-great-grandson who is scarred as a baby when his mother sets fire to their home. Each branch faces challenges that are distinct, based on their location, from the Fugitive Slave Act and the heroin epidemic in America to the tribal wars and missionaries in Ghana.

Through it all, Gyasi shows the power of family. It is a rock and whether this acts as a steady source of strength or a barrier depends on a character’s perception.

The characters are the strongest aspect of Homegoing. Gyasi gives them nuance, moulding them with such care that they ultimately come alive, breathed into existence with her words.

In a saga that spans seven generations, it was bound to be a challenge to get readers invested in characters we would only focus on for a brief period.

To prevent disjointedness and establish coherency, predecessors appear in the current protagonist’s chapter, whether physically or in flashbacks. This could have easily been a failure if Gyasi did not establish how and why characters we previously followed end up in their current situation when the point of view shifts.

An excellent example is Esi. In her chapter, Esi experiences several traumatic events that scar her, with the final ones being her rape and losing her mother’s stone just as she is taken to a slave ship. When we are reintroduced to her again, albeit as a memory from her daughter Ness, we understand why she is extremely different from the sweet girl at the beginning of her own chapter.

Loss, love, and longing: a key triumvirate that Gyasi expertly weaves into all 14 chapters of Homegoing. She merges the three in such a manner it becomes nigh impossible to encounter one without the other two not a sentence or paragraph away.

Effia’s lineage produces the most intriguing moments, perhaps due to the novelty of their points of view.

Not many literary works focus on Ghana and the events shaped it. This, however, does not take away from the intensity of the chapters that focus on Esi’s descendants, which present situations that are more recognisable to a Western audience.

To lose something you love means you will long for it and each character is submerged into these themes, none coming out as they were prior. This can be seen as a blessing or a curse.

Loss is evidently the most potent driving force in Homegoing. Even when loss occurs because of one’s own volition, as we see with James’ abnegation of the throne, there are still adverse outcomes. This we bear witness to when Gyasi transitions to his daughter Abena’s point of view.

Gyasi does not shy away from the dehumanisation and brutality tribes displayed towards one another prior to Europeans stepping foot onto the sandy beaches of the country. In Esi’s chapter, she had witnessed an elder say, “Northerners…are not even people. They are the dirt that begs for spit”. Gyasi expertly pairs dehumanising language with an elder, someone who is respected in the community, to highlight just how pervasive the situation was.

The theme of loss is made more profound when interlocked with love. This is, after all, not just a story about family - hence familial love but also people coming together in some chapters to pursue romantic love and produce descendants that we as readers will soon follow. Gyasi illustrates how love can sometimes battle the sense of loss beautifully when Abena talks about how James stares at her mother and whispers, “Akosua, you are my one and only”.

In James’ chapter, Nana Yaa talks of how Europeans contributed to this violence using a captivating analogy: “…the Gold Coast was like a pot of groundnut soup…the Asantes, were the broth…the Fantes, were the groundnuts, and the many other nations…made up the meat and pepper and vegetables. This pot was already full to the brim before the white men came and added fire”.

Throughout Homegoing, the wrongdoings of compatriots and colonisers invade the lives of Maame’s descendants and Gyasi never lets the reader forget them.

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Longing is the glue that brings the triad together. Gyasi utilises flashbacks to allow the characters to long for their love and their loss whether it be Quey’s attraction to Cudjo or Ness’s loss of her husband, Sam, and her son, Kojo.

The motifs of fire and water, with their elemental polarity, are presented as effective tools in Gyasi’s literary arsenal, allowing her to touch on an array of themes. These motifs are found in all chapters; however, Gyasi skilfully avoids repetition, making sure that whenever the reader meets these motifs once more, they feel familiar yet fresh.

Fire with all its connotations in Homegoing is presented primarily as a destructive force, be it the burning of yams that brings turmoil to a household or the unpleasant memory of a former plantation. Gyasi continuously places fire in this light. It is the source of trauma for many characters and two (Akua and Yaw) wear it in the form of scars.

Akua says it best when she talks to Yaw about the suffering she caused, which ultimately cast a shadow over his life and “the children [he has] yet to have”. Marjorie and Marcus, who suffer from pyrophobia and aquaphobia, respectively, take steps in the final chapter to overcome the elements that have plagued their lineage for generations in one form or another. This is excellent imagery used by Gyasi to illustrate that these two descendants are starting to break free from the trauma they did not ask to bear, showing a bright future is in store for their successors. Their trauma finally starts to erode in the very place it shackled their ancestors: home.

You can read more of Kwabena's work at clippings.me/users/kwabenagyane , whereifoundmyeyes.com/ and @whereifoundmyeyes on Instagram.

Gyasi does no such thing with water; it is allowed to exist in its duality. It is the North Atlantic Ocean, which is the literal barrier that separates Esi from her homeland, and the forced baptism Abena experiences. It is the South Atlantic Ocean Marjorie and Marcus briefly swim in when they visit Ghana.

Water, unlike fire, is presented as being both tragic and hopeful. It is what separated the family tree and what brings the last descendants together.

Homegoing, at its root, is about family and generational trauma, how the burdens and pains of predecessors latch onto their successors, an inheritance that they pass on to their children whether mammoth or minute.

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Page-Turner:

Complexity:

Storyline:

RED THREADS

Photographer: Andrey Lukovnikov @lukovnikov.photo Makeup Artist: Inna Torbunova @torina1 Creative Director: Ekaterina Lukovnikova @chicken__traveler Model: Diana Afitserava @fiammadia

Wardrobe: Dress - H&M

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

LONDON RUNWAY

MODEST FASHION LIVE

MAYOVERA

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Designed by ‘Mayovera’

FARRAH NAAZ

VANS CREATION

"

JANE WATSON

SUMAYAH

HIYA

THE REAL EFFECT OF LOVE ISLAND BREAKING UP WITH FAST FASHION This week, Ruth explores the brand new series of Love Island and their decision to break up with the fast fashion industry.

Love Island is back for the summer, and I could not be more excited. The time has come for beautiful singles across the UK to pack their suitcases, splash out on the sunscreen, and pop open a bottle of prosecco as they enter the incredible villa.

Set in sunny Mallorca, the islanders will be living there for up to eight weeks, whilst being filmed under twenty-four hour supervision. The hit reality TV show has one simple purpose; to survive on the island, to potentially make it to the live final and win £50,000, you must couple up with someone. Whether that is for love or friendship, the islanders have no choice but to find someone they connect with enough to choose them at the famous recouplings, in order to last through the show. If they are left single, they are dumped from the island immediately.

Of course, whilst doing so, these twenty-somethings stay in a luxury villa, spending their days sunbathing and nights partying beneath a thousand fairy lights, and obviously, flirting and ‘doing bits’ with the other hot islanders.

It’s basically a free holiday where you can meet the love of your life if you’re lucky. So it’s no wonder that over 100,000 people applied to be on this year’s show. Not to mention that when the first show of season eight went live on Monday the 6th of June, five million people turned their televisions

All images via Instagram

on to watch the drama.

It seems like a dream opportunity.

Eight seasons in, we all know now that being a contestant on Love Island promises you more than just a banging tan. The people chosen to be on the show find themselves with hundreds of thousands of followers on social media.

Stars like Molly-Mae Hague and Amber Gill became millionaires just months after leaving the reality TV show. It is expected that those who reach the final will return to the UK with a verified tick on their Instagram handles, and popular fashion brands like Boohoo and Pretty Little Thing signing them to model their own collections. It’s a creative industry that young people would find incredibly hard to resist.

But, Love Island is not without its controversies. Not only have there been serious mental health issues intertwined with the show and its content, but in recent years, environmentalists and those opposed to fast fashion have rightfully been upset over the show’s connections to unsustainable clothing brands.

From 2019-2021, Love Island was sponsored by ISAWITFIRST, a fast fashion brand founded by Jalal Kamani, the co-founder of Boohoo. This meant that the brand provided an entire new wardrobe for every single contestant in the villa, which they could simultaneously sell online to consumers. For those three seasons, there were a total of a hundred and five islanders in the villas. That is a lot of clothes. All were designed and created unethically, with one of the worst environmental reports.

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But the desired effect was reached. In the 2019 season, Yewande Biala wore a white floral dress on her first date with contestant Danny Williams which sold out on their website immediately, and had to be restocked several times. That same year, as Molly-Mae Hague and Tommy Fury reached their final date, the bright yellow dress she wore was sold to 2,000 people within ten minutes of her wearing it on screen. This meant a major boost in sales and attraction for the fashion brand.

But this year, it seems Love Island has had a change of heart, and has broken up with fast fashion. They have partnered with eBay UK for the 2022 series, in the hopes of promoting sustainable fashion. eBay UK has focused their brand to become one of the biggest online retailers of pre-loved fashion, with a rise of one piece of clothing being sold every second so far this year. It is their belief that consumers are becoming more aware of fast fashion and its consequences, and have been interested in selecting more environmentally appropriate designs.

”This year, the islanders have a shared wardrobe in the famous dressing room, where they can select preloved designs that best suit their personal style and promote the importance of sustainability. In the first week we saw the original islander, Amber Beckford, wearing an emerald green, plunge-neck shirt dress that she brought from home.

Similarly, contestant Tasha Ghouri chose to wear a vintage Champion varsity jacket one night, provided exclusively by eBay UK. Former star Afia Tonkmor wore a pale pink corset from House of CB via eBay UK. It is proof that these beautiful islanders can re-wear fashion and still make a statement.

Fast fashion is one of the biggest problems in the entire industry. It is a term that describes the creation of designs that are produced cheaply and quickly, before being sold in extremely high quantities. It focuses on the current trends, which can be bought for low prices. This is obviously a very attractive promise for consumers. But the problem is that such a fast production of said fashion has dangerous consequences for the environment, especially as the majority of clothes are returned every year; the returns market for fast fashion was worth £4.2 billion last year, with most of it ending up in landfill.

Eve Williams, the chief marketing officer at eBay UK, had this to say: “We’re excited to be partnering with Love Island this year, as the show’s first pre-loved fashion partner and to flip the conversation around fashion. As one of the original homes of pre-loved, we believe that by joining forces with this incredibly influential programme, we’ll inspire the nation to think differently and make more conscious choices when it comes to their wardrobes. Whether that is selling a dress that is sitting at the back of their wardrobe or shopping for their favourite islanders’ second-hand looks - these small changes can make a big difference to driving circularity.

All images via Instagram

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Since leaving the villa, he has been an advocate for sustainable fashion, even going so far as to attend a protest outside the Pretty Little Thing catwalk show earlier this year. He was quoted as saying: “With this cause, I'm drawn to the people who are exploited sustainable fashion is about the planet, but I really have empathy towards the people within the story as they're often overlooked.” It was a stand that evoked the desire for change in thousands of his Instagram followers, who expressed their support for the cause.

There is also the issue of fast fashion brands using severe manual labour in order to produce their clothes. In 2020, Pretty Little Thing was accused of modern slavery after it was uncovered that they were only paying their workers £3.50 an hour at a factory in Leicester.

Brett Staniland, a contestant on Love Island 2021, has been particularly vocal about the dangers fast fashion possesses. He reportedly refused the £500 voucher provided by ISAWITFIRST via the producers before entering the villa, and only wore the clothes he brought from home.

Staniland, who was a model and part of the fashion industry before his Love Island entrance, claimed that it was his career that influenced this decision.

All images via Instagram

Love Island eradicating fast fashion this year is a huge step forward, and one that will certainly hold tremendous influence. With millions of people watching the reality TVshow every night, there is so much potential for real change. Even something as simple as Love Island choosing a new sponsor has evoked the promise to redesign our thoughts about consumerism and fast fashion as a whole, as well as showing us that it is perfectly fine to re-wear our clothes this summer.

When looking at these islanders showcasing their clothes from home, or those supplied by eBay UK, we can see that they look just as beautiful and stylish as if the designs were new, and that we can do the same. Just knowing that our choices this summer can be environmentally friendly and completely sustainable is the best look of all. And the stars of Love Island can return to the UK knowing that they have redefined the true meaning of influencing.

You can read more of Ruth’s work by following her on Instagram @thewriterruth.

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LONDON RUNWAY

JULIA CLANCEY

Photography by Ian Clark @photo.by.ian

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LONDON RUNWAY

GLOWING Model: Anna Lyakhova at Unique Models UK @theangel_anna Photographer: Dylan Keith @dylannkeith Makeup Artist: Merveille @somerveille Wardrobe: Earrings - Prada; Necklace - Swarovski

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With "warmer-than-average" temperatures to come, according to the Met Office, heatwaves are expected throughout this UK summer. Combat the heat with these fashionable swimwear pieces handpicked for each sign!

Aries March 21 - April 20

Alice Bikini Bottom and Top - Rixo 80s inspired, this bikini in Rixo’s Sea Life print will have an Aries running to the beaches in high spirits. The playful print and comfortability will keep their energy and fun lasting all summer!

Taurus April 21 - May 21

Rajalin Swimsuit - Fisch UV protective and sustainable, this Caribbean Blue swimsuit is perfect for Tauruses! The zigzag cut-out in the front adds that bit of Summer fun to their casual aesthetic.

Gemini May 22- June 21

Lena Nile - Hunza G The one-shoulder neckline and formflattering waist cut-out design is sure to get Geminis looking fabulous and playful. With the bright yellow colour as well, they’ll be standouts at the beach!

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Cancer June 22- July 22 Annika - Rixo Vintage, feminine, and stylish, these words describe both Cancers and this swimsuit.

Combine them both and you’ll get the perfect duo!

Leo July 23- August 21 Elise Top and Bottom - Rixo It doesn’t take much for the stunning Leo to draw eyes to them.The subtle, yet eyecatching, swirl detail of this bikini set will make their charismatic presence and style unmissable.

Virgo August 22- September 23 Recycled Stretch Swimsuit - Matteau "Simple and considered", this swimsuit and its creation story match the ethos of Virgos to a T. Both are elegant, practical, and classic staples that never go out of style!

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LONDON RUNWAY

Libra September 24- October 23

Juno - Hunza G Libras love their pastels for all seasons!

This blush bikini set features a twist-front top and high-cut briefs, allowing for fun and comfort with flair.

Scorpio

October 24- November 22

Seaquest - Medina With adjustable buckle straps and a deep V neck, Scorpios will love this chic one-piece.

It’s a powerful statement piece that doesn’t overdo it, synonymous with this sign’s personality.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Positano Hotchpotch Swimsuit - Boden Although the mix of patterning and colours are a bit out of this sign’s fashion comfort zone, they’ll quickly fall in love with how versatile and durable this one-piece is. It will match with any of their Summer travel destinations!

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Verne - Medina The open back and low-cut design accentuates the figure of a Capricorn, providing a sculpted silhouette. The adjustable buckle straps and expert craftsmanship also allows this piece to be worn for many vacation holidays to come!

Aquarius January 21 - February 19

Elba Tie Halterneck Swimsuit - Boden “Lean into this swimsuit's vibe with massive sunglasses, an even bigger hat, and a book you'd be embarrassed to take on public transport.” Taken from the site’s own description, you can be sure to see Aquarians sporting this look without question!

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Scoop Back Swimsuit - Ayla Simple, elegant, and flattering, Pisceans donning this swimsuit will most likely be mistaken for mermaids in the ocean, with the almost watercolour-like design is reminiscent of coral reefs!

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers

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BA FASHION DESIGN GRADUATE

UNIVERSITY OF WESTMINSTER

LONDON RUNWAY

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

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Designers: Yani B Haemin Lily Willan Grace Kwon Steph Birtles Lucy Higgens Christy Higgs Eduardo Moreira Maya Magnay Owen Edward Snaith Mei Hewgill Nahnah by Hannah Salmon Jiao Xie Sarah Dowle

Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

What's Your Getting Ready Music?

"Anything by Megan Thee Stallion gives me that confidence to start my day"

&

– Damisola Sulaiman, Writer

"Bon-Jovi Livin' on a prayer. There is a Bon-Jovi's song for any mood" - Fil Mazzarino, Lead Photographer

"MATERIAL GIRL, MADONNA" – Ruth Croft, Writer

"Even though it's old now, I still love Gotta Feeling by Black Eyed Peas.

Makes me feel 18 again!!"

"HAS TO BE JOESEF THINKING OF YOU" - Amber Johnson, PA

– Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

Electric Cool by Hyper Hyper – Jared Rehal, Operations Manager

"drunk on myself by anees!

A great confidence booster and all-around vibe!

- Candice Wu, editorial assistant

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

NEXT: THE PURPLE ISSUE THE SUMMER ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT E.MACBEAN BY FIL MAZZARINO