London Runway Issue 76 - The Purple Issue by London Runway

FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY VOTES . DISCO FASHION . TONGORO . YEAR OF MAGICAL THINKING . UKRAINE WAR

UEL . AFW GRACE JONES MELTDOWN . WESTMINSTER MA . LIFESTYLE . PURPLE BEAUTY AND FASHION LOOKS

ISSUE 76 27TH JULY 2022

THE PURPLE ISSUE

RRP £12.99

LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Tongxin Li (Diana)

STAFF SPOTLIGHT each issue, meet a new team member!

Staff Writers: Ruth Croft Advertising enquiries - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Bruno Jorge, Louis Cleary, Amrit Virdi, Emily Poncia, Kwabena Gyane, Darren O'Reilly, Duska Dragosava, Olga Nesset, Nataliya Nasonova, Clara Hill, Chelsea Sanders, Marina Shipova, Arezoo Jalali, Kaitlyn Kaylee Brown, Viktoriia Sporykhina, Milisa Sporykhina, Uğur Kayan, Mert Ordu Yaşar, TOĞAN KUTER EREN, Adam Beniston, Mel Wright, , Kanadel, Siqi Li, Siyuan Wang, Bowen Shen, Bai Liu, Martina Kottová, Uan Chen, Inna Marinina, Natalia Avseyushkina, Cropp, Silvia Pola Lopete, Lina Urbeliene, Sandra Owie, Gary Odufeso, Samrah Ibrahim, Naomi Davis, Maria Castro Paredes, Martina Kottová, Jarka Hrnčárková, Barbora ŠIklová, Jarka Šnajberková, Hannah Whittaker, Komal Nasir, MD’s Studio, Mehr Khan, Mohsin Naveed Ranjha, Purple Haze, Sarah Z, Marie Von Bose, Sina Loos, Jull Sakhatskiy, Julia Sakhatskiy, Sina Lous, Chevon Le Blanc, Angela Onorato, Donatella Onori, Julia Agba, Hafsa Khanum, Maya Burrows, Soboye, Sista by Eyoro X Adire Oodua Textile Hub, Mary Martin London, Kalikas Armour, Elfreda Dali, Adebayo Jones, Alice Brightmore, Fanni Flora, Henics, Jesse Lee, Na Yeon Kim, Georgia Wilson, Juoyu Wang, Jasmine Thompson, Qian Sun (Eric), Marcus Wood, Fangfang Rao Phoii, Hsuantsai Chou (Herra), Guangyu Li, Yuhao Wu (Felipe), Lingshan Fan, Lyric Reid.

小云岫岫

Special thanks to Maxine Griffiths at The Model Workshops & House of iKons Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk © 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2021 ambassador is Robert Keene.

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My name is Amrit Virdi and I am so excited to join London Runway as an intern! I am currently a student. I have just completed my undergraduate degree in English and History, and I am going on to study a Magazine Journalism MA in September. I do a lot of journalism in my spare time, mostly in the music realm, and a fun fact about me is that I help to run an all-female Formula One podcast! I am very excited to delve into fashionbased writing during my time at London Runway.

CONTENTS

74 VISUALS

43 Africa Fashion Week: Grace Jones Meltdown

Face of London Runway 2022 Finalists

University of Westminster Menswear MA Fashion Design

111

Summer Heat (Editorial)

London Runway Virtual Festival

121

New Faces

WORDS

Portfolio Piece

Mel Wright (Editorial)

Memories of Jiangnan (Editorial)

Watercolour (Editorial)

Jin Shan: The Cycle of Life (Editorial)

Style (Conscious) Guide: Lilac, Lavender, Violet

Summer Trend (Editorial)

University of East London Presentation

Face of London Runway 2022: the Final

The Impact of the War in Ukraine on the Fashion Industry

A Deep Dive into Disco Fashion and its Legacy

The Top Five Iconic Fashion Stars From the Most Popular Teen Drama Shows

New Business: Uan Chen

Book Club: The Year of Magical Thinking by Joan Didion

Lilac Dreams (Cover Editorial)

Tongoro: Creativity, Culture, Connection

Lifestyle Trunk Show Part 2

Your Style Horoscope

107

Greek Goddess (Editorial)

The Big Question

122

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Wow, what a month! I’m writing this editor’s letter in the middle of a huge heatwave which has brought the country almost to a halt. Right at the same time as a change of leadership, too. And with Covid cases back on the rise again, it seems you can’t decide where to look first when opening up a news app or site. So much is going on – so, I hope our readers are all safe and well during this time.

Runway Virtual Festival, another of the biggest events in our annual calendar. You can check out a poster with some information about what to expect next month towards the back of the magazine, and of course we’ll be sharing all about it in the lead-up on social media too. Do join us and hang out for a festival of digital knowledge and learning, entertainment, demonstrations, and more!

For us here at London Runway, it’s also been a huge month. We’ve just held the semi-final of our annual Face of London Runway competition, which this year was even bigger and better than previous occasions. You’ll be able to read all about it, as well as seeing the finalists, over the next pages. Rest assured, though, that it was a very hot event and we were suffering just like all of you!

Finally, I’d like to spend some space here in this letter talking about Disability Pride Month, which has been taking place throughout July. I don’t often find the room to talk about my own disability but it’s something that I’ve grown to accept and embrace over the years as my fibromyalgia symptoms have increased.

It’s important to take time and think about the fact that society is not really set up for disabled people yet – which is Now that we’re onto the final, make sure an awful fact, considering that almost you check out our Instagram and go everyone will end up disabled at some ahead to vote for your favourite models point in their lives. If you’re lucky, it will at @londonrunwaymag. There you’ll be when you’re elderly, but many of us also find some behind the scenes shots are trying to make our way in a world and videos as well as the ones you’ll find that makes things unnecessarily difficult in these pages! for us at all ages. Coming up next we have our London

Runway aimed at including the disabled community. We feature disabled models and cover inclusive fashion shows whenever we are invited to them, which is always a treat. If you or someone you know has a visual impairment or difficulties which make it hard to read written text, did you know you can listen to almost all of our articles via our podcast? London Runway Style is available on most audio platforms (including Spotify, for example) and we also have some exclusive content there above and beyond what you can read in the magazine. We’d love to hear your thoughts on it! In the meantime, this month I’m wearing purple with pride and celebrating the colour throughout this issue, which is jam-packed with lilac looks, amethyst articles, and plum photos for you. Enjoy -

We have a few initiatives here at London

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2022:

THE FINAL

Rhiannon D’Averc introduces the finalists for the Face of London Runway 2022 – and how we reached this point. After a long journey whittling down 800 entrants to just 10, we’re here at last: the final round of the Face of London Runway 2022. If you’ve missed all the excitement so far, here’s how it all happened! Back in May, an entry form appeared on our website, allowing entrants to submit photographs, videos, and their essential details. We also put the word out via a few different casting sites across the width and breadth of the internet, but everyone had to submit the same materials to make it through. In our first round, we heard from 800 applicants– excluding the one who managed to somehow sneak in AFTER we’d shut down the form and removed all public links to it… we enjoyed the ninja skills, but rules are rules! The homes of our applicants ranged from Australia, to Nigeria, to Myanmar, to Canada and the US, to Italy, to Belgium, and of course, to right across the UK.

We narrowed this list down to the most promising people to go ahead to our virtual round. Across nine group Zoom calls, Rhiannon and Maxine Griffiths met the top 90 entrants we had chosen to go through, asked them some questions about their modelling experience and goals, and put them through their paces with a virtual walk at home. We chatted with people from all around the world and from all walks of life, and plenty of invaluable advice was dispensed! It was brutal to try to cut down the list, but we made it – just 40 of the models were invited to our semi-final event in Wood Green. At MAAD vegan café, we captured three shots of each model according to a specific set of briefs. You’ll see the shots of our finalists on the next few pages! Our talented staff photographers were behind the lenses. Ian Clark took headshot-style portraits, Fil Mazzarino was on hand to capture some Old Hollywood glamour, and Mrityunjoy Mitra finished them off with a colourful fullbody portrait to showcase their personalities! When we were all done with pictures,

Maxine put the contestants through their paces on the catwalk together with a workshop which gave every single attending model a chance to develop and improve their runway walk. Throughout the day, Rhiannon also captured videos of each model – and all of this was assisted in no small part by our team members Amber Johnson and Kwabena Gyane! It was a fun day with a lot of great work put in, and everyone battled valiantly against the oppressive heat of the sun during London’s incredible heatwave. We were so lucky not to be holding the semi-final even a couple of days later, when the hot weather might have prevented us from going ahead, but we made it through in style! After all was said and done, we had a huge group of talented and gorgeous models – all of whom had potential as finalists. But when it came down to the wire, we had to make some extremely difficult choices. Only ten of them could make it through to the final round. Five entrants in the womenswear

LONDON RUNWAY category, and five in the menswear category. What a difficult decision it was – but we finally made it!

WOMENSWEAR

MENSWEAR

In alphabetical order only, they are…

RHIANNON BARBER

FLINN ANDREAE

MARYPRECIOUS IKE

KYLE CATTELL

SHANA PLATT

MG GRAZYS

JULIAN SYLVESTER

SAINEY KANTEH

ROSANNA WILD

MARC LONDON

PIPPA WINN

PEMMY OPEAYE

So, what happens next? You can see the final images for our top ten finalists over the coming pages. You’ll also find them on Instagram and Facebook, posted individually from the 28th July. We’ll be opening the vote to you, members of the public and our readers, to hit ‘like’ on the finalist that you’d love to see win. We’ll end up with one womenswear winner and one menswear winner, with two runners-up in each category, based on a combination of your votes (50%) with our judging scores (50%).

And we can tell you, it’s all very tight –there’s a lot to play for here! In both 2020 and 2019, the winners really came down to the line - we had such a close run on the public vote that the judge’s score tipped the winner into first place. Last year, we had a huge upset with some disqualifications, leaving those who thought they had no chance suddenly facing a shot at the victory. This means that every single vote really counts!

They’ll be getting an exclusive cover shoot with us, help with their modelling career over the next year, and invaluable advice from Maxine via The Model Workshops to allow them to develop their skills.

The vote will close on the 20th August and you’ll be able to meet the winners in our next issue!

And don’t forget to check out @the_model_workshops to see what our judge Maxine is up to!

Over the coming weeks, be sure to check up on @londonrunwaymag to see more of the stunning shots which we couldn’t possibly fit in these pages.

RHIANNON BARBER

MARYPRECIOUS IKE

SHANA PLATT

JULIAN SYLVESTER

ROSANNA WILD

PIPPA WINN

FLINN ANDREAE

KYLE CATTELL

MG GRAZYS

SAINEY KANTEH

MARC LONDON

PEMMY OPEAYE

LONDON RUNWAY

THE IMPACT OF THE WAR IN UKRAINE ON THE FASHION INDUSTRY Images via Canva

Em Poncia explores how the Ukraine War might impact fashion – beyond the obvious and horrible impact on the lives of those living in the country. When the news broke that Russia had invaded Ukraine on February 24th 2022, shockwaves were felt worldwide. Now, nearly five months later, as the bloody conflict in that region rages on, unaffected countries continue to try and find ways to support Ukraine. The most terrible consequences have been felt by people living and working in Ukraine, but perhaps looking at the war’s wider consequences in a global context can shed light on the nature of the conflict as something which involves not just the two warring countries, but has material and ethical concerns for all.

Sanctions and Sales Following Putin’s decision to invade, a series of international sanctions were imposed on Russia as signifiers of support for Ukraine. Russian banks were banned, the international bank Swift ceased operations there, and many countries ceased buying Russian oil. Specifically related to the garment industry, high street and luxury brands also stopped operating as an indication of solidarity. This withdrawal is perhaps the most tangible of the effects of the war on the fashion industry, with sales ultimately dropping. However, it is also not the most effective indication of the full effects, with statistics showing that British retailers never had an overwhelming consumer base in Russia to begin with: the Boohoo Group reported that Russia comprises less than 0.1% of their sales, for example. This number is much higher in the luxury arena, with Russia and Ukraine together accounting for 4-5% of luxury sales. However, neither of these numbers are earth-shattering, suggesting that the industry has not suffered much in the wake of this conflict.

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However, the impact of sanctions runs deeper than the overall reduction in consumer base. Russia’s biggest export is crude oil, and prices have been driven up due to scarcity following the decision to longer buy Russian exports. This impacts the fashion industry in two ways: firstly, lack of oil means lack of fuel and affects the abilities of companies to ship their products, and secondly, crude oil is a key component in the production of synthetic fibres, from which a large amount of clothes are made. Russia’s dominance in the oil industry and the problems this has caused have thrown the urgency of alternative, eco-friendly, powersources into light. Furthermore, it can serve as a warning sign against allowing any power monopoly over an industry; the stability Russia has in the knowledge that their oil exports are relied on by large swathes of the earth’s population is worrying. Ukrainian production According to the Ukrainian government, the country is home to

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2,500 clothing and textile factories, 240,000 industry employees, and the garment industry comprises 80-90% of the country’s exports. Therefore, as industry became impossible to continue and companies pulled out of production there, many in Ukraine have lost their livelihoods. This, however, is not the full picture when it comes to Ukrainian fashion production. Since the Ukrainian revolution in 2014, the fact that the government had to install itself completely from scratch has meant that some untoward business has been allowed to occur. Much of the operations of the fashion industry operate on the ‘gray market’, a.k.a. officially off the books but not entirely illicitly. This means that not only can the true extent of the garment industry’s presence in Ukraine not be known, but that sweatshops with unsafe and illegal conditions were common prior to the invasion. A Vice report found that the lead organiser of Kyiv’s underground rave scene said that it had become cheaper to produce clothing in Ukraine than in China. The fact that these sweatshops are not generally known

about means that many companies can drive up their prices by putting ‘Made in Europe’ on their label, leading their consumers to believe that the pieces were made ethically. Moreover, companies that previously did their production in Ukraine are being forced to find other factories that they can trust to make their products. This will be potentially damaging to the Ukrainian industry as relationships that are formed with factories elsewhere will be difficult to break when production is once again possible in Ukraine. It also means that many brands are struggling to relocate their business. So many companies had production in the country that many are fighting for the same production slots in new factories, leading to production and shipping delays. Equally, multiple Asian countries where a lot of production is based rely on exports from both Ukraine and Russia, which has impacted the ability to source from these areas. Egypt, India, Turkey, and China have all been unable to source coal, oil, and food supplies that they normally do. Neighbouring manufacturing countries such as Romania and Bulgaria are also at risk, and retailers such as Primark source from these areas. UNCTAD (United Nations Conference on Trade and Development) forecasts a 10% rise in consumer price for textiles and leather products because of such repercussions, but this price could realistically be far higher when raw material and labour costs are included in the equation. Ultimately, the issues that production in the fashion industry faces highlight just how far-reaching the consequences of this war are, and the life-threatening repercussions they will have on both Ukranians and people in connected and neighbouring countries. Supporting Ukraine On a more positive note, many large fashion houses and brands are donating time, money, and resources to aid the Ukrainian humanitarian crisis. For example, global luxury giant Kering which heads up brands such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, and Alexander McQueen has pledged a significant donation to support refugees that have fled Ukraine. Equally, Balenciaga dedicated its social media to the incident and have made a donation

LONDON RUNWAY

to the World Food Programme. The brand came out with a line in partnership with the World Food Programme in 2018, and continues it to this day. Gucci has given $500,000 to the UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees). These donations are perhaps indicative of a fashion industry that cares about its global community, something that is heartening in light of the situation. The effects of the war in Ukraine have been felt on a massive global scale, but nowhere more acutely than Ukraine itself, with millions of people displaced, suffering, or killed. Looking at the effect of the conflict on the fashion industry forces a recognition both of how our own practices aid their cause, and how perhaps the garment industry can be more careful about how it treats workers whose livelihoods revolve around the industry. The war has farreaching consequences that should be used to wake us up to our responsibilities as global citizens.

more important than life itself. In the face of the loss of life, life-changing injuries, and the loss of homes and livelihoods that so many Ukrainians face, the effect on the fashion industry is not comparable at all.

While fashion is important and, of course, our bread and butter here at London Runway, it’s obviously not the be all and end all. It is certainly not

But if you’re burying your head in the sand and believing that a war in a whole different country has no effect at all on your life, it might be time to think again.

What happens there affects us all, not just in terms of industry but also in politics and ethics – Ukraine will remember who stood by and did nothing when all of this is over.

You can read more of Em’s work on her Twitter @emponcia

Summer Heat Wardrobe Stylist: Darren O'reilly @smearedskyline Model: Darren O'Reilly @drippdingold Photographer: Duska Dragosavac @dragosavacduska Darren wears: Black Top - H&M; Matching Grey Top & Bottom - Alfred Sung; Belt, Beret - Gucci

Darren wears: White Corset - La Viedo Boutique; Trousers - Plateau Originals; Boots - Steve Madden; Scarf - Chanel

Darren wears: Black Top - H&M; Matching Grey Top & Bottom - Alfred Sung; Belt, Beret - Gucci

Darren wears: Boots - Hunter; Jacket - Vivid Vintage; Hat - Le Chateau

Darren wears: White Corset - La Viedo Boutique; Trousers - Plateau Originals; Boots - Steve Madden; Scarf - Chanel

Darren wears: Black Top - H&M; Matching Grey Top & Bottom - Alfred Sung; Belt, Beret - Gucci

Darren wears: Boots - Hunter; Jacket - Vivid Vintage; Hat - Le Chateau

Darren wears: Black Top - H&M; Matching Grey Top & Bottom - Alfred Sung; Belt, Beret - Gucci

Darren wears: White Corset - La Viedo Boutique; Trousers - Plateau Originals; Boots - Steve Madden; Scarf - Chanel

LONDON RUNWAY

A DEEP DIVE INTO DISCO FASHION AND ITS LEGACY In this article, Amrit Virdi delves into the world of disco to look at the lasting legacy of its fashion, and its integral links to the music scene. Disco is known for the flares, glitter, sequins, and bright colours that define the dance-led era, specifically in the 1970s. After writing my dissertation on women in disco in the 1970s, a fascination with the fashion led me to explore the lasting effects it has had on the fashion scene of today. Disco icons including Donna Summer and Diana Ross, as well as the clubgoers from the likes of Studio 54, have provided a plethora of photographic evidence of the fun-loving fashion from the era. The 1970s was arguably the height of disco’s craze, which coincided with women’s liberation movements in the US at the time spurring on women demonstrating freedom in their fashion.

Disco music in itself symbolised a new form of liberation and gave women a platform to take to the stage and sing of matters regarding freedom and sexual liberation, resulting in hits such as I Will Survive and Love To Love You Baby. The music was intrinsically linked with the fashion, as the bold colours and glitzy prints can be seen as a statement of the disco divas’ immense impact on allowing women to have a place in music. Perhaps this can even be linked to synaesthesia; after all, who pictures dull and monotone colours and clothes when you think of disco? Whilst regular 2022 clubbing fashion may be quite different from traditional disco looks, parts of the colourful hipster-like trends that encapsulated the style linked to disco music have filtered into the clothes which retain popularity today.

via Motel Rocks - Zoven Flare Trousers in 70's Ripple, £10

LONDON RUNWAY And these trends aren’t limited solely to women’s fashion. John Travolta in the 1977 hit film Saturday Night Fever is seen in a flared suit in the movie’s promotional poster. The bright white block colour and flared trousers mirrored what would often be worn amongst disco-goers at discotheques across the world in this era. Many would ditch their 95 workday suits for flamboyant attire, designed to catch the eye of anyone in the discotheque and make it a night to remember. These statement fashions match the historical meaning behind disco as a whole. Disco, specifically in the 1970s, was seen as a place of liberation and expression. In a repressive society which struggled to accept homosexuality, female freedom, and sexually suggestive music, discos allowed for those who felt unaccepted by society to release their true selves. This explains the underground and secret nature of many discos, including those such as The Loft, which had an exclusive guestlist system at times.

Whilst discos were often shrouded in their secret nature, photography from the time is revealing of the fashions that dominated the dancefloor. On this note, flares are one of the main pieces of statement fashion which have made a reappearance in the trends of today. Also known as bell-bottoms, flares have become a timeless piece of clothing. Although they originated in the Navy in the 19th century, they are most associated with ‘hippie’ trends of the 1960s, and subsequently the liberating disco era. As trends from 2016 onwards led to a revival of styles seen as more traditional or vintage, this coincided with a massive return of flares. I distinctly remember a point where every store stocked flares, and most people I know owned a pair in their wardrobe.

via wikimedia commons

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Flares are an easy way to make a start to replicating disco fashion in 2022. They can be styled in an everyday manner with a crop top and trainers, and are available in a variety of colours to make them appropriate attire for a night on the town. If you’re aiming to give your local nightclub the feeling of a 1970s discotheque, a bright coloured pair of flares can be the way to go, paired with a glitzy crop top to replicate true Donna Summer vibes. They are extremely easy to find and can be purchased fairly cheaply – a simple Google search of ‘flares’ sees them available at the likes of Hollister and ASOS, perfect for a last-minute night out purchase.

LONDON RUNWAY The development of y2k fashion has also incorporated the hipsterlike disco trends into today’s fashion with bringing back wacky prints. Summer 2021, particularly in Urban Outfitters, saw ripple and marble print being a staple of the season, which mirrors those worn in the disco world. Even on Motel Rocks nowadays you can find printed flares being one of their staple buys. But why has disco made such an imprint on the fashion of today? It has had a lasting legacy in the music world as songs such as Ain’t No Mountain High Enough and I Will Survive have retained their popularity 40 years after their releases. In terms of fashion, the resurgence of y2k has led to trends from the past being adapted and brought back to suit the youth of the 2000s. Disco in particular fits the overall trend of y2k being defined by bright colours, bold patterns, lowwaisted skirts, and bell bottoms. Whilst the latex look may have been ditched for mesh or cotton fabrics, it is also in festival attire where the legacy of musicinspired fashion intertwines with the y2k look. As evidenced at the likes of Coachella and Glastonbury this year, bolder appears to be better for festivalgoers, who seem to incorporate many colours and prints into their looks.

To me, the intertwining of fashion and music is integral to displaying the crossing over of art in different forms, and to displaying the expressive nature of them both. Different types of music call for different outfits, and the symbolism behind disco’s stylistic boldness reflects the boldness of its music as being a form of liberation. Its fashion also is not limited solely to its clothes. Colourful makeup and big hairstyles are integral to completing the full disco look, as fashion can be translated through multiple modes. If disco can be classed as anything, it is extravagant and flamboyant. To recreate iconic looks from the likes of Gloria Gaynor, tight curls, big earrings, and a bright lipstick is the way to go. Why not indulge in some purple in relation to this edition? Embrace the bright colours. With its reams of history, disco’s legacy in the world of fashion is one which should be celebrated. Seeing brands of today pay homage to it subtly with the reemergence of bell-bottoms, sequins, and bold statement pieces reiterates the impact that music has on the fashion world, and the intertwining of different types of art. If you’re looking for a last-minute outfit for a dance, take some inspiration from disco’s divas and ditch the 2000s body con for some 70s flares, and take a step back in time.

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via Paramount Pictures

LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: KAITLYN Name: Kaitlyn Kaylee Brown Age: 16 Location: Los Angeles, California Agency: Top Ten Talent How long have you been modelling for? I have been modeling since I was 7 years old. Where are you from originally? I was born in Montgomery, Alabama then grew up in Laurel, Mississippi.

What would surprise people to know about you? Despite loving to model and act, I am very shy and you would never know I'm in the room because I'm so quiet when not engaged in my craft. What are your modelling ambitions? I aim to become a runaway model like Heidi Klum, Naomi Campbell, or Jourdan Dunn.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Not that unusual, no. [Laughs]

Photographer: Arezoo Jalali @arezoojalali_photography Model: Kaitlyn Kaylee Brown @theofficialkaitlynbrown Fashion Designer: Latiste by Amy, Tia Brown

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: MILISA Name: Milisa Sporykhina Age: 3 Location: Florida, USA Agency: World of kids How long have you been modelling for? 3 months

What would surprise people to know about you? That she bakes cookies with support of her Ukrainian grandma whom is currently seeking refuge with us because of the war and she has a great memory and learns big poems quickly.

Where are you from originally? We, the parents were born and raised in Ukraine and she (the model) was born in Brooklyn, NY. Her and her brother are first generation Americans.

What are your modelling ambitions? To meet people all over the world from different cultures and backgrounds that believe that there’s still good in this world and spread that message

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? She sings and dances ballet.

Photographer: Viktoriia Sporykhina @sporykhins_family Model: Milisa Sporykhina @sporykhins_family

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LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: MERT Name: Mert Yaşar Ordu Age: 20 Location: İstanbul Manager: Toğan Kuter Eren How long have you been modelling for? 2 years Where are you from originally? Bulgaristan

What would surprise people to know about you? My thoughts are very different and contradictory compared to other people. What are your modelling ambitions? We want to take part in good projects with my manager. I'm trying to be the best model in the world.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I guess no.

Manager: TOĞAN KUTER EREN @togankutereren Photographer: Uğur Kayan @gurkayann Model: Mert Ordu Yaşar @mert.ordu

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portfolio piece Although a classically trained artist, I am currently specializing in fine art photography. Drawing heavily from my fine arts roots, I attempt to emphasis the emotional mood, dynamics and most importantly the story contained in each photograph. I want my photographs to do more than "just freeze the micro moment." They must transport the viewer through a sequence of events, yet allowing the audience to complete the story with their own unique personality and history.

Models: Olga Nesset, Nataliya Nasonova, Clara Hill @claylasue, Chelsea Sanders @_.emerald_eyes_modeling._ Photographer: Marina Shipova @marina.shipova

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Photographer: Adam Beniston @thats_it_photography Model: Mel Wright @melly_jane_model

MEL WRIGHT

Mel wears: "Belinda Orchard" - Honey Birdette

Photographer:

@xiaoyunxiuxiu

小云岫岫

Wardrobe: CHENGCHENG

MEMORIES OF JIANGNAN

江南

忆

THE TOP 5 ICONIC FASHION STARS FROM THE MOST POPULAR TEEN DRAMA SHOWS

This week, Ruth looks at the most iconic fashion idols from the most popular teen drama shows of the last decade, and what makes them so memorable.

I’m going to take you back in time to the early 2010s. In comparison to society and media today, it seems like a lifetime ago. But in the ten years that have passed we have seen tremendous change, in every aspect of the world. In the last decade, Apple released the very first iPad. The Twilight series was coming to cinema screens every year. One Direction was formed on X Factor UK. Instagram was established. Prince William and Kate Middleton were married in a beautiful royal wedding. Facebook was really the only social media that anybody used. If you wanted to listen to music, you pulled out your iPod Nano. Gay marriage was legalised. Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, and Beyoncé were taking the music world by storm. Kim Kardashian broke the internet. And as for fashion, you couldn’t walk down the street without seeing neon colours, jeggings, wedge sneakers, or cracked nail polish.

ARIA MONTGOMERY / PRETTY LITTLE LIARS Pretty Little Liars is one of my favourite television shows of all time. It’s a teen thriller which follows the story of four teenage girls whose lives have fallen apart ever since their best friend, Alison, mysteriously went missing. It is soon revealed that she was murdered on the night she disappeared, and the girls begin to receive messages from an anonymous person called ‘A,’ who threatens to reveal all their secrets. Aria is described as the alternative one of the friends. In the pilot episode, she had bright pink highlights in her dark hair, and as the series progresses, we see her as the girl who loves writing

But the early 2010s were also the time that teen drama shows really rose to fame. Before dystopian fiction became the new trend, we had vampires and werewolves, and there was nothing more exciting than telling the world which team you were on. These TV shows were iconic, bringing together a generation that still re-watches them today. If you open TikTok, you’ll see edits of said teen dramas and their main characters, all of which get hundreds of thousands of likes. It was something incredibly new at the time, and it inspires a lot of nostalgia for those who were there at the very beginning.

and film noir. She’s independent and feisty, especially when it comes to protecting her friends. She’s one of the best at keeping secrets throughout the entire series, even hiding romantic relationships from her loved ones. But Aria is best known for her fashion choices. In the earlier seasons, we see her in print dresses, paired with kneehigh boots, and leather jackets. She tended to favour darker colours, such as black, grey, mauve, or burgundy. But everything came with textures, from velvet to chiffon, usually intertwined with city-chic. The dress she wore to homecoming was black lace with a corset bodice and silver chains falling from her shoulders. Once, when talking to her boyfriend in his office, she wore a gold glittery top with a zip-up dress over it. Aria was also the main character who loved her accessories. I know it was the early 2010s, but some of them were just bizarre. Like the time she wore earrings that looked more like weapons; black and gold, big enough to touch her collarbones, with long spikes. Then there was the episode where she wore bright blue feathers in her hair. And we can’t forget the studded belts she wore in every flashback to when Alison was still alive, and Aria was in her retromeets-Avril-Lavigne phase. It might have been Hanna who was the one obsessed with fashion in Pretty Little Liars, but we have to give Aria the crown for the most iconic statement looks in the show.

So, here we are to look at the most popular teen drama shows from the last decade or so, and crown our top five most fashionable stars. Image via ABC family

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ELENA GILBERT / THE VAMPIRE DIARIES

When the series first starts, Elena is seventeen, and mostly dresses in casual teenage clothes. We see her in longsleeved tops, bootleg jeans, and black Converse. She sometimes liked to wear lace camisoles, paired with leather or denim jackets, and tended to reach for darker jewel tones; purple, blue, and dark red. But overall, her look was always comfortable and feminine. It made perfect sense, as she never knew when she might have to run from evil vampires. She was practical with her fashion choices, and that’s part of the reason she was so relatable.

But when Elena had an illustrious event to attend, she really showed just how fashionable she could be. One of her most iconic looks is the dress she wore to the Miss Mystic Falls beauty pageant in the first series. It was royal blue silk, which pulled in tightly to the waist before falling elegantly to her feet. She paired it with simple silver jewellery. This was the episode where she first danced with Damon, and their relationship sparked into more than friends, which makes the look even more memorable. It’s no wonder that every girl watching was jealous of Elena. Not only did she have two handsome vampires fighting over her, she was also an absolute fashion icon.

Images via The CW and MTV

LYDIA MARTIN / TEEN WOLF

When the Twilight series ended, The Vampire Diaries was there to win our hearts over with the story of two vampire brothers falling in love with the same girl. The series takes place in the supernatural town of Mystic Falls, where vampires, werewolves, and witches rule. There’s magic, curses, rituals, and bodies drained of blood, as the drama really takes over. But the one girl who stays herself - for the first three seasons - is the protagonist, Elena.

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Just like The Vampire Diaries, Teen Wolf was a huge part of the early 2010s and its obsession with the supernatural. The series surrounds a teenager who is bitten by a werewolf before his second year of high school, and how he is forced into a world of magical creatures, like banshees, chimaeras, and hellhounds. It is down to him and his friends to protect the town they live in. Lydia is one of the main characters, and the resident fashion icon of the series. Despite being a supernatural creature herself, she always managed to look perfect. Her style was feminine and ever-so-slightly prim, with light colours. She was often seen wearing floaty dresses, sometimes printed with florals or various patterns. She also liked the look of a blouse and sweater, with the collar visible, giving her a classic, preppy aesthetic. One of her most memorable looks is the dress she wore when she kissed Stiles. It was a pale blue shirt dress, with short bohemian sleeves, giving her the ultimate feminine, romantic look.

Blair is one of the main protagonists of the TV show, the so-called ‘Queen Bee’ of the Upper East Side. She is a socialite and an incredibly ambitious young woman, who strives for perfection in her life whilst struggling with selfesteem and beauty issues. If you had to describe Blair’s style in a few words, it would be classic, preppy, and chic. She was often seen wearing bright print dresses, made of more expensive-looking fabrics, like silk or satin, or chiffon blouses with tight skirts and pearl headbands. She tended to lean towards brighter, more colourful clothes so as to stand out in the crowd. Even her wedding dress was sky blue; a beautiful, bejewelled Elie Saab gown. Blair's fashion aesthetic was elegant and clean, and we have to give her points for being New York’s queen of style.

BLAIR WALDORF / GOSSIP GIRL

Gossip Girl first appeared on our screens in 2007, but it was still as popular as it continued into the early 2010s. The series follows the lives of several privileged, upper-class teenagers living in New York City, all whilst being narrated by the anonymous blogger, ‘Gossip Girl.’

Images via The CW

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MADDY PEREZ / EUPHORIA Euphoria is the most recently released television show on our list, which follows the lives of high school students as they struggle with love, substance abuse, trauma, and their place in society. Maddy is known as an icon in the show. She is confident and protective of her friends, but also extremely emotional and manipulative. Even though she is beautiful, she seems to have deep self-esteem issues as she continually returns to her abusive boyfriend, and allows him to get away with hurting her. These differing sides to her are unveiled through her fashion choices, revealing both her powerful and vulnerable side. Maddy’s style often surrounds tight clothes that show a lot of skin. She’s often seen wearing crop tops with jeans or mini dresses. She turned up to school several times in co-ords, in denim and lilac, with eyeshadow to match the colours. In the first series, she wore the iconic white Louis Vuitton halter-neck top, with the brand’s logo printed on it in rainbow colours. And there can be no forgetting the monumental outfit she wore to the carnival, which soon went viral on social media. It consisted of purple cut-out trousers with straps that tied over her hips, with a matching bralette. She paired the look with diamante eyelashes and silver hoop earrings. Her style choices have been replicated on social media, and featured in hundreds of articles since the show first aired, making Maddy one of the most iconic fashion stars of the decade. So, there we have it, the top five most iconic fashion stars from the most popular teen drama shows. Some of these television shows might be over, but their legacy lives on through the protagonists and their iconic representation of fashion.

Image via HBO

To read more of Ruth’s work, you can follow her on Instagram @thewriterruth.

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watercolour Painter: kanadel @soundscapenet

Ancient Chinese used gold to repair damaged porcelain, so that porcelain could continue its life and start a new cycle of use. This repair process is called "JIN SHAN".

Photographer: Siqi Li @wisdomli6 Model: Siyuan Wang, Bowen Shen Fashion Designer: Bai Liu @boyceliu.art Makeup Artist: Martina Kottová @martinakottova_muah

JIN SHAN THE CYCLE OF LIFE

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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc

ST essentials Eco-friendly loose glitter eyeshadow pigment | purple shell £7

adidas Originals Adventure Beanie in Purple £22.00

Ketevanna Quinn purple crop top £65.00

Big Horn Rai+S £110.00

Haoma Lavender Organic Single Note Eau de Parfum £45.00

Aggi Kyle purple opulence pants £225.00

Asos Design Classic Fit Denim Jacket in Light Purple Wash £40.00 Cocoove Melodie Shirt Dress in Cotton Poplin £142.00

The Letter Biker Jacket £380.00

Asime Violet Gingham Pants £68.00

Tiana Jewel Statement Amethyst Cluster Gemstone Cuff Ring £105.00

Aggi Blair Purple Opulence Blazer £310

La Nuit Edun Jane Nightgown £200.00

Carmelita Pascale Jacket Dress Sydney £178.00

Tiana Jewel Labradorite Statement Necklace £149.00

Skylence Lyla tea dress purple £465.00

LAVENDER, LILAC, VIOLET PAGE 66

NEW BUSINESS UAN CHEN

Photographer: Ruoming Zhao @rm.zhao, Jingyi Huang @jingyidaxianer Model: Anna Lyakhova at Unique Models UK @theangel_anna

What are your company values? Explore the sources of various human emotions, neutralize the negative and expand the comfortable. Currently how many people work for the business? 5.

Fashion Designer: Rita Yuany @ritayuany2.0 Name of company : Uan Chen Type of business : Independent Designer studio. Location : London and Chongqing/China. How long has the company been running? 1 year. Where did the idea come from? Feelings of life.

What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? Find something you are truly passionate about, and stick to it, slowly wait for the result. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years' time? Release some really popular original design products that make people comfortable and happy. And having one flagship store in my home city will be great.

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Leonardo Royal Hotel St Paul's London

House of iKons FASHION WEEK LONDON September 17th 2022

SUMMER TREND Models: Inna Marinina @inna_marinina_ Photographer: Natalia Avseyushkina @avseyushkina Wardrobe: Cropp @cropp_clothing, Reserved @reserved

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LONDON RUNWAY

UNIVERSITY OF EAST LONDON PRESENTATION

Designers: Silvia Pola Lopete Lina Urbeliene Sandra Owie Gary Odufeso Samrah Ibrahim Naomi Davis Maria Castro Paredes Photography by Chris Yates

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LILAC DREAMS

Makeup Artist: Martina Kottová @martinakottova_muah Photographer: Jarka Hrnčárková @jarkahrncarkova Model: Barbora ŠIklová @barunkasek Fashion Designer: Jarka Šnajberková @snajberkova_fashion

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LONDON RUNWAY

BOOK CLUB

The Year of Magical Thinking BY JOAN DIDION

Each month, our resident book club reviews a new must-read volume that will help to educate, inform, entertain, and thrill you. This issue, Hannah Whittaker reads The Year of Magical Thinking by Joan Didion.

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LONDON RUNWAY

This week I looked at the influential writing from Joan Didion, an American writer who sadly passed away late last year. Her novel, The Year of Magical Thinking, was a memoir, and grew to become one of the most acclaimed books that covers the topics of grief and loss. Written by Didion in 2005, The Year of Magical Thinking follows her own journey through grief and trauma after losing her husband suddenly to heart failure and dealing with her daughter’s lifethreatening illness at the same time. The fact that this memoir is an accurate representation of Didion’s life is both heart-breaking and extraordinary. Didion made it through these unbelievably difficult times, wrote about her experiences while they were happening, and released her writing as a novel to help other people deal with grief, showing just how much of a selfless and driven woman Didion was.

In some ways, Joan was forced to relive her husband’s death a number of times, as her daughter woke from a coma not knowing what had happened. Due to the physical and mental state of her daughter, Joan found herself explaining what had happened to her father numerous times as she kept forgetting in the midst of medications, moving hospitals, and long sleeping hours. The fact that during these times, Joan still had the strength to note down her thoughts and feelings, can be seen as one of her coping mechanisms. After all, she was a writer and mentions frequently in this memoir that that’s where she finds her happiness.

The general narrative of this memoir follows the events after Didion’s husband’s sudden death, which happened right in front of her eyes as they were eating dinner one evening. At this time, her daughter was also in the ICU in a coma, suffering from pneumonia. What Didion’s writing shows us is how grief is experienced so differently by different people. The shock of her husband’s death left Joan in a great deal of denial, believing that if she kept some of his belongings, like his shoes, he would eventually come home.

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This is undeniably a difficult book to read, mainly due to the overarching theme of grief and loss, but one element which I found brought a slightly more lighthearted outlook to this book was Joan’s frequent reflections on her past. The reader is taken through Joan and her husband’s new and old houses, neighbours, holidays, friends, pets, and the young years of her daughter. The reason Joan brings these memories up is because her grief caused her to actively avoid any scenario where something might remind her of her husband, so by remembering the memorable places they spent their lives together, Joan could avoid the (unknown to her) inevitable grieving process. Having detailed images of these locations that Didion associates with love and happiness adds a unique element to her memoir, as the reader is almost taken on a journey through Didion’s fondest place memories with her. Although these memories are coming from a woman in denial of her husband’s death, they are written with such beauty and detail that the memoir is given a ray of sunshine in this otherwise sad life event. The style of Didion’s writing in this memoir is also something that caught my attention. The stream of consciousness and slightly monotonous tone of this book helps the reader understand Didion’s true emotions and captures her grieving process precisely. I think what is important to remember when picking up this book is that all individuals have

very different experiences with grief and death. Didion and her husband both had a certain degree of fame when he passed, and being in the limelight in a situation like this means that there are a whole other level of people involved and commenting on the situation. That said, it does not mean that it makes it harder to grieve someone who is well-known, it only requires acknowledgement, as one will subconsciously compare their own grieving process to Didion’s. After doing some more research into Didion’s life and the release of this memoir, it is interesting to see that many critics accused her of voyeurism, as delving into the emotions of grief and mourning were still seen to be a private and personal matter.

writing which we can all relate to and learn from. Ultimately, this is a beautiful journey through Didion’s day-today emotions as she deals with grieving her partner and caring for her daughter, with the idea of acceptance (the final stage of grief) being hinted at the end of the book giving it a comfortable and natural ending for the reader.

Page turner: Complexity: Relevancy:

Considering these critics’ reactions, I do believe that Didion has paved the way for books tackling the topic of grief as she noticed the importance of sharing her experiences with it. The growing popularity of this memoir in recent years, and after the death of Didion herself, could be explained by the fact that we are living in an era where people are encouraged to share their deep emotions. This book deals with everything from the irrational, mundane, and downright insane actions that grief may cause in one’s life. Whilst it is crucial to remember that Didion’s experience of her husband suddenly passing away may be extremely different to our own experiences of grief, there are a number of elements within her

You can read more of Hannah’s work by following @hw.reads on Instagram.

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LONDON RUNWAY

PART 2

LIFESTYLE

TRUNK SHOW Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

KOMAL NASIR

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MD’S STUDIO

MEHR KHAN

MOHSIN NAVEED RANJHA PAGE 85

PURPLE HAZE

SARAH Z

GREEK GODDESS Model: Marie Von Bose @marievonbose Photographer: Sina Loos @piriphotography Makeup Artist: Jull Sakhatskiy @jullmua Wardrobe: Dress - Julia Sakhatskiy, Accessories - Sina Loos

TONGORO:

CREATIVITY CULTURE CONNECTION This week, Kwabena Gyane discusses the journey of Sarah Diouf and her fashion label, Tongoro.

Fashion has always been akin to storytelling: the array of fabrics and materials are a designer’s words. Stitching, from chain to multi-thread, are the conjunctions. Every piece is a distinct chapter, all coming together to show consumers the journey from sketch to show. For Sarah Diouf, “fashion is an amazing tool to tell stories, but it can be so much more when used as a catalyst for change”. Launched in 2016, her fashion label, Tongoro, was already telling a story before its first pieces made their presence known to the world. Aptly named, ‘tongoro’ means ‘star’ in Sango, the native tongue of the Central African Republic and a nickname given to the creator by her mother. As a designer, it’s imperative that the brand name holds a story, aiding in not only creating meaning behind the garments produced but establishing the overall tone of the brand. In the case of Diouf, culture serves as the story and the foundation. While it may be based in the bustling capital of Senegal, Dakar, the conception of Tongoro occurred outside of the country. It was during Fashion Week in Paris that Diouf, showered with compliments on the clothes a Senegalese tailor had created for her, found the idea planting itself. With time and rigorous research but no “tangible information on African fashion”, starting from scratch was the only option available to her. At this point of her journey, Diouf faced a hurdle that was both ubiquitous and unique. Designers everywhere face the challenges of finding the right place in the fashion market for their work, but very few face this in addition to finding a global customer base for African fashion. Tailorship plays a vital role in many African cultures. Fabric type, styles, and designs tell tales of the past and whisper ones to the future and Senegal is no different. Diouf describes craftsmanship as “the foundation of [her] brand”. She collaborates with local artisans when she discovered, after having several talks with them during her earlier trips to Senegal, that “outside the cultural festivities, there’s not...much work for [them]”

IMAGES VIA TONGORO

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Unlike many European and American countries, these local tailors don’t go to fashion schools to learn and master their crafts, they are taught by their elders. They function as, according to Diouf, “cultural agents”, keeping the sartorial history of Africa alive. She wanted to foster these talents that were not being given the necessary resources to grow. Tongoro is 100% made in Africa: to Diouf, this is essential to the brand’s sustainability. This supports the social and economic growth of tailors that aid in bringing her dream to life. As she succinctly puts it, “It’s the ability to create value through a commercial product without compromising, if not bettering, the wellbeing of the human resources required in the process”. The tailors don’t work for her, they work with her. It’s about creating connections to elevate those involved. As a designer, finding untapped talent is always welcomed, but one must be willing to cultivate it in a manner that not only benefits oneself but those you collaborate with and share your vision. “Tongoro is an African brand that dresses globally, and that will hopefully help the ‘Made In Africa’ label to become a gage of quality,” she says. Diouf, like many African-based designers, wants to change how the phrase ‘made in Africa’ is perceived by the fashion world which still seems to attach “poor quality” to it. With the hopes of “[captivating] the global market...to try [Tongoro’s] goods once, to seduce them and convince them”, she employed the tactic of having pop-up stores in cities that would attract consumers who she could convert into online customers. When asked why she uses ‘Made In Africa’ and not ‘Made In Senegal’, Diouf had this to say: “As an entrepreneur you have to have a vision that goes beyond your comfort zone – and with mine it’s continental, with Made in Africa there is no limit to my expansion, anywhere in Africa.” With a wider scope in mind, a designer is bound to find themselves in areas they had previously not envisioned. It may be safer to be risk averse, but being open to changes can always present the opportunity to elevate a brand, especially an up-and-coming one. In its second year, Tongoro experienced a situation many new brands rarely do: it received global exposure. Beyonce wearing Tongoro caused sales to explode. Being part of both her professional and personal styles was testament to the brand’s quality. Diouf would go on to collaborate with her, creating looks for her Spirit music video released in 2019. The exposure did not stop there for the brand: Tongoro had fashion icons Naomi Campbell and Iman praising it. This has clearly contributed to its commercial success, and although these opportunities may not present themselves to every new brand, it should not hinder any designer’s dreams of success as success can be achieved through different routes.

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IMAGES VIA TONGORO

From the exaggerated sleeves of the Male playsuits to the mesmerising design of the Kizi dresses, Diouf always utilises the cultures that shaped her to tell stories that are meant to captivate the audience. To her, “the goal is to make [Tongoro] affordable to most... luxury is an experience it’s not a price”. This statement holds truth when paired with what is said next: “When you think of luxury, the first name that should be put next to it, is Africa, it’s one of the only places left in the world where you can have a bespoke experience with pretty much anything and there is no price for that.” Diouf’s success with Tongoro not only shows how African designers are now on the rise and are going to make a mark in the fashion industry, but her journey also highlights the trials and triumphs young designers face while navigating the fashion industry.

You can read more of Kwabena's work at clippings.me/users/kwabenagyane, whereifoundmyeyes.com and @whereifoundmyeyes on Instagram.

IMAGES VIA TONGORO

LONDON RUNWAY

AFRICA FASHION WEEK: GRACE JONES MELTDOWN

Photography by Ian Clark @photo.by.ian

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CHEVON LE BLANC

HAFSA KHANUM

JULIA AGBA

DONATELLA ONORI

ANGELA ONORATO

SOBOYE

MAYA BURROWS

MARY MARTIN LONDON

SISTA BY EYORO X ADIRE OODUA TEXTILE HUB

KALIKAS ARMOUR

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ELFREDA DALI

ADEBAYO JONES

LONDON RUNWAY

Purple is a mix of serene blue and fiery red. With symbolisms of royalty, luxury, and ambition, these are some pieces that perfectly encapsulate the duality of the colour and the signs!

Aries March 21 - April 20

TALA - Aster Seamless Top and Leggings in Iris Purple Great for both exercise and everyday lounging, this sustainable activewear duo is perfect for Aries wanting to release their fiery spirit in a stylish manner.

Taurus April 21 - May 21

omi na na - Candi Striped Shirt This “anti-fit shirt” has a hand-blocked striped print design and pleated details on the shoulders. Tauruses will adore this innovative yet classic redesign of the button down shirt.

Gemini May 22- June 21

Yuk Fun - Pencil Person Tote Bag 100% organic and manufactured in green renewable energy powered facilities, these totes will show both the quirky yet considerate sides of this multifaceted sign!

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LONDON RUNWAY

Cancer June 22- July 22 Baukjen - Elisabetta FSC Viscose Dress “Designed for Good”, Baukjen’s slogan can be felt and seen through their sustainable production methods and quality products. This feminine yet movable dress, with its tiered skirt and smocked waist, gives Cancers the options to enjoy a breezy Summer brunch or dance the night away!

Leo July 23- August 21 omi na na - Lavender Dreams Square Shirt Dress Inspired by the fragrant flowering shrub, this “head-spinner” dress draws the attention wherever it’s donned. Leos, always the statement-makers, will love the unapologetic loudness of this piece.

Virgo August 22- September 23 Cossac - Lilac Palazzo Jumpsuit All about practicality, this silky, comfortable jumpsuit is for the Virgos wanting either those cosy days in working and organising away or those nights of glamour where only a pair of heels and a waist belt is needed to instantly elevate the look.

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LONDON RUNWAY

Libra September 24- October 23

Lost Ink. - Back Detail Textured Mini Smock Dress The perfect pastel purple, Libras will love flowering tulles and won't be able to resist the urges to run through the Summer fields in this femine, playful piece. “Taking inspiration from London’s street style, Lost Ink. are all about making statement styles wearable.”

Scorpio

October 24- November 22

Zara - Asymmetric Swimsuit The deep purple colour keeps Scorpios within their comfort level, while the asymmetric neckline and cut-out back design adds a flair of chic daringness that are characteristic to them.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 Goose Studios - Women’s Purple Organic Cotton T-Shirt Classic and versatile, this top adds a pop of colour in a Sagittarius’s wandering capsule wardrobe, allowing them to add a bit of flair to any adventure.

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Capricorn December 23- January 20 We Are Kin - The Juliet Mini In a limited Periwinkle Irish Linen, this mid-weight dress features pockets and a slight puff sleeve design. Made for the Summer days where the heat during the day calls for no restrictive jeans or trousers and the slight chill in the evenings require a slight shawl or long sleeves.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19

ASOS Design - Plissé Longline Beach Suit This deep yet bright purple suits the fashion forward Aquarians to a T. The design is casual enough for a day at the beach, but the added camp collar design and plissé finish makes it perfect for a night out as well!

Pisces February 20 - March 20 birdsong - Midnight Patchwork Day Jacket The ¾ sleeves, deep pockets, and soft TENCEL™ of this jacket will instantly draw the eyes of Pisceans. With different hues of purple, blue, and pink and various patterns, the patchwork design also lends to a deeper symbolism of how the sign is a culmination of the other zodiacs as the last one on the list.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers

Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley

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Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

UNIVERSITY OF WESTMINSTER MA FASHION DESIGN LONDON RUNWAY

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All Designers: Alice Brightmore Fanni Flora Henics Jesse Lee Na Yeon Kim Georgia Wilson Juoyu Wang Jasmine Thompson Qian Sun (Eric) Marcus Wood Fangfang Rao Phoii Hsuantsai Chou (Herra) Guangyu Li Yuhao Wu (Felipe) Lingshan Fan

LONDON RUNWAY

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LONDON RUNWAY

LONDON RUNWAY VIRTUAL FESTIVAL 2022 AUGUST 20-21 Join us for the London Runway Virtual Festival 2022! A full weekend of events to entertain you

Join us LIVE on Instagram @londonrunwaymag!

FEATURING: Live performances - Demonstrations - Q&A sessions - Interviews - Panel talks - Sales Exclusive discounts and offers for viewers - Behind the scenes at LR HQ - Quizzes and competitions Your questions answered - Live photoshoot Modelling tips - and more!

FIND US: londonrunway.co.uk @londonrunwaymag

Q A LONDON RUNWAY

THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

WHICH SOCIAL NETWORK WOULD YOU KEEP IF YOU COULD ONLY HAVE ONE?

"INSTAGRAM so I can continue to keep seeing London Runway magazine in my feed" - Lyric Reid, Professional Model

"Instagram"

- Amber Johnson, Publishing Assistant

"INSTAGRAM. I LOVE HAVING A PORTFOLIO OF PICTURES THAT I CAN LOOK BACK ON, IT'S LIKE A MODERN PHOTO ALBUM" - Ruth Croft, Staff Writer

"Question is, do I really need to keep one?" - Fil Mazzarino, Lead Photographer

"Twitter. Sorry Instagram, but I actually get to talk to real people on there and the algorithm works" - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

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NEXT: THE HEAT ISSUE THE PURPLE ISSUE

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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT E.MACBEAN BY FIL MAZZARINO