Lunds and Byerlys REAL FOOD Spring 2021

Lunds & Byerlys

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SPRING 2021

COMPLIMENTARY

Sweet Spring Indispensable eggs make smooth buttercream, add texture to cake and much more

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FREE

WRAP IT UP: Tortillas roll lunch or dinner into one tasty bundle ONE-PAN MEALS: Easy weeknight dinners the whole family can enjoy PLANT-BASED DISHES: Boost flavor and nutrition

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“Look Good, Feel Great with Beautiful Skin.”

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THET I C

L OF APPROVA L SEA

Olivia Crutchfield ~ daughter and patient CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY

CRUTCHFIELD DER MATOLOGY Experience counts. Quality matters.

Recognized by Physicians and Nurses as one of the best Dermatologists in Minnesota for the past twenty years.

1185 Town Centre Drive Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com

Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

contents

Features

real food spring 2021

20 Incredible Eggs The egg is indispensable—from giving cheese soufflé a lift to making creamy frosting and more

BY JASON ROSS

30 Wrap It Up Roll a delicious lunch or dinner into one tasty bundle with tortillas

BY ROBIN ASBELL

38 Food with Benefits Vegetarian and vegan recipes can

add flavor and nutrition to your plate

RECIPES BY AKHTAR NAWAB

46 One-Pan Meals Easy weeknight dinners the whole family can enjoy RECIPES BY CARLA SNYDER

52 Melissa Clark Giving kids the keys to kitchen success

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Easy ideas for ingredients you know and love RECIPES BY JAMIE OLIVER

6 Kitchen Skills Helpful kitchen hacks from prepping to preparing food TIPS FROM ANNE SHEASBY

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Plant-based meat alternatives

BY RICARDO ACOSTA

18 Healthy Habits Watching sodium intake benefits more than heart health

BY DINNEEN GRAFF

56 Pairings Delicious wine matches for vegetarian dishes

BY MARY SUBIALKA

2 real food fall 2017

ROASTED BALSAMIC CHICKEN AND RED PEPPERS WITH FRESH MOZZARELLA AND BASIL (RECIPE PAGE 35)

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Our Cover

Coconut Cake with Swiss Meringue Frosting (page 26) Photograph by Terry Brennan Food styling by Lara Miklasevics

PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN SENIOR EDITOR CUSTOM PUBLISHING CLAIRE NOACK CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITORS LIV MARTIN AND ERIK TORMOEN EDITORIAL INTERNS RICARDO ACOSTA, DINNEEN GRAFF, ABBI KIESAU AND JUSTINE SZAFRAN SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON ADVERTISING TRAFFIC MANAGER LY NGUYEN ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE JOHANNA MORIARTY

VOLUME 17, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

spring 2021 real food 3

bites

Reinventing Favorites Easy, everyday ideas for the ingredients you know and love

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hef Jamie Oliver has our number. After his popular “5 Ingredients: Quick & Easy Food” cookbook came out a few years ago, fans asked him to write another book focused on five-ingredient recipes. He has taken the number theme a step further with his new cookbook, “7 Ways,” which centers around ingredients he found we’re putting in our shopping carts week in and week out. Built around these 18 “hero” ingredients— including chicken, steak, salmon, broccoli, eggs and cauliflower—the book offers seven new ways to reinvent each with more than 120 recipes. Who couldn’t use more ideas for these favorites? As Oliver writes in the introduction, “Once again we’re keeping things simple, we’re pushing maximum flavor with minimum effort, we want fun, and we want solid, super-tasty recipes that consistently deliver.” Everyone tends to cook the same small repertoire of recipes, so he wants to help you expand on that and arm you with some new favorites. Check out the recipes here using chicken and salmon “heroes,” which just might become your new go-to dishes. The book includes the kind of food he enjoys at home with his family and hopes you will too. —Mary Subialka

4 real food spring 2021

Easy Salmon En Croute MAKES 2 SERVINGS | 55 MINUTES

Tasty spinach, baked red pesto sauce and lemon

1 onion 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 cloves garlic 1 pound frozen spinach 1 (about 11 ounce) sheet all-butter puff pastry (cold) 4 (4½-ounce) salmon fillets, skin off, pin-boned 2 large eggs 1 heaping tablespoon red pesto 1 lemon, cut into wedges, for serving

1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Peel and chop the onion and place in a large non-stick pan on medium heat with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

2. Peel, finely slice and add the garlic, then cook for 10 minutes, or until softened, stirring regularly.

Stir in the spinach, cover and cook for 5 minutes, then remove the lid and cook for another 5 minutes, or until all the liquid has cooked away.

Season to perfection.

3. Unroll the pastry and place it, still on its paper, in a baking pan. Spread over the spinach, leaving a 2-inch border all the way around. Sit the salmon fillets on top, 1/2 inch apart, then use the paper to help you fold in the pastry edges to snugly encase the salmon, leaving it exposed on the top. Beat the eggs and use some to brush the exposed pastry, then bake at the bottom of the oven for 15 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, beat the pesto into the remaining egg. When the time’s up, pull out the pan and pour the egg mixture over the salmon and into the gaps. Return to the bottom of the oven for a final 15 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the egg is just cooked through. Serve with lemon wedges, for squeezing over.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “7 WAYS” BY JAMIE OLIVER ©2020 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF FLATIRON BOOKS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEVON BISS.

My Kinda Butter Chicken MAKES 2 SERVINGS | 40 MINUTES

Fragrant spices, tomatoes, cashew butter and yogurt 2 to 3 fresh mixed-color chilies 12 ounces ripe mixed-color cherry tomatoes 4 cloves garlic 1 (2½-inch) piece fresh ginger 1 tablespoon garam masala pinch sea salt black pepper, to taste 4 heaping tablespoons plain yogurt, divided 2 (5¼-ounce) boneless skinless chicken breasts ½ tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons smooth cashew butter 1. Halve and seed the chilies. Place in a large non-stick frying pan on a high heat with the tomatoes and blacken all over, turning occasionally.

2. Meanwhile, peel the garlic and ginger, and finely grate into a large bowl. Add most of the garam masala, a pinch of sea salt and black pepper and 1 tablespoon of yogurt. Deeply score the chicken breasts at 1/2-inch intervals, then massage with the marinade.

3. Once charred, remove the tomatoes and chilies to a board, returning the pan to a medium heat with 1/2 tablespoon olive oil and the chicken. Cook and char for 10 minutes, turning halfway, while you pinch off and discard the tomato skins and roughly chop 1 to 2 of the chilies, to taste.

4. Remove the gnarly chicken from the pan and go in with the tomatoes, chopped chilies and cashew butter. Pour in 1 cup boiling kettle water and stir to pick up the sticky bits. Let it bubble vigorously for 2 minutes and once it starts to thicken, return the chicken to the pan, turning in the sauce for a final 2 minutes, or until cooked through, then remove to a board.

5. Off the heat, season the sauce to perfection, then ripple through the remaining yogurt. Slice the chicken and serve with the remaining chili and garam masala. 

spring 2021 real food 5

kitchen skills

Kitchen Hacks Make life easier with helpful tricks from prepping to preparing food

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15 AUTHOR FAVORITES Sheasby has selected some of her favorite tricks from her book to highlight how to make the most of your kitchen skills and add some zest to any meal.

AQUAFABA The liquid in a can of chickpeas (that we tend to drain off), is an ideal egg (white) substitute for vegans. It can be whisked until thick, glossy and white, and used to make things like meringues, pavlova, mousse, mayo and ice cream. Or it can be used to lighten or add moistness to baked goods such as brownies and muffins.

AVOCADO Avocado flesh makes a great and healthy alternative to dairy foods in recipes such as smoothies or smoothie bowls, dressings, dips, mayo, salads and sandwiches. It can also be used to make tasty dairy-free chocolate avocado mousse/pots.

BAKING When baking, use the wrappers from blocks of butter or hard margarine to grease cake and loaf pans.

6 real food spring 2021

BREAD Use celery salt or garlic salt instead of regular table salt when making savory bread dough to add a subtle flavor to the baked loaf.

CAKE If you are dividing cake batter between two pans, it is important to divide the mixture evenly. Weigh the filled pans to check.

CHERRIES Pit (stone) cherries inside a plastic bag to prevent the juice from splattering everywhere.

COUSCOUS For added flavor, use good-quality stock (vegetable or chicken are ideal) instead of water to cook couscous or roasted buckwheat.

DRESSINGS For a richer-flavored salad dressing, use a nut oil instead of regular olive or sunflower oil.

EXCITING ICE Make ice cubes from different colored fruit juices, then pop into children’s party drinks for extra appeal.

GINGER Try using a metal spoon to scrape the skin off of fresh ginger.

To preserve freshness, you can freeze ginger to be grated later.

HOT PANS Sturdy kitchen tiles make good trivets for hot pans. Glue a piece of felt or cork on the back to prevent the tile from scratching your work surface.

MUSHROOMS An egg slicer is a quick and easy way to slice small mushrooms (one at a time) or small cooked beets into thin, even slices.

PIZZA If you don’t have a pizza cutter, cut a baked pizza into slices with clean kitchen scissors.

STOCK To remove fat from the surface of stock, pour the stock into a pitcher and add a few ice cubes. When the fat has set around the ice, lift it off and discard.

TRUFFLES To shape chocolate truffle mixture into balls, use a melon baller dipped in hot water. Alternatively, coat your hands lightly with vegetable oil and roll the mixture between your palms.

ILLUSTRATION ІРИНА - ADOBE STOCK

ven seasoned cooks can use some helpful kitchen hacks. And as people are staying home and cooking meals from scratch more often, every little bit of advice can help. For suggestions, we turned to someone who is an expert on the subject, author Anne Sheasby. In her newest book, “How to Dice an Onion,” Sheasby’s “hacks, tips and tricks for the home cook” are a fabulous guide to the kitchen and provide valuable insight for making every dish stand out as well as sharing little tricks for all things food related. Sheasby’s advice is helpful for both beginners and seasoned chefs to ensure the process of preparing your food is both exciting and simple, from how to store and prepare vegetables to how to spice up any soup or salad dressing. — Justine Szafran

EDITORS’ PICKS Some tricks in the book that stood out to us are useful for adding exciting flavor, keeping vegetables fresh, and preparing produce as efficiently as possible.

BAKING POWDER To test the freshness of baking powder, mix 2 teaspoons with 1 cup hot tap water. If there is an immediate fizzing and foaming reaction, the baking powder can be used. If there is little or no reaction or a delayed reaction, discard the baking powder.

BONUS AUTHOR HACKS Sheasby has also generously given us some exclusive cooking tips that aren’t included in the book. Below, find some ways to make sure cooking and baking are both simple and delicious.

CHOCOLATE To prevent chocolate from melting in your hands, break a bar of chocolate into pieces while it’s still within its wrapper, then unwrap and tip it out into a bowl, pan or mixture.

in a sealed plastic bag in the fridge or freezer (it will stay crumbly and won’t clog or stick together), then spoon it out as required straight from the bag (no need to defrost it first, if frozen).

CUPCAKES A simple way to give frosted cupcakes a decorative finish is to lightly coat the edges with sugar sprinkles, grated chocolate or finely chopped, toasted nuts.

Spread your chosen coating on a flat plate, then hold a cupcake by its base and gently roll the raised frosted edge in the coating, and shake off any excess.

PESTO Combine a spoonful or two of pesto with a splash of olive oil, a little finely grated lemon or lime zest and a handful or so of fresh breadcrumbs, then spread this mixture over the top of white fish fillets before baking them to add a lovely, tasty crust to the fish.

LEFTOVER BAKED GOODS Use leftover baked cinnamon buns, brioche or croissants, broken or sliced into pieces or chunks, to make a luxury bread and butter pudding.

PARMESAN Finely grate a chunk of fresh Parmesan cheese and store

PIZZA CRUST Buy ready-made or make your own individual pizza bases, then freeze until required, for handy pizza bases whenever you need them.

SHORTBREAD Add a little finely grated lemon or orange zest, or a little freshly grated nutmeg and ground cinnamon to a basic shortbread mixture before shaping and baking to spice up the flavor a little.

MUSHROOMS An easy and effective way to clean mushrooms is to brush over them with a clean, soft toothbrush.

PASTA Do not rinse cooked pasta after draining unless it is being used in a cold dish, as rinsing will wash away the natural sticky starches that help the sauce cling to the pasta. If you are having hot pasta, drain it and serve immediately with the sauce. If serving pasta cold (such as in a salad), rinse it under cold running water to stop the cooking process and drain it well, then toss with olive oil or salad dressing to keep the pieces separate.

PICKLING If you are preparing small onions for pickling, put them in a bowl of boiling water and let sit for several minutes.

RIPENING To ripen an avocado or fruit such as a hard nectarine or peach, put it in a brown paper bag with a banana and keep at room temperature—ethylene released from the banana will hasten the ripening process.

SOUP Add a few teaspoons of pesto into hot vegetable soup before serving to add a lovely fresh flavor.

VEGAN HACK Jackfruit provides a versatile “meaty” alternative (similar to a pulled-pork texture) for vegans and vegetarians. Easy to use, ready-prepped jackfruit is widely available in cans or packs (frozen and ready-prepped fresh are sometimes available, too).

VEGETABLE FRESHNESS Keep celery and scallions (spring onions) fresh by standing them upright with the root ends in a pitcher or glass of cold water.

EDITOR’S PICKS EXCERPTED FROM “HOW TO DICE AN ONION” BY ANNE SHEASBY ©2020 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF DOG ‘N’ BONE BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL.

contributors

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis.

Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Terry Brennan is a

photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight for me—I look forward to every issue. I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Tara Q. Thomas is a lapsed

chef who trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York.

She used to enjoy going out to dinner before she had kids—now, she prefers to interview chefs, gathering intel on how to make home dinners better.

Thomas writes for several magazines, most prominently Wine & Spirits, where she is an editor and wine critic covering European wines.

She has also contributed to the “Oxford Companion to Cheese” and the “Oxford Companion to Spirits.”

She lives in Brooklyn, New York.

Jason Ross is a chef consultant word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef.

She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors.

Her latest book is “Plant-Based Meats.” She is also the author of “300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix”; “Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently, he teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

semester in Europe, and it became obvious to her then that a large portion of the world didn’t eat to live, but lived to eat. With a bachelor’s degree in journalism in hand, she began a 30-year culinary journey as a caterer, cooking school teacher, artisan baker, food writer, corporate culinary event planner, cookbook co-author and co-owner of Kitchen Counter Points cooking school in Ohio.

Akhtar Nawab is the award-

winning chef and restaurateur behind Michelin Bib Gourmand–awarded Alta Calidad and Alta Calidad Taqueria in New York, Inner Rail Food Hall in Omaha, and Otra Vez in New Orleans. He has been featured as one of StarChefs’ Rising Star chefs and on Food Network’s “Iron Chef America.” Raised in Louisville, Kentucky, Nawab currently lives in Manhattan with his daughter, Ela. 8 real food spring 2021

Carla Snyder studied for a

SNYDER DON MCNALLY

Robin Asbell spreads the

Lunds & Byerlys welcome Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Nokomis: Coming Soon!

Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000 Woodbury: 651-999-1200

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Better Together “Some things just go better together and probably always will.

Like a cup of coffee and a sunrise, Sunday drives and time to kill.”

A

s I’m reminded of in this line from country signer Luke Combs’ recent song “Better Together,” there is certainly no shortage of things any one of us could think of in our own lives that are simply better together. And I know I speak for all of us here at Lunds & Byerlys when I say we think you and us are better together.

It’s easy to say it, but our L&B family knows it’s only true if we’re upholding our end of that commitment each and every day you give us the opportunity to serve you. For us, creating a sensational shopping experience means we’re demonstrating a deep sense of care and compassion for each other and our customers. It’s also about sourcing and merchandising products both locally and from around the world to ensure we’re providing you with a broad and unique selection of high-quality offerings. And it’s about having a shared passion for food.

This year we will be shining even more of a spotlight on the many ways in which we believe you and Lunds & Byerlys are better together. We will also be further showcasing the product knowledge and expertise of our staff in the form of product recommendation signs throughout our stores.

I’m sure some of you have, at times, found yourself standing in front of the many varieties of olive oil trying to determine which one to choose. The options can seem endless and the preferred uses for each variety can likely feel overwhelming at times, given some are ideal for grilling, while others are great for sautéing and some are perfect for dipping bread.

Now imagine standing in front of the olive oils and seeing a recommendation from a trusted and familiar member of our staff that also highlights how they have used the product and why it’s one of their favorites. We will soon be adding staff recommendations in all of our stores as another way for you to make even more informed choices and hopefully make your shopping even easier. You will see our staff ’s recommendations on everything from olive oils and barbecue sauces to specialty cheeses, chocolates and more.

The same way you and your loved ones come together to enjoy great meals (when the times allow for it), Lunds & Byerlys also came together to create an even better grocery shopping experience for you. And we’ve actually found that coming together is what sets us apart. Helping you enjoy great food with great people is what we set out to do—every single meal. At Lunds & Byerlys we know, as food lovers, we’re better together.

Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663 LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys recipe box

Teriyaki Salmon and Grain Bowl MAKES 4 SERVINGS PREPARATION 7 MINUTES, COOKING 15 MINUTES

Spring Dishes

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f you’re looking for a way to give your diet a little spring cleaning, look no further! Here are some of our go-to meals that are packed with fresh veggies, lean proteins, hearty grains and bright, bold flavors that will send you right into spring.

Tahini Potatoes and Ginger Shrimp MAKES 5 SERVINGS | PREPARATION 10 MINUTES, COOKING 30 MINUTES

2 tablespoons garlic, chopped and divided ¼ cup, plus 1 tablespoon tahini, divided 1 teaspoon reduced-sodium tamari 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 pounds baby Yukon Gold potatoes, washed and quartered 1 tablespoon ginger, peeled and chopped 12 ounces raw shrimp, deveined and tails removed 2 tablespoons lemon juice 3 tablespoons Salad Girl Lemony Herb Vinaigrette 7 ounces mixed baby greens 1. Heat oven to 375°F. 2. In a medium-sized bowl, add 1 tablespoon garlic, 1/4 cup tahini, tamari and 1 tablespoon olive oil; whisk to combine. Add the potatoes and toss to coat. Spread the potatoes on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for 30 minutes, turning them over halfway through the cooking time. Let the potatoes cool to room temperature.

3. Bring a sauté pan to medium heat, then add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, the remaining tablespoon of garlic and the ginger. Arrange the shrimp flat side down in the pan and cook for 1 minute. Flip the shrimp and cook for 1 minute more. The shrimp will be pink when done. Remove the shrimp from the heat and place them in a bowl with any remaining drippings from the pan.

4. Just before serving, combine 1 tablespoon tahini and lemon juice with the vinaigrette. Place the mixed baby greens in a large bowl and drizzle the dressing over the greens. Toss gently. Divide the salad among 5 plates and place the potatoes and shrimp over the greens. Serve and enjoy!

10 real food spring 2021

1½ cups brown rice, uncooked 4 (4-ounce) skinless salmon fillets 2 tablespoons L&B Honey Ginger Teriyaki Grilling Sauce or Stonewall Kitchen Sesame Ginger Teriyaki Sauce 2 teaspoons sesame oil 1 teaspoon crushed garlic 1 long red chili, seeds removed, finely sliced 2 bunches broccolini, trimmed, stems halved 2 baby bok choy, leaves quartered lengthwise 1 tablespoon reduced-salt soy sauce 1. Cook the brown rice according to the package instructions.

2. Combine the salmon and teriyaki sauce in a shallow dish.

3. Spray a large nonstick skillet with olive oil and set it over medium-high heat. Add the salmon fillets and cook for 2 to 4 minutes on each side, or until well seared on each side and cooked throughout. Remove and cover loosely with foil to keep warm.

4. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the sesame oil, garlic, chili and broccolini. Cook for 3 minutes.

5. Add the bok choy and soy sauce, and cook for 3 minutes, or until the bok choy is tender.

6. Divide the rice into each of the 4 bowls.

Divide the broccolini and bok choy among the bowls, mounding it on top of the rice. Arrange the salmon next to the vegetables and serve immediately. 

Lunds & Byerlys meet the expert

Meet Anissa Gurstel:

Wines & Spirits Category Manager

H

ow does Anissa Gurstel, the category manager for Wines & Spirits at Lunds & Byerlys, choose what goes on our shelves? Some selections come from customer requests; some come from the interests and tastes of our talented Wines & Spirits team members; and sometimes it’s by gut feeling. “I have been in the hospitality industry for a long time, and I have always done the beverage program,” says Gurstel. “It’s a little bit of science and a little bit of guesswork.”

No matter their origin story, all the wines and spirits at our 11 metro area stores meet our brand standards: They’re high quality, locally made when possible and offer great taste for a great value—a commitment to quality that has helped customers as they make cocktails at home more than ever before.

What are customers mixing up at home? Gurstel has seen demand for comforting drinks go up this year, and she is proud to be able to help people find their familiar favorites when the world feels upside down. “I’m really excited about helping bring that comfort to customers,” she says. “I literally have the best job in the world.”

A Long History in the Hospitality Industry Gurstel got her start as a beverage expert by working at restaurants during college. “It was something I did to pay the bills, but I found myself lingering,” she says. Early in her career, she was fortunate to work with famed chef Marcus Samuelsson at the Minneapolis restaurant Aquavit (“He is so intelligent and creative,” she says) and spent a long tenure working for Richard and Larry D’Amico. “It was at D’Amico that I was very involved in the wine list, and it has been a love of mine ever since.”

This isn’t Gurstel’s first time at Lunds & Byerlys, either.

“I had the delight of working for Lunds & Byerlys when they opened L&B Kitchen, which was part restaurant and part grocery. I worked there for over three years.” She left to work for a wine wholesaler, then returned to Lunds & Byerlys in January 2020, just as the global health crisis was looming.

“I was ecstatic to be back,” she says. “I’ve had the pleasure of

not only learning a new job, but of learning when nothing is as it seemed or used to be—or perhaps ever will be again.

It has been a wild and wonderful ride.”

What’s Next in Store Gurstel is a fan of bourbon-based cocktails. “I love Old Fashioneds and Manhattans,” she says. “They are so simple to make at home, and they are comforting on so many levels.”

She maintains a steady supply of single barrel bourbons at each store. This past fall, she made room on the shelves for L&B Custom Blend Heaven’s Door Bourbon, a custom blend of six different barrels she helped choose from Bob Dylan’s distillery, Heaven’s Door.

If you’re new to drinking bourbon, tasting craft beer or appreciating wine, but you want to break out of your current beverage routine, don’t be afraid to ask. “We are really fortunate to have teams of passionate experts in our stores who can make recommendations,” says Gurstel. “We will always stock the familiar favorites, but I also want us to be known as a place where you can find something new, exciting and fresh—from new bourbons to canned cocktails to the latest trends in hard seltzers. We want to be relevant and fresh and on-trend.” 

WINE GUIDE L U N D S

&

B Y E R L Y S

PINOT GRIS (PINOT GRIGIO)

Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are the same grape variety, however, Pinot Gris tends to be richer, fuller and more mouth-filling, while Pinot Grigio is crisp and light. Pinot Gris from France can be mineral laden and crisp, while the Pinot Grigios from Oregon are more round and luxurious.

SAUVIGNON BLANC Sauvignon Blanc is dry, crisp and refreshing. It’s full of exotic fruit flavors with steely acidity. In New Zealand and the United States, this varietal is known as Sauvignon Blanc, while in France it’s called Sancerre. New Zealand wines tend to be herbal, green and bracingly crisp, while the domestic wines from Oregon tend to be full and sumptuous.

CHARDONNAY Chardonnay is made in a wide variety of styles with varying flavor profiles. Chardonnays aged in oak tend to be full, rich and creamy.

Oaked Chardonnays are full of baking spices and buttery flavors.

Unoaked Chardonnays are lean, crisp and bright – with more acidity.

Try both oaked and unoaked Chardonnays to see which you prefer!

Chablis and White Burgundies are made from the Chardonnay grape and come from France.

ROSÉ While not a varietal like the other wines, rosé is an important – and popular – style of wine. Rosé wines come in a variety of styles and flavors, ranging from dry to sweet, crisp to full. Any red-skinned grape can be made into a rosé. Look for dry, refreshing rosés from France – and Provence in particular. Rosé of Pinot Noir can be elegant and charming, especially the options from Oregon.

PINOT NOIR Pinot Noir is usually medium-bodied with notes of red cherries, raspberries, earth and spices. Pinot Noir comes from California, Oregon and France – and all three areas grow vastly different styles. California Pinot Noirs tend to be richer, fruitier and more full-bodied. Pinot Noirs from France – also known as Burgundies – tend to be lighter, drier and have higher acidity. Oregon Pinot Noirs are well balanced between the French and California options.

RED BLENDS While not a varietal, red blends have exploded in popularity in recent years. Some red blends are bold and rich (like New World California blends), while others are leaner and drier (like Old World European blends). Red blends allow winemakers to essentially design a wine by blending grapes to create different flavors. Try a bottle of traditional European Bordeaux next to a California red blend to discover your preference.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON Cabernet grapes are grown all over the world. You’ll see Cabernets from Bordeaux, France, Italy, Argentina, Chile, Australia and California.

Cabernets have highly focused flavors ranging from black fruits to baking spices to woodsy notes. They are often full-bodied and weighty and show spicy or smoky flavors. To find a style and region you prefer, try Cabernets from two different regions side-by-side and keep track of what you like – or don’t like! When shopping for wine, it can be as important to describe what you don’t enjoy in a wine as much as what you do.

ZINFANDEL Often considered a California grape, Zinfandel is also widely grown in Italy and is called Primitivo. In the mid-1990s it was discovered that Zinfandel shares DNA with a grape from Croatia, leading most to believe it was likely imported to the United States in the early 1800s.

Zinfandel is fruit-driven with notes of black and red fruits that are mouth-coating and bold. It’s often described as smoky and spicy and can even veer toward jammy. Try Zinfandels from different regions within California or compare a California Zin with a Primitivo from Italy.

Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

CALIFORNIA OLIVE RANCH KETO AND BAKING BLEND OILS For over 20 years, California Olive Ranch has been creating delicious extra virgin olive oil at an affordable price. Now they’ve added keto and baking blends to their lineup.

The keto-certified blends combine extra virgin olive oil with avocado or walnut oil, which results in mild-flavored, versatile oils that are great for daily cooking. The baking blends combine extra virgin olive oil with natural vanilla flavor or almond oil to create heart-healthy alternatives to butter or vegetable oil in all your favorite baking projects.

Did you know? There’s no need to sacrifice health for indulgence! The California Olive Ranch Baking Blends offer a great flavor boost while providing the added benefits of antioxidants. Plus, the vanilla baking blend can be used to replace the butter or oil and vanilla extract in a recipe.

HERO NECTARS Originally founded in Switzerland in 1886, Hero—a family-owned company—has continued to carry on the tradition of making the best possible products with natural ingredients. Hero combines carefully selected fruit with water and just a touch of sugar to create their intense, flavorful nectars. Each bottle is made without high-fructose corn syrup or artificial flavors so you know exactly what’s inside. Flavors include apricot, guava, mango, peach and pear.

Tip: Hero Nectars are outstanding on their own but are equally delicious when mixed into cocktails, smoothies or mocktails.

FOLLY COFFEE HOT SAUCE Folly Coffee Hot Sauce began as a weekend experiment between two friends— Rob, a coffee nerd and founder of Folly Coffee, and Kevin, a chef. This experiment led to a one-of-a-kind hot sauce made with a proprietary blend of 100 percent organic spices, smoky peppers, spicy habanero and brewed Folly Coffee.

It’s smoky, slightly sweet and tangy with enough spice to enhance, but not overpower, the flavor. Coffee adds complexity to balance the sauce, rounding out its unique profile. Try it on eggs, grilled cheese or anything else that needs a kick!

Did you know? Folly Coffee is locally owned and operated in Minneapolis. Its coffees have been recognized and awarded on both a local and national scale—and now you can taste the award-winning coffee in the new Folly Coffee Hot Sauce!

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

TATTERSALL COCKTAIL MIXERS Located in Northeast Minneapolis, Tattersall Distilling is known for its handcrafted specialty spirits. And now we’ve partnered with them to create bold, flavorful cocktail mixers available exclusively at Lunds & Byerlys. Simply combine the mixer with your Tattersall spirit of choice for a refreshing cocktail in seconds. Look for these ready-to-serve mixers in the deli at your Lunds & Byerlys store.

Tip: Looking for a little kick?

Give the habanero cucumber southside a try with gin or vodka.

It’s citrusy and minty with just a hint of spice. Or pair the apple gold rush—a perfect blend of honey, ginger, spice and apple—with rye or gin. That’s not your jam? The strawberry pineapple smash is tropical and bright! It's a fusion of strawberry, pineapple, citrus and vanilla notes. Pair it with vodka or gin.

MAESTRO MASSIMO WAFER CUBETTI Maestro Massimo combines the traditional tastes of Italy with the passion of genuine foodies and dessert lovers. The wafer cubetti are made from exclusive Italian recipes using high quality ingredients and no artificial colors, preservatives or highfructose corn syrup. Each cubetti contains light, crisp wafers and a cream filling that results in a sweet, airy treat. Flavors include chocolate, lemon and hazelnut.

L&B CINNAMON SWIRL BRIOCHE BREAD Created by our Lunds & Byerlys bakers using our exclusive recipe, the new L&B Cinnamon Swirl Brioche Bread is a sweet breakfast bread enriched with eggs and a thick cinnamon swirl throughout.

The soft, buttery bread is baked to a golden-brown finish and makes the perfect addition to your breakfast table.

It’s outstanding toasted and slathered with butter, nut butter or jam, and pairs perfectly with coffee or tea.

Tip: Use our L&B Cinnamon Swirl Brioche Bread to level up your favorite dishes, too!

The decadent bread shines in French toast and elevates bread pudding.

Tip: There’s no wrong time to enjoy a treat! Whether it’s with your morning coffee, afternoon tea or a sweet treat after dinner, Maestro Massimo wafer cubetti are the perfect little indulgence.

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MEDIUM RARE

WELL DONE

BETTER TOGETHER.

Delicious meals pair perfectly with life’s beautiful moments. No matter the occasion, Lunds & Byerlys provides the very best ingredients and expertise to help make it special.

Plan a menu around our premium beef cuts or ready-to-grill marinated options.

High-quality food and your personal touch are always Better Together.

Find creative inspiration and simple solutions at lundsandbyerlys.com/bettertogether

ingredient

From Meat to Plants: America’s New Diet Plant-based meats are sowing the seeds for a new future in cooking

BY RICARDO ACOSTA

A

PHOTOS COURTESY BEYOND MEAT

mericans are among the top consumers of meat in the world, so what’s making them eat plants instead?

A Gallup survey showed that in the past year, 23 percent of Americans have been cutting back on eating meat. There are many different approaches to cutting back on meat, but one way is by trying plant-based meat options.

Out of a growing number of meat alternatives, Beyond Meat is a popular choice. The brand creates completely plant-based meat without the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), soy or gluten. Products range from vegan breakfast sausages and meatballs to the Beyond Burger and Beyond Beef (plantbased “ground beef”). Per every 4-ounce serving, Beyond Beef contains 20 grams of plant protein from peas, mung beans and rice, and has 6 grams of saturated fat. (As comparison, a 4-ounce serving of 85 percent lean ground beef has 21 grams of protein and 6 grams of saturated fat.) Beyond Beef also includes cocoa butter, coconut oil and canola oil, giving the beef a similar taste and look to ground beef. It is possible to use Beyond Beef in just about any recipe that calls for regular beef, whether it’s tacos, chili or even burgers. Speaking of burgers, the Beyond brand is not the only one to inspire a new generation of meat on the market.

The Impossible Burger patty, which is available at Burger King and in stores, is made from a blend of soy and potato proteins.

This burger is able to emulate that sizzle we all love to hear on a grill from the coconut and sunflower oils that layer its surface.

But, for that meaty flavor of the burger, the Impossible brand uses an ingredient called heme, an iron-containing compound that can be found in all living organisms. Like Beyond Beef, Impossible meat can be made into just about any dish requiring beef, such as spaghetti, burritos or dumplings. Though, of course, if you’re planning on making the Impossible Burger, then grilling it is the way to go.

Another alternative is seitan (“say-tan”), which is primarily made out of hydrated gluten—the main ingredient found in wheat. Because of this, it is sometimes called “wheat meat,” or wheat protein. Unlike the other two products featured here, it is possible and far easier to make homemade if you don’t feel like buying it pre-made. Seitan is made by mixing, kneading and soaking wheat flour together to make strands of gluten protein and to wash away the starch. This leaves you with some wheat meat that is high in protein but low in carbohydrates.

At the store, look for brands like Upton’s Naturals, Sweet Earth or Lightlife. Seitan is a lot like tofu in the way that it is incredibly versatile in how it absorbs and adapts to different flavors.

Its versatility means there is a plethora of recipes and ways to cook it, whether it is by grilling, stir-frying or even a quick panfry. It is recommended, though, that you do not rely purely on seitan to meet protein requirements as it does not contain all the essential amino acids found in animal protein.

It’s clear that plant-based meats are easy (and tasty) alternatives to animal products. They can be a better choice for your health, too. A meat intensive diet has been shown to increase the chances of developing cardiovascular disease. Meanwhile, plant products have generally been found to improve upon several of these risk factors, making heart problems less likely.

Additionally, a 3.5-ounce serving of lean ground beef is comparable to 4 ounces of the Impossible Burger based on nutrients that each provides, so you don’t have to worry about getting enough protein. While America may currently be one of the leaders when it comes to eating meat, a plant-based wave is working to lower the score. 

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healthy habits

The Skinny on Sodium

Watching your sodium intake benefits more than your heart health

BY DINNEEN GRAFF

Salt vs Sodium Two terms often used interchangeably—salt and sodium—aren’t exactly the same thing. Sodium is what’s found in food and our bodies. Salt is what we add to our food. Sodium is an essential mineral that the body does need in small amounts—about 500 mg per day—to maintain a proper balance of water and minerals.

Table salt, on the other hand, is a combination of 40 percent sodium and 60 percent chloride. Most of the sodium we consume comes in this form, as the CDC estimates that processed foods and restaurant meals account for nearly 70 percent of the sodium consumed by Americans. Some foods have naturally occurring sodium including, for example celery (88 mg per cup), beets (106 mg per cup) and milk (which ranges from 107 mg in 1% and 125 mg in 2% to 128 mg in skim per 1 cup serving).

Sodium and the Body Keeping sodium levels in check is important for both heart health and whole-body health. “Reducing intake of dietary sodium is one nonpharmacological intervention to prevent and treat high blood pressure and is one of many recommendations of a heart-healthy diet, along with eating a diet rich in fruits, vegetables and whole grains, and minimizing consumption of trans fats, red meats, saturated fats and added sugars,” says Sueling Schardin, an American Heart Association dietitian.

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For those with high blood pressure, excess sodium puts a significant strain on the heart and blood vessels, increasing the chances of developing heart disease or suffering from a stroke.

Even for people who don’t have high blood pressure, less sodium will blunt the rise in blood pressure that happens with aging and will also reduce the risk of developing other conditions, such as kidney disease, associated with eating too much sodium.

Reducing sodium intake lowers the risk of developing kidney stones. The kidneys play a vital role in filtering out waste substances from the blood and keeping a consistent level of essential vitamins and minerals throughout the body. As one of these essential minerals, too much sodium in your diet increases the amount of calcium your kidneys must filter and significantly increases your risk of kidney stones. Excess sodium levels may also result in water retention causing puffiness, bloating and weight gain.

We have all felt the extra thirst that comes after eating something salty. Dehydration is also a result of the elevated sodium levels in the bloodstream, which the kidneys counteract by filtering out extra sodium through the urine. However, in this process, stored calcium is excreted as well. When the body experiences lowered levels of calcium over time, this can lead to thin bones and increase the risk of developing osteoporosis.

The Salty 6 Schardin recommends patients reduce their sodium intake by avoiding prepackaged, processed and prepared foods, which tend to be high in sodium. Schardin also recommends to watch out for the ‘Salty 6,’ the top six common foods that add the most salt to your diet. These Salty 6 foods include breads and rolls, cold cuts and cured meats, pizza, poultry, soup and sandwiches.

SHAKER SVETA - ADOBE STOCK

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ou have probably heard that most people could benefit from cutting back on sodium in their diet. In fact, most Americans consume an average of 3,400 mg per day, which is more than double the ideal 1,500 mg daily recommendation by the American Heart Association. To put that into perspective, a single teaspoon of table salt contains about 2,300 mg of sodium. Sodium has a way of sneaking into our diets, but luckily there are ways that you can be more conscientious and shake the habit.

One slice of bread can contain anywhere from 80 to 230 mg of sodium, and a slice of frozen pizza can contain anywhere between 370 and 730 mg. Other foods that have been known to be sources of “hidden” sodium include cheeses, condiments, pickles, olives and sauces.

Tips on Cutting Back

Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

SALT LISA - ADOBE STOCK

WHICH SALT TO CHOOSE? Between table salt, kosher salt, sea salt and Himalayan pink salt, each one offers a slightly different texture and flavor. Generally, larger granules like Himalayan pink salt and sea salt don’t dissolve as easily when used in cooking recipes and offer much more flavor so you can use less.

Kosher and table salt are best used in baking recipes and offer slightly less flavor. In terms of interchangeability, sea salt and table salt can usually be substituted for each other when the grain size is similar. Table salt tends to have a more concentrated, saltier flavor than kosher salt, so the substitution is 1 teaspoon of table salt for about 1½ to 2 teaspoons of kosher salt, depending on the brand.

Szechuan Chicken Stir-fry MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN HEART ASSOCIATION

This Simple Cooking with Heart recipe will get you to put that Chinese take-out menu back in the drawer. You won’t believe how easy this is to make at home and how great it tastes, too.

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts or tenderloins (can substitute lean pork or beef), all visible fat discarded, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon jarred, minced garlic 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 16 ounces frozen, packaged stir-fry vegetables 1/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons chopped, unsalted, unoiled peanuts 1½ cups brown rice (cooked to package instructions) 1. Spray a medium skillet with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, toss chicken, cornstarch, soy sauce, ginger, garlic and red pepper flakes.

2. Add chicken mixture and cook over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, until chicken is no longer pink.

3. Add vegetables and broth to skillet, reduce heat to medium, cover and cook 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Top with peanuts and serve over cooked brown rice.

NUTRITION

Think no salt equals no taste? Think again. Instead of flavoring food with salt, try flavoring your recipes with herbs, spices, lemon, lime, vinegar or salt-free seasoning blends. In the grocery store, look for fresh poultry, fish and lean meat, rather than canned, smoked or processed types. Schardin recommends getting into the habit of reading food labels and aiming for products that are under 140 mg of sodium per serving. When cooking, opting for dried peas or beans allows you to control how much salt you put in your dish. If you do use canned varieties, always drain and rinse to help wash away a little sodium.

By making small changes, cutting back on sodium doesn’t have to be daunting. Daily changes add up when you practice making healthy swaps and become more mindful of ingredient lists; your heart, kidneys and bones will thank you. 

SZECHUAN CHICKEN STIR-FRY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 455; FAT 7g (sat. 2g); SODIUM 256mg; CARB 64g; FIBER 7g; SUGAR 4g; PROTEIN 34g

spring 2021 real food 19

Incredible Eggs From giving cheese soufflé a lift to making creamy frosting and more, eggs are indispensable

BY JASON ROSS

E

ggs are the most useful and indispensable ingredient in cooking. What else could raise a soufflé and emulsify a sauce such as mayonnaise or aioli?

Eggs make ice cream smooth and creamy. They can whip up a base for buttercream frosting, inflate a pastry for cream puffs, and as you will see here, are used to make a dough that can create both éclairs and pasta dumplings. Think of all the different preparations of eggs, from poached to fried, and the varieties of omelets, including a baked Spanish omelet rich with potatoes and melting cheese known as a tortilla, or oyakodon, a Japanese poached egg rice bowl featured here. These and more egg-centered recipes highlight the ingredient’s strengths, and I include some do’s and don’ts to make the most of working with the incredible egg.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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CLASSIC CHEESE SOUFFLÉ (RECIPE PAGE 32)

spring 2021 real food 21

Parisian Gnocchi with Zucchini MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Maybe you have tried potato gnocchi, the Italian potato dumpling-like pasta served with a variety of sauces. Parisian gnocchi are similar, although a bit lighter, and utilize another egg powerhouse preparation, called pâte à choux. Pâte à choux is made by beating eggs into a warm dough. It is simple enough, but an amazingly versatile product.

Bake it and you get éclairs or cream puffs. Fry it and you get doughnuts or Mexican churros. And in this case, poach it and sauté it and you get crunchy, tender dumplings called Parisian gnocchi. ¾ cup shredded Swiss, Gruyère or Gouda 1 cup water 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter 3 eggs 2 tablespoons olive oil plus some to ½ teaspoon salt plus a pinch drizzle on poached gnocchi to cook zucchini 1 zucchini, sliced into ¼-inch half moons 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ¼ cup grated Parmesan (optional) ¼ cup minced green onion

1. In a medium sized pot bring the 1 cup water, butter and ½ teaspoon salt to a rapid boil. Lower the heat to medium and add the flour all at once, stirring with a wooden spoon for 3 to 5 minutes. The dough will become firm and smooth and pull away from the sides of the pan, leaving a film on the bottom of the pan.

2. Add the warm dough to a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment—or use a medium mixing bowl and a wooden spoon, although a mixer is much easier. Beat in the mustard, green onion and cheese, and work until smooth and cooled slightly, about 1 minute.

3. Add the eggs, one at a time. With the addition of each egg, the dough will go slack and break apart but will become smooth and glossy as you beat the dough. The consistency of the dough should be firm enough to form a loose peak but not so stiff that it would be hard to squeeze through a piping bag. A dollop of the dough should hold its shape for a few seconds but slowly start to lose its form.

4. Put the dough in a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch flat tip, or simply fill a zip-top plastic bag and snip off a ½-inch hole in the corner.

5. Bring a large pot filled with about 3 inches of water to a gentle simmer. Place the piping bag over the boiling water and gently squeeze out some dough. Use a butter knife to lop off short sections of dough, about 1 inch long each. Keep piping and cutting off pieces until the bottom of the pot has filled with pieces of cut dough or gnocchi.

6. After a few minutes, the gnocchi will rise to the surface. Cook them for another 2 to 3 minutes, and then, using a slotted spoon, remove the gnocchi to a baking sheet or platter. Drizzle them with a little olive oil so they do not stick. Continue cooking the rest of dough in the hot water until all the dough is cooked.

7. At this point, the gnocchi can be cooled and stored in a container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 6 months.

8. To serve on the same day, allow the gnocchi to cool and become a bit firm. Then heat a large frying pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil (half the oil) on medium-high heat.

When the oil heats and ripples, add enough gnocchi to fill the bottom of the pan in a single layer, but do not pile them up. It is important for the gnocchi to touch the hot pan to brown. Stir and roll the gnocchi in the hot oil, cooking and browning them for about 5 minutes. Remove the gnocchi to a plate and cook the rest of the gnocchi in the same way with the remaining olive oil.

9. Using the residual oil in the pan from the gnocchi, cook the zucchini and garlic in the pan on medium heat, for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until slightly softened, but not browned. When the zucchini and garlic are done, put the browned gnocchi back in the pan and gently toss together.

10. Sprinkle on Parmesan cheese if you like it and serve immediately.

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PARISIAN GNOCCHI WITH ZUCCHINI

EGG DO’S AND DON’TS Besides being tasty and nutritious, eggs have two strengths that are useful to us as cooks. First, eggs hold air well; second, they can emulsify or mix two substances together that would otherwise separate. Whipped egg whites, or meringue, are used to incorporate air into foods, and egg yolks are used to emulsify and thicken recipes. Here are some tips for adding these two tools to your repertoire: • Do not let any egg yolks get into the egg whites used for meringues. Even a small amount of fat can inhibit the egg whites from foaming and forming meringue. Likewise, make sure bowls and whisks are clean and free of any residual grease or fat.

• Room temperature egg whites whip more easily.

• A little acid helps egg whites whip and makes them more stable.

You can use a few drops of lemon juice, but cream of tartar is best, which adds acid without any additional liquid.

• Do not overbeat meringues.

Think of the bubbles in the egg whites as little balloons; if you whip them too full of air, they become fragile and may pop, giving you a broken meringue.

• Use a mixer for whipping egg whites. Egg whites take longer to whip than whipped cream, so while mixing by hand is doable, it takes some effort.

• As you make an emulsion, like mayonnaise, it is important to add oil slowly and whisk until all droplets are dispersed. If any are left unmixed, they will start to pool and the sauce could break.

• Use a few drops of water to help prevent emulsions from breaking.

As fat is added, do not let the sauce become too thick and rich with oil; the oil droplets will adhere to each other and the sauce will break.

Adding a few drops of water before this happens will give the oil droplets room to spread out and prevent sauces from breaking.

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OYAKODON

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Oyakodon

Classic Cheese Soufflé

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Oyakodon is a popular Japanese egg bowl. Think of it as a floating omelet cooked in a flavorful soy broth, served over steaming bowls of rice. It’s soft, savory and comforting, with chunks of cooked chicken breast and sliced onions. The trick is to have about ½ inch of broth on the bottom of the pan, enough so the eggs do not stick, but not so much that the broth drowns the rice. This recipe makes one batch to be shared, but if you have a small lidded frying pan—and the time and patience—you could make four small batches, one for each serving.

“Soufflé” sounds so exotic and exciting, and it is, but there is no need to fear making one. It’s just a baked egg dish with the whites whipped and airy, like a lightened omelet. This is another example of the wonderful power and versatility of eggs.

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or 2 teaspoons hondashi powder, if available ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup mirin sweet rice wine ¼ cup sugar 1½ cups (¼-inch sliced) onions 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, cut into ½-inch slices across the width 4 green onions, green and white parts, sliced thinly 4 eggs lightly scrambled with a fork or chopsticks 4 cups cooked (unsalted) white rice, served in 4 individual bowls

1. Put chicken broth in a medium frying pan, about 8 inches in diameter (If using hondashi powder, dissolve powder and 2 cups water). Add soy sauce, mirin and sugar. Bring to a vigorous boil and stir until hondashi powder (if using) and sugar are dissolved.

2. Add the onions and lower heat to medium and cook for about 1 minute, until they just begin to soften.

3. Add the chicken and spread chicken and onions evenly to cover the width of the pan. Simmer gently for 5 to 6 minutes, until it is almost, but not quite fully cooked.

4. Sprinkle half of the sliced green onions over the chicken, saving the rest for garnish, and pour the eggs around the pan, evenly covering all the chicken. Cover with a lid and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until the eggs are steamed and cooked through.

5. Use a serving spoon to break up portions of oyakodon omelet. Be careful to cut nice pieces and not break the omelet too much into little chunks as you spoon it over bowls of hot rice.

Add a little broth from the pan to each bowl and garnish with the remaining sliced green onions.

Serve immediately piping hot.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided ¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese or breadcrumbs ¼ cup flour 1½ cups whole milk 1 cup grated Gruyère, Gouda, cheddar or any semi-firm cheese 6 egg yolks few grinds black pepper 1 teaspoon salt 6 egg whites pinch cream of tartar (optional)

1. Heat oven to 375°F. 2. With 1/2 tablespoon butter, coat the inside of a 32-ounce soufflé mold or 6 to 8 individual soufflé dishes, and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese or breadcrumbs.

(See Cook’s Notes.)

3. In a small pot, melt 21/2 tablespoons butter on medium heat. Whisk in all the flour at once and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, whisking constantly.

4. Pour 1/3 of the milk into the pot and whisk vigorously until smooth. Continue with another 1/3 of the milk in two more rounds until all the milk is incorporated and smooth. Bring to a simmer, stirring frequently to avoid scorching and cook 2 to 3 minutes. This mixture is a thick version of white sauce or béchamel.

5. Vigorously whisk in the cheese. When all the cheese has melted, turn off the heat, and whisk in egg yolks, salt and pepper. Set aside. (Get ready to work quickly; once you start whipping the egg whites, it is important to have everything in place. After you make your soufflé mixture it will begin to lose volume as the air bubbles in the meringue deflate.)

6. Use a hand mixer (you can mix by hand, but be ready for a workout) and a deep bowl, and whisk the egg whites (and cream of tartar, if you have it) on high speed until they have nearly firm peaks. The peaks should still just barely fold over, as you pull the mixer blades out of the mixture.

7. Use a rubber spatula to mix 1/3 of the whipped egg whites into the cheese mixture (this is called tempering). With the spatula, fold the cheese mixture back into the remaining whipped egg whites in the bowl. To fold, gently cut down into the mixture and fold it over itself. Rotate the bowl and repeat until well combined.

8. Immediately spoon the soufflé mixture into the prepared dish(es). Fill to about ½ inch from the top of the dish, leaving room for the soufflé to rise. Place soufflé(s) on a sheet tray and bake in the oven, undisturbed for 40 minutes for one large dish or 10 to 12 minutes for individual dishes.

9. Check for doneness by shaking the pan and looking for firm centers that do not jiggle or appear wet. Soufflés should rise to an inch above the rim of the dish. If needed, cook for 5 more minutes. Remove the tray from the oven and serve soufflé immediately; it will begin deflating as it cools.

Cook’s Notes: • If you don’t have soufflé molds, use ramekins or any straight-sided casserole, heat-resistant ceramic dish, or even coffee cups.

• Preparing the molds with breadcrumbs or Parmesan cheese gives the soufflé something to cling to as it rises—or it’s likely to collapse down the sides of the dish.

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Coconut Cake with Swiss Meringue Frosting

Swiss Meringue Buttercream

MAKES 2 10-INCH CAKES, 16 SERVINGS

Buttercream can be made with different bases. The French version uses egg yolks whipped with boiled syrup. Italian uses egg whites whipped with boiled syrup. And Swiss, the gentler and more versatile cousin, uses a warmed egg white meringue for the vanilla-scented icing. It’s stable, spreadable and simple to work with.

For dessert, eggs are used for everything from cake to a gently cooked Swiss meringue. Toasty coconut and layers of cake make a lovely springtime treat. Coconut milk instead of cow’s milk in the cake adds tasty, toasty flavor.

For the Coconut Topping 2¾ cups sweetened coconut flakes (half a 14-ounce bag) For the Cake 2 cups sugar 2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 3 eggs 3¼ cups all-purpose flour 3¼ teaspoons baking powder ¾ teaspoon salt 1½ cups coconut milk

1. Toast the coconut: Heat the oven to 375°F. Spread the coconut into an even layer on a sheet tray and toast for 5 minutes in the oven. Remove the tray and stir the coconut with a wooden spoon. Jiggle the pan to spread coconut into an even layer again, and toast for another 5 minutes. Repeat until the coconut is light brown and fragrant. Set aside.

2. Reduce oven to 350°F. Lightly grease and flour two 10-inch round cake pans and line with a circle of parchment paper.

3. Using a mixer with the paddle attachment (hand mixer or counter-top is also fine) beat the sugar and butter on medium-low speed for about 8 to 10 minutes or until light and fluffy. With a rubber spatula, scrape the bowl and the paddle to make sure all the sugar and butter are fully combined.

4. Add the vanilla and eggs one at a time and mix on low until fully incorporated.

5. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt.

6. Add 1/3 of the dry mixture to the wet ingredients and mix on low until just blended. Add 1/3 of the coconut milk and mix on low until just blended. Scrape the bowl and the paddles with a rubber spatula, making sure cake batter is fully incorporated as needed. Continue adding dry mixture and coconut milk, alternating, until all the ingredients are incorporated.

7. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pans. Tap or jiggle the pan gently to get the batter to lay flat and even. Put cake pans on sheet tray and bake in oven for about 30 minutes or until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the middle of the cake pulls clean with no wet batter.

8. Cool the cakes in the pan until set, about 40 minutes, then invert cakes onto a wire rack and remove parchment paper.

The cake can be wrapped and stored in the refrigerator for up to 7 days or in the freezer for 3 to 4 months.

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MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS (ENOUGH TO FROST 1 2-LAYER CAKE)

6 egg whites 5 sticks unsalted butter, 1¾ cups sugar softened ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Bring a wide pot filled with a couple inches water to boil. Then, reduce heat to very low, enough to keep water hot but not bubbling.

2. Put egg whites, sugar and cream of tartar in a stainless steel bowl that will fit on top of pot with hot water. Whisk the egg whites with a wire whisk over the hot water until they are warmed through, about 120°F. This should take about 10 minutes. If you do not have a thermometer, taste a small spoonful; it should be warm, or put a dollop on your wrist or upper lip for the temperature check.

3. Use a mixer with whisk attachment (hand mixer or counter-top is fine) and whip at high speed until the meringue is white and fluffy, forms stiff peaks, and is cooled. The side of bowl will feel cool.

4. With the mixer still running, add the softened butter by the spoonful, allowing butter to incorporate with each addition.

Continue until all the butter is used and the mixture is light and fluffy. Finish by beating in the vanilla.

5. Butter cream can be used immediately or stored in a zip-top bag or container in the refrigerator for 7 days, or in freezer for 3 to 4 months. If refrigerated or frozen, the buttercream will need to soften until it is at room temperature, and then be re-whipped until smooth.

Cake Assembly 1. Use a long serrated knife to trim off any rounded tops on the cakes and brush off any stray cake crumbs.

2. Place one cooled cake on a revolving cake stand if you have one, or use a plate. With an offset spatula or cake spatula, spread 1 cup of buttercream across the top of cake from edge to edge and just past the edge of cake. Put the next layer of cake on top of the frosted cake and repeat, spreading 1 cup of buttercream across the top, and just a little bit past the edges. Next, spread the extra buttercream that went past the edges, adding a little more as needed around the sides of the cake to make a thin coating. Do not worry if some crumbs make a messy coat, this is called the crumb coat, and will be covered with a fresh coating of buttercream. Refrigerate the cake until the buttercream is firm, about 15 minutes.

3. Use the rest of the buttercream to cover the crumb-coated sides and another thin layer on top. While the buttercream is still damp and sticky, sprinkle and coat tops and sides with toasted coconut.

4. Serve immediately, or the cake can be stored at room temperature in a cake box for up to 3 days but does not refrigerate well.

COCONUT CAKE WITH SWISS MERINGUE FROSTING

BETTER BUTTERCREAM It is a common mistake to make a buttercream that ends up either too stiff or too runny, and it might even seem ruined—but the good news is that buttercream is simple to fix if you run into problems. If the buttercream is loose and soupy, it has gotten too hot. Put the mixing bowl in the refrigerator until the outside edges of the buttercream have gotten firm, like refrigerated butter.

This should take around 10 to 15 minutes. Then re-whip on high speed and the buttercream will firm up into a smooth, spreadable consistency. If the buttercream looks curdled or grainy, it has gotten too cold. Put the mixing bowl back over the hot water and stir until the edges of the buttercream start to melt around the edges. Then re-whip. The cold buttercream will soften and smooth as it whips with the melted butter.

spring 2021 real food 27

SPANISH TORTILLA WITH POTATO, SPINACH AND CHEESE AND GARLIC AIOLI

28 real food spring 2021

Spanish Tortilla with Potato, Spinach and Cheese

Garlic Aioli

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 1 CUP

Though the Spanish tortilla shares a name with the popular Mexican thin flatbread, it is actually more like a frittata or egg bake than a traditional tortilla. The classic Spanish tortilla is a type of omelet made with potatoes and onions, and is most often served at room temperature with garlic aioli as a dipping sauce. This recipe adds spinach and melted cheese. Spanish chorizo could be added, too, for a little more flavor and spice if you wish.

1 pound (about 4 medium sized) potatoes (Yukon gold or russet) 1 teaspoon salt, plus a pinch for boiling potatoes 8 eggs few grinds black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup (¼-inch sliced) onions 1 cup frozen spinach, defrosted ½ cup grated semi-firm cheese, such as Spanish Mahon, cheddar, Gruyère or Gouda ½ cup aioli (recipe right)

1. Heat oven to 425°F. 2. Peel and dice the potatoes into ½-inch dice. Bring a medium pot of water with a pinch of salt to a boil and add the potatoes. Cook for about 8 to 10 minutes until the potatoes are tender but still holding their shape—it’s better to leave slightly firm than to overcook and turn mushy.

3. Use a colander to strain the potatoes and lay them on a plate to cool slightly.

4. In a medium bowl use a fork to vigorously scramble the eggs, adding 1 teaspoon salt and some ground black pepper to taste.

5. Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet on medium heat and add the olive oil.

6. Add the potatoes and onions to the hot oil and gently stir to coat without breaking up the diced potatoes. Add the spinach and evenly disperse around the pan.

7. Pour the eggs over the pan and immediately sprinkle cheese over the eggs. Use a spatula to push some of the cheese below the surface of the liquid eggs without disturbing the contents of the pan too much. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottom of the tortilla is set.

8. Use a rubber spatula to carefully lift the edges and peek at the underside. When the tortilla is starting to brown, slip the pan into the oven and cook for 12 to 15 minutes.

9. Check the tortilla by pushing the center with a spatula and look for uncooked egg seeping out of the tortilla. Cook for a few more minutes, if needed, until firm and solid, without any liquid eggs in the center.

10. Let the tortilla cool for at least 15 minutes. Then place a plate on top of the pan and flip the pan over, placing the tortilla on the plate with the browned side served facing up, like an upside-down cake. Serve warm, room temperature or even fully chilled. The tortilla can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 3 days. To serve, cut into slices garnished with a few spoonfuls of aioli ladled over each slice.

2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon water ½ cup olive oil ½ cup light oil, such as canola, vegetable or grapeseed

1. Put the garlic, salt and lemon juice in a small mixing bowl and whisk to combine.

2. Add the yolk and water.

3. While whisking, drizzle in the oil. (A friend holding the bowl can be helpful or set the bowl on a pot lined with a kitchen towel to keep it from sliding and moving as you whisk.)

4. Keep whisking as you slowly add all the oil, making a thick and creamy emulsion. If the sauce is a little thin, whisk in a bit more oil. If it’s too thick, add a couple drops of water or lemon juice.

5. Aioli can be served immediately or stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. It is safest to use pasteurized eggs when serving raw or undercooked eggs.

Cook’s Note: For an easy cheat, just add garlic and lemon juice to your favorite store-bought mayonnaise to make aioli. 

NUTRITION

Cook’s Note: Some chefs prefer to flip the hot tortillas instead of baking them in the oven.

This browns the tortilla on both sides. It’s a little tricky and possible to burn yourself with hot oil from the pan, but if you want to try cooking the tortilla on both sides, you will not need to turn on the oven. Instead, after the tortilla is browned on one side, invert it onto a plate and then slide it back onto the hot pan cooking both sides. But be very careful not to get hot oil on yourself while turning the pan. Better to move it quickly and decisively than furtively and allow the hot oil to drizzle out of the pan.

CLASSIC CHEESE SOUFFLÉ: PER SERVING: CALORIES 250; FAT 18g (sat. 10g); CHOL 210mg; SODIUM 590mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 0g; SUGAR 3g; PROTEIN 15g

OYAKODON: PER SERVING: CALORIES 570; FAT 8 (sat. 2g); CHOL 260mg; SODIUM 1450mg; CARB 81g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 20g; PROTEIN 40g

COCONUT CAKE W. SWISS MERINGUE FROSTING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 650; FAT 41g (sat. 27g); CHOL 115mg; SODIUM 280mg; CARB 67g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 45g; PROTEIN 6g

PARISIAN GNOCCHI W. ZUCCHINI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 370; FAT 26g (sat. 13g); CHOL 140mg; SODIUM 320mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 1g; SUGAR 2g; PROTEIN 11g

SPANISH TORTILLA W. POTATO, SPINACH & CHEESE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 410; FAT 30g (sat. 6g); CHOL 230mg; SODIUM 700mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 2g; PROTEIN 14g

spring 2021 real food 29

GREEK BEEF, CHICKPEA AND GREEK SALAD WRAPS WITH TZATZIKI (RECIPE PAGE 32)

Wrap It Up

Roll a delicious lunch or dinner into one tasty bundle

BY ROBIN ASBELL

S

erving up a three-course meal sometimes just seems like too much—too many dishes to make, too much to clean up. That’s when you can look to

these wrap sandwiches that roll all the tastes of a meal into a tasty, handheld bundle.

In this ever-evolving culinary world of ours, we tend to take something we love, like a burrito—perhaps the original wrap—and start riffing on it. The flour tortilla can be a vehicle for everything from standard sandwich fillings to salads once we start calling it a “wrap.” In these recipes, I took some popular meal combinations and transformed them into handheld wraps. Roast beef and potatoes?

Yes, it’s a delicious wrap. A sheet pan chicken dinner? Fantastic as a wrap. You get the picture. Somehow, a meal is just a little more fun when you “wrap it up.”

For these meal-sized wraps, look for jumbo flour tortilla wrappers with a span of at least 10 inches.

White, whole-wheat and spinach tortillas can be used interchangeably in all of these recipes.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

spring 2021 real food 31

Greek Beef, Chickpea and Greek Salad Wraps with Tzatziki

Big Hippie Wrap with Curried Kidney Beans and Kale

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

In this whole-meal wrap, you have the option of using ground beef or a plant-based option such as Beyond Beef. Sautéed with onions and oregano, you might not even know the difference, especially with the deluxe Greek salad stuffed into these big fat Greek-style wraps.

When you crave something hearty, healthy and delicious, make this wrap. A quick simmer in coconut milk makes the kale soft and creamy. Tender kidney beans and nutty quinoa complete the trio of super healthful foods all rolled into one colorful wrap.

For the Tzatziki 1 cup chopped cucumber 1 cup plain Greek yogurt ½ teaspoon dried dill weed 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper For the Salad 4 cups chopped romaine lettuce 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained 1 cup grape tomatoes, sliced ½ cup pitted kalamata olives, sliced 2 medium pickled peperoncini, sliced 4 ounces feta cheese 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar 2 large onions, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 16 ounces lean ground beef or plant-based meat alternative 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoon salt 4 large flour tortillas

1. First, make the tzatziki. In a medium bowl, combine the cucumber, yogurt, dill, salt and pepper, and stir to mix well. Reserve.

2. Make the salad: In a large bowl, combine the romaine, chickpeas, tomatoes, olives, peperoncini and feta. In a cup, whisk 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the red wine vinegar and reserve.

3. In a large sauté pan, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat, add the onion and sauté for about 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the garlic, then crumble in the ground beef (or Beyond Beef). Add the oregano and salt as you stir, breaking up the meat as you cook. When the meat (or meat substitute) is cooked through, remove pan from heat.

4. Drizzle the reserved olive oil mixture over the romaine mixture and toss to mix.

5. Lay out the tortillas. In the center of each, place about 3/4 cup ground beef. Top with 1 cup romaine mixture and 2 tablespoons of tzatziki. Fold in the sides of each tortilla, then roll up to make a wrap. Place on a plate, seam side down. Serve hot.

32 real food spring 2021

¾ cup quinoa 1¼ cups water

1 cup coconut milk 1 teaspoon curry powder ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 8 ounces kale, stemmed and chopped 2 (15-ounce) cans kidney beans, rinsed and drained ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup coarsely chopped roasted cashews, divided

4 large spinach tortillas

1. In a small pot, bring water to a boil, then add quinoa, return to a boil, and then reduce heat to low and cover the pot. Cook 15 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is tender. Remove from heat and fluff the quinoa with a fork.

2. In a large sauté pan, pour the coconut milk and place over medium high heat. Add the curry powder and cayenne pepper and stir. Bring to a boil. Add the kale and stir, turning the leaves until the kale turns dark green and shrinks, about 2 minutes.

Add the kidney beans and salt and stir. Continue boiling until the beans are heated through and the coconut milk coats the greens, about 4 minutes.

3. Place the tortillas on the counter. Scoop about ½ cup quinoa and place in the center of each tortilla, then top with about 1 cup cooked greens mixture. Sprinkle each with 2 tablespoons chopped cashews, then fold in the sides and roll up. Place seam side down on a plate and serve.

HOW TO PACK A WRAP These wraps are fantastic when assembled hot and fresh, but part of the appeal of a wrap is its packability. The best way to pack your wrap is to make all the elements in the recipe and let the warm parts cool completely. Once cooled, place a 16-inch-long piece of plastic wrap or waxed paper on the counter and assemble the wrap on top of it as directed in each recipe, so it is easy to simply roll the wrap in the plastic or waxed paper and then fold the ends over.

Refrigerate up to 2 days. Then you can peel back the plastic wrap or waxed paper on one end and eat it, unwrapping as you go. To warm, unwrap one end of the plastic wrap or waxed paper and place on a plate to microwave on high for about 3 minutes. If desired, unwrap and pan sear the wrap instead.

BIG HIPPIE WRAP WITH CURRIED KIDNEY BEANS AND KALE

spring 2021 real food 33

SCALLION RICE AND HONEY-SOY SHRIMP WITH SESAME CAULIFLOWER

34 real food winter 2020

Scallion Rice and Honey-Soy Shrimp with Sesame Cauliflower MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Three simple parts come together in this zesty wrap. Tender, honey-soy coated shrimp rest atop sesame-lemon cauliflower and scallion-spiked rice for a threecourse meal in one easy-to-pack bundle. Use small, already deveined shrimp for a streamlined process. If frozen, you can thaw them in 10 to 20 minutes in a colander under a slow trickle of cold water.

For the Rice ¾ cup water ½ cup long-grain white rice 2 scallions, chopped For the Cauliflower 3 cups cauliflower florets 1 tablespoon tahini 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon salt For the Shrimp 1½ pounds fresh large shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons soy sauce ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon sesame oil 4 large flour tortillas

1. In a small pot with a lid, bring water to a boil, then add the rice and return to a boil. Cover, reduce to low heat and cook for 15 minutes. When all the water is absorbed, remove pot from heat and stir in the scallions.

2. Set up a steamer and steam the cauliflower for about 4 minutes.

3. While the cauliflower cooks, stir the tahini, lemon and salt in a medium bowl.

4. When the cauliflower is tender, drain well, then add to the tahini mixture and turn the bowl, scraping the bottom of the bowl with a spatula, until coated.

5. Peel and devein the shrimp and pat dry using paper towels. Chop the shrimp into ¾-inch long pieces and reserve.

6. In a cup, mix the honey and soy sauce and reserve. To serve, warm the sesame oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat, then add the chopped shrimp and red pepper flakes. Stir until the pan is sizzling and the shrimp is turning pink, about 2 minutes. Stir the honey and soy sauce and pour over the shrimp in the pan and stir until the pan is nearly dry and the shrimp is coated. Remove from heat.

7. Place four tortillas on the counter. In the center of each, place ⅓ cup of the cooked rice mixture. Scoop ¾ cup of the cauliflower mixture on top of that, then ¼ of the shrimp, about ½ cup. Drizzle any leftover sauce from the pan over the shrimp so that it will seep down into the rice. Fold in the sides of each tortilla, then roll up and place, seam side down, on a plate. Serve hot.

Roasted Balsamic Chicken and Red Peppers with Fresh Mozzarella and Basil MAKES 4 SERVINGS | PHOTO ON PAGE 2

Chicken and sweet bell peppers go well together, especially when glazed with tangy balsamic vinegar. A quick roast on a sheet pan is all it takes, then the addition of creamy fresh mozzarella and basil give it the familiar Italian flavors we love on pizza. To melt the mozzarella, pan sear or microwave the wrap until hot.

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast 1 large red bell pepper 1 small onion 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon salt 8 ounces fresh mozzarella pearls 1/4 cup fresh basil 4 large flour tortillas

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Slice the chicken across the grain into ½-inch wide pieces and place on a baking sheet. Thinly slice the pepper and onion and add to the chicken.

2. In a cup, whisk the olive oil and vinegar, drizzle over the chicken and peppers and sprinkle with the salt. Toss to coat.

3. Roast for 30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and lightly browned. Place the baking sheet on a rack to cool.

4. To assemble, stir the mozzarella and basil into the chicken mixture. Lay out the tortillas and place about 1 heaping cup of the filling in the center of each tortilla. Fold in the sides and roll up the tortilla. Place seam side down on a plate and serve.

spring 2021 real food 35

Roast Beef, Potatoes and Spinach with Melty Cheddar MAKES 4 SERVINGS

If your favorite meal is roast beef and potatoes, you will love this quickto-assemble, portable version. A pan of hot, crispy roasted potatoes is tossed with spinach, then topped with cheddar and sliced deli roast beef—you’ll never miss waiting for a roast to come out of the oven.

1½ pounds (about 20) fingerling or new potatoes 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 2 cups baby spinach, coarsely chopped 2 large scallions, chopped 4 ounces (1 cup) shredded sharp cheddar cheese ¾ pound cooked roast beef, thinly sliced, divided 4 large flour tortillas

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Cut the potatoes into bite-sized chunks and place on a rimmed sheet pan. Drizzle potatoes with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a paring knife.

2. Briefly remove the pan from the oven, add the spinach and scallions to the pan and use your spatula to turn and mix. Put the pan back in the oven for 1 minute to wilt the spinach, then remove pan from oven and place on a rack.

3. Lay out the tortillas. On each tortilla, place about 1 cup potato mixture in the center. Cover the potatoes with 1/4 of the cheese (about 1/4 cup) and 1/4 of the beef slices (about 3 slices). Fold in the sides of the wrap, then roll the wrap into a cylinder. Place on a plate, seam side down and roll the remaining wraps. If desired, pan sear to crisp the tortilla (see box below). 

HOW TO PAN SEAR A WRAP

NUTRITION

The soft flour shell of your wrap is appealing right out of the package. But if you like to add a little crunch, try pan searing. All you need is a large sauté pan and a little bit of neutral oil (such as canola or avocado). Place your pan over medium-high heat and add a little oil. Let heat for a few seconds, then place two wraps in the pan, seam side down. Let the wrap cook, undisturbed, for 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning with tongs.

SCALLION RICE & HONEY-SOY SHRIMP W. CAULIFLOWER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 510; FAT 8g (sat. 2g); CHOL 275mg; SODIUM 1670mg; CARB 70g; FIBER 4g; SUGAR 13g; PROTEIN 44g

36 real food spring 2021

BIG HIPPIE WRAP W. CURRIED KIDNEY BEANS & KALE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 520; FAT 26 (sat. 12g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 640mg; CARB 55g; FIBER 12g; SUGAR 3g; PROTEIN 20g

ROASTED BALSAMIC CHICKEN & RED PEPPERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 560; FAT 22g (sat. 11g); CHOL 125mg; SODIUM 1220mg; CARB 45g; FIBER 3g; SUGAR 5g; PROTEIN 47g

GREEK BEEF, CHICKPEA & SALAD WRAPS W. TZATZIKI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 810; FAT 37g (sat. 11g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 2750mg; CARB 75g; FIBER 11g; SUGAR 17g; PROTEIN 47g

ROAST BEEF, POTATOES & SPINACH W. MELTY CHEDDAR: PER SERVING: CALORIES 670; FAT 26g (sat. 7g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 1110mg; CARB 70g; FIBER 5g; SUGAR 4g; PROTEIN 38g

spring 2021 real food 37

Food with Benefits

Vegan and vegetarian recipes can add flavor and nutrition to your plate

A

fter struggling with years of unhealthy living, chef Akhtar Nawab set out to begin cooking with a greater purpose. Using a deep knowledge of Indian, Southern, Mexican and Italian

cuisine, Nawab experimented with flavorful, nutritious recipes that ultimately became his new cookbook, “Good for You: Bold Flavors with Benefits.” It serves as a guide for anyone looking to make bold, creative meals while staying healthy. With a selection of vegan and vegetarian options, it’s never been easier

to commit to a healthier, meat-free lifestyle without giving up the taste of your favorite foods. Start small by making your pancakes with pumpkin anytime of the year to add nutritional value to your family’s favorite breakfast, or try something completely new, like Cauliflower with Farro and Coconut Yogurt. Here, you’ll find these recipes from the book and also get a taste of flavorful recipes from appetizers to dessert that can help you on the path to eating well and also hopefully feeling better. —Abbi Kiesau

38 real food spring 2021

VEGETARIAN

Cauliflower with Farro and Coconut Yogurt MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

I’m a big fan of putting vegetables in the center of the plate and feel like the benefits of a plantforward lifestyle have led me to serve meatless meals to my family more often. But I’m also someone who likes to feel satisfied, and that’s why so many meatless Indian meals work well; they rely on legumes and grains and vegetables that are hearty and super good for you. This Indian cauliflower recipe is one of my favorites. It’s like a braised cauliflower and it goes so well with the nutty, chewy farro, and the tang of the coconut yogurt really brightens everything up. If you have a gluten intolerance, don’t use the farro, go for quinoa instead.

For the Cauliflower 1 medium cauliflower head, cut into large florets 1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning 2 tablespoons coconut oil 2 medium Spanish onions, diced 2 medium garlic cloves, minced 1 (2½-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced 1 small jalapeño, seeded and minced 1 (14-ounce) can whole tomatoes, gently crushed with your hands 1 teaspoon ground cumin, toasted ½ teaspoon ground coriander, toasted ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric, toasted ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, toasted

CAULIFLOWER WITH FARRO AND COCONUT YOGURT

For the Farro 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut in half lengthwise 1 celery stalk, cut in half lengthwise 1 medium Spanish onion, peeled and cut in half 4 cups farro 1½ tablespoons kosher salt For the Coconut Yogurt 1 cup Greek plain traditional yogurt ½ cup coconut milk ¼ cup grated cucumber, liquid squeezed out ¾ teaspoon ground cumin, toasted and ground ½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Line a sheet tray with parchment paper.

2. First, toss the cauliflower florets in a large bowl with the olive oil and season with the salt.

Spread the florets out on the sheet tray and roast in the oven for 7 to 10 minutes, until the florets start to caramelize and are about halfway cooked. Set aside.

3. Meanwhile, in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or skillet over medium heat, melt the coconut oil. Spoon in the onions, garlic, ginger and jalapeño, and slowly cook until they soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cumin, coriander, turmeric, red pepper flakes and salt (adding 1 teaspoon of the salt at a time to taste).

4. Turn the heat to low and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Add the roasted cauliflower and continue cooking for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cauliflower has finished cooking through and is tender when pierced with a fork.

5. While the cauliflower is cooking, make the farro. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat and add the vegetables. Cook until the vegetables are lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add the farro and cook, stirring frequently, until the farro smells nutty and roasted, 3 to 5 minutes. Add 8 cups of water and the salt, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the farro in tender, about 45 minutes. Drain any extra cooking liquid.

6. Next, make the coconut yogurt. Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well.

Adjust the seasoning as needed.

7. To serve, place the cauliflower over the farro and serve the coconut yogurt on the side or over the top. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.

spring 2021 real food 39

GLUTEN FREE, DAIRY FREE, VEGAN

Lentil Hummus with Seed Crackers MAKES 4 SERVINGS

For Prather’s on the Alley, my restaurant in Washington, D.C., I wanted to serve something for the table that would work well for every diet and restriction. I like hummus but it’s everywhere, and I wanted to do something in that vein but a bit less traditional. I went with lentils because they are packed with protein and are so good for you, and also because they reflect a little more of where I come from. I like to use ivory lentils (also called urad) for this hummus, but feel free to substitute any lentils you have on hand.

For the Hummus 1 cup ivory lentils 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste 3 tablespoons tahini 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 small garlic clove 2½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil For the Seed Crackers 1¼ cup hemp protein powder 1 cup flaxseed 1 cup pumpkin seeds ½ cup chia seeds 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon coconut oil 2½ tablespoons maple syrup sea salt, for sprinkling 1. First, rinse the lentils (in a chinois or fine-mesh sieve) in cold water until the water runs mostly clear; this takes a few minutes. Add them to a large pot with 4 cups of water and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat and then turn down the heat to medium so the lentils are simmering gently. Skim off all the foam that rises to the top. Simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until soft.

40 real food spring 2021

2. Next, transfer the lentils, still in the cooking liquid, to a smaller vessel that can fit in a large bowl filled with ice and water. This will cool them down quickly. After 15 to 20 minutes, when the lentils have cooled down (they should be at least slightly colder than room temperature by this point), strain the lentils but reserve the cooking liquid.

3. Add the lentils, tahini, lemon juice, garlic and 3 tablespoons of the cooking liquid to the bowl of a food processor. Purée for 3 to 4 minutes, scraping down the sides of the food processor to make sure all the ingredients get fully incorporated. Slowly add the olive oil. You may need to add more water if it is too thick. It should be a creamy, hummus-like consistency. Season with salt to taste and serve immediately. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days.

4. Next, make the seed crackers. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a sheet tray with a silicone baking mat or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

5. In a large bowl, mix the hemp protein powder, flaxseed, pumpkin seeds, chia seeds and salt with ¾ cup of water.

Mix until the water is absorbed and the mixture is sticky.

With a rubber spatula, spread the mixture on the sheet tray. Use your hands to press down the mixture and make sure it’s evenly distributed. It should be about ¼ inch thick.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until it is set.

6. It will still seem a little soft at this point, but it will not fall apart when you press it with your finger. Remove the tray from the oven and lower the oven temperature to 325°F. Brush the cracker evenly with the coconut oil and maple syrup and sprinkle with some sea salt. Cut the cracker into about 15 large (3-inch) pieces (you can use the back of the spatula or a dull knife and cut right on the tray) and put the crackers back in the oven and cook for another 20 to 30 minutes, until crispy. The crackers will continue to crisp up as they cool on the sheet tray, but they should be hard when they come out of the oven. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

spring 2021 real food 41

GLUTEN FREE, DAIRY FREE, VEGAN

Sweet Potato Falafel Salad with Tahini Dressing MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Chickpeas are a traditional falafel base, but I always find they make falafel too dry. When I revised the recipe with sweet potato and peas, I found the falafel were tastier and had a lot more moisture. This is meant to be a salad but you could also tuck the falafel into pita and add the salad and tahini dressing on top for a fantastic falafel sandwich.

For the Falafel 1 large sweet potato 5 or 6 cilantro sprigs 3½ to 4 cups spinach, packed 1¾ cups green peas (defrosted and dried well if frozen) 1⁄3 cup coconut flour 1 tablespoon gluten-free flour 1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon vegan butter 1¼ teaspoons garlic powder 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon garam masala

1 (1 inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced 1 small jalapeño, seeded and minced 1 teaspoon canola oil For the Salad 10 cups mixed lettuces 1½ cups cherry or grape tomatoes, cut in half ½ cucumber, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons torn mint leaves kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup Tahini Dressing (recipe below)

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. First, make the falafel. Wash the sweet potato and poke a few holes in it. Cover with aluminum foil and roast in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until tender. Once it is cool enough to handle, scoop the insides into a medium bowl, and mash by hand or with a mixer. You should have at least ½ cup of purée. Let it cool in the refrigerator for an hour to make sure it’s cold. You can spread it out on an 8x16-inch sheet tray to help it cool faster.

2. Once the purée is cool, add ½ cup of the purée back into the bowl of the food processor, along with all the other falafel ingredients, and process the mixture until completely combined and pretty smooth. It won’t be completely smooth, but most large pieces should be broken up at this point.

3. Heat the oven to 400°F. 4. Line an 8x16-inch sheet tray with parchment paper and spray it with nonstick cooking spray. Measure 2 heaping tablespoons or weigh 1½ ounces per portion. Roll each portion into a ball and place them on the sheet tray. Bake for 15 minutes, turn the falafel balls over and bake for another 15 minutes, until caramelized all over. Remove the falafels from the sheet tray and set on a plate at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

5. While the falafel balls are baking, make the salad. Add the lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and mint leaves to a large bowl. Season with 1 teaspoon of salt (or more as desired) and pepper. Toss with the tahini dressing, using more or less if you’d like. Finish with the warmed falafel.

6. Store leftover falafel in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

GLUTEN FREE, DAIRY FREE, VEGAN

Tahini Dressing MAKES 1 CUP

This is another one of those recipes that you will find endless uses for. It’s perfect for the Sweet Potato Falafel Salad with Tahini Dressing but you can spoon it over grilled chicken, lamb or steak. Kids love it, too, so put it out with any raw vegetable and watch them eat all their veggies! ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ cup tahini 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1½ teaspoons white sesame seeds, toasted and cooled ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1. In a large bowl, whisk the lemon juice and ¼ cup of water into the tahini. Slowly add the olive oil, whisking as you pour it in. Stir in the sesame seeds and salt. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.

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GLUTEN FREE, DAIRY FREE, VEGAN

Dark Chocolate Almond Butter Cups with Sea Salt MAKES 12 INDIVIDUAL CUPS

Chocolate and peanut butter is one of my favorite combinations, and I feel like I’m not alone here. When I made desserts for Indie Fresh, I knew I wanted to try to create a version of a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup that I could eat without too much guilt. I think I did a pretty decent job here; this satisfies that primal need for chocolate even though it’s seriously good for you. ½ cup almond butter (unsweetened, unsalted and roasted) 1 tablespoon coconut flour 1½ teaspoons maple syrup 1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more for garnish 2¼ cups vegan dark chocolate chips ¼ cup unsweetened plain almond milk 1 tablespoon unsweetened coconut oil 1. Line two mini muffin tins with cupcake liners and lightly coat with cooking spray.

2. Combine the almond butter, coconut flour, maple syrup and sea salt in a small bowl. Warm in the microwave for about 20 seconds or in a small pot over low heat until it’s slightly runny. Put the mixture in a pastry bag or a large zip-top bag (and cut the corner to pipe out the mixture like you would with a pastry bag). Keep this warm in a double boiler over low heat.

3. Add the chocolate, almond milk and coconut oil to a large bowl and melt over a double boiler. Stir until completely melted and smooth.

Don’t let the mixture get too hot, otherwise it will firm up, so keep stirring and don’t leave it unattended.

4. Once it’s melted, put the chocolate mixture in another pastry bag or large zip-top bag.

5. Pipe the chocolate into the cupcake liners, filling them about a quarter of the way. Next, pipe the almond butter mixture into the center of the chocolate. You will want to divide the almond butter evenly among all 12 liners. Next, pipe the chocolate again to cover the almond butter centers. You should see only chocolate on top.

6. Sprinkle each cup with sea salt and let sit in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and serve when chilled. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, but chances are they will get demolished faster than that.

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GLUTEN FREE, DAIRY FREE, VEGETARIAN

Pumpkin Protein Pancakes

Cashew Purée

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 1½ CUPS

Pancakes are such a fun way to start the morning, and they’re a breakfast my daughter loves. But given my propensity toward healthful meals, I felt I needed to transform the traditional pancake from something with nearly no nutritional value into something that’s better for you (and your family). These have flaxseed (which are loaded with healthy fat, antioxidants and fiber), and are gluten free. To make them even better for you, I’ve added unsweetened pumpkin purée (high in fiber, potassium and vitamin C). I still flip them in a skillet the way I would ordinary pancakes, though I use coconut oil. You’ll feel good knowing you’re sending your kids out the door with a solid breakfast that will keep them satisfied until lunch. Or wrap them up and put them in their lunch boxes!

Editor’s Note: You will need to make the Cashew Purée before the pancakes (see recipe at right).

Think of this cashew purée as a revolutionary béchamel sauce—it adds richness with a plant-based nondairy fat. It does take a little bit of time and effort to make because the cashews have to be soaked, boiled and strained, but the texture benefits make it worth the time commitment. I like to make this in advance for the week and keep it in the refrigerator so it’s on hand.

1 cup gluten-free flour (or 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour if you prefer) 2¼ teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons ground flaxseed ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 eggs 1½ cups coconut milk ¼ cup unsweetened pumpkin purée 2½ teaspoons Cashew Purée (recipe at right) 1½ teaspoons cider vinegar maple syrup and sliced fresh fruit, for garnish

1. First, soak the cashews in ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of room-temperature water for 2 hours, making sure all the cashews are fully submerged in the water.

2. Next, drain the cashews, discarding the liquid.

Spoon the soaked cashews into a blender with ¼ cup of water, the olive oil, nutmeg and salt, and purée for 3 to 4 minutes, scraping down the sides of the blender several times to make sure all the ingredients get fully incorporated. You may need to add an extra drop or two of water to bring it together.

3. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 5 to 7 days. 

NUTRITION

1. First, whisk together the flour, baking powder, flaxseed, baking soda and salt in a small bowl.

2. Next, in a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the coconut milk, pumpkin purée, cashew purée and vinegar.

3. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients in the large bowl and whisk it all together.

4. Heat an electric griddle to 400°F or set a stove-top griddle on medium heat. Or you could use a large nonstick pan as well. Just make sure it’s pretty hot before cooking the pancakes. You may need to use some cooking spray to coat the pan or griddle.

5. Spoon a heaping spoonful of batter onto the hot surface. Let cook for 5 minutes, flip, and cook for another 5 minutes.

6. Let the pancakes rest for at least 5 minutes before eating. Serve with maple syrup and fresh fruit. Store leftover pancakes, wrapped in plastic or foil, in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days, or in the freezer for 4 to 6 weeks.

CAULIFLOWER W. FARRO & COCONUT YOGURT: PER SERVING: CALORIES 760; FAT 22g (sat. 9g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 2870mg; CARB 112g; FIBER 23g; SUGAR 7g; PROTEIN 24g

LENTIL HUMMUS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 250; FAT 15g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 590mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 5g; SUGAR 0g; PROTEIN 11g

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SEED CRACKERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 710; FAT 41g (sat. 7g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 600mg; CARB 45g; FIBER 29g; SUGAR 9g; PROTEIN 42g

1 0½ ounces raw cashews 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt

SWEET POTATO FALAFEL SALAD W. DRESSING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 320; FAT 14g (sat. 3g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 1150mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 12g; SUGAR 10g; PROTEIN 12g

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “GOOD FOR YOU: BOLD FLAVORS WITH BENEFITS”

BY AKHTAR NAWAB WITH ANDREA STRONG ©2020 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF CHRONICLE BOOKS. PHOTOS BY ANTONIS ACHILLEOS.

DARK CHOCOLATE ALMOND BUTTER CUPS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 220; FAT 17g (sat. 8g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 190mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 14g; SUGAR 1g; PROTEIN 5g

PUMPKIN PROTEIN PANCAKES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 270; FAT 17g (sat. 13g); CHOL 60mg; SODIUM 360mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 2g; PROTEIN 6g

PUMPKIN PROTEIN PANCAKES

spring 2021 real food 45

One-Pan Meals Easy weeknight dinners the whole family can enjoy

WHITE PIZZA WITH FONTINA, CHICKEN AND ARUGULA

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M

ost everyone can use a little help getting dinner on the table, even if a “commute” these days might just

be from one room in your home to another. The many demands on your time—from household chores to

helping kids with schoolwork—might keep your day’s work going into the evening, but it can be easier than you think

to cook a homemade dinner.

Carla Snyder has taken what she learned from more than 30 years as a cooking school teacher, caterer, artisan baker and recipe developer, and figured out how to combine ingredients that cook deliciously together and make a complete meal in one pan. In her book, “One Pan, Whole Family,” all of these recipes, including those here, are ready to eat in less time than it might take to order and pick up take-out. Snyder can’t help you fold your laundry, as she notes in the book’s introduction, but she can help you reduce the time spent on the nightly dinner task and turn it into more quality time relaxing with your family. The recipes work for kids’ tastes and include optional ways to spice up the adult portions and wine pairing suggestions. That way, one recipe has the potential to make everyone at the table happy. —Mary Subialka

White Pizza with Fontina, Chicken and Arugula MAKES 4 SERVINGS | 30 MINUTES

I’ve been making a version of this pizza for the last 30 years and it never fails to please. The garlicky oil base is just right with all that flavorful rotisserie chicken blanketed with Fontina cheese. The arugula salad on top adds a spicy green note to lighten things up, and I love how the heat from the pizza wilts the arugula a bit. It’s essentially dinner on a pizza.

1/2 red onion 2 garlic cloves 1 pound frozen pizza dough, thawed and out of the refrigerator for about 10 minutes 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1½ cups shredded rotisserie chicken kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1½ cups grated Fontina cheese 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar 3 handfuls baby arugula 1. If you have a pizza stone, place it on the bottom rack of the oven. If you don’t have a pizza stone, you can bake the pizza on a rimless sheet pan. (It won’t be as crispy on the bottom and may take a few more minutes to bake.) Heat the oven to 450°F. 2. On a large cutting board, thinly slice the onion and mince the garlic; set aside.

3. On a lightly floured surface, pat and stretch the dough into a 16-inch circle and place it on a sheet of parchment paper. Transfer the dough and parchment to a pizza peel or a sheet pan. Drizzle the dough with 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil and rub the garlic over the top with your fingers. Layer on the chicken, sprinkle with salt and a few grinds of pepper, then top it with the Fontina, Parmesan and red onion.

4. Slide the pizza, still on the parchment, onto the heated pizza stone or transfer the sheet pan to the oven. Bake until the bottom is crispy and the cheese has browned slightly, 12 to 15 minutes.

5. While the pizza cooks, in a large bowl, combine the vinegar, a sprinkle of salt, a few grinds of pepper and the remaining 1½ tablespoons olive oil, and whisk to combine it well. Add the

arugula to the bowl and toss with your hands to coat it with the dressing.

6. Slide the peel under the pizza to remove it from the oven or transfer the sheet pan to a wire rack. Arrange the arugula salad on the pizza and let cool for about 5 minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve hot.

» IT’S THAT EASY: Rotisserie chicken comes to the rescue at our house a few times a month. It’s great on a pizza but I also use it in quick vegetable-based soups and on simple salads to make dinner more substantial. I have the best results when I shred it as soon as I get it home (it’s easier when still warm) and then divvy it up among a few zippered plastic bags. If I don’t use it all up within a few days I can toss the remainder in the freezer without even thinking about it.

Extra-Hungry Kids? Scatter some rinsed canned white beans on the pizza along with the chicken. They add heft and nutrition and taste great as well.

Adult Taste Buds? The arugula topping is a basic version, but you can get more creative and add halved grape tomatoes, thinly sliced radish, or shaved carrot or fennel and make it a salad party on top of your pizza.

In The Glass: Vermentino is a lively white wine from the Sardinia region of Italy. Similar to Sauvignon Blanc, it partners well with many dishes and can vary from grassy and herbaceous to fruity. All iterations are delightful; plus, it’s usually inexpensive, making it a great bottle for a weeknight. Pizza night is a celebration, so let the kids in on the fun as well with a glass of apple-pomegranate blend and sparkling water.

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BOW TIES WITH SHRIMP, SPINACH AND FETA

Bow Ties with Shrimp, Spinach and Feta MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS | 40 MINUTES

I had a great time figuring out how to best cook this pasta dish in one pan. Turns out, cooking the pasta in a mixture of vegetable broth, water and lemon juice flavors the pasta in the best possible way, and then there’s all that shrimp, spinach and feta cheese crumbled in, making it taste even more fabulous. The end result is lemony, cheesy pasta and shrimp for dinner, all in about 40 minutes.

1 onion 2 garlic cloves 2 cups vegetable broth 2 lemons 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 pound bow tie pasta 1 pound small to medium shrimp, shelled and deveined 8 ounces baby spinach 8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. On a large cutting board, chop the onion and mince the garlic in separate piles. Combine the vegetable broth and 1½ cups of water in a large liquid measuring cup, then grate the zest from one of the lemons into the cup. Squeeze the juice from both lemons into the cup.

2. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add the onion and sauté until it begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute, or until fragrant.

3. Pour in the broth mixture and add the pasta, pressing down on the pasta to submerge it. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to

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medium-low, and simmer the pasta for about 10 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally. It shouldn’t be completely tender yet.

If the pasta isn’t submerged, add another 1/2 cup of water.

4. Stir in the shrimp and continue to cook, stirring, until the shrimp are almost cooked through, about 3 minutes. Stir in the spinach in batches, adding more as each previous bunch wilts, and then stir in the cheese. This will take a few minutes and the pasta and shrimp will have a chance to tenderize. There should be a little sauce in the bottom of the pan. If not, stir in another 1/4 cup of water to juice it up. Taste and season with salt and pepper if it needs it.

5. Heap the pasta onto heated plates and serve immediately. It’s best when really hot.

» IT’S THAT EASY: Bagged frozen shrimp come in a variety of sizes. The numbers 41/50 on the label indicate that there are 41 to 50 shrimp in 1 pound; these are usually considered medium.

Small shrimp are labeled 51/60 and those labeled 36/40 are considered medium-large.

I suggest the small to medium shrimp for pasta or mixed seafood dishes. But if your shrimp are on the large side, cut them down into smaller pieces so you get more bites of pasta with shrimp in them.

Extra-Hungry Kids? It’s not likely, as this makes a ton of pasta, but if you’re looking for a little extra, just add another 4 ounces of shrimp.

Adult Taste Buds? I like my serving with a generous sprinkle of red pepper flakes and an extra squeeze of lemon juice.

In The Glass: Tart feta cheese is challenging but my favorite pairing with this dish (and a general fave overall) is a zippy white like a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. For the kids, pour a blend of pineapple juice and coconut water and add an orange slice to the glass.

Rosemary Pork Tenderloin with Carrots and Fig-Yogurt Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS | 45 MINUTES

Pork tenderloin has always been a favorite at our house because it’s so good at partnering up with other flavors. Here, it’s rubbed with woodsy rosemary, but fresh thyme or oregano would be just as good. Basic carrots and corn round out the meal, but the figs, fig-yogurt sauce and pistachios take this dish to the next level with minimal effort.

7 dried Black Mission figs 1/4 cup pistachios 5 medium carrots, about 12 ounces 1 shallot 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for vegetables freshly ground black pepper 1 (1½-pound) pork tenderloin 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 cup frozen corn, thawed 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt 1/4 cup fig jam 1. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil and place it in the oven.

Heat the oven to 425°F. 2. On a large cutting board, stem and quarter the figs; transfer them to a bowl and add hot tap water to cover.

3. Chop the pistachios and set aside. Peel and thinly slice the carrots and chop the shallot; transfer them to a medium bowl and toss them with the olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and a few grinds of pepper.

4. On the cutting board, rub the pork with ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Sprinkle the rosemary over the pork and press so that it adheres. Drizzle with a little olive oil and pat it on with your fingers.

5. Arrange the pork on one side of the heated pan and the carrot mixture on the other side, spreading it out so that it cooks evenly.

Roast the meat and vegetables for 20 minutes.

6. While the meat and vegetables cook, stir together the yogurt and jam and keep refrigerated.

7. Check the meat for doneness with an instant-read thermometer.

It should read 145°F. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and tent with aluminum foil. Allow the meat to rest for at least 5 minutes to let the juices settle. Leave the thermometer in the meat while it rests, and you will see the temperature rise to at least 150°F. 8. While the meat rests, drain the figs, toss them on top of the carrots, sprinkle the corn over the vegetables and cook for another 5 minutes.

9. Slice the pork thinly and divide it and the vegetables among heated plates. Dollop with the yogurt sauce, sprinkle with the pistachios and serve.

ROSEMARY PORK TENDERLOIN WITH CARROTS AND FIG-YOGURT SAUCE

» IT’S THAT EASY: Fig jam is a garnish for cheese plates and it’s great served that way, but it’s extra special dolloped onto a slice of grilled chicken or pork, elevating a basic meal to simply elegant.

Extra-Hungry Kids? Add extra carrots and corn.

Adult Taste Buds? Cook up quartered baby bok choy with the carrots to balance some of the sweetness.

In The Glass: Rosé is perfect with pork. Look for Whispering Angel. Yes, the angels do whisper about this wine. It’s heavenly.

And for heaven’s sake, pour the kids a Shirley Temple.

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BEEF FAJITAS WITH GUACAMOLE

50 real food spring 2021

Beef Fajitas with Guacamole MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS | 35 MINUTES

The control freak in me loves fajitas. I get to make each flavorful bite exactly the way I like it. I’m a fan of lots of vegetables, a little meat and lots of guacamole, but my husband likes lots of cheese and meat, less vegetables, but still lots of guac. How do you like yours?

1½ pounds London broil (also known as top round or flank steak) 2 garlic cloves 4 limes 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste freshly ground black pepper 1 small red onion 1 red bell pepper 1 poblano chile or green bell pepper 2 ripe avocados 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 8 to 12 (6-inch) flour tortillas For serving crumbled queso fresco sour cream jarred or fresh salsa

» IT’S THAT EASY: It isn’t easy to cook a whole steak to the

NUTRITION

1. On a large cutting board, cut the steak into thin strips and then into bite-size pieces. Transfer the steak to a zippered plastic bag.

2. Flip the cutting board over onto the clean side, mince the garlic and add half to the steak. Juice three of the limes and add 2/3 of the juice to the steak along with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, the cumin, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Mush the marinade around, squeeze out the extra air, zip the bag closed and let it rest on the counter while you prepare the other ingredients. (I like marinating the steak in the bag because the marinade really covers the surface of the meat, but if you’d rather just place it all in a casserole or shallow dish, that is fine as well.)

3. Thinly slice the onion and then mince about 2 tablespoons of it; place the minced onion in a medium bowl and the sliced onion in a larger bowl. Seed and thinly slice the bell pepper and poblano and transfer them to the bowl with the sliced onion.

4. Halve and pit the avocados, then, using a large spoon, scoop the avocado flesh into the bowl with the minced onion and add the cilantro. Mash it all together with the back of a fork. Add the remaining 1/3 lime juice, a sprinkle of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Taste and add more salt, pepper or lime juice if it needs it and set the guacamole aside.

5. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. When the oil shimmers, add the sliced onion and peppers and the remaining half of the garlic.

WHITE PIZZA W. FONTINA, CHICKEN & ARUGULA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 630; FAT 29g (sat.

10g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 1110mg; CARB 56g; FIBER 3g; SUGAR 4g; PROTEIN 35g

Sprinkle the vegetables with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper and sauté them until they’re tender but still a little crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the veggies to a large platter.

6. Add the meat and marinade to the hot pan and sprinkle the meat with salt and a few grinds of pepper. Sauté the meat, stirring occasionally, until medium-rare, about 2 minutes. Transfer the meat to the platter with the vegetables. There should be marinade remaining in the pan. Continue to cook for another minute until it reduces somewhat, and then pour it over the meat and vegetables.

7. Warm the tortillas on a plate, covered with microwave-safe plastic wrap, in the microwave for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Slice the remaining lime into wedges.

8. Lay out the platter of meat and vegetables, warm tortillas, guacamole, cheese, sour cream, lime wedges and salsa on the table and make your own personal fajitas just the way you like them. perfect doneness. I can tell you how to do it, but it’s the weeknight and you’re tired and I’m tired and there is a better way to cook steak for fajitas on family night: Cut it into small pieces so that the marinade flavors it more fully and it cooks more quickly and efficiently.

BOW TIES W. SHRIMP, SPINACH & FETA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 480; FAT 12g (sat.

6g); CHOL 130mg; SODIUM 1110mg; CARB 66g; FIBER 5g; SUGAR 4g; PROTEIN 27g

Extra-Hungry Kids? Open a can of refried beans and warm them up in the microwave. Serve them with the fajita fixings and either load the beans onto your fajita or serve them alongside.

Adult Taste Buds? Add pickled jalapeños, chopped lettuce and Mexican hot sauce to the spread.

In The Glass: Fajitas and beer just go together. Drink your favorite. Mine is a Corona Light longneck with a slice of lime, but any brew will do. Serve the kids an Arnold Palmer: half iced tea, half lemonade. 

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “ONE PAN, WHOLE FAMILY”

BY CARLA SNYDER ©2018 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF CHRONICLE BOOKS. PHOTOS BY COLIN PRICE.

ROSEMARY PORK TENDERLOIN W. CARROTS & FIG-YOGURT SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 470; FAT 12g (sat.

3g); CHOL 115mg; SODIUM 170mg; CARB 48g; FIBER 6g; SUGAR 32g; PROTEIN 43g

BEEF FAJITAS W. GUACAMOLE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 570; FAT 27g (sat.

8g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 870mg; CARB 45g; FIBER 8g; SUGAR 6g; PROTEIN 41g

spring 2021 real food 51

Let the Kids Cook Melissa Clark gives gives kids the keys to the kitchen

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

T

cheesy skillet black beans Yessssssss please

CLARK WITH DAUGHTER DAHLIA AND HUSBAND DANIEL GERCKE

his was my 13-year-old texting me from her bedroom about “Kid in the Kitchen,” a new cookbook out from Melissa Clark. My kid has never texted me about a cookbook before. She’s barely ever even glanced at the shelf of kids’ cookbooks we have accrued since she was a toddler, even though she passes it on every trip to the kitchen. In fact, despite the fact that she lives in a house filled with cookbooks, she’s never had any interest in making lunch or dinner. In one afternoon, “Kid in the Kitchen” changed all that.

At some level, this should come as no surprise: Melissa Clark has such a reputation for writing good recipes that The New York Times has tasked her with the job every week since 2007, in a column called A Good Appetite. She’s the face of the cooking section, too, putting out weekly videos, and did a podcast, Weeknight Kitchen with Melissa Clark, with The Splendid Table in 2019. She’s also the go-to writer for chefs, helping restaurateurs such as Daniel Boulud, David Bouley and Claudia Fleming translate their recipes for the home kitchen.

And while Clark had never written a book for kids before now, she has written 42 others since her first in 1993.

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Most importantly, she has an 11-yearold—Dahlia. And, it turns out that even a world-famous cook who works out of her home kitchen finds inspiring her kid in the kitchen nearly impossible. “She’s like, ‘Mom, get OUT,’” Clark says, commiserating over the phone and a cup of tea one morning.

“I can’t be in the kitchen with her, probably because I’m a know-it-all, bossy mama cook—I’m her mother! I wrote it so I could leave her in the kitchen with the book and she could just figure it out.”

That might sound a little rough, but Clark means it in the most supportive way possible. “Most kids’ cookbooks are written for young ones, and it’s all about ‘be careful, be careful,’” she says. “But by the time your kids are tweens, they can absolutely handle it.”

Okay so far my favorite thing about the cookbook is the way the colors make parts pop and make it make more sense

“Kid in the Kitchen” doesn’t actually read that differently than an adult cookbook. The presentation is fairly traditional, with a recipe on one page and a photo facing it. And while the recipes have fun names (“OMG, I Smell Bacon!” or “Wrap Artists” for a section on tacos), Clark doesn’t talk down to her readers. There are notes on how to cook pasta perfectly “al dente,” how to separate eggs, and how to peel fresh ginger with the edge of a spoon—things you would encounter in an adult cookbook. “With the kids’ book, I just added one more layer, to ask myself, ‘Where would Dahlia need the extra hand-holding?’” Clark says.

Those places are highlighted in bright colors and boxes—helpful for people with short attention spans or too impatient to read through an entire recipe before launching into cooking (issues not unique to kids, Clark quickly points out). “Every recipe starts out with what you need to do for thinking ahead, especially for baking recipes—taking the butter out of the fridge, taking the eggs out of the fridge,” she says. “I want to give them every tool I have so they

can make the perfect popovers or an amazing pan of brownies or yummy ramen for the whole family. I want them to feel like, ‘OMG, I made this thing!’”

Wow I just found the brownies with candy canes

Like many kids, Clark’s earliest attraction to the kitchen was through sweets. “I was a baker,” Clark says. “I baked a lot of things because, although my parents were great gourmet cooks, there were no cookies in the house, ever. I would have to go to my friend Abby’s house, where it was like the cookie aisle in the grocery store. Snack at my house was a buttered rice cake. But my mom respected my sweet tooth. It was just that, if I wanted to fill my larder with sweets, then I had to do it myself.”

Clark’s first attempts weren’t always successful. She tells a story about attempting a purple layer cake all by herself at age eight, and ending up with lavender-hued fingers and a flat gray disk. But she had enough fun in the process that she kept at it, expanding her repertoire to savory dishes by high school.

By the time she was in graduate school at Columbia (where she studied writing, including the university’s first food writing class taught by food historian Betty Fussell), she was parlaying her cooking skills into jobs. “I cornered the dissertation wine and cheese market,” she recalls. “When the professors had celebrations, they could either go to the deli down the street, or to me, and I was cheaper and fancier, because I did things like purple potatoes with smoked trout dip,” she says, laughing at the memory.

Her big break in the cookbook world came when a small publishing house asked her to create a bread machine cookbook.

Released in 1993, at the peak of the breadmachine craze, the book was an instant success, and to this day remains a favorite among bread-machine acolytes.

From a parent’s perspective, the most remarkable element of the book might be the recipe selection. “Kid in the Kitchen” is entirely devoid of English-muffin pizzas

I’m texting it to you so I don’t forget: I want to make ramen and grilled cheese with vegetable happy faces or avocado halves dressed as small animals. “I wrote it thinking about stuff I want to eat,” Clark says. “So much of the stuff in kids’ cookbooks just doesn’t sound good. I don’t recall what book it was, but I remember these kabobs with cherry tomatoes, broccoli and mozzarella.

It’s pretty and it pops on the plate, but it doesn’t sound appealing.”

Clark also wanted the book to reflect kids’ tastes today. “Growing up in Brooklyn, I knew Chinese food, but not Thai, not Vietnamese,” she recalls. “Our kids know this stuff. And it’s not just kids in New York; kids across the country are a lot more sophisticated than they were. And kids, once they get over that picky phase, are excited to try new things, especially if they make it themselves,” says Clark. “Even my picky Dahlia, who literally wouldn’t let her food touch a couple of years ago, now loves a bahn mi.”

This means that “Kid in the Kitchen” includes ingredients you won’t often find in kids’ cookbooks. There are calls for chile peppers (and directions on how to handle them), curry powder, shiitake mushrooms and seaweed. There are recipes for farro bowls, pork carnitas and panjeon, a Korean scallion pancake. These aren’t just wishful thinking on Clark’s part; she cleared the recipe list with Dahlia and her friends before committing to it.

The important thing, she found, was helping them see how they could make a recipe their own. “I wouldn’t even have thought to put in a recipe for grilled cheese—I’d thought that’s not something you need a recipe for—but they wanted it, and they wanted to know how do you make it special?” Clark says. The “Tips and Tweaks” were a gamechanger for my kid, who immediately noted how they allowed her to make choices. “I want kids to look at a recipe and say, ‘this sounds yummy to me, this doesn’t, and you know what? I can make that change.’”

But also, Clark firmly believes that kids can handle more than many of us expect.

“My parents lied to me all the time. They told

spring 2021 real food 53

me rabbit was chicken, frogs legs were chicken; horse steak was just steak. There were so many lies,” she says, remembering back to family trips they took to France. “When I would find out about it, I felt betrayed. I was so mad about it for so long. So I vowed not to ever lie to her.

But sometimes I don’t mention everything.”

What about the garlicky, crumb’y pasta p 99?

Anchovies?!?!?”

“I want to give them every tool I have so they can make the perfect popovers or an amazing pan of brownies or yummy ramen for the whole family. I want them to feel like, ‘OMG, I made this thing!’”

—Melissa Clark

Like, say, anchovies. “Dahlia still thinks she doesn’t like anchovies even though I make her anchovy-breadcrumb pasta all the time,” Clark says. “And it’s not like she doesn’t know that they are there. It’s almost like she has two minds: On the one hand she knows that she loves mommy’s garlicky breadcrumb pasta, which she knows has anchovies in it, and on the other she knows she hates anchovies. I’m not going to disabuse her of it, I’m not going to lie to her, and I’m also not going to say, look, you love anchovies! Because that doesn’t work.

When kids don’t like something they have to figure it on their own.”

Cooking, she thinks, is one way kids can get over their fear of some foods. “It’s not like the pasta tastes like anchovies; it just adds umami to the dish,” Clark points out. “Seeing that transformation can be powerful.”

I witnessed this power firsthand when my daughter made the pasta including the anchovies (at my urging)—and everyone ate it up.

She’s not going to be putting anchovies on her pizza any day soon, but she now gets the idea that you don’t have to love every ingredient in a dish in order to love the dish.

That said, Clark admits that the anchovyinfused garlicky breadcrumb pasta is one of the few dishes in the book that Dahlia hasn’t made. “Maybe if she did, she’d stop at the anchovy. But it is one of our absolute family favorites, so I wanted to include it here.”

Can I make the cornbread too?

RECIPE AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM “KID IN THE KITCHEN: 100 RECIPES AND TIPS FOR YOUNG HOME COOKS” BY MELISSA CLARK AND DANIEL GERCKE © COPYRIGHT 2020. PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT © 2020 BY DAVID MALOSH. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE.

54 real food spring 2021

As absolutely wonderful as it is to have my kid suddenly cooking—actually preparing meals!—in my kitchen, I have to admit I fought a degree of discomfort with it, too. While she

read the instructions on how to dice an onion, she can’t actually do it very well yet, and while she knows pot handles get hot, she can get flustered and forgetful. What if she hurts herself?

“Videos are great, especially for knives,” Clark says, speaking directly to the oniondicing worry. “Every parent should watch a knife skills class with their kid; I know my knife skills improved after watching one with Dahlia. And you as a parent can’t teach them how to use a knife as well as somebody on YouTube can, because they trust them and they think, ‘oh, Mom, get outta here.’”

But you also need to set them up for success.

“Before the kid goes into the kitchen to start cooking without you, you need to give them a safety tour,” Clark stresses. “You need to show them how the oven works, how to make sure the stove lights; that this is where it gets hot, these handles are hot.”

Well-prepared doesn’t mean infallible, though. “They are smart, they’ll get it—and they’ll forget, because they are kids, and because they’re human—I am queen of forgetting that I put the skillet in the oven and then grabbing it,” Clark says. “The worst that’s going to happen is they’re going to cut themselves, and they’re going to bleed. But they are not going to set the kitchen on fire or chop anything off. We’re not talking little kids.”

Plus, a little fear on both your parts isn’t a bad thing; it will help keep you aware. But you do have to give them room to make mistakes, even if it means a little physical pain. “You let them cross the street, right?,” she says. “You have to let go, too. And the more they do it, the more secure they’ll get and the more relaxed you’ll get.”

What’s sometimes more challenging than a fear of physical injury is the fear of failure.

Anyone, any age, who’s tried to make something for the first time, and with great hopes for the outcome, knows the fear of failing, and how it can distract from doing something well. For that fear, Clark says, the best thing you can do is simply be there. Not in the kitchen, but within ear shot. “Even though kids want independence, the second things go wrong, they want you to fix it,” Clark says.

“Dahlia wants to do it herself—she says, ‘Mommy, get out of the kitchen, I want to do this,’ but when she runs into a roadblock and then I’m there, that’s a really nice togetherness moment for us. That is where you get to cook with your kid.” 

Garlicky, Crumb-y Pasta MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This pasta is my daughter Dahlia’s all-time favorite, and we make it together two or three times a month. Its beauty is in the crunchy, garlicky topping on the springy, buttery noodles—so we keep this pretty plain, though sometimes I’ll add sliced olives or an egg (see Tips and Tweaks). Anchovies add a subtle, savory flavor that’s delicious and not at all fishy. kosher salt, as needed ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 garlic cloves, minced 4 to 8 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped pinch of crushed red pepper flakes (optional) 1 cup panko or other unseasoned breadcrumbs 1 pound spaghetti, linguine, or other pasta 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter ½ cup chopped fresh parsley leaves lemon wedges, for serving flaky sea salt, for serving freshly ground black pepper, for serving 1. Fill a pot with water for the pasta, then stir in enough kosher salt to make it taste like seawater (nicely salty, but not too salty). Place the pot on high heat and let the water come to a boil while you start to make the topping (it will take a while to boil).

2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet set over medium-high heat, heat the oil for about 20 seconds. It will thin out as it heats, but it shouldn’t get hot enough to smoke. Stir in the garlic, anchovies and red pepper flakes if using. Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Keep an eye on it—garlic burns really quickly. If the garlic starts to turn brown, pull the pan off the heat to let it cool down for a few seconds. The anchovies will have mostly dissolved in the oil.

3. Stir in the breadcrumbs and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the breadcrumbs are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a large spoon, transfer the breadcrumbs to the plate.

4. When the water is boiling, add the pasta and cook until it is just shy of al dente, about 2 minutes less than the package directions.

To test it, grab a piece with a fork and run it under cool water before tasting. Using a measuring cup or a mug, scoop out about a cup of the pasta water and put it aside to use in the next step. Carefully drain the pasta in the colander.

5. In the same pot you cooked the pasta in, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Whisk in ¾ cup of the reserved pasta water and bring it to a simmer. Simmer for 1 minute to reduce the sauce, then turn off the heat. Add the pasta and the parsley, and toss to coat.

Let simmer for another 30 seconds to 1 minute to heat through and finish cooking the pasta. Add a splash more pasta water if the pasta seems dry.

6. Right before serving, toss about three-quarters of the breadcrumbs with the pasta until well distributed. Divide the pasta among four bowls, and top with the remaining breadcrumbs, a squeeze of lemon juice, a sprinkle of flaky sea salt and lots of black pepper.

Get it Set • Put a colander in the sink.

• Put a plate next to the stove for the breadcrumbs.

• Set out all your ingredients.

Tips and Tweaks • If you want to work ahead, the breadcrumbs will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week. Put them back in a skillet and warm them over low heat until they get crispy again. They’re ready when you can smell the garlic.

• Sliced olives make this even saltier. Add 2 tablespoons to the pan along with the parsley.

• If you must leave out the anchovies, okay fine.

Just before serving, sprinkle the pasta with lots of grated Parmesan cheese or a little extra salt.

• Top each serving of the pasta with a poached or fried egg. The silky, runny yolk is fantastic with the crunchy breadcrumbs.

spring 2021 real food 55

pairings

Vino and Veg Wine can make a delicious match with vegetarian dishes

BY MARY SUBIALKA

Y

ou can remain cool as a cucumber when selecting wine to pair with vegetarian food if you take into account the dominant flavors of the ingredients and seasonings used to prepare the dish.

The zippy white, Sauvignon Blanc, is a favorite match with a range of vegetable dishes and plays well with dominant ingredients in salads. In Greek salad, the wine’s citrus notes work well with the bold flavors of the feta cheese and Kalamata olives.

If a salad includes goat’s milk cheese and strongly flavored veg such as asparagus and beets, Sauvignon is hard to beat. It can also complement tomato-based salads. Sauvignon Blanc pairs well with other green vegetables, especially if the dish includes sauces with citrus notes. Uncork a bottle with Brussels sprouts, asparagus, cucumbers and broccoli, among others. If you prefer Chardonnay or a dry rosé, give them a try, too.

Mushroom-dominant dishes pair well with Pinot Noir. If a tomato sauce is also included, select a classic Sangiovese or

Sangiovese blends—think Chianti Classico—which also pair well with bean-based dishes. But with a mushroom risotto, reach for Chardonnay or a dry Italian white such as Soave.

Spicy foods like fresh Thai green curry pair well with Riesling and Pinot Gris, which have a little sweetness. Also try Gewürztraminer. But for a richer spiced dish such as eggplant curry that includes tomatoes, a red such as Syrah would work better.

When a meal includes plant-based meat alternatives, pair with wines often associated with their meat counterparts.

Mimicking pork sausage? Try Chenin Blanc or Chardonnay.

Beef-style ingredients? Uncork your favorite red wine.  Note: To make sure your wine selection is suitable for vegetarians, check the label or consult with the wine shop staff. The winemaking process may use animal products such as gelatin or casein in the fining, or clarification process.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food spring 2021

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