Sage ADVICE for Finding CREW
Lessons LEARNED Circumnavigation NO 6 SEAMANSHIP
V O YA G I N G
UPGRADE Your NAV Station PROJECTS
PA G E 4 0
PA G E 5 1
PA G E 5 4
birthday bash
In the BVI P A G E
charting a course
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for a
L I F E O F A DV E N T U R E First-Time Cruising P A G E
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got a fish?
Paint It!
t he f i n e a r t o f g yo t a k u P A G E
M A R C H
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Contents M a r c h
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FE AT U R ES
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DRAGGING TO FREEDOM PAGE 32
8 Editor’s Log
12 Underway
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26
Switched Off A disconnect switch on high-current gear can save the day. by Steve D’Antonio
On Watch
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Point of View
B O AT S & G E A R
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32 DRAGGING TO FREEDOM An incident in the anchorage at Isla Mujeres, Mexico, leads a pair of young cruisers to a serendipitous friendship.
65 Charter News
98 Off Watch
HANDS-ON SAILOR
51 Crew to Go Experienced sailors share the ins and outs of finding extra crew. by Lin Pardey
54 A Place for Everything Ready for a navigation station upgrade? by Andy Burton
B y Jorda n Wi c h t
40 LESSONS OF THE SIXTH Fresh from his latest lap around the planet, a veteran circumnavigator shares the highs and lows, and what worked and what didn’t during his journey.
Fast Times The Beneteau First Yacht 53 is a speedy, stylish ride. by Mark Pillsbury
62 Globe Girdler The Amel 50 is offshore ready with all the amenities. by Herb McCormick
By Webb Chiles
46 GOING FOR GOLD There is no shortage of good times when friends and family gather in the British Virgin Islands to celebrate the Moorings’ 50th anniversary. B y Ma r k Pil l s b u r y
ON THE COVER A Moorings 5000 catamaran cruises along on a sunny day in the British Virgin Islands. Photo by Adam Rohrmann
WEBB CHILES (CENTER); TOM MORKIN
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CO L U MNS
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Our home and all our possessions—the sum total of our meager life savings and the culmination of three years of hard work— was nowhere to be seen.
© Photographie : J.Ricoul
w w w.a m e l . fr
C o n ta c t yo u r l o c a l excl u s i ve A M E L a g e n t i n t h e U S A East Coast M c M i c h a e l Ya c h t B r o ke r s Mamaroneck NY
Southern California N a o s Ya c h t s Marina del Rey
Pa c i f i c N o r t hwe s t S i g n a t u r e Ya c h t s Seattle
E d i t o r ’s L o g When I landed in St. Thomas this past fall, bound for the British Virgin Islands, I was shocked—in a good way! B Y
M A R K
P I L L S B U R Y
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hen a pair of Category 5 hurricanes swept through the Virgin Islands and leveled just about everything in sight in September 2017, well, it made me, and probably many other folks, wonder what the future might hold. The destruction we saw, the task of rebuilding, and the time it might take was unimaginable. But when I landed in St. Thomas this past fall, bound for the British Virgin Islands, I was shocked—in a good way! Life seemed normal, from a tourist’s perspective at least. Restaurants were open, ferries were running, the hillsides looked green, the water was blue. My first stop after arriving in Road Town was Nanny Cay, which suffered a devastating blow. But to cut to the chase, the place looked great. Besides a full marina that’s home to numerous charter companies and private slips, the annual charter-boat show was in full swing, with 40 crewed yachts showing off their wares. “It’s really busy,” reported Janet Oliver, executive director of the BVI Charter Yacht Society. “Crews are saying calendars are really full.” John and Maxine White, who run Nutmeg, a St. Francis 50 catamaran, say that after the storms, the community rallied and came together to regroup and rebuild. Now, the work is paying off. “It’s great the people are coming back,” John said. They are looking,
Jerry O’Connell sits in front of the new Soggy Dollar Bar, at the only table to survive Hurricane Irma’s assault on Jost Van Dyke and the rest of the BVI.
in fact, at a pretty jam-packed season. Clarence Malone, manager of the MarineMax base, said that 2018 was a transition year, but by 2019, things were fully back, and that for winter 2020, they’re “ready to roll.” A few of the resorts on the out islands—Peter Island and the Bitter End in North Sound, for instance—remain closed, but there’s an abundance of other bars and restaurants to visit, as I’d soon find out. Across the marina, I caught up with Horizon Yachts’ Andrew Thompson just as he was about to climb a mast to tackle a rigging job. The marina, he says, has been completely rebuilt to morestringent storm standards. His fleet, meanwhile, is back to 38 boats in the BVI, and more
growth is anticipated, with new charter yachts arriving frequently. Among his current projects is a trial treatment of some charter-boat bottoms with an antifouling vinyl film to replace toxic bottom paints. If all goes well, applying it might be a service that’s offered by the marina in the future. An avid kite boarder, he’s also promoting charter and learnto-kite vacation getaways. One of the most upbeat people I met in the islands was Jerry O’Connell, owner of the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke. When Irma blew through White Bay, the storm took just about everything with it, including his adjacent Sandcastle Hotel, most of the vegetation, and everything else around. O’Connell was over in
St. John when disaster struck that September 6, and it was two days before he could get back. All that was left were the bar and one table, the latter of which now sits front and center—call it a monument to perseverance. O’Connell looked right at home, sitting at the table, the bar behind him, recounting how he was right away lucky enough to get ahold of a piece of heavy equipment that had been stranded by the storm. Immediately it was put to good use as he and his employees began cleaning up and quickly rebuilding. Tons of debris and trees had to be removed or burned. But one worker convinced him to give the wind-stripped wild grape trees a chance. Two years later, they are green and healthy and providing shade for the customers who’ve come back to party, just like the good old days. In the wake of the storm, loyal customers searched online for updates, and soon, donations began to pour in. A relief fund was set up, collecting more than $850,000 that’s gone to local projects, such as the schools, O’Connell said. Before I left, he gave me a photo book he published to chronicle the recovery. The next-to-last page has a photo of a bunch of smiling people, O’Connell among them, having a toast in front of a well-stocked bar, big smiles on their faces. The caption read: “December 30, 2017. Power Restored. 116 days—Thanks guys!!!” Island time, redefined.
MARK PILLSBURY
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U N D E RW W AY NEWS and NOTES from the CRUISING COMMUNITY
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E d i t e d b y Je n n i f e r B r e t t
DUSTING OFF THE CRUISING COBWEBS
P
erched on Yahtzee’s high side with my back resting against the lifelines, I watched the early morning sunlight spread across the Gulf of Alaska to the south and the verdant mountains of the Kenai Peninsula to the north. Sailing closehauled for Kodiak Island in a fresh breeze and steep chop, green water washed over the foredeck and under our overturned dinghy while my wife, Jill, and I soaked in the scene. Then, in what seemed like an instant, my face fell from a happy “We’re sailing!” smile to a sudden “Oh, no!” bug-eyed panic. We’ve all had this feeling before. Rushing down below, I pushed quickly through the galley and saloon to the V-berth, where my fear was quickly confirmed: A lot of that water I’d been watching pour over the foredeck was now spraying like a saltwater hose into the boat. I quickly dogged the partially open hatch, surveyed
Although wonderfully secluded and protected once you’re inside, Taz Basin, along the coast of Granite Island, Alaska, has a tricky entrance that will put navigation skills to use.
ANDY CROSS
march 2020
12
march 2020
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Kidney Cove, near Sitka, Alaska, offered the perfect place for the Cross family to get back into the swing of the cruising lifestyle after a long hiatus.
the watery scene and rushed back to the cockpit, spewing choice words all the way. Though the rest of that 80-mile sail was picture-perfect and the forward cabin was no worse for the wear, I couldn’t quite shake my failure to ensure that hatch was closed. I was disappointed in myself, because securing all ports and hatches is one of the last boxes I tick when making my rounds before heading offshore or even out for a daysail. Why I had forgotten to complete this small yet important task bothered me, and I later realized that, in this particular instance, I was still working into my groove of being underway again. Actually, our whole family was adjusting. After a nearly two-year hiatus to top up the kitty in Seward, Alaska, and work on our beloved 1984 Grand Soleil 39, our family of four had set off a mere 10 days prior to return to the cruising life. In many ways, we were all finding our footing, clearing out the cobwebs of life under sail. And it certainly wasn’t just the instance of forgetting to close a hatch. Days earlier, we’d made an error that rarely would have happened before and hasn’t happened since. In the excitement of being out exploring new places, we switched anchorages before adverse weather moved in. When it did, we began swinging uncomfortably close to a lee shore and decided to move to a more suitable spot. Ultimately, we would have been fine, but it was stressful because we’d known the weather was coming, and we weren’t on a schedule and didn’t have
anywhere to be. We’d essentially gotten caught up in the moment. Even seemingly routine things that we’d taken for granted before stopping in Alaska were being relearned and adjusted to. No longer being weekend warriors with the crutch of a nearby marina, life aboard with no shore power, abundant fresh water or a nearby fuel dock meant getting used to managing our onboard resources carefully once again. Don’t let the faucet run too long! How many gallons of diesel do we burn per hour? Can we turn off the fridge tonight to save power? Even the task of properly organizing the boat down below for life underway took some adjustment and revisions. Fortunately, these instances amounted to nothing more than minor annoyances, and we know it is all part of life underway on a cruising sailboat. We roll with it and learn as we go. Personally, as an experienced sailor and cruiser, I took some of these mistakes hard because they were missteps that I pride myself in not making. In that vein, you can consider me humbled by the sea. The ocean doesn’t care about our sailor pride or ego. The best we can do is swallow it, learn from our errors and oversights, and move forward in a positive direction. Now, several months and thousands of miles later, I look back at those first two weeks of cruising with a smile. Those moments of frustration have passed far astern now, like so many miles under our keel. —Andy Cross
ANDY CROSS
Part #77500
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In a recent post on Sailing Totem, Behan Gifford offered some perspective for sailors who are planning to cruise the Bahamas in 2020. “First it’s important to know that overwhelmingly, the islands of the Bahamas are unaffected,” Gifford said. “Dorian’s impact was focused on the very north: Grand Bahama, and Abaco. Grand Bahama is officially open for tourism again; only Abaco is not. “If you are selfsufficient and willing and able to help, by all means—sail to the Abacos! Volunteer workers are encouraged. “If you can contribute to the recovery by sailing to Abaco and offering services, it’s warmly welcomed. The need for this help is ongoing. Specialized skills such as plumbing, electrical, carpentry, roofing, mechanics or operation of heavy equipment are especially welcomed, but grunt labor is helpful too.” For tips on how to get involved in Abaco’s hurricane recovery, details on specific locations, and a list of organizations and aid groups, visit cruisingworld.com/ sailing-totem.
STICK TO SAILING, FATTY Et tu, Fatty? As you described, yes, plastic in the oceans is a big problem (“Running Hot and Cold on Climate Change,” November 2019), but a recent study found that over 90 percent of it comes from the mouths of just five rivers, all in Asia. Over-fishing is also serious, but it’s my understanding that fishing in US waters is heavily regulated and enforced, unlike, say, with those Asian factory ships roaming the world’s oceans. And no, hurricanes aren’t getting more frequent and stronger—that bogus propaganda was even being spread while the US went a recent full 10 years without the mainland being struck by a Category 3 or stronger hurricane. It seems that the public has forgotten Galveston in the early 20th century, or that in the late 1930s a hurricane reportedly put Hilton Head 10 feet under water. Of course, using actual temperatures instead of “adjusted” temperatures, it was warmer in the 1930s than it is today. Perhaps in the future, Fatty, you could write about a topic where you have some particular expertise, such as, maybe, sailing and cruising. Owen Hobson Via email
YOU TELL ’EM, FATTY I usually turn to Fatty Goodlander’s articles first when I receive my copy of Cruising World for their crazy humor and good spirits. With this most recent issue (November/December 2019), I have to say that despite a dearth of humor, it was the most germane and important
article he has written. Kudos for you, Fatty, for saying what is so, giving examples of how we can also participate, and being willing to face the usual backlash of people not wanting to step out of the bubble of entitlement. Margaret Bannerman Via email
COURTESY HOLLY MARTIN
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B a ha m a s Cr u i s i n g Po s t - D o r i a n
Holly Martin and her father have a good eye for a good boat (below) (“Maiden Voyage,” January 2020). One of the original Grindes was imported on spec to the UK by a broker. To publicize the boat, he contacted excellent helmsmen, two friends of mine, the late Richard Scott Hughes and Dieter Tim, to race the boat. The broker entered the Grinde in Cowes Week in the IOR half-ton class. With a pickup crew, Richard and Dieter raced against the hotshot IOR crews and won going away! The Grinde became a very popular boat in the early ’70s. —Don Street ,Via e-mail
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WILLY T’S WATERY REINCARNATION
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f you cruised the British Virgin Islands prior to 2017, you’re likely familiar with the William Thornton, more commonly known as Willy T, the infamous floating bar that was the scene of much fun and defrocked debauchery before it was destroyed by hurricanes Irma and Maria and lodged on the beach on Norman Island. After one failed salvage attempt, Chris Juredin, a longtime BVI resident who owns two local diving-related businesses, and Kendyl Berna, an environmental scientist and filmmaker, joined forces, acquired the Willy T, and founded the nonprofit organization Beyond the Reef in 2018 to build artificial reefs around the BVI while
fostering positive change ashore. Beyond the Reef ’s goals were fourfold. Juredin and Berna wanted to “recycle” derelict vessels, create reef habitat, foster positive public relations for the BVI, and use the reefs to generate revenue that will help teach BVI-based schoolchildren to swim. According to Berna, only 10 percent of BVI kids command this skill set, despite the nation’s wealth of world-class beaches. Cooler still, Juredin and Berna’s vision involved creating public art. After working with the government to secure the necessary permits, performing a detailed bathymetric survey of the proposed sites, and surveying these areas to create
baselines of biomass and biodiversity, the Beyond the Reef team stripped the Willy T of all environmentally harmful materials during spring and summer 2019, and employed skilled welders and sculpture artists to help festoon it with piratethemed art using steel and concrete. Finally, diver-friendly holes were cut into the decking before the team freed the Willy T using an excavator, a crane and a tugboat. In August, it was towed from Norman Island to Key Bay (near Peter Island) and scuttled. “The area that we sank the Willy T in was carefully chosen because it was a desolate, sandy area adjacent to a struggling coral wall,” Berna says. “Our hope was to revive the [area’s]
entire ecosystem by adding a large structure that would eventually calcify and greatly extend the reef.” Still, deep-sixing art isn’t easy. “It’s a weird feeling watching something that you’ve worked so hard on for a year sink to the bottom of the ocean,” Berna says, adding, “but that feeling subsides the second you dive on it, and seeing the Willy T littered with fish that have made it their home is amazing.” While the Willy T is sunk, its hull (and art-installation) materials still matter. “Concrete is great for artificial reef because its composition is close to natural coral limestone, and steel that has been welded holds a low-voltage charge that jump-starts electrolysis and increases the rate of calcification,” Berna says. Beyond the Reef has also acquired three derelict
COURTESY BEYOND THE REEF
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revenue that will benefit locals. “The main goal is to collect $5 from every diver on the site, which goes directly toward teaching local BVI children how to swim,” Berna says, adding that Beyond the Reef has secured cooperation from local dive companies. “In exchange for the donation, divers
will receive a commemorative souvenir sticker courtesy of Beyond the Reef.” While these are early days, Berna is pleased. “I dove on the Willy T last week and saw a nurse shark nearly walking the plank, a turtle in the neighboring coral, a barracuda hanging out in the pirate flag,
and thousands of fish living on the pirate sculptures and eating algae off the deck.” And in case you find yourself thirsty while anchored in Norman Bight, not to worry—a new floating Willy T restaurant and bar has opened, meaning that the good times will continue. —David Schmidt
19 march 2020
airplanes that, with the public’s help, they turned into sharkthemed art. These now-stylized planes were sunk off Great Dog Island in an area called the Coral Gardens in December to create the “sharkplaneo” reef. In addition to creating sea-life habitat, Willy T and the sharkplaneo reefs will generate
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After plenty of prep work, the hurricane-damaged Willy T was towed out to its new location (left) and scuttled in Key Bay, near Peter Island, to become an artificial reef and pirate-themed art installation.
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table was some of his recent handiwork: intricate earrings, bold necklaces and dozens of tikis, all carved from bone. He was animated and attentive in his rambling French, every sentence punctuated by a happy “my friend” and “is good”—some of his few English words. I noticed a long spear with a bone handle and a blade made from a swordfish bill propped haphazardly in the corner. Bartolome quickly dusted it off and explained where the material came from. “My cousin, he…pew pew…dis fish,” he explained, his hand shaped like a gun to fill in the missing words. “Da bone, it is from biff.” When we looked puzzled, he elaborated with a long, low “moo,” then broke into an infectious chuckle. We were sold. We easily agreed on a price by writing numbers on a scrap of paper, but added the stipulation that we wanted him to carve the handle, to give it his own artistic touch. Thinking it would take a few days, we turned to go, but he stopped us. “Oui, my friend, à présent, is
Bartolome, a carver on Fatu Hiva, in the Marquesas, fashions a tiki into the handle of a spear.
good!” He promptly cleared off the table and got to work. In less than an hour, without consulting a model or drawing, with no trace or guide of any kind, he had carved a beautiful tiki into the handle. When it was done, he handed it to us proudly, grinning from ear to ear. “My friend, for you. Is good!” —Becca Guillote
JOHN GUILLOTE
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T
he people of Omoa—a tiny town tucked into a steep valley on Fatu Hiva, in the Marquesas— are some of the most generous we have encountered on our travels. Their unassuming kindness, easy smiles and casual patience bridged our deep language barrier, and we soon formed memorable friendships. Locals would frequently call us over with energetic gestures to practice their few English words or welcome us with gifts of fruit off their trees. This is how we met Bartolome, lounging in the front yard of his cousin’s house. A gregarious local artist, Bartolome invited us to see his carvings the next morning and pointed vaguely down the street—the only directions we would need to find his home. When we ambled by the next day, Bartolome guided us around the house to his workshop: four bamboo poles propping up a tarp; a table, two chairs, and an extension cord snaked across the yard. On the
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The 6D is the latest in Spinlock’s line of Deckvest PFDs. It’s designed to be donned quickly, and the front opening buckle is simple to use and adjust. When inflated, it features a spray hood with a large, clear, structured visor, and the bladder is fitted with LumeOn lights for increased visibility.
If you’re on a night watch, you need a headlamp—bonus if it’s comfortable. The HeadLamp 200 is ultralightweight and USB rechargeable. Lighting modes include bright, dim and strobe settings in either white or red. The battery provides 40 hours of use on dim and three hours on bright.
4 3 5
21 march 2020
GEAR FINDS FOR SPRING
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WHERE THE BIRDS
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inter is my favorite season on the water. In addition to lighted boat parades and nautical holiday parties, this is the time for the annual Christmas Bird Count, now in its 120th year. My husband and I joined the event on land several times before discovering how much fun it is on a boat. Every year in the southern reaches of Puget Sound, the Christmas Bird Count brings together mariners and birders—two groups who share a passion for the marine environment. We spend a day cruising a pre-assigned route, recording numbers and species of birds, while reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones. All on board enjoy a camaraderie that comes from teamwork in icy but beautiful
surroundings, moving toward a common goal. The bird count is a census that takes place at sites throughout North America from December 14 to January 5. It began in 1900, in response to a traditional Christmas Day hunt in which participants competed to kill the largest number of birds. The Christmas Bird Count offered participants the alternative of recording live specimens and publishing the results in the journal Bird-Lore. While the first count attracted only 27 birdwatchers, last year’s event included more than 79,000 observers from all 50 states, every province in Canada, and areas of Latin America. It is the longest-running Citizen Science Project, and the data is significant to ornithologists because
of place, and longevity. This year we set out from Olympia, Washington, on a cold, clear day and almost immediately spotted the day’s highlight—a rare yellow-billed loon. Through the hours, a continual tally could be heard on deck: “25 surf scoters,
12 pigeon guillemots, five goldeneyes, two rhinoceros auklets, one eared grebe— and a bald eagle soaring overhead….” It was our version of “The 12 Days of Christmas” song. We returned to the dock to join other local bird counters for an evening of hot soup, lively stories and comparing numbers from previous years. Sponsored by the National Audubon Society, the Christmas Bird Count is free and open to everyone, including nonmembers and first-time birders. Sailors are welcome, and teams include observers, counters and recorders. For information on logistics and how to sign up, visit the website (audubon.org/conservation/ join-christmas-bird-count). The Great Backyard Bird Count, which takes place in February, is also free and open to everyone. —Lisa Mighetto
COURTESY THE AUDUBON SOCIETY
U N D E R W AY
22
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POTLUCK LIME BARS For the crust: 2 cups flour 3 /4 cup powdered sugar 1 /2 tsp. salt 1 cup unsalted butter, chilled
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LUSCIOUS LIME TREATS My first introduction to the cruising lifestyle came many years ago during a break from college. Three buddies and I flew to the Abacos, Bahamas, for a grand adventure: We’d chartered a 32-foot sloop for a one-week learn-to-sail trip. Since our previous experience included only a bit of dinghy sailing, it would be quite an escapade. After two days of training with a skipper/instructor on board, we returned to Marsh Harbor, where our teacher promptly jumped onto the dock, waved goodbye, and announced, “You’re ready!” We all looked at each other, wondering who he was talking to. Ready or not, off we sailed for Hope Town. We did manage to arrive at our anchorage unscathed, and were immediately invited to a potluck dinner ashore that evening. Not having a lot of supplies aboard, we decided on an easy sweet: citrus bars, which were always popular at home potlucks. Limes are plentiful and delicious in the Caribbean, so we opted for those, though this recipe can also be made using lemons, oranges or even grapefruit. —Jim McMullen
Cook’s Notes If you have baking paper, line your greased pan before adding dough, letting edges overlap pan. The grease will help the paper adhere well to the pan; paper makes it easy to remove the finished lime bars. —JM
For the filling: 6 eggs 3 /4 cup (12 Tbsp.) lime juice (about 6 limes if using fresh) 2 /3 cup flour 2 1/2 cups sugar 1 /2 tsp. salt 3 Tbsp. lime zest (optional) Powdered sugar, to taste Additional lime zest, for garnish (optional) Lightly whisk eggs in a small bowl and set aside. In a medium-size bowl, combine lime juice, flour, sugar, salt and 3 tablespoons lime zest, if using. Add eggs and blend until smooth. Spread evenly over baked crust. Return to oven and bake until filling is set but not browned, 15 to 25 minutes (ovens vary; check periodically). Remove from oven; chill or cool for at least 2 hours. Before serving, dust with powdered sugar, cut into bars, and garnish with a bit of lime zest. Yields: about 20 2 1/2- by-2 1/2-inch bars. P R E PA R AT I O N : AT A N C H O R TIME: 2 HOURS CHILL TIME D I F F I C U LT Y : E A S Y
LYNDA MORRIS CHILDRESS
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Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Combine dry ingredients in a bowl. Cut butter into small pieces and gradually add to dry mix, blending well with a pastry cutter or food processor. Alternatively, use your hands and knead together as if you were making bread. Once ingredients form a crumbly dough, form into a ball or balls, cover with plastic wrap and chill for 15 to 30 minutes. (Dough will be a bit crumbly.) When dough is slightly chilled, press evenly into a well-greased 9-by-13-inch shallow baking pan. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until crust is very lightly browned.
Discover the world While some people are happy with cookie-cutter vacations, we know you crave something more - like the exhilarating feeling of following your own compass and letting your inner seafarer roam free. For those wind-hungry freedom chasers that want more than the status quo, we’re here for you and the world is waiting for you to pay it a visit. So get out there and grab life by the helm...
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O n Wa t c h Ah, Borneo! You can’t get more primitive here on Earth without a time machine. B Y
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On the dock at Camp Leakey, Princess’ son, Percy, greets the Cap’n and Carolyn. Once they get to know each other a little better, he’ll escort them to the reception area.
I
n October 1975, while building our 36-foot ketch Carlotta from scratch, I happened to pick up a copy of National Geographic magazine featuring Borneo. On its cover was what appeared to me to be a sexy hippy chick, with a cute female orangutan on her hip and another on the ground in front of her. The standing orangutan was named Princess. It turns out the women’s name was Dr. Birutè Galdikas, a primatologist and conservationist, which I discovered as
soon as I actually stopped to read the story. But it was that image that spoke directly to me, not merely because of how foxy the doctor looked, but because of its deep-in-the-jungle exoticness. Though I was 23, dead broke, and the lease on our B Street and Congress building site in Boston was expiring, my desire at that time was to sail to the farthest corners of our world. I saw the entire planet as my classroom. Surely Borneo, where they were teaching orangutans sign
language, would be a good place to start to learn. So, with the brashness of youth, I convinced my wife, Carolyn, that once we launched our boat, we should sail there—without even knowing exactly where Borneo was, except that it was far, far away from chilly Boston. Of course, life got in the way. It always does. Our daughter was born. Hurricanes loomed. Boats sank and others were refloated. Taxes needed to be paid. More shore jobs were offered than I had the
energy to turn down. And I’m slow—slow on all levels. But I’m also tenacious, and I clutch my dreams fiercely. Thus, 26 years later, in 2001, I tossed my anchor in the muddy Kumai River across from a sleepy village on Borneo’s south coast, with a lone barefoot man in a dugout canoe rowing toward us. His name was Herman Herry Roustaman. He was small in stature but huge in personality. He exuded both charm and warmth, and his lust for living was contagious. “What you need, Skipper— you need diesel fuel?” I admitted I did. “No problem, Skip!” he said as he grabbed my two fuel jugs, tossed them into his wobbly dug-out, and graciously cleared a place for me amid the bilge water and floating fish guts. I grimaced as I sat down (while silently cursing myself for going commando that day). We chatted. I immediately liked him. He was wildly enthusiastic. His grandiose dream was to lure away the local loggers (and thus stop their habitat destruction) with renewable and sustainable profits from tourism. This was all well and good, but I thought that, perhaps, he should first organize the buying of a pair of shoes. He rowed me to a 55-gallon drum on the shore. It had some oily black fluid floating it in, along with what appeared
COURTESY GARY M. GOODLANDER (3)
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T H E Tw o C OV E R G I R L S of BORNEO
gone. They’ve graduated. How does Galdikas find her wards? What are some common reasons orangutans are orphaned? For some, it’s due to intentionally set or accidental forest fires. Mothers are killed by loggers, or some by palm-oil farmers. Galdikas’ goal wasn’t to take care of orphaned orangutans— it was exactly the opposite.
Galdikas has built thousands of nests over the years for the edification of hundreds of freedom-aspiring orangutans. African backyard to send three idealistic women into the world to save the great apes. You probably already know the life stories of two of those dynamic women. Dian Fossey (of Gorillas in the Mist fame) studied gorillas in Rwanda until she was tragically killed by poachers in 1985. And Jane Goodall has won a number of prestigious international awards for her work with chimpanzees. However, few folks know the name Birutè Galdikas. Why? Because Goodall and Fossey were forced to shake the Western money tree to fund their research, while Galdikas just nonchalantly climbed into a tree in Indonesia and started teaching orphaned baby orangutans how to build nests in order to survive in the wild.
A riverboat meets the Goodlanders at their ketch, Ganesh, to take them another 20 miles upriver to Camp Leakey (top). Their travel takes them past a typical Borneo village.
dependent on their mothers; the fathers play no role in their upbringing. Up until the age of four, they don’t even let go of their mothers. By seven, if they’ve learned their lessons well, they’ll begin to play farther and farther from their mother, until one day—they’re
It was to truly mother and mentor them, to teach the babies how to be themselves and to learn the skills needed to survive in the wild. For example, orangutans build a new nest in a new location each day. Thus, nest building is a mandatory, life-enabling
skill. Galdikas has built thousands of nests over the years for the edification of hundreds of freedom-aspiring orangutans. To say this is labor-intensive is a huge understatement. The doctor is nothing if not resolute. She has literally hung in there despite the fact that male orangutans are eight times stronger than their human counterparts, and she often must work with them far off the ground. No scientist before or since has attempted such a thing for such a sustained period of time, let alone been responsible for 250 clueless baby orangutans returning to the wild as budding adults. It was into this strange world that we arrived in 2001 with our new buddy-for-life and river-guide-forever Herry at our side. The moment we stepped onto the dock at Camp Leakey, the Orangutan Foundation International’s rehabilitation center founded by Galdikas, we were greeted by a friendly female orangutan making weird gang-member signs at me. Yes, I’d finally met Princess, who wasn’t merely still alive but in the prime of life. Herry watched her intently, then informed me. “She’s bored and wants to play. Actually, she’d prefer a snack first. Bananas and milk, perhaps?” “I can’t believe I’m in the presence of, well, magazine royalty,” I laughed. Then I added, “Where’s the hot doctor?” “Dr. Birutè is…” Herry said as he pointed a finger to the sky and the dense forest canopy above. Sure, we could interview her, but only if we could find her. And finding the busy doctor in a rainforest is akin to searching for the proverbial needle in a haystack, assuming the haystack is hundreds of feet tall, thousands of hectares wide, and made of hardwood. Part of the reason that Galdikas the scientist is so elusive is because the National Geographic article in question
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She didn’t play the big-money fundraising game. She quietly went her own way, did her own thing, and never kowtowed to “The Man”; she let it all hang out from atop lofty, swaying trees. In order to understand the lifelong dedication of Galdikas, you have to understand orangutans. They live to be more than 50 years old. Their young are entirely
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to be some leaves and a dead rat. “How many gallons would you like, Skip?” he asked. I informed Herry that I could buy only clean, filtered diesel fuel. He frowned, thought about it a second, then whipped off his T-shirt, stretched its cotton fabric over his funnel, and poured away. How can anyone not love such an entrepreneur? “You like orangutans?” Herry asked as he poured. “I have friend with riverboat, and he likes to cook. We all go see orangutans?” Actually, bits of this convoluted tale began in Africa at about the same time we were building our boat in Boston. In the early 1970s, the highly charismatic Louis Leakey, a British paleoanthropologist and archaeologist working in Kenya, took time out from digging up skulls from his
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helped to spark a giant controversy among linguists over what exactly animalto-human “speech” and “communication” is. More than one linguist accused her interactions with orangutans as overstepping her scientific bounds. Back in Borneo, Galdikas didn’t climb out of the trees long enough to reply. After all, why bother when she was riveted by her swaying subjects, not the nitpicking greater scientific community. Luckily, nobody told Princess of the controversy, and she was able to maintain her sunny disposition. We spent the ensuing days playing with Princess and the other orangutans, and we met many of the Dayak park rangers, most of whom were just a generation or two away from their headhunting ancestors. We even met Barry the Gibbon, a small ape that looked more like a monkey without a tail than a great ape. He moves through the dense jungle so fast that you can’t see him, only where he’s been by the shaking of the vegetation. We were absolutely riveted by the entire otherworldly scene in 2001, but our weather window across the Indian Ocean was opening up. As we departed, never having managed to meet Galdikas, we vowed to return to Borneo ASAP—which turned out to be 18 years later, in 2019, in the midst of our latest circumnavigation. Now, it is always tricky going back to a cruising destination that has touched your heart because you’re almost guaranteed to be disappointed. But not this time, not for us. Though we’d heard our beloved Princess has passed, if anything, our second visit was better than the first. Kumai is now a city of 50,000, not a village of 400. Herry not only owns a highly successful regionwide tour agency, but he is also head of the Green Team, a group of
environmentally concerned local river and forest guides who chip in their own pennies to buy buffer parcels of land between the orangutans and the palm-oil plantations. And yes, Herry finally has a pair of shoes. Even better, his hippielike equation suggesting ecology plus orangutans equals wealth is finally coming true for thousands of Indonesians. Illegal logging
the Kumai River. We took pains to anchor well because the reversing currents are strong and the occasional squalls fierce. Then we engaged an around-the-clock guard to sit in the cockpit, with the boat locked and alarmed. We then transferred to a shoal-draft, narrower vessel in which we motored an additional 20 miles up the muddy Sekonyer tribu-
Displays at Camp Leakey include a comparison of an orangutan and human head (top). Even in Borneo, people like their selfies. Carolyn stops for one with a shopkeeper.
is way, way down, and the big surging industry in Borneo that is now doing all the hiring is tourism. Regardless, getting to Camp Leakey is still a challenge. First, we putt-putted Ganesh, our 43-foot Wauquiez ketch, 20 miles up
tary, until the dense jungle vegetation leaning in from both banks began to slow our progress. As the jungle closed in on us, proboscis monkeys tittered at our foolishness. Owls thought we were a hoot. Monitor lizards—all
7 feet of them—slithered on the riverbank mere feet away. Poisonous sea snakes poked up their heads with interest. Oriental pied hornbills fluttered. Stork-bill kingfishers flew up. And mighty trees shook alarmingly in the distance, a promise of huge beasts to come. Ah, Borneo! You can’t get more primitive here on Earth without a time machine. Shortly after our third crocodile sighting, we came to a familiar dock. It had barely changed in the intervening 18 years. I was securing our forward spring line as Princess’ son, Percy, approached. He’s 16 now, and like teenagers everywhere, perhaps a bit wary. We’d never met. “I used to know your mother back in the day,” I said, standing stock still. While I dearly love animals, I’m also a human who has survived thus far because I never forget that a wild animal is a wild animal. Percy approached. I stood my ground and forced myself not to smile. A show of teeth indicates a desire to fight. Carolyn was more cautious. She stepped back on the boat. “Careful,” she hissed to me. “Don’t grin, don’t establish eye contact, don’t act aggressive!” Ah, the tricky social situations you find yourself in while world cruising! Once Percy got our measure, however, there was no problem, other than his openly coveting Carolyn’s iPhone. He even lazily guided us into the reception area. I couldn’t help but be proud that we were meeting an entirely new generation of orangutans this circumnavigation—and that in primitive Borneo, the more things change, the more they stay the same. Cap’n Fatty and Carolyn Goodlander are now anchored back in their beloved Singapore, aboard their ketch, Ganesh, swinging through the Asian skyscrapers.
COURTESY GARY M. GOODLANDER (2)
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O N WA T C H
Po i n t o f Vi e w Looking for a new hobby that complements the cruising life? Try the Japanese art of fish printing. B Y
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SOMETHING Fi s h y ’s G O I N G O n
A
fter cruising aboard our boats for 30 years or so, my wife, Liz, and I figured we’d done just about everything one could do in a small space surrounded by water. That is, until we connected with circumnavigators Caryn and Gary on San Diego-based Windflower. They certainly added to our repertoire of things to do while afloat. Our education took place in beautiful Chamela Bay on Mexico’s Pacific Coast. I was returning to Feel Free, our Spencer 51, after a successful spearfishing excursion on the reef off the point. So successful, I thought I should
share the wealth with our new neighbors on Windflower. In the dinghy were the usual suspects—triggerfish, parrotfish, hogfish, and a porgy or two. Immediately after accepting the offer of fish, Caryn exclaimed: “They’re gorgeous! We have to print them before they’re cleaned!” “Excuse me?” I muttered. “Have you heard of gyotaku? It’s the Japanese technique of fish printing.” Not only had I never heard of it, but Liz and I had spent a fair bit of time in Japan aboard our first boat, Hoki Mai, which made me feel even more cerebrally challenged. Caryn insisted I come aboard so they
could show me some of their fish prints. They unrolled sheets of mulberry paper and rice paper with beautiful black prints of fish they had caught throughout their travels. I was blown away. “Why don’t you come back with Liz, and we’ll show you how to do it?” The remainder of the morning was taken up aboard Windflower printing triggers, parrot- and hogfish—and so began our most recent obsession and our campaign to share this super-cheap, super-easy and super-fun art form that appeals to just about anyone who appreciates the beauty of a fish. Gyotaku (ghee-yo-TAH-koo) began aboard Japanese fishing boats in the 19th century as a means of logging the fisherman’s catch. Fishing boats
were supplied with sumi ink and rice paper to quickly and easily record what they caught. It was then and still is a simple but accurate way to record the type and size of fish. A good fish rubbing is probably the most accurate image, in every detail, of a fish’s external features. A photo won’t show the true size of a fish, but a fish rubbing will. It has since morphed into a popular modern art form. Gyotaku can be seen in galleries, museums and Japanese restaurants around the world. The basics of gyotaku are simple: Take a newly dead fish and paint it on one side. Then
They unrolled sheets of rice paper with beautiful black prints of fish they had caught throughout their travels. I was blown away. take a piece of fabric, rice paper or even a T-shirt, and place it on the painted side of the fish, and rub the material so that the paint is transferred to the material. Remove the material from the fish and— voilà!—you have your fish print. It can be as basic as that.
TOM MORKIN (4)
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No fish? No worries! The captain of a sport-fishing boat let us borrow a dorado he caught so we could make this print.
the same screen to create the impression of a school of fish. Here is a description of how Liz and I approach gyotaku. Maybe you will be inspired to let your imagination have a go at it too. Step 1: Procure fish: Catch, shoot, buy or borrow. Yes, borrow. In Mazatlán, we borrowed a recently caught dorado from a sport-fishing boat. The captain allowed us to print his dorado, and in return we gave him one of two printed screens. He was stoked! Step 2: Rinse any slime off the fish, then gently wipe one side of the fish dry, including fins. You can use rubbing alcohol and lots of newspaper, dry rags or paper towels. Step 3: Seal off any orifices, which tend to leak a bit, with tissues to prevent contamination of the print. Step 4: Lay out the fish in the desired position on a drop sheet. We often fan out the dorsal, pectoral and tail fins, and hold them open by placing bits of newspaper under them. Step 5: Paint the fish with your paint and color of choice. Currently, we are using a very inexpensive, water-soluble color-fast acrylic paint found in paint stores everywhere. If you choose the traditional route, use Japanese sumi or India ink found in art-supply stores. Rice and mulberry paper can be found there too. Be careful to paint the body of the fish, skipping the eye, and paint in the direction of the scales. The pupil can be painted by hand on the print later. If the fish is small enough, pick it up to paint to ensure that no paint ends up on the drop sheet, which can spoil the print. Step 6: Carefully place fabric or rice paper on the fish, and massage gently to transfer the paint onto the material. This is the Zen part of the operation. Fish prints on T-shirts (top) can make a great gift. Multiple prints of the same fish (center) create an interesting look. We enjoy teaching gyotaku to other cruisers (bottom).
Step 7: Remove the printed material and, presto, you have your print. Remember the paint will still be a little wet, so treat it accordingly. Step 8: Wash the paint or ink off the fish with water while the paint is still wet, fillet the fish, cook and enjoy. We ascribe to the policy of you print it, you eat it! You are now a gyotaku artist. Repeat as often as you like with the same fish. You’ll see each print is unique.
AN IMPRESSIVE D I S P L AY Legend has it that in the early 1800s, a Japanese emperor landed an impressive red snapper on an imperial fishing outing. Of course, he wanted to eat the snapper, his favorite food, but he also wanted to show it off, display it in the palace for all to marvel at. His answer? He ordered his servants to paint the fish and take a rubbing with material they had on board. He and his royal court could then admire the beautiful fish rubbing hanging on the wall in the imperial dining room while enjoying their fabulous feast. You could say that he had his fish and ate it too.
Now that you know how to print fish, what do you want to do with the prints? Let your creativity be your guide. Try wall hangings, aprons, T-shirts, cushion covers, tablecloths, table runners and greeting cards. Liz has made dozens of items, and they make great gifts. Cruisers are so curious about our fish prints that Liz and I have held workshops on board Feel Free. The looks on our students’ faces when they produce their first print is always fun. Try it, you’ll like it! Tom Morkin and his wife, Liz, began cruising in 1985, and since then have sailed to 50 countries aboard two boats, Hoki Mai and Feel Free.
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coloration of the fish or even to color it in a fanciful way. You can paint the fish with color—or add color after first printing in black—to add definition and jazz it up. You can also print multiple types of fishes on one screen, or use the same fish again and again on
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Of course, should you wish to get more elaborate, the sky is the limit. Many—Liz and me included—have deviated from the traditional Japanese style of black (sumi ink) on rice paper to use a variety of media, as well as include colors that try to replicate the
Dragging to Freedom reedom
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Story and Photos by Jordan Wi c h t
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A y o u n g , e n te rp r i s i n g co u p l e with big dreams and a small bank account set forth cruising with hopes of f i n d i n g w o r k to f i n a n ce t h e i r travels along the w a y. Wa s i t e v e n p o s s i b l e ? A f te r a h e a r t- s to p p i n g incident off the c o a s t o f Me x i co , they had their a n s w e r.
For Jordan and Desiree, relaxing aboard Atticus, all’s well that ended well.
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“ To m y h o r r o r, t h e r e w a s At t i c u s , p o u n d i n g b r o a d s i d e i n t o a s h a l l o w s a n d y a r e a j u s t o f f t h e m a r i n a. ”
know that sickly feeling you get when you leave your home in the morning, come back in the afternoon, and it’s gone? No? You don’t? Well, I do. It was a hot, calm morning on the western edge of the Yucatan Channel. The moderate easterly breeze that had carried us here from Cabo San Antonio, Cuba, had faded, and now the flat sea and hotel-filled skyline of the Riviera Maya baked under the bright blue sky. I was on deck hiding in whatever shade I could find as Desiree, my fiancee (now wife), spent her off watch asleep below. The tightly sheeted mainsail gently slatted back and forth as Atticus, our 1963 Allied Seawind 30, motored through the glassy water. Fishermen waved as they sped past in their heavy wooden pangas bound for Isla Mujeres, our destination and port of entry into Mexico. Our adventure began two months earlier when we sailed from Florida to Cuba with only $2,000 and the goal of working while we cruised. We both had plenty of experience working on boats, but we were still intimidated by the gigantic leap of doing freelance boatwork for other cruisers in foreign countries. How much would people be willing to pay us in a developing nation? How would we source materials? Would people even hire us? As we dropped the hook upon arriving to Isla Mujeres, these questions led us to seriously wonder if our goal was achievable. I could already feel my nightly bout of anxiety beginning to build in my chest. That night, the humid stillness of the day was blasted away by a cold front with sustained 25-knot winds that howled through the anchorage from the northwest, its only exposed quarter. As newbie cruisers, it was our first experience being anchored out in a blow with the Q flag still up, and I was under the impression that it was illegal to delay checking into a country once we had arrived. The next morning, we figured the best course of action was to go ashore first thing, officially check in, and get back to the boat as quickly as possible. We duly headed in and, after a four-hour bureaucratic runaround, we were casually informed that there was some trouble out in the anchorage and that we should go check on our boat. So while Desiree finished the check-in process, I walked back to the dinghy dock telling myself over and over that I had nothing to worry about. Conditions in the harbor had gotten sportier, and I had to be careful in our 8-foot RIB to time my approach up and over each wave. As I slowly made my way downwind through the anchorage, I struggled to climb the crests one at a
time and then plow down into the trough. Motoring past the last boat in the group, I laughed at myself for somehow slipping right past Atticus. I turned around and started back the other way, my palms beginning to sweat as I pounded into the chop. Motoring into the wind, my clothes soon became soaked, the salt water stinging my eyes as I searched. By the time I made it to the other side of the anchorage, my pulse began to quicken. I stood up in our dinghy, balancing against the chop, desperately looking side to side, scanning the relatively small anchorage. That’s when I felt the floor pull out from under me. Our home—and all our possessions, the sum total of our meager life savings and the culmination of three years of hard work—was nowhere to be seen. Then I heard a loud whistle from the boat next to me. A man popped his head out from under his cockpit enclosure. “Looking for your boat?” he hollered. “Yes!” I yelled back over the wind, trying to hide my desperation.
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DRAGGING TO FREEDOM
Jordan landed a big one on the way from Cuba to Mexico (above), but once in Isla Mujeres, in a big northerly, there was drama aboard Atticus (left).
“It’s at El Milagro,” he said. “Over there.” He pointed to a nearby marina. “It’s tied up just beyond that sailboat on the left.” To my horror, there was Atticus, listing 20 degrees and pounding broadside into a shallow sandy area just off the marina, a spiderweb of lines keeping her from being pushed farther onto the beach. As I approached, I could hear a heart-stopping creaking sound coming from those lines with each passing wave. My first glimpse of damage was a stanchion that had been severely bent like a piece of steamed oak. I was in too much shock to properly analyze the situation, and I assumed that the damage was prolific. My fears were confirmed when I saw the stern rail, a corner of which
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“I think we both knew that I was asking her for something more: to commit to a l i f e o f i n s e c u r i t y, b u t a l s o a d v e n t u r e . . . t o a l i f e a t s e a. ”
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had been crushed into a V shape. On the verge of panic, I noticed that a crowd had assembled on the dock. Atticus seemed to be staying put, so I dinghied over to ask for advice and/or assistance. Embarrassed and in shock, I climbed onto the dock, pointed to Atticus and declared, “I’m that guy.” The crowd directed me to Eric, the owner of the marina. I walked over to him fully expecting to be barraged with anger, insults and perhaps a lawsuit. I began to apologize profusely, but after a minute of blabbering, he interrupted. “OK, man, just calm down,” he said. “Don’t worry, the damage to the other boats is minimal—literally one scratch in some gelcoat, that’s it.” Minimal damage…one scratch… I was slow to match his words to their meaning. “Your boat, although not ideally moored, isn’t going anywhere. Stay here for the night until the winds die down. You’re welcome to use the showers.” Showers? “Also, we’re having a barbecue tonight. Normally it costs $15, but the food is on me. Now have a beer and relax.” Barbecue?!
servirle?” What can I do for you? As the afternoon wore on, we took a ferry across Havana harbor, and with the sun dropping low in the sky, I urged Desiree to hurry up toward the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña, which was still another mile up the hill. As we passed a large statue of Jesus, Desiree asked if we could stop to check it out. “No, it’s getting late,” I said picking up the pace.
Only
a couple of weeks earlier, we’d awoken to our first morning in Havana’s Marina Hemingway. We ate a quick breakfast and stepped out into the crisp tropical winter air to hail a shared taxi, locally known as a maquina. We didn’t know how to identify one, so we asked a passerby which cars to flag down, and he pointed at an old, beat-up, darkly painted Ford sedan from the early ’50s, and said any car that looks like that is a maquina. We raised our hand and the jalopy pulled over. We both crammed into the front seat with the driver and were whisked away toward Old Havana. We spent the day rambling around the narrow streets and crumbling colonial buildings, taking in the vibrant colors, strong odors, and overall vivaciousness of a city that was literally falling apart. We approached one old colonial building with 10-foot-tall wooden doors, above which stood half a balcony, slanted at a precarious angle with red stains running down from the rusting rebar; the other half of the balcony was at our feet in a pile of rubble. We assumed the building was condemned, but inside we found a functioning nail salon with a young girl sitting with her hands laid out on a table, gossiping with the nail technician who turned toward us and asked, “En que puedo
Following their passage to Isla Mujeres (opposite), the couple found plenty of work on canvas projects (top) and building rudders (above).
“What’s the rush?” Desiree asked, her face damp with sweat. “Just want to make it for sunset,” I replied. “That’s all.” We rushed through the fort’s large gate, speed-walking past the gift shop and lookout posts, the stone walls passing by in a blur. “Where are we going?” Desiree asked, out of breath. We made it to the western wall that overlooks the city, with a picturesque view of the sunset.
“Let’s get a photo,” I said. Desiree stood in front of one of the fort’s large old cannons, with the city behind her and the sun about to touch the horizon. I set the camera down on another aged gun, framed the shot, and hit the red video record button. Then I awkwardly skipped over next to her, got down on one knee and, ring in hand, asked her to marry me. I think we both knew that I was asking her for something more: to commit to a life of insecurity and perhaps even financial instability, but also adventure. I was really asking her to commit to a life at sea. As the last rays of the Havana sun turned the scene a soft orange, she said yes. Soon after, we set sail from Havana to cruise the northwest coast of Cuba. Although we had done a fair bit of sailing aboard Atticus back in Florida, the next couple of weeks was our very first experience cruising a foreign coast, with the constant fear of bad weather and poor anchorages, with reef passes and rounding headlands, with living on the move in unfamiliar waters. Those weeks rank among the most stressful I have ever experienced…and possibly the most thrilling of my life. One night, after running aground for the first time while making our way into a very protected mangrove lagoon, Desiree and I turned off the lights in the boat, and sat in the cockpit in complete and utter darkness. There was no moon that night, and the stars were covered by an overcast sky with zero light pollution in such a remote part of the coast. The air was so still and the night so silent that I felt as though the universe had melted away, and all that was left was the sound of Desiree’s voice and the feeling of her hand in mine. The next day we continued west and spent several days anchored at Cayo Levisa, where our daily routine consisted of breakfast, equipping the dinghy for a long day of exploration, snorkeling, spearfishing, cleaning the fish, rinsing the gear, cooking dinner and going to bed exhausted. One morning we awoke before dawn and, in the twilight, motored our dinghy to shore for a sunrise beach walk. With the dark sky giving way to dim hues of red and yellow, we walked through sand, damp underfoot with the evening’s dew. Desiree wrote the word “Atticus” in the sand which, along with our footprints, were the only imperfections on the untouched beach. As the sky lightened and the sun broke the horizon, we walked on,
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DRAGGING TO FREEDOM
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DRAGGING TO FREEDOM
When
I finally got a chance to survey the damage sustained by Atticus after our dragging incident, I was astonished to find that the bent stanchion and stern rail were the only casualties. I was thrilled that the damage was so minimal but doubted that we could afford even these minor repairs. A few days later we went to speak with Johne, a welder and fellow cruiser, to get a quote from him. As we walked down the dock, I wondered if we should just return to the United States and give up this stupid notion that we could make money while we cruised. We found Johne sitting with his wife, Aeon, on the aft deck of their 61-foot trawler, Second Star. “Been there, done that,” Johne said. “You dragged anchor here?” I asked. “Oh, yeah. We went ashore one day about seven years ago and came back to find the boat tied up to a marina,” he said. “It’s a mistake that many cruisers make early in their career, not prioritizing staying with the boat in a blow. People just don’t realize how terrible the holding is here until they experience it for themselves.” “So, welcome to the club,” Aeon said. Desiree laughed and said: “Thanks! Now I don’t feel like such a loser.” “Oh, you’re still a loser! But at least you know there are a lot of other really cool people in that really cool loser’s club with you,” Aeon said, smiling. “Sometimes you watch the show,” Johne said, “and sometimes you are the show.” Eventually the subject came up of our work experience, specifically all of the fiberglass projects I’d done refitting Atticus over the years. It also came up that we were running low on cash and were hoping to find work. “Well, that’s what we’ve done. For the past seven years, we’ve been cruising the Caribbean and working along the way,” he said. “And I can tell you there’s more work out there than you can shake a stick at.”
“I sure hope so,” I said. The desperation in my voice was palpable. Johne looked at me silently for a moment, obviously thinking. “Listen, I’ve got a job building a new rudder for a guy who hit a reef in Cuba,” Johne said. “I’m not a fan of grinding fiberglass, so if you want to help with the glassing, I’d be happy to give you the work. Can you start tomorrow at 0800?” “Yes!” “He’s a perfectionist, so he’s a huge pain in the ass to work with,” Aeon said. “You sure you want the job?” “That won’t be a problem,” I said, smiling. It took us three weeks to complete the rudder, with Johne handling the welding, me doing most of the glassing, and both of us shaping the foam. We worked well together and became fast friends. Through
Atticus may not be the biggest boat (left), but she’s very capable. After all, she brought Desiree and Jordan to Mexico for their wedding day (above).
that summer, Johne and I built a total of four rudders for cruisers who had found the bottom in various parts of the western Caribbean, and we began to refer to our unofficial business as “The Utter Rudder.” Meanwhile, Desiree was getting more boat canvas work than she and her little Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 sewing machine could handle. So we moved Atticus to the same dock as Second Star, and Desiree struck a deal with the marina owner to use a vacant room in the hotel as her sail loft, as well as to waive our slip fee in exchange for labor. While working together, I discovered that the secret to Johne’s professional success was his merciless work ethic. One of his favorite sayings was, “If you don’t stop moving, you won’t get stuck.” In
my limited experience, I had still seen a lot of potential cruisers get “stuck” and, after seeing so many people give up their cruising dreams, I began to question if cruising long-term was even possible for someone of modest means. But Johne showed me another way. His experience sailing the Caribbean was quite different from most cruisers. While others were at the bar, he was at the boatyard. While others were touring ancient ruins, he was scouring tiendas and sourcing parts. But through his hard work and sacrifice, he was doing more than just making money; he was building and maintaining a cruising lifestyle, one that he could enjoy for the rest of his life. Johne taught me many things, but most important, he taught me how, through focus and sacrifice, not to get stuck. That fall, we took on a massive project, building a 7-foot swim-platform extension for a 58-foot Bertram. One morning at 0750, as our crew trickled into the boatyard for another day’s work, Johne and I leaned against a work bench sipping our coffee. The sun had not quite risen above the trees and the air was not quite hot yet as we gazed at the red and pink fairing-covered extension, dreading the moment when we would both don our gloves and dust masks, grab our long sanding boards, and begin sanding the large extension by hand under the tropical sun. “Having any fun yet?” Johne asked with a smirk, for possibly the 500th time. I turned from Johne and stared at the arduous task that lay before us. I began to think of all the years I had dreamed of cruising, all those countless hours I spent reading the Pardeys, Hiscocks, Beth Leonard, Hal Roth and so many others. All those nights sleeping in the V-berth, on the hard, dreaming of the cruising lifestyle, and the weeks that we spent blissfully exploring in Cuba. Through it all, I had been haunted by a single question: How was I, a young man who had thrown away everything to live and work on boats, ever going to afford to cruise? I put down my coffee, and grabbed my gloves and dust mask. “I sure am,” I answered. After working in Isla Mujeres for over a year, Jordan and Desiree Wicht saved enough cash to sail south to explore the western Caribbean. To watch the video of Jordan proposing to Desiree (S02E06) or to see Atticus dragging anchor (S02E11), check out their YouTube channel, Sailing Project Atticus.
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and Desiree gave me a detailed description of the plot of Dirty Dancing, which she could not believe I hadn’t seen. About 30 minutes into her story, I stopped to watch a dozen hermit crabs busying themselves along the shoreline as little wavelets broke upon the calm shore. “And that’s when Patrick Swayze walks over to her parents and says,” she yelled, pointing an accusing finger, “‘Nobody puts Baby in a corner!’” I had never been happier.
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“My f r i e n d Jo h n e t a u g h t m e m a n y t h i n g s, b u t m o s t i m p o r t a n t, h e t a u g h t m e h o w, t h r o u g h f o c u s a n d s a c r i f i c e, n o t t o g e t s t u c k . ”
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From new sails to a varied collection of tiller pilots, there’s kit aboard the Moore 24 Gannet that worked... and some that didn’t.
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Last
year, I completed my sixth circumnavigation. Not a statement you hear every day. I deliberately chose to make this voyage in Gannet, an ultralight Moore 24, because I wanted a new-to-me experience, and it was. I have sailed an even smaller and more radical boat, Chidiock Tichborne, an 18 -foot Drascombe Lugger, most of the way around the world, but Gannet is different, and I learned some things along the way that might be of interest and use to others. T h e Un e x p e c t e d
B i g g e s t Im p ro v e m e n t s
Gannet has only 2 feet of freeboard. I knew she would be wet, but she was even wetter. Until I installed a spray hood over the companionway in Durban, South Africa, water poured below even with the hatches closed. I have written that there is waterproof and there is Gannet-proof, which is exceeded only by that of submarines, one of which she often resembles. Fortunately, I do not get seasick, but I have never before stepped ashore after a passage and felt the land move. Gannet’s acceleration is so fast and her motion so quick, that even after a short passage, I always felt the land move for several hours—most noticeable when I closed my eyes in the shower.
I made the most significant major improvement after I reached New Zealand, when I removed the traveler bridge from the cockpit, put the traveler on the cockpit sole, and installed a pedestal for the main sheet and backstay control line. Stepping over the bridge was always inconvenient, and at sea sometimes hazardous. Removing it opened up the cockpit and made sailing Gannet easier and safer. The second major improvement was adding the spray hood. I made several unsuccessful attempts to reduce the ingress of water around the companionway, but it was not until a Dutch sailor sent me photos of a simple spray hood he had built for his
own boat that I found a design that would work and still be easily and quickly raised and lowered, even from inside the cabin. After it was in place, some water still made its way below, but much less. The third-biggest improvement was made both in New Zealand and in Marathon, Florida, when I replaced my sails. I had used the same sailmaker for many years, but he made serious mistakes with my last two orders. He is now retired. In New Zealand, I replaced the asymmetrical with a North Sails G2. I wanted a sail that I could use beam reaching as well as running. I chose North because they had a loft at Opua, in the Bay of Islands. When the sail arrived, I was
impressed by how superior the workmanship was over the old sail, and when I used it, how superior the performance. Cut lower than the old sail, it did not furl evenly with my Facnor gennaker furler, so I replaced that with a ProFurl Spinex top-down furler on which the sail has always furled perfectly. By the time I reached Marathon, Florida, three years and more than 20,000 miles into the voyage, the mainsail was showing signs of UV degradation, so I decided to replace it and the furling jib. Having had a good experience with the G2, I contacted North and bought from them a new main and jib made with their 3Di process. Again, the workmanship is excellent. North’s 3Di sails are laminated, not sewn, and I have never had anything like them. When I first bent them on, they were like sheet metal. They have since become more pliable. I even got the
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LESSONS OF THE SIXTH
Installing a spray hood to protect Gannet’s companionway from the elements was a major improvement and made life below deck immensely drier (opposite). The Velocitek ProStart, mounted on the mast (above), provided speed- and course-over-ground data that could also be read from an iPhone down below.
jib back into a sail bag in Panama. They show no wear after 7,000 miles and seem to be almost indestructible. A fourth modification was the addition of running backstays. For decades I have often sailed my boats under headsail alone but always on masthead rigs. Gannet is the first fractional rig I have owned, so after reaching Honolulu, I emailed Buzz Ballenger, who made Gannet’s spars, asking his advice, which was to add running backstays to keep the mast from pumping. I did, and used them during passages whenever I did not have the main set, and sometimes even when it was. Whether this was critical I do not know. But the mast stayed up through many gales and several masthead-in-thewater knockdowns.
W h a t Wo r ke d
Most equipment functioned properly. This is about that which functioned especially well. Sheet-to-tiller steering: I have written about this before in this magazine. It is simple, inexpensive, and steers the boat from a close reach to a broad reach. Sheet-to-tiller steering was used for more than half of the 30,000 miles Gannet covered during the circumnavigation. Tiller pilots: This will come as a surprise to those who know how many tiller pilots failed during the voyage. I am going to include them in what did not work too. I had two different makes of tiller pilot on board, a Pelagic and numerous Raymarines, some ST1000s, some ST2000s. I like the design of the Pelagic with the
electronics in boxes below deck and the motor mounted in a tube above the housing for the tiller arm. In my experience, tiller pilots fail when water gets into the housing through the opening around the tiller arm, which cannot be totally watertight. The Pelagic worked in gale-force conditions, which killed the Raymarines. However, mine, being a prototype, suffered from gremlins
that I expect will have been eliminated from production models. The past two times I tried to use it, it began to operate properly, but within minutes, spontaneously went into standby mode, which rendered it useless. I do not know how many Raymarines failed. I usually had four on board. I once sent three at one time back for repair under warranty. The first gave me false confidence, lasting 4,000 miles from San Diego to most of the way through the passage from Honolulu to Apia, Samoa, when it was swamped in a knockdown (see “Most Dangerous Moments,” p. 49). The last withstood almost all the way from Balboa, Panama, to San Diego before it quit one night. After reaching San Diego, it resumed functioning. If they can be kept reasonably
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dry, Raymarines do a good job, particularly in air too light for sheet-to-tiller steering. I did not put a self-steering vane on Gannet because the cost of reinforcing the transom and the vane would have been as much as I paid for the boat. I thought I could buy a lot of tiller pilots for that amount, and I did. I also knew that I could use sheet-to-tiller steering. I do not regret the decision not to have a vane. Solbian solar panels: I had six 25-watt panels of a different brand, all of which failed (see below). Tired of replacing them, in Australia I bought two Solbian panels. They are slightly larger than the 25-watt panels but are rated at 50 watts. When the remaining Aurinco panels failed, I replaced them with two more 50-watt Solbian panels. They have functioned properly, and none has yet failed. Each panel is wired to its own voltage booster/regulator, thanks to excellent advice I received from Tom Whitehead at Ocean Planet Energy. Yellowbrick tracker: I bought the Yellowbrick tracker so that my wife, Carol, could follow my passages. Others seemed to like to do so too, and I have found that after passages, I enjoy viewing Gannet’s track. Although the devices are waterproof, again Gannet is wetter than waterproof, and after water got into the charging port when the unit was mounted on the stern pulpit—a problem fixed free of charge by Yellowbrick although my unit was no longer under warranty—I mounted it in the cabin near the companionway where it has a view of the sky. It has since been totally reliable. I have only to set it to transmit our position at the interval I choose, and turn it on at the beginning of a passage and off at the end. Yellowbrick’s support is outstanding. In addition to the charging-port repair, I had occasion to email them questions two or three times. In each instance, I received a useful reply in hours. iPhone and iNavX: This combo was my primary chart
Gannet came with a traveler bridge that spanned the cockpit (top). Replacing it with a pedestal while in New Zealand (above) was the single best improvement made to the boat.
plotter, and completely satisfactory. In South Africa, a sailor introduced me to iSailor, which I also installed. It too does everything I need, but the charts for Gannet’s circumnavigation would have cost hundreds of dollars more from iSailor than iNavX. I also had the apps and charts on an iPad, and C-Map 93 charts in my MacBook, but I primarily used the iPhone. I made my first two circumnavigations navigating with a sextant, and I have one on Gannet, just in case. Velocitek ProStart: The mast-mounted ProStart was my on-deck source of speedover-ground and course-overground. In the Great Cabin, I read its data on my iPhone. I found it accurate and readable from anywhere in the cockpit.
Jetboil flash stove: I do not cook beyond heating water. The Jetboil does this quickly. Mine is not gimbled. I set it on the cabin sole and hold it with one hand for the minute it takes to boil 2 cups of water. I bought a case of 24 gas canisters before I left San Diego; I still have six left. Pelican cases: Everything on Gannet is subject to getting wet, and if it can be damaged by water, must be stored in at least theoretically waterproof containers. Pelican cases have successfully protected my MacBook, iPad Pro and some camera gear. Cases made by Plano have also been effective. Torqeedo outboard: Gannet does not need to power far or fast, and the electric Torqeedo meets our needs without the
hazard and smell of gasoline and oil. Usually I wait to mount the Torqeedo until I reach smooth water inside a harbor. However, the morning I expected to reach Durban, South Africa, the ocean went flat for an hour, and I took advantage of the calm to mount the Torqeedo. After doing so, I tilted it out of the water, which necessitates removing what Torqeedo calls the tiller arm. Doing so exposes the connectors on the battery to the tiller arm and the drive shaft. The calm soon turned into a 55-knot gale that caused us to lie ahull for 36 hours, during which those connectors were repeatedly inundated. Not surprisingly, they subsequently failed. I bought a new Torqeedo, and it has always functioned properly. UE Boom 2 Bluetooth speakers: These are waterproof and nearly indestructible, with good stereo sound via their app. GoPro Hero 5 Black: This is the first GoPro I have liked. Linear mode gets rid of the distorted wide-angle curves, and the touchscreen makes going through menus painless. At the request of others, I began to shoot video halfway through the circumnavigation. I wish I had started from the beginning. I also shot with my iPhone and a Nikon AW1. On the last full day of the voyage, I started to shoot a video with the Nikon. After a few minutes the battery died, so I shot the rest on the GoPro. Comparing the footage from both cameras afterward, the GoPro’s is dramatically superior. W h a t D i d n’t Wo r k
Aurinco solar panels: I had six 25-watt deck-mounted Aurinco solar panels. All failed. I replaced several. All replacements failed. Aurinco is no longer in business. Tiller pilots: See above. Raymarine wireless wind system: In part, this was due to the masthead going in the water three times, for which no instruments are designed. But replacement units also failed without being dunked.
Though waterproof, the Yellowbrick tracker was damaged when it got soaked while mounted on the stern rail. Moving it below and mounting it near the companionway where it could see the sky was a much better idea. In v a l u a b l e K i t
Three things I am glad I had and glad I didn’t use: a Jordan drogue, emergency rudder and a Stohlquist drysuit. Each of these cost about $1,000. Had I needed them at sea, the money would not have done me any good in my checking account. T h e B e s t Pa s s a g e
The best passage was the first, from San Diego to Hilo, Hawaii. This is to be expected. Once Gannet broke free of the coastal weather, it was trade winds the rest of the way, and she had her only 1,000-mile week. T h e Wo r s t Pa s s a g e
The worst passage unquestionably was the last, from Balboa, Panama, to San
Diego, which saw five of the six slowest weeks of the entire circumnavigation (see “The End of Being,” January 2020). My Biggest Mistake
Despite the fine sailing on that first passage, my biggest mistake was sailing to Hawaii instead of the Marquesas Islands because it changed the wind angle for thousands of miles afterward, causing us to have the wind forward of the beam, when from the Marquesas on across the Pacific, it would have been aft. T h e Mo s t D a n g e ro u s Mo m e n t s
The most dangerous moments occurred during the voyage’s first year. At just after noon, 350 miles north of
Apia, Samoa, I was standing in the companionway when I saw two 10-foot waves coming at us, high above the average 4-foot waves. They were steep and close together. As the first one hit, I ducked below, sliding the companionway over me. However, the vertical slat was not in place and not reachable. The second wave exploded into and over us, knocking down Gannet, masthead almost in the water. With Gannet heeled 90 degrees, I braced myself from falling and stared down at the ocean. Gannet’s lee rail was below water, the ocean only a few inches from entering the cockpit. The wave was gushing in and pressing us down. It was a matter of whether
T h e B e s t Mo m e n t s
The best moments were countless. Feeling the little boat catch a wave or a puff of wind and instantly accelerate from 6 knots to 10 or 12. Standing in the companionway listening to music and sipping a drink as she sped smoothly into the sunset. The clear night sky. The beautiful days. The purity of solitude. And the last morning, when at first light I looked across at San Diego’s Point Loma, 200 yards away, and felt the quiet satisfaction of having persevered and endured and completed the course. Webb Chiles is a writer and sailor who has completed six circumnavigations in a variety of boats. You can read more about his adventures and stories at his website, inthepresentsea.com.
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the ocean would reach the cockpit before Gannet came back up. Time slowed almost to a stop. Probably a few seconds passed. Gannet came back up. The other most dangerous moments came during the gale the morning we reached New Zealand. Winds were measured at 55 knots ashore, and 10- to 12-foot waves slammed into our beam. I was hand-steering with only a scrap of furling jib set. Often the waves knocked me from where I was sitting on the starboard side of the cockpit to my feet where I was looking down at the ocean. I could not leave the tiller to go below for my safety harness, so I tied a sail tie around my right wrist and the other end to the toe rail. As long as my arm remained attached to my body, I would remain attached to Gannet. In the 55-knot gale against the Agulhas Current off Durban, with waves reported at 20 feet, I did not feel in danger. Lying ahull, Gannet is a cork. I was wet and tired after a 6,000-mile passage and wanted the gale to end, but it was only a matter of waiting it out.
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LESSONS OF THE SIXTH
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GOING F O R G O L D TO MARK ITS 50TH YEAR IN BUSINESS, THE MOORINGS I N V I T E D FA M I LY A N D F R I E N D S T O I TS H O M E I N T H E BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS FOR A WEEK’S WORTH OF FUN AND SUN IN A SAILOR’S PARADISE. B Y
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arm trade winds gusting across the deck, blue sky overhead, a big cat beating across ocean swells along the exposed rocky Atlantic coast of Peter Island. For a tropical birthday bash, this one was getting off to a very good start. Roughly 40 hours into it, and we’d already enjoyed a kickoff dinner-dance party, had an easy sail to Norman Island, gone snorkeling at the Caves, taken a paddleboard tour of the Bight, watched in disbelief as late-afternoon partiers did unspeakable things at the bar aboard the latest iteration of the infamous William Thornton, and danced into the evening at Pirate’s Bight, on the beach. Whew—and we still had nearly a week to go! For many a sailor, there’s perhaps no better way to mark a special occasion than with a bareboat charter vacation in the British Virgin Islands. So it made perfect sense, really, that the granddaddy charter company of them all, the Moorings, would invite yacht
owners and customers back to where it all began to mark a milestone: the 50th anniversary since founders Charlie and Ginny Cary opened shop in Tortola with a fleet of six 35-foot Pearson sailboats. It’s worth recalling that when the Carys made the decision to ditch the corporate life and start anew in the islands, bareboat chartering—renting a boat and sailing it yourself with family and friends—was a new type of tropical adventure. Fifty years on, the Moorings, along with corporate cousin Sunsail, maintains the industry’s largest fleet of sail and power charter boats, available at bases around the globe.
I
t was early this past November when I flew to St. Thomas, and then the next morning hopped a ferry to Road Town, Tortola. I’d not been to the Moorings base
or the BVI since hurricanes Irma and Maria ravished the islands in 2017. Just two years later, the town was bustling with shops, restaurants and businesses, not to mention construction projects in every direction. Clearly, the islands were back in business and ready for visiting sailors. If Road Town was busy, the Moorings base at Wickhams Cay 2 was a madhouse on that Saturday morning. Outside, construction crews toiled away at the ongoing facilities’ overhaul sparked by the tropical storms and the need for more of everything: dock space, hotel rooms, provisioning and laundry services (see “Eying the Next 50,” page 48). In addition to the 100 or so sailors who were waiting to get aboard the 30 bareboat and crewed monohulls, sail and power cats taking part in the anniversary rally, scores more were arriving to begin
A pair of catamarans makes a stop at the Baths on their way to Virgin Gorda’s North Sound.
ADAM ROHRMANN
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Raising a toast are Peter Robinson and Jean Larroux (rear), and Tony and Yolanda Rainold, Maureen Larroux, Marianne Robertson and Josie Tucci.
photos of the more-popular anchorages, and then drew arrows to show passes, rocks and the like. In those days, the name of each boat was painted on a board, and strips of masking tape were used to keep track of customers. “The most amazing thing to me,” Tony says, “is that it was all accomplished before the age of computers.” E Y I N G
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fter Sunday night’s revelry at Norman Island, it was time for a sail. Outside the Bight, Richard poked Abby Normal’s bows into the wind, and we ran up the main, bore off and unfurled the jib. It took a few tacks to make it through the channel between Norman and Peter islands, but out in the Atlantic, we settled into a near reach that took
T H E
While the Moorings’ 50th-anniversary festivities naturally focused on what’s been accomplished over the past half-century, attention at the company’s base at Wickhams Cay 2 this past fall was decidedly on the future. Work to upgrade the sprawling facility—also home to the Sunsail charter fleet—had already begun when a pair of back-to-back Category 5 hurricanes leveled much of the BVIs in 2017. Hundreds of boats were sunk or damaged, along with offices, the hotel, bar and restaurant. But while the storms caused a devastating interruption to businesses in the short run, long term, they wiped the slate clean, if you will, and provided an opportunity to fast-track significant upgrades, according to Peter Cochran, vice president of operations and Antony Stewart, technical director for Travelopia Marine, owner of the two charter brands. In the marina itself, docks are being reconfigured and expanded to accommodate the growing number of large catamarans that are
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us to the wreck of the Rhone, the stern of which can be seen when snorkeling off the south side of Salt Island. The surf was lively and our stay was brief. For lunch, we rounded the corner and anchored in the lee off a sandy beach for an afternoon of hikes, swims and paddles. Later, we headed to Peter Island’s Great Harbor, where we dined
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replacing the smaller monohulls that once dominated. Repairs are essentially complete to public areas of the base, and now attention has turned to modernizing and greatly expanding facilities for services such as provisioning and laundry, both key to the base’s ability to see 800 or more charter starts a month. Across the street from the base, where the charter operations took over the old Tortola Yacht Services yard in 2009, a full-scale commercial shipyard has sprung up, thanks to a hundred or more contractors who were brought in from more than two dozen countries to get the fleets back up and sailing as quickly as possible. At the height of operations, the yard was packed with wrecks, but now that many of those are back in charter, talk has turned to new service docks, paint and work sheds, a renovated carpentry shop, and other service facilities. Most impressive, I thought as I toured the upgrades, is that all this work is underway while guests arrive by the busloads to relax.
MARK PILLSBURY (5)
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their own charters. Suitcases were stacked everywhere, and already the bar appeared to be doing a brisk business. Around noon, I met up with my shipmates, Josie Tucci, Moorings VP of sales and marketing, and Franck Baguil, VP of yacht ownership and product development, and we headed off to find our ride for the week: the Moorings 5000 Abby Normal To. Jim and Shirley TenBroeck were already aboard when we arrived for lunch, and they were being entertained by Abby Normal’s full-time captain and mate, Richard and Shannon Hallett. The TenBroecks own Westminster Teak and were a sponsor of the celebration. Meanwhile, savoring Shannon’s cooking and deciphering Richard’s strong South African accent as he told tale after tale would be two of the more enjoyable pastimes over the next few days. That evening, festivities began in earnest with the entire rally gathered under the stars for a buffet dinner. Though the Carys are both deceased, others from the early days were on hand, including Tony Rainold, a sailing pal of the Carys in New Orleans, who was a partner with them from the start. Back in the day, he was the numbers man, and also the map guy. In 1979, usable charts and cruising guides were scarce, so to keep charterers out of trouble, Tony collected black-and-white
aboard before heading ashore for what turned into a spirited ’60s party. Luckily, Franck brought costumes to spare, so he, Josie and I fit right in with the tie-dyed, granny spec, bellbottom-wearing collection that we encountered at the bar. Tuesday’s destination was Leverick Bay in Virgin Gorda’s North Sound. We got going early to beat the crowd to the popular rock formations at the Baths. Unfortunately, surf warnings were posted, and Capt. Richard was not keen on us going ashore. Instead, Josie joined another boat for the day, and Jim and Shirley were among a group who decided to jump ship at nearby Spanish Town, and travel the length of the island with Sweet Ice Willie and his pickup-truck taxi to catch the spectacular views as the road winds up and along the island’s spine. Me? I was sticking with the boat; I can ride in a truck back home. Franck had to depart the party early, so we motored across Sir Francis Drake
Channel to drop him at a dock near the airport on Beef Island. Ashore, preparations for the Trellis Bay full-moon party were well underway. En route, we stopped briefly for a swim and lunch at Diamond Reef, which, according to Richard, has some of the best snorkeling in the BVI. He might be right. That afternoon, I sat at the wheel taking long tacks from one side of the channel to the other. The sailing was lovely. The breeze was steady in the high teens, but toward either shore, it bent around to head us, making our progress slow. Finally, watching the sun dip lower, we fired up the engines and motored the remainder of the way to the anchorage. Another harbor, another party ashore—this time a Caribbean barbecue that couldn’t be beat. Later, under a full moon, several of us piled into an inflatable for a fast and memorable tour of the sound. With the Bitter End Marina gone, obliterated by Irma,
and the resort at Saba Rock still under construction, the hillsides were eerily dark, but boy, what a fun little cruise. Wednesday called for a morning sail to Anegada and a rollicking afternoon party at Cow Wreck Beach, followed by a dinner of grilled lobsters, served under the stars at the Anegada Reef Hotel. Darned if the dancing didn’t start up again too.
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can no longer say that I’ve never been to the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke. We got a jump on the day and left Anegada quite early to begin our return trek. For a change, Josie and Shannon did the sailing, and Richard and I navigated to the galley to whip up breakfast along the way. In White Bay, Richard nosed Abby Normal past the reef and anchored just yards off the beach. From there, it was a short swim ashore. Though I had a drybag for my camera and wallet, I put a $20 bill in my pocket just so I’d fit in at
Mark Pillsbury is CW’s editor.
49 march 2020
Clockwise from top left: Willie T is back at Norman Island. Local tours, courtesy of Sweet Ice Willie. Saba Rock Resort rebuilds. Tie-dye is hot at the ’60s night.
the bar. Legend has it, that’s how it got its name after all. A lazy afternoon on the beach provided a chance to catch up with fellow ralliers such as Nicole and Chip Alger from Colorado Springs, who were first-time sailors and there aboard a Moorings 5800. The charter life? They were loving it. And so were Gary and Betty Greene from Seattle. They have a Beneteau 42.3 in charter in the BVI, and first visited the islands 30 years ago. Now on their second boat, there might be a power cat in their future. While we lazed about, the Halletts moved Abby Normal to nearby Great Harbour, home to the infamous Foxy’s. To get there, Josie and I hitched a ride on the VIP boat—a crewed Moorings 5800, with Tony Rainold, Peter Robinson from Robertson and Caine, and Moorings yacht sales manager Jean Larroux aboard, along with their wives. Jean joined the Moorings early on, and pioneered the concept of owners buying boats and putting them into charter. He and Tony spun some darnedgood yarns about their early years in the Caribbean. On Friday, we were on station and ready for the paddleboard race off the beach in Cane Garden Bay, where one last party was set for that evening. Our time, though, was coming to a close. Rather than stay with the crowd, we motored back around the island for one last swim at Diamond Reef, and then anchored in Trellis Bay for one last dinner and night aboard, close enough to the Moorings base for everyone to make their flights. Two old saws come to mind when wrapping up this little tale. To be sure, all good adventures must come to an end, and so the 50th-anniversary rally did just that. But “you can’t go back again”? I’m not so sure. All you have to do is charter a boat. Once you’re sailing, the BVI will take care of the rest.
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1 C RE W TO G O L o o k i n g t o f i n d “ p i c k u p” c re w m e m b e rs t o h e l p y o u c ro s s a n o ce a n? H e re’ s h o w t w o e x p e r i e n c e d o f f s h o re c r u i s e rs m a k e t h e i r c h o i c es . B Y L I N P A R D E Y
VOYAGI N G
COURTESY DAVID HAIGH
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wo years ago, I was on a voyage to the fiords of southern New Zealand as crew aboard Sahula, a 40-foot Van de Stadt cutter owned by an Australian singlehander, David Haigh. He had been voyaging for 10 years and was just a few thousand miles from completing a circumnavigation that had started in Townsville, Australia. During that time, Haigh sailed with various crew he picked up along the way who were on board for up to three months at a time. Despite sailing solo for long stretches, Haigh never crossed an ocean alone. Coincidentally, a few months later, while we were waiting for a break in the weather at Doubtful Sound, Fiordland, I met Ralph RobeCurry, another Australian with extensive cruising experience. Robe-Curry had five “pickup” crew with him on Bomoh, his S&S-designed 52-foot sloop. I found Haigh’s and Robe-Curry’s experiences interesting. Each had different ways of selecting their crew,
David Haigh broke with his usual routine of not sailing with single women when he invited his daughter’s friend Charlie Priestly aboard, and it proved to be an excellent decision.
and handling the finances and voyage details. But each agreed that being a single sailor should not be used as an excuse to put off cruising. And their lessons apply to anyone—couples or even families—looking to add a hand or two for transoceanic trips. Only one obstacle lay in the way when, at 60 years of
age, Haigh retired from his job as a senior law lecturer in Queensland with the dream of setting sail. That obstacle was his three daughters, who worried about him setting off completely on his own. “It’s the primary reason I made sure I had crew on board for passages,” he told me. For the first year of his cruise, along
the coast of Australia and onward toward Indonesia, Haigh had a full roster of friends and family members who were interested in joining him for a few weeks at a time. Airfares to and from their homes were quite affordable, and distances and the time required to travel to and from the boat were relatively short. But as he ventured farther afield, fewer of his friends could take the time to join him unless it was for two or three weeks to a destination they were eager to explore. Furthermore, Haigh was reluctant to plan an exact itinerary, preferring to be open to spur-of-the-moment destination changes, not something that works well for friends back home. Plus, people with jobs needed to have exact dates and destinations well in advance to book flights and organize vacation time. And few had the flexibility of the time frames needed to cross oceans. So, he found it necessary to get what I call pickup crew. “It was easy,” Haigh said. “I asked my daughters to canvas
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crewmembers that they were expected to share any grievances at 1800 as they joined in evening sundowners. “By setting a definite time for discussions, it seemed to remove any tension,” Haigh said. “I also let them know that if we got on well, they were welcome to stay on for a few weeks of island hopping or coastal exploring after we’d completed the ocean passage, as sort of a reward. But as much as I also enjoyed this time, I was always pleased to have the boat back to myself when they left.” During the course of Haigh’s voyage, over 20 different pickup crew joined Sahula, some of them staying on board for up to three months at a time, and others returning for another passage. Concerned about potential problems, Haigh avoided inviting single women to crew, with one exception: a long-term friend of his daughter named Charlie Priestly, who sailed aboard Sahula from Tonga to New Zealand, and later around New Zealand, where I met her. A professional diver and keen outdoorsperson, she added a lot of zest to Haigh’s voyaging. Robe-Curry, the owner of Bomoh, works and resides in southern Australia, and doesn’t cruise full time but instead heads off to specific destinations for up to a year. Thus, he has a more organized approach than Haigh, regarding both his cruising plans and finding crew. A highly gregarious man, Robe-Curry said: “I’d done thousands of miles sailing on my own. I began to feel that singlehanding presents a lot of unnecessary risks for both me and my yacht. I also came to the conclusion that being a self-reliant sailor is a desirable trait, but it is not lessened by sailing with crew.” Robe-Curry had fallen in love with a boat that he knew stretched his budget, and one not set up for singlehanding. He discovered that having crew on board not only made exploring faraway places safer and more enjoyable, but it also helped contribute toward the expense of long-distance
cruising. He set a general itinerary several months in advance, then invited five people to join him and pay a set, daily sum to cover all onboard expenses, including food, marina and fuel costs. Robe-Curry found that this covered his general cruising costs but left little extra for boat maintenance. His itinerary had to be relatively rigid, including departure dates for each leg of a voyage, so people could come along for just parts of it if they wished. He allowed for delays such as weather or unexpected boat repairs by adding time in various ports where crew could make
overseas as to their overall suitability, especially for ocean passages. When the crew are novices, he uses a two-person watch to ease people safely into tasks with less stress. This came about after one crewman wanted to leave the boat earlier than planned. “When I asked why,” Robe-Curry said, “he said he was terrified of being alone at night at sea.” The daily sum Robe-Curry charged each crew for the voyage around New Zealand, including exploring Fiordland and the Marlborough sounds, was roughly $20 a day. As this was a daily fee, there was no
Taking on extra crew allowed Aussie Ralph Robe-Curry to venture farther afield aboard his 52-footer, Bomoh.
relatively easy connections for arrival or onward travel. Crew were recruited with relative ease through online sites, including crewbay.com and findacrew.net. RobeCurry also told me: “I placed notices at hostels, bus stops, on telephone poles, anywhere. Sometimes I had instant results. Once, after I’d done a lap of Ushuaia, Patagonia, dispersing a wad of ‘Crew Wanted’ notices, I returned to Bomoh to be greeted by a small crowd of potential crew!” Robe-Curry also said that sailing experience is not necessary, but he does not specifically look for novices. He also tries to vet crew who might have to fly in from
need for anyone to handle the accounting. It also let the crew budget for their travels in advance. “Expenses ran a bit high on this trip,” he said. “Extra time in marinas, higherthan-normal fuel costs. So I ended up probably a thousand dollars out of pocket. But I got to see another place I wouldn’t have explored without crew.” Bomoh has three separate cabins, plus bunks in the main saloon. Robe-Curry uses one cabin as his private domain. When we were sharing anchorages with them, there were two women and three men on board. This might have presented a slight problem because the best bunks were doubles. But fortunately
COURTESY RALPH ROBE-CURRY (2) AND DAVID HAIGH
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their Facebook friends, and if that didn’t turn up someone, I just posted a note at the local backpacker’s hostel. I enjoyed and preferred having young, eager people with no sailing experience. That way I could teach them to do things the way I prefer. I promised them they would have enough knowledge by the time we crossed an ocean to sail their own boat or be really good crew for someone else.” On board Sahula, Haigh took on only one crew per voyage, who was expected to pay for half the food expenses, plus half of marina and fuel costs. Shopping was done jointly so the crew could add any special treats they wanted to have on board. “I wasn’t taking crew along to finance my voyage, just to stand watches and be company. But I must admit, by splitting some of the expenses, my trip up the Danube River from the Black Sea and on through the canals of Eastern Europe was financially easier than it would have been if I had paid for it all on my own.” As for the actual accounting, Haigh asked the crew to keep track of their expenses but never asked to see the figures. “I wanted them to feel I trusted them. They told me they were amazed I was so easygoing,” he said. “But it worked out well because they seemed to go out of their way to be evenhanded.” Crew were given the complete forepeak with its large V-berth. There are doors to shut off this area from the rest of the accommodations. Spare foul-weather gear and PFDs were available on board. Crew were expected to share cooking and galley cleaning. Other than standing watches, they were not required to pitch in with boat work, but most willingly did. No alcohol was served at sea other than for a very special occasion such as crossing the equator. In port, the cost of an occasional bottle of wine was shared. Smokers were not invited. It was made clear to new
HANDS-ON SAILOR
client; they might complain if the food served is less fancy than expected, or not want to pitch in with work on board as readily. When expenses are tallied up along the way and then split, as Haigh does, this dynamic changes completely. Robe-Curry admitted that this had been an occasional problem aboard Bomoh. He tried to alleviate it by having the crew pay when it suited them, usually at the end of each leg, in hopes of promoting trust and goodwill. He said: “I have had two or three people who thought of themselves as passengers, sit-
The two skippers I came to know in Fiordland had quite different personalities: Robe-Curry being very open, Haigh more reticent. But they had certain traits that made their pickup crew experiences work well. Both really enjoy being with people at sea and ashore. Both have a willingness to share their space with strangers and to accept that someone’s annoying habits might show up only once they have been on board for a day or two. When I asked both of them to review this manuscript, they each suggested I include two
aboard, I began getting more invitations from cruising families I met along the way.” As for couples, Robe-Curry told me there was only one time when he was happy to see someone leave the boat. Two crew who flew in for the Fiordland trip first met when they came on board. They bonded instantly, fell in love, asked to share the double cabin, and then seemed to disengage from everyone else on board. This last comment reminded me of the one rule my husband, Larry, and I had when we were choosing crew for deliveries of big boats,
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for this crew, two of them struck up an almost immediate romance, and after only three weeks sailing together, were planning to continue traveling onward once the voyage was over. Otherwise, Robe-Curry said, “the first one on board gets first choice.” He said folks rarely had issues with this, but having a couple on board did make it a bit easier because they could share the other double cabin more willingly. Meals on board were tasty and simple but ample. RobeCurry also had the crew come along to shop for provisions: “That way, if someone really
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Crossing the equator on passage to French Polynesia aboard Sahula, David Haigh posed with his pickup crew, Matias and Grant (left). Ralph Robe-Curry always recruits a handful of willing sailors for his voyages on Bomoh (right).
wants to eat steak, they can add that to the basket. It also gives me an idea of what people expect to eat or what special needs they might have. It ensures everyone is happy with the menu.” Crew on Bomoh take turns in the galley. Haigh and Robe-Curry are good illustrations of two different approaches to finding crew. Over my past 50 years of voyaging, I have seen both of these methods at work. I have also noted one potential hiccup for those who choose to use a financial contribution scheme like Robe-Curry’s. Because the crew hands over a set amount of cash when they come on board, a few have expectations more like a paying
ting and doing nothing while the rest of us got underway, or refusing to pitch in when meals were being prepared. And a few did walk away without paying.” For this reason, Robe-Curry suggested that anyone deciding to use pickup crew also be prepared to handle their boat completely on their own, just in case. But his overall success rate was extremely admirable; he has had only a handful of disappointments among the more than 100 crew who have joined him for voyages around Tasmania, through the southern islands of Polynesia, and across the South Pacific to the Patagonian Canals, among other destinations.
final items: taking on couples as crew can be problematic, and having a woman on board changes the whole dynamic of a cruise…for the better. “Since I’m married, for diplomatic reasons, I took only men as crew on board Bomoh for the first few voyages,” Robe-Curry said. “Then a female friend asked to join in. I was amazed to see how the rest of the crew reacted. The boat was tidier, the whole male-macho thing calmed down. Language was more subdued. But best of all, other cruisers who were mostly couples or families started including us in their social life.” Haigh confirmed this latter aspect of cruising life: “The minute Charlie was
over 45 feet. We never took couples on board either. As Robe-Curry discovered, they can become a divisive factor. Plus, if one decided they weren’t happy and wanted to abandon ship, we actually lost two crew at the same time. The one time this happened to us was the day before setting off across the Atlantic, exactly when we most needed a full complement of pickup crew. Lin Pardey is a two-time circumnavigator and co-author, with husband Larry, of a dozen sailing books, including the recently published third edition of Self Sufficient Sailor. She’s currently in Tasmania, continuing her adventures aboard Sahula.
2 A PL A C E F O R EV E RY T HI NG W h e n i t w a s t i m e t o u p g ra d e t h e n a v i g a t i o n s t a t i o n a b o a rd h i s o w n o f f s h o re c r u i s i n g b o a t , a s e a s o n e d - p ro f es s i o n a l d e l i v e r y s k i p p e r k n e w ex a c t l y w h a t h e w a n t e d . B Y A N D R E W B U R T O N
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hen you get right down to it, the chart table is the heart of any offshore cruising boat. It’s here that we plot our cruises and courses. Traditionalists like me still drag out paper charts, marking noon positions or poring over them, while noting coves and inlets and wondering how they look in real life. And isn’t that part of the joy of cruising? That means my chart table has to be big enough to spread out a little. On my boats, because I’m often living aboard for stretches at a time, the chart table has also had to do double duty as my office, so it has to be tidy and efficient. When my wife and I acquired our second boat from the Massachusetts Maritime Academy’s excellent boat-donation program— director Chuck Fontaine suggested that I should enter the Newport Bermuda Race and take a bunch of Academy cadets with me as part of the crew. That sounded like a great idea, as it proved to be. (As an aside, should you ever despair of the younger generation, a few days with a crew of Mass Maritime cadets will restore your hope for the future.) Before heading out to the starting line, however, Masquerade required some serious upgrading. At the top of the list was updating the electronics and nav station, which was a hodgepodge of outdated equipment that had been very good in its day, but that day was past. I could probably have made most of the old electronics work and used them, but I would be teaching offshore sailing and navigation aboard and wanted to familiarize
crews with the latest gear. Nor did I want to spend valuable family cruising time chasing down and fixing electronic problems.The current generation of electronics provides the navigator with amazing amounts of info. Occasional racing (or “racing your living room,” as my friend Brad Read, a world-class sailor, calls it) and lots of passagemaking will be part of Masquerade’s life for the next few years. I wanted the best possible system, one that wouldn’t quickly become obsolete. As a professional delivery skipper, I have had the opportunity to become familiar
with almost all the different sailing-instrument brands available, and had been most impressed with the hoops through which I could make the B&G instrument package jump. I find them very easy to read, and if not perfectly intuitive to use, the copiously illustrated manuals were concisely written by sailors who speak the same language as me, making various functions remarkably easy to decipher. I chose to go with the Zeus 3 plotter coupled with the H5000 processing unit and matching multifunction instruments. The plethora of available data is stunning and
useful, as is the detail in the charts available for the system. I especially like the time plots that allow the navigator to track trends in the wind direction and speed, depth, course over ground, and so on. I am not talking about just the racing navigator either; cruisers will find this package equally useful. For instance, a graphic display of the bottom beats numbers alone when running along a sandy shore, and tracking the wind trends comes in very handy on any sailboat on passage. Before I could start installing my shiny new gear, I had to remove all the old
This “before” image of the nav station aboard my Baltic 47, Masquerade, shows a hodgepodge of outdated equipment that had been good in its day, but that day was past.
ANDREW BURTON (3)
S YST EMS
electronics and their wires and, it seemed, the wires from each previous generation of electronics that had been removed, leaving snipped-off wires in place. My friends and racing crew, Dwight Escalera and Sam Howell, helped with this miserable but satisfying chore. We estimated that we removed enough old copper to circle the globe three times. We were careful to attach messenger cords to the old wires to make it easier to run the new instrument wiring. Installing the new system
55 march 2020
is not brain surgery, but it is complicated, and B&G specifies that the H5000 must be installed and set up by a professional. For his invaluable help and advice, I turned to my old friend Steve Gill of Custom Navigation in Westport, Connecticut. Steve has been helping me with boat electronics since the days when Loran-C was the latest thing. He is simply one of the best in the business. One of his first recommendations was to think hard about how I wanted my nav station laid out. I thought about my priorities while staring at the new, blank teak panels I’d had made to replace the old ones that were littered with holes from the vacated gear. I wanted the area to be as clean and simple as possible, but there were a few things that I couldn’t do without: A VHF radio was a given, and for offshore work, I wanted satellite communications, mostly for downloading weather information. Steve suggested the IridiumGo. A B&G multifunction display would come in handy alongside the chart plotter. At my wife’s insistence,
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I am not talking about just the racing navigator, either. Cruisers will find this B&G package of instruments equally useful.
Midway through the refit, things were a little chaotic (top). The “after” photo shows the 12-inch iPad and new instruments, which have become more compact over time (above).
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we had opted for the main, 12-inch Zeus 3 display at the helm—no more squinting to read the charts and radar on deck for me. Below, I wanted an equally good repeater. Here I was able to save a boat-buck or two. (The Zeus 3 broadcasts on Wi-Fi, which allows crewmembers to get information from the plotter straight to a smartphone or tablet anywhere on the boat.) I opted to buy a refurbished 12-inch iPad and merely attach it to the bulkhead with Velcro— an inexpensive and elegant solution to the problem. Using the B&G Link app, I can view and control data, time plots, charts and the radar as if I were actually using the Zeus 3 at the helm. Before cutting any new holes, I made a cardboard outline—or template—of all the instruments, and moved them around the new bulkhead panels, thinking about their ease of use and how much clearance was behind them. The IridiumGo was easy. It mounts on the panel, and only its wires go behind it. I would need to be able to flip up its antenna to turn it on, but I didn’t need to look at it otherwise. (The IridiumGo provides voice communication and enables you to download data such as GRIB files via an app on your cellphone, tablet or computer.) It would be mounted up high and out of the way. I wanted the iPad front and center at eye level, not just for scanning the charts on the Zeus 3 display, but also for reading all the boat’s equipment manuals—which I would download as PDFs and store in its memory—and for writing articles such as this one. Its power cord would disappear into a hidden outlet behind it. The B&G H5000’s multifunction graphic display, with its 5-inch screen, would fit nicely just to the right of the iPad. The Icom VHF radio was mounted unobtrusively on the right-hand panel at eye level, allowing me to easily read its screen on the rare occasions I would need to use it or operate its Digital
Selective Calling functions; the microphone was mounted next to it, high enough to keep the cord off the table. I mounted a pair of Blue Seas double 4-amp USB charging ports beneath the VHF to power the ubiquitous tablets and phones that crews find so necessary. (I also plan to install one of these double charging ports above a shelf in each cabin.) An engraved brass plaque displays the boat’s radio call sign, MMSI number, documentation number, and satellite phone number. Last, just around the corner from the instrument displays—next to the passageway to the forward cabins where it can be accessed without disturbing the navigator—I installed a Fusion MS205 stereo. I made
Before cutting any new holes, I made a cardboard template of all the instruments and moved them around to see the ideal setup. a thin aluminum frame and painted it black to mask the larger hole from the old stereo. The Fusion plugs into the NMEA 2000 backbone on the B&G H5000, so I can control the stereo through the plotter at the helm or via the iPad below—a silly luxury, I know, but I like it and find it surprisingly convenient. So far, the new navigation -station setup has proved easy and satisfying to use cruising, on passages, and during the latest Newport Bermuda Race, which we were winning in our cruising class until halfway through the race when the wind died. But, of course, that’s another story. Andrew Burton has logged more than 350,000 nautical miles as a delivery skipper. He shares some of his hard-earned knowledge through his company, Adventure Sailing (burtonsailing.com), during offshore passages aboard his Baltic 47, Masquerade.
P l e n t y o f o n b o a rd d e v i ces re q u i re a d i s co n nect switch , and the time to install one is b e f o re y o u’ re i n t h e m i d d l e o f a n e m e rg e n c y . B Y S T E V E D ’A N T O N I O
M ONT HLY MAI NTEN ANCE
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s I walked down the dock, I heard and then witnessed a commotion: roiling water, yelling, someone running toward the bow of their boat to fend off a slip mate. Clearly, something was amiss. As I started running to possibly help, I could see the vessel’s mast shuddering and
out. After about 10 minutes of peace, it came on again, starting the frenzied reaction all over, albeit with the vessel now safely secured with plenty of lines. Only after I went aboard and offered to remove the fuse for the owner was it finally silenced for good. While ABYC Standards require the use of a batterydisconnect switch for most
a service prospective, and simply impractical in the event of an emergency. Another time, while conducting an inspection aboard a vessel, I placed an especially heavy load (but one below the unit’s rating) on the inverter, using a microwave and tea kettle as the source. Almost immediately after doing so, the inverter began to emit dense, acrid smoke. Even after the loads were removed, the smoke continued to pour out of the inverter’s enclosure. Disconnecting the DC power was the only thing that stemmed the flow. Ideally, every high-current piece of kit should be equipped with readily accessible, clearly labeled disconnect switches (by “accessible” I mean no tools should be required to gain access, and they should not
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3 S W ITC H ED OF F
similar) malfunction: On another occasion, I watched someone drop a wireless remote control, upon which the thruster activated and would not shut off. In yet another incident, a client reported stepping on the foot switch of her windlass, and when she lifted her foot, it continued to run, reeling in the anchor toward the pulpit. She frantically pounded on the switch with her fist and eventually managed to get the gypsy to stop turning, the anchor swinging mere feet below its cradle. When the switch was removed for inspection, it was found to have been infiltrated by water, which caused corrosion, seizing the button in the down position when it was depressed. In the case of inverters, the need for a disconnect is
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STEVE D’ANTONIO (3)
While fuses (left) definitely serve a critical role when it comes to over-current protection and safety, they do not afford quick disconnect capability. Water leaking onto electrical components, like this windlass (middle), can be the source of malfunctions. Disconnect switches (right) should be easy to use, readily accessible and clearly labeled.
heard the halyards slapping as it collided with the adjacent boat. At first, I thought a newbie helmsman had gotten overzealous with his bow thruster; after all, at the helm, a wide-eyed, white-knuckled sailor was jamming the bow-thruster lever back and forth, with no effect. It remained wide open, thrusting the vessel’s bow in one direction. I quickly realized the thruster had a mind of its own; it was malfunctioning. Finally, it mercifully quit, but only because it had thermally timed
starting batteries, there’s no mention of disconnects for thrusters, inverters, windlasses and other high-current gear. In the case of the aforementioned malfunctioning thruster, the only way to disable it was to remove the fuse—no easy task under those conditions; it required a socket wrench, and doing so under a heavy load created a large arc. It’s clearly not something that can be accomplished quickly or easily, especially in a stressful situation. This wasn’t the only time I’ve witnessed a thruster (or
perhaps the greatest of all. Unless the supply of DC current to an inverter is completely disconnected, there is no way to be absolutely certain—regardless of the setting on the faceplate or remote controls—that the inverter cannot produce AC power, and is therefore rendered safe to work on it directly, or on the vessel’s AC electrical system as a whole. For the vast majority of installations, the only way to disconnect the DC power to an inverter is by removing a large, bolted in-place fuse. That’s inconvenient from
be under berths, requiring the removal of mattresses). It need not be a battery-type switch: A circuit breaker may be utilized, provided it is for the secondary, high current—not simply the control side of the circuit. In addition to engines and gensets, windlasses, deck winches, inverters, furlers and thrusters should utilize a disconnect switch. Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting (stevedmarineconsulting.com).
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MARCH 2020
B O A T S & G E A R N E W T E C H N O L O GY, R E V I E W S a n d PRODUCTS for the CRUISING SAILOR
BY MARK PILLSBURY
COURTESY BENETEAU/GILES MARTIN-RAGET
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freshening breeze, building from near calm to the midteens, brought perfect conditions for a morning sail on the new Beneteau First Yacht 53. With sails up, our speed over the ground effortlessly matched that of the light breeze, and when things got puffy out on Chesapeake Bay a bit later, well, we went soaring. Standing atop an angled fold-up helmsmen perch at the starboard wheel, with the lee rail close to buried and the windward rudder completely out of the water, I had the otherworldly feeling of flying across the water, and it was absolutely a thrill. Think high-end sports car winding through the gears on a twisting mountain road, and, well, you get the idea: Power on and knuckles white, but it was a ride you’d not want to miss. Beneteau introduced the First range in 1977, with racing sailors in mind. Most recently, the French builder refreshed the line with several smaller, sporty models it acquired when it bought Seascape Yachts. The 53, though, is a whole new concept entirely. Luxury performance is how it’s put in the marketing material, and, in all honesty, that’s a pretty apt description. Walking the docks at the US Sailboat Show in Annapolis, Maryland, this past fall, the First 53’s plumb bow, slight reverse sheer, dark
metallic hull, and broad deck and coach roof all covered in teak made it instantly stand out from the sea of white production cruisers. Even tied up, the boat looked ready to rip. The First’s performance potential comes thanks to Biscontini Yacht Design and Roberto Biscontini, who earned his drawing creds over the course of two decades of America’s Cup campaigns. And the luxury? Well, Beneteau turned to Lorenzo Argento for deck and interior styling. Argento has been involved with a number of high-end projects, including Wally Yachts. Together, the pair created a vessel that’s easy to look at and riveting to sail. A quick peak at the 53’s performance ratios, as well as a few other numbers, begins to tell the story. Its displacement-length ratio is a very sporty 118 (a fast-cruising X-Yacht clocks in at 161), while its sail area-displacement is a whopping 27.1—right on par with an all-out racer such as the Jeanneau Sunfast 3300’s SA/D of 27.6. And that’s for the standard First 53, which comes with an 8-foot-2-inch cast-iron T-keel and 85-foot aluminum mast. You can up the muscle power further by ordering the boat with a carbon-fiber rig that’s a full meter taller, and a 9-foot-10-inch performance T-keel with a lead bulb down deep, where it counts. Owners can choose sails of their liking, but
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The B E N E T E A U F I R S T Y A C H T 5 3 is designed and built to get you there in a hurry—and you’ll be stylin’ all the way.
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Designers replaced the saloon’s traditional large dining area with space to entertain around a couch and low table.
Beneteau offers the 53 with a set from North Sails that includes North Panel Laminate main, 105 percent genoa and a code zero, so right out of the box, the boat’s regatta-ready. On deck, the layout is at once simple, elegant and purposeful. All lines, including the double-ended mainsheet, run under panels back to twin helms, where controls for the electric below-deck jib furler, fold-down bow thruster, swim platform, house- and navigation-lighting systems, and matching sets of engine controls are mounted on pedestals, along with B&G plotters and instrument displays. Just forward of each wheel, a pair of Harken Performa electric winches sit adjacent to banks of line clutches. The open transom is enclosed by lifelines, with a sturdy handhold on the centerline and solid stanchions and rails that curve around each quarter. With the boat heeling, these provide places for the crew to brace themselves if standing, or act as handholds when navigating the boat’s 16-plus-foot beam—a formidable amount of open space between steering stations. Forward of the wheels, long cockpit seats await the crew. Each has its own teak table that does double duty as a sturdy place to grab if
moving about. Beneteau has introduced a neat feature on this boat: The cockpit coamings drop to pass under the winches and past the wheels, giving crewmembers a place to sit when trimming, and the skipper a seat while steering. They don’t run all the way to the transom, though, which allows crew to pass behind either wheel and take an easy step up onto the deck when going forward. It was a detail I liked quite a bit, along with the 25-inch lifelines set atop 3-inch bulwarks all around. Underway, I found that I had just about everything to maneuver the boat at my fingertips. As I said at the outset, conditions were light at first. In just under 5 knots of wind, we cranked along closehauled at nearly 6 knots. Later, with the breeze up to 15 or a little higher, the speedo hovered in the 8-to-9-knot range, and I saw 10 and a little more when we cracked off to a reach and unrolled the code zero. My Beneteau-dealer shipmates suggested reefing the main at 13 to 14 knots. We didn’t, of course, and though we were overpowered a bit, judging by the angle of heel, the boat seemed to like it just fine, and so did we. And when it came time to tack, feathering up even a little quickly tamed things. There
is no traveler available for the 53. Instead, the mainsheet runs through a centerline block mounted just forward of the wheels, the theory being that anyone paying in the $1.2 million ballpark for this size boat likely will spend more time cruising than racing. Down below, Argento and Team Beneteau came up a refreshingly new approach to accommodations. White lacquered bulkheads and panels, coupled with a teak sole and molded wood furniture, kept the interior quite bright. In place of the traditional large dining area found in most boats these days, a well-equipped galley, complete with a home-size fridge, and a small dinette (expandable to seat six or so) took up the port side of the saloon. Opposite was a large L-shaped couch and small table for entertaining. Fiddles on counters and handholds were plentiful. And throughout the boat, lights and other electrical equipment were controlled by Beneteau’s proprietary Ship Control electrical system, which can be accessed using a smartphone. The owner’s cabin was forward, and featured a split head and shower. Two more cabins were aft, with a shared head to starboard at the foot of the companionway. A three-cabin, three-head layout is also available, but it would cost you space in the galley. The First 53’s hull and deck are cored and infused, with solid glass wherever hardware is mounted. An inner hull liner takes up loads from the mast, chainplates and engine. An 80 hp Yanmar diesel and saildrive come standard; the boat we tested was powered by the optional 110 Yanmar with shaft drive. Beneteau offers several other electronics and equipment packages as well. If a boat is to be judged by how well it meets its design brief, the First Yacht 53 is already a winner. And did I mention? The sailing was out of this world. Mark Pillsbury is CW’s editor.
S P E C I F I C AT I O N S BENETEAU FIRST YACHT 53 LEN GTH OVERALL 56'4" (17.17 m) WATERLIN E LEN GTH 50'6" (15.39 m) BE A M 16'5" (5 m) DR AFT (STANDARD/PERFORMANCE) 8'2"/9'10" (2.49/3.00 m) SA I L ARE A (100%) 1,785 sq. ft. (165.8 sq. m) BA LLAST 9,920 lb. (4,500 kg) DI SPL ACEM ENT 34,171 lb. (15,500 kg) BALLAST /D ISPLACEMENT 0.29 DISPLAC EMENT/LENGTH 118 SAIL AREA/DISPL A CE M ENT 27.1 WATER 190 gal. (720 L) FUEL 106 gal. (400 L) HOLDING 21 gal., 13 gal. (79 L, 49 L) MAST HEIGHT 85'0" (25.91 m) EN GINE 110 hp Yanmar (80 hp Yanmar standard) DE SIGNER Biscontini Yacht Design, interior and deck by Lorenzo Argento PR ICE $1,155,800 Beneteau 410-990-0270 beneteau.com
SEA TRIAL WIND SPEED 5-15 knots SEA STATE Calm to light chop SAILING Closehauled 5.8-9 knots Reaching 9.6 knots MOTORING Cruise (2,500 rpm) 8.3 knots Fast (3,400 rpm) 9.1 knots
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JON WHITTLE
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Chock-full of delightful details in a no-nonsense platform aimed for the bluest of blue water, the A M E L 5 0 is the latest offering from the renowned, longtime French builder. BY HERB McCORMICK
T
he hardest part of writing a review of a boat like the Amel 50 is beginning it. Where to start? Do you launch into the legacy of Frenchman Henri Amel, the ex-war hero who launched his legendary, eponymous La Rochelle boatyard in 1964? Should you focus on the yard’s celebrated attention to detail, and the fact that every Amel always comes fully equipped for bluewater voyaging, right down to the plates and cutlery? Or is it best to first address the specifics of this rangy new 50-footer, and the fact that it’s a true departure for Amel, the company’s first sloop—after a long string of ketch-rigged thoroughbreds— in over two decades? Seriously, what’s the hook to get this party started? It’s probably best to just state the obvious: The Amel 50
is très cool, and oh-so remarkable in oh-so many ways. In the 2020 Boat of the Year competition, the Amel was runner-up to the X-Yachts X46 in the Full-Size Cruiser 45 to 55 Feet class. It was the most heavily contested division in the competition, one that the judging panel agonized over during extensive deliberations. The fact that the sea trials for both boats took place in vastly different conditions—the X-Yacht had an ideal, 12-to-14knot breeze, while the Amel was tested in a zephyr—may have affected the outcome. But the panelists had high praise for the 50-footer. Here are a few of their observations. Dan Spurr: “Amel has long been one of the only worldwide companies to offer what is essentially a ‘ready-to-cruise’ boat. Some of the details include secured
floorboards, four watertight bulkheads, bulkheads tabbed to the hull and deck, and aft-deck stowage for the dinghy. We all also liked the 24-volt electrical system and the solid, tubular handrail rather than wire lifelines. The boat can be operated from the security of the cockpit, which has a windshield and hardtop, as with many solo offshore ocean racers. Admittedly, one of my colleagues didn’t like this feature, feeling it isolated the helm from feeling the weather and conditions. The boat is not inexpensive, but it also seemed to have one of the highest-quality finishes of anything we judged.” Ed Sherman: “The Amel 50 is truly an oceangoing globe-trotter. With a signature, watertight forward crash bulkhead; a centrally located ‘sea chest’ (and manifold system)
with a single through-hull (for seawater intake for the engine, Onan generator, air-conditioner and desalinization system) to easily isolate a leak and shut it down; and a global shore-power system that can deal with 50 or 60 hertz and 120 or 230 to 240 volts, Amel has designed a boat that will cover you wherever you travel. As with some of the other larger boats, the DC side of the electrical system is 24 volts. By doing this, the builder can save considerable weight just in the wiring, and create a more efficient low-voltage electrical system.” Ralph Naranjo: “I felt the fit and finish was at a higher level than I’ve seen on earlier Amels. Her hull was vacuum-infused, with solid glass below the waterline and foam core above it (and in the deck). Attention to detail in areas that could be seen belowdecks revealed good structural engineering and careful finish work. The design decision with the keel to go with iron rather than lead ballast affects both seaworthiness and long-term maintenance; lead could’ve improved the righting moment and enhanced her
JON WHITTLE (4)
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B O AT S & G E A R
S P E C I F I C AT I O N S AMEL 50 LENGTH OVERALL 50'10" (15.51 m) WATERLINE LENGTH 47'7" (14.50 m) BEAM 15'8" (4.79 m) DRAFT 7'0" (2.15 m) SAIL AREA (100%) 1,360 sq. ft. (126 sq. m) BALLAST 11,800 lb. (5,352 kg) DISPLACEMENT 49,000 lb. (22,226 kg)
DISPLACEMENT/LENGTH 170 SAIL AREA/DISPLACEMENT 18.3 WATER 160 gal. (600 L) FUEL 170 gal. (650 L) HOLDING 42 gal. (160 L)
Clockwise from top: The main saloon is bathed in natural light. The straightline galley is well-executed. The boat can basically be operated from its armchair.
under the settees (as well as a freezer) in the very open, comfortable saloon (bathed in natural light with hull windows, coachroof ports and overhead hatches). To port of the companionway, there’s a tidy navigation station with a long, ridiculously comfortable settee. To starboard, down two steps, is the excellent straight-line galley that also provides the passageway to the owner’s stateroom aft. The huge berth there lifts up for yet more stowage beneath it, and also reveals the inspection port for the rudder (one of the many unusual details that are practically everywhere). There is, of course, a well-executed head and shower, not to mention the washer/ dryer. Forward, the guest stateroom is equally comfortable;
there’s also another cabin with bunkbeds ahead of the saloon, with lee cloths that will make sweet sea berths. Topside, there’s a big sail locker forward and a single bow roller on a stainless-steel sprit, from which a code zero or asymmetric cruising chute can be set. Aft, the generous drop-down swim platform unfolds from the transom; yet another nifty feature is the passerelle that is stashed in the lazarette. Our aforementioned test sail was conducted in 5 to 6 knots of light Chesapeake Bay wind, but the boat still acquitted herself well, skimming along at better than 3 knots. It would be a lot of fun to put her through the paces in a blow. Concluding an Amel 50 review is much easier than launching one. The summation is simple. It’s a superb yacht, one that will take its lucky crews wherever in the watery world they wish to go. Herb McCormick is CW’s executive editor.
MAST HEIGHT 73'10" (22.5 m) ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Volvo 110 hp DESIGNER Berret-Racoupeau PRICE $1,100,000 Les Chantiers Amel 914-381-5900 amel.fr
SEA TRIAL WIND SPEED 5 to 6 knots SEA STATE Calm SAILING Closehauled 3.5 knots Reaching 3.3 knots MOTORING Cruise (3,100 rpm) 8.3 knots Fast (3,800 rpm) 10.2 knots
For a complete guide to Cruising World’s extensive online boat reviews and to request reprints from our older print archives of reviews, go to cruisingworld.com/ sailboats/sailboat-reviews.
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BALLAST/DISPLACEMENT 0.24
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upwind sailing ability. This is a well-built vessel that, to me, is more of a motorsailer than a traditional cruising sailboat; it will spend much time under power. As such, good attention has been given to the engine room and related equipment such as the drivetrain and generator.” There’s your overview. Now let’s focus in on some of those details, with the caveat that you’d require a book, not a mere magazine article, to delve deeply into all of them. In both profile appearance and the design’s overall execution, the major, overriding feature of the Amel 50 is the prominent deckhouse with its enclosed steering station, the actual seat for which is a comfy armchair. From this cozy perch, to port, and with the wide array of instruments, joysticks and related controls an arm’s length away, you can basically operate the entire boat. For instance, you can bump the throttle and/ or the retractable bow thruster with one hand. The electric winch for the in-mast furling main and twin Profurl headsail furlers are right there, as is the Lewmar windlass control, autopilot buttons, B&G chart plotter and so on. The deckhouse is doubly important in that, by raising the hefty floor panel to which the cockpit table is fastened, you have wonderful access to the deep engine/technical room, which houses not only the 5-cylinder, 110-horsepower Volvo engine (coupled with the three-blade Varifold prop, this is a significant power plant), but also the chargers, inverter, watermaker, etc. This is an ideal setup for maintenance and inspection, and twice as nice in that you don’t have to lift the companionway stairs or rearrange staterooms to get at everything. Big props. Down below, I’m not at all exaggerating when saying I’ve never seen a more efficient use of space on any cruising boat. Storage lockers are simply everywhere; there are a half-dozen alone under the floorboards, and many more
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CHARTERING N EW S a n d N OT E S o n S A I L I N G -VACAT I O N O P P O RT U N I T I E S
Luxury crewed charters by Andromeda in St. Maarten offer diving, yoga and personal training.
COURTESY ANDROMEDA YACHTS
ANDROMEDA CREWED CHARTERS Marking its 30th anniversary as a dealer of Lagoon and Hanse boat brands, among others, Andromeda Yachts has opened a base on the island of St. Maarten, offering luxury crewed diving charters in Caribbean destinations including the British Virgin Islands. Andromeda offers a fleet of sailing catamarans for charter, including a Sunreef 62, Fountaine Pajot Eleuthera 60 and Lagoon 620; a 92-foot monohull is also available. Aboard the Sunreef 62, eight guests are accommodated in four air-conditioned cabins with en suite heads. Amenities in airy common areas include smart TV and Bose home-theater systems, relaxation areas in the forward cockpit and in the flybridge, and double swim platforms. Scuba diving and snorkeling equipment include six dive cylinders and an air compressor; the captain is a PADI-certified dive instructor. Rounding out
the water amenities is a 15-foot dinghy with a 70 hp outboard for water skiing, wakeboarding and other activities. Andromeda’s fleet offers all-inclusive five-star service by a captain and chef. French and Italian gourmet cuisine; on-demand vegan, gluten-free and special menus; custom wine lists; personal trainer and yoga trainer; and concierge services for guests are also available. First-time clients are offered a 5 percent rate discount. Contact Andromeda for details (andromedayachts.com).
CRUISE THE EXUMAS WITH SUNSAIL Sunsail offers itineraries for sailing the Exumas with the opening of a new base at Palm Cay Marina in Nassau, Bahamas. This gives bareboat sailors access to a pristine destination stretching 100 miles north to south through the heart of the Bahamas. The archipelago features anchorages along untouched beaches, year-round
Eager to charter but don’t want to go it alone? MarineMax Vacations offers first-timer flotillas in the BVI in 2020. The company, which in 2019 was named a Certificate of Excellence winner by TripAdvisor, is offering the flotilla so vacation sailors can explore the BVI in a group. An itinerary stressing maximum fun, relaxation and adventure is led by the experienced MarineMax Vacations team and a local guide. Guests will cruise aboard power catamarans. The inaugural firsttimer flotilla was set to run from February 29 to March 6, 2020; the second is from May 2-8, 2020. Experienced mariners are also welcome. For details, visit MarineMax Vacations (marinemaxvacations.com).
MOORINGS ADDS A POWER CAT The Moorings has added a new luxury power cat to its fleet. The Moorings 534PC, built by Robertson & Caine, features a watermaker, solar panels, blue underwater lights, electric grill, dinghy lift platform and expansive lounging pads. It accommodates up to nine guests in four air-conditioned en suite cabins. The cat is ready for charter in the BVI in May 2020, and in the Exumas, Bahamas, in fall 2020. For details, contact the Moorings (moorings.com). — Elaine Lembo
CHARTER C O M PA N I E S Catamaran Company 800-262-0308 p. 66-67 Conch Charters 877-521-8939 p. 76 CYOA Yacht Charters 800-944-2962 p. 70 Dream Yacht Charter 866-469-0912 p. 68-69 Horizon Yacht Charters 284-494-8787 p. 76 Kiriacoulis 800-714-3411 p. 79 Le Boat 343-881-8811 p. 73 The Moorings 800-669-6529 p. 17 Navigare Yachting 800-807-1562 p. 29 North Sardinia Sail +39-0587-59124 p. 75 Sail Caribe 866-866-4874 p. 75 San Juan Sailing 800-677-7245 p. 79 Southwest Florida Yachts 800-262-7939 p. 79 Sunsail 800-437-7880 p. 25 Tortola Marine Management Ltd. 800-633-0155 p. 71 Voyage 888-869-2436 p. 78 Waypoints 443-225-4355 p. 72 BROKERS Ed Hamilton & Co. 800-621-7855
p. 77
SAILING SCHOOLS American Sailing Association 310-822-7171 p. 74, 77 Blue Water Sailing School 800-255-1840 p. 78 Offshore Sailing School 888-454-7015 p. 61
This directory is a list of companies advertising in this section; it is not an endorsement by the editors. Classified advertisers not listed.
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sailing conditions, and one of the largest protected marine parks in the world: Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. Choose among the newest four-cabin additions to the Sunsail fleet: the Sunsail Lagoon 424 and Sunsail Leopard 454W. For availability, visit Sunsail’s website (sunsail.com).
The most highly evolved sea life is found in the Caribbean. To be exact, it’s found in the British Virgin Islands. The Catamaran Company has evolved the most sophisticated fleet of luxury Lagoon catamarans available for bare and crewed charter in the Caribbean. Every yacht has been built, specified and equipped for maximum cruising comfort and pleasure. They are maintained and supported by the industry’s most highly qualified technicians and customer service personnel. Twenty eight years ago The Catamaran Company was the first catamaran-only Charter and Sales Company. Today it is the largest. and most experienced. Why in the world would you charter or purchase a catamaran from any company that hasn’t evolved to this high peak of perfection.
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southcoastsailing.com • southcoast@southcoastsailing.com 281-334-4606 • 502 Texas Avenue, Kemah, TX 77565
Learn to Sail with Confidence ASA 101-107 & 114 Bareboat Charters Brokerage & Sales Catamaran Specialists Charleston City Marina | 17 Lockwood Dr. | Charleston, SC 29412
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UPCOMING
SAFETY-AT-SEA COURSES US SAILING SANCTIONED INTERNATIONAL OFFSHORE SAFETY AT SEA HANDS-ON TRAINING ONLY February 16
May 2
Mission Bay Aquatic Center San Diego, CA • Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
Chicago Yacht Club Chicago, IL • Contact: Sydney Symons • Ph: (312) 617-2279
March 1
May 7, 2020
The Sailing Foundation Bainbridge Island, WA • Contact: Margaret Pommert • Ph: (425) 869-2727
San Francisco Yacht Club Belvedere, CA • Contact: Ashley Perrin • Ph: (415) 244-3129
March 8-14-15
May 9
Jackson Park Yacht Club Chicago, IL • Contact: David Ward • Ph: (773) 531-8037
Cruising Club of America Bristol, RI • Contact: Mark Lenci • Ph: (617) 515-8050
March 14, 2020
May 16
Cruising Club of America Bristol, RI • Contact: Mark Lenci • Ph: (617) 515-8050
Encinal Yacht Club Alameda, CA • Contact: Laura Munoz • Ph: (415) 771-9500
March 15, 2020
May 16, 2020
Cruising Club of America Bristol, RI • Contact: Mark Lenci • Ph: (617) 515-8050
SUNY Bronx, NY • Contact: Whitney Kneisley • Ph: (914) 834-8857
March 21-22, 2020
May 17
Pensacola Yacht Club Pensacola, FL • Contact: Talbot Wilson • Ph: (850) 217-7138 This course will run over 2-days. You must attend both days.
Encinal Yacht Club Alameda, CA • Contact: Laura Munoz • Ph: (415) 771-9500
March 28
June 14, 2020
Chicago Corinthian Yacht Club Chicago, IL • Contact: Chuck Fogel • Ph: (773) 941-9320
Southwestern Yacht Club Oceanside, CA • Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
March 29
June 15
Chicago Corinthian Yacht Club Chicago, IL • Contact: Chuck Fogel • Ph: (773) 941-9320
Cruising Club of America Bristol, RI • Contact: Mark Lenci • Ph: (617) 515-8050
US SAILING SANCTIONED INTERNATIONAL OFFSHORE SAFETY AT SEA WITH HANDS-ON TRAINING February 15-16
May 8-9, 2020
Mission Bay Aquatic Center San Diego, CA • Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
San Francisco Yacht Club Belvedere, CA • Contact: Ashley Perrin • Ph: (415) 244-3129
February 29-March1
May 10-11, 2020
The Sailing Foundation Bainbridge Island, WA • Contact: Margaret Pommert • Ph: (425) 869-2727
San Francisco Yacht Club
March 28-29, 2020
Belvedere, CA • Contact: Ashley Perrin • Ph: (415) 244-3129
U.S. Naval Academy Annapolis, MD • Contact: Susan Zellers • Ph: (410) 269-0741
June 6-7, 2020
April 4-5
Oakcliff Sailing
Racine Yacht Club Racine, WI • Contact: Amy Cermak • Ph: (262) 496-7731
Oyster Bay, NY • Contact: Ethan Johnson • Ph: (516) 802-0368
June 13-14, 2020
April 18-19
Southwestern Yacht Club
3DFLƓ F 6LQJOHKDQGHG 6DLOLQJ $VVRFLDWLRQ Redondo Beach, CA • Contact: Margie Woods • Ph: (310) 614-1445
Oceanside, CA • Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
US SAILING SANCTIONED OFFSHORE SAFETY AT SEA COURSE February 15
March 7, 2020
Mission Bay Aquatic Center San Diego, CA • Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
Columbia Yacht Club Chicago, IL • Contact: Kurt Thomsen • Ph: (312) 465-3514
February 22
May 16, 2020
Encinal Yacht Club Alameda, CA • Contact: Laura Munoz • Ph: (415) 771-9500
SUNY Bronx, NY • Contact: Whitney Kneisley • Ph: (914) 834-8857
February 29, 2020
June 13, 2020
Mariners’ Museum and Park Newport News, VA • Contact: Julie Murphy • Ph: (757) 952-0466
Southwestern Yacht Club Oceanside, CA • Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
US SAILING SANCTIONED INTERNATIONAL OFFSHORE SAFETY AT SEA REFRESHER COURSE February 16
March 1
June 14, 2020
Mission Bay Aquatic Center San Diego, CA Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
The Sailing Foundation Bainbridge Island, WA Contact: Margaret Pommert • Ph: (425) 869-2727
Southwestern Yacht Club Oceanside, CA Contact: John Miller • Ph: (760) 650-6901
For information on organizing your own seminar contact US Sailing: SASCOURSES.USSAILING.org Phone: 401-342-7900 • E-mail: safetyatsea@ussailing.org
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WHERE YOU’LL FIND the BEST USED BOATS on the MARKET
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A M AGAN SE T T
2009 SABRE 426 Amagansett has lived a very pampered life. Initially based on the East Coast, this 2009 Sabre 426 was gently used and spent her winters in a heated indoor facility. Upon arrival in the Pacific Northwest in 2016, Amagansett was lavishly upgraded with new North Sails, Brookes and Gatehouse instruments, new canvas and a bow thruster. Jim Taylor’s wing-keel design has modest draft and ample power in the three spreader rig to sail well even in light wind conditions. The interior is designed for two couple comfort, with an emphasis on an open and airy feel and straightforward usability. Above and below decks, Amagansett is beautifully finished with an emphasis on quality throughout. P L E A S E S E E O U R A D O N PA G E 8 9
Swiftsure Yachts | Seattle | 206-378-1110 | www.swiftsureyachts.com
HYLAS 70', 2010 Nice example of this proven Frers design, boasting desirable four-cabin/four-head layout and great equipment, including carbon in-boom furler, hydraulic sail handling systems, bow thruster, air/gen and much more.
LITTLE HARBOR 60’ Majestic keel centerboard sloop. Only two owners, always maintained in top condition. Hydraulic roller furling sails, electric winches. Easily handled, striking lines. Located in MA.
HOOD/LITTLE HARBORS
HYLAS 56’, 2012 Rare offering of this proven Frers design features spacious interior, shoal keel and every conceivable option for safe, comfortable cruising.
HERRESHOFF BOUNTY 58’, 2004 Near-exact replica of the original 1934 Herreshoff BOUNTY. Maintained to perfection. An absolutely stunning classic design.
SHOAL DRAFT MASTERPIECES Little Harbor 75 ................................RI Little Harbor 60 ..............................MA (3) Little Harbor 54s .............GA, RI, VA (3) Little Harbor 53s ............ RI, VT, MD Little Harbor 44 .............................. ME ALDEN 54’ MID COCKPIT Exceptional Alden design pedigree and build quality. Spacious owner’s cabin aft with king berth. Newer engine, teak decks, carbon rig and much more!
BRUCKMANN 50 MKII, 2008 Unique pilothouse design with unobstructed views. Trawler-like performance under power, yet sails well upwind. Beautifully detailed Herreshoff-style joinery. Looks new, inside and out.
Little Harbor 42 ................................RI
All available in beautiful condition.
GULFSTAR 50’ CENTER COCKPIT Well-appointed and well-looked-after example of this classic three-cabin cruiser. A/C, upgraded Yanmar and Northern Lights generator.
LITTLE HARBOR 54’ Extremely well-maintained Ted Hood design with soughtafter centerline queen berths fwd. and aft. Extensive refit, 2012. Many back-up features. Commissioned and ready to go!
BRISTOL 49.9’ Exceptional: Centerboard shoal draft, ICW-friendly mast, very well equipped, with electric in-mast furling.
Rhode Island (401) 683-6070 | Info@WellingtonYachts.com | Florida (954) 527-4230 TED HOOD 2 CHRIS FAIRFAX 2 BILL HAYNIE 2 CHET HARTSHORN MURRAY LORD 2 BOB MARSTON 2 JOHN PERKINS 2 JIM WETHERALD
SEE MORE AT WELLINGTONYACHTS.COM
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2002 PASSPORT 470 CENTER COCKPIT KETCH A very special Passport 470 Center Cockpit custom designed and built for her current owners with a three stateroom, two full head floorplan, and a staysail ketch rig. She has a very versatile sail plan. Ready to cruise. Asking $475,000.
2006 PASSPORT 515 CC Two staterooms with additional work room/cabin. Well equipped with solent rig. Just listed at $595,000.
2008 PASSPORT 470 CC Fully equipped for cruising. Excellent condition with unique double walk thru, 3 stateroom layout and shoal draft. Asking $524,500
2009 PASSPORT 470 CC Fully equipped with double walk-thru, two stateroom, two head layout. Ready for your offshore adventure. Asking $515,000
2012 PASSPORT VISTA 545 CC The best equipped and maintained Passport 545 on the market! Asking $995,000
1989 PASSPORT 41 AC Dark blue hull with unique two stateroom two enclosed head arrangement. Well equipped. Asking $139,000
CLASSIC PASSPORT 40 AC Beautiful example of the legendary Robert Perry cruising yacht. Several to choose from.
2015 PASSPORT VISTA 545 AC Cruising World’s 2015 Boat of the Year. Breathtaking better than new, turnkey yacht. Asking $985,000
1999 CATALINA 470 Has many new upgrades. Ready to cruise and reduced to $175,000
GOZZARD 36 AC Well cared for and well equipped these classic yachts are perfect for the cruising couple. Several available. Asking $129,900.
2006 PASSPORT 515 VISTA CC Impeccably well maintained, 2-staterooms, ICW friendly, 125hp engine (2014), new sails 2016/17, nav. electronic (2016), Asking $635K.
1984 HALLBERG-RASSY Sailed in freshwater since 2014, stored in heated building offseason, NO TEAK DECK, with a hardtop. Lots of upgrades and new equipment. Asking $147,000
GOZZARD 41AC Stunning cutter rigged cruising yachts with unique Gozzard interiors. Two to choose from starting at $329,000.
For more information on these and other previously owned yachts, please contact us: ANNAPOLIS: Yacht Haven, 326 First Street, Ste. 404, Annapolis, MD 21403
410-263-0008 www.passportyachts.com
The Moorings Yacht Brokerage has the world’s largest selection of pre-owned charter yachts. 2013 LEOPARD 48
Knot on Call - 4 cabin/ 4 head Located in BVI Asking $449,000
2015 LEOPARD 44
2013 LEOPARD 48
Kokomon - 4 cabin/ 5 head Located in Fort Lauderdale, FL Asking $479,000
2015 BENETEAU 45
Lonestar - 4 cabin/ 4 head
Pelican Pat - 3 cabin/ 3 heads
Located in St. Lucia Asking $390,000
Located in BVI Asking $189,000
2015 BENETEAU 41
2015 JEANNEAU 50
2015 LEOPARD 44
Moondance - 4 cabin/ 4 heads Located in BVI Asking $389,000
2014 LEOPARD 39
Harvest Moon - 4 cabin/ 2 head Located in Belize Asking $245,000
2015 JEANNEAU 409
STOCK IMAGE
Sea Nile - 3 cabin/ 2 head Located in BVI Asking $160,000
Blue Tide - 4 cabin/ 4 head Located in Antigua Asking $219,000
Cobane - 3 cabin/ 2 head Located in St. Lucia Asking $139,000
www.mooringsbrokerage.com | 800-850-4081 | info@mooringsbrokerage.com
info@seattleyachts.com
844.692.2487
www.SeattleYachts.com
Seattle Yachts is Now Your West Coast Hanse, Moody, & Dehler Yachts Dealer & Broker!
DEHLER 42 - Contact your local
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ϮϬϬϲ dĂLJĂŶĂ ϱ Ζ $549,000 Dan Peter 619.523.1745
ϮϬϭϭ dĂLJĂŶĂ ϰ Ζ $399,000 Dan Peter 619.523.1745
2005 Sweden Yachts 45' $420,000 :ĂĐŬ ^ƉƌŝŐŐƐ ϯϲϬ Ϯ Ϭϳϳϳ
HANSE 458 - Contact your local
SeattleYachts.com/WhyList
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purchase clean, well maintained boats.
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ĎŹĎą ĂƚĂůĹ?ŜĂ ĎŻĎ° žŏ// Ψϳϳ ĎŹĎŹĎŹĎŹ
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!Ϗϲ Ä‚Ä?ĹŹ ŽǀĞ ώϲ Ψϳ ϹϏϏ 14’ Picnic Cat 2020 24’ PS Dana 24 1988 25’ Harbor 25 2007 26 Nonsuch 1984 26’ Alerion 26 1996 27’ Island Packet 1987 27’ Pearson 27 1991 27’ Catalina 270LE 1994 30’ Nonsuch 30 ultra 1985 30’ Bavaria 2007 30’ Sabre 30 mkII 1986 30’ Catalina 30 1989 30’ Catalina 30 1985 30’ Catalina 30 1985 30’ O’Day 1984 30’ S2 30A 1987 31’ Island Packet 1986 31’ Pearson 31 1979 31’ Pearson 31 1988 32’ Beneteau 321 1996 ĎŻĎŽ EÄ‚ĆľĆ&#x;Ä?Ä‚Ćš ĎŻĎŽ Ď Ď 33’ Waquiez Gldtr 1980 33’ Tartan 1983
15,900 56,900 41,000 23,500 60,000 35,000 ^ŽůĚ 19,500 49,900 49,500 29,900 15,000 8,495 15,900 11,900 15,000 29,900 19,900 16,999 42,000 84,999 ĎĎą ĎŹĎŹĎŹ 14,900
33’ Mason 33 33’ Mason 33 34’ Hunter 340 34’ Moody 346 34’ Pearson 34’ Catalina 34 mkII 34’ Catalina 34 35’ Catalina 350 35’ Catalina 350 35’ C&C 35 mkII , 35’ C&C 35 mkIII 35’ J Boats 35 36’ Catalina 36 36’ Catalina 36 mkII 36’ Catalina 37’ Island Packet 370 38’ Catalina 38 39’ Cal 39 40’ Catalina 400 40’ C&C 121 41’ Island Trader 43’ Shannon
1985 74,900 1986 57,000 2000 49,900 1988 59,900 1985 23,500 2005 77,000 1986 24,000 2003 79,900 2007 108,500 1975 11,900 1985 37,999 1986 24,500 1986 24,500 2001 67,900 1984 29,500 2005 189,000 1983 44,900 1981 27,900 2004 163,500 2001 139,900 1979 39,000 1986 149,900
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Hingham, MA 781-749-8600
Scituate, MA 339.236.2950
New London, CT 860.772.0800
quality yachts from swiftsureyachts.com Cruising World magazine
Flyer called the Outbound 46 “An 2007 Outbound 46 elegant blend of sensibility $425,000
Swiftsure Yachts also has 2006 and 2009 Outbound 46 models for sale on the West Coast.
and sophistication,” an apt description for a boat that has become a classic blue water cruising yacht over her 20 years in production (and counting). Designed by renowned naval architect Carl Schumacher and built to the highest standards of sailing yacht construction, Flyer will take you comfortably across any ocean. Her solid fiberglass construction offers the displacement required to give the yacht an easy and forgiving motion but her lines and parameters define her performance … long waterline, moderate beam, high righting moment, proper weight distribution and efficient foils. An elegant hand-crafted interior, semi-raised salon that fills the cabin with natural light, comfortable accommodations and superb load-carrying capability ensure comfort whether on an evening sail or 3,000mile passage. Flyer’s owners (avid windsurfers who sailed their previous Bristol Channel Cutter to New Zealand) are well rounded boat people who know very well what makes a smart blue water cruising yacht. There is no better way to describe their care than meticulous, from upgraded running rigging to a brand new Iversen dodger.
price reduced
67 64 53 50 50 48 47 46 46
Morris 45 • 2000 • inquire
Garcia Exploration 45 • 2015 • $595,000
Sabre 426 • 2009 • $298,000
Able Apogee 51 • 2000 • $449,000
Alerion Express 33 • 2010 • $209,000
Outremer 55 Light • 2002 • $399,000
Waterline 48 • 1997 • $355,000
Chris White Atlantic 48 • 2010 • $565,000
Nauticat 44 • 1983 • $154,000
Waterline Frers Simonis Baltic Lavranos C&C Custom Chris White Atlantic Outbound Outbound
1997 1978 2001 1999 1990 1973 2013 2009 2006
$495,000 $377,000 $495,000 $475,000 $169,900 $217,000 $695,000 inquire $399,000
44 40 38 36 34 34 33 25 25
Tanton Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 40 Grand Banks Eastbay HX Ralph Stanley Red Wing Hallberg-Rassy 342 J/100 Lyman Herreschoff
NEW SAILING YACHTS FOR WORLD CRUISING
1983 1999 2000 1967 2008 2008 2007 1964 2005
$129,000 $125,000 $209,000 $45,000 $89,000 $162,000 $64,500 $20,000 $55,000
SwiftsureYachts
™
info@swiftsureyachts.com | 206.378.1110 2500 Westlake Ave. N. Suite F, Seattle WA 98109 www.facebook.com/swiftsureyachts
The Leader in Sales for Pre-Owned Island Packet Yachts - Visit Us at UsedIslandPackets.com What Our Customers Are Saying ... “After a year of looking at boats on the internet, we were lucky enough to discover Whiteaker Yacht Sales during our search for an Island Packet. Ed Whiteaker proved to be extremely knowledgable while showing us multiple models. Our entire experience was met with honesty, warmth, and professionalism. It became obvious early on that Ed was more Eric and Mary Jewel Hutchinson concerned about our happiness Buyers of 1999 Island Packet 380 and finding the boat that fit us than in just making a quick sale. I personally have never had a purchasing experience this pleasant. I would never hesitate to recommend Ed to anyone. “
2007 Tayana 48’
2008 Outbound 46’
2001 Island Packet 420
Bradenton, FL $359,000
Tracys Landing, MD $349,000
Annapolis, MD $239,000
2008 Jeanneau 45’
2008 Island Packet 370
2004 Island Packet 370
Brunswick, GA $234,900
Palmetto, FL $209,500
Palmetto, FL $209,000
2006 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45’
2011 J Boats 108 35’
2004 Island Packet 370
1994 Island Packet 40
Sarasota, FL $199,000
Marco Island, FL $189,900
Punta Gorda, FL $179,500
Palmetto, FL $178,000
Savannah, GA $169,000
1996 Island Packet 40
2004 Island Packet 370
1999 Island Packet 380
1996 Hallberg-Rassy MKII 36’
2003 Island Packet 350
Palmetto, FL $169,000
Punta Gorda, FL $169,000
Cape Coral, FL $159,000
Palmetto, FL $144,900
Sarasota , FL $129,800
1988 Island Packet 38
1990 Catalina Morgan 44’
2000 Hunter 42’
1983 Vagabond Ketch 42’
1989 Island Packet 38
Palmetto, FL $129,000
Port Charlotte, FL $125,000
Port Charlotte, FL $124,000
St. Simons, GA $119,000
Port Charlotte, FL $115,000
1997 PDQ 32’
2005 Pacific Seacraft 31’
1996 Pacific Seacraft 34’
2004 Beneteau 39’
1989 Pacific Seacraft 37’
Bradenton, FL $114,500
Stuart, FL $109,000
Port Charlotte, FL $99,500
Indiantown, FL $99,000
Indiantown, FL $99,000
1998 Island Packet 320
2000 Hunter 37’
1990 Island Packet 32
1988 Bayfield 36’
1976 Allied Mistress 39’
Stuart, FL $97,500
Cape Coral, FL $82,000
Fort Pierce, FL $75,000
Indiantown, FL $59,000
Bradenton, FL $54,900
Southern Tampa Bay, FL
See All Our Many Fine Listings At www.WhiteakerYachtSales.com Local: 941.776.0616
1992 Island Packet 44
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Selected Brokerage: 100â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1989 Georgetti & Magrini Ketch ................... $949,000
44â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2016 X-Yachtsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Xp44 .............................. $625,000
86â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1989 Swan 86 ......................................... $1,350,000
44â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2012 X-Yachts Xp 44 .............................. $500,000
65â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2002 Hoek Classic ....................................... $850,000
44â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2001 Finngulf 44 ......................................... $149,000
59â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1984 Hinckley 59 ..............................................SOLD
40â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1998 J-120 (2 Available) .............................. $130,000
57â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1980 Swan 57 ............................................ $325,000
40â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1987 Tartan 40 ........................................... $118,000
55â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2018 X-Yachts Xp 55 ............................ $1,350,000
38â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2014 X-Yachtsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Xp 38 ............................. $260,000
47â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2013 Passport 470 ...................................... $595,000
31â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2012 J-Boats J-95 ....................................... $105,000
46â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2007 Finngulf 46 ......................................... $280,000
¶ 7R¿ QRX ³7DGRUQH´ .................................. $64,000
46â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2019 X-Yachtsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 4.6 ................................. $735,000
40â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1985 Jonmeri 40 ......................................... $115,000
45â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2019 X-Yachtsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Xc45............................... $775,000
40â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2009 Custom Yawl ....................................... $115,000
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* Estimated APR (Annual Percentage Rate) based on 5 year loan term; individual rate may vary based on loan amount, loan term, vehicle use, model year and type of boat. Subject to consumer loan program requirements and credit approval. Rates and terms may vary with market conditions and are subject to change without notice. Certain fees, closing costs, and restrictions may apply. APR applied to the loan is the APR in effect on the date the application is received and is valid for 30 days. APRs may vary with loan term. Boat must be 2000 model year or newer; for boat model year 2000 to 2009, add .25% to above rate. Maximum loan term based on loan amount. Maximum loan amount is calculated using an advance percentage determined by FICO score and multiplied by NADA guide base wholesale value with add-ons; if not listed in NADA guide, then multiplied by 80% of BUC low retail value. Other rates with different loan terms are available. Example of a refinance recreational use boat loan: A $65,399 loan (includes a $399 processing fee) for 5 years with a fixed interest rate of 4.147% would have an APR of 4.39% and 60 monthly payments of $1,208.77. This is only an example and the APR and processing fee may differ for your specific transaction. Loans with longer terms may have higher rates. Essex Credit is a division of Bank of the West. Member FDIC. Equal Housing Lender.
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
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Of f Wa t c h You never want to run aground in the dead of night on a lee shore. But we’d been drawn to Shishmaref. It wasn’t a boomtown. Quite the opposite. It was a town going boom.
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board the 64-foot cutter Ocean Watch, en route to the Northwest Passage, we’d put the Bering Strait astern and were just miles away from crossing the Arctic Circle. First, we had a mission of sorts, to retrieve a weather buoy for a scientist at the University of Washington’s Applied Physics Lab that had beached itself on a remote barrier island; the drift buoy was now high and dry, but its satellite responder was working fine. We knew precisely where it was. But just a few hours before we got there, we had an encounter that, a decade later, still makes my tummy flutter and my palms clammy. For that was the night we briefly ran aground off the tiny Alaskan village of Shishmaref, on its own flat barrier island flanking the Seward Peninsula. Earlier that very week, a BBC reporter described the place thusly: “It is thought to be the most extreme example of global warming on the planet.” This we had to see for ourselves. It proved to be an iffy decision—you never want to kiss a sandy spit in the dead of night on a lee shore—but thankfully, not a tragic one. However, we hadn’t been drawn to Shishmaref because it’s a boomtown. Quite the opposite. It was a town going boom. Shishmaref was in the news at the time for all the wrong reasons. Totally open to the north, it got sucker-punched by each successive winter storm. Warmer weather and water in the Arctic—not to mention melting permafrost—meant less protective ice, which translated to a shoreline exposed to wind and waves, which in turn eroded the tenuous beaches and cliffs. Everything along the foreshore was sliding into the sea, including the main road and a whole bunch of houses, which we could see on our approach. It was just after midnight, the sea and sky a uniform slate of gray, but still fairly
A few short hours after our drama off the coast of Alaska, I’d put it behind me and was on to new adventures.
light outside in the high latitudes. There was activity along the beachfront, and after transmitting an open-ended call on the VHF inquiring about local knowledge, one of the villagers arrived on a skiff offering to guide us in. However, with our 9-plus-foot draft, it wasn’t to be. Suddenly we ground to a halt. There were some agonizing moments—what a sad way it would’ve been to dash our dreams—but eventually we powered off and carried on. The disappearing village vanished astern. I was reminded of Shishmaref just before the new year after reading the results of the annual “Arctic report card,” a yearly assessment produced by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration that, according to The New York Times, “takes a broad look at the effects of climate change in the region and compares current findings with the
historical record.” “If I had gotten a report card like this as a kid, I would’ve been grounded,” noted one professor. “It’s not showing much improvement at all. Things are getting worse.” Where to begin? Rising temperatures. Thawing sea ice. Earlier-than-usual seasonal melts. Growing concerns over sea-level rises. Somehow, this very exact science has become politicized by many in the social media set, and elsewhere, but it’s quite real to the people living in the Arctic who have been dealing with the repercussions for decades now. Later fall freezes leave communities isolated; warmer waters mean you can’t travel over the ice; wildlife movements and patterns, the main source of sustenance through hunting and fishing for, like, eons, are disrupted. The distant tit-and-tat over the changing climate is kind of secondary when your stomach is growling. Young people raised in the Arctic are bailing in droves. Who could blame them? Oh, about that melting permafrost, which sure has changed the real estate market in Shishmaref? It releases the carbon dioxide it traps into the atmosphere, spinning the cycle ever more rapidly. It’s all interconnected—a circle, a loop—and it’s not slowing down. Back in Shishmaref, today, the 500 or so remaining residents are stuck between sticking it out or relocating to the mainland. It’s clear they’ll eventually need to leave, but tell that to a people with a history spanning, oh, 2,000 years or so. Talk about roots. I never did set foot on Shishmaref; hours later, I was off on fresh adventures. That nice guy in the skiff who tried to help us out that night? In my rearview mirror, mate—not my problem. He’ll figure it out. Right? Herb McCormick is CW’s executive editor.
HERB MCCORMICK
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