ISSUE 5
S/S 2018
LONDON
RUNWAY LONDON FASHION REPORT
SPOTLIGHT ON STYLIST LIVE INTERVIEW WITH COUCHMAN BESPOKE
STYLIST LIVE S/S 17 In this issue
Letter from the editor RHIANNON D'AVERC
Issue 5 comes to you hot from the runways of Stylist Live, where we saw many an exciting thing. From celebrity talks to fashion shows, there were three successful days of events in our capital. In this issue we're also chatting with Claire of Couchman Bespoke, who gave us an exclusive interview about her tailoring. It's exciting to open a new stage for the magazine in issue 5, as we move on to offering advertising as well as interview features with designers, tailors, and other fashion industry professionals. Stylist Live was a great affair with plenty to see and
do. One could spend the whole day in the food courts alone, munching on various fashionable samples of alternative diet foods. The catwalk was positioned as a presentation of the latest big trends to hit fashion week, embodied in high street looks with a few luxe elements thrown in here and there. You will certainly enjoy the bold colours and styles of this season, as well as the little details that make these looks special. Read on for highlights of the show and coverage of each trend you need to know about.
What's up next for London Runway? We have a busy schedule coming up as December turns to February, via Pakistan Fashion Week, London Fashion Week Men's, and Pure London. Drop us a line via londonrunway@gmail.com i f you have a show you think we should see. Enjoy - and remember to follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram for more.
Jagged Dreamland
EMBROIDERED CLOTHING AND BEADWORK JEWELLERY COLLECTIONS
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THE COLOUR CLASH Trend spotlight
Red with turquoise or pink. It's a thing now. Embrace it and clash as much as you like, but make sure you hit only the right notes.
S G uits are the focus of this next trend showcase.
W
ith this collection of looks, you'd have to agree that a woman's suit can be just as powerful as a man's.
ender was a hot topic at the show with plenty of disucsion. Suits: for men only, or for women?
MELTING POT Love what you love. Pull it out of your wardrobe and put it on even if it doesn't match. Sharing is caring.
MODERN ECLECTIC
THE NYC SEVENTIES TREND IS ALL ABOUT SILHOUETTE. KILL IT WITH AN EASY GRACE AND ATTITUDE
MIDNIGHT MAGPIE Trend spotlight
Ready to stay out until the hands strike midnight? Fear not Cinderella, tonight you will keep your jewels.
COUCHMAN BESPOKE Interview
We sat down with Claire Couchman of Couchman Bespoke to talk about tailoring. Read on for our exclusive interview! Hi, Claire - how did you get started as a designer and tailor? I studied at Brighton University where I developed a passion for pattern cutting. I have always loved tailored clothing with sharp lines made through pattern cutting, obscuring the silhouette and transforming the body form. Vivienne Westwood was my first inspiration and idol for her outrageous catwalk collections with extreme vandalism on fashion. Then Alexander McQueen appeared and everything changed to art, the theatre of the catwalk and tailoring in a new light. His modern approach to a traditional trade gave tailored clothing beauty and confidence to be yourself within whatever you wore.
"Then Alexander McQueen appeared and everything changed" What do you prefer designing, menswear or womenswear? I do prefer menswear as there is more scope to develop designs and try new paths. I get excited to design men’s clothing more than women’s.
COUCHMAN BESPOKE Where do you get the inspiration for your collections? They seem really diverse! Art plays a big part in the inspiration behind the designs I produce as I like to show my personality through what I wear, and think that everyone should have that same ability. I love colour and pattern, the architectural lines of buildings, spiral staircase, plants and the Fibonacci Sequence or the Golden Ratio. I look to street life and the everyday use of clothes by people in all sectors of society and industries, for inspiration behind details within the designs such as pockets. What's your favourite thing about creating your lines? I love the creative process behind designing and pattern making, even though doing this with an intention to waste less can be hard work. My process starts with the cloth in mind and develops around the connotations of this. My designs tend to be very rough as I do all the pattern making myself, which can develop freely throughout
this process to best suit any off cut cloth I may be using too. I also love to develop prints for the garments and have started to hand paint some to give a unique touch. Tell us all about your most recent collection. Geo-sartoria is a collection of finely tailored jackets and sharp shirts. The inspiration comes from architectural lines in glass panels and some brickwork. The shirts use up off-cut cloths mixed with hand naturally dyed organic cotton and bamboo, these are panelled up for a strong statement. The collection showcases recycled coffee bean bags and incorporates the logo prints into the garments. Do you have any advice for budding tailors? Believe in your dreams and bring them to light through passion. Always try an idea out and believe in your gut instincts for the longevity of an idea into a worth while concept. Business is about taking risks,
"Believe in your dreams and bring them to light through passion." however an initial idea will always develop over time, this is a natural process for a successful business. Never stop learning and developing yourself, skills and ideas. Unless you can pay someone be prepared to do more than just tailoring. What does 'fashion' mean to you? Fashion is pretentious, false and all for show. I call myself a ‘designer tailor or just a tailor’ , and my brand as ‘men’s contemporary tailored clothing’. There is nothing wrong with the use of ‘fashion’ as a word, I just feel it is so embedded with fast fashion connotations that I wish to move away from the use of it.
All clothing - Couchman Bespoke Photography - Simon King Model - Asim Abu Haj MUA - Ayesha Bowen
What's next for Couchman Bespoke? Couchman Bespoke is looking to get funding for a studio space where the brand can develop and grow forward. The space will have access for the public to come in and visit; for an alteration fitting, to collect garments, create a bespoke garment or just view the production process. Within 5 years the brand will be recruiting and training up tailors to work in-house from the local community. Thanks for chatting with us - where can our readers go to follow you and check out your work? The brand is on all major social media platforms as CouchmanBespoke and the website is www.couchman-bespoke.com
SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
The panel, Nikita Gill, Molly Case, and Vanessa Kisuule (pictured left)
CLEVER GIRLS
Molly Case (pictured right)
poetry slam
When was the last time you saw a spoken word performance? The art form is experiencing a bit of media attention currently, but as the artists at the Stylist Live poetry slam pointed out, it's not a renaissance. Poetry has been there all along. It's us that stopped paying attention for a while. Thank goodness it's back, because these three women are using the medium to talk politics, inspire fellow women, and make light of daily life. You'll recognise yourself in their words, and all three are sharp as blades. Check out your nearest poetry slam ASAP - it's the new place to be seen, and you might just learn something. Vanessa Kisuule
LONDON RUNWAYÂ Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc Photography and words: Rhiannon D'Averc Editorial assistant: Vikki D'Averc Special thanks to Claire Couchman Find London Runway: https://issuu.com/londonrunway instagram.com/londonrunwaymag instagram.com/pcistudio for unprinted images twitter.com/londonrunwaymag londonrunway@gmail.com
S/S 18
Front cover: Stylist Live Mac - ASOS; Jacket - Reserved; Shirt - Modern Rarity; Trousers - Reserved; Shoes - Carvela Back cover: Stylist Live Dress - Finery; Clutch - Oasis; Earrings Thomas Sabo; Boots - New Look