13 minute read
Catch of the Day
Enjoy smooth sailing with recipes, tips and techniques for a variety of seafood
RECIPES BY BARTON SEAVER
There is a wealth of delicious and healthy food from the waters of the world. Oftentimes, people wonder how best to prepare seafood or are in a rut with the same-old method. To remedy the situation, seafood expert Barton Seaver dedicated his new 900-recipe cookbook, “The Joy of Seafood,” to all the cooks who have ever said, “I’d love to eat more seafood, but I don’t know how to cook it.”
While seafood’s delicate flavors and textures shine when they are given a simple platform, Seaver says there is plenty of leeway to have some fun combining exciting flavors that add spice and contrast to the final dish. A drizzle of vinaigrette over fish as soon as it comes out of the pan, for example, is a surefire way to turn the usual into something compelling. In the following recipes from his book, the same dressing is used in tacos for a splash of flavor with cod. Halibut is braised in a spiced coconut broth, grilled salmon keeps it simple yet unexpected, clams make a savory sauce for linguine, and shrimp is jazzed up New Orleans style. Plus, catch some of Seaver’s fun facts about each of these seafood varieties in our “Fish School” callouts as you explore these treasures of the sea. —Mary Subialka
NEW ORLEANS BBQ SHRIMP
New Orleans BBQ Shrimp MAKES 4 TO 8 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons Blackening Spice Mix (see recipe below) 3 pounds shrimp, head on and unpeeled, if available/desired salt 1 lemon, halved 12 tablespoons butter, divided 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1 cup white wine 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 bay leaves 4 sprigs fresh tarragon 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley crusty bread, for serving
1. Season the shrimp lightly with salt. Heat a large heavy skillet over high heat until smoking hot, then add the lemon halves, cut sides down, and shrimp to the dry pan. Cook for 1 minute on each side, then remove. Allow the pan to cool down, then add 8 tablespoons of the butter, the Blackening Spice Mix and garlic. Cook over medium heat until the butter is melted. 2. Add the white wine, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, bay leaves and tarragon and bring to a boil. Return the shrimp to the pan and cook until they are done, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and parsley and stir to combine. Serve immediately with lemon halves and crusty bread (and plenty of napkins).
For the Blackening Spice Mix
Combine 2 tablespoons salt, 11/2 tablespoons smoked sweet paprika, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, 1 tablespoon garlic powder, 1 tablespoon onion powder, 2 teaspoons mustard powder, 1 teaspoon chili powder and 1 teaspoon ground allspice in a small bowl. It will keep tightly sealed in a container for 6 months.
fish school: SHRIMP Shrimp’s popularity is due to its incredible versatility. Its flavor melds into dishes better than just about any other seafood. Shrimp works well with most seasonings, but its incredible sweetness takes especially to citrus, bold spices and fiery heat. Shrimp is sold by size and measured by how many make up a pound. Small are labeled as 21-25 count, medium are 16-20 count, and large are 10-15 count.
Cod Tacos MAKES 4 SERVINGS Orange-Coriander Vinaigrette or Lemon-Chile-Mint Dressing (see recipes below) Pico de Gallo (see recipe below) or store-bought salsa 1 pound cod fillets, skin off salt sour cream, for serving 2 avocados, sliced 1/2 cup cilantro, leaves picked 1/4 head cabbage, thinly sliced, or coleslaw 16 corn tortillas 1. Season the fish with salt and let it rest for 20 minutes. 2. Prepare a charcoal grill with a medium fire, concentrating the hot coals on one side of the kettle. (See Cook’s Notes on page 45 if using a gas grill.) 3. Place the fish on the grill over the hot coals. Cook about 3 to 4 minutes. Lift the entire grill grate and rotate it so the fish rests opposite the hot coals. Cover the grill and continue to cook over this indirect heat until the fish is done, about another few minutes until the flesh flakes under gentle pressure from your thumb. 4. Flake the fish into bite-size pieces and toss with the vinaigrette or dressing. 5. Set out bowls of Pico de Gallo (or salsa), sour cream, avocado, cilantro and shredded cabbage. 6. Place the tortillas in a dry heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat and cook until toasted yet pliable. Keep them warm in a kitchen towel. 7. For each taco, stack two tortillas together. Let everyone build their own tacos just the way they like. fish school: COD Cod—like the other flaky white fish that share its culinary category—are sedentary, so their flesh is very lean. When cooked, cod has a dense texture and a large flake, which allows it to hold on to its moisture a bit better than smaller flaked white fish, like haddock. In terms of flavor, cod is mild with a slightly sour note. A sprinkling of kosher salt 20 minutes before cooking helps bring out cod’s nuanced flavors and firm up its flesh for cooking.
Cook’s Note: You can also bake, broil or poach the fish for the tacos if you prefer; continue with step 4.
For the Orange-Coriander Vinaigrette
Combine 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 zested and juiced orange, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds, and salt to taste and whisk vigorously. Let the mixture rest for 10 minutes before using.
For the Lemon-Chile-Mint Dressing
Zest and juice 1 lemon. Soak 1 thinly sliced serrano chili pepper in the juice, 4 tablespoons vegetable oil, and salt to taste for 10 minutes. Thinly slice the leaves from 5 fresh mint sprigs. Chop fresh parsley for 2 tablespoons and add with the mint and lemon zest to the dressing just before using.
For the Pico de Gallo
Combine 1 small finely diced onion, 1-2 grated hot chili peppers (such as Fresno, jalapeño or serrano), juice from 1 lime and salt to taste in a bowl and let the mixture rest for 10 minutes. Dice 4 ripe plum tomatoes. Chop fresh cilantro for 1/4 cup. Add tomatoes and cilantro to the other ingredients in the bowl and toss to combine. (Makes 1 cup)
Linguine with Clam Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 pound linguine, cooked according to package instructions, 1/2 cup cooking liquid reserved 12 large hard-shell clams, scrubbed 2 cups white wine 6 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup flour couple dashes Worcestershire sauce 1. In a pot over medium-high heat, add the clams and the wine. Cover the pot and bring to a boil, cooking until the clams open. Remove the clams from their shells, cut into dime-size pieces, and reserve. Strain the broth into a clear container, discard the solids and wipe out the pot. Let the broth sit undisturbed for 5 minutes. Slowly decant the broth back into the pot and leave any grit in the bottom of the container. You should have about 3 cups of broth. Add water to equal 3 cups, if needed. 2. In a wide skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour until it forms a loose paste. Add the clam broth, a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce, the bay leaf, a pinch of mace and the sherry. Simmer, stirring constantly, until it is slightly thickened. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks and whisk in 1/4 cup of the clam sauce. Add the yolk mixture to the pot with the clam sauce and simmer over very low heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thickened, 2 to 4 minutes. 3. Add the pasta, remaining pasta water, clam pieces and herbs and simmer until the pasta is warmed and the liquid coats the pasta. fish school: CLAMS Clams are best distinguished based on the shape and length of their shells. The majority of clams you’ll find at market year round are hard-shell varieties because they have a longer shelf life than soft-shell clams. Also known as quahogs, familiar names include East Coast littlenecks, West Coast butter clams, Topneck and Chowders, which are the largest. A clam shell should be tightly closed, an indicator that it is still fresh. 1 bay leaf pinch ground mace 11/2 ounces Amontillado or cooking sherry or Rainwater Madeira 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as chervil, chives or tarragon
Variation: Use chopped clams instead of fresh. Strain 2 cups of chopped clams, reserving their liquor. Add as much white wine or water as needed to the clam liquor to equal 3 cups and proceed with the recipe.
Braised Halibut in Spiced Coconut Broth MAKES 4 SERVINGS, PHOTO ON PAGE 2
4 halibut portions (4-6 ounces each), skin off salt 3 tablespoons peanut oil, divided 1 lime, cut into quarters 1 red onion, cut into wedges 1 (1-inch) knob ginger, sliced 1 garlic clove, sliced 1/4 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1/4 cup slivered almonds 1/2 pound carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 (14-ounce) cans unsweetened coconut milk 1 sprig fresh basil 2 scallions, sliced on the bias seared limes for garnish rice for serving (optional)
1. Season the fish with salt and let it rest for 20 minutes. 2. In a large sauté pan over high heat, warm 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the lime and onion and cook undisturbed until the onion gets a nice char, almost burned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the onion and lime from the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, ginger, garlic, mushrooms, almonds and carrots. Sauté until the almonds are toasted. 3. Nestle the onion and fish into the pan. Add coconut milk and basil. Cover, turn the heat to low, and cook until the fish is done, about 10 minutes. Discard the basil and ginger slices. Garnish with the scallions and seared limes. Serve with rice.
fish school: HALIBUT
The largest of the flatfish in both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, halibut can weigh as much as 700 pounds, though most harvested halibut typically weigh between 30 and 80 pounds. They feed on a wide variety of fish, lobsters and crabs, giving them a nuanced culinary character. The flavor is mild with a somewhat delicate sea-brine aroma that is punctuated with a fresh, bright, herbal smell. Halibut needs the addition of both sweet and sour flavor components to bring its personality into focus. The snowywhite flesh has beautiful, big flakes once cooked and presents beautifully.
LINGUINE WITH CLAM SAUCE
GRILLED SALMON WITH PERNOD AND HERBS AND CREAMED CORN AND HERB CROUTONS
1/4 cup Pernod or dry vermouth 1 shallot, finely diced 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon or parsley 1 tablespoon salt 4 salmon portions (4-6 ounces each), skin on 1 lemon, cut into wedges
1. Combine the Pernod, shallot, olive oil, tarragon or parsley, and salt. Pour the mixture over the salmon and let it rest for 1 to 4 hours. 2. Prepare a charcoal grill with a medium fire, concentrating the hot coals on one side of the kettle. 3. Remove the fish from the marinade and place it skin side down on the grill over the hot coals. Cook until the skin begins to char, about 3 to 4 minutes. Lift the entire grill grate and rotate it so the fish rests opposite the hot coals. Pour any remaining marinade over the fish. Cover the grill and continue to cook over this indirect heat until the fish is done, about 5 to 8 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges. Cook’s Note: If using a gas grill, preheat all burners to medium. Place the seafood on one side of the hot grates. Once it begins to char around the edges, turn off the burner directly under the fish. Pour any remaining marinade over the fish and cover the grill to finish cooking.
fish school: SALMON Salmon has become ubiquitous, and many cooks might now overlook how dynamic an ingredient it is. It has a rich texture and a unique flavor that makes it a crowd-pleaser at home and a restaurant staple. When cooked, salmon has a somewhat nutty, buttery taste and the faint aroma of baked potato. When raw, fresh salmon has a cucumber scent and a very mild and nuanced flavor. Salmon’s flavor intensifies as it cooks, not reaching its potential until cooked at least to medium doneness.
Creamed Corn and Herb Croutons MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE FROM SEAVER’S “FOR COD AND COUNTRY” COOKBOOK
Fresh corn is one of the great treats of the summer. This interpretation of creamed corn has just a touch of sour cream and butter added to it to accentuate the natural sweet creaminess of the corn kernels. Serve it with the Grilled Salmon with Pernod and Herbs.
2 tablespoons butter, divided 4 slices brioche bread or potato rolls, cut into 1/2-inch cubes salt, to taste 8 ears corn, shucked 1 small onion, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1/2 cup water, divided 2 teaspoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons sour cream 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Tabasco sauce, for serving
1. For the croutons, preheat the oven to 350°F. Melt 1/2 tablespoon of the butter in a medium ovenproof skillet and add the bread cubes. Toss to combine, then season to taste with salt. Place the skillet in the oven and toast the croutons until lightly brown and crunchy throughout. Remove from the oven and set aside. These can be made up to a few days ahead (store them in an airtight container), but their flavor is best the day they’re made. 2. For the corn, take the ears one at a time and, using a paring knife, cut off all the kernels, letting them drop into a large bowl. Scrape the cob with the knife so that the juice and little bits of corn fall into the bowl too. In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt the remaining 11/2 tablespoons butter and cook the onion and garlic until soft, then add the corn. Sauté for another minute, then add 1/4 cup of the water and season generously with salt. Allow to boil, as this will steam the corn and cook it. After a few minutes, combine the remaining 1/4 cup water with the cornstarch and add to the pan. This will thicken the juices immediately and create a creamy, rich sauce around the kernels. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream and parsley. Keep warm.
RECIPES AND FISH SPECIES INFORMATION FROM “THE JOY
OF SEAFOOD” BY BARTON SEAVER © 2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF STERLING EPICURE, AN IMPRINT OF STERLING
PUBLISHING CO. INC. CREAMED CORN AND HERB CROUTONS RECIPE REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM “FOR COD AND COUNTRY” © 2011 BY BARTON SEAVER, STERLING EPICURE, AN IMPRINT OF STERLING PUBLISHING CO. INC.
NEW ORLEANS BBQ SHRIMP:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 381; FAT 24g (sat. 15g); CHOL 321mg; SODIUM 1326mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 2g; PROTEIN 34g
COD TACOS:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 586; FAT 33g (sat. 7g); CHOL 66mg; SODIUM 133mg; CARB 50g; FIBER 12g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 28g
LINGUINE W. CLAM SAUCE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 837; FAT 24g (sat. 13g); CHOL 164mg; SODIUM 655mg; CARB 113g; FIBER 6g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 35g
BRAISED HALIBUT IN COCONUT BROTH, NO RICE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 651; FAT 51g (sat. 33g); CHOL 66mg; SODIUM 157mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 6g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 31g
GRILLED SALMON W. PERNOD & HERBS:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 286; FAT 16g (sat. 3g); CHOL 80mg; SODIUM 953mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 31g
CREAMED CORN & HERB CROUTONS:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 382; FAT 14g (sat. 6g); CHOL 44mg; SODIUM 117mg; CARB 61g; FIBER 6g; ADDED SUGARS 2g; PROTEIN 10g
THAI-SPICED RARE BEEF & WARM RICE NOODLE SALAD (RECIPE PAGE 50)
