Luke Roberts / Critical Study / 2014 by Luke Roberts

Does Urban Fashion Follow and Mimic Contemporary Graphic Design Trends?

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19702014111157195 A critical study written and designed by Luke Roberts

Contents Page / 1

Overview of topics iI will be discussing indepth, explanation of the topic question.

Discussing the similarities between the graphic design and the fashion design industry. Including education, work ethic and idea generating.

Beginning / How urban fashion came about, what it's influences were in the early stages and how it was effected by early graphic design.

Overlaps /

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Introduction /

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Looking specifically into some examples of urban fashion and graphic trends overlapping.

Looking into how urban fashion has kept up with changes but still maintained its roots

Case Studies/

Contemporary Urban Fashion/

Contents Page / 1

An indepth look into trends and forecasting.

Trends /

Contents Page /21

Where both indusrties stand now and how developments have altered their course.

References and links of pages or people who I gained information from to create this study.

Conclusion / Where my research and studies have lead me to stand and which answer i believe the research leans towards primarily.

Bibliography/

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Present Day /

Contents Page /21

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Represent Clothing / Rubberised Jacket Collection / 2014

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? Introduction / The topics I will cover and hopeful outcomes

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Before delving into the question at hand there is a need to understand and define what I hope to achieve through exploring a definitive answer to this topic. Some of the subjects which I will be studying will broaden my insight into the critical factors influencing the relationship between the two elements of urban fashion and graphic design. For example I wish to gain an awareness of how they share common mediums and attributes. Undoubtedly the backbone of the Graphic Design industry is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; trends. This is anticipated to be a fertile area to explore the link between "The event was recorded Urban Fashion and Graphic Design. by a contemporary For Design Agenciesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; work to stay historian" relevant they have to keep up to date with current styles, colour schemes, layouts and everything in between that people are drawn to. By being alert and responsive to the above factors or, sometimes, by directly going against what is popular they are able to gain a superior understanding and advantage in how to make their work have unique appeal and how to essentially make it more commercially successful. Contemporary

Adjective 1. iving or occuring at the same time.

Introduction / The topics I will cover and hopeful outcomes

Introduction

The Fashion Industry shares very similar values when it comes to what can be gleaned through the knowledge of trends. Having become aware of these common characteristics I am finding the relationship between both industries to be very intriguing. I wish therefore to explore and examine how the Fashion Industry may gain inspiration and generate ideas through the stimulus of Contemporary Trends, in similar ways to Graphic Design.

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Represent Clothing / Spirit Collection / 2014

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The Beginning / Urban Fashion / An Overview of how Urban Fashion Started and where its roots vcome from

New printing methods were growing in popularity at astonishing rates in this time period an example of which was iron-on printing. This enabled a designer to create a piece of paper-based art separately and later transfer it onto fabric. This improvement in the production of fashion items proved revolutionary for the industry leading to a massive increase in collaborations especially between urban fashion and the hip hop artists. As this trend was heavily based on Hip Hop music a very popular concept was the use of the new printing processes to brand artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; s names or slogans on t-shirts thereby preserving urban fashion in the public eye.

The Beginning The Beginning

19702014 111157194 The Beginning / Urban Fashion / An Overview of how Urban Fashion Started and where its roots vcome from

Urban fashion emerged in the 1970s originating in New York, The style itself gained a lot of inspiration from contemporary Hip Hop music. The main components of this fashion consisted of baggy clothing, graphic t-shirts and dark colours. (Gregory Roger, Self Growth) The appeal of it, however, came mostly from how the variety of this clothing could make such a statement. From these early stages the fashion movement had to stay ahead of a range of continuous technology advances and evolving production methods to keep the movement current. A substantial number of these factors originated from the graphic design field thus creating perhaps one of the first considerable overlaps within both the Graphic and the Fashion fields of Design.

Other than the topics mentioned above there were also some direct links in trends between urban fashion and graphic design in terms of pattern, colours and form. A striking example of this is the use of stripes. This can be seen in designs from graphic artists such as Milton Glaser and Herbert Bayer during the early 1970s. These case studies show that Fashion and Graphic Design began even then to mimic each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; s methods and outcomes albeit, at times, unconsciously.

The late 1960s and early 1970s was also the time when the conceptualism movement was emerging. (Terry Smith, E-Flux) Art started to become abstract to a point where it was changing the face of art altogether. There was a revolution in peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; s freedom of expression which encompassed every type of art including both performing and visual arts.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The beginning is the most important part of the workâ&#x20AC;?

1970 / The Beginning of Urban Fashion

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19702014 111157194 The Overlaps of Fashion and Graphic Design

As mentioned earlier there are a wide array of overlaps encompassed within the Fashion industry and Graphic Design. This is apparent right from the beginning of each design cycle. They both commence with ‘ idea generating’ and ’ initial development’ relating to how both artists get their thoughts on to paper. Whether through doing sketches, mind maps or written plans, both artists have the same mind set. This facilitates similar development paths for the artists in later stages of the process. Another example of a similarity which allows both styles of work to tie in with one another are the work habits. As both are trying to communicate visually with the audience or customers this means that the work habits are similar. For instance both fields prepare layouts and sketches which are then

presented to clients for feedback, this allows both artists to have time to take productive criticism and make changes and alterations to produce a more successful final piece of work. Also both professions are overlooked by creative directors or art directors. This also means that both sets of people have to be very in touch with communication and the effects of particular symbolism, icons and topics on the target audience. Another big one is how the use of computers has advanced both industries. Because of how vital the Internet has already become, it means that the virtual boundaries between both professions are likely to become narrower. Fashion, as a whole, has produced a web-based presence for its work. Elements in businesses, such as online avatars, websites and blogs, have become essential

19702014 111157194 The Overlaps of Fashion and Graphic Design

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Both graphic designers and fashion designers often prepare sketches or

layouts of their ideas for a project and present them to clients for feedbackâ&#x20AC;?

to keep up with the progression of society's focus. Furthermore, this means that more Graphic Designers have to be employed by the industry. Web designers, branding artists and increased advertising staff are all needed to keep up with these developments. The importance of all situations mentioned above lead back to the prominence of trends, mentioned previously. From the get go of the design cycle, each artist will be, sometimes unconditionally, producing work influenced by current design trends, they themselves will be influenced by other corporations around them therefore the majority of the time their first ideas on paper will already be

"on trend". This may differ when upcoming trends are changing and taking the place of old material however the premise is still there.

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Represent / Shadow Collection / 2014

Represent Clothing / 2014 / Shadow Collection

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Trends The word ‘ trends’ is always going to have the same literal definition. When put into context, however, it can be interpreted in different ways for different scenarios. This is also apparent when talking about Graphic Design trends and Fashion trends.

What Are Trends? / Why Are They Significant?

It is arguable that, for several reasons, fashion trends work in a different way to Graphic trends. For example at first glance fashion trends seem a lot easier to predict. There are a large number of companies and specialist firms which 'forecast' fashion trends. The need for such entities in itself shows that it may not be so easy to predict as first assumed. There is, however, a system which is employed by these companies which factors in relevant statistics to establish an initial baseline in order to begin these predictions. The approaching season for example would usually determine what colours and shades will be on trend.

Recent trends are also examined which can determine if a similar visual style is going to be in the limelight next. Similarly, another approach which is often used is consumer research where a business or specialist would ask consumers directly what their preferences currently are and what they have preferred previously. This again allows a honing process to be effected. Lastly, a relatively new method that is being used is market intelligence. This particular process allows companies to view statistics which gives them an idea of whether their product is being accepted well by the consumers. Many large organisations in Asia are turning to marketing intelligence online for input into their strategic management system and decision-making.

This again links back to how the fashion industry has had to get a embrace the online aspect of recent changes to optimise their businesses' effectiveness. On the other side of the equation there are also forecasting companies and websites for Graphic Design trends which are just as popular as the fashion variations. Graphic Trends, like those in fashion, are also predicted using the same factors. The similarities begin to become evident when it is realized that the majority of the methods used by fashion forecasters to achieve their data employ skills which can be easily transferable when turned to graphic trends. Consumer research, for example, works just as effectively in graphics. It is possibly one of the most important stages to forecast a trend. Online research also plays a significant part in both contexts. This helps determine how recent technology developments may effect the trends and how consumers are going to react to these changes. One case study of this is how the developments in app and software design enable users to create flat designs at ease. “ "This development meant that downloads for flat design increased by 200%””

This example signifies that online research plays just as significant a part as any in relation to trend forecasting. Both trends, in my view, are very similar because of this. Forecasting is not the only factor incorporated into trends. Another significant factor is the reasoning encompassing why trends exist in the first place. What is it that motivates individuals to have the mind-set to stay on trend and how is that significant?

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Some may say that the reason why trends are even in existence is because “ “It is easier to conform than to be different”

Trend Noun Plural noun: trends 1. A general direction in which something is developing or changing. "An upward trend in sales and profit margins"

“As a designer, you've always got to push yourself forward; you've always got to keep up with the trends or make your own trends. That's what I do.” - Alexander McQueen

What Are Trends? / Why Are They Significant?

The above statement, however, can be challenged. In some instances, the trend is to be off-trend which may seem nonsensical to some. A factor, however, which has long existed, even before trends originated, is the fact that the obscure attracts interest. If something is different then it is interesting. This may, perhaps, explain why trends come and go. Once a trend has expired individuals

lose interest and look to something new. It is, however, vital for both graphic and fashion designers to get their work noticed and appreciated by consumers. To this end their works are produced in a style which is popular at that time. There is a largely held view that it becomes significantly more challenging to get a majority to enjoy and appreciate your work if it is different or outside the norm. A trend is believed to surface when a large number of people gain interest in something which has been produced. A following then results. When referring to design the majority then begin to mimic and interpret it in their trend

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Though all rivers flow into it, the sea never overflows.

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Images of contemporary urban fashion have been displayed throughout this booklet. The fashion editorial pieces which have also appeared on previous pages are examples of how urban fashion has evolved until this point. It may appear that the style has moved forward on a significant tangent from how it first appeared in the 1970s. This is exemplified by the fact that the visual appearance is very different now. Every vital element, however, is still evident. The influence is taken from the same areas and still maintains the approach which was present at the inception of Urban

indistinct from high end fashion due to how the urban fashion industry has adapted. Rick Owens is a fashion designer whose work mainly fits into the urban genre. Some of his products, nevertheless, sell on the mass market for prices in excess of 8,000 British pounds. He uses an array of rich materials such as genuine leather, kangaroo skin and on some occasions 9.0 Karat diamonds. Some people believe that this has veered too far away from the roots of urban

Contemporary Urban Fashion / How It Has Changed

“I have reached the glass ceiling. As a creative person, as a celebrity. When I say that it means I want to do product. I am a product person. Not just clothing, but water bottles design, architecture, everything that you can think about, and I’ve been at it for 10 years. And I look around and I say, ‘Wait a second. There’s no one around here that looks like me, and if they are, they’re quiet as fuck.” - Kanye west Fashion. Just like everything else art-related there are different branches and subsections which equally apply to urban fashion. It is evident that contemporary urban fashion has taken an almost minimalist approach in their designs. Currently, high quality materials are being utilized and production standards have undoubtedly been raised. This is an adjustment which has had to be put into effect to keep up with trends. A lot of urban fashion in the present day may become

fashion. If related back to the early stages of urban fashion, however, it has always been associated with having this unique way of combining both expensive and inexpensive clothing. This, however, is an extreme example of highend urban fashion. The examples throughout this critical study have been taken from companies which mimic high-end pieces of clothing having incorporated their own details and adjustments and then marketed

would gain a lot of media attention for it. It was not understandable to see an African American male rapper to be wearing such style of clothing, a lot of the media refereed to it s “ feminine”

Without their knowledge this triggered and opened up a whole new section to urban fashion, the main focus of this style is to create a unique silhouette whilst maintaining a masculine or feminine look depending on the context. Within this, slim fitting, longline structures are used. Also a big element which is used is creating panels through stitching methods, sometimes incorporating blocks of white, gray or black into the fabrics to maintain the monotone appears but add small details to the work.

One of the more notable instances of this was when he wore an ankle length 'KTZ' hooded top in black which was filled with white coded typography, he got a lot of criticism for this from the media. However this is one of the vital points which launched this branch or urban fashion, because ASAP Rocky was upcoming at the time of this, it became popular very quickly.

“ASAP Rocky is another such rapper who has an affinity for dresses. The “Peso” rapper had social media buzzing after making an appearance on 106 & park wearing a dress.”

Contemporary Urban Fashion / How It Has Changed

All of this is still within the realms of Urban Fashion as it is the inspirations which is what counts in this context. All the pieces of clothing are influenced by Hip Hop music artists and their music. The all black outfits were originally brought around after Artists would appear in oversized dark t-shirts and dark trousers. It was firstly used by well know Hip Hop musicians to blend in to avoid any unwanted attention whilst in public. Somebody who was accustomed to this goes by the name ASAP Rocky, he is a Hip Hop artist and started wearing the style mentioned. He later went onto gaining an interest in high end fashion, him and a few other individuals may have had the influence on the fashion designers to kick start this trend. ASAP Rocky began wearing knee length slim fitting tops made by top tier fashion designers after this found interest in high end fashion and

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the product with a much more 'reasonable' price tag. From looking at the photography throughout this booklet a direct correlation to newly found graphic design trends can be perceived. The most prominent one being ‘minimalism’ . Minimalism within Graphic Design is used in editorial spreads, magazine covers, posters and advertising. This trend is one of the few instances where the particular style had not been explored extensively previously. It was not therefore an historic trend that was coming back into popularity. This may be the reason motivating some fashion designers in adopting this approach as it was perceived to be an unmissable opportunity to make their work intriguing.

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Represent Clothing / Shadow Collection /2014

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Case Studies Many of these overlaps and similarities

particularly noteworthy. His work consists

previously mentioned are evident in current

of the monotone colour scheme which is

and anticipated work. There are numerous

combined with some unique and playful

instances where you can see crossovers

typography. He is one of the more well

of trends from graphic design to urban

known designers who work in this particular

fashion.

way. This style is also demonstrated to be evidently transferable to the fashion industry particularly in urban fashion. As shown in the examples throughout this

One of the most utilized instances of this is

booklet

not identified in one specific piece of work

urban fashion to a new level where they

but it can be seen through a whole range

have steered away from printed designs

of contemporary graphic design work.

and have taken a more contemporary

An example being the use of "monotone"

approach. ‘ Negative space’ and ‘ panelling’

schemes.

are the two primary design factors that

The most common example is the use of

are incorporated in their clothing. For the

purely black and white throughout work.

majority of the time no colour is added at

A lot of flat design work such as posters

all with the exception of grey shades being

and editorial pieces of work manage to

incorporated in certain pieces. This style

sustain a connection with the subject of

has the same effect on fashion designers

the work by only using this two-tone colour

as it did with graphic designers. With the

scheme. They are able to convey certain

limitations of no colour being utilized it

connotations or messages in this style. This

takes a lot of practice and skill to be able

can present a challenge for designers as

to translate a unique and interesting design

they are significantly self-limited but are

idea into a product which consumers are

still able to achieve a suitable outcome.

willing to pay for when the only elements

This is a beneficial exercise as it promotes

incorporated are black, white and greys.

"monochromatic"

colour

some

companies

have

taken

a creative mind-set and encourages lateral

thinking when generating ideas within these

Another context in which overlaps are

constraints. The work of Armin Hofmann is

evident is one which has already been

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touched on. The use of minimalism has been very popular within graphic design in recent years. It has allowed designers to open up a whole new way of working. There is a lot of opportunity for some very distinctive pieces of work to be created in this style. One specific exercise that has become particularly popular within this style is people recreating and adapting movie posters to fit this genre. One of the main reasons this became so widespread was the way that elements and subjects relating to a whole film could be conveyed through such a minimal piece of work. There is the opportunity for many subliminal messages and subtle details to be incorporated easily into this style. Again, this way of working has been transferred over to urban fashion. As In the examples mentioned previously it is evident that there are no intricate

patterns or shapes used in the designs. Simple geometric shapes are the only differentiations in each piece of clothing. The use of black and white identifies closely with minimalism and compliments it very effectively. Minimalism, in this context, facilitates the transfer of details over to elements such as the materials used and the stitching types. This highlights the need for designers to crucially take into account small adjustments and additions in order to make their work stand out and excel over other competitors.

These two are the most prominent examples in the context of present day urban fashion. Through the eras other graphic design trends have been distinguishable through the fashion medium. When urban fashion predictably changes and develops again more overlaps and similarities will inevitably become apparent.

Case Studies 29

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ADYN / Airtex Collection 2014 / Present Day Overview

19702014 111157194 ADYN / Airtex Collection 2014 / Present Day Overview

In the present day of Urban Fashion all of the methods, developments and adjustments are accounted for to make sure that this style section keeps up with other sectors of the fashion industry. This had lead to producing the style which is seen throughout this critical study, all of the fashion seen throughout these editorials have been selling a lot more successfully than it would have during the beginning of urban fashion because they are able to see the reception which is produced from realizing these products. Adjustments and alterations have been made to these products from indirect productive criticism gained through social media and general media reactions through the Internet. In my opinion this has indefinitely lead to these companies being able to take a more adventures approach to their work in contrast to when the fashion started up in the 1970s. These companies are able to take direct ideas from their customers which gives the companies almost an unbreakable foundation of consumers.

19702014 111157194 Rick Owens Quote / Fashion Designer /Refrenced In Page 20

THE COOLEST THING IS WHEN YOU DON'T CARE ABOUT BEING COOL ANYMORE. INDIFFERENCE IS THE GREATEST APHRODISIAC THAT'S WHAT REALLY SUMS UP STYLE FOR ME. - Rick Owens, Fashion Designer.

19702014 111157194 Rick Owens Quote / Fashion Designer /Refrenced In Page 20

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Conclusion

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Throughout this study, it is evident that there are some strong links between the way urban fashion and graphic design follow trends. This is exemplified through the methods of research mentioned and the decisions which the businesses make. The research into how both sectors have advanced and changed since their inception has definitely made the overlaps more vivid. This has brought up some topics which may not have been taken into account at first glance of the question. From the information which has been explored and delved into throughout this study the closure of this topic undoubtedly leans more towards the view that urban fashion does in fact follow and mimic contemporary design trends. There is very little evidence that the fashion industry has a whole different angle of how to keep up with trends and this backs up the idea that they both work in similar ways.

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Represent / Shadow Collection / 2014

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Bibliography / Refrences

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Bibliography Clothing Photography: Represent Clothing./ Look Book (India Rose) http://representclothing.co.uk/pages/lookbook-a (Unavalible to view) http://representclothing.co.uk/pages/lookbook-b http://representclothing.co.uk/pages/lookbook-c http://representclothing.co.uk/pages/lookbook-d http://adyn.co.uk/collections/airtex

Information Gathered: Tufts. - "Fashion Trends Through the Decades" http://www.tufts.edu/~mlee21/trends.html

Bibliography / Refrences

http://adyn.co.uk/collections/aw-13

http://www.tufts.edu/~mlee21/2000s.html http://www.tufts.edu/~mlee21/1990s.html EHow - "How Fashion and Graphic Design Are Related" http://www.ehow.com/about_6704955_fashion-graphic-design-related.html http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/9/836/pink-is-out-but-blue-is-inunderstanding-fashion-trend-forecasting2.asp

Quotes: Rick Owens Kanye West Alexander McQueen

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Represent Clothing / Future Collection /2014

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ÂŠ 2011 - 2014 Luke Roberts Registered Issue No. 19702014111157195 Does Urban Fashion Follow And Mimic Contemporary Graphic Design Trends? dw LukeeRobertss gH Lukee-robertss@hotmail.com

A critical study designed and written By Luke Roberts