Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Winter 2018 by Lunds & Byerlys

Lunds & Byerlys

WINTER 2018

COMPLIMENTARY

Happy Holidays

Gather together around sumptuous and approachable meals

FREE

SLOW COOKER SUPERFOODS: Restorative and nutritious DINNER MENU: The season is merrier with a mostly make-ahead buffet SWEET NOSTALGIA: Updated twists on retro treats

BEAUTIFUL KITCHENS AND BATHS START IN OUR SHOWROOM. VISIT TODAY.

763.717.8500 12955 HWY 55, PLYMOUTH, MN 55441 MingleTeam.com

Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

contents

Features

real food winter 2018

20 Holiday Buffet A menu easy enough so you can enjoy your party but fancy enough for a special occasion BY MOLLY STEVENS

32 One-Pan Roasts Sheet pans save the day for easy meals BY ROBIN ASBELL

40 Slow Cooker Superfoods Restorative and nutritious meals from the convenience of your slow cooker RECIPES BY NICOLA GRAIMES WITH CATHY SEWARD

46 Sweet Nostalgia Channel your inner vintage spirit with updated twists on retro desserts RECIPES BY JESSIE SHEEHAN

52 The Soul of Food Chef Carla Hall’s journey to celebrate dishes of the South BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Vegan holiday fare RECIPES BY NAVA ATLAS

6 Kitchen Skills Get the party started with canapés BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Pumpkin: Picking, prepping and preparing BY KATELYN RADEMACHER

18 Healthy Habits A Healthy Holiday: Simple, tasty swaps BY LIANNA MATT AND ERICA MAHONEY

56 Pairings Party Pours: Red, white and sparkling BY MARY SUBIALKA

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ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES WITH BROILED STEAKS AND BLUE CHEESE SAUCE (RECIPE PAGE 34)

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Our Cover

Almond Crusted Pork Tenderloin with Bacon Balsamic Brussels Sprouts (page 39) Photograph by Terry Brennan Food styling by Lara Miklasevics

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6/23/16

2:55 PM

PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN

SENIOR EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLISHING MIKE BERGER EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITORS KATIE BALLALATAK AND LIANNA MATT ASSISTANT CONTENT PRODUCER KYLE SMELTER EDITORIAL INTERNS ERICA MAHONEY AND KATELYN RADEMACHER SENIOR ARTâ&#x20AC;&#x2C6;DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KELSEY FISH

VOLUME 14, NUMBER 4 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S, Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com C

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The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

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bites

Holiday Fare Everyone Can Eat From entrees to dessert, it can be surprisingly easy to make a vegan-friendly holiday meal

ou don’t have to live a vegan lifestyle to enjoy vegan food (a fact many vegans learn when other, non-vegan eaters try the food they brought for themselves). Many restaurants are now more conscientious about offering vegetarian- and vegan-friendly dishes, and there has been a rise in eateries that only serve plant-based items. Still, holidays—when many things are homemade traditions—can be tough. Nava Atlas, the author of “Wild About Greens” and “Vegetarian Celebrations,” has recently come out with a book all about this struggle: “Vegan Holiday Kitchen.” In it, she tackles many of the big holidays in the fall, such as Thanksgiving, Christmas and Hanukkah, but many of the recipes can be used anytime. With her Hearty Lentil and Mushroom Shepherd’s Pie, you can see for yourself just how filling and comforting a homemade plant-based diet can be, and the Cranberry-Carrot Cake with Maple-Cream Cheese Frosting is the most reassuring proof that, just because you don’t use dairy cream in your desserts, they can taste just as good as if grandma had made them. —Lianna Matt

Hearty Lentil and Mushroom Shepherd’s Pie MAKES 8 OR MORE SERVINGS

There are no words to describe this recipe other than “a deep dish of absolute comfort.” 2 tablespoons dry red wine, optional 1 to 2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce or Bragg’s Liquid Aminos 2 to 3 teaspoons all-purpose seasoning blend 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme freshly ground pepper, to taste 3 tablespoons cornstarch or arrowroot 8 to 10 ounces baby spinach or arugula leaves 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1. Peel and dice the potatoes. Place in a large saucepan with enough water to cover. Bring to a simmer, then cover and continue to simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and transfer to a small mixing bowl. 2. Stir the margarine into the potatoes until melted, then add the rice milk and mash until fluffy. Season with salt, cover and set aside until needed. Preheat the oven to 400ºF. 3. While the potatoes are cooking, heat the oil in a medium skillet. Add the onion and sauté over medium heat until translucent. Add the garlic and mushrooms and continue to sauté until the onion is golden. 4. Add the lentils and their liquid and bring to a slow simmer. Stir in the optional wine, soy sauce, seasoning blend, thyme and pepper. Cook gently for 5 minutes. Combine the cornstarch with just enough water to dissolve in a small bowl. Stir into the lentil mixture. 5. Add the spinach or arugula, a little at a time, cooking just until it’s all wilted down. Remove from the heat, taste and adjust seasonings to your liking. 6. Lightly oil a 2-quart (preferably round) casserole dish, or two deep-dish pie plates. Scatter the breadcrumbs evenly over the bottom. Pour in the lentil mixture, then spread the potatoes evenly over the top. If using two pie plates, divide each mixture between them. 7. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the potatoes begin to turn golden and slightly crusty. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes, then cut into wedges to serve. Cook’s Note: This recipe is nut-free. To further accommodate different dietary needs, it can be made gluten-free by making breadcrumbs from specialty gluten-free bread, and it can also be soy-free by replacing margarine with olive oil.

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AVOCADOS MAXIMLESHKOVICH - FOTOLIA.COM

8 large or 10 medium potatoes 2 tablespoons Earth Balance or other non-hydrogenated margarine 1/2 cup rice milk salt, to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 6 ounces cremini or baby bella mushrooms 2 (15-ounce) cans lentils, drained but not rinsed

Cranberry-Carrot Cake with Maple-Cream Cheese Frosting MAKES 8 SERVINGS

This cake is festive and luscious, but with a minimum of fat and a plethora of fresh fruit (and a vegetable!) in the batter, it’s not the least bit guilt-inducing. Using a springform pan makes it easier to release this cake in a lovely, intact round, but the same can be achieved with a flexible silicone pan. 8 to 10 ounces fresh cranberries ⅓ cup natural granulated sugar 13/4 cups whole-wheat pastry or spelt flour 2 tablespoons ground flaxseeds, optional 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 cup applesauce ⅓ cup maple syrup 2 tablespoons safflower or other light oil 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup grated carrot Maple-Cream Cheese frosting (see recipe right) ⅓ cup finely chopped walnuts 1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. 2. Place the cranberries in a food processor and pulse on and off until evenly and finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl. Add the sugar, stir well and set aside. 3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, optional flaxseeds, baking powder, baking soda, ginger and cinnamon. Stir to combine thoroughly. 4. Make a well in the center and add the applesauce, syrup, safflower oil and vanilla. Stir until the wet and dry ingredients are completely combined, but don’t overmix. 5. Stir the cranberries and carrots into the batter. Pour into a lightly oiled 9-inch round cake pan or springform pan (see recipe introduction). Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center tests clean. 6. If using the walnuts, toast them in a small dry skillet over medium heat until they brown lightly. Once the cake has cooled to room temperature, release from the pan if you’ve used a springform or other easy-to-release pan and spread the frosting over the top evenly, allowing it to drip fetchingly over the sides. Otherwise, leave the cake in the pan and simply frost the top. 7. Sprinkle evenly with the optional walnuts, then cut into wedges to serve. Cook’s Note: This recipe can be made soy-free by omitting the frosting and nut-free by omitting the walnuts.

Maple-Cream Cheese Frosting MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP, ENOUGH TO FROST ONE AVERAGE-SIZE CAKE

I love this simple frosting on fruit- or vegetable-based baked goods, especially those containing carrots or pumpkin. 1/2 cup vegan cream cheese 2 to 3 tablespoons maple syrup, to taste 2 tablespoons rice milk or other plain or vanilla vegan milk 1. Combine the ingredients in a food processor. Process until creamy and smooth. Use a flexible cake spatula to remove from the work bowl. Spread on cakes or cupcakes once they’ve cooled to room temperature. 

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kitchen skills

Perfect Little Bites Get the party started with mix-and-match canapés BY JASON ROSS

ime to put on your best sweater, make a little nosh, and have some company over for snacks. The holiday season is here. Get the celebration started with simple-to-prepare canapé snack trays. Canapé (pronounced KAN-uh-pay) is French for bite-sized open-faced sandwiches, and they are made with three parts: bases, spreads and toppings. Here is a selection of recipes—from all three parts—you can mix and match to make a variety of perfect little bites for your holiday tray.

BASES:

Canapé bases should be small. People eat them standing up— chatting, maybe holding a drink in their other hand—so keep it to one bite. It is important to have a selection of flavors and textures. While mostly hidden underneath, the base can be the most creative part of the canapé.

Mini Buckwheat Pancakes MAKES ABOUT 12 TO 15 MINI PANCAKES

Buckwheat flour gives these mini pancakes a little extra flavor and bite. Substitute bread flour or all-purpose flour if buckwheat is not available. 1¼ cups warm milk ¾ teaspoon active dry yeast pinch plus 1½ teaspoons sugar, divided 2 tablespoons buckwheat flour 1 cup all-purpose flour

1 egg pinch salt ½ cup cream 2 tablespoons butter for cooking

1. In a medium mixing bowl whisk together warm milk, yeast and pinch of sugar. Allow it to sit for about 5 to 10 minutes until frothy. 2. Combine buckwheat and all-purpose flour and stir into yeast mixture with a spatula until fully incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm space for 1 to 2 hours until batter rises and nearly doubles in volume. 3. Whisk the buckwheat batter to deflate. 4. In a small bowl, use a fork to whisk together the egg, salt, cream and remaining 1½ teaspoons sugar. Whisk the egg mixture into the batter until smooth. 5. Heat a large skillet or non-stick pan over medium heat, and grease with a little butter. When the butter is melted and hot, but not browned, spoon in tablespoons of pancake batter into small circles. Cook the pancakes on one side until distinct bubbles rise and the edges are nicely browned. Flip the pancakes and finish cooking the other side. Remove pancakes and cool on a plate. 6. Serve pancakes cooled and topped with spread and garnish. 7. Pancake batter can be made up to 1 day in advance and stored covered and cooled in the refrigerator. The pancakes also can be made and then stored covered and cooled in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Oven Baked Crostini MAKES ABOUT 12 TO 15 CROSTINI

Try these crispy and crunchy crostini for everything from canapés to cheese plates. 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Use a serrated knife to cut ¼-inch slices from half of a French baguette. Lay slices on sheet pan in a single layer. Brush bread with 2 tablespoons olive oil on both sides and season with ½ teaspoon salt and a pinch black pepper. 3. Bake in the oven for 5 minutes until golden brown. Remove tray from the oven and flip bread slices over. Return to the oven and brown bread on other side for 5 minutes. 4. Remove bread from tray when cooled and store wrapped in a container, unrefrigerated, for up to 5 days.

Cucumber Slices Cucumber is an easy and fresh vehicle base. 1. Cut 1 large English cucumber into slices about ½ inch thick for 12 to 15 pieces. Leave skin on for bright green color. Use a melon baller to scoop out a depression into the seeds of the sliced cucumber. 2. Fill the scooped depression with spread and finish with favorite topping.

TOPPINGS: Toppings are the stars of the

show. Here is your chance to use top-notch ingredients. You don’t need very much, so it’s easier to splurge here. Use a mix of options, colors and flavors. Make sure toppings are easy to chew, thinly sliced and not more than a bite. Here are three ideas that make 12 toppings each.

SPREADS:

Spreads need to connect the flavors of the toppings with the base, but also keep the toppings from falling on the floor! Use enough spread to give flavor and support the topping, but not to overwhelm. Depending on the size of the base, a 1-tablespoon smear is good. Here are spread options using a basic recipe for cream cheese mousse with a few flavor options.

Cream Cheese Mousse MAKES 1 CUP, ENOUGH FOR ABOUT 15 CANAPÉS

Poached Shrimp Pour 2 quarts water into a medium saucepan, add 2 tablespoons salt and bring to a boil. Add 12 medium shrimp. Cook the shrimp for 2 to 3 minutes or until just done; they should be pink, firm and starting to curl. Strain the hot shrimp through a colander. Put them on a tray for a few minutes until they are cool enough to handle. Peel and devein before refrigerating. The cooked shrimp can be stored, covered and refrigerated for up to 5 days.

Choose blue cheese, chives or sun-dried tomatoes to flavor the mousse. 4 ounces cream cheese pinch salt pinch black pepper

Choose 1: 4 ounces blue cheese crumbles ¼ cup minced chives ¼ cup minced sun-dried tomatoes

Prosciutto Split 4 thin slices prosciutto ham into thirds. Roll prosciutto into bundles and place on top of canapés.

1/3 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

Herb Roasted Mushrooms

1. In a food processor or medium mixing bowl with a wooden spoon, mix the cream cheese, salt and pepper until softened and smooth. Make sure to work out any lumps. 2. If using a food processor, transfer to a medium bowl. Using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, and depending on which mousse you are making, fold in blue cheese, chives or sun-dried tomatoes. Fold in whipped cream. 3. Use a spoon to dollop on 1 tablespoon portions, or for a cleaner look, try a pastry bag fitted with a star tip. Pipe small stars on canapé bases. 4. Cream cheese mousse can be stored in a container covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. In a small mixing bowl combine 12 medium mushrooms split in half, 2 tablespoons olive oil, ¼ teaspoon minced thyme, pinch salt and pinch black pepper. 3. Put on sheet tray and roast in oven for 10 minutes, until brown. Remove tray and stir using a spoon. Return tray to oven for another 5 minutes. Remove tray and serve warm on canapés. Mushrooms can be covered and refrigerated for 5 days. To serve warm, reheat in microwave or in sauté pan. 

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contributors

Robin Asbell spreads the

word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is “300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix.” She is also the author of “Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Molly Stevens is an award-

winning cookbook author and cooking teacher. Her upcoming book “Simple Recipes, Expert Advice” is due out in 2019, and her previous books “All About Roasting” and “All About Braising” both earned James Beard Foundation and International Association of Culinary Professionals awards. Stevens’ recipes and articles can be found in a number of national publications, and she travels the country to teach, cook and eat. Molly is happiest at home in Vermont where she lives with her husband and their dog, Red. Find out more about her writing and teaching schedule at mollystevenscooks.com.

Terry Brennan is a

Jessie Sheehan is a baker,

food writer and recipe developer. She is the co-author of “Icebox Cakes” and has developed recipes for many cookbooks besides her own, and has contributed recipes/and or written for Epicurious, Fine Cooking, TASTE and Main Street Magazine, among others. She blogs at jessiesheehanbakes.com and is the Feed editor for the Brown Sugar and Icebox Cakes feeds. She likes layer cakes with lots of frosting and cookies that are thick and chewy and has a soft spot for chocolate pudding. She lives in Red Hook, Brooklyn, with her husband and two boys, not far from her beloved Baked, the bakery where she got her start.

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photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight for me—I look forward to every issue. I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Jason Ross is a chef consultant

for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He trained and grew up in New York City, but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home where he teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

Tara Q. Thomas intended to

be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York but got sidetracked by wine. She has been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is executive editor. Author of “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics” and a contributor to “The Oxford Companion to Cheese” and the forthcoming “The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails,” she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, New York, juggling a laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

Lunds & Byerlys welcome

Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000 Woodbury: 651-999-1200

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Thinking Outside and Inside the Box

n a span of less than five years, meal kits have gone from a new concept to one that has generated more than $1.5 billion in sales in the United States. Nearly one in 10 of us has purchased a meal kit within the past year. For some, it’s a way to fit a delicious home-cooked meal into a busy lifestyle or an opportunity to expand their cooking skills. And for others, it’s a great way to solve the dreaded “What’s for dinner?” question with a solution that breaks them out of their tired meal-planning routine. When we set out to develop meal kits here at Lunds & Byerlys, we knew we wanted to create amazing offerings that are high on quality and low on packaging and waste. Our Deli Director John Stueland and Executive Chef Ken Grogg have done a masterful job of developing a wide variety of seasonal meal offerings that feature premium products such as our sustainable salmon, all-natural pork and signature spices. Each of our L&B Meal Creations includes easy step-by-step instructions and can be prepared in about 40 minutes or less. These meal kits are currently available at 16 of our stores and will be available at all stores in 2019. L&B Meal Creations are just one of many ways we’re striving to provide you with quick and easy meal solutions. We also recently introduced new Ready To Heat meals in our deli. The meals, which

were crafted by our Executive Chefs Tim Tesch and Amy Carter, range from comfort foods to better-for-you options that are low in calories and sodium. You can put these meals in the oven or the microwave. Either way, you’ll have a high-quality meal in minutes. In our meat and seafood department, you’ll find an impressive variety of our Butchers Kitchen offerings, which includes everything from gourmet burgers and stuffed meatloaf to marinated chicken breasts and seafood. One of our newest Butchers Kitchen offerings is our Seafood Steamers. Assembled fresh in our stores, each Seafood Steamer features salmon, shrimp or tilapia along with fresh veggies and rice or potatoes. To learn more about all of these meal solutions, see pages 12-13. If you find yourself short on time or in need of some meal inspiration, we’re here to add some excitement back into your meal planning. From our Lunds & Byerlys family to yours, we wish you the happiest of holidays.

Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663

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Lunds & Byerlys xxxxxxx

Sixty South Salmon W

hen it comes to offering you fresh seafood, we pride ourselves on seeking the most environmentally aware partners. It was through this due diligence that we teamed up with Sixty South, who is not only an extremely responsible salmon producer, but also has perhaps the most captivating background story. Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch rates Sixty South as the second highest rated producer of open water Atlantic salmon in the world. They are also among an elite group of producers that are 100 percent certified by the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC), the preeminent judge of superior farming practices. However, to fully understand Sixty South’s level of quality, it’s perhaps most important to learn about the farmers who cultivate these incredible fish. Leaving their families behind, they board ships headed southward, riding up to 12 hours toward a landscape that’s as isolated as it is

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beautiful. They arrive in Tierra del Fuego’s Alberto de Agostini National Park, situated at the very tip of Cape Horn’s Antarctic region. Towering mountains drop directly into the extremely deep, blue water. Sparkling fjords wind tightly between jagged cliffs. It’s a breathtaking backdrop that matches the original vision that led to the creation of Sixty South. From day one, their mantra and mentality have been to “Think Like Explorers,” testing all boundaries to see what new breakthroughs they might discover. Sixty South’s farmers aren’t just drawn here by a job. These are the southernmost salmon farms in the world, so going home at the end of the work day isn’t even an option. Instead, they will spend 10- to 15-day rotations in this remote outpost. There are 17 floating farms in the island area. The remoteness prevents them from frequently bringing in food, so trained chefs manage all the arrangements, right down to baking fresh bread from scratch each day.

PHOTOS AND MAP COURTESY SIXTY SOUTH

Discover delicious and sustainably raised salmon from the southernmost outpost in the world

Lunds & Byerlys meat and seafood

For this soy-glazed salmon recipe and many others, visit Blog.LundsandByerlys.com.

This affords the team the chance to have communal meals, bonding over discussions of their detailed work and their personal lives. Farming in such a remote and inhospitable place calls for a very particular type of person, someone who is extremely driven by their unique challenge in life—someone who’s ready to take all the necessary steps, not just do what’s convenient. The result is some of the best salmon you’ll ever eat! Sixty South salmon has superior flavor and is sustainably raised with no added hormones, growth promoters or antibiotics, ever. Look for Sixty South salmon in our seafood department and taste the difference for yourself. 

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Lunds & Byerlys meal solutions

Easy Meal Solutions

Whether you’re looking for a quick heat-and-serve option or you’d like to do the prep work yourself, we have a variety of meal solutions to help you get dinner on the table in a snap! MEAL KITS L&B Meal Creations Chef-Crafted Meal Kits with Delicious Recipes Cooked Fresh by You

Make your time in the kitchen enjoyable and your time at the dinner table memorable with our chef-crafted meal kits. Our L&B Meal Creations offer restaurant-quality meals, but in the comfort of your own home. Plus, you get to take all the credit! Whether you’re shopping in one of our stores or browsing our online shopping site, you can quickly select a meal kit when you’re ready to make it. There are no hard-to-cancel subscriptions required. Each of our meal kits contains a recipe that serves two. So, whether you’re short on time or looking for new recipes, L&B Meal Creations will let you enjoy preparing a home-cooked meal with fewer steps and delicious results. Our chef-crafted recipes include Pan-Seared Pork with Apples and Pecorino Brussels Sprouts, Smoky Steak with Spinach and Creamy Gorgonzola Rigatoni, and many, many more.

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L&B Meal Creations are available at the following stores: 50th Street Edina, Chanhassen, Downtown Minneapolis, Downtown St. Paul, Eagan, Eden Prairie, France Avenue Edina, Golden Valley, Highland Park, Maple Grove, Plymouth, Roseville, Ridgedale, St. Louis Park, Wayzata and Woodbury. They are also available throughout the Twin Cities for delivery using our online shopping site, Shop.LundsandByerlys.com. For more information, visit LundsandByerlys.com/MealKits

Lunds & Byerlys meal solutions

What’s in the box? High Quality Ingredients

Each box contains high quality ingredients such as our all-natural Premium Pork, our signature L&B spices and seasoning blends, fresh herbs and more. Ditch your grocery list—it’s all in the box! Step-by-Step Cooking Instructions

Our meal kits come with easy-to-follow instructions and most are prepared in under 40 minutes from start to finish. Plus, we provide support at any time! Need help with a recipe? Just call our FoodE Experts at 952-548-1400. Minimal Packaging and Waste

L&B Meal Creations are wonderful options that result in significantly less packaging waste compared to other meal kit services. In fact, 15 times less waste than the leading meal kit provider. That makes it a delicious choice you can feel good about!

BUTCHERS KITCHEN SEAFOOD STEAMERS Our Butchers Kitchen Seafood Steamers are a convenient, hassle-free way to enjoy a healthy and delicious meal. Each bag contains 6 ounces of fresh seafood–Atlantic salmon, L&B Jumbo Shrimp or tilapia–plus 3 ounces of roasted fingerling potatoes or cilantro lime rice, and 3 ounces of mixed veggies. Then everything is topped with L&B signature seasonings for an extra flavor boost. To prepare, simply pop the BPA-free bag in the microwave and you have a quick, healthy meal in four minutes.

READY TO HEAT MEALS What are delicious, quick to prepare and NEW in our delis? Our Ready To Heat offerings, made fresh for you with Lunds & Byerlys quality ingredients! They cook quickly in the microwave for an easy meal in minutes. These convenient dishes come in a variety of delicious options you’re sure to love: Comfort: A hearty taste of home! The meals you grew up with, made with Lunds & Byerlys quality ingredients. Better for You: Super flavors and textures with less than 600 calories and 600 mg of sodium. World Flavors: Embrace world cuisines with meals from around the globe. Sides: Tasty side dishes to complement any meal. Proteins: Ready To Heat meat options are a great starting point for any meal! Pair side and protein offerings to make a complete meal. 

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

EPICUREAN CUTTING BOARDS Epicurean creates uniquely designed, durable cutting boards. These Americanmade cutting boards are dishwasher safe and knife-friendly. Plus, they’re heat resistant so you can use the surface as a trivet without leaving a blemish.

Did you know? Epicurean started as a trio of young, scrappy, hardworking Minnesota entrepreneurs designing and building skateboard parks for communities in Minnesota and Wisconsin.

MANDIA FROZEN DESSERTS Whether you need a dessert for an important occasion or an everyday indulgence, Mandia’s frozen desserts are the perfect choice. These gourmet Italian desserts offer the artisanal tastes of Italy right in your home. Varieties include tiramisu, cannoli, Amalfi torta, spumone caramello, spumone espresso and spumone lamponi.

Tip: Ready for an authentic Italian treat? Simply thaw and serve!

RUSTIC BAKERY ARTISAN CRISPS Rustic Bakery Artisan Crisps are great to nibble on their own—but why stop there? Their unique combinations of fruits, nuts, seeds and natural flavors can be matched with sweet or savory accompaniments, making them a pantry staple. Flavors include apricot, citrus, cacao nib and almond, ginger and thyme, pistachio and brandy, and tart cherry.

Did you know? From cheese board to dessert plate, these crisps are as versatile as they are delicious. Check the side of the box for a variety of cheese pairings.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

RITROVO SELECTIONS ORGANIC APPLE BALSAMIC VINEGAR Ritrovo founders Ron Post and Ilyse Rathet focus on fresh flavors, which evoke images of special places and preserved culinary traditions. Juicy, tart organic Trentino apples and organic Modena grape must are combined to create this balanced, yet luscious vinegar that brings the taste of the Italian countryside to your table.

Tip: Drizzle to finish grilled pork chops or roasted beets. Add to fresh fruit and spinach salads for a bright flavor. Or blend with a fruity extra virgin olive oil from southern Italy.

WALKERS PURE BUTTER HOLIDAY SHORTBREAD Walkers Pure Butter Shortbread is baked in the secluded village of Aberlour, Speyside, in the heart of the Scottish Highlands. The shortbread is made using a traditional recipe that has been handed down through generations of the Walker family. Festive holiday varieties include mini Scottie dog shortbread, mini shortbread Christmas trees and shortbread festive mini stars.

Tip: Walkers Pure Butter Shortbread makes a great host or hostess gift and is the perfect addition to a holiday cookie tray! Or crush the shortbread cookies to make your own cheesecake crust.

L&B BARKS & BRITTLES Our exclusive L&B custom barks and brittles are made by Minnesota chocolatier BT McElrath. They use only the finest ingredients such as rich chocolate, pure Madagascar vanilla, dried fruit and Annie B’s caramel. Flavors include sir English toffee chocolate bark, kitchen sink chocolate bark, snappy peanut brittle, orange cranberry bark, peppermint Pattie bark, it’s a nutterful life brittle and Minnesota birch bark with almonds.

Tip: Dip in your favorite warm holiday beverage to bring out the melt-in-yourmouth flavor!

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

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ingredient

Pumpkin Possibilities Picking, prepping and preparing the perfect pumpkin BY KATELYN RADEMACHER

PHOTO KARANDAEV - FOTOLIA.COM

umpkins shine brightly at Halloween festivities and are at the core of the ever-popular pie served at Thanksgiving feasts, but this seasonal gourd is destined for far more than decoration or buttery, crumbly goodness. Their impressive versatility makes them a strong candidate for a selection of salty and spicy snacks, sips, and side dishes, too. There are two main types of pumpkins: the field pumpkin and the sugar pumpkin. The field pumpkin, commonly used for jack-o-lanterns, is large and light orange with a tough skin, stringy flesh and a watery, mild flavor. The sugar pumpkin, unlike its carving counterpart, is jam-packed with more tender, less stringy flesh and full of sweet flavor, which makes it the preferred choice for cooking, baking and canning. Not only is the flavor promising, but pumpkin also offers an abundance of nutritional promise. Rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, one cup of pumpkin has 200 percent of the recommended daily intake of vitamin A and has more potassium than a banana. Most notably, the signature orange flesh is chock-full of beta-carotene—a vitamin A precursor that leads to healthy vision, vibrant skin and strong bones. (According to the National Cancer Center, it may even play a role in preventing cancer.) With less than 50 calories and one gram of fat per cup, pumpkins could earn the title of “Go-To Gourd.” These orange orbs have loads of palatable potential. The sweet flavor works equally well with herbs such as sage and rosemary as it does with warm spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger—it even works with spicy chilies, cumin and turmeric. Options are limitless and tastes are plentiful, so take a chance and cross to the savory side, too. From pumpkin ravioli, risotto and tortellini, to delicious dips, soup and bread, looking beyond the typical taste of pumpkin is sure to carve up an unforgettable time with equally unforgettable tastes. Here are steps to prepare the perfect pumpkin for your dish.

to 350°F. Place the pumpkin halves (cut side down) on a baking sheet and cook for 1 hour. If you saved the seeds, add butter and seasonings of choice. Bake them in a single layer at 300°F for 45 minutes or until golden brown. THE PERFECT PUREE After your cooked pumpkin has cooled, remove the peel using your fingers or a knife. Use a food processor (a potato masher works, too) to form a puree to add to soups or season as desired for ravioli filling. SWAP-OUT SUBSTITUTE There’s more to these orange fruits than meets the stem. Pumpkin puree is an attractive low-calorie, low-fat substitute for typical baking ingredients like oil, butter and eggs. Make the simple swaps below with these calculated conversions: • 1 cup oil: 1 cup puree • 1 cup butter: 3/4 cup puree • 1 egg: 1/4 cup puree 

PICK & PREP Before you can turn your pumpkin into a delicious dish, remove the stem and slice it in half with a sharp knife. Scoop out the seeds and scrape the strings away. BOIL OR BAKE For both methods, rinse the pumpkin under cold water. To boil, cut the halves into large chunks. Place the pieces in a large pot with 1 cup of water, cover and boil for 20 to 30 minutes. To bake, preheat the oven

winter 2018 real food 17

healthy habits

A Healthy Holiday Sometimes all it takes is a few substitutions or side dish swaps to make your meal healthier BY LIANNA MATT AND ERICA MAHONEY

CASSEROLES Sometimes with casseroles, just a simple step can make it healthier, like swapping out the french-fried onions on top of green bean casseroles for caramelized onions. It’s a slight difference that can mean fewer calories (think about 116 versus 180 calories) and 8.8 grams of fat versus 14 grams in a half cup. Otherwise, substituting the green bean casserole with a roasted vegetable option—or at least providing a roasted vegetable option as another side—can be a nice complement to the meal and cut down on the creamy fat that tends to come with the casserole. One of Frie’s favorite options is Mayo Clinic’s recipe for garlic cauliflower mashed potatoes (see opposite page). It has the mashed potato goodness that everyone craves but, depending on the original mashed potatoes you ate,

18 real food winter 2018

an extra gram of protein, about 30 fewer calories and 1.5 fewer grams of fat—and a flavor punch from the garlic. (Don’t worry, everyone else will be digging in, too, so you won’t be the only one with garlic breath.)

DIPS Sometimes dips have hidden calories packed into their creamy deliciousness so a good alternative is hummus. Made mostly of chickpeas with flavoring from garlic and a little olive oil, hummus is a low-carb dip with some fiber and protein, and it generally has less fat than other dip options. Consider this: One serving size of chickpeas has 0.8 grams of fat, 2.2 grams of fiber and 2.4 grams of protein, while Cheddar cheese, a popular ingredient in queso dips, has 9 grams of fat per slice and 0 grams of fiber per serving size. On the up side, though, that slice does have 7 grams of protein. Creamy dips are often cream cheese- or mayonnaise-based, but as you look at what recipe to use, consider choosing one (or substituting the base) with plain yogurt, Greek yogurt or pureed low-fat cottage cheese. Not only do the substitutions have the calcium and protein of the original ingredients, but they can help cut down on the fat while still providing the thickness you’re looking for. For the sweet dips that are the perfect nightcap snack, try nixing the melted chocolate and using vanilla-flavored yogurt instead or plain yogurt with a drizzle of infused balsamic vinegar, such as raspberry or chocolate. You might even find yourself enjoying the contrast of flavors more than the sometimes-cloying taste of melted chocolate.

PIE ALLEKO - FOTOLIA.COM HUMMUS ANNA_SHEPULOVA - FOTOLIA.COM RECIPE AND IMAGE COURTESY MAYO CLINIC

he grand oak table is set with fine china, and the seats are filled with family or friends. Different traditions abound when starting a meal: Some pray, some talk about the year’s highlights or what they’re thankful for, and some dig in right away. No matter what’s on the table, the holidays can cause the health-conscious to worry about how to enjoy the season while still giving their body nutritious food. Kristen Frie, a wellness dietitian with Mayo Clinic’s Healthy Living Program in Rochester, Minnesota, knows that it can be a tricky balance, but she also knows that staying healthy during the holidays can be done through simple choices and moderation. For instance, spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg or cloves can take the place of some of the sugar in baked goods, and using herbs and spices to lessen the use of salt and butter for flavor on the entree can cut down on the sodium normally used. “Vegetables, for sure—anywhere you can sneak more of those in would be helpful,” Frie says. Here are some of Frie’s suggestions if you’re looking to make your holiday staples a little healthier this year.

DESSERTS Desserts are often a tough challenge for the health-conscious folks, especially during the holidays. To some people, dessert is the best part of the meal, and for others, the act of making the desserts is seen as bonding time. Frie recommends trying recipes that will still make you smile but may have more than just sugar and cream in them. “[Try] thinking about what recipes can be more of a fruit-based dessert, like maybe a pie with fruit filling and a graham cracker crust instead of a double-crusted fruit pie or pecan pie,” she says. A modified version of pumpkin pie might also be a good choice as one serving of pumpkin has 197 percent of your recommended amount of vitamin A, 17 percent of your vitamin C and only 0.1 gram of fat. Still, it’s what you add to the pumpkin in pumpkin pies that lowers the overall nutritional impact of the dessert, so consider using a pumpkin mousse instead of the traditional pumpkin filling.

STUFFINGS/DRESSING In addition to swapping out the white bread for wheat or adding more vegetables into the stuffing, Frie suggests cooking the stuffing outside of the bird. “Otherwise when it’s in the cavity, it’s soaking up all the fat that would otherwise be dripping off,” she says. Make sure to use broth such as chicken or vegetable broth to keep it moist and add the juicy flavor without the fat. While there will always be ingredient substitutions and new takes on dishes, Frie emphasizes that you should be able to enjoy yourself over any holiday as they only come around a few times a year. If you focus on a holistically healthy lifestyle, don’t stress yourself out too much by counting calories or trying to replace every ingredient. “If it’s a family-favorite recipe, I always recommend sticking to the favorite recipe as it is,” Frie says. “Maybe [they can] make some adjustments on other items that weren’t the favorite the year before or that could use some flexibility. Maybe they just go for an extra walk that day.”  Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

Garlic Cauliflower Potato Mash MAKES 12 SERVINGS, RECIPE COURTESY MAYO CLINIC

4 large russet potatoes, peeled and chopped into medium chunks 2 medium heads cauliflower, cut into quarter-size florets 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt 11/2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon garlic powder pinch ground black pepper

1. Bring water to a boil in two medium sauce pots. Boil potatoes and cauliflower in separate pots until each is fork tender, about 10 minutes; remove from heat and drain. 2. Place cauliflower in a food processor and process until smooth, about 2 minutes. 3. Place potatoes and processed cauliflower into a large mixer with a whip attachment and mix on medium speed for about 1 minute. 4. Add the butter, yogurt, salt, thyme, garlic powder and black pepper. Mix on the stir setting until all ingredients are well-incorporated, about 2 minutes. Serve. Cook’s Note: Be sure not to over whip the potatoes, or they will take on a paste-like texture.

winter 2018 real food 19

20 real food winter 2018

Holiday Buffet Enjoy your own party with a mostly make-ahead buffet-style dinner

BY MOLLY STEVENS

hether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re celebrating the holidays or catching up with friends and family before the new year rolls around, the winter months are the time for gathering together around

a sumptuous meal. The only trouble is that putting on the Ritz can often feel like too much effort during this busy season. The solution is a buffet menu easy enough to allow you to enjoy your own party but fancy enough for a special occasion.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

winter 2018 real food 21

SHRIMP COCKTAIL WITH CILANTRO-LIME COCKTAIL SAUCE AND DEVILED EGGS WITH DILL AND LEMON

22 real food winter 2018

The following menu centers around entertaining classics, including shrimp cocktail, beef tenderloin, roasted vegetables and a chocolate-truffle tart for dessert, but each has a contemporary twist to make it feel fresh yet familiar. Plus a spinach-and-onion lasagna serves double-duty as a side dish or a main course for vegetarian guests. Throughout the recipes, you’ll find tips on how to get ahead and a timeline for the few days leading up to your party. You’ll even find turkey roasting tips if you’re hosting one of the big holiday feasts and want to swap out the beef for turkey—or if you have a really full house, you may want to serve both. For an extended cocktail hour, consider offering a cheese board and/or deviled eggs along with shrimp cocktail. While the menu is well rounded, for something fresh, add a simple green salad, or—better yet—enlist someone to bring one.

Shrimp Cocktail with Cilantro-Lime Cocktail Sauce MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Create a tasty twist on this classic appetizer with lime, ginger and fresh cilantro. For the sweetest, most tender shrimp, cook them yourself using this quick broth and no-boil method. For the Sauce 3/4 cup ketchup 3/4 cup chile sauce 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 to 3 tablespoons prepared horseradish, to taste 1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger 1 teaspoon Asian fish sauce 2 to 3 dashes of hot sauce, such as Tabasco, to taste 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro For the Shrimp 3/4 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 small carrot, thinly sliced 1 or 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon salt, any kind 1/4 teaspoon whole allspice 16 to 20 extra-large shrimp in the shell

Deviled Eggs with Dill and Lemon If you want a little something extra to put out with the shrimp cocktail, dress up your standard deviled egg formula by adding fresh lemon juice, a drizzle of honey, softened butter and fresh dill to the yolks along with the mayonnaise (figure 1/2 teaspoon softened butter per egg and the rest to taste). Refrigerate overnight before serving. It’s a small change from the classic recipe, but the results are remarkable.

1. Make the sauce: Combine the sauce ingredients in a bowl and stir to combine. Add more horseradish or hot sauce to taste. Chill before serving. 2. Cook the shrimp: Combine 2 quarts water, wine, vinegar, carrot, garlic, bay leaf, salt and the allspice in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, partially cover, and then reduce to a simmer for 5 minutes. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. 3. Add the shrimp to the simmering broth, cover the pot and return to a simmer for 1 minute. Immediately turn off heat, and let sit, covered, for 8 minutes. Drain in a strainer, and quickly rinse with cool water before plunging into ice bath to chill. Let chill thoroughly, about 10 minutes. 4. Drain again, picking out and discarding any vegetables. Peel and arrange the shrimp on a platter. Serve with sauce for dipping or refrigerate until serving (see Cook’s Notes). Cook’s Notes: • If you prefer to buy precooked shrimp the day before the party, get 21/2 to 3 pounds (16 to 20) cooked extra-large shrimp, peeled with tails left on, and chill well before serving. • Make ahead: The sauce can be made up to 3 days in advance and kept covered in the refrigerator. Cooked shrimp can be kept in the coldest part of your refrigerator for up to 1 day. Store them over a bowl of ice covered with a layer of plastic wrap for extra insurance. • You will have some extra cocktail sauce. Nutrition information is calculated using half for total number of servings.

winter 2018 real food 23

SPICE-ROASTED BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH CREAMY MUSTARD SAUCE

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Spice-Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Creamy Mustard Sauce

Holiday Buffet Time Line

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

4 DAYS BEFORE THE PARTY

A warming spice mix of coriander, cumin, caraway and paprika gives beef tenderloin an added dimension without overshadowing the splendor of this elegant roast. A bit of salt and sugar in the rub also enhances the beef ’s tenderness and savory flavor. For best taste and texture, season the beef 24 to 36 hours ahead. Delicious on its own, roast tenderloin is even better when paired with the quick mustard sauce recipe that follows.

• Grocery shop

1 tablespoon coriander seed 1 teaspoon paprika, sweet or hot 11/2 teaspoons cumin seed 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon caraway seed 1 whole beef tenderloin (4 to 5 pounds), 2 teaspoons brown sugar, light or dark trimmed and tied 11/2 teaspoons kosher salt 1. Combine the coriander, cumin and caraway in a small skillet, and heat over medium heat, shaking to prevent burning, until fragrant and starting to darken, about 4 minutes. Let cool. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and grind to a coarse powder. Combine with the sugar, salt, paprika and black pepper. Pat the beef dry with paper towels and rub the spice mix all over. Place on a baking sheet or large platter and refrigerate, loosely covered, for 24 to 36 hours. 2. Heat the oven to 375°F. Let the roast sit at room temperature while the oven heats. 3. Put the roast on a flat wire rack on a rimmed baking sheet (see Cook’s Notes). Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center reads 120°F for rare, 125°F to 130°F for medium-rare, or 135°F for medium, 40 to 50 minutes. 4. Transfer to a carving board to rest for at least 15 minutes. Remove the string and carve into 1⁄3-inch-thick slices. Serve warm or at room temperature with mustard sauce on the side.

2 DAYS BEFORE THE PARTY

Cook’s Notes: • Don’t use a standard roasting rack for the beef because the high sides will cause it to steam. If you don’t have a flat wire rack for roasting, just put the beef directly on the baking sheet or crunch a long sheet of aluminum foil into a snake and make an S-shape rack to support the roast. • When testing for doneness, be sure to check in several places and keep in mind that the natural baseball-bat-like shape of a whole tenderloin (a thicker butt end tapering to a thin tail end) ensures a mix of doneness—rosier pieces from the slower-cooking thick end and more well-done pieces from the tail end. • Slice only as much beef as you plan to serve; leftovers keep better unsliced. • Make ahead: Roast tenderloin is excellent warm, at room temperature or even slightly chilled, allowing the flexibility to cook it anywhere from a couple of hours to a full day ahead. The mustard sauce may be made up to 3 days ahead and kept covered and refrigerated. Serve the sauce at room temperature if the beef is served warm or chilled if the beef is chilled.

Creamy Mustard Sauce MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Delicious with roast tenderloin, this sauce is also good on leftover roast beef sandwiches. 1 cup crème fraîche 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice salt, to taste

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, mustard and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt.

for all ingredients (except the shrimp and beef)

3 DAYS BEFORE THE PARTY • Assemble the

lasagna

• Make the

chocolate tart mustard sauce • Make the cocktail sauce • Make the

1 DAY BEFORE THE PARTY • Pick up the

shrimp and beef • Pick up flowers, if desired • Season the beef • Set the table • Set up the drinks fridge and bar MORNING OF THE PARTY • Prep

cauliflower and broccoli recipe fully • Cook shrimp (if not using pre-cooked) BEFORE DINNER • Roast

cauliflower and broccoli (425°F for about 35 minutes) • Roast tenderloin (375°F for about 45 minutes) • Bake lasagna (375°F for about 60 minutes) • Let everything rest at room temperature until ready to serve Note: If you have two ovens, you can cook the lasagna and tenderloin at the same time in one oven (pulling the beef out before the casserole and letting it rest) and roast the vegetables in the second oven. If you only have one oven, roast the vegetables first. Then lower the oven temperature to 375°F and cook the lasagna and beef at the same time.

winter 2018 real food 25

Spinach and Onion Lasagna MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

The key to a good lasagna is to make sure that every layer brings something to the party and that they all combine into one harmonious whole—and that’s exactly what happens here. There’s a creamy onion sauce, plenty of garlic-and-shallot sautéed spinach, a rich ricotta and cottage cheese filling, and a good mix of Fontina and Parmesan cheeses. Using no-boil noodles saves a step in putting it together, and it makes the finished dish light enough to serve as a side for a holiday roast. It also makes a great vegetarian main course. For the spinach 2 bags (9- to 10-ounces each) leaf spinach, preferably not baby, just washed 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 large shallot, finely chopped (about 1/3 cup) 1 tablespoon minced garlic 3/4 teaspoon ground fennel seed pinch red pepper flakes salt and freshly ground black pepper For the white sauce 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 pound (about 2 medium) yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups) 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 1 quart (4 cups) whole milk, divided 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg For the cheese and assembly 1 tub (15- to 16-ounce) whole milk ricotta 1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk cottage cheese 2 large eggs, beaten 12 ounces Italian fontina, shredded (3 cups) 4 ounces Parmesan, finely grated (1 cup) 1 (9-ounce) box no-boil lasagna noodles 1. Pile the spinach in a large covered skillet with the water that clings to it after washing (see Cook’s Notes). Cover and put over medium heat. Cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until wilted, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a colander and set aside to cool. 2. Meanwhile, make the white sauce: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onions, season with salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are collapsed and very tender but not at all browned, about 25 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Gradually stir in 2 cups of milk, about 1/4 cup at a time, taking care to keep the mixture smooth. Once smooth, add the remaining milk and bring to a simmer, stirring frequently. Simmer until thick, about 2 minutes. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. 3. Once the spinach is cooled, squeeze it dry and then chop coarsely. Dry out the skillet used for the spinach and place over medium heat. Add the olive oil, shallots, garlic, fennel and red pepper. Sauté until softened and fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add the chopped spinach and sauté, stirring, until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

26 real food winter 2018

4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the ricotta, cottage cheese, eggs and two-thirds of the Parmesan. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper. 5. Heat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish or lasagna pan. 6. To assemble: Place the noodles in a shallow pan and pour over enough hot tap water to cover. Let sit until a little soft but not fully pliable, about 4 minutes. Drain and arrange on a clean kitchen towel to dry. Spread 1/2 cup of the white sauce in the bottom of the baking dish, and then stir the spinach mixture into the remaining white sauce, mixing to combine. Arrange a layer of noodles over the sauce, cutting them as needed so they fit without overlapping. Spread over one-third of the spinach-white-sauce mixture, top with one-third of the ricotta mixture, followed by about 3/4 cup of fontina cheese. Top with another layer of noodles, and continue layering spinach-white-sauce, ricotta, fontina and noodles until you have 4 layers of noodles sandwiching 3 layers of fillings. Sprinkle the remaining fontina and Parmesan over the final layer of noodles. Spray the dull side of a sheet of foil with pan spray (or brush with olive oil), and cover the casserole. If not baking right away, refrigerate for up to 3 days. 7. Bake, covered, until the filling is heated through and you see a few bubbles around the edge, 25 minutes if not refrigerated (40 minutes if refrigerated). Remove the foil and continue to bake until bubbly and browned on top, another 20 to 25 minutes. Let sit for 10 minutes. Cut into pieces and serve. Cook’s Notes: • For the best flavor and texture, use fresh spinach and wilt it using just the water left on the leaves after washing. If the spinach comes prewashed, simply add about 1/3 cup water to the skillet before adding the spinach. To save time, you can substitute two 10-ounce boxes of frozen spinach. Thaw and drain before sautéing with the shallots and garlic as directed. • Briefly soaking the no-boil noodles before assembling makes them pliable enough to cut to fit the pan without shattering. It also ensures that they won’t soak up too much moisture and leave you with a dry casserole. When layering the noodles, don’t let them overlap, and don’t worry if they don’t reach all the way to the edges; they expand as they bake. • Make ahead: The lasagna may be refrigerated for up to 3 days before baking. Once baked, it may be frozen for up to 2 months. To serve, defrost overnight in the refrigerator, and then bake, covered, at 350°F until heated through, about 30 minutes.

SPINACH AND ONION LASAGNA

winter 2018 real food 27

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI CAESAR-STYLE

28 real food winter 2018

Roasted Cauliflower and Broccoli Caesar-Style MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Tender and sweet, roasted cauliflower and broccoli are delicious on their own, but they’re better still when dressed up with the elements of a Caesar dressing: lemon, garlic and Parmesan. 1 large head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), broken into 1-inch florets 2 pounds broccoli, broken into 1-inch florets, stalks peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch pieces 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 small lemons (use Meyer lemons if available), well-scrubbed, sliced into thin rounds and seeded 3 to 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1/2 cup grated Parmesan

TURKEY LAURA - FOTOLIA.COM

1. Heat the oven to 425°F with racks in the upper and lower thirds. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Combine the cauliflower and broccoli in a large bowl. Toss with 3 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper. Transfer to the baking sheets, dividing the vegetables evenly and spreading into loose layers. Combine the lemon and garlic in the now-empty bowl. Toss with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Set aside. 3. Roast the vegetables until they begin to soften and brown in spots, 20 minutes. Add the lemon and garlic to the baking sheets, dividing evenly, and toss with a metal spatula to combine. Continue to roast until everything is browned and tender, another 10 minutes. Sprinkle the Parmesan over the vegetables and return the sheets to the oven until cheese melts, another 5 minutes. (Your total roasting time is 35 minutes.) 4. Combine vegetables in a heat-proof serving dish and serve warm or at room temperature. Cook’s Notes: • The best lemons to use are small thin-skinned ones. If Meyer lemons are available, they are especially nice, because their peels lack the bitterness of ordinary lemons. Either way, be sure to scrub the peel well before slicing, since you eat the whole thing. And don’t forget to pick out the seeds. • Make ahead: These are delicious hot from the oven or at room temperature. You can also roast the vegetables a couple hours ahead. To serve, re-warm directly in the serving dish for about 10 minutes in a moderate oven.

Roast Turkey Tips

In many homes, it’s not a holiday without a roast turkey, and here are a handful of tips for getting it right. SIZE MATTERS: The bigger the

turkey, the more likely it is to dry out. For best results, choose a modest sized bird in the 12- to 16-pound range. If you have a larger gathering, consider roasting two smaller birds, or one smaller bird plus a breast, since white meat is often more popular. PRE-SALT (A.K.A. DRY-BRINE): One to two days before your dinner,

measure out about 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt per pound of turkey (i.e. 5 teaspoons salt for a 10-pound turkey). Pat dry the bird with paper towels and sprinkle the salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste (and any other seasonings you like), liberally all over the turkey, including the cavity, back, breasts and meaty thighs. Arrange the salted turkey on a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours, uncovered if possible. (Leaving it uncovered dries the skin, which helps it crisp during roasting.) As the turkey sits, the salt gently permeates the meat, improving its water-holding ability so that it stays juicy without becoming overly salty. (There’s no need to rinse or wipe off the turkey before roasting.) DRESS, DON’T STUFF: Packing the cavity with a dense stuffing slows

down the cooking and leaves you with dried-out breast meat and undercooked dark meat. Also, stuffing packed into the bird will not cook through to a safe temperature until the rest of the turkey is overdone. The best solution is to bake the stuffing separately in a casserole dish, which makes it technically a dressing. GO HIGH-LOW: To get a brown skin without overcooking the turkey,

start by heating the oven to 450°F and let the turkey sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Arrange the turkey breast-side up in a sturdy roasting pan outfitted with a roasting rack and slide it into the oven. Immediately lower the oven heat to 350°F and let the turkey roast at this moderate temperature. TAKE THE TEMPERATURE: Roast for 21/2 to 3 hours for a 13- to 14-pound

turkey (or 12 to 13 minutes per pound). Make sure to cover the breast with foil toward the end if it’s getting too dark. The turkey is done when the juices from the thigh run mostly clear with only a trace of pink and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the meaty part of the thigh registers about 170°F. Take the internal temperature in a few spots to get an accurate reading. LET IT REST: Set the turkey in a warm spot on a tray or cutting board

to catch any drips, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes up to 1 hour. (If it’s drafty, loosely tent foil over the top.) If you cut into the turkey before it has had a chance to sit, it will be dry no matter how perfectly you timed the roasting. Plus, the rest period gives you plenty of time to attend to the gravy and side dishes because, as we all know, roast turkey really is about the trimmings.

winter 2018 real food 29

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE TART WITH PECAN-GRAHAM CRUST

30 real food winter 2018

Chocolate Truffle Tart with Pecan-Graham Crust MAKES ONE 9- OR 10-INCH TART, SERVES 10 TO 12

As dense and rich as a chocolate truffle, serve this sophisticated tart in very thin slices either at room temperature or with a slight chill. The optional chocolate glaze leaves it with a shiny top layer—and another dimension of chocolate—but the tart is perfectly delicious without it. 3. For the filling: Place the chocolate in a heatproof mixing bowl. Bring the cream to just below a boil in a small saucepan. Immediately pour the cream over the chocolate and let stand for 5 minutes. Gently stir until smooth. In another mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla, pepper and salt. Stir the egg mixture into the chocolate, mixing just until smooth. 4. Pour the filling into the crust. Bake until the filling is set and fine cracks appear around the edges, about 30 minutes. Cool completely in the pan on a rack, at least 1 hour. Remove tart ring. 5. For the glaze, if making: Combine the chocolate, water, butter and corn syrup in a small saucepan, and heat very gently over medium-low heat, stirring with a rubber spatula, until melted. Pour over the tart, smoothing the surface with a spatula. Decorate with chopped pecans, if using. Let set for at least 1 hour before serving. Cut into thin wedges to serve.

For the crust 1/2 cup (2 ounces) pecan halves or pieces 7 (5- by 21/4-inch) graham crackers (31/2 ounces), or 1 cup crumbs 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger pinch salt 4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter, melted For the filling 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate, very finely chopped or chips 1 cup heavy cream 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1/8 teaspoon finely ground black pepper pinch salt For the glaze (optional) 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, very finely chopped or chips 2 tablespoons warm water 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 teaspoon light corn syrup toasted pecans, chopped, to garnish (optional)

NUTRITION

1. Heat the oven to 325°F with a rack near the center. 2. For the crust: Combine the pecans, graham crackers, sugar, cinnamon, ginger and salt in a food processor. Pulse until finely ground. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl and add the melted butter. Toss with a rubber spatula until well combined. Pour the crumb mixture into a 9- or 10-inch removable-bottom tart pan and press evenly onto the bottom and 1/2-inch up the sides of the pan. Set the pan on a baking sheet, and bake until fragrant and dry looking, 12 minutes. Let cool while you prepare the filling.

SHRIMP COCKTAIL W. COCKTAIL SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 40 (1 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 33mg; SODIUM 357mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 5g

SPICE-ROASTED BEEF TENDERLOIN W. SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 388 (200 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 11g); CHOL 156mg; SODIUM 500mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 45g

Cook’s Notes: • There is not a lot of sugar in the filling, so look for a chocolate that has no more than 70 percent cocoa solids. Anything darker won’t have enough sweetness to carry the filling. If you want a less intense chocolate dessert, choose a chocolate in the 50 to 60 percent range. • For an added treat, try candied pecans: Heat 1/2 cup brown sugar, a dash of salt and 1 or 2 tablespoons water in a skillet over medium heat. Once sugar is dissolved and bubbly, add pecans. Heat for about 3 minutes, stirring to coat the pecans. Remove from heat and spread out pecans on parchment paper to set and cool completely. • Make ahead: The tart may be refrigerated for up to 2 days. 

SPINACH & ONION LASAGNA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 655 (358 from fat); FAT 41g (sat. 22g); CHOL 181mg; SODIUM 728mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 34g

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER & BROCCOLI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 116 (71 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 2g); CHOL 4mg; SODIUM 124mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 5g

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 413 (273 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 15g); CHOL 74mg; SODIUM 94mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 5g

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CHILE-LIME CHICKEN WITH ROASTED PEPPERS AND OLIVES (RECIPE PAGE 34)

32 real food winter 2018

One-Pan Roasts Sheet pans save the day for easy home-cooked meals and cleanup BY ROBIN ASBELL

ometimes, it’s not the cooking that feels overwhelming, it’s the cleanup. You’re all in on making a satisfying, family-style dinner, but

the thought of a sink full of dishes makes you think about ordering pizza instead. If this sounds familiar, you need to meet the sheet pan method. You can make the proteins and vegetables all on one, easy-to-clean pan. There are no spatters of oil on the stovetop and no stockpots or casseroles to scrub. Sound too good to be true? It’s easier than you might think to harness the heat of the oven to do it all in one place. You just need to make sure you put vegetables that cook at the same rate together and add your proteins at the right moment. This way, you flavor the vegetables with the meat juices as you coat everything with tasty seasonings at the same time. This is a perfect wintertime cooking method since it relies on a hot oven and not much else. You’ll be snuggly warm while you sip a glass of wine and wait for your dinner delivery from your own oven.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Chile-Lime Chicken with Roasted Peppers and Olives MAKES 4 SERVINGS

One pan is all you need for a Mexican meal, sparked with lime and chilies. Lime and orange wedges roast to melting softness, and you can squeeze them over the finished meal as you enjoy each bite.

1 red bell pepper, cut in 1-inch squares 1 medium green bell pepper, cut in 1-inch squares 1 large jalapeño, seeded and slivered 1/4 cup chopped green olives 4 cloves garlic, halved 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning 2 medium limes 1/2 teaspoon paprika 1/2 teaspoon cumin 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 4 medium bone-in chicken breasts 1 large seedless orange, cut in 8 wedges

1. Arrange oven rack in the middle position and heat oven to 425°F. 2. Place the red and green peppers, jalapeño, olives and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil, sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of the salt, and toss to combine. Spread into an even layer. 3. Finely zest the limes into a large bowl. Cut the limes into 8 wedges each and set aside. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil, paprika, cumin and cayenne to the bowl and stir to combine. 4. Place the chicken breasts on the cutting board and cut four slashes in each one, cutting across the grain about 1/2 inch deep. Add the chicken, reserved lime wedges and orange wedges to the bowl and toss with your hands to thoroughly coat. Sprinkle with remaining salt and toss to coat again. Arrange the chicken, skin side up, in an even layer over the vegetables and fruit. Roast until the chicken is browned and the thickest piece registers 165°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 25 to 30 minutes. Let the chicken rest for 5 minutes. Serve with vegetables and squeeze the roasted limes and oranges over the chicken as you eat.

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Roasted Root Vegetables with Broiled Steaks and Blue Cheese Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Roasted root vegetables are earthy and sweet and roast to tenderness in the oven before being bathed in the juices of steaks as they broil. A tangy, creamy blue cheese sauce ties it all together. 8 ounces new potatoes, halved or quartered 2 large carrots, quartered and cut in 1/4 inch slices 1 medium parsnip, quartered and cut in 1/4 inch slices 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon salt, divided 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 4 (8-ounce) strip or other steaks, about 1 inch thick freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the Blue Cheese Sauce 6 tablespoons half-and-half 1 tablespoon fresh thyme 1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese 1. Move the top rack of your oven to 6 inches below the broiler (if your broiler is in the top of the oven). Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Place the potatoes, carrots and parsnips on the sheet pan and sprinkle with rosemary and ½ teaspoon of the salt and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Toss to coat. Cover the pan with foil and roast for 15 minutes, then shake the pan and roast for 15 minutes longer. 3. Let the steaks come to room temperature. Just before the vegetables are done, rub the steaks with the remaining olive oil and sprinkle both sides with remaining salt. Add pepper to taste. 4. When the vegetables are done, take them out of the oven and turn the broiler on to high. Remove the foil and reserve. 5. Use your spatula to stir the vegetables and move them to the middle of the pan. Place the steaks on top of the vegetables, covering them. If any vegetables are not covered they will be burned by the broiler, so cover or remove them. 6. Broil the steaks for 4 minutes, then take the pan out and turn the steaks, and broil for 3 to 4 minutes longer. Take out and cover loosely with foil for 5 minutes. 7. To make the sauce, place the half-and-half and thyme in a small saucepan on the stove and warm over medium heat. Reduce to low if it starts to boil. When the steaks come out of the oven, whisk in the blue cheese, whisking until melted and smooth, then take off the heat. Serve the vegetables with steak, drizzled with blue cheese sauce.

ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES WITH BROILED STEAKS AND BLUE CHEESE SAUCE

winter 2018 real food 35

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Ginger-Honey Shrimp with Green Beans and Kimchee MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Shrimp is the fast-dinner champ, cooking up quickly in the heat of the oven. Because shrimp vary in size, set the timer and then cut into one to make sure it is cooked through. Pre-trimmed green beans come in a 12-ounce bag, or you can buy a pound of whole green beans and trim them yourself. 1 tablespoon canola oil, or cooking spray, for pan 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 large carrots, julienned 12 ounces pre-trimmed green beans 1 tablespoon fresh ginger 2 tablespoons tamari soy sauce

2 tablespoons honey 1 cup kimchee, drained 2 large scallions 1 large Asian pear, julienned 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil 2 teaspoons rice vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 400Â°F. Drizzle canola oil on sheet pan or coat pan generously with cooking spray. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. 2. Place the carrots and green beans on the prepared pan and sprinkle with fresh ginger. Place the shrimp on top and drizzle it all with tamari and honey. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until shrimp is pink and cooked through. 3. While the pan is in the oven, drain and chop the kimchee and reserve. 4. In a small bowl, mix the scallions, Asian pear, sesame oil and rice vinegar. 5. Serve the shrimp and vegetables with 1/4 of the kimchee and 1/4 of the Asian pear on each plate. Cookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note: This method works just as well with firm white fish or salmon, too. Just skin the fish filet and cut in 11/2-inch cubes. Check for doneness by inserting a paring knife into a large piece and seeing if it flakes easily. When it does, serve.

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Sage Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Herbed Turkey Medallions MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sweet potatoes are drizzled with maple syrup and topped with sage- and thymecoated turkey slices for a taste of the Thanksgiving meal flavors you love. This is quick and easy, so you can enjoy it anytime, including a weeknight. 1 (11/2-2 pound) turkey breast, boneless and skinless 1 tablespoon fresh sage, minced 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced paprika, to taste 2 pounds sweet potatoes

8 small shallots, peeled and halved 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus a pinch or two

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Slice the turkey breast into four pieces of equal weight; the piece at the thinner end will be longer. Place the turkey on a cutting board, cut side down, and place a sheet of waxed paper on top. Use a meat mallet or small sauté pan to gently pound the turkey to make ¾-inch thick medallions. Place on a plate. Sprinkle half of the minced herbs on the turkey, press to adhere, then turn over and sprinkle with the remaining half. Pat to adhere, and sprinkle with paprika. Reserve. 2. Cut sweet potatoes in ½-inch cubes and place on the sheet pan. Add the halved shallots and drizzle with olive oil, maple syrup and salt. Toss to coat. 3. Roast the sweet potatoes for 20 minutes, then stir. Place the turkey medallions on top of the sweet potatoes and sprinkle with a couple pinches of salt. Roast for 15 minutes; the turkey should register 165°F on an instant read thermometer. If not, roast for an additional 10 minutes, to reach 165°F. Serve sweet potatoes with turkey on top.

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Almond Crusted Pork Tenderloin with Bacon Balsamic Brussels Sprouts MAKES 4 SERVINGS

There’s something about a crunchy nut crust that makes a piece of meat irresistible. Roasting it on a bed of bacon-y Brussels sprouts is a perfect pairing, and the sweet, tender Brussels sprouts complement the nutty pork.

1 (1-11/4 pound) pork tenderloin 4 slices smoky bacon 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1/2 cup whole almonds 1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 large egg 1 tablespoon water 1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved (4 cups)

NUTRITION

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Drain the pork if it’s in a sealed package, and pat dry with paper towels. Place on a tray or plate to come to room temperature. 2. Chop the bacon into 1/2-inch pieces and sprinkle on a rimmed sheet pan. Roast for 20 minutes, until browned and crisped. If desired, pour off excess oil. 3. Mix the balsamic vinegar and brown sugar in a cup and reserve. 4. In a food processor, place the almonds and pulse to chop coarsely—there should be a few ¼-inch chunks. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and stir in the paprika, thyme and salt. 5. In a large bowl, whisk the egg and water lightly, then place the pork in the bowl and turn to coat. Put the pork back on the plate and use your hands to cover it with the almond mixture, pressing to adhere. 6. Add the Brussels sprouts to the pan and pour the balsamic mixture over them. Use your spatula to mix well, and try to turn most of the sprouts cut-side down. Place the pork on top. Press any excess nut mixture on the tenderloin. Bake for about 30 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 150°F. Let the pork stand for 5 minutes before carving. Serve with sprouts. 

CHILE-LIME CHICKEN W. ROASTED PEPPERS & OLIVES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 368 (161 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 4g); CHOL 98mg; SODIUM 686mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 37g

ROOT VEGETABLES W. STEAKS & BLUE CHEESE SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 527 (246 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 11g); CHOL 154mg; SODIUM 890mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 52g

GINGER-HONEY SHRIMP W. GREEN BEANS & KIMCHEE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 234 (47 from fat); FAT 5g (sat. 1g); CHOL 130mg; SODIUM 676mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 21g

SWEET POTATOES W. TURKEY MEDALLIONS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 443 (57 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 106mg; SODIUM 583mg; CARB 51g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 45g

PORK TENDERLOIN W. BRUSSELS SPROUTS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 454 (238 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 7g); CHOL 132mg; SODIUM 547mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 38g

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Slow Cooker Superfoods Restorative and nutritious meals come together in the convenience of the slow cooker RECIPES BY NICOLA GRAIMES WITH CATHY SEWARD 40 real food winter 2018

ooking with “superfoods” doesn’t mean you need to use exotic,

expensive or hard-to-find ingredients—not when simple, everyday fresh foods have the power to support and boost our health. And, when you prepare them in the slow cooker, it’s a win-win situation, bringing together the ease of cooking with good-foryou foods. You may even hang onto more nutrients from vegetables than some other cooking methods. Nutrients released from the veggies are contained in the slow cooker within any liquid, stock or sauce of a recipe. But it’s more than just about physical well-being—superfoods can be as good for the soul as they are for the body, says Nicola Graimes in the introduction to her book, “Super Food Slow Cooker.” Consider the physical and mental restorative powers of a tasty, nutritious bowl of soup, such as her spiced carrot and lentil soup here. Beyond classic comfort foods, you can use your slow cooker to start the day off with apple spice porridge or to jazz up dinner with jerk chicken tacos that provide a great source of low-fat protein and a dose of veggies. For a healthier slant on a party bite, try the pulled pork served atop crisp lettuce leaves with a pop of quinoa. Whether you need help putting a healthy dinner on the table during the busy holiday season or preparing a restorative and easy meal in the months ahead, you can find a great resource in your trusty slow cooker. —Mary Subialka

Spiced Carrot and Lentil Soup with Cashew Cream MAKES 4 SERVINGS | LOW 6-8 HOURS, HIGH 4-5 HOURS

Revered for centuries for their health-giving properties, spices play a big part in my cooking. One of my most favorite blends is panch phoran, a Bengali spice mix that literally means “five spices.” The fragrant combination of fennel seeds, cumin seeds, fenugreek, black mustard seeds and nigella seeds adds a great base note to this nutritious golden soup. (It is also fine to substitute garam masala for the panch phoran.) It comes topped with a cashew cream, but is equally good with a spoonful of thick live natural yogurt. 1 tablespoon ghee or coconut oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 4 large carrots, about 1 pound 5 ounces, diced 1 large celery stick, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons panch phoran (see Cook’s Note) 1 2-inch piece ginger root, coarsely grated 2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2⁄3 heaped cup dried split red lentils, rinsed 4 cardamom pods, bruised 1⁄2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 4 cups hot vegetable stock 1 tablespoon lemon juice sea salt and cracked black pepper broccoli sprouts, to serve For the Cashew Cream 1⁄2 cup cashew nuts 5 tablespoons milk of choice, plus extra if needed 1. Heat the ghee or coconut oil in a saucepan, add the onion and sauté for 8 minutes until softened. Add the carrots, celery, panch phoran, ginger and garlic and sauté, stirring occasionally for another 2 minutes. 2. Transfer the onion mixture to the slow cooker pot, stir in the lentils, cardamom, red pepper flakes, turmeric and stock. Cover and cook on low for 6 to 8 hours, or high for 4 to 5 hours, until the lentils and carrots are tender. 3. Meanwhile, make the cashew cream. Put the cashew nuts in a bowl, cover with just-boiled water and let soak for 1 hour until softened. Drain the nuts and tip them into a food processor or blender with the milk of your choice. Blend, occasionally scraping the mixture down the sides, until a thick, creamy consistency—add a splash more milk, if needed. Spoon the cream into a bowl and chill until ready to serve. 4. Remove the cardamom pods from the soup—very conveniently they rise to the surface—and using a stick blender, blend until thick and smooth. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Serve topped with a spoonful of the cashew cream and a few broccoli sprouts. Cook’s Note: It is fine to swap the 2 teaspoons panch phoran for 1 teaspoon garam masala. They taste very different, but garam masala will also taste good. Add it with the turmeric in Step 2.

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Jerk Chicken Tacos MAKES 4 SERVINGS | LOW 7-8 HOURS, HIGH 3-5 HOURS

Chicken is a great source of good-quality, low-fat protein. The marinade helps to keep the meat moist as it cooks. 2 red onions 1 medium-sized red chile, deseeded and roughly chopped 1 1-inch piece ginger root 1 large garlic clove, chopped 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar juice of 2 limes 1 tablespoon allspice 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons dried thyme 8 chicken thighs on the bone, skin removed 1 tablespoon olive oil sea salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

DON’T PEEK Don’t be tempted to lift the lid of your slow cooker while it’s cooking your meal. Every time you lift the lid, you will have to add 20 minutes to the cooking time to compensate for the drop in temperature. Food won’t stick and burn or boil over in the slow cooker, so no matter how tempting it might be, remember to keep hands off.

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To serve 1 large avocado, cut in half, pit removed, peeled and diced 1 handful chopped cilantro leaves 3 vine-ripened tomatoes, deseeded and diced 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 4 corn tortillas, warmed 4 handfuls arugula leaves 1. Chop a quarter of the onions and place in a mini food processor or blender with the chile, ginger, garlic, balsamic vinegar and juice of 1 lime and then blitz to a coarse paste. Stir in the allspice, cayenne pepper and thyme, and season with salt and pepper. Spread the paste all over the chicken thighs. Place on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and marinate in the fridge for a few hours, or overnight if time. 2. Cut the remaining whole onion into horizontal slices and place in the base of the slow cooker pot, then arrange the marinated chicken thighs on top, spooning over any residual marinade left on the plate. Cover and cook on low for 7 to 8 hours, or high for 3 to 5 hours, until cooked through. 3. Remove the chicken, then pull the meat away from the bones. Cover with foil to keep it warm. Discard the bones. 4. Scoop off any fat on the surface of the gravy and turn the slow cooker to high if on low. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, remove the onion to a strainer set over a bowl. Press the onion through the strainer into the bowl with the back of a spoon. Stir the onion paste into the gravy in the pot and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes or so until reduced. 5. While the gravy is cooking, finely chop the remaining onion and place in a bowl with the avocado, cilantro, tomatoes and the remaining lime juice. Season and stir gently until combined. 6. Arrange the chicken on the warmed tortillas, pour over a little of the reduced gravy, just enough to moisten the chicken, and top with a handful of arugula leaves and the avocado mixture.

Pulled Pork Lettuce Cups

Pickled Red Cabbage

MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS | LOW 8-10 HOURS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

To lend a healthy twist to this recipe, the pulled pork is shredded and served in a Little Gem lettuce leaf with quinoa and topped with a crisp zingy pickled cabbage.

1 tablespoon canola oil 1 tablespoon hot smoked paprika 1 tablespoon English mustard powder 1 teaspoon ground ginger 2 heaped tablespoons tomato paste 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons maple syrup 3 pounds 5 ounces skinless, boneless pork shoulder/ Boston butt, excess fat trimmed, tied with twine 1 large onion, cut into 8 thin wedges 1 large carrot, thickly sliced sea salt and black pepper

31⁄2 ounces red cabbage, shredded 1 large carrot, coarsely grated 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 1 teaspoon maple syrup ½ teaspoon fennel seeds salt and pepper, to taste 1. Mix together all the ingredients in a bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve Little Gem or Romaine leaves, cooked quinoa, toasted sesame seeds, chopped cilantro leaves and Pickled Red Cabbage, three times quantity (see recipe right) 1. Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat and sear the pork until browned all over—this will take about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the pork to a plate. 2. Mix together the smoked paprika, mustard powder, ginger, tomato paste, vinegar and maple syrup. Season with salt and pepper, then spread three-quarters of the rub all over the pork. You could leave the pork to marinate for 1 hour, if time allows. 3. Place the onion and carrot in an even layer in the bottom of the slow cooker pot, pour in 2 tablespoons water and top with the pork. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 10 hours until the pork is tender and almost falling apart but not quite. Carefully lift the pork out of the pot onto a plate, cover with foil and let rest while you finish cooking the sauce. 4. Strain the juices in the pot into a small saucepan, pressing the onion and carrot through the strainer. Stir in the remaining rub and cook until reduced and thickened. 5. Shred the pork into strips, discarding any fat. Put the pork on a large serving plate and spoon enough of the sauce over to lightly coat the meat. 6. To serve, arrange the Little Gem or Romaine leaves on a serving plate and the quinoa, cilantro and pickled cabbage in separate serving bowls. Let everyone help themselves, placing a spoonful of the quinoa in a lettuce leaf and topping it with some of the pulled pork, a spoonful of pickled cabbage and a sprinkling of sesame seeds and cilantro.

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Super Three-Tomato Sauce MAKES ABOUT 5–51⁄2 CUPS, OR 15 1⁄3-CUP SERVINGS | LOW 9-10 HOURS

The success of this richly flavored tomato sauce relies on the quality of the raw ingredients as well as cooking it low and very slow— the longer you cook the sauce, the richer and more intensely flavored it becomes. I like to make this sauce in bulk and freeze it in portions. It’s excellent served just as it is, slightly chunky, or strained and smooth. Serve it with pasta or, alternatively, use as a base sauce for meat, poultry, seafood or vegetables.

4 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 pound 9 ounces vine-ripened tomatoes, cut into thin wedges, retaining the vines 2 (14-ounce) cans plum tomatoes 21⁄4 ounces sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and roughly chopped 1⁄2 ounce basil sprigs sea salt and cracked black pepper, to taste 1. Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onions and cook over a medium-low heat for 10 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and fresh tomatoes and cook for a minute or so, gently crushing the tomatoes with the back of a spatula. 2. Transfer the onion mixture to the slow cooker pot with the canned plum tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, basil and the reserved vines from the fresh tomatoes, if you have them. Cover and cook on low for 9 to 10 hours. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 3. For a chunky sauce, remove the vines and roughly mash the sauce in the slow cooker using a potato masher. For a smooth sauce, pass it through a strainer into a bowl; it’s easier to do this a couple of ladlefuls at a time. Take your time pressing the tomatoes through the strainer to extract all the goodness and occasionally discard any skin and seeds that build up in the strainer. The sauce is ready to use as you wish or it can be left to cool and chilled for up to 3 days or frozen.

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Apple Spice Porridge MAKES 3 TO 4 SERVINGS | LOW 7-8 HOURS, HIGH 2½-3 HOURS

There’s something quite decadent about waking up to a pot of comforting, sustaining porridge all ready to be spooned into serving bowls. To stop the porridge drying out, it’s best cooked in a water bath set within the slow cooker; it also makes washing up easier. If cooked on low it’s feasible to let it cook overnight without spoiling, but if you prefer your porridge with a bit of bite and texture, cook it on high for a shorter length of time—it will still be lovely and creamy.

NUTRITION

1½ cups jumbo porridge oats 1 teaspoon good-quality vanilla extract 1 heaped teaspoon apple pie spice, plus extra for sprinkling 1⁄2 teaspoon turmeric pinch of sea salt 2 apples, cored and grated ground flaxseeds, chopped walnuts, blueberries and milk of choice, to serve 1. Mix together the oats, vanilla, apple pie spice, turmeric, salt and 3 cups cold water in a 1-quart heatproof bowl until combined. Place the bowl in the slow cooker pot and pour in enough cold water to come two-thirds of the way up the side of the bowl if cooking on low. (If cooking on high for the shorter length of time, add hot water.) 2. Cover and cook on low for 7 to 8 hours, or high for 21⁄2 to 3 hours, until thick and creamy. Towards the end of the cooking time, stir in one of the grated apples and let it soften in the heat of the porridge—it will take about 10 minutes. 3. Using oven mitts, carefully lift out the bowl and stir well to remove any crusty bits around the edge, if necessary. Spoon the porridge into serving bowls and top with the remaining grated apple, flaxseeds, walnuts and blueberries as well as a sprinkling of extra apple pie spice. You may like to add a splash of milk as well. 

CARROT AND LENTIL SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 253; FAT 5g (sat. 3g); SODIUM 1900mg; CARB 38g; FIBER 10g; PROTEIN 11g

JERK CHICKEN TACOS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 613; FAT 30g (sat. 8g); SODIUM 1500mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 43g

PULLED PORK LETTUCE CUPS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 247; FAT 9g (sat. 2g); SODIUM 400mg; CARB 8g; PROTEIN 32g

THREE-TOMATO SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 108; FAT 7g (sat. 1g); SODIUM 200mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 2g

APPLE SPICE PORRIDGE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 223; FAT 4g (sat. 1g); SODIUM 100mg; CARB 38g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 5g

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Sweet Nostalgia Channel your inner vintage spirit and try one of these goodies for your next get-together RECIPES BY JESSIE SHEEHAN

46 real food winter 2018

sing vintage recipe booklets from decades gone by, lawyer-turned-baker Jessie Sheehan took it upon herself to curate some of the best vintage desserts from the late 1800s to the 1950s. The result of her years of collecting,

baking and experimenting is “The Vintage Baker,” a cookbook totally dedicated to popular as well as under-the-radar vintage desserts—complete, of course, with modern touches and flairs. The next time you sign up to bring a dessert to a family event or dinner party, try one of these recipes. Not only are they delicious, but they might remind someone of a sweet childhood dessert made lovingly by a beloved family member or friend. —Katie Ballalatak

Pumpkin-Chocolate Tart with Cinnamon Whipped Cream MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Pumpkin pie is a classic, so it should come as no surprise that almost every vintage booklet includes a recipe for one. But, not with the addition of a chocolate cookie crust and a chocolate drizzle like this one! I tweaked the recipe from “The Rumford Modern Methods of Cooking” (1921) and added an extra egg and heavy cream instead of milk for a more luscious custard. The chocolate cookie crust is sublime with the pumpkin, both in color and taste, but if you’re a purist, by all means use a traditional pastry dough. For the Chocolate Cookie Crumb Crust 6 ounces crisp chocolate wafer cookies 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted For the Pumpkin Filling 1 cup heavy cream 2 eggs 1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract 5 tablespoons packed light brown sugar 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 10 ounces pumpkin purée ½ teaspoon table salt ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon (rounded) ground nutmeg For the Chocolate Drizzle 2 ounces dark chocolate, melted For the Cinnamon Whipped Cream 3 cups heavy cream, chilled ½ cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon For the Crust 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Place the wafers and granulated sugar in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade and process until finely ground. Add the melted butter and process until combined. 3. Transfer the crumbs to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom and, using your fingers, press the crumbs evenly on the bottom of the pan and up the sides. Place the pan in the freezer for at least 30 minutes or up to 3 days, tightly covered in plastic wrap.

4. Bake the crust for 8 to 10 minutes, rotating at the halfway point, until dry to the touch and slightly puffy. For the Filling 1. In a large bowl, add the cream, eggs and vanilla and whisk to combine. 2. In a medium saucepan, combine the brown and granulated sugars, pumpkin purée, salt, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture bubbles and sputters. Continue to cook and stir the mixture for another 5 minutes. 3. Whisk the pumpkin mixture into the egg mixture, a little at a time so it does not curdle the eggs. If lumpy, strain the mixture through a wire mesh sieve, and transfer to the prepared tart pan. Do not fill the tart past the edge of the crust. 4. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Begin checking the tart at 15 minutes; it is ready when the center just jiggles the tiniest bit. Let cool completely on a wire rack on the counter before placing it in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or up to overnight, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap. For the Chocolate Drizzle 1. Place the melted chocolate in a zippered plastic bag, cut a very tiny hole in the corner of the bag, and drizzle the chocolate over the tart. Let harden before serving. For the Whipped Cream 1. Place the cream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk on medium to medium-high speed until the cream begins to thicken, 2 to 3 minutes. 2. Add the confectioners’ sugar, vanilla and cinnamon and continue whisking until medium peaks form. Serve slices of tart topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The tart will keep, tightly covered in plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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Chocolate-Marshmallow-Walnut Fudge with Sea Salt MAKES 36 SQUARES

I rejiggered the recipe for Campfire Marshmallow Fudge from “A Book of 150 Recipes ~ Prepared with Campfire . . . Marshmallows” (1928) because I love the booklet almost as much as I love the combo of marshmallows and chocolate. To avoid using a fussy candy thermometer, I used sweetened condensed milk, which produces a fudge-like consistency in less time. Deeply toasted walnuts and a generous sprinkling of salt cut the sweetness of the marshies. 16 ounces dark chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon table salt 1¼ cups sweetened condensed milk 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 2 cups toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped (see Cook’s Note) 3 cups mini marshmallows flaky sea salt, for sprinkling turbinado sugar, for sprinkling 1. Grease an 8x8x2-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray or softened butter. Line with parchment paper. 2. Put the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl and set over a saucepan of simmering water. Stir constantly with a rubber spatula until the chocolate melts. 3. Add the salt, sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. The chocolate may seize up temporarily. Over medium to medium-high

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heat, continue stirring until the mixture is smooth. Once smooth, stir for about 1 minute more, and remove from the heat. 4. Add the walnuts and marshmallows and stir with a wooden spoon until they are fully incorporated (the marshmallows will not melt). 5. Transfer the fudge to the prepared pan, drape with plastic wrap and flatten with your hands. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and turbinado sugar. 6. Place in the refrigerator until hard, about 2 hours. 7. Using a sharp paring knife, cut into 36 pieces and serve. Fudge will keep tightly wrapped on the counter for up to 1 week. Cook’s Note: To make toasted nuts, place the nuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350°F oven. Toast for 10 to 20 minutes until fragrant and lightly browned. Stir the nuts with a wooden spoon every 5 minutes or so, to ensure they brown evenly. Watch carefully—nuts can burn very quickly.

Butterscotch–Potato Chip Balls MAKES 36 COOKIES

I discovered a recipe for Chip Balls in “Good Housekeeping’s Book of Cookies” (1958) and realized that folks have been putting crazy add-ins like potato chips in their cookies since the mid-1950s. I’m a huge fan of cookies like this, particularly if the ingredients combine the sweet and the salty in new ways. So I took the Chip Balls recipe and added butterscotch chips, which pair with salt so beautifully. Then I quadrupled the amount of potato chips called for, rolled the balls in crushed potato chips and finished them with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. 21/3 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon table salt 1 cup butterscotch chips 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted 1 cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 1 egg 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 5 cups kettle-style potato chips flaky sea salt, for sprinkling 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking soda and salt and whisk together. Add the butterscotch chips and set aside. 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the melted butter and sugars on medium-high speed until thick, light and glossy, 3 to 5 minutes, scraping the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. 4. Decrease the mixer speed to medium-low and add the egg and yolk, one at a time, beating well and scraping the bowl after each addition with a rubber spatula. Add the vanilla and mix to combine. Add the dry ingredients all at once, mixing just to combine. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer and add 3 cups of the potato chips to the dough, combining and crushing the chips with a rubber spatula. In a small bowl, crush the remaining 2 cups of potato chips. 5. Scoop the dough into 1½-tablespoon balls with a cookie scoop or measuring spoon, rolling each ball in the leftover crushed chips, and evenly place 12 on the prepared baking sheet. 6. Sprinkle each cookie with flaky sea salt, and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, rotating at the halfway point, until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and press down on each cookie with a spatula to slightly flatten. Repeat with the remaining cookie dough. 7. Let cool briefly and serve warm, because who doesn’t love a cookie warm from the oven? The cookies will keep in an airtight container on the counter for up to 3 days.

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Coconut Blitz Torte MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Allow me to introduce you to the blitz torte: a two-layer cake in which cake batter is covered in glossy, soft meringue and baked. Once cooled, the meringue-coated layers are placed atop each other with a layer of whipped cream (or fruit filling) sandwiched between them. I took the blitz torte recipe from “Cake Secrets” (1953) and gave it a modern makeover via coconut in all its forms. Shredded coconut goes into the cake batter, coconut oil replaces some of the shortening, coconut milk is used instead of regular milk, and a coconut whipped cream filling is swapped for the pineapple one. Yes, coconut lovers, I’ve got your back. For the Cake 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon table salt ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature ¼ cup coconut or vegetable oil 11/3 cups granulated sugar 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 5 egg yolks, at room temperature ¾ cup full-fat coconut milk, at room temperature ¾ cup lightly packed shredded sweetened coconut

milk, scraping the bowl as needed with a rubber spatula. Stop the mixer and remove the bowl when there are still streaks of flour in the batter. Finish mixing by hand. 4. Fold in the coconut and transfer the batter to the prepared pans. Using a small offset spatula or butter knife, smooth the tops of the layers and set them aside while you make the meringue.

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the top oven rack, as the meringue rises quite a bit while baking. Generously grease two 8x8x2-inch cake pans with nonstick cooking spray or softened butter. Line the bottom of the pans with parchment paper and grease again.

For the Meringue 1. Clean the bowl of the mixer and the whisk attachment. 2. Place the egg whites in the cleaned mixer bowl with the cream of tartar, and whisk on medium speed until frothy. Add the granulated sugar in a slow and steady stream and continue to whisk the whites on medium-high speed, until glossy, soft peaks form. This will take up to 5 minutes or more. 3. Divide the meringue between the two cake pans and smooth the meringue over the cake layers with a small offset spatula or a butter knife. 4. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, rotating and sprinkling the coconut over each layer at the halfway point. The cake is ready when a tester inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs and the meringue topping has risen considerably and is lightly browned, billowy and crackly. Don’t be afraid to poke your meringue with the tester when checking on the doneness of the cake. It will deflate, but will do so anyway when you remove the cake from the oven. 5. Let the cakes cool completely on a wire rack before removing them from the pans, running a paring knife around the edge to release the meringue before doing so. Carefully invert them onto cooling racks and then immediately flip them back over so the meringue is on top.

For the Cake 1. In a medium bowl, add the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and whisk together. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium to medium-high speed until fluffy and light, 2 to 3 minutes, scraping down the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. Add the coconut oil, granulated sugar and vanilla and continue beating for another 3 to 5 minutes, until the mixture at least doubles in volume. 3. Decrease the speed to low and add the yolks, one at a time, scraping the bowl after each addition. Add the dry ingredients in three additions, alternating with two additions of the coconut

For the Whipped Cream 1. Place the cream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk on medium to medium-high speed until the cream begins to thicken, 2 to 3 minutes. 2. Add the confectioners’ sugar and coconut extract and continue whisking until medium peaks form. 3. Place one cake layer on a serving dish. Spread all of the whipped cream on top of it, using an offset spatula or butter knife. Place the second layer on top and press down lightly on the top of the cake. 4. Serve immediately, or let the cake sit at room temperature for up to 1 hour. The cake is best the day it is made, but will keep, lightly wrapped in plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

For the Meringue 5 egg whites, at room temperature ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup lightly packed shredded sweetened coconut For the Whipped Cream 1½ cups heavy cream ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon coconut extract, or to taste

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Deep-Fried Cardamom Cookies MAKES 60 COOKIES

I love all things fried and was so thrilled to discover that fattigmand, a traditional Norwegian fried holiday cookie was prepared by housewives in their mid-20thcentury kitchens. “Cookies: Westinghouse Christmas Cookie Cookbook” (no date) has a fattigmand recipe using nutmeg. I substituted a generous helping of cardamom, and added it to the confectioners’ sugar that I sifted over the just-fried cookies for a spicier pop. Traditionally, the cookies are rolled out and cut into diamond shapes. A small cut is made in the center and one end of the diamond is pulled through the hole. To simplify, I cut them into triangles and squeeze the two long ends together. 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons ground cardamom or cinnamon, divided ¾ teaspoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon table salt 2 eggs, at room temperature 1 egg yolk, at room temperature 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1/3 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1/3 cup heavy cream, at room temperature vegetable oil for frying 1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted, for dusting

NUTRITION

1. Line a wire rack with a thick layer of paper towels or 1 or 2 large paper grocery bags and set near the cooktop. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 1½ teaspoons of the cardamom, baking powder and salt. 3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolk, vanilla and granulated sugar. Stir in the butter and the cream. Set a wire mesh sieve over the egg mixture. Sift the dry ingredients over the wet and gently fold to combine with a rubber spatula. Do not overmix: A few streaks of flour is okay. 4. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, up to 3 days. 5. Lightly flour a work surface, and, with a rolling pin, roll the dough into an 18-inchby-12-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick. Cut out 3-inch-by-2-inch obtuse triangles (the kind with 2 long sides). Squeeze the ends of the two long sides of the triangle together and place on the prepared baking sheet. 6. Fill a large heavy saucepan with about 2 inches of oil. Attach a deep-fat/candy thermometer to the side of the pan and heat the oil over medium-high heat until the temperature reaches 375°F. 7. Whisk together the remaining ½ teaspoon cardamom and the confectioners’ sugar in a small bowl. Set aside. 8. Fry the cookies, 2 or 3 at a time, depending on the size of your saucepan—do not crowd them—for 2 to 3 minutes, flipping the cookies after about 1 minute, until puffy and lightly browned all over. Place the cookies on the prepared rack. Using a fine-mesh sieve, generously dust with the confectioners’ sugar. 9. Serve immediately. Fattigmand are best served warm on the day they are made. 

PUMPKIN-CHOCOLATE TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 666 (448 from fat); FAT 51g (sat. 30g); CHOL 199mg; SODIUM 334mg; CARB 49g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 6g

WALNUT FUDGE W. SEA SALT: PER SERVING: CALORIES 154 (74 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 3g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 247mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g

POTATO CHIP BALLS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 157 (71 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 5g); CHOL 24mg; SODIUM 220mg; CARB 20g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

COCONUT BLITZ TORTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 545 (274 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 22g); CHOL 129mg; SODIUM 261mg; CARB 62g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 6g

CARDAMOM COOKIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 74 (43 from fat); FAT 5g (sat. 1g); CHOL 13mg; SODIUM 38mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

winter 2018 real food 51

The Soul of Food

Chef Carla Hall’s journey to renew respect for everyday foods of the South brings her back to her roots and updates soul-food favorites with tasty twists BY TARA Q. THOMAS

hen Carla Hall was going to culinary school, the last thing she wanted to cook was soul food. She had grown up in Nashville, home of “hot chicken” and the land of grits, in a respected family on “the good side of town.” Smart, beautiful and sophisticated, she graduated from Howard University in Washington, D.C., and flew to Europe to pursue a modeling career, making a name for herself among friends for the food she whipped up in her downtime. But by the time she made it through Maryland’s L’Academie de Cuisine, she didn’t want to risk being confined by stereotypes. “I didn’t want to be the black girl who makes fried chicken,” Hall says over the phone one morning, explaining how she got from southern food to fancy French chef and back again with her latest book, “Carla Hall’s Soul Food.” After culinary school, she stopped frying chicken and braised it in red wine instead and she turned cornmeal into silky polentas rather than bread. That approach catapulted her through the ranks of professional kitchens to earn the title of executive chef, and it got her into the

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kitchens of D.C.’s elite, who hired her as a private chef and engaged her company to cater their stylish fêtes. Then she landed a spot as a contestant on Bravo’s “Top Chef” reality competition cooking show. As Hall tells it, that’s when she came back to soul food. “Here I am trying to do this thing, and there’s all this fancy food, to my left, to my right, all beautifully plated,” she remembers, thinking back to the pressures of the televised competition. “And I thought, ‘I have to do that.’” But in that moment of near-panic, she conjured up her grandmother’s advice: “It’s your job to be happy, not rich. If you do that, then everything else will follow.” Thinking of the dishes that her granny had made, she infused that spirit in her cooking and worked classic French techniques into the recipes. The results made her an instant star. In one episode, Jacques Pépin is heard murmuring, “I could die happy with this dish,” as he tastes her buttered peas—a recipe inspired by the carrots-and-peas of her childhood, dressed up with lemon and tarragon, à la française. And she cooked with such warmth and abandon, hollering her

“We all want to be validated. I want to feel proud of this food—and I want other people to feel proud of it, too.” —Carla Hall

ALL PHOTOS GABRIELE STABILE

it came about—to all the myriad cultural influences that have informed it, and the historical acts that shaped it. “That’s why I had to do this book,” Hall says. “We all want to be validated. I want to feel proud of this food—and I want other people to feel proud of it, too.” But first, she says, she had to figure out what soul food is. “We already know the celebration foods—the fried chicken and mac-n-cheese, the saucy ribs—those are the foods that traveled well and have survived. But what about the everyday?” To find the answers, she started out in the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture, a branch of the New York Public Library, and then ventured out on a road trip that wound

through the South, stopping to talk to chefs and farmers along the way. What she found was obvious but entirely forgotten in a world where fried chicken is never farther away than the nearest KFC. Soul food was farm-to-table cooking before that phrase had any cachet. Soul food was what the slaves made, working off the memory of their African culture and using whatever they could grow and gather in the New World. Black-eyed peas? Brought from West Africa, they were used to keep down weeds around the edges of the fields, and since they weren’t a cash crop, the slaves could take them to eat, Hall explains. The proverbial “mess of greens”? That wasn’t just collards—that was any green they could

trademark “Hootie hoo!” that the fans loved her. She went two rounds on “Top Chef,” then was hired as a host on ABC’s “The Chew,” a position she held until its seventh and final season this year. “I don’t think I’d be here now if it wasn’t for ‘Top Chef,’” she muses. The issue is, she explains, that people don’t have much respect for soul food. “I’ve done cooking shows where someone’s cooking Italian food, making pasta, and people are ooohing over it, saying, ‘Oh yeah, that’s their wheelhouse,’” she says. “Then you have someone cooking soul food, and they’re like, ‘Oh, just that?’” To many people in the U.S., soul food looks like everyday food; it’s so familiar they don’t give any thought to how

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—Carla Hall

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It’s also important to recognize that soul food isn’t some immutable cuisine that can’t change over time. That’s why Hall has included recipes like the “smashed beets” inspired by a recent meal she had at Nashville’s Rolf & Daughters, or the salad of peaches and tomatoes from chef Marvin Woods of Charleston, South Carolina. To her, the most important factor in soul food is who’s cooking it. “I make it simple and tell people that soul food is made by African-Americans,” Hall says. “It’s like a Negro spiritual versus a hymn.” There’s plenty of overlap with southern cooking, she points out; the difference is only in who holds the spoon. And therefore, it’s as alive and evolving as the people making it. This realization was a defining point for her book, in fact. “You know that soup with the tomatoes and okra in the book? That was a turning point for the book,” she says. “I wanted to turn on the head people’s idea of soul food, but when Genevieve Ko, my cowriter, and I got into the kitchen with a bunch of ingredients, I was thinking, ‘How am I going to do this, what does this look like?’ And she said, ‘Just start cooking.’ ” The tomato part was easy for her, Hall says—she just approached it like she would any soup, sautéeing some onion and garlic in a pot, then adding aromatics and the tomatoes. It was the okra that was the sticking point. Traditionally, the soup is cooked long and slow to draw out okra’s viscous juices. But, Hall admits, “I don’t like slippery, slimy okra, and I’m determined to show people that it doesn’t have to be like that. So I thought, let’s just roast it.” Seared in a 400˚F oven, the okra got crunchy instead of slimy. “I put it into the soup for just a few minutes, and when we tasted it, we thought, ‘This is it!’” Hall says. It’s in essence an old soul-food favorite brought up-to-date. “Long cooking made sense at the time,” Hall explains. “You weren’t present in the kitchen; you had to do passive cooking. You were out doing something else. And, a lot of these recipes were done in the summer. You didn’t want to be in the kitchen.” Times are different; you may have to get dinner on the table in only 30 minutes. And, hey, if you don’t like slimy okra, why cook it that way? Hall uses her creativity to bring back old forgotten ingredients as well, like millet and sorghum. Both grains were staples brought over from Africa, where they were mainly made into hearty porridges. She uses millet as

HEADSHOT ABOVE LEFT MELISSA HOM

Vegetable-based recipes are not only an integral part of soul food, but can be “so comforting they taste like big ol’ hugs.”

get, both purposefully planted (like collards and kale) and volunteer (dandelion greens). And forget about meat. Ham hock if you could get it, and you would stretch it by simmering it long and slow in something with plenty of liquid, which you could sop up with cornbread to make a filling meal. Chickens were kept for eggs, not legs. But, as much as a slave’s diet was limited, it didn’t lack in flavor. Hall talks about “the trinity of sweet, heat and sour” as a soul food signature, and she works it in to everything from a black-eyed pea salad to a spicy kale pistou. But she also points out that since the ingredients were so fresh, food had flavor without even needing seasoning. “One of the dishes that surprised me was shrimp and grits,” Hall says. “It was at a Sunday dinner at B.J.’s” [B.J. Dennis, a Charleston chef whose roots in South Carolina’s coastal islands go back eight generations] “and we were talking with his mom about shrimp and grits. Here’s a dish that’s usually got gravy and lots of butter and maybe even cheese in the grits, but his mom said, ‘We had really good shrimp, and we wanted to have a dish to show them off. Grits were just the grits, maybe a bay leaf and some salt and pepper.’ Then it hit me—if you have great ingredients, if you have all this flavor, you don’t have to put in all this fat.” The shrimp-and-grits recipe she put into her book also eschews the milk and butter, letting the flavor of the shrimp shine through. “At some level, farm-to-table cuisine is glorifying what always was,” Hall says. “Celebration foods—maybe you had them four times a year. But now that we’re more affluent, we can have them once a week, three times a week—not because we’re supposed to, but because we can. And in this, we forget the everyday foods.” And, of course, we pay for it: in rising cholesterol rates, expanding waistlines and poorer bank accounts (because we aren’t frying the chicken ourselves; we’re stopping by Popeye’s or KFC to pick up a bucket on the way home from work). Not only is it historically important to recognize that there is more to soul food than a few widely known, gut-busting dishes, but it’s also important to regain our balance and discover, as Hall did, that vegetable-based recipes are not only an integral part of soul food, but can be, as she puts it, “so comforting they taste like big ol’ hugs.”

others might quinoa, in a quick pilaf with roasted cauliflower and raisins; the sorghum gets tossed with soft, sweet cubes of butternut squash and toasted pumpkin seeds for a dish that’s welcome on any holiday table. Would the slaves that brought the grains over on the Middle Passage recognize these dishes? Maybe not—but they’d recognize the resourcefulness that went into their creation. So rather than stressing over what’s “authentic” and what’s not, Hall just asks you to honor soul food for what it is—a uniquely African-American cuisine that originated with the slaves brought over from Africa, and which continues to evolve to this day. It’s a cuisine born of frugality and resourcefulness, of careful attention and care paid to the land. It can be rich and opulent, like celebrationday chess pies and barbecued ribs, or it can be as simple as a bean salad tossed with whatever’s ripe in the garden that day. To get you started, Hall offers this recipe for a black-eyed pea salad (at right), noting that if tomatoes are out of season, pickled vegetables add snap and brightness to the dish. “Choc chow, quick pickled turnips, any sort of pickled thing would be really nice.” “On the show, when I’m a judge, I am a big one for telling people that it is so much better to go home being yourself than trying to be something else,” she says. “I’d rather be fired all day long for being authentic than to be something I’m not.” 

Black-Eyed Pea Salad with Hot Sauce Vinaigrette MAKES 4 SERVINGS

When I say black-eyed peas have a long history, I mean long. More than five thousand years ago, they were domesticated in West Africa. The crop spread throughout the continent, then traveled in slave ship holds to America. In the Carolinas, slaves planted black-eyed peas in the same way they had back home—along edges of fields to keep down weeds and enrich the soil. That’s why they’re sometimes called cowpeas and field peas. Originally eaten only by slaves, black-eyed peas became a part of all Southerners’ meals. But they hold a special significance in the heart of every AfricanAmerican. We eat them for good luck on New Year’s in a rice dish known as hoppin’ John. That tradition comes from a long history of black-eyed peas symbolizing luck and prosperity in Africa, where they’re part of spiritual ceremonies, too. They’re a part of our culinary DNA. And they’re delicious. Black-eyed peas are tender, skin to center, and this helps them soak up sauces. Because they’re nice and mild, I drench them with a hot sauce dressing, honeyed yet sharp with garlic and mustard. In this salad, cucumbers and onion balance the peas’ creaminess with crunch, and tomatoes burst juiciness. Down South, we call this a sitting salad. It can sit on the summer picnic table without wilting, so it’s the perfect potluck dish. Get ready for this salad to become one of your favorites.

2 garlic cloves, grated on a Microplane

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon yellow mustard 1 tablespoon hot sauce 1 teaspoon honey ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 (15-ounce) can black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained 2 mini cucumbers, cut into 1/2-inch dice 1/2 sweet onion, finely chopped 1 pint cherry tomatoes or grape tomatoes, halved 1/4 cup fresh dill 1. Whisk the garlic, vinegar, mustard, hot sauce, honey, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a large bowl until smooth. While whisking, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Whisk until emulsified. 2. Add the peas, cucumbers, onion, tomatoes, dill and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Toss until well mixed. You can serve this right away or let it sit at room temperature for up to 1 hour. The salad can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 1 day.

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pairings

Party Pours Wines to try with the buffet of flavors at holiday festivities BY MARY SUBIALKA

he holidays not only bring people together at the table but also foods of all kinds. Here are a few wines you’ll want to consider having on hand throughout the season to pair with a variety of fare. A glass of sparkling wine is not only a welcome way to greet guests but a good pairing with food throughout the festivities including seafood, turkey and even salty snacks. Champagne is the ultimate luxury, but for a more budget-friendly option try French crémant, which is a sparkling wine made in the same manner but produced outside the official Champagne region. Red wines to consider include Pinotage, especially with roast beef and root vegetables or lamb chops, suggests sommelier Madeline Puckette, cofounder of winefolly.com and coauthor of “Wine Folly: The Essential Guide to Wine” and the new book “Wine Folly: The Master Guide.” “This liquid-sunshine, red wine is a rarity found almost exclusively in South Africa,” she says. “It sounds like ‘Pinot’ and is technically related to Pinot Noir but tastes nothing like it! Wines are rich with blackberry and scorched cherry notes along with sweet tobacco and subtle minty, menthol flavors.” Great spots for this grape include Stellenbosch and Paarl in South Africa’s Western Cape. For ham or turkey and roast veggies, “Pinot Noir or Gamay are great for winter meals imbued

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food winter 2018

with aromatic brown spices (allspice, clove, cinnamon, etc.),” says Puckette. These wines have pure cranberry and raspberry fruits as well as delightful floral aromas, she adds—“perfect for a party where people are up and moving and lighter alcohol wines are preferred.” As for white wines, Puckette says, “It’s hard to pick just one white, but Soave is an upand-comer you might want to get to know.” Pronounced “SWAH-veh,” it is made with Garganega grapes near Verona in Italy. Great examples have aromas of white peach, honeydew melon, and subtleties of marjoram and salted orange, according to Puckette. “This wine is a great choice to cellar for up to five years and open up once a year to see how it evolves. It gets richer with flavors of hazelnut and tangerines. Delish!” 

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Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Winter 2018

Articles inside

The Soul of Food

Sweet Nostalgia

Slow Cooker Superfoods

One-Pan Roasts

Holiday Buffet