Charlotte Emerson
Research
Before choosing a brand to look into for this product, I reasearched a few options. I looked into Canon Cameras, Disney, and MTV. Apon choosing MTV as my brand, I thought about the range of possiblites I could expolore, such as mechandice, re-branding of the logo and different ways of advertising. I knew that choosing MTV would challenenge my thought process especially during the dye room and experimenting with colours and shapes. I choose MTV as it is a world wide Music Channel that is unlike any other. It is popular for its Music, Music videos, television programes and its well know logo.
Mindmaps are a great way of showing just how far I could take a range of ideas. I have done 2 mindmaps to show as much information as possible through words on paper. Doing these mindmaps helped me to expand the obvious ideas and create a wider and more interesting amount of thoughts. Also mindmaps help me as I am a visual person and writing things down can encourge me more to explore other possiblities. As MTV is known as a music channel I looked into when it began and where it originated from. I also looked at what kind of audience I would be producing for and what kind of items they would be interested in. In the past MTV have experimented with the logo a lot, I didnt want to just copy that so I decided to look into a more vibrant background, yet keeping the logo simple and monochrome.
Concept Boards
Big bight colours catching your eyes
For this concept board, I based my pictures and sourced research around Fireworks. I chose fireworks because I liked the colour palette and expression of shape and excitement. I also like the way that Fireworks is related to celebration. MTV’s brand is known for its pride in celebration in all kinds of areas. I like the contrast of the black against the colour. This makes it bold and stand out which is what I want to portay through my branding.
MTV’s bright colours, catch the audiences eyes and gives them something to remember.
For my second concept board I looked into the movement of dripping and splatting paint. I chose this colour palette as it is as bright as my other concept board, but there are different tones. I liked how how once I placed the MTV logo onto this image, it immediately brought the colours out as well as the black being bold and standing out. I also liked how on the logo includes negative space and the underneath layer comes through to show the burst of colour.
My third concept board has a bit more experimental techniques to it. I used a dark background with bright coloured spattered paints. I feel like this gave me a good base to work with. I added a line of MTV logos to the right side becuase the colours matched well and it also made the concept board clear. I used an image of a woman holding a swirling light and eddited it so that only the lines of the light are showing. I then drew triangles and minipulated them to create this affect of layers and lines. I really like this outcome although I dont like how messy and clutered it is.
Dye Room
For my dye room experiments, I used a range of materials and techniques to show many different way s of expressing fireworks and paint splatters. For my first experiment, I used batiq on paper and drew out MTV on the page. I then covered the page in water and used watercolour dye dusts in mainly blue. To keep with colour palette of one of my concept boards. This allowed the MTV in batiq to appear negative which stood out a lot. For my second print, I wanted to get a textural feel, so I layered red, white and blue tissue paper with a dark blue watercolour dye dust. This gave me a crackeled look which relates to fireworks as the blue looks like it is bursting out the print. For my third print, I controlled the way I applied the water onto the page so that when I put the dye dust on, it sat still and created a fine edge. I then splattered the green dust dye so it created a fuzzy edge and you could really see the contrast. For my fourth print this was merely for experimentation of how I applied the dyes with water in different ways to get different and effective techniques. I stuck to blues and greens for this as I found I was warming to that colour palette.
From my experimentation, the colour palette I wanted to continue with were the blues and the greens, as I found the tones from the paint concept board and wanted to apply it in the expressive way of the firework concept board. I used a different technique for each of these samples. For the first, I layered tissue papper and watercolour paints and blowing out the paint at the sides with a staw. The second was using a small amount of water amd blowing it with a staw with darker blue watercolours. Third was speading a lot of water on the page before spinkling from a height. I didnt like this sample as much as the rest, because the firework effect wasnt as strong as the others. My final print was the most successful of my eight. Using darker blue watercolours and a hint of green, I created a foregournd for my print. I then used the straw blowing effect to replicate the firework. I liked how this sat on top of the foreground and stood out. I also really liked how it fades out on the edges as it gives a finished look.
The previous two pages of dye room samples were on paper. These four scans are some of the samples I did on fabric. I experimentated with the watercolour power paints and a 3D medium that rasied certain parts of my fabic and made them 3D. The top left print was made with the intenstion of fading black into colour. I really feel like I have acheieved that however I don’t like the colour pallette I should have gone for more brighter colours. The top right was using the 3D paint. I used 2 tones of blue and made them look like rised dots. The outcome was more tones than two, I liked the shapes and the way a lot of the piece was raised. The bottom left was inspired by the shape of fireworks. I used normal grey paint and blue 3D paint so that it was clear and contrasted. For the bottom right sample I used gold paint on a dark blue fabric. The gold stood out so well and really caught the eye, however I didnt like this for my brand.
Edits
Here are a few edits from my prints in the dye room. I experimented with layers and minipulating the colours and shapes. For the edit at the top of the page I layeredd different parts of the same print and changed the colours I added a fade tool, this helped make the image to focus more on the tiny details instead of the overwheleming colours. The first edit to the right is one of my favourites, I like the white triangles becuase it seperates the print and adds an edge to it. The far right print in strips is something I was just experiementing with, I like the deep colours and varied tones. The bottom right print is seperated by 2 main layers, the bottom layer is a colour minipulated scan of my whole print. The top layer/layers are pin pointed sections of the original sample with a layer mask so that the top squares almost drip into the print beneith it.
Experimentation
Once I had edited my print in photoshop and was happy with the final outcome, I went to ‘select’ at the top of the tool bar and clicked on the tab ‘all’. This created a lined dotted edge around the intire sqaure getting ready to move the print.
I opened an image of a front and back Tshirt outline, clicked on the magic wand tool on the far left hand side and highlighted the center on the shirt. This then put another lined dotted edge around the inner shirt outline. With this highlighted I clicked the tool bar ‘edit’ and selected ‘paste special’ then ‘paste into’. This bought the image into the shirt, I moved the image around and changed the scale until I was happy.
One I had got my print I felt as If it needed aomething else, I decided to make the pattern feel like a centre piece instead of the only piece. For this I created a layer mask and selected the _________ tool and on the layer. I drew a shape around the sleeves and the colloar. I and coloured them in black using the paint tool. I really like this deign, and the black sleeves especial. However I feel it is to busy for my MTV brand.
For this design I choose one of my samples and edited it in photoshop to minipulate the colours. I duplicated squares and layered it on of the enlarged photoshopped print. I liked some of the harsh lines that appeared when I layered the images, but I didnt like some of them to I took some of the harsh lines away. I like this outcome a lot, so I also tried it with black sleeves and collar I liked this design even more.
I liked the simplicity of this design, and the way it looks like the paint is still dripping down the shirt gives a detailed and delicate touch to it. The different tones of blue really helps it to look layered which I love. I like the black sleeves on this Tshirt as it adds another dymention to the shirt as a whole. I feel the design doesnt have enough of the MTV brand involed.
Although the print and the way I edited was something I really liked, I found that it didn’t look right for a Tshirt design. I experimented with white sleeves and collar, because I thought the white triangles and sleeves would look good together. However the sleeves got lost in the patten and it never felt finished. The black sleeves and collar worked better yet it still lacked the finished look of a Tshirt.
I loved the way the print for this design fitted to the outline of the shirt. The faded back and colour pallette stood out for me and caught my eye. I tried this patten with the print by itself and the Back sleeves and I also tried it with white as I thought this would match well. In the end I prefered it with just the print without any black or white sleeves nor collars.
FINAL PRINTS
Here are my final prints based on the idea of a new merchandise for the brand. MTV are known for being very obvious and pround of their logo and I wanted to keep that clear in my prints.The reason I have chosen all these selected colours is because I wanted the customers to have a range of choice. I feel the colours carry personality which is why I think it fits well with the brand.
Prints on
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I decided to test the outcome of all my 6 designs on a t shirt template using photoshop to see what they would look like. I looked at front and back templates so I could really see the full final result. I am really happy with these 3 finals, and their backs. I think the colours work really well as a set too.
he Tshirts
The top design and the middle design go really well together as a set. And the print to the right is almost a limited edition kind of design which for this brand is perfect. I really like the backs of these designs they have this seperation in the middle which breaks up the print and makes your eyes focus onn the bright colours on the tshirt.
Header
I wanted to cut a certain amount for my boarder. So I first created a boarder on the top line and chose particular sections of the print to use. I changed the parts in all different ways to see what worked best. I liked the finished result best as the shapes on the right hand side, remind me of the letter M. Standing for MTV. I added the logo and a sentance stating that a new collection is coming soon.
This is a sample, I did in the dye room experimentation lessons. The first red and white image is created with wax and red paint. I scanned it in and changed the print in photoshop. First into greyscale then changed the levels so that the black was just as dark as the MTV logo and white just as white.
I am really happy with the final result. As it is what I planned on doing in the first place and the blacks and white do make the piece stand out. I think that if i went with colour it would destract from the logo which I wanted to remain the main focus point. The logo on the prints is in the middle and therefore I made the logo on the left so It didn’t look too replicated.
Lectra Pattern Design
Some of the software im using for this part of the project involes Modaris, Diamino, Kaledo. Modaris is the software for pattern cutting, technical drawings and working sketches. Diamino is the programme that shows the lay plan or Marker. We are using this software to learn how to arrange our pattern pieces. Kaledo is for drawing in 3D, to be able to see a final piece on a person in 3d and make any changes.
•Ensure that details such as grain line notches and internal lines and drill holes are marked on your pattern piece. •Ensure your pieces are flat and uncreased (press if necessary) •Mark the points on your pattern in pencil following the diagram above. •Always have an uneven number of curve points – the fewer points give better curves. •Every piece should have a minimum of 2 type 2 points. •Always digitise in a clock wise direction. •Always start with grain line ‘A’ (click on grain line from left to right).
Modaris
Basic functions. -No spaces in titles -Always set access paths first -To zoom in - Enter & Drag a box -8 - To see all pieces -Home - To see 1 piece only -Ctrl +Z - Undo -To copy - Sheet > copy > move something that will copy it.
Rotate 2 points = F2 > Rot 2 pt (only CF or hems) Go to be from Left to right - make the pattern staright on the axis. Straightner an edge = F1 > Ali 2 Pts The first sqaure you click on will stay still the second will show you how far out you are from it being a straight line. F8 > Length (make sure in display ‘Hide Measures’ is NOT ticked. Clicked - Length measures, > once on the line drag in towards the centre. > Click again. It will show you the length. Changing the length F3 > Pin ends > print > move . Select the middle of the line pull it way > click down arrow. Fill in the first box with the difference between the side seems. > Second box will be 0.00 down > down > enter > click on the pattern. It should of changed to the right same length. To shorten > pin ends > move > select line > put in measurements > select line again (It will change.) Curve points will show you all your points. Delete will take away pin points and ‘curve points’ will show exactly where all the pins are. Grain line= F4 > Axis (second one down) draw grain line . Seam allowance. -F4 > Line Seam > select the ones that are the same(right click) and (hold down shift) Till all are selcted. Select line pull up > Arrow down add 1.00 > arrow down > 1.00 > arrow down> right click on grey area. > Industridisation > exchange > left click in the box.
Mirror - F5 > Sym 2 Pts (makesure mirror piece is ticked) Hold shirt down draw along the line. PDF - Parameters > Plotter > tab key > PDF > sheet > sheet selected > click on all the models > right click out >file
Increasing seam lengths Deleting sleeve curve points
Mirroring pattern to create whole pattern piece
Variant When getting ready to print a pattern you have to have a Variant. - F8 > Variant > Name it > Create pce article > Left click all pieces (pieces should appear in there) press (.) and they will cover the screen > change the info to what I need >close the box >press (8 > should come up wiith a yellow and grey box. Press 8 again to put the variant into the main box.
Change neck rib and cuff fabric as these will be different on T-Shirt. Change fabric for these two pieces to ‘2’ instead of ‘1’.
To resize pieces use full stop on key board. For sleeve and cuff which are cut 2 pieces change the S column to 0 and the DN column to 1.
File and save Open Diamino and set the access paths File and new, insert necessary information- name, code (date), width of fabric and global spacing.
Diamino Diamino- Hold down file > go to access paths > click on the white box and find my name > click top blue arrow, then top red then bottom red >click on okay. File (hold down) new. -Give it a name -code : date - Width: 1,500m - max length: 100,000 - Selvage value: 10m Fabric = Type 1 Global spacing = 20 Double click under the ‘Model name’ and find pattern. > Double click ‘size’ select M > tab = will fill in the rest for me. >SAVE (at the bottom) > Okay > open file > click on the chart view to make the colours more prominant. > Okay. Left click the pieces to move them into the box below. (5) changes the direction. X & Y to turn the piece. Efficience needs to be near the 70’s. Turning to PDF = Edit > Plot on a Plotter > Configure > PDF = okay. The Cuffs etc. = File > Modify > okay > change the name (add rib) date, width - 0,900m - change the type to 2. - SAVE -close. File - open it. Get ready to print it. The little pen sits in the digitiser. -Vigiprint is the printer set up - select name - select marker (example paper) - okay - add - watch it happen. When its finished press ‘Cut off ‘ on the printer screen. Then cut out your pattern.
File then new. This screen will appear. I entered my name, code and other information needed. The pattern appeared at the top so I needed to drag it down into the bigger box.
Once I had filled in information on the left, I filled in the right and added the varient to it.
Click on picture to change chart type, check marker, click ok and the following screen should be displayed.
I bought down the pieces and layed them out in the most efficient way.
To save as a PDF- EDIT, Plot on plotter, PDF, OK.
Extras
Darts Open Modaris - file - insert model - ladies - waistband - select it - (=>) load files - close. Moving it= F1 - add a point, on the corner of the sleeve hole. F5 piviting dart, through the bust point. Start on the bust point, click once, draw arrow to first dart nearest to neck. Then arrow to dart next to sleeve. Then click on the ‘new point’ then finally back to the first dart. Clicking 5 times in total. This should close the shoulder dart and open the side one. Type 2 point - click on it (the sqaure 2 times) ‘Merge’ them (merge is in F3) then delection 2 times so they disapear. Change the 2 points at the bottom of the dart to type 1 points. using (section F3) click on them to make them into sqaures. Fill in the dart. F5 - Delection - bust point - selection. Drawing darts in = F1 - semi circular - left click - left click - on the points then right click to finish. SELECTION - takes you off. F5 Piviting dart - bust point - each end of the dart to the french dart then back. F3 ‘selection’ change it into a sqaure. Then take out the ‘X’ by merging then delection. Piviting dart - bust point to end of the dart - the other end to the side seam then back to the first one. Then delete the lines left including the line down the middle of the square on thee end into a cross then deletion. Fill in the dart.
A line skirt Open modaris - file - access paths - select my name - okay - file - new - name it. File - insert model - ladies - skirt block - (=>) load files - close. (Should come up with pattern) Front - move dart - to hem. F1 - add point -from dart to hem. Normal moving or dart - merge the 2 points (just one) +add in curve points reshape move line. Name the piece. Front A line. Back - add 2 points, pivit darts (F2 - Rot2pts) Tidy it up. > Label it > marry > bring it to front > skirt shouldline on the hip joint. - reshape the highest point - divorcing - move the point upward. - seam allowances. (Cetre back + hem have 1.5cm seam allowance) Facings - F1 - parallel - click on waiste line- place in a value of -6 (if it has a ‘-’ before if not dont) then enter. F3 - Adjust 2 lines (click on a point to make it longer without moving the hole line. LINES HAVE TO MEET FOR THE FACING. Cutting out = F4 - seam cut it out - mirror it. Notch - 19cm before the waiste down. (F2 Notch
Working Sketches
Here are some working sketches that I have done on Kaledo. I used the layout of my jersey Tshirt and fitted them into my working sketch layout. I used shapes and colours in the first sketch to make the white tshirt stand out and to make my work individual and different from anyone elses. My second working sketch was a more professional approach sticking with a monochrome colour sheme. I also added the information needed to complete the shirt.
3D Sketches
I experimented with two of my personal favourite designs. I looked at a different way of putting it onto a shirt by making the design smaller and covering the arms. I like the way the design is in the center of the tshirt.
The print matches perfectly when in the middle with the lining around the neck which I love so much. I think this makes the tshirt look clever and together. I love the way the prints look on the model and how the colours stand out so much.
Jersey Workshop
Here is the neck rib and the shoulders from the front and back. The neck has to be able to stretch over a head and therefor is very important to do the right way.
In the jersey workshop we looked at the types of overlocking we needed to use so that the fabric would still stretch. The width between the threads was the first sample we did. We also looked at the the length of the stitches. This was helpful for me as I got a better idea of what I needed to work with.
The sleeve was did inside out and made sure it stretched enough. The fabric had to be the right way up becuase if it wasnt it wouldn’t stretch the right way and the whole sleeve wouldn’t work. We tested the hem to get the best result for our jersey Tshirt. Using a different machine testing the width and lengthof the stiches.
Here is my finished jersey Tshirt on a stand, it worked really well and although it was challenging, I am very happy with the final outcome. Next to it are my six swatches and my header. I like how they have turned out and I feel they match my brand and look very professional.
When Tumours meet Fashion Esther Baena and fashion designer Arielle Gogh from team Transmutation, one of the many teams from the Descience project, this being their vision - “Descience emerged with the vision of fostering collaborations between two creative worlds and creating a new one that provides science with a new language and gives fashion a new source of inspiration.” they collaborated to create a high end fashion garment based on the scientific look of tumours. Their aim was to make an unattractive disease look appealing to the fashion industry. The project started with Esther finding herself concerned with the science and fashion industry being so separate. Esther believed that the two very different companies had the same characteristics in common. Such as curiosity, creativity and imagination. Wanting to put the two together she joined the movement called the Descience which would help her to interact with fashion designs. This would enable her to show a wide audience her research but in a desirable manner. When Esther and Arielle first talked they shared their area of expertise to find out about each other more, they discussed texture, colour and the idea of fashion garments inspired by the scientists field of cancer and tumours. After much research both parties had decided on using microscopic pictures of cancer cells to develop their garments and to create a line of aesthetically interesting outcomes to provoke thoughts within the future audience. After looking through the 45 teams from the project it was clear that each design was completely unique. Each garment had a different shape, colour and texture and you can really see that each team were unique to their own research. Esther and Arielle’s dress caught my eye and stood out to me the most, because of the colours and extraordinary shape of the garment as a whole. Here are some images that the team were inspired by. The shapes and detailed lines can be seen through a powerful microscope. I feel like you can really see the way they have interpreted the scientific cells into the design of the dress.
The basic shape of the dress is a simple two shouldered knee length dress with a tight waste and layered fabrics. There are extra details including an arm garment to accentuate the idea of the design being something so unique and strange. The dress shape inspired by the shape of a tumour it is larger at the bottom of the dress than the top to show the growth. There is a white band around the waste and around the models left arm, this contrasts with the soft but powerful colours of the dress itself. There are 4 standing out colours in the dress, they are Beige, mustard, purple and grey. Together they create a spring type of colour scheme. The fabric at the bottom of the dress is cleverly constructed to gather up in sections, this really shows of the layers really well, it also gives the dress a more diverse look as the lengths are different. The organza and silk fabrics are dyed and rouched together creating layers and making the piece less of a flat dress and more of a 3D sculpted art piece. The dress stood out to me hugely from the start because of all the small lined detailed that covers the dress in sections, it gives the audience an idea of the illness that surrounds the once healthy part of the body. When looking at the dress I feel as if the more volumised areas represent the more serious parts of the disease, as they’re by far the most eye catching parts. In comparison to the more extravagant areas, I also like the subtlety of the more simplistic parts of the dress.
I would like to contrast this project with another project on a similar scale. I feel like comparing and contrasting two fashion designs who have worked with scientists before will be interesting. As they both are doing the same thing yet completely different takes on the subject.
A project called Photonic T bone, it involved Fashion Designer Isabel Lopez and Scientist Elonora Dondossola. This team, a lot like the other were also interested in combining the fashion industry and the science world. Eleonora explains that her goal in this project was to generate a new bone in the skin of the mouse starting from isolated bone cells grown on a plastic scaffold. One of the main uses that the project relied on was a very powerful microscope called Multiphoton Microscope. This system aloud the team to analyse what is going on in the new bone. The images above are some of the photographs taken with the Multiphoton Microscope. you can really tell that these are the photos that inspired Both the design and the scientist for this dress as the colour scheme and shapes replicate the look of the final outcome. The amount of detail you can get from one image is beautiful. I love the colours in these images they really draw your eyes in. To make the dress Isabel made the made the hat with fabric printed with a sublimation so it looks exactly like Elonora picture. She embroidered with crystals and beads and added some LEDs inside giving a crazy effect, and some LED hair extenstions. For the corset she used a sublimation to get the same effect of Elonoras photograph like before. She then mounted ll types of stones, crystals, gems and beads, for the back she added a real scale skeleton spine. She made the skirt by using insulation material, painted and decorated to obtain the same texture of the picture. Then she added some LEDs between the fabrics and crystals, making the final look more creative. I love the way the dress is sculptured to look very unique. The head piece really attracted my attention first and drew me in. I liked the way you have to look from the side to see it through, it shows that not everything has to face the front. This was very inventive and made me think. The corset becoming tight at the waste and almost peplum like gives the model a very feminine physique. The detailing of the beads on the front does also add a girly touch which I like as this matches with the colour scheme. The over exaggerated large puff skirt is beautifully texturised and I really like the bold pinks and blues. The outfit as a whole really does the open your eyes and is so interesting it makes me stare.
Bibliography References Descience07.carbonmade.com,. ‘Descience: Team Transmutation - Inspiration’. N.p., 2015. Web. 16 Feb. 2015. Descience28.carbonmade.com,. ‘Descience: Team Photonic T Bone - Final Look’. N.p., 2015. Web. 16 Feb. 2015. descience,. ‘Descience’. N.p., 2015. Web. 16 Feb. 2015. descience,. ‘Descience’. N.p., 2015. Web. 16 Feb. 2015. hyde, India. ‘BREAKING DOWN THE WALLS BETWEEN FASHION AND SCIENCE’. 2015. Web. 16 Feb. 2015. the Guardian,. ‘When Tumours Meet Fashion | Esther Baena & Arielle Gogh’. N.p., 2014. Web. 16 Feb. 2015.