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RESEARCH
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CONCEPT
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The main research foci were a painting, “Genesis” by Jerome Lagarrigue, a light installation “Ephemeral Afterimage Star” (2008) by Olfur Eliasson and a crystal display at the Natural History Museum in London. Through the student’s research into these three elements, a design-concept has been created fully explored and finely developed. The collection the student will design will be in response to the concept of a contrast in texture, like the contrast between the painting and the lights, with the crystals helping to provide a synthesis. The painting “Genesis” is painted with blurred, thick brush strokes compared with “Ephemeral Afterimage Star” a changing light installation that creates a star out of the projection of sharply-defined geometric shapes building up to the final outcome. The two couldn’t be further apart in shape, texture and colour, apart from the flecks of orange found in parts of the “Genesis” painting and the orange triangle that makes up the star. The student took this forward to think about her colour palette and for Spring/Summer 17, orange is a fresh and bright colour to introduce. This provides subtle contrast with the white and pinks found in the digital print, created by inverting a crystal interpretation, in Photo Shop. The crystals were spotted at the Natural History Museum, where the student was struck with an idea of how to tie all the loose ends together. The contrasting shapes, textures, sizes and colours opened the student’s eyes to a study in contrast and fabric manipulation, which is reflected in the digital print, gold foiling and laser cutting. Taking primary images of topaz, atacamite and rose quartz in a sketchbook led to sketching, tracing, use of watercolours and collage, which formed the basis of the digital print. This then linked into a visit to Holland and Sherry in Peebles where the student took inspiration from their new collection of fabrics taking precious materials such as black pearls and blue sapphires to crush into the material fibres. The importance of this was it made the student think about fabric requirements; instead of using crystals in the material, it was decided to include this element in the digital print and in the choice of foiling. In addition, the significance of the lighting display was that it helped refine the design of the laser cutting and foiling, creating contrast, using simple geometric shapes to provide a synthesis for the collection. The student would go on to create two looks, each containing three garments. Two of these would be constructed from stretch materials, two would reflect the Holland and Sherry influence, and two would be created using urban materials such as mesh, neoprene, scuba jersey etc. These and many more were included in a fabric book, which enabled factors such as weight, texture, feel, properties and cost to be evaluated. There is a very-wide variation in fabric types; the purpose of this was to demonstrate a successful synthesis, based on contrast in texture, size and shape, with subtle contrast in the colour palette.
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URBAN
LUXE
After deciding upon the concept and what would inspire her collection, the student began to think about the silhouettes of her garments. It was essential that the research concepts were included in the design of her garments; the brief calls for URBAN LUXE silhouettes. With this part of the brief in mind the student visited Harvey Nichols in Edinburgh, to take photos of various high-end brands that she felt had silhouettes reflecting an URBAN fashion feel. Also, by completing this research, she found out how to construct her own garments (e.g. seams and hems) to make sure her garments would not look out-ofplace at the higher-end of the market. The student found ideas for urban fabrics such as mesh, neoprene and stretch, carrying this forward into her fabric book where she collected a myriad of samples.
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The student then continued her research of URBAN silhouettes looking at designers such as VETEMENTS, SUPREME and MSGM. The student also looked to new and upcoming designers who have just showcased their final collections such as Philli Wood a student at Westminster, in London. Looking online at their websites and Pinterest, the student got a further idea of the silhouettes she wanted to incorporate in her own design development such as oversized jackets, floor length maxi dresses, oversized hoodies and layered tunic dresses. These designers all use urban materials such as sportswear fabrics but they also use unexpected materials such as bubble wrap and tea towel material making their designs evermore contemporary and reinventing and recycling in the most fashionable way possible.
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The trend that the student has chosen is Pause for Spring/ Summer 17. Using WGSN to look into this trend and understand the colour, texture, shape, and silhouette’s that would be coming up for this trend. The reason the student chose this trend is because it was the perfect link to the her research. She took this as a starting point for researching her silhouettes.
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H O L L A N D &a N D& S H E R R Y
In the fourth week of the project, the student visited the Holland and Sherry HQ in Peebles. As part of the project brief is to reinvent and rethink the traditional fabrics of the brand, the student took many photographs to find her own source of imagery. Looking at the way the Company worked and how they marketed their fabrics also gave the student ideas, like the BLUE SAPPHIRE and BLACK PEARL Campaigns. These are fabric types where in the manufacturing process the precious stones are crushed and embedded into the fibres of the product to add extra luxury. This links in with the concept of the student’s collection as the crystals at the Natural History Museum in London is a huge part of the contrasting textures theme. The student then took the images taken on the visit and started to reflect from them in the sketchbook, working-in the different images and drawing from them. The student was also given samples of different Holland and Sherry fabrics to add to her fabric book so then when sourcing fabrics she could compare quality and textures. One colour that stood out for the student most from the visit was orange; this linked with the orange in her inspirational artwork and also would make a perfect colour for Spring/ Summer.
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L A S E R C U T T I N G Looking at the two elements of the project that worked well together, the geometric shapes and a particular crystal image. On Illustrator, the student imported the image and started to draw the geometric shapes in the pattern of the crystals, so that she could get the desired placement. After an appointment with the Laser-Cut Technician, the student decided to omit laser cutting from her final garments. During the toile review in week eight, the student decided that after the criticism of the digital print being covered by her scuba jersey dress, laser-cutting was something that could help the underneath digital print to connect better with the oversized maxi dress on top. This meant that the student was no longer hiding the print but bringing out something interesting on another garment. 31
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COLLECTION
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PRODUCTION
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D R E S S The student used the size 12 dress block and added 90cm to the bottom to create an oversized maxi; the student chose scuba jersey instead of the intended neoprene which was perfect for laser cutting onto. The student cut the fabric so that she could get a really nice drape, but this affected one part of the laser cut design which didn’t hold its shape well. This was disappointing but did not let the garment down as it is a statement piece to assist the digital print polo. The only issue the student faced was not accusing the overstitch machine for the armholes, so she decided to turn the fabric up twice and then use a ballpoint needle to create two lines of stitching.
/P O L O/ The polo neck was easy to construct, the student took the medium knitted top block for this garment. To create the actual neckline the student lowered the neck by 2cm at the front and 1cm at the back, creating a tube with a seam running down the back. The student used the four thread overlocker to stitch the garment together and cover stitched the hem and cuffs. There were not many issues creating this garment although it was hard to access the cover stitch machine to finish the garment.
JACKET The jacket was one of the most time consuming garments to make so the student allowed as much time as possible. Taking the XXL sized ski jacket block pattern that the student had used in her toile, she started to cut out the final garment. The fabric for the sleeve was foiled in gold using geometric shapes inspired by the Fruit Market Gallery exhibition. The student decided to add wadding to the jacket, so that it could retain an oversized shape. The issues the student faced with this garment was the quality of the fabric; when topstitching the bottom of the garment and unpicking it left marks, the student wanted to use a better fabric but couldn’t find the colour she wanted. To solve this she pressed the garment to make any marks less noticeable.
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J U M P E R The student took the size 14 blouse block to create this garment, she traced off the pattern and created a top and bottom panel. The student had planned to use a woven fabric but after the toile review the student found that it wouldn’t work with the other two stretch fabrics. To fix this issue the student used the university knit department to create a stretch knit material for her, but after washing the finished panels they started to shrink meaning the student had to lose some length from the top panel. This wasn’t the worst issue and the student was still happy with the results. The student only used orange rib knit for the collar and cuff as it was thought that using it also for the hem would ruin the look of the garment.
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The student followed exactly the same process as the first polo for this. The jersey used was much nicer than the digital printed jersey for the first polo which sat a lot more nicely, especially around the neck, giving the garment great shape.
T R O U S E R S The student used the size 10 trouser block to create the trousers, she didn’t want to use the legging block but after reviewing the toile she decided to taper the legs and make them fitted. The trouser fabric was also scuba jersey but in white so the student found this fabric needed to be treated with extra care to reduce marks. The student worried about the mesh panels matching as it was harder to match using the four thread overlocker as she worried about cutting away too much fabric if she made mistakes.
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REFLECTION
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The student used this collection to express herself as a designer, taking the brief in her stride and creating a capsule collection that she could be proud of. The collection started out as an investigation into contrast, but this was modified to include the use of geometric shapes, texture and colour. The construction of the garments was very successful and the student was happy with the end result. There are some minor technical changes that the student would make if this project were to be done again. The student feels this capsule collection gave her an insight into the year to come and how she needed to adapt her style and technique to manage the challenges ahead. The student has learned a lot from this collection, in construction and also putting together all the pieces to create a cohesive yet refined collection. From the research stage to the final garments, the student has learned how to create interesting and well analysed sketchbooks, design and written work. The student hopes that consumers will see that her garments are inspired by a collaboration of different things such as the geometric shapes found at the Fruit Market Gallery, the blurred paint strokes from the National Portrait Gallery and the beautiful and mesmerising crystals on display at the Natural History Museum. All these aspects taken and married together has achieved the urban remastering that was required by the brief. All of the design was inspired by urban silhouettes and illustrates the application of urban style. The student also knows more about the Scottish textiles heritage right on her doorstep. Thanks to the inclusion of Holland and Sherry in the project, to provide inspiration, the student was very pleased to be associated with such a prestigious brand and feels proud that her work has benefited from this important link. Most importantly, it germinated the idea that when it comes to fabric, it is often important to ‘think outside the box’. There is no question that this influence helped the student to re-master her designs. Throughout the project the student felt it has gone from strength to strength, addressing time management issues and prioritising sensibly. She has overcome hurdles like re-designing after six weeks and the daunting challenge of producing multiple garments in a short space of time. If the student could change anything it would be the use of fabrics for the jacket; it was disappointing because had a better-quality fabric been used, an even better outcome would be anticipated. However, she isn’t disheartened as the shape/style of the jacket was exactly what she had envisaged in her design process. Most pleasing was the consistency of style and approach, from research to illustrations to construction and the photo shoot. This latter activity was a worthwhile investment, as it showcases the collection and does justice to the time and effort expended.
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REFERENCES
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Image and research: Fruit Market Gallery (1974), (Online) http://www.fruitmarket.co.uk/archive/another-minimalism/ Accessed 20th January 16. Jerome Lagarrigue, (2014) “Genesis” (National Portrait Gallery, Scotland) Accessed on 13th January 16. Olfur Eliasson, (2008) “Ephemeral Afterimage Star” (Fruit Market Gallery Edinburgh) Accessed on 13th January 16. Alice and Olivia (spring/summer 16) Accessed at Harvey Nichols store on 3rd February 16. Holland and Sherry (online) http://www.hollandandsherry.com/apparel/ Accessed on 25th January 16. Otherworlds: Visions of our Solar System (2016) http://www.nhm.ac.uk/visit/ exhibitions/otherworlds-visions-solar-system-exhibition.html Accessed at the Natural History Museum Accessed on 15th January 16. Phillip Wood (2013), Portfolio, (Online) https://uk.pinterest.com Accessed on 20th January 16. Dan Howarth (June 2nd 2013), Article (online) http://www.dezeen. com/2013/06/02/westminster-ba-fashion-2013-collection-by-philli-wood/ Accessed on 20th January 16. Pause trend (online) https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk/content/reports/#/Future+Trends/w/Fashion_Forecast/24662 Accessed on 19th January 16. Photoshoot Credit: Cameron (2016) Lightbox Creative St. Andrews, http://www.lightboxcreative. me Accessed on 28th March 16.
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