t he
P a n t book
Lundhags Skomakarna AB +46 (0)647 66 56 00 www.lundhags.se/pantguide info@lundhags.se Text: Niclas Sjögren Photo: Erik Olsson Svenn Fjeldheim (2–3) South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology/A. Ochsenreiter (10) Corbis (13) Per Stenlund (31) Translation: Bobato Communications AB Design: Lundhags/NY Print: Göteborgstryckeriet, Sweden 2013
l o ve t h e se a s o ns .
We have seen the seasons change for more than 80 years. We know that the Nordic climate puts high demands on our products. Our handmade boots have trudged through mud and snow; rocks and frozen crust have worn our pants. During winter, spring, summer, fall and everything in between. We know what works and what doesn’t. Each seam and every part has a function, and all details serve a purpose. Just like in nature. We know what it takes to experience nature – in any weather, all year round.
CONTENTS
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t h e h i s to r y o f p a n ts . 16
L u n d h a g s P a n ts . 19
3 c a te g o r i e s . a n y s e a s o n . 23
T O M A K E PA N T S . 26
Urban. A t h l e te a n d c l o u d b e r r y p i c k e r . 30
Lena. O u ts i d e e ve r y d ay – ye a r r o u n d .
CONTENTS
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C a r i n a . B e l o n g i n g to n a tu r e . 35
A n te l u n d h a g . The fourth generation. 36
w h a t d o yo u c a r r y i n yo u r p o c k e ts ? 39
O U R M AT E R I A L S . AND WHY WE CHOSE THEM. 44
S M A L L D E TA I L S . B I G D I F F E R E N C E . 48
LONGING TO GO OUTSIDE?
The stone age man Ă–tzi with the oldest pants ever found.
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the history of pants.
Obviously, there is no single inventor of mankind’s most popular garment. No one knows exactly when the first pants were made and used. It is clear, however, that pants were developed in several places on earth simultaneously – and they are still being developed. Since the end of the 1900’s, Lundhags has been a part of this development. The oldest leggings ever found are those of the mummified Stone Age man called Ötzi. In 1991, he was found as a glacier melted in Ötztal on the border between Italy and Austria. His age was determined to be 5 300 years old. However, there is evidence that pants existed among homo sapiens even earlier, namely among the nomadic tribes in Siberia. In northern Scandinavia, the native Sami people and settlers also used pants for centuries. A contributing factor to the prevalence of pants and their rise in popularity, is their functionality. In ancient Greece, the ruling elite considered pants to be a barbarous garment. They mused over Persian, Armenian and other Central Asian equestrian people who used pants. Most likely, pants were used by both men and women among these cultures, as with the Sami.
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Several researchers argue that one contributing factor to the rise of pants worldwide was the use of horses. Another example of early equestrians using pants are the Huns who, during the 400s, spread both fear and pants all over the western world. Even the samurai used pants, although the kimono was the preferred garment in Japan during the time. When Europeans introduced the horse in North America, natives still used a kilt-like garment, but naturally, they changed to pants when they began riding. The Romans took over the Greek’s skeptical attitude towards pants, but with the expansion of the Roman Empire, discovered that pants were better in colder climates. From the beginning it was only the military that used pants, but soon even civilians could be seen wearing them. During the byzantine period, until the early middle ages, more and more people dressed in long tunics that concealed their pants. Gradually, the pants worn under a tunic or robe, became more like what we would consider underwear or tights today. During the Middle Ages these leggings were often divided so that the crotch was open. Positioned here was a masking front panel. It was now that pant fashion began to take form and European society dressed themselves in knee-length pants. It was only during the French Revolution that long pants, similar to those we see today, spread to both the high and low social classes. The revolutionaries embraced the working class dress code of long trousers as a clear symbol against the aristocrat’s knee length pants. This fashion was introduced to England in the early 1800’s. From there, it appears that this
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type of pant spread throughout the world by sailors who also brought with them denim garments to destinations like North America. One man who really liked pants was Peter the Great. In 1701 he issued a decree that he hoped would help modernize Russia. One of the points declared that nobles would be required to wear pants. In the 1930s, female movie stars helped make pants popular as women’s garments. Several female Hollywood stars posed happily in pants during the 1930s and 1940s. During World War II and the postwar period, women used pants if they worked in the traditional “male professions”. But it is not until the latter part of the 1900s that pants broke through seriously as a unisex garment in an official context. The biggest obstacle and the sharpest taboo notion for women and pants was experienced in the Western world during and after the Victorian influence. Skirts or dresses were long the only option for women in social settings. When it came to work, however, there was an opportunity for women to wear pants. Women who worked on ranches in America’s “wild west” in the 1800s wore pants for riding. During World War II, it became increasingly common for women working in an industrial setting to use her husband’s pants. Perhaps some of the taboo can be traced back to the Bible and 5 Exodus 22:5 where it reads “A woman shall not wear a man’s clothes, and a man may not take on a woman’s garment: for the Lord thy God detests anyone who does so.”
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Even today there are several religious movements where women are not allowed to wear pants. Among them is the Amish movement as well as with many Orthodox Jews. Still, it can be argued that pants are simply the most transgender garment, given that it is still generally taboo for men to dress in anything but pants in the Western world. With the exception of clothing like kilts and priest robes. To find a particular era to trace the functional pants that we associate with Lundhags is a bit difficult. In fact, history’s first pants were predominantly feature-driven, and from this perspective, leggings like Ötzi’s are purely functional in design. A reasonable assumption is that the first pants were adapted for a hunter/gatherer lifestyle. Later, equestrian cultures spread and developed the concept. Since then, pant function and materials have been refined by the military, as well as clever innovators who liked being in the mountains, forests or just walking outside, in any type of weather. Just like us at Lundhags. Everywhere that pants have been developed as functional clothing, people have started with the materials they had available and adapted them to the function they sought. Today we do the same, but obviously, we have completely different technologies and the opportunity to choose our materials. However, fit as well as protection against tough weather and rough environments remain the guiding lights and the biggest challenges.
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Lundhags Pants.
When Jonas Lundhag started the business in 1932, he gained a reputation as a quality conscious and skillful cobbler. The concept of building boots according to the shell principle soon became a uniqueness for the shoemaker. At the end of the 1900s the business was expanded to also include clothing for people wanting to be outside in any weather. Back then, the slogan for this new direction was “the shoemaker’s new clothes” and behind the playful tone was a serious focus, primarily on pants, that would change both the industry as well as people’s outdoor experiences. The first model was called Lundhags Wildmark (wilderness) Pant which soon was followed by the Wildstreet Pant. Both models were stitched from a new and innovative textile of the time, a so-called polycotton fabric, which is a mixture of polyester and cotton. A similar mixture that used mostly cotton and only a small percentage of polyester had long dominated the outdoor industry. However, with Lundhags new version, which has more polyester and less cotton, plus a unique impregnation, the fabric was found to be more durable while drying faster.
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– We were looking for a fabric that would be lighter, softer and stronger. The dominant fabric back then had a drawn thread that was waxed. The fabric with this combination of polyester and cotton became lighter, softer and faster drying. Those were the big advantages over our competitors, says Jan Anders Lundhag, who co-developed Lundhags first pant styles. Lundhags’ Wildmark was a straight-cut pant with double pockets and space for knee protection. It served both as durable skating, hiking or skiing pants as well as work pants. Some basic features helped steer the design. It featured good side pockets and leg pockets that were adapted to the size of a map. In addition, there was a knife attachment on the pocket for easy access instead of on the belt, where it could be in the way of your backpack. Early on, a compartment for a mobile phone was also sewn into the leg pocket. A hook was then added to the cuffs, so that the pants could be fixed to the boots. The Wildstreet model was more an everyday pair of pants, but could also be used in the forests and mountains. The next milestone was Lundhags Professional Wilderness Pant, a precursor to the smash hit Lundhags Traverse. Here, hybrid technology began its real breakthrough, something that Lundhags has made its hallmark in advanced technical garments for all types of outdoor activities, year round. – Traverse meant breakthrough, says Jan-Anders. It was this that allowed Lundhags to begin selling pants seriously. We had really worked with the fit, for both men’s and women’s models. This differed from many of the competitors who simply sewed pants that were spacious enough to fit most people. Traverse was a pant that was cut to really fit well instead. It was unique at the time and, to some extent, still is today.
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Lundhags constantly looks for new materials to improve function. This combined with a design that produces excellentfitting pants for those who love the seasons. – We wanted to make a simple pair of pants that will actually work and that would withstand the elements, just like our boots. Boots are the center of our entire operation and pants would broaden our range, says Pär Lundhag who used to work as a product developer. Today, with up to half a million pants sold, we can safely say that this was the case. The actual technology, materials and functional details are, of course, strong arguments for choosing outdoor pants. However, it has been proven that fit is the most important factor when choosing pants. And this makes Lundhags pants unique – even today.
LUNDHAGS’ PANT HISTORY 1998 The Wildmark Pant begins Lundhags’ focus on outdoor pants and clothing. 2000 Lundhags Wildstreet Pant supplements Wildmark as a simpler leisure pant. 2003 Lundhags Professional Wilderness Pants. A pioneer in hybrid technology for outdoor clothing. They featured stretch over the knees and backside and were sewn from a fine quality cotton called Epic. Relatively expensive, but immediately a success. 2006 Lundhags Traverse Pant. The model that followed the Wilderness and consolidated Lundhags status as perhaps the leading manufacturer of excellent fitting outdoor pants. This was the pant model that put Lundhags on the map. 2013 Lundhags Authentic Pant. An organic hybrid stretch pant that points directly towards the future.
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3 categories. any season.
Designing pants for any season, any climate and any use involves a delicate dilemma. At Lundhags, we have three main paths when creating garments: hybrid, solid and waterproof. HYBRID If there is any pant construction that can be used for all outdoor experiences and activities, it is hybrid technology. By using the right materials in the right places, we can customize the functions locally on a garment. SOLID Pants sewn from Lundhags PolyCotton are versatile, durable and breathe better than pants made from denser materials. The fabric has a nice structure, which is comfortable against your skin or underwear. This category of pants age gracefully. WATERPROOF If you are really going to expose yourself to nature’s harshest conditions, you must have the best protection, a waterproof and windproof pant. With waterproof shell pants it is not your clothing that limits you. The toughest possible garment for the toughest possible conditions.
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HYBRID: AUTHENTIC An organic stretch hybrid with a normal fit and regular waist. It features LPC Eco, Schoeller速 Dynamic stretch panels and Cordura速 reinforcements. It provides you with more freedom of movement where needed: knees, back side and crotch. Reinforcements on the inside cuffs and good ventilation. Fluorocarbon-free impregnation. Authentic is available in several colors and in three different lengths.
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SOLID: BIELNE A versatile and classic trekking pant made from LPC (Lundhags PolyCotton) Eco Oxford, a strong canvas structure that is very durable. It features a relaxed fit, compartments for kneepads, as well as ventilation zippers and boot hooks.
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WATERPROOF: ROCKETEER An advanced, technical and durable pant with stretch for hardcore users. The Rocketeer is a waterproof and windproof pant with optimized materials as well as high comfort and durability. It features durable 3-layer construction with reinforced Schoeller速 Keprotec速 on the knees and ankles.
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TO MAKE PANTS.
From an idea, to pants on the shelves in a store, it takes no less than two years. – When you find the combination where fit, materials and function come together in a perfect way, then you have succeeded, says Elin Westergård, Product Manager at L undhags. A pant’s appearance is developed over a long time and in many different stages. First, the type of pants to be manufactured, the features they should have and the end user is determined. It is also important to think about how the pants should sit, and what the best fit is for its intended use. Should it be tight or spacious? High or low waist? When this is decided, you go to the drawing board to design the garment. Details and accessories are specified as they are decided, for example, which buttons and zippers are to be used. A large focus is also placed on the location of materials and the small details that increase the pants function. All information about the pant is then gathered into a “garment sketch”. The selected fabrics are dyed in the colors selected.
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Based on the garment sketch, a pattern maker creates the design pattern. A first prototype is sewn up, tested on a model and revised. Changes in the patterns and other design elements are examined and sent to the factory for a second sample. When the sample is similar to the desired garment in both its design and function, it is taken out into the field for real life testing. Tests are continually conducted on the fabrics throughout the process. When the tests are completed, there are usually some small changes to further optimize the garment. When the product is completed, sales samples are made. These are the ones that are displayed at trade fairs and purchasing meetings. After this, orders are compiled and placed. After production, the pants are delivered to retailers and customers can go into the fitting room. It is here that the Lundhags Pants must meet the most important criteria: fit. If the pants fit, both big and small adventures await, in both wet and dry conditions. – Fit is obviously the essence of the pants. The most important thing is that the pants fit correctly and comfortably. It is only later, when the pants are taken outside, that they can be judged and actually make you love the seasons, says Elin Westergürd.
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All of the pieces to an Authentic Pant.
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Urban. Athlete and cloudberry picker.
He just couldn’t do it. Urban Axelsson had cut his hair and gotten himself a real job. But as he sat there at a big Swedish industrial company doing bookkeeping, on a rather beautiful spring day in May, he realized something. “This is not me.” Without really knowing what he would do, he quit. Back then, he had a vague idea that he would enjoy working physically, outdoors and together with people. Today, Urban is practically the Swedish outdoor industry’s unofficial advisor. When it comes down to it, he still competes successfully in elite ski mountaineering. He guides groups from around the world with great skill and enthusiasm. And his real job as teacher and instructor at Mid Sweden University is in the area of Outdoor Adventure Management. Urban Axelsson likes gadgets, but is cautious about letting this interest steal time from his outdoor life.
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Urban Axelsson Born: 1966 in Lycksele, Sweden. Lives: MÜrsil, Sweden. Occupation: Wilderness guide and instructor in Outdoor Adventure Management at Mid Sweden University. Chairman of Swedish Fjälledarna. Has trained pilots from the Royal Air Force in ice knowledge. Days outdoors per year: Everyday, or at least a long lunchtime walk with the dogs. About ten weeks spent in a tent each year. Three important things: Swarovski binoculars, Lundhags Syncro boots and a knife in his belt. Favorite song: Cowgirl in the Sand (Neil Young). Favorite film: The Doors. Favorite book: Bone Games (Rob Schultheis).
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What attracts people to nature? – Well, that’s a good question. I have a huge passion to just be out there. I’ve been involved in a lot of different activities. Sometimes ice climbing, sometimes mountain biking, ski mountaineering, caving ... but basically it’s all about being outside. The reward is when you see a snow crystal, a raging river, frost on the trees, or the view from a cliff while sitting on the edge. Yes, I get sweaty palms just talking about it, he laughs.
U R BA N TRAVE RS E P RO, MODEL-YEAR 2007 An old workhorse that has been along on everything from extreme ice climbing expeditions to really long ski ascents. The best moment with them, however, was on an early August morning on the way up a mountain where there was a meadow as large as two football fields, jam-packed with perfectly ripe cloudberries. “I could hardly contain myself.”
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Lena. Outside every day – year roun d. Her two Siberian huskies and an incurable craving for experiencing nature year round, in any weather, is what allows Lena Bjelfman to be outside basically everyday. If there is no snow on the ground she pulls on her boots, otherwise it is snowshoes or skis. And it is not just for leisure that she has such close contact with nature. She has also had the opportunity to participate in the Outdoor Academy of Scandinavia together with the company that she works for. There, her outdoor company can offer customers a chance to use products in their proper element: the wilderness. Why do you like being outside? - I think it is about going back to the basics, about getting closer to our origins. When you are outside, it is just your basic needs that you have to consider. It is all about food, water, and warmth, in order to get around and decide where you are. Things become very simple. For some reason, this is when I am happiest.
LENA’S DYNAMIC, MODEL-YEAR 2002 A trusty and sustainable companion that has traveled many miles and vertical meters over the years. The only hole is from a lemming that gnawed into a pocket one night in order to access some dog treats. – But it’s no problem, I have bought some mesh material, so I’ll fix it.
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Lena Bjelfman Born: 1969 in Arvidsjaur, Sweden. Lives: Arvidsjaur, Sweden. Occupation: Production Manager and CFO at Tentipi. Days outdoors per year: If I am healthy, I’m out there every day. Three important things: Love, food and boots. Favorite song: The show must go on (Queen). Favorite film: The Rock. Favorite book: The Man Who Lived with Wolves (Shaun Ellis, Penny Junor).
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Carina.Belonging to nature. Carina Follinger became hooked on nature as a child. With her family, she experienced the sea, the mountains, skiing, skating and fishing. And these memories will never be forgotten. Even though for years, she played elite football for Älvsjö in the Allsvenskan league, she has always returned to an unregulated, open-air lifestyle. First with a ski season in the Alps, the Arctic, and later as a Nordic skating and kayak guide in the Stockholm archipelago. But, of course, with plenty of ski mountaineering in the Scandinavian mountains and hiking in the most magnificent national parks to spice things up. Carina, who is also an occupational therapist, believes that nature will have a greater therapeutic value in the future. – Being close to nature gives people energy, the energy that we need to live. What we perceive with our senses of sight, hearing, taste, touch, smell, provides us with an awareness of the present and relaxes us. Maybe so that we can be sharp when it’s really needed.
Carina Follinger Born: 1971 in Stockholm, Sweden Lives: Nynäshamn, Sweden Occupation: Guide and partner at Nynäs Kajak och Upplevelse, Occupational Therapist Days outdoors per year: Outside every day in some form with 25 tent nights per year. Three important things: Neoprene boots for winter paddling, warm sleeping bag, friends Favorite film: Django Unchained Favorite book: The Raven’s Gift (Jon Turk)
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A n te L u n d h a g Age: 7. Occupation: Student. Interests: Snowboarding, hockey, cycling, building forts, picking cloudberries, playing with the neighbor’s dogs. Three important things: Bike, boots and Lundhags pants.
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Ante Lundhag . The fourth generation. Ante Lundhag is the fourth generation of Lundhags and has shown that the apple has not fallen far from the tree. Already, Ante has been involved in more outdoor adventures than many adults. One of last year’s highlights was a combined bike and hike up to the Vattensjöarna lakes, situated in the magnificent mountain landscape between the alpine and mountain forests south of the village of Järpen. Actually, it is not far from where Ante’s great grandfather Jonas Lundhag, in 1932, started the company we know today as Lundhags. Despite his young age, Ante is already very interested in having control over his clothing and boots because every day is an adventure. And he has already been an ambitious test pilot of the new junior pants, for example. Why do you like being outside, Ante? – The air is wonderful. Not so stuffy. And it is also amazing to be able to drink water right from the streams when you’re really thirsty. A NTE’ S LU N DHAGS AUTH ENTIC JR. PANT, MODEL-YEAR 201 3 Lundhags places great demands even on its smallest pants. There is no doubt that children often expose their pants to at least as severe hardships as adults. And Ante has already figured out a few of the things that separate his pants from the rest. – They have such good pockets and also, they are really cool.
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what do you carry in your pockets? Sure, the basic purpose of pants is to shelter and protect. But the ability to also store the odd gadget is usually a valued feature. There are many variations of pockets on the pants. And many gadgets that can go inside them. We asked some industrious users what they have in their pockets.
URBAN AXELSSON – A map and compass, knife and multi-tool as well as sunscreen and a lighter. LENA BJELFMAN – Dog treats. Maybe keys or a phone. Toilet paper in the leg pocket. CARINA FOLLINGER – Headlamp, chocolate, salty licorice and a hair band. ANTE LUNDHAG – A knife is good to have in your pocket. And dried mango, which tastes really good.
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OUR MATERIALS. AND WHY WE CHOSE THEM.
If you want to make pants for any weather, you need to be careful. Not only with the manufacturing itself, but also when deciding the materials to use. Over the years, we have chosen, or not chosen, some of the finest materials, fabrics and threads available on the world market. Among other materials, we use LPC, Lundhags PolyCotton, when we want to create pants that breathe well and work in most environments. For exposure to wetter and windier environments, we use a shell material for the pants that we call waterproof. To truly customize a pant, when it comes to its end-use, we have also developed a hybrid concept. Here we adapt function depending on the materials we choose and where we place them. Along with Lundhags PolyCotton we use both stretch fabrics and waterproof sections – all tailored to the use that the pants are intended for.
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LPC, LUNDHAGS POLYCOTTON Lundhags PolyCotton is a blend of polyester and cotton. The mixture strengthens the material’s fibers and increases the garment’s life expectancy. The cotton allows the fabric to breathe very well, providing an optimal climate inside of the outer layer. LPC allows garments to work well in all conditions, except for longer exposure to heavy rain. We have concluded that the characteristics of PolyCotton are best accentuated through impregnation. We impregnate our PolyCotton fabric, as well as all our other materials without the use of fluorocarbons. Re impregnation without heating, or the mess, can easily be done by the customer. Breathability is not affected either, whether you are in the Arctic or in a damp forest. WATERPROOF If you are moving through an extremely wet environment and expose yourself to both running water and pouring rain or sleet, you will want to protect yourself with waterproof and windproof shell pants. The dense shell along with underlying layers is undoubtedly an efficient way to experience the outdoors in all weather conditions, year-round. Zethar® is Lundhags own brand, which meets our high requirements for waterproof materials with high breathability. All Zethar material is fluorocarbon-free and will withstand at least 20 000 mm of water. Minimum breathability is 10 000 g/m. HYBRID LPC, Lundhags PolyCotton, in combination with the stretch and waterproof materials, constitute the basic idea of a hybrid. With hybrid technology, we optimize materials and features and build in the function required for a specific area of t he pant. By combining PolyCotton with stretch panels, we can incorporate freedom
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of movement where it is most needed, such as in the crotch, back section and knees. In the same way, with waterproof Âs ections, protection against wet weather can be increased without sacrificing the excellent breathability properties of PolyCotton. Therefore, you get waterproofness where you need it most. Lundhags hybrid garments have two or more materials that combine to create the perfect symbiosis of breathability, stretch and waterproofness. In short: hybrid technology optimizes the garment and the result allows for more uses than with pants made from only one material.
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SMALL DETAILS. BIG DIFFERENCE.
After boots, it is the pants that have to deal with the most hardships. And at the same time, they must fulfill many functions. They must cover and protect against the rain, wind, sharp bushes and shrubs, and they must have space for all sorts of little things. A good pair of pants has all of this while being comfortable, not being too loose or tight and looking good. Our pants have it all.
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Bel t l o o p Do not forget that the belt loop is also a good place to attach a knife or your gloves when you need free hands
vent il a t io n Let out the heat for quick cooling
T high po ckets Pockets that are sized and adapted to fit a map and other gadgets that you will need for your hike
S tretch pa nel s a t stra tegic pl a ces Optimizes freedom of movement
Knee reinfo rcem ent Strong fabric on the knees increases the durability of your pants
Wa terpro o f Pa nel s Enables you to move through humid environments while staying dry
Lo wer l eg vent il a t io n Open the ventilation zipper and let the boot movement pump out heat from your feet for quick cooling
Lo wer l eg reinfo rcem ent Extra protection and durability
Bo o t-l o c A band solution in the pant cuff that adjusts tightly around the boot to avoid stuff from getting inside the pants
Bo o t-ho o k A hook in the pant cuff that attaches to the boot and holds the pant leg in place 45
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THAT L ITTL E EX TRA It is in the smart features that you can really see both the thought and attention that goes into their creation. Here are a few details that make our pants extra smart.
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1. L EG P O CK E TS An easily accessible, roomy pocket that goes unnoticed until you really need it. Adapted to be able to fit a folded mountain map, but suitable for everything from a small mushroom knife to a headlamp. 2 . HEM S Smartly designed hems, like those with our Boot-Loc system and hook, integrate the pants with the boot thereby keeping moisture and dirt out. 3 . D U R A B I L ITY One of our favorite materials is KeprotecŠ, which is made from a fiber in the same product family that includes bulletproof vests. We use KeprotecŠ to reinforce the ankle in several of our pant styles. 4 . F R EE D O M O F M OV E M ENT With stretch panels in the right places, we build in freedom of movement and increased comfort, so you can enjoy the experience instead of thinking about the pants you are wearing. 5 . BET TE R B R E ATH A B IL ITY Our LPC fabric breathes naturally, and garments where extra ventilation is needed have openings for finding the right microclimate. Mesh fabric provides a comfortable, more dressed feel.
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Longing for the outdoors? W e w i l l g l a d l y j o i n yo u .
Lundhags is often associated with the world’s best boots. Their durability is superior with a design that is both timeless and ingenious. In the same way, we create pants for every season. Since the 1930s, we have built boots according to the layering principle. Today, this principle is more relevant than ever. Therefore, this approach to a comfortable outdoor life was an obvious ambition when we began manufacturing pants in the 1990s. This little book is a loving and humble tribute to pants in general and Lundhags pants in particular. Simply because we love good pants.
l o ve t h e s e a s o n s