Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Summer 2019

Lunds & Byerlys

COMPLIMENTARY

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SUMMER 2019

Savor Summer Enjoy an easy outdoor party menu bursting with sunny flavors

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KOREAN BBQ: Get fired up 5 FRESH HERBS: Add kick to your dishes PRODUCE REFRESHED: Creative veggie-centric meals

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BEAUTIFUL KITCHENS AND BATHS START IN OUR SHOWROOM. VISIT TODAY.

763.717.8500 12955 HWY 55, PLYMOUTH, MN 55441 MingleTeam.com

Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

contents

Features

real food summer 2019

20 Take the Party Outdoors Enjoy your own party with approachable recipes that burst with sunny flavors and hints of spice

BY ROBIN ASBELL

30 Five Fresh Summer Herbs Add kick to your recipes with basil, cilantro, dill, mint and rosemary

BY PAT CROCKER

40 Produce Refreshed Elevate your vegetable-based dishes with creative yet simple ideas

RECIPES BY ABRA BERENS

46 Korean Barbecue Fire up your grill with a fusion of flavors

RECIPES BY BILL KIM WITH CHANDRA RAM

52 Diane Kochilas Sharing tips from her “Greek Table” to yours

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites La Cocina: A celebration of culture RECIPES BY SHANI JONES AND ELVIA BUENDIA

6 Kitchen Skills Fresh, creamy salad dressings

BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Tahini: From salads to dessert

BY LIANNA MATT McLERNON

18 Healthy Habits

Meatless meals

BY ERIK TORMOEN

56 Pairings Burgers and wine

BY MARY SUBIALKA

2 real food fall spring 2017 2015

CREAMY ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH TARRAGON (RECIPE PAGE 35)

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Our Cover

Watermelon Salad with Mint (page 22) Photograph by Terry Brennan Food styling by Lara Miklasevics

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PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF CONTENT MIKE BERGER EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA

ASSOCIATE EDITORS KATIE BALLALATAK, ANNA BJORLIN, LIANNA MATT McLERNON AND ERIK TORMOEN SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KELSEY FISH

VOLUME 15, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S, Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com C

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The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

summer fall 2019 2009 real food 3

bites

A Celebration of Culture Enjoy authentic tastes from across the globe with delicious recipes from San Francisco’s own communal kitchen

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ith a mission of cultivating local food entrepreneurs, La Cocina’s flavors are something special. A nonprofit incubator kitchen located in the Mission District of San Francisco, La Cocina helps its members—primarily women from communities of color and immigrant communities—build successful food businesses by providing affordable commercial kitchen space, technical assistance and access to market opportunities. Why? So that anyone can make a living doing what they love: cooking. To date, the organization has enabled hundreds of women to start their own businesses.

To celebrate its stories of success, La Cocina recently released its first cookbook, “We Are La Cocina,” penned by the organization’s executive and deputy directors and featuring dishes from more than 50 successful entrepreneurs—including those featured here—who not only share beloved recipes handed down from generations before, but their inspiring narratives as well.

With culinary creations hailing from Latin America, Africa, South Asia, East Asia, the Middle East and Europe, there’s something for everyone’s tastes in this diverse book. —Anna Bjorlin

Jerk Chicken MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY SHANI JONES, PEACHES PATTIES

Going to Jamaica for the first time, I felt like I belonged. … People would tell me I was weird, or quiet. I’m just easygoing. And that’s how it felt in Jamaica. I was able to relate. People were just outside making jerk chicken. … I feel like, even though I was raised in San Francisco, we had more of a Caribbean upbringing, from my mom and my grandmother.

3 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped 3 medium green onions, chopped 3 garlic cloves 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground allspice 1⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 4 sprigs fresh thyme, picked leaves and tender stems juice of 1 lime 2 tablespoons white vinegar 1⁄2 cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 8 whole chicken legs rice, beans and plantains, for serving 1. In a food processor, pulse the chile, onions, green onions, garlic, black pepper, salt, allspice, nutmeg and thyme into a coarse paste. Transfer the chile mixture to a bowl and combine with the lime juice, vinegar, soy sauce and oil. (The mixture will be very spicy; be careful while handling, and work in a well-ventilated area.)

2. Place the chicken legs in a large glass dish and pour the jerk marinade on top, turning to completely coat the chicken. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to overnight.

3. Preheat the oven to 400°F and lightly grease a rimmed baking sheet. Put the marinated chicken on the pan and pour any remaining marinade over the top. Bake until the chicken is cooked through (a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 160°F) and lightly charred in spots, 40 to 45 minutes.

4. Serve with rice and beans and fried sweet plantains.

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Pastelitos Tres Leches (Three-Milk Cupcakes) MAKES 12 CUPCAKES, RECIPE BY ELVIA BUENDIA, LA LUNA CUPCAKES

I worked to incorporate some of the flavors available in the Bay Area with the techniques my mom used, like adding freshly squeezed orange or carrot juices and sometimes using thick cream instead of butter. ... At first, [baking] was just a hobby, but now I know I just needed more confidence. ... When I started in the incubator program, I remember being so impressed with the way the other women were taking control of their lives and working so hard to see their dreams come true. It makes me so proud to know them.

For the Cupcakes 1 cup all-purpose flour 3⁄4 teaspoon baking powder 1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1⁄2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature 1 cup sugar 2 eggs, room temperature 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 cup buttermilk cup 1/4 cup neutral oil For the Filling 1⁄2 cup evaporated milk 1⁄2 cup sweetened condensed milk 1/4 cup heavy cream For the Whipped Cream Frosting 1 cup heavy cream 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a standard 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners. Set aside.

2. To make the cupcakes: In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and whisk to incorporate.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the eggs and vanilla and paddle on low until just incorporated. Whisk together the buttermilk and oil.

Add a third of the dry ingredients to the butter mixture, and pour in a third of the buttermilk mixture. Alternate adding the dry and wet ingredients, ending with the wet.

5. Evenly portion the batter into the prepared muffin cups. Fill each cup about three-quarters full. Bake for 18 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into a cupcake comes out clean.

6. Meanwhile, make the filling: Whisk the milks and cream together to incorporate. Refrigerate until ready to use.

7. To make the frosting: Clean out the bowl of the stand mixer and fit it with the whisk. Beat the cream on high speed until firm peaks form.

8. To assemble the cupcakes, use a clean meat injector to inject the center of each cupcake with the tres leches filling, or use a skewer to create small holes in the center of each cupcake and slowly pour in the filling, waiting as it absorbs. Use 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 ounce for each cupcake. Top each cupcake with a dollop of whipped cream. The cupcakes can be stored covered in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. 

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “WE ARE LA COCINA” BY CALEB ZIGAS AND LETICIA LANDA. ©2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF CHRONICLE BOOKS. RECIPE IMAGES BY ERIC WOLFINGER.

summer 2019 real food 5

kitchen skills

Salad Days Make your own fresh, creamy salad dressing to liven up summer

BY JASON ROSS

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ummer is the time to improve your salad game. It is the time to keep indoor cooking to a minimum and highlight young tender vegetables, foods off the grill and all the bounty of the season. You need some solid salad dressing recipes in your repertoire—creamy and tangy, flavorful and yummy, and not too hard to whip together for lunch or dinner.

Here are two base recipes, one with bacon and the other with tahini, that both have big flavor.

Each can be paired with a variety of foods, and each works on a different technique: emulsifying and using starches as thickeners. Once mastered, these dressings are easy to modify, and I include suggestions for other variations such as bacon grilled scallion dressing and tahini ranch dressing.

Use these dressings for sturdier salads such as spinach or kale, or shredded cabbage and carrot, or as a sauce for grilled poultry and seafood. They would also be good with grilled vegetables such as asparagus or eggplant, or even as a stand-in for a creative Caesar salad.

Creamy Lemon Tahini Dressing MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Tahini is made from just one ingredient, sesame seeds, ground into a paste. So luscious and smooth, it has rich texture and deep flavor, all from a pale golden seed. Use the depth and intensity of tahini for a rich dressing with surprisingly smooth texture.

1 garlic clove, finely minced ½ teaspoon salt 1/3 cup sesame tahini paste

¼ cup water 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons olive oil

1. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the garlic and salt.

Whisk in the tahini.

2. Combine water and lemon juice and slowly add to the tahini mixture.

Depending on the thickness of the tahini, more water may be needed to get a creamy dressing-like consistency. (Tahini is a starchy puree and, like most starches, will oddly thicken or clump when mixed with water. Gradually the sauce will loosen as the amount of liquid increases and incorporates into the tahini.)

3. Next whisk in olive oil.

4. Store in a lidded container or jar, refrigerated, for up to 7 days.

VARIATIONS:

Tahini Ranch Dressing: Add ½ teaspoon garlic powder, ½ teaspoon onion powder, ½ teaspoon paprika, ½ teaspoon honey and a dash of Tabasco sauce.

Ginger Yogurt Tahini: Substitute 2 tablespoons olive oil with ¼ cup plain yogurt, and add 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger.

SERVING SUGGESTION: Use tahini dressings with Cucumber Mint Chopped

Salad with Shrimp. For each serving, use 1 cup chopped romaine lettuce, ¼ cup diced cucumber, ¼ cup diced tomato, 2 tablespoons diced red pepper, 2 tablespoons diced red onion, 2 tablespoons crumbled feta, 1 tablespoon minced fresh mint, 1/8 teaspoon salt, grind of black pepper and 2 tablespoons Creamy Lemon Tahini Dressing.

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Creamy Bacon Vinaigrette MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

In this recipe, the starch in the mustard and shallots help to form the emulsion, and the bacon drippings give the dressing a smooth texture. Adding oil to the bacon drippings will help keep the dripping liquid at room temperature so it doesn’t become solid and greasy. It also mellows the flavor, which can get a little rich and overpowering.

1 medium shallot, minced ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon water 1 tablespoon finely sliced chives

pinch black pepper 6 slices bacon cut into ½ inch or smaller pieces 1/3 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons sour cream

1. Toss minced shallot with salt in a small mixing bowl. Wait a few minutes for the shallot to moisten and soften in the salt. This will help cut the heat and bite of the raw shallot and draw out moisture.

2. Whisk red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, water, chives and black pepper into the bowl of shallot. Set aside.

3. Put the cut bacon in a medium sized sauté pan on medium low heat. Cook the bacon, stirring often with a wood spoon, until fully crisped, about 8 minutes.

4. Turn off the heat. Strain bacon drippings into a medium sized mixing bowl and add oil to the strained fat. Remove cooked bacon and store in a small container at room temperature for up to 7 days. These tasty morsels are great with almost anything, but especially salads.

5. Slowly drizzle the bacon drippings and oil mixture into the shallot and vinegar mixture, whisking constantly and vigorously until all the oil has been added. Whisk in sour cream to finish dressing.

6. Store in a lidded container or jar, refrigerated, for up to 7 days. Shake or whisk before serving, and serve at room temperature.

VARIATIONS:

Bacon Blue Cheese Dressing: Substitute 1/3 cup sour cream for 1/3 cup neutral oil, and add 3 to 4 tablespoons blue cheese crumbles.

Bacon Grilled Scallion Dressing: Substitute 1 tablespoon chives for ½ bunch scallions brushed with oil, grilled and chopped.

SERVING SUGGESTION: Try bacon dressings with a Spinach and Grilled

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

NUTRITION

Chicken Salad to make it a meal. For each serving use 11/2 cups baby spinach, 1 tablespoon crispy bacon pieces (from dressing), 1 grilled chicken breast, 1 sliced mushroom, 2 tablespoons blue cheese crumbles, ¼ cup grated carrot, 1/8 teaspoon salt, grind of black pepper and 2 tablespoons Creamy Bacon Vinaigrette.  CREAMY LEMON TAHINI DRESSING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 90 (74 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 159mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g

CREAMY BACON VINAIGRETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 149 (144 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 4g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 204mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

summer 2019 real food 7

contributors

Robin Asbell spreads the

word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef.

She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors.

Her latest book is “Plant-Based Meats.” She is also the author of “300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix,” “Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis.

Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Tara Q. Thomas intended to

be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York but got sidetracked by wine.

She has been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is executive editor. Author of “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics” and a contributor to “The Oxford Companion to Cheese” and the forthcoming “The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails,” she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, New York, juggling a laptop and two small children. She still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

Terry Brennan is a

Abra Berens is the chef at

Granor Farm in Three Oaks, Michigan.

She trained at Ballymaloe in County Cork, Ireland, and Zingerman’s Delicatessen in Ann Arbor, Michigan.

She strives to connect people with their food both through dinners and progressive food policy, helping to further a food system that protects our environment through agriculture, helps farmers earn a living wage, and waste as little food as possible. She lives in Galien, Michigan, with her husband, Erik, and their two dogs.

photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight for me—I look forward to every issue. I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Jason Ross is a chef consultant

for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He trained and grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently, he teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

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Pat Crocker is a professional

home economist and culinary herbalist with a passion for healthy food. Her knowledge and love of herbs has been honed over more than four decades of growing, studying, photographing, experimenting with and writing about what she calls “the helping plants.” In fact, Crocker marries the medicinal benefits of herbs in every original recipe she develops. Crocker has written 22 herb/healthy cookbooks, including “The Healing Herbs Cookbook,” “The Juicing Bible” and most recently, “The Herbalist’s Kitchen.”

Lunds & Byerlys welcome

Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000 Woodbury: 651-999-1200

SHOP ONLINE Shop.LundsandByerlys.com

CATERING LundsandByerlys.com/Catering 952-897-9800

L&B EXTRAS

Precious Time W

hile I’ve always enjoyed our state’s four great seasons, I must admit that with extremely cold temps and snow that reached up to our mailboxes I was really looking forward to warm and sunny summer days.

And, now, with Old Man Winter in our rearview mirror—at least for another six months—it’s amazing how quickly our calendars fill up during these summer months.

Between grad parties, weddings, trips to the cabin, our kids’ activities, backyard barbecues with family and friends and more, there’s so much fun to be had and seemingly so little time to fit it all in.

One of the many ways we here at Lunds & Byerlys can provide a helping hand is with online grocery shopping.

We have more than 40,000 products to choose from at Shop.LundsandByerlys.com.

When you place an order, it’s fulfilled with your exact specifications by our Personal Shoppers who walk the aisles just as if you were doing the shopping yourself. My family has used our online shopping service extensively over the years, and we find it to be an amazing time saver.

As I’ve shared previously, we are always enhancing and refining our online shopping

service to provide you with a truly sensational shopping experience. And we’ve also recently made it even more convenient to shop with us online.

While we have always offered delivery throughout the Twin Cities, we now have curbside pick-up available at every one of our stores. That means there are 27 locations throughout the Twin Cities where you can pick up your online order without ever having to even leave your car!

So, whether you’re heading to the cabin, home from a long day at work, or have just a little time between your kids’ activities, you can have us do the shopping for you so you can quickly pick up all of your groceries at a time that works for your busy schedule.

We hope you enjoy all that our great Minnesota summers have to offer. And we thank you for giving us the opportunity to serve you!

Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

Get extra offers and tools to make shopping easier.

LundsandByerlys.com/Extras

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FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys services

Save Time. Shop Online.

Enjoy the same great products you love—and extra convenience

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ay-to-day life can be hectic, and often just picking up a gallon of milk or ingredients for dinner means an extra stop in an already packed schedule. That’s where we come in! Lunds & Byerlys Online Shopping will fill up your fridge in no time.

For over 10 years, Lunds & Byerlys Online Shopping has been a convenient, hassle-free way to get the same great products you know and love delivered to your door or ready for you to pick up at our stores. In 2016 we debuted a new online shopping platform that we have continued to expand as more and more of us look for time-saving ways to get groceries quickly.

Our fully integrated online shopping experience allows you to create your online order on our desktop site and finish it on your mobile phone or app. This provides a consistent and convenient way for you to order groceries from wherever you are.

The online shopping site also features personalization across the entire shopping experience.

This means at every step of the shopping journey—from the homepage to product collections and recommendations—the platform will display the most relevant items based on your purchase history and ongoing transactions.

Plus, our L&B Extras program allows you to track past purchases you have made both in our stores and online so you can quickly and easily reorder specific items or an entire shopping list. And you’re able to save even more when you shop online by using digital coupons and L&B Extras offers. All it takes is a quick click to “clip” coupons to your account so you can redeem them at checkout.

Once you place an order, your work is done. Personal shoppers in our stores hand-select your order to ensure you receive the freshest items available. Then our delivery drivers bring your groceries directly to the front door of your Twin Cities area home or business. Or, if it’s more convenient, you can opt for curbside pickup at all 27 Lunds & Byerlys stores. Orders can be picked up or delivered on the same day they’re placed as time slots are available, which makes it even more convenient to get what you need, when you need it.

And now you can subscribe and save! Take advantage of our online shopping subscriptions, which allow you to pay one price for unlimited pickup. For a 30-day subscription you pay just $9.99 and a 90-day subscription is $24.99.

We strive to provide a unique shopping experience for every single customer, and we’re confident our online shopping platform will provide that experience to you. 

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Visit Shop.LundsandByerlys.com to try our online shopping site today.

PECULIAR PRODUCE Heirloom Tomatoes Heirloom tomatoes come in a rainbow of colors and sizes and are known for their deep flavor and intense vitamin content.

Available year-round.

Organic Rainbow Carrots These brightly colored beauties offer distinct flavors and are packed with vitamin A and beta carotene. Available year-round.

Shishito Peppers The bright green, finger-sized peppers have delicate skin that lends itself to charring.

They have a lively, sweet flavor with a hint of smokiness. Available year-round.

Gold Nugget Mandarins These citrus gems are seedless and easy to peel. Their well-balanced flavor is sweet, yet slightly tart. Available March-June.

Golden Berries The bright orange berries have a sweet, tropical taste reminiscent of a pineapple or mango.

Available year-round.

White Asparagus White asparagus is grown underground so chlorophyll isn’t produced, which ensures the elegant white color and delicate, slightly sweet flavor. Available March-June.

Champagne Mangoes Champagne mangoes have a glowing golden skin. The kidney-shaped mangoes are delicate and tender with an intensely sweet flavor. Available February-August.

Lunds & Byerlys wine and spirits

BOOZY ICE POPS Celebrate summer with the ultimate cocktail hour cool down! Try some of our favorite adults-only treats at your next get-together.

Wine on a Stick MAKES 1 POP

A refreshing ice pop made out of your favorite summer wine or cocktail. Delicious made with your favorite sangria recipe, too! ½ ounce Powell & Mahoney Peach Bellini Cocktail Mixer 2 ounces Prosecco 1. Fill an ice pop mold 1/3 of the way with Bellini mixer.

2. Pour Prosecco to top the rest of the mold and freeze overnight.

Boozy Orange Creamsicle Pops MAKES 12 POPS

A favorite childhood treat updated with an adults-only twist!

12 ounces vodka 24 ounces pulp-free orange juice 6 ounces full fat coconut milk 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1. Blend all ingredients together.

2. Pour into ice pop molds and place in freezer overnight or until completely frozen.

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Lunds & Byerlys wine and spirits

Rosé Pops MAKES 1 POP

A delicious way to enjoy rosé on the hottest days of summer.

1 ounce rosé ¾ ounce juice or mixer (we used orange and cranberry juice) fresh fruit, chopped or sliced (we used sliced peaches and berries) 1. To each ice pop mold, add 1 ounce rosé, ¾ ounce juice or mixer and fruit of your choice.

2. Add ice pop tops and sticks; freeze overnight.

Gin & Tonic Ice Pops MAKES 1 POP

This recipe makes the quintessential summer refresher even cooler.

2 limes 1 ounce gin 2 ounces tonic water ½ ounce fresh lime juice 1. Place two lime slices in each ice pop mold.

2. For each ice pop, mix together gin, tonic and lime juice. Pour into ice pop mold and place in the freezer overnight or until completely frozen.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

JAVA HOUSE COLD BREW LIQUID PODS AND BOTTLES Java House Cold Brew liquid pods and ready-to-drink bottles make authentic cold brew accessible anytime, anywhere. The dual-use liquid pods can be enjoyed hot or cold and result in a smooth, rich taste.

And the cold brew bottles come in pure black, lightly sweet and frappé, which means there is a perfect pick-me-up for everyone’s taste.

Did you know? Java House Cold Brew is made with 100 percent Arabica coffee beans. This variety of bean grows at a higher altitude and has a less bitter and smoother flavor than its counterpart, Robusta bean.

VOSGES HAUT-CHOCOLAT CHOCOLATE BARS Vosges Haut-Chocolat’s intriguing chocolate creations are the brainchild of founder and chocolatier Katrina Markoff. Katrina and team fuse spices, nuts, roots, herbs and liqueurs from around the world with premium chocolate. Exotic chocolate bars include a pink Himalayan crystal salt caramel bar, dulce de leche chocolate bar and turmeric ginger chocolate bar. The caramel marshmallows include black salt coconut nib, blood orange hibiscus, Alderwood smoked salt and roasted walnut pecan.

Tip: Pair your chocolate with a beverage! The roasted walnut pecan caramel marshmallows pair well with a rich imperial or chocolate stout while the black salt coconut nib caramel marshmallows go perfectly with a Dark ‘n’ Stormy cocktail.

Q DRINKS LIGHT The bold, crisp taste of Q Drinks’ spectacular nonalcoholic mixers is now available in “light” varieties. Real ingredients are carefully crafted to create beverages that are ultra-carbonated and less sweet, which allows the subtleties of great spirits to shine through. Light flavors include tonic water and ginger beer.

Did you know? Q Drinks started with a question: Shouldn’t my tonic be as good as my gin? And with that, founder Jordan Silbert spent four years perfecting a spectacular tonic water. Each flavor is created the same way—with careful attention to detail and lots of testing.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

L&B FRUIT CURDS Our new L&B fruit curds are bright and citrusy, which makes them the perfect warm weather indulgence. Made with fresh citrus juice and real cane sugar, these sweet-tart curds are perfect paired with your favorite bakery treats such as angel food cake, pound cake and shortbread cookies. Flavors include key lime and lemon.

Tip: Elevate your breakfast by swirling our L&B fruit curds into your yogurt, slathering on pancakes or drizzling over fresh berries.

LEGAL SEA FOODS SAUCES & DRESSINGS BY STONEWALL KITCHEN For over 60 years, Legal Sea Foods has been delighting customers at its East Coast restaurants with its New England-inspired menu. Now you’re able to enjoy the signature sauces at home. The versatile products include spicy cocktail sauce, house tartar sauce, chipotle tartar sauce, house vinaigrette and lemon dill marinade and dressing.

L&B MEAL CREATIONS MEAL KITS Take the guesswork out of dinner with our L&B Meal Creations meal kits.

L&B Meal Creations offers restaurantquality meals in the comfort of your own home. Each meal kit features a chef-crafted recipe that serves two and takes just 40 minutes or less to prepare. Whether you’re short on time or looking for new recipes, L&B Meal Creations will let you enjoy preparing a home-cooked meal with fewer steps and delicious results.

Did you know? L&B Meal Creations meal kits are available in all Lunds & Byerlys stores and online at shop.LundsandByerlys.com. Plus, there’s no hard-to-cancel subscription!

Tip: Dress up a homemade po’boy with the smoky chipotle tartar sauce and try the house vinaigrette on a simple green salad or as a tangy marinade for shrimp or swordfish.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

Turn Up the Heat

Spice up your kitchen routine with this 30-inch, 5-burner freestanding gas range from Beko. Warners’ Stellian, Minnesota’s exclusive retailer of Beko, offers free delivery and appliance haul-away on orders $499 or more, plus professional installation from specialists you can trust.

Enter to win this professional-style range Text RANGE to 55955 or visit lundsandbyerlys.com/range

COON RAPIDS MAPLE GROVE EDINA WOODBURY ST. PAUL APPLE VALLEY ROCHESTER SOUTH MINNEAPOLIS SHAKOPEE NOW OPEN IN NORTHEAST MINNEAPOLIS Model PRGR34550SS has a value of $2799.

Visit LundsandByerlys.com/range for contest rules and alternative forms of entry.

Minnesota family owned

ingredient

A Taste of Tahini

Find the versatile ingredient in everything from salads to desserts

BY LIANNA MATT MCLERNON

TAHINI CHANDLERVID85 - ADOBE STOCK MOUSSE ©MIZINA - ADOBE STOCK

A

common way to explain tahini is that it is like the peanut butter of sesame seeds, and cooks and bakers are clearly taking that to heart.

Now instead of only finding the sesame seed paste in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cooking—it’s a mainstay in hummus—it can be added to salad dressing, smoothies, and swirled in desserts like brownies and more.

Tahini can be made with just sesame seeds, but oftentimes some oil is added for a desirable consistency. The simplest tahinis are not as sweet as other nut butters, and while all are creamy, the taste varies a bit depending on how it is made. Un-hulled, whole sesame seeds have more nutritional impact than hulled sesame seeds, and they give off a nuttier flavor. Tahini made from black sesame seeds has more of a roasted flavor, whereas tahini made from white, hulled sesame seeds has a milder taste.

The sesame seeds technically don’t have to be toasted to make tahini, but while raw seeds are more nutritious, they can taste bitter. Some tahini recipes spice up the flavor with seasonings like lemon juice or garlic, and some options go the sweet route with the addition of chocolate.

Tahini is popular in vegetarian and vegan dishes because it has 5 grams of protein, 3 grams of fiber and 16 grams of healthy fat per 2 tablespoons, making for a very filling component to any dish. In that same serving, you’ll get 12 percent of your recommended daily value of calcium, 14 percent of your iron and 6 percent of your magnesium, which helps bone and muscle health, oxygen transportation, and heart health and blood pressure, among other things. These and other nutrients in tahini also contribute to anti-inflammation and antioxidation to help your overall health.

With how versatile it is, you can find all sorts of places to slip a little tahini—and therefore a little extra nutrition—into your diet. Just remember to stir and then refrigerate it to store once you’ve opened a container; otherwise, it will go bad more quickly. You can find tahini in a few places, depending on where you get it, such as in the peanut butter aisle, near other nut or seed butters, or an ethnic food aisle.

For a quick and easy way to start loving tahini (especially if you’re vegan), try slipping it into this chocolate mousse or flip to page 6 to find it in a creamy salad dressing. 

Chocolate Mousse MAKES 3 CUPS, RECIPE BY PETA

2 (12.3-ounce) boxes extra-firm silken tofu ½ cup unsweetened soy milk ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon cocoa powder ½ cup maple syrup 2 teaspoons vanilla essence 2 tablespoons cashew butter 1 tablespoon tahini pinch of sea salt 1. Blend all of the ingredients in a food processor until smooth and creamy.

It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

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healthy habits

Meatless Meals Dialing back on meat doesn’t have to mean a drastic dietary change you might dread

BY ERIK TORMOEN

H

ow much red meat is OK to eat? One hamburger a week, according to 37 scientists in a report released early this year with advocacy group EAT Forum. It’s not a new idea: Studies have shown that eating more plants and less meat can reduce risks of obesity, diabetes, cardiovascular disease, inflammation, premature death and lifestyle-related cancers.

1. KEEP WHAT YOU LIKE. You may already have meatless eating habits. Consider what those are, and draw them out. “Maybe you already eat spaghetti with marinara sauce, and you never even thought of that as a meatless option, but you like it,” Frie says. “Maybe you have that more frequently than you otherwise would.”

2. EMBRACE NEW PROTEINS. A common sticking point when limiting meat is the loss of an easy, concentrated protein. But protein comes in many forms— like beans, legumes, lentils, nuts, seeds, quinoa, tofu and eggs.

“Could you use more beans and legumes [to substitute for] half of the ground beef you use in chili?” Frie poses. “Or could you use tofu to replace the meat you were going to use in a stirfry?” These proteins, along with their higher fiber content

18 real food summer 2019

in some cases, satisfy hunger the same way meats do. (If you still want an animal protein, better options than red meat include chicken and turkey breast and any type of fish, Frie says—bearing in mind how they’re prepared.)

3. BE OPEN TO DIFFERENT FLAVORS. Of course, taste is another barrier. Chef Robin Asbell has written 10 cookbooks geared toward vegetarians, vegans and the health-conscious. Her latest, “Plant-Based Meats: Hearty, High-Protein Recipes for Vegans, Flexitarians and Curious Carnivores,” looks specifically at ways to prepare mock meats.

Asbell knows the common response when anyone bites into a “real” burger alongside a mock burger: “I can taste the difference.”

“Well, that’s obvious,” she says. A patty made of beets, walnuts and potato (see the recipe for Beefy Beet Burgers on the opposite page) will probably never taste exactly like beef.

“It’s very lighthearted when I’m out with the vegans and people are making a mock chicken wing, as is in my book,” she says. “Plant-Based Meats” features wings—buffalo, crispy, pomegranate-glazed—made of tofu or cauliflower. “It’s a fun way to eat something that’s familiar and tasty, but I don’t think anyone is really thinking that that’s a chicken wing.” Rather, it’s a way her “curious carnivores” can warm up to meat substitutes. And, Asbell says, the faux-meat industry is booming. “They’re making leaps and bounds in making things tastier and more interesting,” she says, noting in her book, “If you shop carefully, there are some clean meatless meats at the store, and the options grow every day.”

4. FOCUS ON UMAMI, NOT MEAT. Asbell covers the keys to a good faux: For the Beefy Beet Burger, walnuts and potatoes imitate the chew of ground beef, and the

PROTEINS COLNIHKO - ADOBE STOCK

Think about red and processed meats, says Kristen Frie, a registered dietitian nutritionist with the Mayo Clinic Healthy Living Program in Rochester, Minnesota. Beef and pork are loaded with saturated fat. Cutting down on saturated fat can lessen your chances of developing cardiovascular and inflammatory diseases and, because it packs a ton of calories, can help with weight management, too.

Meanwhile, plant-based foods boast antioxidants that aid in cancer prevention. That’s part of why vegetables, nuts, beans and whole grains play such an active role in highly rated healthy-eating guides like the Mediterranean diet, the DASH diet and the Mayo Clinic Diet.

“I would recommend not to think of it as an all-or-nothing, black-and-white commitment,” Frie says. “It doesn’t have to be ‘I eat meat all the time’ or ‘I don’t eat meat at all.’” For selfproclaimed carnivores, there are simple guidelines for noshing on more plants, plus tricks for dressing up mock meats.

beets even “bleed.” “And then there’s some smoked salt in there and a little tamari [a type of soy sauce], to give it some smoke and umami,” she says.

Don’t overlook umami. One of five basic tastes, this savory profile comes out especially in cooked meats. But you can find the same “meaty” chemicals in mushrooms, ripe tomatoes and fermented ingredients such as miso paste and soy sauce.

Asbell uses nutritional yeast to tap into umami, too, and cooks with smoke—because “it just reminds people of meat.”

5. REPLACE THE REPLACEABLE. Meals are usually more complicated than just the meat on the plate. With something like a burger or lasagna, plenty of other flavors vie for attention, from sauces and condiments to veggies and noodles. “Make a curry, or make a chili,” Asbell says.

“There are all kinds of really tasty recipes where [the lack of meat] is hardly even noticeable.”

6. REMEMBER THE ANCILLARY BENEFITS. “A lot of times, we get the complaint that eating healthy costs too much,” Frie says. The animal protein is often the most expensive thing on your plate. You can buy fruits and vegetables seasonally and in bulk, along with whole grains and beans.

Working with vegetables and other substitutes can cut down on cooking time, too.

7. KNOW THAT MEATLESS DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN HEALTHY. Dietary guidelines of variety and portion control still hold. “Even with something like nuts or nut butters, that are very healthy items, in too large of quantities, too much of a good thing isn’t always a good thing,” Frie says. While building a balanced plate, vegans and vegetarians might consciously incorporate foods rich in iron (like spinach, lentils and brown rice) and vitamin B12 (like eggs, yogurt and fortified cereals) typically found in animal proteins.

8. DROP PRECONCEPTIONS. “It’s very hard to get over this idea people have that you structure your meals around meat,” Asbell says. “But if you’ve ever had a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, you’re eating a vegan meal. There are all kinds of food you probably like already.”  Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

Beefy Beet Burgers MAKES 5 BURGERS

The beet helps us get as close as we can get to the bloody beef you crave, and with a mix of potatoes and seasonings, it can deliver a tasty burger.

Don’t overmix; you want to have some granularity left in the potato pulp and beet shreds to give it a burger-y feel. canola oil for greasing 1 large (10-ounce) baking potato ½ pound raw beets 1 ½ cups raw walnuts ¼ cup vital wheat gluten 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast

¼ teaspoon agar powder 1 teaspoon smoked salt 1 tablespoon refined coconut oil, melted 1 tablespoon tamari soy sauce ½ teaspoon Kitchen Bouquet

1. Set up a steamer over a pot of water and bring to a simmer. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, lightly grease it with the canola oil, and set aside.

2. Place the potato in the steamer and steam for 10 minutes, until tender when pierced with a paring knife. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

3. Place a pot of water over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Add the beets and boil for 10 minutes, until tender when pierced with a paring knife. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

4. Peel off and discard the beet skin. Put the shredding blade in the food processor and put the lid on, then drop the potato and beets through the feed tube to shred them. Scrape the shreds into a large bowl.

5. Place the walnuts in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “S” blade and pulse until they are minced to the size of cooked ground beef crumbles.

Scrape them into the bowl containing the potato and beet mixture.

6. In a cup, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, nutritional yeast, agar and smoked salt. Sprinkle the mixture over the bowl containing the potato mixture.

7. In a second cup, stir together the coconut oil, tamari and Kitchen Bouquet and pour it over the potato mixture. Using your hands, toss the mixture together, trying not to mash the potatoes too much.

8. Using a ½-cup measure, form the dough into five patties. Place the patties on the pan and flatten them to a ¾-inch thickness. Spritz or brush them with more of the canola oil. Bake for 30 minutes, turning the burgers once halfway through the cooking time, or until they look toasted and are firm to the touch. Remove from the oven. Serve hot.

PHOTO AND RECIPE FROM “PLANT-BASED MEATS” BY ROBIN ASBELL COURTESY OF THE COUNTRYMAN PRESS, A DIVISION OF W.W. NORTON. PHOTO BY DAVID PAUL SCHMIT

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PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

20 real food summer 2019

Take the Party Outdoors An easy menu of sunny flavors with hints of spice makes for a summer party hosts and guests alike can enjoy

BY ROBIN ASBELL summer 2019 real food 21

D

ining on the deck or patio is one of the great joys in life. There is just something about fresh air and sunshine that seems to make the food taste better. And some of the best gatherings are those when you can prep the

food ahead of time and serve it with a minimum amount of effort so you can enjoy your party, too.

This easy menu gathers flavors from warm, sunny cuisines. The lighter, leaner sauces and hints of spice are meant to be enjoyed in the sunshine and won’t slow you down if you are on the move. All these dishes are served buffet style, allowing your guests to fill their plates with whatever appeals to them the most. For pairing drinks, the flavors in this menu go well with iced tea or beer. To top it off, a crowd-pleasing sheet cake makes the most of the season’s fresh berries while offering up the sweet ending we all crave after a great meal.

Watermelon Salad with Mint

Hawaiian Chicken in Lettuce Leaves

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

If your family loves tacos, they will love this tangy sweet Hawaiian chicken in a lettuce leaf wrap. This is perfect for parties, it comes together in a snap, and you can let your guests spoon the tasty filling into individual leaves and add hot sauce to taste. The dish is fresh and light—perfect for a hot day.

This refreshing salad is so juicy and zingy it’s sure to disappear quickly. Sweet watermelon plays well with tomatoes and cucumbers, and a hit of peppery mint accents the flavors. A simple lemon and olive oil dressing is all you need to bring it all together.

4 cups cubed watermelon 2 medium tomatoes, cubed 1 medium cucumber, seeded and chopped 2 scallions, chopped 1/2 cup fresh mint, slivered 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 teaspoon salt 1. In a large bowl, place the watermelon, tomatoes, cucumber, scallions and mint.

2. In a cup, stir the lemon juice, olive oil and salt. Drizzle over the watermelon mixture and toss to coat. Serve immediately.

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MAKES 6 SERVINGS

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon canola or avocado oil 1 pound ground chicken 1 large jalapeño, seeded and chopped 1 cup finely chopped fresh pineapple 1/2 cup roasted cashews 2 heads butter lettuce, separated into leaves Sriracha Sauce, for serving (optional) 1. Chop the ginger and garlic and reserve.

2. In a cup, combine the soy sauce, honey and lime juice and reserve.

3. In a large skillet, heat the canola or avocado oil over medium-high heat. Add the ginger and garlic and sizzle for a few seconds, stirring. Add the chicken and stir, chopping the meat as it cooks. Reduce to medium and stir and turn until the chicken is mostly cooked; it will look white and browned in spots. Add the soy sauce mixture and stir. It will sizzle and be absorbed quickly. Stir in the jalapeño and pineapple and cook just until the pineapple is slightly softened, about 1 minute. Scrape the mixture into a bowl.

4. Sprinkle the cashews over the chicken and serve with lettuce leaves. Portion about ¼ to 1/2 cup into each leaf, depending on the size of the leaf. Drizzle with Sriracha, if desired, and eat immediately.

WATERMELON SALAD WITH MINT AND HAWAIIAN CHICKEN IN LETTUCE LEAVES

Asian Rotini and Scallop Salad MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Asian noodle salads are always popular, and making one with curly rotini only adds appeal. In this veggie-packed dish, carrots, peppers, cucumbers and radishes provide a rainbow of color and crunch. It’s elevated to elegant main course status by placing seared sea scallops on top. If you prefer, you can substitute shrimp.

For the Dressing 2 tablespoons sesame oil 1/4 cup rice vinegar 2 tablespoons honey 1/4 cup tamari soy sauce 1 clove garlic, pressed 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 pound rainbow rotini 1 cup shredded carrot 1 red bell pepper, slivered 1/2 large cucumber 4 large red radishes, sliced 1/2 cup fresh basil

1 pound sea scallops, thawed if frozen 1/2 teaspoon paprika 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt 2 tablespoons canola or avocado oil

1. Put on a pot of water to cook the rotini.

2. For the dressing, in a cup, combine the sesame oil, rice vinegar, honey, tamari soy sauce, garlic, ginger and red pepper flakes and whisk to combine. Reserve.

3. Cook the rotini according to package directions, about 9 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Place in a large bowl and add the carrot, bell pepper, cucumber, radishes and basil and toss to mix, drizzle with dressing and toss to coat. Refrigerate until serving.

4. For the scallops, drain any liquid from the scallops and pat dry. Remove the connective piece from the edge of each scallop, if present. Sprinkle the scallop tops with half of the paprika and salt.

5. Place a large sautĂŠ pan over medium-high heat and let it heat for a minute. Drizzle in the oil and tilt the pan to coat the bottom. Place the scallops in the pan and sear 2 to 3 minutes undisturbed, until the edges look browned and start to crack. Sprinkle the tops of the scallops with remaining paprika and salt. Turn over the scallops, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until firm when pressed with a fingertip. Transfer to a plate and cover loosely with a pot lid to keep warm.

6. Serve the rotini in a wide bowl or platter, topped with seared scallops. Drizzle the juice from the pan over the salad and serve.

EASY CHOPPED SALAD BAR A big platter of chopped salad is a great way to let your guests pick their favorite salad ingredients, and it looks beautiful and colorful. Simply select a big platter and spread chopped romaine across it in an even layer.

Chop your favorite ingredients to arrange in rows across the lettuce: Proteins: Cubed cheeses such as Cheddar, Swiss or Havarti; cubed salami, ham, chicken or crisp crumbled bacon; or bleu cheese, walnuts or sunflower seeds Fruits: Chopped apple, berries, sliced peaches or mango

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Veggies: Chopped red peppers, shredded carrots, cubed cucumbers, cubed zucchini, chopped red onion or scallion, cherry tomatoes Set out a bottle of balsamic vinaigrette for each guest to drizzle over their salad just before serving.

ASIAN ROTINI AND SCALLOP SALAD

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JERKED PORK IN THE SLOW COOKER

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Jerked Pork in the Slow Cooker MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Jerk is a classic seasoning from the island of Jamaica, where meats are marinated and then slow smoked over pimento wood. For this easy version, you can keep the kitchen cool since it is made in the slow cooker. It’s so easy to slow braise the meat overnight and finish the dish in the morning so it’s ready to reheat in time for the party. This recipe can be as hot as you like. If you go with the Scotch bonnet chile it will be Jamaican hot, but if you want to tone it down, a couple of jalapeños will give it a milder kick. Serve in buns or over cooked rice for a spicy, savory meal.

1 small Scotch bonnet or habanero chile, or 2 jalapeños 1/2 cup chopped yellow onion 1 tablespoon fresh ginger 2 large scallions, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh thyme 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons ground allspice 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, grated 1/4 cup rice vinegar 2 tablespoons soy sauce

1/4 pounds pork roast, unseasoned 3 1 small red bell pepper, chopped 1 small onion, chopped 12 hamburger buns, or cooked white rice (cook 3 cups long grain rice for 10 to 12 servings)

1. In a blender, combine the chile, onion, ginger, scallions, thyme, salt, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, rice vinegar and soy sauce. Place the lid on the blender and blend, increasing to high speed to make a smooth puree. Scrape out into a slow cooker.

2. Trim the pork roast to remove excess fat, then cut 4- to 5-inch deep slashes on opposite sides of the roast to allow the sauce to penetrate. Place the roast in the slow cooker and turn to coat with sauce, massage the puree into the slashes and make sure it covers the meat.

Cover the slow cooker and cook on low for 8 hours.

3. At 8 hours, transfer the roast to a large bowl and test by sticking a fork into the meat to see if you can pull it into shreds. It should be tender enough to tear easily. If not, place back in the cooker for another half hour.

4. When the pork is tender, place it into the bowl and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

Use two forks to shred the meat.

5. Pour the liquids from the cooker into a 2-quart pot and place it on the stove. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to keep a strong simmer, at about medium high. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquids are reduced by half and appear thicker.

Add the chopped pepper and onion and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cover for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.

6. Pour the vegetable mixture over the cooled, shredded pork. At this point, it can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 4 days, or frozen for 2 months. To reheat, you can use the slow cooker for serving—just heat the meat on low for about an hour. Switch to keep warm as soon as it is hot. You can also reheat the meat in a pan on the stove, stirring over low heat until hot. Serve a heaping half cup or so in each bun, or over cooked white rice.

Cook’s Note: If you think the slow cooker is only for wintry stews and heavy braises, think again. The slow cooker is just as adept at cooking for a crowd in the hot months. Instead of turning on an oven or watching a grill for hours on end, you can make pulled pork and other slow roasted meats without heating up the kitchen. Your slow cooker will ensure that the meat stays moist and that it becomes meltingly tender while you ignore it completely. This Jerk Pork is a great example, and you can do the same thing using barbecue spices and a dash of bottle barbecue sauce.

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Lemon Blueberry Sheet Cake MAKES 12 TO 16 SERVINGS

Feed a crowd with a tender, beautiful cake that’s studded with juicy blueberries and a hint of lemon. The cloud of cream cheese frosting is gorgeous as is, or you can opt to arrange more berries on top.

If you’re feeling patriotic, go with red raspberries and blueberries atop the white frosting to make a flag.

3 cups unbleached flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 11/2 sticks butter 2 cups sugar 1/3 cup lemon juice 2 teaspoons lemon zest 4 large eggs 1 cup buttermilk 2 cups blueberries For the Frosting 1 stick butter, at room temperature 8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature 4 cups powdered sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons lemon juice berries for decoration, if desired 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease and flour a 9x13-inch metal baking pan.

2. Into a medium bowl, sift the flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda. In a stand mixer, beat the butter until fluffy, then gradually beat in the sugar. Beat in the eggs one at a time, scraping down as needed. Beat in lemon juice and zest.

3. On low speed, mix in about a third of the dry mixture just until mixed, then mix in half of the buttermilk and continue alternating until a smooth batter is formed. However, don’t overmix: Scrape the bowl and mix just to combine. Fold in the berries and spread in the pan.

4. Bake for about 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of the pan comes out with no wet batter attached. Cool completely on a rack.

5. For the frosting, let the butter and cream cheese soften to room temperature. Place both in the stand mixer or a large bowl with an electric mixer, and beat the mixture until creamy, scraping down sides of the bowl to make sure all the cream cheese is incorporated.

Add the powdered sugar and salt and beat until smooth. Add lemon juice and beat to mix. Spread the frosting over the cooled cake.

If desired, arrange berries on top. 

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LEMON BLUEBERRY SHEET CAKE

NUTRITION

WATERMELON SALAD W. MINT PER SERVING: CALORIES 154 (99 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 125mg; CARB 14g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 2g

HAWAIIAN CHICKEN IN LETTUCE LEAVES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 210 (101 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 2g); CHOL 43mg; SODIUM 328mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 13g

ASIAN ROTINI & SCALLOP SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 408 (112 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 2g); CHOL 19mg; SODIUM 1319mg; CARB 55g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 19g

JERKED PORK IN THE SLOW COOKER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 338 (102 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 4g); CHOL 77mg; SODIUM 604mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 32g

LEMON BLUEBERRY SHEET CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 674 (211 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 14g); CHOL 114mg; SODIUM 423mg; CARB 112g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 7g

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30 real food summer 2019

Five Fresh Summer Herbs Add kick to your recipes with fresh basil, cilantro, dill, mint and rosemary

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

BY PAT CROCKER

summer 2019 real food 31

N

othing enhances the taste and plate appeal of summer dishes like the flavor spike of tongue-tingling fresh herbs. Not sure what herb would be best for that easy summer salad? Want something to kick up

the taste of grilled chicken? We’ve got your back with five of our favorite summer herbs.

In all but the Mediterranean Herb Paste, which is a combination of herbs from that sunny region, the recipes that follow give you a clean herb hit so that you can truly know the unique experience of each herb. You’ll taste how dill enhances smoked salmon and what happens to salsa when it is ratcheted up by cilantro.

So grab a bunch, try our herb-hip recipes, and start what could become a life-long passion for the humble, nutrient-packed plants we call herbs. And since you have a bunch of herbs for the recipes, and perhaps leftover herbs, we also share more delicious ways to add each of them to your menus.

Minted Tabbouleh with Grilled Beef MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Mint is refreshingly clean tasting with notes of menthol and hints of lemon. Some mints like spearmint are sweet and mildly menthol, while others such as peppermint are sharply menthol with hot, spicy and sweet overtones. Mint is versatile—use it in desserts, salads, with red meats, and in apple cider vinegar as a condiment for lamb.

Peppermint eases pain and acts as an antiseptic, a digestive aid, and as a stimulant.

Use it in teas to alleviate nausea, indigestion, gas, colic, sore throat, fever and migraine headaches. Note: Peppermint isn’t for babies and children due to the strong flavor and digestive action.

For the Minted Tabbouleh 1 pound boneless top sirloin steak ½ cup bulgur 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, grind of coarse sea salt, to taste divided 4 to 6 sprigs fresh mint for garnish 1 cup boiling water 1½ cups chopped fresh parsley 1 cup chopped fresh mint 2 tomatoes, cut into ½-inch dice ½ cucumber, shredded ½ teaspoon sea salt 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1. For the tabbouleh, combine bulgur and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a bowl. Pour boiling water over, cover, and set aside for 15 minutes. Drain using a fine-mesh sieve and transfer to a serving bowl. Add remaining oil, parsley, mint, tomatoes and cucumber and mix well. Sprinkle salt and lemon juice over and stir to combine and set aside or cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. Meanwhile for the beef, heat a grill pan or cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil over steak and grind salt over. Place steak, oil side down, in the pan. Sear for about 2 minutes or until browned. Oil and salt the top of the steak, then flip and cook for about 2 minutes or until the underside is browned.

Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes or until cool enough to handle.

Slice steak crosswise into ½-inch slices.

3. Spoon tabbouleh onto a large platter or individual plates and top with grilled beef slices. Garnish with fresh mint sprigs.

Cooks Note: For a light starter, side dish or appetizer, serve tabbouleh with toasted pita cut into wedges.

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MORE WITH MINT — Stir 1 tablespoon of fresh chopped peppermint into homemade chocolate or lemon pudding at the end of cooking.

— Make a Mint Julep by crushing 1 spearmint sprig with 1 tablespoon sugar in the bottom of a tall glass.

Add shaved ice, 1 ounce bourbon and water to taste.

— Combine ½ cup chopped fresh mint with enough apple cider vinegar to make a sauce to spoon over lamb (remember, mint helps with digestion). Add 1 teaspoon sugar if desired.

— Rub 4 fresh mint sprigs between your palms to bruise them and release essential oils. Stuff them into a mug and pour boiling water over. Let steep to your desired strength.

— Strip the leaves from a sprig of spearmint and add to the blender for a smoothie.

— Cooked new potatoes and peas are deliciously brightened when tossed with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint and a pat of butter.

MINTED TABBOULEH WITH GRILLED BEEF

Dill Cream Sauce with Smoked Salmon MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Fresh dill has a clean, fragrant aroma of licorice and lemon that holds memories of Scandinavian gravlax and open-faced sandwiches. In fact, we’ve used it in yogurt as the perfect accompaniment for our smoked salmon appetizers, and you can pair it with poached or grilled fresh salmon fillets instead of smoked fish.

Dill is antimicrobial and a good source of calcium, iron and magnesium. The seeds are a digestive, helping to treat heartburn, colic and gas.

For the Dill Cream Sauce ½ cup Greek-style plain yogurt 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 1 tablespoon drained capers 1 green onion, finely chopped

8 ounces smoked salmon, skin removed and meat flaked 4 thin slices dark rye or pumpernickel bread 16 fresh dill tips for garnish

1. For the dill cream sauce, combine yogurt, dill, capers and onion in a bowl and stir to mix well.

2. For the appetizers, spread each slice of bread with 2 tablespoons of dill cream sauce. Divide the salmon into 4 equal portions and pile each portion onto a slice of bread. Cut slices into 4 pieces and garnish each square with a tip of dill to serve.

Cook’s Notes: • Greek-style yogurt is thick and creamy, but you can use regular plain yogurt.

Set a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and spoon about 1 cup of plain yogurt into it. Set the bowl and strainer in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. The longer you strain the yogurt, the thicker it will become. Don’t throw out that drained liquid. Use it in soups or add it to your morning smoothie.

• For grilled salmon, double the Dill Cream Sauce recipe to make 1 cup and either serve sauce over each of 4 salmon servings or pass separately at the table.

For an added burst of flavor, prior to grilling, drizzle juice from half of a lemon over fillet and rub with a mixture of 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill.

MORE WITH DILL — Dill and dairy products were made for each other. Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill to ½ cup cream cheese and use in place of mayonnaise as a sandwich spread.

— Make herbed butter using 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill whisked into 1 cup soft butter. Serve with cooked vegetables or top a grilled steak with a pat.

— Toss 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill with perfectly cooked carrots or fresh summer peas.

— Dill makes fish and seafood sing, so make the dill cream sauce whenever you enjoy the bounty from the sea.

— Chop fresh dill into borscht or stir into sour cream and use a dollop with any summer soup.

— Add 1 or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill to add zip to cooked rice, lentils or beans (remember it’s a digestive, so it helps with lentils and beans).

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Basil and Pistachio Pesto with Heritage Tomatoes and Baby Mozzarella MAKES 4 SERVINGS

With its spicy fragrance and sweet flavor that ranges from sublime lemon and nutmeg to bold licorice, cinnamon and allspice, tender basil could be the poster child for fresh summer dishes. Look for bright, shiny leaves that are dry and whole. See our storage tips on page 39.

Eating basil helps digestion by reducing gas and stomach cramps, but you can benefit from the herb other ways, too. Try adding a few drops of basil essential oil to bathwater to help ease nervous exhaustion, mental fatigue or uneasiness. or the Pesto (Makes 1 cup) F 3 large cloves garlic ½ cup shelled pistachio nuts 2 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves ¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese ¾ cup olive oil ½ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste

2 ripe heritage tomatoes, cored and each cut into 4 slices 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into 8 slices extra virgin olive oil balsamic vinegar

1. For the pesto, chop garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Add nuts and process for 30 seconds. Add basil and cheese to the bowl and process 10 seconds. With the motor running, slowly pour in the oil through the opening in the lid. Stop and scrape the bowl before adding all of the oil. Sprinkle salt over and continue adding oil just until reaching the desired consistency of the pesto. The more oil you add, the thinner the pesto will be.

2. For the tomatoes, spread 2 tablespoons pesto over tomato slices and top each with a slice of cheese. Arrange on a serving platter and drizzle with oil and vinegar.

Cook’s Note: If you have a high-speed blender, you can use it to make pesto; however, you may need to stop and scrape the sides of the jug and clear the underside of the blades often.

MORE WITH BASIL — Add chopped basil to egg or chicken salad or other sandwich fillings.

— Tear basil into bite-sized pieces and add to green summer salads.

— Float a whole basil leaf on cold gazpacho soup or tuck one into a lunch wrap.

— Lightly oil chicken pieces or fish fillets and cover with whole basil leaves before roasting.

— Add a ½ cup of fresh, chopped basil to homemade or canned tomato sauce for authentic Italian flavor.

— Add a 1/4 cup of fresh, finely chopped basil to homemade or store-bought salad dressings.

summer 2019 real food 35

Mediterranean Herb Paste with Grilled Chicken and Summer Vegetable Kebabs MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Rosemary is the key herb in this adaptable herb paste that also features other herbs from the Mediterranean. Its Latin name, Rosmarinus translates to “dew of the sea,” an apt term for this heat- and sun-loving herb. Rosemary is pungent and spicy, with hints of nutmeg, pine and camphor, so start sparingly and add more gradually as you gauge how much is enough for you.

Science has proved rosemary to be a powerful antioxidant, which may protect us from toxins around us.

For the Mediterranean Paste ¼ cup chopped fresh rosemary ¼ cup chopped fresh sage 10 cloves garlic ½ cup fresh thyme leaves 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon sea salt 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1½-inch cubes 1 onion, cut into quarters 1 red pepper, cut in half, each half quartered 1 medium zucchini, cut into 8 chunks 8 long, metal skewers, lightly oiled extra virgin olive oil

1. For the Mediterranean paste, combine rosemary, sage and garlic in a food processor.

Pulse for 30 seconds or until garlic is coarsely chopped. Add thyme, mustard, salt and vinegar. With the motor running, slowly add enough oil through the opening in the lid until a soft, paste-like consistency is achieved.

2. For the kebabs: Heat one side of a gas or charcoal grill to produce a medium-hot fire.

Divide the chicken cubes into 4 portions and thread each portion onto a skewer. Rub paste over chicken cubes. Thread vegetables onto remaining skewers in this order for each skewer: red pepper, onion, zucchini, red pepper, zucchini. Drizzle each with oil.

3. Place chicken skewers on the heat. Cover the grill and sear for 1 to 2 minutes or until browned. Flip the skewer and sear the opposite side for 1 to 2 minutes, or until browned.

Add vegetables to the heat and grill for 1 to 2 minutes. Move chicken and vegetable kebabs to the unlit side of the grill. Cover and cook for about 15 to 25 minutes or until chicken juices run clear when pierced with the point of a knife. Note: Vegetables may be cooked before chicken, so remove them as soon as they are done.

4. In the meantime, scrape remaining Mediterranean paste into a large bowl. Remove cooked vegetables from skewers by running a knife along the skewer, letting vegetables drop into the bowl. Remove chicken from skewers into the bowl and toss to coat well. Serve over greens or cooked rice.

Cook’s Notes: • Like the pesto, this paste can be made with a high-speed blender, but you may need to stop and scrape the sides of the jug and clear the underside of the blades often.

• You can keep the kebabs intact instead of removing to a bowl. Serve kebabs over greens or cooked rice and pass the Mediterranean Paste separately.

• This paste goes well with any form of lamb—shanks, chops, roasted leg. Rub it over the meat before cooking, and pass the remaining paste separately at the table.

MORE WITH ROSEMARY — Save sturdy rosemary stems that have been stripped of their leaves and try threading peach or plum halves on them.

Broil in the oven or grill on the barbecue.

— Add chopped, fresh rosemary to canned tomato sauce.

— Stir 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary into potatoes and other root vegetables before roasting.

— Combine 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary with ¼ cup liquid honey and brush over chicken or fish, or toss with vegetables for the barbecue.

— Use fresh rosemary sprigs in marinades for lamb, chicken or beef.

— For a smoky, subtle flavor, try lining the grill with dampened rosemary sprigs before grilling chicken.

— Adding 1 tablespoon of finely chopped fresh rosemary to the ingredients gives a pleasantly peppery taste to shortbread or butter cookies.

GETTING TO KNOW HERBS One of the best ways to really get to know and experience individual herbs is to explore them through your senses. Look closely at the glossy, puckered, apple-green leaves of basil–how are they different from dill leaves? Run your fingers over the spiky, needle-like leaves of rosemary and breathe in its camphor fragrance with hints of citrus, pine and nutmeg. Nip off the end of a mint leaf and let it sit on the end of your tongue before biting into it to determine if it is hot and spicy or bursting with a cool, refreshing menthol flavor. Do the same with cilantro– would you substitute it for mint in the Tabbouleh recipe?

36 real food summer 2019

MEDITERRANEAN HERB PASTE WITH GRILLED CHICKEN AND SUMMER VEGETABLE KEBABS

summer 2019 real food 37

THAI NUT SALSA WITH PASTA BOWTIES

38 real food summer 2019

Thai Nut Salsa with Pasta Bowties MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Fresh, green cilantro leaves really sparkle in this easy summer pasta. This recipe makes a generous amount of salsa—more than you’ll need for the pasta. Store remaining salsa in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days (you may need to strain it after storing) and serve as a casual appetizer dip with corn tortillas or piled on a round of creamy-soft brie.

As are most fresh, green herbs, cilantro is rich in antioxidants, and it’s a good source of potassium, calcium, manganese, iron and magnesium. Amazingly high in folic acid and vitamins A and C, cilantro is also one of the best herb sources of vitamin K. Tummy upset? Try chewing a fistful of fresh cilantro leaves for relief.

8 ounces farfalle pasta

— Chop and liberally sprinkle over burrito fillings and as a garnish after they’re cooked.

— Try substituting 1 cup cilantro leaves and 1 cup parsley in place of the basil leaves in the pesto recipe here.

Cook’s Notes: The flavors intensify if the dish is covered and chilled so you can make it the day before, refrigerate and remove a half hour before serving to bring to room temperature. 

NUTRITION

— Sprinkle coarsely chopped leaves over fresh summer soups and salads.

— Add it to stir-fry dishes, Asian-style soups and curry dishes.

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the farfalle according to package directions, about 12 minutes. Drain well, rinse with cool water and place in a large bowl.

2. In the meantime, for the salsa, heat oil over medium heat in a saucepan. Sauté the onion for 5 minutes. Add garlic and curry and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes or until onions are soft and mixture is fragrant.

3. Add coconut milk and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Add nut butter, honey and lime juice. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes or until incorporated and smooth. Stir in cilantro.

4. Scrape 2 cups salsa over cooked farfalle, toss well and serve immediately. Garnish each plate with a sprig of cilantro

DILL CREAM SAUCE W. SMOKED SALMON: PER SERVING: CALORIES 157 (35 from fat); FAT 4g (sat. 1g); CHOL 15mg; SODIUM 596mg; CARB 14g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 16g

— Intensify the flavor of store-bought salsa and dips by adding up to ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro.

— Take-home Thai or Chinese food can benefit from a generous splash of freshly chopped cilantro.

For the Thai Nut Salsa (Makes 3 cups) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon curry powder 1 can (15 ounces) full-fat coconut milk 1 cup natural peanut, almond or cashew butter ¼ cup honey or brown rice syrup juice of 1 lime ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro 4 sprigs fresh cilantro for garnish

MINTED TABBOULEH W. GRILLED BEEF PER SERVING: CALORIES 369 (188 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 4g); CHOL 63mg; SODIUM 442mg; CARB 20g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 28g

MORE WITH CILANTRO

BASIL & PISTACHIO PESTO W. TOMATOES & MOZZARELLA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 692 (567 from fat); FAT 65g (sat. 16g); CHOL 44mg; SODIUM 780mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 22g

STORING FRESH HERBS Fresh herbs are sold in two ways.

Often, popular herbs such as parsley, cilantro or dill are bunched and sold as produce without packaging. I like to swish them in cool water and store on the counter in a glass or vase with their stems in water (as you would cut flowers) and use within a few days.

For longer storage, pat them dry and keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator. When you buy herbs in their own airtight container, simply keep them in the refrigerator, removing a few sprigs at a time for recipes.

HERB PASTE W. CHICKEN & SUMMER VEGETABLE KEBABS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 625 (249 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 6g); CHOL 211mg; SODIUM 2134mg; CARB 11g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 79g

THAI NUT SALSA W. PASTA BOWTIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 764 (343 from fat); FAT 41g (sat. 16g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 400mg; CARB 87g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 20g

summer 2019 real food 39

Produce Refreshed

These vegetable recipes will elevate your summer meals, making them healthier and simpler RECIPES BY ABRA BERENS

MASSAGED KALE WITH TOMATOES, CREAMED MOZZARELLA AND WILD RICE 40 real food summer 2019

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dding vegetables to our diets should be approachable, purposeful and enjoyable, according to Abra Berens, author of “Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables.” After checking out some of

her recipes, hopefully you will agree with her sentiments. Through the honest storytelling of her own life experiences and encounters with produce as a child, chef, farmer and Midwesterner, Berens shares an approach to vegetables that is simple, offering recipes that alter them just enough to freshen them up, whether by grilling, roasting or serving them raw. Her many variations and alternatives allow for creativity; plus, she’s honest about produce that she finds difficult or a few that just aren’t her favorite. By the time you place the delicious creations on the table for your guests, family and friends to enjoy, you’ll already be planning your next visit to the fresh produce aisles. —Katie Ballalatak

Massaged Kale with Tomatoes, Creamed Mozzarella and Wild Rice MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This recipe calls for wild rice but substitute any cooked grain—especially any random grains that are in the back of your fridge.

If you do use wild rice, you don’t need to soak the grains overnight, but soaked rice will cook much more quickly and will “pop” when cooked, improving the texture, in my opinion. Unsoaked rice will take significantly longer than white rice to cook, so plan accordingly. glug olive oil (See Cook’s Note) 1 small onion, cut into thin slices 2 garlic cloves, minced salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ cup white wine 1 cup wild rice, soaked overnight in 4 cups water 4 cups kale, midribs stripped, well dried and cut into ¼-inch ribbons 1 (8-ounce) ball fresh mozzarella ¼ cup sour cream 1 lemon, zest and juice 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved

1. Heat olive oil. Sweat the onion and garlic with the salt until translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add the white wine and reduce by half. Add the wild rice and the soaking liquid and cook until tender, about 45 minutes.

2. In a mixing bowl, sprinkle the kale with a pinch of salt. Massage the kale until it is dark green, limp and tender in mouthfeel.

3. Tear the mozzarella into rough chunks. Combine with the sour cream, lemon zest and juice, a good pinch of salt, and a couple of grinds of black pepper.

4. When the wild rice is cooked, drain any residual liquid and let cool.

Cook’s Note: I use the term “glug” a good deal … a holdover from my grandmother’s recipes. A glug is the amount of liquid poured from a container before air is pulled in past the “seal” formed by the flowing liquid in the neck of the container, creating a glug sound.

An average glug measure is about 2 tablespoons to ¼ cup. It doesn’t need to be exact— just splash some oil in a pan. If you need more, add it. I’ve yet to need less oil in my life.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “RUFFAGE: A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO VEGETABLES” BY ABRA BERENS ©2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF CHRONICLE BOOKS. PHOTOS BY EE BERGER.

summer 2019 real food 41

Charred Green Beans with Crispy Chickpeas and Curry Yogurt MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This dish defines contrast—smoky grilled green beans, cool yogurt, spicy curry, crunchy chickpeas. I love it so much. Long beans and round chickpeas can be a bit unruly; feel free to cut the beans into smaller pieces or slightly smash the chickpeas before crisping if you like. Similarly, depending on the type of yogurt you’re using, it might be thick or thin. If it is thin, drizzle; if thick, plop. If you are not a curry fan, I also like this recipe with paprika or cumin instead.

1 pound green beans, roughly chopped ¼ cup neutral oil, plus more for cooking the beans pinch salt 2 teaspoons curry powder ¾ cup yogurt 1 cup Crispy Chickpeas (See recipe right) ½ cup cilantro, roughly chopped

1. Toss the green beans with the neutral oil and a big pinch of salt and grill.

2. Heat the ¼ cup oil over high heat and when hot, add the curry powder and let bloom.

3. Stir the curry oil into the yogurt.

4. Transfer the beans from the grill to a serving platter and drizzle with curry yogurt.

5. Scatter with the Crispy Chickpeas and cilantro and serve.

Cook’s Note: Add green beans to the list of things that can be chucked onto the grill throughout the summer. The goal is to char the green beans while keeping the structure of the beans intact.

CHARRED GREEN BEANS WITH CRISPY CHICKPEAS AND CURRY YOGURT

42 real food summer 2019

To keep the green beans from slipping annoyingly through the grates, place a roasting or cooking rack on the grill running perpendicular to the grill grates, forming a mesh fine enough to catch the beans. Dress the beans with as little oil as possible to keep the grill from flaming up and blackening the beans. You can always add more oil or dressing to the beans after they are cooked.

In case of lack of grill or excess bad weather, remember that a broiler is effectively an upside-down grill and works well too.

Crispy Chickpeas MAKES 1½ CUPS 1. Heat the oven to 350°F to 425°F—the hotter the oven, the faster they’ll cook. Drain 1 (15-ounce) can of chickpeas and rinse well.

2. Dress the chickpeas with ½ cup olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon chili flakes (optional).

3. Spread on a foil-lined baking sheet in a single layer and bake until crispy and deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool, keeping in a single layer or they will steam and soften. Keep at room temperature until ready to use.

If they get soft, re-crisp in the oven (a few minutes).

Grilled Corn on the Cob with Parmesan Butter MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Chomping corn from the cob is one of summertime’s most tactile pleasures. Using regular table butter is just fine, but replacing it with a quick compound butter makes corn on the cob seem like more of a dinner party dish. Plus, the flavor of the three different fats together feels unexpected, as does the heat from the chili flakes and the cool of the parsley. The method for toasting the chili flakes is tried and true for me (an unabashed multitasker known for burning spices by forgetting them in the pan). ½ cup neutral oil ½ teaspoon chili flakes 4 ounces butter, at room temperature ½ teaspoon salt 2 ounces Parmesan, grated ¾ cup parsley, leaves only, chopped 6 ears corn, shucked

1. Heat the neutral oil in a frying pan until it begins to smoke. Add the chili flakes and remove from the heat. Let steep in the oil for 10 minutes.

2. In a stand mixer or a bowl, combine the butter, salt, chili oil, Parmesan and parsley.

Paddle until well combined. Taste and add salt as needed.

3. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment on the counter and spoon on the butter in a strip. Gently roll into a round log, tightening with each pass and chill until firm (this butter can be frozen for later use).

4. When you’re ready to grill, heat a grill at medium to high heat.

5. Cut the butter into coins.

6. Grill the corn until the kernels are golden brown and slightly charred. Top with the butter rounds and serve immediately.

summer 2019 real food 43

BROCCOLI SALAD WITH WARM BACON VINAIGRETTE, SUNFLOWER SEEDS AND DRIED CHERRIES

44 real food summer 2019

Broccoli Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, Sunflower Seeds and Dried Cherries MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is a version of a classic Midwestern summer buffet salad with a warm bacon dressing in place of the mayo. It can be made in advance, but always serve room temperature or the bacon fat will congeal a bit. If you prefer mayo or don’t eat bacon, substitute mayonnaise or vinaigrette for the bacon fat and extra olive oil. ½ pound bacon, cut into ¼-inch strips 1 (4-ounce) shallot or small red onion, cut into thin slices ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 8 cups broccoli, shaved thinly or cut into florets, stalks peeled and cut into half-moons 1 cup dried cherries, either sweet or sour ½ cup sunflower seeds, toasted

1. Place the bacon in a cold frying pan and then cook over medium heat until the bacon is crispy, rendering the bacon fat.

2. In a bowl, combine the shallot, vinegar, salt and pepper and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Strain the bacon fat into the shallot-vinegar mixture, reserving the crispy pieces. Add the olive oil to the mixture and whisk to combine.

4. Toss the broccoli, bacon bits, cherries and sunflower seeds with the bacon vinaigrette and a pinch of salt.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Note: Raw broccoli can be simply bite-size pieces of broccoli. I also like shaving the broccoli into thin, cross-section broccoli trees. To shave broccoli, simply cut the crown in half, place the cut-side down, and slice as thinly as possible. In the end, it doesn’t matter the shape of the broccoli as long as it is pleasant to chew.

KALE W. TOMATOES, MOZZARELLA & WILD RICE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 409 (172 from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 9g); SODIUM 211mg; CARB 45g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 19g

CHARRED GREEN BEANS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 419 (317 from fat); FAT 36g (sat. 4g); SODIUM 357mg; CARB 20g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 7g

Sweet Pea Toasts MAKES 4 SERVINGS

There are very few dishes that my family asks for over and over again.

This pea dip is one of them. It stores in the refrigerator and freezes well.

2 cups peas, preferably frozen ¼ teaspoon chili flakes ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 lemon, zest and juice ¼ cup cream 5 sprigs mint, roughly chopped 1 baguette or loaf of sourdough edible flowers (optional)

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Boil the peas until bright green, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Drain completely and transfer to a food processor. Add the chili flakes, salt, olive oil, and lemon zest and juice and blend until mostly smooth.

Add the cream and blend to combine. Fold in the mint.

3. Slice and toast the bread, schmear with the pea purée, and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil and some edible flowers if you’re feeling fancy.

Cook’s Note: As with most purées in this book, you can use day-old vegetables as a way to breathe new life into leftovers. It will be easier to blend and make a smoother purée if the peas are warm. Snap and snow peas will not blend well no matter what. 

GRILLED CORN W. BUTTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 435 (330 from fat); FAT 38g (sat. 13g); SODIUM 454mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 7g

BROCCOLI SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 822 (558 from fat); FAT 63g (sat. 20g); SODIUM 691mg; CARB 53g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 16g

SWEET PEA TOASTS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 454 (302 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 6g); SODIUM 729mg; CARB 31g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 8g

summer 2019 real food 45

Korean Barbecue Fire up your grill with a fusion of flavors RECIPES BY XXXXXXX RECIPES BY BILL KIM

HONEY SOY FLANK STEAK WITH SOY BALSAMIC SAUCE

46 real food summer 2019

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his grilling season, skip the same-old fare and “kung fu” your barbecue for a deliciously different taste.

What does a Chinese martial arts term mean when it comes to Korean barbecue? According to award-

winning Chicago restaurateur Bill Kim, who was born in Korea and raised in the American Midwest—and a fan of Bruce Lee movies—it’s all about adapting and perfecting your skills through hard work, creativity and patience.

Kim, along with Chandra Ram, does a lot of the “kung fu” work for you in his book, “Korean BBQ,” and successfully shows that you don’t need to have a background in cooking traditional Korean food to create these recipes. Kim brings the two cultures together and translates the best of Korea’s mystifying sauces and rubs in an approachable way for home cooking. Kim’s wish is for people to have fun—we’re barbecuing here—so gather friends and family, hang out, have a good time and eat really delicious food. That’s what life is all about. —Mary Subialka

Honey Soy Flank Steak

Soy Balsamic Sauce

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 1 CUP

This is one amazing steak. It’s simple to prepare and you get maximum flavor in a short period of time.

Flank steak is a lean cut, so be careful you don’t overcook it; medium-rare is ideal. Piercing the steak with a fork before marinating it is key to getting all of the rich, tangy, sweet flavors of the marinade throughout the meat.

This recipe is very dear to my heart, as it was my first attempt to use ingredients that didn’t normally go together, but made sense to me.

In Asian cooking, vinegar is often used to cut saltiness from soy sauce or other ingredients. For me, balsamic vinegar has the perfect mix of sweetness, acidity and body to combine with the brown sugar and soy sauce here.

1 cup Soy Balsamic Sauce (See recipe right) ⅓ cup vegetable oil ¼ cup honey 3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 1 tablespoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons chili powder 3 pounds flank steak

1. Combine the Soy Balsamic Sauce, oil, honey, vinegar, salt and chili powder in a bowl and whisk until well mixed. Place the flank steak in a large, shallow dish and pierce it all over with a fork. Pour the marinade over the steak and turn the steak to coat evenly. Cover and marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.

2. Heat the grill for direct heat cooking to medium (350° to 375°F).

3. Place the steak on the grill grate and cook, turning it once, for 3 to 4 minutes on each side for medium-rare.

You can cook it a minute or two longer if you prefer your steak cooked medium, but flank steak should not be cooked past medium or it will become chewy.

4. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak against the grain, arrange the slices on a serving platter, and serve.

1 teaspoon cornstarch, or as needed 2 tablespoons water ¼ cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed ½ cup balsamic vinegar ½ cup soy sauce

1. In a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and water until the cornstarch dissolves and the mixture is the consistency of heavy cream, adding more cornstarch if the mixture is too thin.

2. Combine the brown sugar, vinegar and soy sauce in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Stir the cornstarch mixture briefly to recombine, then stir it into the soy-vinegar mixture and simmer over low heat for about 3 minutes, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.

3. Remove from the heat, let cool completely, then refrigerate in an airtight container. This sauce will last for months without going bad.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM “KOREAN BBQ: MASTER YOUR GRILL IN SEVEN SAUCES,” COPYRIGHT ©2018 BY BILL KIM WITH CHANDRA RAM. PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED PRESS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE LLC. PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT ©2018 BY JOHNNY AUTRY.

summer 2019 real food 47

SLOW-GRILLED KO-RICAN-STYLE BABY BACK RIBS

48 real food summer 2019

Slow-Grilled Ko-Rican-Style Baby Back Ribs

Ko-Rican Sauce

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Once I married a Puerto Rican woman, my food became what we call a little Ko-Rican, and that’s what this sauce is all about.

I learned this recipe from my mother-in-law, Dolores Alicea, aka Doe or Lola. Let me tell you, the best Puerto Rican restaurant in town is her house! When I tasted her turkey lechon at our first Thanksgiving together, it was all over for me. The bright flavors, the spiciness from the garlic, the tanginess from the vinegar— everything was new to me. From the moment I tasted her sauces, I knew I had to learn how to make them. I never put vinegar in my marinades until I met Lola, but I understood why cooks put alcohol in marinades, and this is similar: It tenderizes and accentuates the flavors. Now, her cooking is part of my DNA. I had to add it to my arsenal of kitchen techniques, but of course, I made a few changes to kung fu it.

The key to cooking these ribs on the grill is to do it low and slow. That means over indirect heat so the ribs are next to, rather than directly over, the fire and the lid is closed. This method turns the grill into an outdoor oven, and the ribs don’t burn on the outside before turning soft and tender on the inside.

I always want to grab one of these straight off the grill, but you’ll burn yourself on the hot bones if you don’t wait for a few minutes—trust me on that!

1½ cups Ko-Rican Sauce (See recipe right) 1½ cups Lemongrass Chili Sauce (See recipe right) 2 tablespoons ground black pepper 3 (3-pound) racks baby back pork ribs

1. Combine the Ko-Rican Sauce, chili sauce and pepper in a large, shallow dish and mix well. Add the ribs and turn to coat evenly. Marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. Heat the grill for indirect heat cooking to medium-low (300°F to 325°F). (If using a charcoal grill, rake the coals to one side of the charcoal grate; if using a gas grill, turn off half of the burners.)

3. While the grill is heating, lay a large sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil on a work surface. Remove a rack of ribs from the marinade, place in the center of the foil, and then spoon some of the marinade onto the ribs. Bring the sides of the foil together, wrapping the ribs tightly and securing the seams closed. Place the packet on a second large sheet of foil and wrap the packet in the foil, sealing the edges and corners securely to make sure no liquid will escape. Repeat the process with the remaining racks.

4. Place the ribs in an ovenproof skillet or even in the grill’s drip pan, then place the pan on the grill grate away from direct heat. Close the lid and cook the ribs for 2 hours. If using a charcoal grill, add hot coals to the fire as needed to maintain the temperature.

5. Remove the foil-wrapped ribs from the grill and let the packet rest for about 10 minutes. Then unwrap the package, saving the foil and all of the juices collected in it. Work carefully, as the ribs will be very hot and tender, and they can break apart.

6. Increase the heat of the grill to medium-high (400°F to 450°F). Place the ribs, meat side down, directly on the grate over the fire and cook for 5 minutes. Flip the ribs over and cook for 2 to 4 minutes on the other side, until they have a little char.

Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.

7. Cut the ribs apart and arrange them on one or more serving platters. Spoon the juices from the foil packet over the ribs and serve.

Kung Fu It: If you don’t have time to cook the ribs fully on the grill (or want to get a head start), you can cook them in a 300°F oven for 2 hours, then finish them on the grill to caramelize the exterior and capture all that flavor from the fire.

MAKES 1½ CUPS

2 tablespoons sweet paprika 2 tablespoons dried oregano 2 tablespoons chili powder 2 tablespoons Madras curry powder ¼ cup salt ½ cup distilled white vinegar 26 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup olive oil

1. Combine the paprika, oregano, chili powder, curry powder, salt, vinegar, garlic and oil in a small bowl and whisk until well mixed.

2. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up 2 weeks or freeze for up to 2 months.

Lemongrass Chili Sauce MAKES 2¼ CUPS

The inspiration for this recipe came from a trip to Thailand I took a few years ago. Those sweet, spicy, citrusy flavors come right back to me every time I make it. You can use this sauce for braising chicken or for making dipping sauces or glazes for fried appetizers, but I like it best for barbecue. It’s thick enough to cling to the meat, adds a good char from all the sugars that caramelize on the grill, and delivers the spicy, fresh flavors of Thailand.

1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon minced, peeled fresh ginger ¼ cup minced lemongrass 1 cup sweet chili sauce ¼ cup fish sauce ¼ cup sambal oelek chili paste 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1. Combine the garlic, ginger, lemongrass, chili sauce, fish sauce, sambal oelek and oil in a bowl and whisk until blended.

2. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 2 months

summer 2019 real food 49

LEMONGRASS CHICKEN

50 real food summer 2019

Lemongrass Chicken

Curry Salt

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES ½ CUP

I think we’ve lost the art of cooking chicken on the bone.

The bones impart flavor to the meat and help the meat cook evenly. For this recipe, you’re going to cook the chicken in the sauce in foil packets, so the chicken braises in the sweet sauce as it slowly cooks on the grill. The foil packet keeps the meat moist while cooking it evenly. Make sure you use heavy-duty foil in this recipe, and at least two layers of it.

Plain salt is boring! I want more flavor when I season something.

When I cooked in high-end French restaurants, I was taught to be restrained in my seasoning. But once I started making my own food, I realized that I didn’t have to follow that rule, and I didn’t have to use plain salt when I could make something with more flavor. This robustly flavored salt is an essential component of how we season food at our restaurants. It helps us build those subtle flavors that you can’t quite identify but know are what make the food so tasty.

NUTRITION

2 tablespoons Curry Salt (See recipe right) 2 tablespoons Blackening Seasoning (See recipe right) 4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, thighs, and drumsticks, in any combination 2 cups Lemongrass Chili Sauce (See recipe page 49) 1 lemon, halved

1. Combine the Curry Salt and Blackening Seasoning in a small bowl and stir to mix. Season the chicken on both sides with the mixture, placing the pieces on a large sheet pan as they are coated. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

2. Heat the grill for indirect heat cooking to medium (350°F to 375°F). If using a charcoal grill, rake the coals to one side of the charcoal grate; if using a gas grill, turn off half of the burners.

3. Stack two good-size sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil on a work surface. Place 3 pieces of the chicken in a single layer in the center of the foil. Spoon some of the chili sauce over the chicken, coating both sides, and then bring the sides of the foil together, wrapping the chicken tightly and sealing the edges and corners securely to make sure no liquid will escape. Repeat with the remaining chicken and chili sauce, using 3 pieces of chicken for each packet.

4. Place the foil packets on the grill grate away from the heat, close the lid, and cook for 45 minutes. Check the temperature of the cooked chicken by pushing a meat thermometer through the foil; don’t try to unwrap the chicken first. Transfer the packets from the grill to a counter or work surface and let rest for 10 minutes.

5. Open the packets, working carefully because the steam is hot, and transfer the chicken to a serving platter. Spoon the sauce from the packets over the chicken, squeeze the lemon halves over the top, and serve.

HONEY SOY FLANK STEAK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 404 (129 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 4g); SODIUM 1313mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 56g

¼ cup Madras curry powder ¼ cup kosher salt 1 tablespoon shichimi togarashi

1. Combine the curry powder, salt and shichimi togarashi in a small bowl and stir to mix. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard for up to 6 months Editor’s Note: Shichimi togarashi is a peppery, complex Japanese blend of seven spices including dried chilies, dried orange peel, dried garlic, ground nori, sesame seeds and hemp seeds. While not exactly the same, you can substitute with Korean Chili flakes and black sesame seeds if you can’t find it.

Blackening Seasoning MAKES ¾ CUP

When I was a kid, I used to watch Justin Wilson’s “Cookin’ Cajun” TV show after school; it came on right after the “Tom and Jerry” cartoons.

I loved it when he’d lean into the camera and tell you, “Ou-wheeeee!

I garontee you’ll like this!” Watching those old shows still makes me laugh, but his food was serious. He cooked with rice and crayfish, so it kind of reminded me of the Korean food from home. In a way, he was my Julia Child. I’m still a huge fan of Cajun food, and I’ll pick up a jar of hot pickled okra (which is kind of like kimchi) at the store and eat it in the car. I can’t stop myself—sometimes I finish it before I even get home! As Justin would say, “I garontee” this seasoning will become part of your cooking! ¼ cup sweet paprika ¼ cup granulated garlic or garlic powder ¼ cup chili powder 2 teaspoons kosher salt

1. Combine the paprika, granulated garlic, chili powder and salt in a small bowl and stir to mix.

2. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard for up to 6 months. 

KO-RICAN-STYLE BABY BACK RIBS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1065 (673 from fat); FAT 75g (sat.

24g); SODIUM 4210mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 75g Note: If sodium level is a concern, consider reducing the salt in the Ko-Rican Sauce portion of the recipe.

LEMONGRASS CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 492 (190 from fat); FAT 21g (sat.

5g); SODIUM 2567mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 48g

summer 2019 real food 51

Greek Food Today Diane Kochilas shares delicious twists from her kitchen to yours

I

t was the spanakopita grilled cheese that got me. There, on TV, was Diane Kochilas, often known as the Greek Food Guru, sandwiching spinach pie filling between two pieces of bread and giving it the American grilled cheese treatment. It was the sort of riff on a classic dish that could have come off as sacrilege, but in her hands—broadcast from her Athens, Greece, kitchen on her own PBS show—it seemed entirely natural, not to mention delicious.

For 30 years, Kochilas has built her career on bringing Greek cuisine to the masses, whether it’s through books—18 at last count—or on TV, on her own shows as well as those of stars including Martha Stewart, Bobby Flay and Andrew Zimmern. She has been filing stories on the country’s foodways for major newspapers and magazines for the three decades, and has run the Glorious Greek Cooking School on her ancestral island of Ikaria since 2003.

Respected institutions such as the Culinary Institute of America and Harvard have tapped her for her expertise, and so have numerous restaurateurs. She has consulted for Pylos and Molyvos, two of the top Greek restaurants in New York City, as well as Avli in Chicago and Volos in Toronto. She is currently the consulting chef for Committee in Boston.

Her latest book, however, is a departure from her usual deep dive into the specifics of a place. Instead, it reflects on what she cooks in her own home. “My Greek Table,” a large, lushly illustrated volume that grew out of her PBS show of the same name, is a fascinating peek into what real Greek cooking is today. It captures the feel of a cuisine that’s alive and vital, as diverse as the people who flow through the country and as sensitive to the politics, economics and time pressures as any. Spanakopita sandwiches instead of a phyllo pie? Heck yes. And with a side of her tahini-avocado dip, please.

It took Kochilas a while to get to this point. In part, it’s the double-edged sword of being a foreigner in an adopted land. She is American, the daughter of a Greek immigrant who married a Greek-Italian from Brooklyn and was born in Queens, the largest borough of New York City. “My dad cooked—he worked as a cook in the merchant marine—but he passed

52 real food summer 2019

away when I was a kid,” she tells me from Athens, where she has lived since 1992.

While she came to Greek food free from the constraints that tradition and familiarity can enforce, she also had to work hard to discover what the locals know inherently.

Her exposure to real Greek food was limited until she was 12. “My mother, in her infinite wisdom, wanted to keep a young teenager off the streets of New York in the 1970s,” Kochilas explains. “She was a working mom then, and what was I to do alone in the summer? So she sent me with my older sister to Greece.”

She landed in Ikaria, her father’s homeland, and the connection was instantaneous.

“I can’t even begin to describe it,” Kochilas says. “I couldn’t even really speak much Greek. I just remember this feeling of, ‘Wow, this place is really special.’ ” She continued to spend nearly every summer in Greece before heading off to New York University to study journalism. “I’ve always been a writer since I was a little kid,” she reflects.

Although she found work as an editor at a

PHOTO THOMAS JASTRAM - ADOBE STOCK

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

KOCHILAS GEORGE VITSARAS

IKARIA, GREECE

magazine afterward, she always returned to Greece. “I can’t get through the year if I don’t spend the summer in Ikaria,” she says, only partly joking.

The island is special, even among the 6,000 that Greece boasts, she says.“Culturally, it’s very different. There’s no natural port, so it was never a stopover on any trade routes, and because the waters around it are very rough, it was always a place of exile, the place the politically unwanted were sent. As a result, there’s an open-mindedness that’s part of people’s DNA and a strong sense of solidarity. It’s also not a particularly materialistic place, so it’s a breath of fresh air.”

It also happens to be full of exceptionally healthy people, something Kochilas noted long before the New York Times Magazine trumpeted Ikaria as part of the “Blue Zone,” where life expectancy far exceeds the norm.

On Ikaria, one in three people live beyond 90, and few ever develop heart disease or dementia. The old people may be wrinkled and stooped with age, but they are still gathering in cafes and climbing the stone steps

to church. “People are walking everywhere and gardening—bending, stretching, killing the lambs,” Kochilas says.

That’s the place where Kochilas’ approach to food began to take shape. “It’s the Mediterranean diet,” she explains. “Lots of foraged foods—mushrooms, wild greens and herbs—simply prepared. And seasonal —the cuisine is based on really fresh food in season.” While she eats meat, Kochilas thralls to the diversity and resourcefulness of Greek cooks when it comes to plantbased cuisine. “Greece probably has more vegetable main courses than any other cuisine in the Mediterranean,” she says. “There are all sorts of beans and pulses, and all sorts of greens and vegetables, that are steamed or stewed with a lot of olive oil.”

Reading “My Greek Table,” it’s clear just how resourceful and creative Greeks have been over the centuries, taking humble ingredients and preparing them in countless flavorful ways, often influenced by the myriad cultures that have left their impressions on the land. There are the ravioli that nod to the Venetians who once occupied parts of Greece and that Kochilas moves into the modern era by using wonton wrappers instead of handrolled pasta. The five eggplant dishes come from Lesvos, an island she says claims at least

22 unique recipes—a nod to the island’s proximity to Turkey. This means that when you turn to a recipe for Greek Honey Hot Sauce, it doesn’t come across as strange; rather, it’s Kochilas doing what Greeks have always done—absorbing influences and making a dish her own. That particular recipe was inspired by staff meals she has had while working in professional kitchens, many of which are staffed by Mexicans. “Staff meals are always these cultural hybrids,” she says.

“Some of my best cooking is in fact those dishes. And I like spicy.”

But if you want to cook like a Greek, it’s best to start with the basics—and the basics are terrifically easy. All you’ll need is a bottle of good Greek olive oil and a lemon. “Greeks are the third largest producers and first in consumption of olive oil,” Kochilas tells me, “and we love lemon.” Lemon juice, in fact, combined with olive oil, makes up what she calls “the most fundamental flavor profile in the Greek kitchen.” Whip together one part lemon juice with three parts olive oil, and you have ladolemeno, a creamy dressing traditionally poured over vegetables and grilled fish. At home Kochilas will sometimes use it in place of mayonnaise dressing in a coleslaw, or add extra lemon so she can make a Greek-accented ceviche.

DIANE KOCHILAS

summer 2019 real food 53

—Diane Kochilas

RECIPE AND PHOTO FROM “FROM MY GREEK TABLE” BY DIANE KOCHILAS. ©2018

BY THE AUTHOR AND REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF ST. MARTIN'S GRIFFIN. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY VASILIS STENOS FOOD STYLING BY CAROLINA DORITI

54 real food summer 2019

The other difference is how people eat.

While the average Athenian’s daily schedule now looks all too much just like a New Yorker’s, complete with work-desk lunches and rushed dinners, the epitome of a good meal still means a varied selection of mezes— little plates—to be enjoyed over a drink with family and friends. “There’s no fast rule,” Kochilas says when I ask her how many plates there should be, and what sorts. “The real rule is to have variety—in terms of textures, you’ll want spreads that are soft, as well as things that are crunchy; you’ll want dishes of varied heat levels, some spicy and others milder.” The only constraint as to how many dishes to make is your energy level, she says, but even then, the work can be spread over the course of days.

“Dips you can do a day or two ahead of time; phyllo pies, whether individual or whole, you can make ahead and freeze raw, then bake them to order. And a lot of mezes are served at room temperature, so you don’t have to worry about serving them just out of the oven.

That goes for all sorts of things, even braised bean dishes and pies,” she says.

As for what to make, well, perhaps the most important lesson to take away from “My Greek Table” is that to cook like a Greek, you don’t have to stick to any recipe. “You sort of know what your guests like,” Kochilas says, adding, “and recipes evolve. The chicken keftedes: That came out of my own head. In Greece we’d more likely use pork or lamb, but that was one that was on the menu at Committee, and we were keeping in mind what people in the U.S. like to eat.” And whereas Greeks would likely serve them with a garlickly yogurt sauce, Kochilas might opt for fresh peas in the summer, whirring them with olive oil and herbs until silky and bright green.

Then Kochilas hesitates. “There is one rule,” she admits. “But it concerns what to serve for a drink. Generally, anything that swims goes well with ouzo or grappa—what we call tsipouro—and everything that walks goes well with wine.” But then again, this is Greece. “Of course that’s not to say that with grilled shrimp, you might not want to have a nice white wine,” she says, and I can practically hear her wink. Anything goes—as long as it’s fresh, seasonal and seasoned with plenty of lemon and olive oil. 

TELEVISION STILL GEORGE VITSARAS

“Greeks are the third largest producer and first in consumption of olive oil and we love lemon … the most fundamental flavor profile in the Greek kitchen.”

Interestingly, there’s a bonus beyond taste for blending the two. “The lemon actually helps make the nutrients in foods more available to your body, especially when you’re cooking anything with greens,” she says. “There’s this folk knowledge about it in Greece. Many people don’t know the reasoning behind it; they just do it naturally.” She calls out spanakorizo, a popular dish of rice cooked with spinach, as an example. “The spinach and rice make a complete protein; you squeeze lemon over it, and that makes it much easier for your body to absorb the iron. There are a lot of little secrets like that, that people know innately.”

To add extra flavor to a dish, Greeks tend to look to herbs rather than spice. “That’s not to say [Greeks] don’t use spices—certainly cinnamon and nutmeg, allspice and cumin are fairly common—but the use of herbs is more pronounced,” she says. “And the use of herbs as medicine is still a living tradition; people will make all sorts of herbal teas for all sorts of ailments.”

And Kochilas admits to a few “secret weapons” in the kitchen, like dried-mushroom powder, even though there’s nothing particularly Greek about it. “I just grind dried mushrooms and add the powder to meat and darkflavored dishes,” she explains. And she’s not shy about salt, which intensifies flavors. “The fear of salt in the U.S. is because people eat so much processed foods that they are getting much more salt than they need,” she says. If you lay off the processed foods, there’s no reason to leave off the salt, or to avoid the capers, feta, taramasalata and other saline ingredients that spike so many Greek dishes.

All that said, there are a few differences that take attention to bridge. One is the vegetables themselves. “I just had a conversation with a friend a few nights ago about a pumpkin moussaka recipe she loves, but she was complaining that the pumpkin tends to be watery,” Kochilas relates. “That’s because, in the U.S., everything tends to be overwatered and less flavorful. Greece is quite a dry country, and people don’t water their plants as much, so the fruit here, from olives to strawberries, tends to be intensely flavored.” The difference can require some adjusting. For example, in Kochilas’s take on the recipe in “My Greek Table,” she has replaced pumpkin with a combination of the tighter-fleshed butternut squash as well as sweet potatoes.

Baked Chicken Keftedes

Spring Fresh Pea Puree

MAKES 6 MEZE (APPETIZER) SERVINGS

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

Classic Greek meatballs are made with either ground pork, lamb, beef or a combination thereof. Here’s a lighter version, flavored the classic way with plenty of onions, a little garlic and a lot of mint—the telltale herb in all Greek meatballs. Serve these with tzatziki, fresh pea fava, feta cheese dips or yogurt dressings.

Fava is one of the all-time classic Greek meze [appetizer] recipes, most often made with yellow split peas cooked until they disintegrate into a puree. … Here's a contemporary idea that calls for using fresh or frozen peas. It works well as a sandwich spread or spooned over bruschetta, and it pairs beautifully with ouzo-seared shrimp or grilled or fried seafood.

2 pounds ground chicken or turkey

3 garlic cloves, minced 2 red onions, finely chopped 1 large egg, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons extra virgin Greek olive oil, plus more for frying 1/2 teaspoon paprika 2/3 cup chopped fresh mint 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley 1/2 to 1 cup panko bread crumbs salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. In a large bowl, combine the ground chicken, garlic, onions, egg, olive oil, paprika, mint, parsley and 1/2 cup of the panko. Season with salt and pepper and mix to combine. Test for firm­ness by shaping one meatball. If it holds its shape, don't add any more of the panko; if it comes apart, add more of the panko, a tablespoon at a time, until the mixture is firm enough to hold its shape when formed into a meatball.

2. Heat a little olive oil in a small skillet. Take a teaspoon of the mixture and fry it to test for seasoning; adjust accordingly.

3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Form the mixture into 1-tablespoon meatballs. Place them on the prepared baking sheet in neat rows. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 6 hours.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Uncover and bake the meatballs for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown, turning gently with a spatula or kitchen tongs, until browned on all sides. Remove from the oven and serve.

2 cups fresh or frozen shelled peas

1/2 cup ouzo, or 1 star anise pod 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1/3 to 2/3 cup extra virgin Greek olive oil juice of 1 lemon, plus more as needed, strained Greek sea salt or kosher salt freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or red onion scant 1 teaspoon whole pink peppercorns 2 tablespoons crumbled Greek feta 1. Place the peas in a medium saucepan and add water to cover and the ouzo or star anise. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until tender, about 3 minutes for fresh peas, 3 to 5 minutes for frozen. Drain (discard the star anise, if you used it).

2. Transfer the hot peas to the bowl of a food processor.

Add the parsley and tarragon. While pulsing on and off, add enough of the olive oil and lemon juice in alternating increments to achieve a smooth, silky puree. Season with salt and black pepper to taste.

3. Transfer the fava to a serving dish and garnish with the chives, pink peppercorns and feta.

Tip: Do not salt the water when boiling peas because doing so toughens them up.

summer 2019 real food 55

pairings

Burger Buddies Take your cue from a burger’s toppings when making a match with wine

BY MARY SUBIALKA

T

hick, juicy burgers are a gloriously delicious part of the summer grilling season. In general, any ground beef burger will have some slightly sweet vanilla and earthy flavors contributed by smokiness and a caramelized flavor from the meat’s charred sugars. A wine with richness, fruit flavor and a decent amount of acidity or tannins will pair well with those characteristics. It’s hard to go wrong with a cool Beaujolais, Merlot or Pinot Noir with a basic burger.

Flavors contributed by the various toppings you choose to add to the mix can also be a way to select tasty wine partners:

- Classic lettuce, tomato, raw onion, ketchup and mayonnaise: Aussie Shiraz or California Syrah pair well with this flavor combo.

- Pickle relish and yellow mustard: White Zinfandel’s soft and fruity characters offer balance. A sparkling wine may also be a nice match.

If sweet pickle relish is on its own, try Gewürztraminer.

- Avocado, cucumber and sprouts: Sauvignon Blanc is good for white wine fans, Merlot for fans of red.

- Bold cheeses, such as blue cheese or sharp cheddar: Cabernet Sauvignon can stand up to the strong flavors of the cheese while the meat’s richness softens the wine’s tannins.

- Bacon and cheddar: Spanish Rioja has its own smoky flavor that goes well with the bacon.

- Grilled onions and mustard: White Zinfandel’s soft fruit flavor balances the onions and tart condiment.

So fire up the grill, ponder your spread of toppings, and uncork some delicious burger buddies—the grilling season provides ample opportunity to experiment with nuances of pairing so you can find your perfect match. 

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food summer 2019

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