Avancer Magazine

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Avancer

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A EHNOTE T MORFROM F ETOTHE N A EDITOR... ...ROTIDE Dear Readers, Welcome to the premier issue of Avancer Magazine! As many of you may or may not know, “Avancer” is the French verb “to move forwards”. And that is what this magazine is all about. Avancer is going to push the creative industries of photography, illustration, art and design forwards in the minds of intelligent women like yourself.

With creative content from contributing artists, photographers and other individuals, Avancer is full of details and hidden content. If it’s photography you love, turn to pg.30 to see our emotive photo story “just out of touch” or if you’re interested in interior design, we think you’ll love David Carter on pg.84.

A lot of heartfelt work is in this, our first issue, so I hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed producing and editing it.

With Love,

Lucy Elizabeth Roberts Editor-in-Chief

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Contents... ...stnetnoC ...

Editors Letter 3 Contents 5 Contributing editors 7 Peter Callesen’s Heavenly Creations 8 Mr Rob Ryan 14 Naomi Walker Flying High 20 Alexandre Farto 26 Just Out Of Touch, A Photo Story 30 The Decline Of Designer Fashion? 42 The Hidden Treasures of the North 47 The Fairytales of Kelly Smith 56 David Downton and the Elimination of Detail 62 Freya Cumming Photo Story 70 The Light and Dark Tones of David Carter 84 Did You Notice? 90 Treats for the Month 96 ...

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Contributors... ...srotubirtnoC

Luke Bailey has been a keen photographer of fashion ever since he graduated from Northumbria University two years ago. Since his graduation, he his work has been featured in local magazines from his hometown of newcastle such as “The Craic” as well as recently been sought out to shoot a feature for Elle UK. Luke shot this month’s photo story “Just Out Of Touch” featuring Sarah Smith and Calum McLatchie as models. Poignant, emotive and strong, Luke Bailey is one to watch ladies.

Lucy Roberts is the Editor in Chief of Avancer magazine and has poured all of her personality, thoughts, humour and passion into this premier issue.

This magazine is a reflection of the things Lucy loves, art, femininity, graphics, illustration and photography.

A graduate of Fashion Communication from Northumbria University, Lucy has always dreamed of editing her own magazine and providing readers with what she feels the magazine industry is missing.

Katy Reeve hails from her home town of Huddersfield and is a graduate of Fashion Communication from Northumbria Univesity. Katys talents span far and wide, she can photograph, she can draw, she can graphically edit any photo you want, but her true passion lies with styling.

This month, Katy turned her hand to the styling of Sarah Smith in our artist feature on Freya Cumming, sourcing the perfect white dress to fit with the tone of the shoot.

Look out for Katy in next month’s vogue.

Angela and Tim Roberts are two of the most welltravelled people we know. From Vancouver to Hawaii, to Jamaica and Finland, they’ve been all over the world. However, they still insist that thier favourite destination is their home, nestled in the foot of the North Yorkshire moors.

Their contribution to this month’s Location is invaluable, as they show us the beauty of the North Yorkshire moors and countryside.

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I Know You,

Once Upon 8

I Walked With You

a Dream 9

ROMANTIC CITNAMOR TRAGIC CIGART MAGICAL LACIGAM

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Peter Callesen’s

HEAVENLY CREATIONS Lately I have worked almost exclusively with white paper in different objects, paper cuts, installations and performances. It is probably the most common and consumed media used for carrying information today. By taking away all the information and starting from scratch using the blank white A4 paper sheet for my creations, I feel I have found a material that we are all able to relate to, and at the same time the A4 paper sheet is neutral and open to fill with different meaning. The thin white paper gives the paper sculptures a frailty that underlines the tragic and romantic theme of my works.

The paper cut sculptures explore the probable and magical transformation of the flat sheet of paper into figures that expand into the space surrounding them. The negative and absent 2 dimensional space left by the cut, points out the contrast to the 3 dimensional reality it creates, even though the figures still stick to their origin without the possibility of escaping. In that sense there is also an aspect of something tragic in many of the cuts.

Recently I have worked with the notion of complexity in the piece ‘White Diary’. It presents a human head with a sketchbook in the centre. Out from the pages of the book grows a complex thought-process as an imaginative landscape filled with details and fairytale stories. This maze mapping of the brain shows at the same time confusion and a feeling of

getting lost in the detail, which in turn disables any rational overview for a while. Not until the sculpture is seen at a distance and its entirety drawn in can you create order in the chaos.

Another theme in my work is the reinterpretation of classical fairytales associated with a more general interest in memory in connection to childhood. This theme is also present in ‘Crossing’, ‘Castle’, and ‘Jukebox’ which are examples of playful performances that exist in the lost land of childhood - between dream and reality. It is in this meeting or confrontation of these two conditions, in a kind of utopian embodiment, that these works become alive, often in a tragicomic way.

A continual figure in my earlier performances and later drawings is ‘The Dying Swan’, who can be described as a hybrid between ‘The Ugly Duckling’ and a human figure. ‘The Dying Swan’ reveals different layers of identity, and often he strives at being somebody or somewhere else or tries to achieve the impossible. In his interaction and power play with the audience his physical presence often creates an intense and uncomfortable atmosphere. In the drawings ‘The Dying Swan’ creates his own universe, where he seems to be trapped in impossible situations and circles, dealing with death, rebirth, self-creation, and self-destruction.

-by Peter Callesen

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ROMANTIC TRAGIC MAGICAL

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CITNAMOR CIGART LACIGAM 13

Paper Dre

Now You Pour 14

ams Honey

Your Heart Out 15

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Mr.Rob Ryan

Welcome to the fantastic world of Rob Ryan. It is a world different from ours, it is a beautiful place fuelled by love, beauty, idealism and and romantacism.

A graduate from the Fine Art course at Nottingham Trent University and a Masters in printmaking at the Royal College Of Art in London, Rob Ryan has been a dedicated artist since his childhood. He remembers his father giving him the white cardboard which comes with a new shirt as a treat to draw on every so often. Without realising it, his father was probably one of Ryan’s earliest influencers and supporters. Who could have known that a young boy doodling on a piece of white card would one day be one of the biggest artists in paper cutting and screenprinting?

His passion for art began with said doodles, drawings and a lot of imagination. Ever since, he has been honing his talents and is now internationally renowned for his paper cutting and screenprinting works. He has collaborated with Paul Smith, Lulu Guiness and Tatty Devine Jewellery, had his work shown in Vogue and Elle,

as well as building a strong public following in the last ten years. He credits his wife as his reason for success, who supported him for most of his working life so he could continue to pursue his dreams of becoming a regarded artist.

Rob Ryan’s work is intricate, painstaking and bursting with talent and love. The themes which run through his work vary from love, to lonliness and heartbreak, to beauty and joy. His detailed paper cuts are sold in their original format, as well as being transferred onto screenprints, crockery, fabrics and jewellery. One of Rob’s biggest accomplishments so far was the publication of his first book, “This Is For You”, a romantic fairy tale told through beautiful paper cuts.

Let’s hope that Rob Ryan continues to contribute to the Art world for a long time, because without his insight into love and beauty, the world would be a darker place.

-By Lucy Roberts

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It’s Too

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For Angels

Cold Outside

To Fly

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Naomi Walker Flying High

Avancer is proud to present Naomi Walker, a Northumberland based Artist. Here, Lucy Roberts talks to Naomi about her exquisite works of angelic art...

Q How long has art been a part of your life? And how did you first discover your talent?

A I have always loved to paint I remember when I first started aged 4, always having to be the class at drawing princesses! I channelling aged five and began what I saw at around nine.

and draw. school, best in started to paint

Q Could you talk me through the process you go through to create one of your unique angel pieces?

A I normally work on my angels from home. I will turn off the phone, play some relaxing music and perhaps light some candles. I will then set out my canvas and paints. It is important to have all my paints in easy grabbing distance as I sometimes need to work very quickly. When everything is set up, I relax totally, usually clearing my mind with meditation and breathing exercises.

When I feel myself going into what I call ‘the zone’ which is a very relaxed state where images come easily, I pick up my brush and let the energy flow through me and through the brush.

Q With reference to your astral angels, what is it that interests you about the heavenly beings?

A What interests me about them is their intentions for us... their energy is so pure and strong and they really love us here on the earth plane. They wish to guide and help us and they are very eager to communicate this to us.

Q On your website you mention that you channel a lot of energy which in turn inspires your work, could you tell me a little more about this energy and how it comes to you and affects you?

A The energy comes from the one source, the source of creation and life. This energy is all around us and is both within and without us. We are all connected as we are all made from this same energy. I guess you could call it the life spark... all life, animal and plant is built using this same energy.

When I use this energy, I am simply tapping into this source and channelling from it. I am able to visualise this energy and the messages that it has for us. The angels that I channel are the embodiment of the energy.

Q Was it hard for you when you first discovered your ability to channel energy? It is after all such a rare and unique gift.

A No, it came naturally to me. When I was five years old, I was channelling and simply thought that everyone did the same thing. I was just having fun and doing something that I thought everyone did.

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Q How do others react to your ability to channel the energy of spirits when it is a message for them?

A Sometimes with disbelief and skepticism, which I think is healthy and sometimes with shock! I also receive a lot of communication from people who have received messages and contact me later to say how much the message has meant to them and how much it has changed their perception of their life situation or given them hope. A lot of times, people are convinced of the after-life and much comforted, which is fantastic.

Q Can you tell me about how you feel when you go “upwards and backwards� through the universe? It sounds like a fascinating journey!

A It feels a lot like spinning out on a waltzer at the fair. Almost like a dizzy vertigo. You have to be able to concentrate as the first natural response is to open your eyes and try to steady yourself. You have to remember that your physical feet are still firmly on the ground and there is, in fact, no real danger of falling of the edge of something. Everything is happening to your astral body instead... you have to be able to focus on the destination as the spinning and falling sensation can be quite disorientating.

Q Your paintings show the journey of an angel, through rebirth and ascension, is this something which interests you? The journey of life?

A I’d never realised that, I suppose that they do and that this does interest me as all energy forms must go through

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this same process, that of creation, life and finally ascension. I believe that all energy is transformed into another being, I guess you would call it reincarnation. Energy is eternal and does not dissipate, it simply transforms.

As we are energy, as the angels are energy, so must we all go through the same process.

Q Your angels all seem to have and channel different qualities - healing, love, enlightenment, rebirth and peace if you were yourself to be one of these angels, which would you be?

A Difficult question. Probably not one that I have channelled yet. I am a mother and consider myself to be a compassionate person but not an angel!

I consider myself to be the facilitator of others vision and enlightenment by being able to channel these images and messages.

Q Would you say your angels guide you?

You say very briefly on your website you had an unsettled childhood, could your spirits be a sort of guardian angel steering you towards enlightenment yourself?

A Yes, I believe that we all have many angel guides and perhaps one or two that are with us throughout our journey on this earth as well as the energies connected to those we have loved that have passed over. I believe that I am definitely guided and shown when I am on the right path... and when I am not!

-Interviewed By Lucy Roberts For Avancer Magazine

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Call It Love

I Call 26

Call It Hate

It Art 27

“With my work, I try to delve into the several layers that compose the edifice of history, to take the shadows cast by this model of uniform development to try and understand what lies behind it.�

-Vhils 28

Alexandre Farto AKA Vhils Portuguese born, London based street and graffiti artist Alexandre Farto is amongst the industries most innovative artists. The most interesting thing about Farto’s art is that he never actually adds anything to his chosen canvas, he merely chips and excavates surfaces until he finds the texture or colour that he wants. It is this painstaking process which makes the end result so intriguing.

Farto was first noticed when his work of a face carved into a wall appeared alongside some of banksys work at the London Cans Festival in 2008.

Following this publicity, he was quickly noticed by Steve Lazarides, who is also Banksys agent, and has now has his work exhibited in Outsiders Gallery numerous times.

Vhils’ work focusses on re-invention, and using the resources in front of him.

Billboard posters, walls, bricks, acid, bleach and plaster form the basis of his materials. Vhils draws attention to the layers of a city, he shows people the layers of a wall that time forgot, and using an array of anonymous portraits, he brings beauty out from underneath the top layer. He literally scratches the surface to show us what is underneath. It is artists like Alexandre Farto, or Vhils, who show us that there is a talent, a depth and a meaning to street art. It should not be seen as vandalism, or abuse of the landscape, he has made art from nothing, and this is something that we must remember and appreciate.

-By Lucy Roberts 29

Models: Sarah eihcSmith talCcM& mCalum ulaC &McClatchie htimS haraS :sledoM Photography: Luke Bailey yeliaB ekuL :yhpargotohP Art Direction streband oR ystyling: cuL :gnilLucy yts dRoberts na noitceriD trA 30

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Of Touch...

Just Out

Things have become closer to the sun And I’ve Done Things In Small Doses

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So Don’t Think That I’m Pushing You Away When You’re The One That I’ve Kept Closest

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You Don’t Move Slow You’re Taking Steps in My Direction

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The Sound Resounds Echo Does it Lessen Your Affection? No..

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You Say I’m Foolish For Pushing This Aside

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But Burn Down Our Home I won’t Leave Alive

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Glaciers Have Melted To The Sea I Wish The Tide Would Take Me Over

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I’ve Been Down On My Knees And You Just Keep On Getting Closer.

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The Decline Of Designer Fashion ?

IMAGE: Gianni Versace and His Super Models

By Lucy Elizabeth Roberts

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It’s the autumn winter collection of 1991 in Milan. They’re all lined up, left to right. Naomi Campbell, Nadege du Bospertus, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Yasmeen Warsame, Helena Christensen and Karen Mulder. Some of them are smiling, some are pouting, some are posing, but all of them are clearly having a great time. But wait, who’s that man Linda is clutching? She seems to be whispering something in his ear. That man is the King of the supermodels, the King of 90s fashion, he is Gianni Versace. Gianni embraced the supermodel with all her status, personality, curves and womanly appeal. There are countless photos like this one, flash back to the 1990s, and a catwalk image of a Versace show shows Linda Evangelista in red, Cindy Crawford in black, Naomi Campbell in canary yellow and Christy

Turlington in black all storming down the catwalk with their arms around each other. Cindy is saying something to Linda who is giggling, Naomi is listening in and Christy’s head is thrown back as she smiles and laughs, as if she is amused by the whole situation. Versace was at the height of its fame, racing forwards in the fashion world heralding prints, glamour, luxury and the original supermodels.

Versace as a brand held a huge influence over the fashion industry, as well as making the most impact on the public via headlines. During the eighties, designer fashion meant designer outfits head to toe, and it was not unusual to see women dressed completely in Versace.

It was the brand, the logo and the look that was coveted most. Gianni embodied the glamour and fashion of the eighties and most of the nineties

before his untimely death in 1997. So where did it all go wrong? Was the fast paced world of fashion leaving Versace behind? Was it the lack of influence from Gianni that left the brand adrift? Was it the designs? Or was it as simple as this, the lack of money in the economy?

Fast forward to 2011: Versace is the latest fashion house to clutch at the coat tails of the high streets ascent to success, following Lanvin, Valentino, Jimmy Choo and Jil Sander to name a few. With the current economy at an all time low, the great British public simply don’t have the urge to spend hundreds or thousands on a designer outfit when the high street is providing them with fashion, quality, and most importantly, value for their money.

But where does this leave the world’s most talented designers?

IMAGE: Gianni Versace and The Super Models in Milan, 1991

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IMAGE: Karl Lagerfeld for H&M Campaign

It seems now that if a woman is going to buy into a brand, she will first buy the perfume, then the cosmetics, then maybe the accessories, then finally she will consider splashing out on the clothes. Women want easy access to designer fashion, which is why they will first buy into the perfume.

With designers now making the bulk of their profits from their perfume and cosmetics collections, it is clear that this is the quickest way into a brand. Let’s face it, in an economy where women are struggling to balance bills, food shops, education fees and children, there is no reason for them to spend £2,995 on a shearling Burberry coat when they can buy a similar one in Topshop.

Women just want to be associated with the brand, so why buy the multi thousand pound coat, when they can buy the new Body fragrance for £40?

For example, take the classic Mulberry Bayswater handbag.

They retail from £675

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to £2,000, and are one of the most coveted handbags on the market.

A friend of mine has been saving for her oak leather Bayswater for two and a half years, and finally bought it over the summer. The classic shape, size and material of this bag means it will, in theory at least, last her all her life, she told me “this is the bag I will give to my daughter”, and it is not an unrealistic statement.

The quality of Mulberry bags is nearly unrivalled, and despite the ridiculous price tag, it is safe to safe that they are worth the money. Women have a desire to fill their bathroom cabinets, showers and dressing tables with designer logos and products; it makes us feel better and adds a designer status to the surroundings.

The hype that surrounded the “touché éclat” highlighter by Yves Saint Laurent was an instant market hit.

Selling out nationwide in hours, it was hailed as a miracle cosmetic that would hide all

imperfections and shadows. It was such a hit; they have now even released one for men.

The fashion industry is famous for its creativity, theatrics and passion, but will all this cease to exist without the funding of the consumer? The current fairy godmothers of the fashion world are François-Henri Pinault and Bernard Arnault, the CEO’s of the PPR Group (which owns the Gucci Group, Redcats, Redcats USA as well as The Puma Group) and LVMH, which owns fiftynine brands to date.

Unless a brand receives substantial backing from a strong client base, or is bought and therefore supported by one of the groups, there is a choice to be made: sink or swim.

Those who sank did so quietly, and without fuss, simply closing down within a matter of months. Those who swam quickly realised that if there is one thing a woman can’t resist it is designer fashion at an affordable price on the high street.

And so it began back in 2004 when Karl Lagerfeld designed the first high street/designer collaboration for H&M. Affordable designs, high quality pieces and an androgynous Chanel edge made the collection one of Lagerfeld’s most covetable to date. The hype surrounding the collections release date was phenomenal, when the doors to H&M opened that morning; a wave of women flooded through the door all eager to fight each other for the last piece of Chanel.

Although the relationship between H&M and Lagerfeld disintegrated when Lagerfeld expressed his disgust at how H&M had produced his pieces in larger sizes - “my pieces are for slim and slender people” – it sparked a trend in the industry that made both designers and high street giants sit up and take notice. So now, after years of being shunned and ignored by the designer market, is the high street in a newfound position of power? It seems that the former kings and queens of the fashion world are reaching out to the high street giants for help.

H&M have continued to secure many established designers such as Jimmy Choo, Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel, Comme

des Garcons, Zandra Rhodes and most recently Versace. H&M are currently leading the high street revolution, with all designer collections selling out within the day across the country and online.

So, why do some of the most established, wellregarded houses in the fashion industry need a Swedish high street brand to help them?

Surely they are esteemed enough to continue to succeed on their own talents and in their own niche market? My theory is this: the women who buy designer pieces at designer prices represent a fraction of the female population in Britain, whereas the women who shop on the high street represent the vast majority.

So when Donatella’s collection was launched on November 17th, chaos.

Queues lined Newcastle’s Northumberland Street from 8.30am before the doors open at 9, and once inside there was a race on to the back of the store where the IMAGE: Donatella Versace collection was held. in Her Own Design Frenzied shoppers snatched tropical print skirts from each others hands, as others raced for the last leather studded dress, it is safe to say that the collection was an instant sell out, both in store and online.

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H&M are only rivalled by Topshop, who’s designer collaborations boast some of the most prestigious names in British fashion – Christopher Kane, Preen, Markus Lupfer, Richard Nicoll, Celia Birtwell as well as Kate Moss. An army of up and coming British fashion designers have dominated Topshop’s website for some time now, and they show no signs of stopping.

Topshop pride themselves as one of the leaders of the British high street and supporting young fashion graduates, usually from London, are nurturing the new generation of fashion stars.

As the younger generation of socialites and celebrities emerges, it is more common than ever for British

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celebrities to say they like mixing high street and designer pieces. Topshop shorts with a vintage Chanel blouse?

Mulberry bags with Reiss ballet pumps?

It’s almost a foreign language to the seasoned fashionista, but for these twenty something new style icons, it is just the new norm. So it seems that the public are not the only ones who want a quick fashion fix. And where better to go for disposable fashion that the British high street?

As Topshop continue to dominate the high street market, with over 200,000 shoppers walking through the door of their London flagship store every week, does this suggest that they will eventually start to take over the designer market too?

Despite H&M and

Topshop leading the way in the designer/high street collaboration market, a few other stores have tried to get themselves involved with the new trend.

Whistles have secured Roksanda Illinic, Gap worked with Valentino, not to mention George at ASDA partnering with Barbara Hulanicki, founder of Biba. With so many esteemed names working with high street brands, it would appear that this is a new wave of fashion, a new method of marketing, a new way for everyone to be designer in some way. Designer fashion no longer means exclusive head to toe expensive prints and logos, it is a trend that is accessible to all women, everyone can have designer fashion.

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The Hidden Treasures Of The North Welcome to North Yorkshire. A beautiful charming retreat. The views, the variety, the fresh air, what’s not to love? In this feature we look at some of the most enchanting locations of the North which were forgotten by time. Seasides, moors, market towns, North Yorkshire has it all.

Contributing editors Tim and Angela Roberts point us in the right direction.

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Landscape photographer Joe Cornish is based in North Yorkshire and has captured the breathtaking view of Roseberry Topping in Great Ayton here perfectly. Visit joecornishgallery.co.uk to see more of his beautiful photographs. All images are available to be purchased.

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Kettleness Bay is a charming seaside village with a beautiful coastline walk. Part of the North Yorkshire moors walk, Kettleness is a hamlet of peace and quiet, the perfect destination for a weekend holed up in a B&B with that special someone indulging in local ales and pub food with seaside air.

Kettleness is home to some of the most quaint B&B’s in Yorkshire, we reccommend The Florence Guest House in Whitby for some modern comforts in the busier seaside town or for something more romantic stay at the Gramarye Suites Bed and Breakfast. there are many myths surrounding the bays of Kettless and Runswick and their caves which have been carved into the cliff faces by crashing waves. Fathers tell their sons that they are home to the crocodile from Peter Pan, whilst mothers tell their daughters that they are full of hidden treasure from the mermaids underwater castles. If you’re brave enough why not venture to the back of one of the many caves and see what you can find?

Kettleness is also the perfect place to search for fossils, shells and rockpool creatures. For the nature girl in you, we challenge you to find us a perfectly formed fossil over the next few weeks, email your photos to our website or blog, we want to see what you’re getting up to this month!

-By Lucy Roberts

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The walk down to Kettleness

The seascape

The seascape

Contributing Editor Tim Roberts 51

Carlton Bank boasts some of the most scenic views North Yorkshire has to offer. From the flat bank, you can see straight over to the nearest town Middlesbrough, as well as across every village in the county. Kirkby, Carlton, Stokesley, Busby are all laid out right before your eyes.

Carlton Bank is reached by driving through the scenic village of Carlton, where there is a local pub called The Blacksmiths Arms, (strangely reknowned for its thai food), as well as a beautiful beck which is the perfect setting for a romantic walk.

Carlton Bank is the ideal place for a scenic, easy walk. Visitors can choose to stroll across the flat bank and enjoy the views, or they can tackle the hilly slope to get to the top of the bank where the rest of the moors are clearly visible. Walkers can see right across to Roseberry Topping in Great Ayton, and the adventurous can even trek across the top of all the moors.

However, if walking isn’t your thing and you just want to enjoy the fresh air, I reccommend taking a picnic hamper or just popping into the cafe conveniently located by the car park, Lordstones Cafe. My favourite is the bacon and egg sandwich, enjoy!

-By Lucy Roberts

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The surrounding villages

The flat bank

The view of Roseberry Topping

Contributing Editor Tim Roberts 53

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Storms of petals are pouring down, Pushing their way through our pink love 57

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The Fairytales Of

Kelly Smith

Kelly Smith is a graduate from the Tasmanian School of Art in Australia, and has been illustrating for all of her professional life. Her drawings are full of mysticism and beauty, detailed with fine lines, soft water colours and attention to detail.

Her clientele include Vogue, The Sunday Times, Net-A-Porter and the General Pants Co. Kelly brings something new to fashion illustration, a quality which is quite undefinable. Her style of work is light, feminine and carefree, highlighted with wistful tones, which transports us all to a world of fashion fuelled escapism. Kelly’s model muses are captured down to their last freckle, and are re-dressed by her hand in an array of new season clothes from various designers. Kelly Smith is an illustrator who is clearly passionate about fashion and all it has to offer. Maybe it says “illustration artist” on her C.V. but everyone who sees Kelly’s work knows she could be a stylist.

Kelly takes her cue from fashion, film and fairytales and begins by using a pencil to draw her subject, capturing an uncanny likeness for each of her subjects. Elements of water colour and graphics are usually added digitally during post development. The result? A beautiful image made up of layers of talent, colour and detail.

-By Lucy Roberts

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Fashion!

Fashion!

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Turn To The Left...

Turn To The Right!

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David Downton and the

Elimination Of Detail

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How did you become a fashion illustrator?

I am not really sure, it happened very gradually. I spent about 15 years as a freelance illustrator taking on whatever came in.

Sometimes, because of my style of drawing I was asked to produce fashion images- but I think during that time I covered almost every subject matter.

Were you interested in fashion?

Not particularly - but I loved the work of the fashion illustrators, Gruau, Antonio and Eric and always appreciated them as artists.

What first drew you to illustration?

I was always drawing. As a child, my idea of a treat was a big sheet of white paper. I didn’t realise, until much later, that you could make a living from drawing.

What triggered your move into fashion illustration?

Absolutely. In 1996 I was sent to draw at the Paris haute couture shows for a magazine. Like most illustrators I sit listening to Radio 4 with an angle poise for company, so I was very excited to get out of the studio.

What was your reaction to that first trip to couture?

It blew me away! I was totally unprepared for it. Couture really is a parallel universe - I’ve heard it described as the kingdom of indulgence, which is true. The worlds most beautiful women, designers working without constraint - the sheer theatricality of it all!

Lets talk about your work methods. How do you arrive at the elimination of detail?

For me this is the hardest and the most interesting thing. In order to leave something out, first you have to put it in, or at least understand how every thing works. I do dozens of drawings on to layout paper taking the best from each one as I go. When the drawing looks right I start to eliminate, to de-construct if you like.

I keep working until it looks spontaneous.

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So how do you draw on location?

I don’t actually draw during the catwalk shows anymore, I find it impossible. I take photographs or I just watch - I draw whenever there is a chance that the model will stay still, backstage or at fittings sometimes even in the car between shows.

When I first started I thought it was my responsibility to draw the clothes as they came down the catwalk. The first show I ever saw was Versace couture, I just about managed to draw Kate Moss’ arm before she disappeared!

What for you makes a successful fashion illustration?

Fluidity, mastery of the medium - capturing a sense of the moment, layout and use of space and most important of all, strong drawing.

What is your attitude to the computer?

Well, I have one, I think its probably a necessary evil, but nothing can compare with that first flash of black ink on white paper.

How do you escape from the world of style?

By not living in it!

David Downton Interviewed by Tony Glenville for Avancer

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Every Street’s A Catwalk

When You’re Looking Like That

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Using the beautiful screenprints of Freya Cumming as a base, we asked Sarah Smith to literally put herself in the picture.

Model: Sarah Smith htimS haraS :ledoM Artist: Freya Cumming gnimmuC ayerF :tsitrA Photography streb&oRArt ycuDirection: L :noitceriLucy D trARoberts & yhpargotohP Styling: Katy Reeve eveeR ytaK :gnilytS 71

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Mystery the moon, A hole in the sky.

A supernatural nighlight, So full but often right.

A pair of eyes a closing one, A chosen child in the golden sun.

A marble dog that chases cars, To the reaches of the beach and far beyond.

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The cosmic fish they love to kiss, They’re giving birth to constellations.

No riffs and oh no reservations, if they should fall you get a wish or dedication.

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May I suggest you get the best For nothing less than you and i

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Let’s take a chance as this romance is rising over before we lose, The lighting.

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Oh Bella, Bella Please, Bella you beautiful luna, Oh Bella do what you do Do Do Do Do Do.

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You are an illuminating anchor Of leagues to infinite number, Of crashing waves and breaking thunder, Tiding the ebb and flows of hunger.

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You’re dancing naked there for me You expose all memory You make the most of boundary.

You’re the ghost of royalty imposing love, You are the King and Queen combined 80

Intertwining like a ring about the finger, of a girl I’m just a singer, you’re the world All I can bring ya Is the language of a lover. Bella Luna, my beautiful beautiful moon.

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The Light And Dark Tones Of

David Carter 84

ehT thgiL dnA kraD senoT fO

divaD retraC

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“Bold, Romantic, Fantastical..”

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“Bold, Romantic, Fantastical..” ”..lacitsatnaF ,citnamoR ,dloB“ David Carter. What words are left to write or say when you’ve seen his portfolio? Viewers are left breathless in the wake of Carter’s splendid creations, he literally has the ability to create a new room within an old room.

Working only within the spectrums of Light and Dark, Carter works in luxurious, rich tones and hues regardless of his location. Carter’s dark rooms are seductive, reclusive rooms reminiscent of past eras, whilst his light rooms seem to be filled with heavenly beings and spirits, full of light and carefree tones.

David Carter is a London based interior designer, who’s projects are mainly high end residential homes in the UK and also oversees.

Carter has been running his interior design practice for over sixteen years, providing his expertise to an international clientele that has included Middle Eastern potentates, Captains of industry and City professionals.

He works for people who don’t want an ‘off-the-peg’ design solution, but who are looking for something special, unique and bespoke.

Carter doesn’t like labels. His signature style might loosely be described as ‘contemporary classic’, but all this really means is that he loves mixing old and new, and he is equally adept at conjuring up all the theatrical flamboyance of a Marie Antoinette-inspired boudoir as he is masterminding the muted machismo of a Bond-esque bachelor pad.

Carter’s unique vision and the haunting beauty of his interiors have always attracted a huge amount of coverage in the world’s most influential design magazines (check out PRESS for more details). He has also been short listed for the highly prestigious Andrew Martin International Interior Designer of the Year Award - widely regarded as the ‘Oscars’ of the interior design industry - in 2001 and 2007. www.alacarter.com

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Did You Notice..?

So, did you? This month’s issue of Avancer magazine has a running theme of music on almost every feature page. Artists such as Jason Mraz, Ed Sheeran and The XX have all featured in this issue. This is because we consider music to be one of the most influential industries in the creative world. The lyrics are poetry, the videos are art, and the stage costumes are simply decadent.

Our featured artists this month are The XX whose beautiful lyrics from “Crystallised” ran alongside Sarah Smith and Calum McLatchie in our photo story “Just Out Of Touch” and Jason Mraz’s “Bella Luna”, who provided the soundtrack to our artist feature of Freya Cumming.

The xx are an English indie pop band, formed in their home country in London in 2005. The band’s members met while studying at Elliott School, the same school that produced Hot Chip, Burial and Four Tet.The trio comprises of Jamie Smith, Romy Madley Croft and Oliver Sim. The band’s first album was self-titled, and was released in 2009 with record label Young Turks. The band had complete input and produced the album themselves and most of it was recorded in a garage under the recording studio to lend an eerie atmosphere to the album. The album, xx, is a haunting mix of beautiful melodies, poetic lyrics and heartfelt tunes. The album tells a soulful story, with each song containing such huge volumes of emotion it can leave the listener quite speechless.

Their track “Crystallised” which was featured in Avancer was also featured as itunes’ single of the week in august 2009.

Jason Mraz. Where to begin? He released his debut album “Waiting for my Rocket to come” back in 2002 containing the hit single “The Remedy”. Between 2003 and 2005, Mraz opened shows for Tracy Chapman and Alanis Morissette before releasing his second studio album Mr A-Z in 2005. It wasn’t until the release of “Mr. A-Z” in 2005 that he became commerically recognised.

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In 2009, Mraz released his third studio album “We Sing, We Dance, We steal things” which contained the now internationall reknowned song “I’m Yours”. This is when Mraz realised he was a true success. Previous to “I’m Yours” storming the Top 10 charts in the UK, Jason Mraz’s following had always been across the pond as a small idnie musician in America. His songs and albums are now a huge hit worldwide as he has become widely known and successful.

Finally, Avancer is proud to be one of the many fans of Ed Sheeran who shot into the public eye after the X Factor contestants covered one of his songs “The A Team” during the boot camp section of the competition. His songs are soulful, insightful and wise of a life beyond his twenty years. On 8 January 2011, Sheeran released his final independent record, “No.5 Collaborations Project” featuring appearances by artists including Wiley. For this, Sheeran gained a huge recognition for reaching number 2 in the iTunes chart without any promotion or label, selling over 7,000 copies in its first week. Three months later, Sheeran put on a free show to fans at the Barfly in Camden. Over 1000 fans turned up to see the show, so Sheeran ended up playing four different shows to make sure everyone saw a gig, including a gig outside on the street after the venue had closed.

Later that month, Sheeran was signed to Asylum / Atlantic Records. On 26 April, Sheeran appeared on the TV music show ‘Later... with Jools Holland’ – where he performed the song “The A Team”. Six weeks later “The A Team” was released as a digital download in the United Kingdom. The release served as the lead single from Sheeran’s debut studio album, entitled + – which was released through Atlantic Records on 12 September 2011. “The A Team” entered the UK chart at number 3, selling over 58,000 copies in the first week. It was congratulated on being the highestselling and highest-charting debut single of 2011.

Remember to look out in next month’s Avancer for more hidden talents and themes.

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Jason Mraz

Ed Sheeran

The XX 92

Jason Mraz

Ed Sheeran

The XX 93

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While we’re working on next month’s issue, why not entertain yourself with a few treats?

House of Annie Lennox The V&A is hosting a Postmodernism exhibition throughout the winter of 2011/12 and is including a selection of satellite exhibitions which are on show around the museum. The first of these is a display which displays the image and creative vision of the former singer for the Eurythmics.

It’s free to get into the V&A so why not treat yourself to a day out? This exhibition runs until the 26th February, so there’s plenty of time!

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The Fashion and Textile museum London present Catwalk to Cover, an exhibition running now until February 25th.

Through a series of photographs from top catwalk photographers - the viewer will get an insight into the chaotic world that makes up the fashion world.

Visitors will get a look at some of the more unusual catwalk moments captured by the show photographers. from Vivienne Westwood to Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs.

So from the synopsis it sounds a little scary. But remember how freaked out we were by Black Swan whilst simultaneously loving the art, the fashion, the storyline? We think Sleeping Beauty may be like that.

Sleeping Beauty is about a student who falls into prostitution and uses drugs to send ehrself to sleep whilst with clients so she cannot remember a thing the next morning. Scary?

Yes. Do we want to see it? Yes.

While we’re working on next month’s issue, why not entertain yourself with a few treats?

Rihanna’s new album “talk that talk” is available now, and features the most jaw dropping selection of tracks. From the number one hit “we found love” to the soulful “farewell”, we couldn’t be happier that Rihanna’s sixth studio alubum is out and playing.

The lady herself is showing no signs of slowing down or stopping, and after her appearance in December’s Vogue UK, we can tell that now she’s dominated the music industry, fashion is next.

Time to snap up some Christmas Party and New Years Eve goodies ladies, and our first port of call is going to be the Limited Edition Dress section of our faithful friend topshop. com. Prices start from £125, and our eyes are firmly stuck to this beautiful orange cut out crepe dress.

Go and get yours now, because once they’re gone they won’t be coming back!

Ok Ok, it doesn’t start until March but we couldn’t resist telling you! The Design Museum in South East London is putting on the very first exhibition of Louboutins!

It will explore how, over the past twenty years, Christian Louboutin has transformed the design of the shoe. In a dramatic exhibition environment, Louboutin’s creative approach will be profiled, together with the influences behind his work ranging from the Parisian music hall, travel, art, landscape architecture and film.

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Thank you And Goodnight.

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