A Different Side of Summer

Switch up your side dishes and bring more flavor, texture and color to the table

BY ROBIN ASBELL

We all know you can grill a steak with the best of them. But how is your side dish game? Have you been serving the same old salads for years? There is more to life than basic potato salad and steamed vegetables. It’s time to freshen up your repertoire with a few new offerings and show a different side to summer.

Whether you are making a dish to serve with burgers on a weeknight or taking a contribution to a picnic or party, the sides are where you can jazz things up and add flavors, colors and textures to the meal. The sides are also where the vegetables, fruits and grains are represented, so you’re doing everyone a favor by enticing them to eat more plants.

If you’re still in love with the classics, keep their same spirit but shake them up. Take potato salad. Mayonnaise is nice, but why not dress those tender potatoes with savory, herby pesto instead? For a twist on pasta salad, you’ll find that Creamy Cavatappi with Veggies goes well with so many meals, it will become a regular in your rotation—you can also make it a main dish with the option to add chicken. If fruit salad is your go-to, jazz it up with Cantaloupe Caprese on a Stick. Skewers of melon balls, mozzarella balls and sweet basil leaves make an irresistible picnic treat.

Try grain salads such as this easy Lemony Quinoa Kale Salad, plus get a side lesson in how to tenderize shredded kale in a tangy dressing. If you are making a Mexican meal, you can’t go wrong with a bright yellow Elotes Rice Salad, which puts the sweet corn of the season on display. Slide in a fun side with Zucchini Stuffed with Cheesy Rice, a pretty presentation that will have the kids—and grownups—eating their veggies and loving it.

Cavatappi with Creamy Chevre and Veggies MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Instead of making a sauce and then adding cheese, this dish has cheese pureed into a light, tangy yogurt sauce. Creamy chevre and yogurt combine with healthy olive oil for a flavorful sauce that isn’t too heavy or rich for summertime. If you are cooking for people who don’t love goat cheese, you can always substitute cream cheese for a milder taste.

1 pound cavatappi or spiral pasta 1 large carrot, shredded 6 cups baby spinach, chopped (about 6 ounces) 1/2 cup frozen peas 2 ounces chevre cheese 1/2 cup Greek yogurt 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest 8 ounces roasted chicken breast (optional)

1. Put a large pot of salted water on the stove over high heat for cooking the pasta. Prep the carrots, keeping them separate, chop spinach and thaw peas and reserve. When the water boils, cook the pasta according to package directions with the carrot, about 10 minutes. While the pasta and carrot cook, place the spinach and peas in a large colander and place it in the sink. 2. While the pasta cooks, place the chevre or cream cheese in a food processor and process until smooth, scraping and repeating if necessary. Add the yogurt and oil and process until smooth and well mixed. Add the salt and lemon zest and process to mix. 3. When the pasta is done, pour the boiling water, pasta and carrots over the spinach and peas in the colander, draining the hot pasta and carrots on top of them. Shake the colander to drain as much water as possible. Return pasta and vegetables to the pot. 4. Scrape the contents of the processor over the pasta and vegetables in the pot, and turn and toss to coat evenly. 5. Serve at room temperature or chilled. If desired, shred 8 ounces roasted chicken breast and toss with the pasta. It will keep for 4 days, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.

Lemony Quinoa Kale Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Quinoa cooks in just 15 minutes, which is plenty of time to prep the kale and dressing to finish the dish. The secret to making delicious kale is not cooking it, but “massaging” it with an acidic dressing so that the sturdy structure of the leaves is broken down and the dressing seeps into the cells of the leaves. You can boost the protein in this dish and make it a vegetarian main course by adding a can of black beans or chickpeas.

1 cup quinoa 11/2 cups water 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 cups chopped kale, packed, about half a bunch 1/4 cup slivered red onions 3 large tomatoes, cubed canned black beans or chickpeas (optional)

1. In a small pot over high heat, bring water to a boil, then stir in the quinoa. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook for 15 minutes until all the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and uncover, fluff and let cool. 2. In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, sugar and salt and whisk to mix. Add the kale and toss, then knead and massage with your fingers for 1 or 2 minutes to soften and break down the kale in the dressing. Let stand while the quinoa cools, then add the onion, tomatoes and cooled quinoa and toss to mix. Serve immediately or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Cheesy Stuffed Zucchini MAKES 4 TO 8 SERVINGS

With zucchini in season, summer is a good time to feature this prolific squash with a delectable stuffing. The zucchini only need to be steamed for a few minutes to make them tender and sweet, then drained to draw out excess moisture. A bountiful filling of cheesy rice will make sure everyone puts one on their plate.

4 (8-ounce) zucchini, about 8 inches long 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 large shallot, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 2 cups vegetable stock 1 cup basmati rice 1 cup (4 ounces) shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese 1/4 cup chopped parsley

1. Set up a collapsible steamer in a wide Dutch oven so that it opens to make a flat surface. Pour in water so that it doesn’t come up over the steamer. 2. Cut each zucchini in half lengthwise, leaving the stem on. Use a small spoon to scoop out the seeds and form a smooth cavity in each zucchini. 3. Place the zucchini in the steamer, cut sides down, stacking them as if you were building a log cabin, so their flesh is exposed to the steam. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes. While the zucchini steam, spread a double layer of kitchen towels on the counter. When the zucchini are tender, transfer them, cut side down, to the towel in a single layer. Allow them to cool and drain while you cook the rice. 4. In a 2-quart pot, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the shallot. Stir for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to mediumlow. Cook, stirring, for about 4 minutes, then add the garlic and thyme and cook for 2 more minutes. 5. Add the salt, pepper and vegetable stock and raise the heat to high. Bring to a boil. Add the basmati rice, return to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 15 minutes. When all the liquids are absorbed, take the rice off the heat and let cool completely. 6. Stir the shredded cheese and parsley into the cooled rice. Preheat the oven to 375°F. 7. Place the cooled zucchini, cut side up, on a sheet pan with a rim. It’s fine if they are touching. Carefully spoon the rice mixture into the cavity of each zucchini, mounding it up to make a rounded shape. Tap gently with the back of the spoon to pack the rice in and smooth the tops. When all the zucchinis are filled, bake for 15 minutes, until the zucchinis are heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve hot.

Elotes Rice Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Elotes is the addictive street-food sweet corn sold in Mexico that is growing in popularity in the U.S. Grilled or steamed corn on the cob is slathered with lime and mayonnaise, then sprinkled with chili powder and crumbled fresh cheese. This salad puts the flavors of elotes and yellow rice in one dish. If you are grilling in the days before making this salad, grill 4 extra ears of corn on the cob, and use the kernels in this salad for a slightly smoky, charred taste.

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 small shallot, minced 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 1 cup basmati rice 11/2 cups water 1/2 teaspoon salt 4 ears corn on the cob, to make 3 cups kernels (or leftover grilled corn) 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/2 teaspoon chili powder, plus more for garnish 2 scallions, chopped 1 large red bell pepper, chopped 1 cup (4 ounces) cotija cheese, crumbled 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves

1. In a medium saucepan, warm half of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and stir until softened, about 1 minute, then add turmeric and stir for 1 minute. Add the rice and stir until it is hot and well coated with oil. Add the water and salt and increase the heat to bring to a boil, then reduce to low, cover and cook for about 15 minutes. When all the water is absorbed, remove the rice from the heat and let stand for at least 5 minutes before uncovering and letting cool completely. Reserve. 2. If using grilled corn, just cut the corn from the cobs. To cook raw corn, cut the corn from the cobs, then drizzle the remaining olive oil in a large skillet and place it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the corn and sauté for about 3 minutes, until lightly browned and crisp-tender. Let cool completely. 3. When the corn has cooled, transfer to a large bowl and add the mayonnaise, lime and chili powder and stir to mix. Stir in scallions, red pepper and cotija cheese, then add the cooled rice and fold into the mixture. 4. Serve in a bowl, sprinkled with cilantro and, if desired, more chili powder. If not serving immediately, cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Cantaloupe Caprese on a Stick MAKES 12 SKEWERS

The classic flavors of a Caprese salad are just as delectable with juicy cantaloupe in place of tomatoes. Shaking it up a little with the fruity melon balls, skewered on sticks, will make sure everyone wants one—or two. Boiling balsamic vinegar for about 10 minutes allows you to create a simple, syrupy glaze to drizzle over the skewers for a tangysweet finish.

1 cup balsamic vinegar 12 (6-inch) wooden skewers 3 pounds cantaloupe 1 pound fresh mozzarella balls (1-inch wide “cherry size”) 48 fresh basil leaves

1. Place the balsamic vinegar in a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, reduce to a vigorous simmer and cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. 2. Make 36 melon balls. On each skewer, thread 1 cantaloupe ball, 1 basil leaf and 1 ball of mozzarella, and repeat until each skewer has 3 melon balls and 2 mozzarella balls, with a total of 4 basil leaves between them. Place on a platter or in a storage tub. Can be tightly covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. 3. Just before serving, drizzle the skewers with the balsamic reduction and serve immediately.

Pesto Potato Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Summer is the best time to whip up a batch of pesto: Basil is at its peak and its prices are low. In its birthplace of Genoa, Italy, pesto is often served with potatoes and pasta, so why not use it to dress cold potatoes? This side can serve more like a main dish with the optional addition of grilled shrimp.

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes 1 cup fresh basil 1 cup fresh parsley 2 cloves garlic, sliced 1/4 cup pine nuts 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 large tomatoes, chopped 1 pound large shrimp, optional

1. Place the whole potatoes in a large pot. Add cool water to cover by 1 inch, and place over high heat. Bring to a boil and cook for about 20 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. When the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, drain and let cool. When cool, cut in cubes and place in a large bowl. 2. While the potatoes cook, place the basil, parsley, garlic, pine nuts, salt and Parmesan cheese in a food processor or blender. Process to make a smooth paste, scraping down as necessary. Add the olive oil and process to make a smooth pesto. 3. Scrape the pesto into the bowl with the potatoes and toss gently to coat the potatoes evenly. Serve topped with chopped tomatoes. 4. If serving with shrimp, peel and devein shrimp, then either grill or sauté until pink. Arrange the shrimp on top of the potato salad.

Cook’s Note: For additional ideas, vinaigrettes and other dressings we usually pour over greens are good on potatoes, too. 

CAVATAPPI W. CREAMY CHEVRE & VEGGIES:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 353; FAT 11g (sat. 3g); CHOL 6mg; SODIUM 422mg; CARB 52g; FIBER 4g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 12g

LEMONY QUINOA KALE SALAD:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 283; FAT 13g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 313mg; CARB 35g; FIBER 5g; ADDED SUGARS 1g; PROTEIN 8g

CHEESY STUFFED ZUCCHINI:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 182; FAT 7g (sat. 3g); CHOL 14mg; SODIUM 285mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 2g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 6g

ELOTES RICE SALAD:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 393; FAT 23g (sat. 6g); CHOL 26mg; SODIUM 618mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 3g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 9g

CANTALOUPE CAPRESE ON A STICK:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 110; FAT 5g (sat. 3g); CHOL 19mg; SODIUM 149mg; CARB 11g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 6g

PESTO POTATO SALAD:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 365; FAT 25g (sat. 4g); CHOL 6 m g ; S O D I U M 3 2 6 m g ; CARB 31g; FIBER 5g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 8g

COD TACOS WITH ORANGE-CORIANDER VINAIGRETTE (RECIPE PAGE 41)