from the publisher
Welcome. Welcome to the premiere issue of LX Cincinnati. It is indeed our honor, as well as a tremendous pleasure to bring you this beautifully crafted, unique and distinctive coffee table publication. You’ll find it overflowing with local, national and international luxury lifestyle pictorials and features tailored specifically to your interests. In this issue, we are excited to share “The Evolution of an Institution,” the history of The Richter & Phillips Co. Sharon Naylor shares a story, “I Still Choose You,” about renewing your wedding vows. Leading UK fashion photographer, Zena Holloway, graces this issue with a beauty story entitled “Mermaiden.” Holloway sets her work apart from other fashion photographers by shooting exclusively underwater. “My Mother’s Wedding Dress” is a beautifully written story about memory, reflection, loss and looking to the future. Also in this issue, “pARTners a love story” about artists Christo and Jeanne Claude and how their love and collaboration literally changed the “landscape” of art. Be sure to visit us at The Richter & Phillips Co. We love hearing your stories and feel honored to be a part of your special moments. We promise to make your experience at The Richter & Phillips Co. memorable and rewarding. We will continue to strive for cutting edge fashion in our jewelry, while maintaining the high quality you have been accustomed to receiving. Above all, you are very important to us and we treasure your friendship and loyalty. Thank you for joining us on our newest venture. Enjoy your premiere issue of LX Cincinnati, with our compliments. Our best to you, Fred Fehr, Rick Fehr & Art Fehr
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Features
inside
Community 15 The Evolution of an Institution
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Lifestyle 19 I Still Choose You 61 Awesome 8:
A Golfing Adventure
Wealth 23 Longevity and the
Value of College
Photography 28 Honey Moon and Stars 50 Mermaiden: Photos by
The Evolution of an Institution Women’s Runway Report: Bridal
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Zena Holloway
Arts & Culture 26 My Mother’s Wedding Dress 46 pARTners Spotlight:
Christo and Jeanne Claude
Fashion 39 Runway Report: Bridal 43 Runway Report: Men’s Libation 57 Luke Donald & His
Hole-In-One Claret
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pARTners Spotlight: Christo and Jeanne Claude
on the cover
Publishers FRED FEHR, RICK FEHR & ART FEHR Associate Publisher CAROL RYAN Editor JON ROBERTS Art Director CHELSIE ROBERTS Featured on the cover is the talented photographer Monica Eng. She says, “Growing up in Singapore was a gateway for me to experience the multitudes of cultures and utilize those who surround me to layer my photography. I do not claim to inspire those who stand before my lens, for they are my greatest inspiration. I see her biting her lips and I see someone who has the years ahead running amok in her head. I see him shy away from her gaze and I see the beginning of a new life that is as delicate as it is dedicated.”
Graphic Designer ANGIE HALTER Graphic Designer MIGUEL SALGADO
LX: a coffeetable magazine LX® Magazine is published by Luxury Avenue, LLC, 500 N. Michigan Avenue, Ste. 300, Chicago, Illinois 60611. LX® accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts and or photographs and assumes no liability for products or services advertised herein. LX® reserves the right to edit, rewrite, refuse or reuse material, is not responsible for errors or omissions and may feature the same content on lxmagazine.com, as well as other mediums for any and all purposes. Copyright © 2012 Luxury Avenue, LLC. All rights reserved. The entire contents of LX® are protected by copyright© and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of the publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part or storage in any data retrieval system or any transmission by any means therefrom without prior written permission is prohibited. LX® and LX® Magazine are trademarks™ of Luxury Avenue, LLC. 8
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The Story. The Family. Blending the finest traditions of old world sensibilities with exquisite contemporary designs, Tacori’s highly regarded works of the jewelry maker’s art are coveted by glitterati appreciative of its unique and distinctive European flair all over the world; familyowned, the Tacori company’s philosophies and traditions have made it legendary within the ranks of the crafters of fine jewelry. Tacori’s designs are so intricate they defy duplication. Further, its strict marketing standards ensure its products are always presented in the most favorable manner possible. For these reasons and many more, the name Tacori has come to symbolize the absolute finest in presentation, quality, attention to detail and personal customer care. Capably guided by the strong, yet gentle hand of the company’s founder and family patriarch, Haig Tacorian, Tacori’s fine jewelry brilliantly mirrors the passion guiding the family whose name it bears. Tacorian left Europe with his wife Gilda in 1969 to start a new life in the United States. The principles upon which he founded and guides the company have made it one of the world’s premier brands. Paul Tacorian, the company’s president of sales & marketing, set the jewelry world on its ear with his innovative, full-page ads featuring achingly beautiful images of the masterworks his family creates. Tacorian’s advertisements were groundbreaking in that they were the first dynamically photographed, full-page, art quality advertisements run by a jewelry concern. So beautiful they could hang in an art gallery, it’s almost laughable today to think this wasn’t being done before he did it. Nadine Tacorian, the company’s president of operations, fiercely adheres to the standards set for the company, yet simultaneously engenders ever more creative takes on the traditional cues established by Haig Tacorian for the brand. Remarkably, even while inspiring outstanding creativity from the design staff, she has also introduced a myriad of efficiencies to the processes employed in crafting their creations. Together, in addition to creating and marketing intricately crafted artisan jewelry, the Tacorian family upholds an uncompromising legacy of passionately fusing classic elegance with modern inspiration.
“The Tacorian family upholds an uncompromising legacy of passionately fusing classic elegance with modern inspiration.”
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The Pieces. It’s been said jewelry tells stories of timeless qualities — stories that transcend time. In the case of Tacori, this radiates from the aura of heirloom elegance illuminating its progressive styles. Modern, yet traditional, at the core of every Tacori design is the company’s signature crescent half-moon pattern. The pattern is so distinctive Tacori was granted both a copyright and a trademark for it. The crescent halfmoon is so difficult to duplicate, when one sees it they can be unmistakably assured they are in the presence of an example of Tacori’s artwork. So timeless are the company’s creations, they just as readily grace the youthful beauty of a woman in her twenties as they do her grandmother. This quality sets Tacori’s heirloom pieces of timeless elegance apart from trendy “here today, gone tomorrow” designs endemic to mainstream fashion jewelry. Imbued with value transcending both time and currency, Tacori’s jewelry is nothing less than a work of fine art a woman can wear.
Whether it’s engagement or wedding rings, fine jewelry or diamonds, the Tacori name is engraved only after several degrees of rigorous inspection, certification and approvals have been conducted. Only the finest gold, platinum, and diamonds with at least G color and VS clarity will do. Setting aside the overarching beauty of the pieces themselves, these guidelines and processes ensure the transcending desirability of Tacori’s jewelry eternally endures.
Design Passion. From the innovative vision of the designers, to the crafting and polishing of the intricate signature crescent details, the creation of Tacori jewelry takes place under the Tacorian family’s guidance at their design studios in California. Their philosophy of personal care and quality guides every aspect of the process. Each piece is precisely matched to hand-selected gems. If it bears the Tacori name, you can be absolutely assured it has met the rigorous standards of quality and beauty unique to Tacori as established by Haig Tacorian, back in 1969.
Always innovating, one of Tacori’s most popular lines is its 18k925 creations rendered in 18-karat gold and the purest sterling silver. The Tacori 18k925 Collection represents a new collection of Tacori design; specifically referring to the 18-karat gold and 925 silver metal combination, which makes these pieces bold, fun and wearable. The new 18k925 Collection is full of colorful gemstones, stylishly taking iconic glamour and adding a modern Tacori twist. Tacori’s Dantela Collection beautifully juxtaposes the modern with the traditional and the classic with the unconventional. A veritable symphony of dazzling design and eye-catching allure, the collection’s name “Dantela” means “lace” in Romanian; a nod to the Tacorian family’s heritage. Also a singular work unto itself, the Tacori diamond is certified by no less than two external authorities (the GIA and GemEX), in addition to Tacori’s own diamond experts. Fewer than five percent of the diamonds considered by Tacori’s diamond experts make the grade. Because of this, Tacori’s exceptional gemstones carry a titanium-clad guarantee of quality and are certified to be conflict-free. Chosen specifically to mesh in perfect harmony with the company’s designs, few diamonds match the fire and brilliance displayed by a Tacori stone.
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THE
OF AN INSTITUTION By Lyndon Conrad Bell
America was a rapidly growing country in the latter part of the nineteenth century. While our ability to communicate instantaneously with anyone practically anywhere in the world might make it difficult to imagine today, back then, the U.S. Postal system was the killer app when it came to communications and commerce. Its power and reach bolstered by the emergence of the fledgling nationwide railroad network, among its many benefits, the Postal system offered exciting new shopping opportunities to Americans living in rural areas — which, by the way, was a good 75 percent of the population of the United States in those days. With the advent of Rural Free Delivery in 1896, for the first time, mail came to everyone at their homes, rather than forcing them to go to a centralized location to retrieve it. For enterprising entrepreneurs of the time, this opened an entirely new method of supplying goods to a much larger swath of the population than ever before. And while Aaron Montgomery Ward and Richard Warren Sears became the two best-known purveyors of catalogue goods of the time, the mail order catalogue model served many other retailers very well.
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One such organization was The Richter & Phillips Company, established in 1896 by C. Edward Richter and the Phillips brothers. Ideally positioned geographically in Cincinnati, Ohio to profitably serve the vast majority of Americans by mail, The Richter & Phillips Company offered jewelry, giftware, luggage, purses, trophies, plaques, clocks, electrical appliances, sporting goods, musical instruments and toys in their nationwide mail order catalogue. In addition to the catalogue business, Richter & Phillips also operated a retail location in downtown Cincinnati. Another commercial phenomena of the time; again, largely facilitated by the emergence of the railroad system, was the traveling salesman. According to the U.S. Census, the number of people reporting this line of work as their primary occupation went from 7, 262 in 1870, to 223,732 in 1930. And yes, Richter & Phillips employed a veritable army of traveling salesmen as well. The business model thrived for more than forty years before succumbing to the pressures of the Great Depression.
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“The corner of Sixth and Main streets provided the business with a very visible, high traffic location
Enter Fred W. Fehr. Himself a traveling diamond salesman, the German immigrant numbered The Richter & Phillips Company among his clientele. Upon learning the business was in bankruptcy and about to go under, Fehr put up his entire diamond inventory as collateral with the Second National Bank in Cincinnati to purchase The Richter & Phillips Company in 1930. Having had the experience of being a traveling salesman, recognizing the strengths inherent to the mail order catalogue business, and freed from the debt Richter and the Phillips brothers had accumulated, Fehr saw the potential for renewed success of the company. Together with his close associate Lawrence Fledderman, Fehr operated the company in the Temple Bar Building at the corners of Court and Main Streets in Cincinnati, where it had been established. Fehr’s background made him the logical choice to handle diamond and jewelry deals, Fledderman took care of everything else.
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From left to right: Art Fehr, Fred Fehr and Rick Fehr Some eighty-one years later, Fehr’s namesake, Rick W. Fehr III, now helms the company along with his brother Art. The two brothers grew up in the business, learning at the feet of their dad, Fred W. Fehr Jr., just as he in turn had learned the business from his dad, Fred W. Fehr . Frederick Fehr Jr. started working in the store in 1946. Brought into the business from the ground up, Fehr Jr. says; “I remember unloading trucks at 13 years old. We also used to print our own catalogues with heavy letterpress blocks. It was both expensive and a pain.” With the departure of Fledderman around 1960, the company joined the Merchandisers Association International, which offered turnkey catalogues to its membership. Coinciding somewhat with the need to move from the Temple Bar Building, the catalogue business began to wane, and so the decision was made to streamline the company’s offerings and focus more on jewelry and giftware. Settling the business in the historic Gwynne building at the intersection of Sixth and Main streets in downtown Cincinnati, Fred Fehr Jr. provided the company with a solid location from which to springboard the next phase of its evolution.
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The company’s website, the online auction site eBay, social media and email marketing, all comprise aspects of Richter & Phillips 21st century business model.
Says Rick Fehr; “The corner of Sixth and Main streets provided the business with a very visible, high traffic location, close to Proctor & Gamble and many other large companies. There is no question that being on that corner in the historic Gwynne Building, which, by the way was the original home of Proctor & Gamble, has added a great deal to the success of the business.” Fred W. Fehr retired in 1972 at 90 years old. His portrait still hangs in the store as a reminder to his heirs of both his sacrifices and successes. This is a legacy taken very seriously by the Fehrs. Meanwhile, today the internet has replaced the railroad as a conductor of commerce, and the contemporary Fehrs are solidly in tune with the times. While the merchandise offered by the company has gone more upscale and the catalogue showroom image of Richter & Phillips has faded into posterity, an evolution of the mail order aspect of the business remains. Just as their grandfather operated a catalogue business in addition to the “bricks and mortar” location, Rick and Art 18
have leveraged online sales in addition to the physical location of the store. The company’s website, the popular online auction site eBay, social media and email marketing, all comprise aspects of Richter & Phillips 21st century business model. Which once again proves, there’s really nothing new under the sun. Things simply evolve. Asked to define the philosophy of his continued success at the venerable company, Rick says; “I have never taken for granted that because we have been in business for so many years, we will automatically be in business next year. We have to change and be flexible, we have to move forward, work hard and stay in touch with our customer’s needs.” And yes, that’s exactly what his grandfather would have said too.
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I Still Cho o se yo u.
} or Writte n by Sharon Nayl os Images by MC Studi
Recapture the magic of your wedding day and tell your beloved “I still choose you” with a romantic wedding vow renewal celebration. Standing before one another, whether in a stylish designer gown and suit, or in bathing suits on a tropical beach, and speaking from the heart—telling your mate just how much more in love you are, how much you appreciate every moment, every gesture, every morning kiss and kindness—adds a depth to your marriage.
More wedding couples are choosing to renew their vows their way, whether in a grand wedding re-do at the country club with 150 guests and a masterpiece of a wedding cake, in their own backyard with their closest family and friends, or just the two of them at the ocean’s edge or in the church, synagogue or garden where they originally said their vows. They’re re-living the excitement of the wedding-planning (perhaps more enjoyably this time, without the input of ‘helpful’ parents,) touring ceremony sites together, tasting delectable cake sample bites, designing lovely bouquets and florals, selecting elegant invitations and of course, choosing their wedding vow renewal dresses and suits. A big trend now is to incorporate some element of the original wedding day into this celebration. Cher Floyd, who with her husband John has renewed their vows several times over the past twenty years, says of one celebration, “I used my original wedding veil, and had our original florist send similar flowers for us.” No matter the grandiosity of their plans, or the intimacy of a small affair, vow renewal couples experience that heart-flutter of excitement as they write new vows reflecting the bright points of the life they’ve lived together. They might repeat the same vows they spoke years ago, add new thoughts to that vow script, add their signature style and sense of
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“Most wedding couples say they haven’t felt as connected to one another in years as they do on this day.” humor this time around, and speak so sentimentally that tears come to their eyes. This is a moment dedicated to expressing appreciation and admiration for everything their partner does to enrich their life together, and to enrich their children. Most wedding couples say they haven’t felt as connected to one another in years as they do on this day. As an added bonus, wedding vow renewal couples say they love setting an inspiring example for their children and grandchildren, showing them that this is what a solid, loving and supportive marriage looks like, not the turbulent relationships they see on television reality shows and in celebrity gossip magazines.
Why Renew Now? It doesn’t have to be a 5th, 10th, or 25th milestone anniversary for you to renew your vows. Some couples do so on their very first anniversary, their 7th, their 12th—whenever the time feels right. A couple may wish to re-cement their bond after an extremely challenging year, such as one partner’s illness or job search struggles, or a military deployment. Or, they might re-new their vows in a joyful year, such as after their first child is born, and again when each additional child arrives. Some couples return to their original destination wedding resort each time, bringing their children with them to participate in their vow renewal celebration. It’s also become a trend to surprise a spouse with the “wedding re-do” she’s always wanted. If parents controlled the wedding plans, or if finances didn’t allow for that masterpiece wedding cake, the garden wedding, the sea of roses, if it rained on her dream garden wedding, she now gets the surprise of a lifetime: “Will you plan our wedding vow renewal celebration with me?” Tears will certainly flow with that romantic offer. She gets the do-over she’s always wanted, made all the sweeter by the fact that her partner suggested it.
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“Surprise ring upgrades are rising in popularity.”
The Wedding Ring Gets a Do-Over As Well
replaced by a new ring. She’s lived for years with, and cherished, the wedding ring placed on her finger at her wedding, and she would be disheartened to ‘trade it in’ for a newer model. A solution: take the stones from the original band and include them in the new band’s design, perhaps as stones embedded in the anniversary band. Or, the stones from the original band can be re-set as a new diamond pendant she can wear every day now and forever.
Open Editorial
, When Dr. Chris Kammer
planned a surprise vow renewal for his wife Jean Marie on their twentieth wedding anniversary, he also added a dazzling gift: “I had her wedding ring upgraded to a new platinum setting, and I also surprised her with a new anniversary band with twenty diamonds around the circle to wear with it.” Dr. Kammer’s present stunned not only his bride, but all of their family and friends in attendance.
Renewing your vows
Surprise ring upgrades are rising in popularity, and many husbands are giving an added thrill: they’re bringing their wives to the jewelry store to let them pick out their new, upgraded style elements. The shopping experience in itself adds wow factor to the gift, with the wife treated as a VIP by the jewelry shop staff. Some jewelry experts say they bring out a bottle of sparkling cider or Prosecco for these special couples, just as they do for their about-to-be-engaged couples shopping for the engagement ring. “Love should be celebrated,” says one jewelry store manager. “And we like to make their moment extra-special.” Dr. Kammer represents the high-end ring upgrade client who shops for finer metals, and a diamond-encircled anniversary band, perhaps an upgrade to larger wedding band stones with greater fire. Which brings up an important issue: the wife might not wish to have her wedding band 22
Great solutions if the original ring will remain untouched: get her a dazzling right-hand diamond or gemstone ring, or simply surround the original band with two new, stackable diamond-encircled bands. Perhaps each band can symbolize five years of marital bliss, perfect for a tenth wedding anniversary, or symbolizing each of the couple’s two children. When you add an element from the marriage to the ring upgrade, even a subtler design becomes priceless.
Other choices include adding gemstones to the new design, embedding larger diamonds, and adding personalized engravings (sometimes as a surprise.) And don’t forget that the husband’s wedding band can be upgraded as well; he may prefer a different style (such as hammered metals or diamond chips) than he chose in his younger years. Many couples with children love to include their kids in their vow renewals, expressing their love and admiration for the wonderful people their sons and daughters have grown to be, and promising to always support their dreams. As part of the renewal, it’s lovely to present diamond pendants, gemstone earrings or other precious gifts to the girls, as well as meaningful gifts to the boys. Grandchildren may be included in this gift presentation as well, for all to share in the joy of the day.
HOW MUCH MORE WILL YOUR DEGREE BE WORTH? By Lyndon Conrad Bell
In 1934, when Norman Rockwell painted this image, the cost of an undergraduate degree was $400.00 per year.
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With college tuitions steadily rising, an economy rebounding from the great recession, and the life expectancy of the average American steadily increasing, a question on the minds of many people—simply put—is it worth it? Conventional wisdom says absolutely, unequivocally, without a doubt, yes it is. After all, hundreds, if not thousands of studies have found the lifetime earnings potential of a college graduate is almost always significantly greater than that of an individual with no secondary education. Add to that, the fact that today’s college preps will potentially be in the workforce twenty more years than today’s retirees which only increases the value of a college education. In 2009, the U.S. Census Bureau’s American Community Survey started asking people with a bachelor’s degree to list their undergraduate major course of study. This enabled, for the first time, the ability to place a specific value on a particular major. For workers whose highest degree was a bachelor’s, incomes ranged from $29,000 for counseling-psychology majors to $120,000 for petroleum-engineering majors. However, the study also showed the median income for people with just a high-school diploma was about $32,000 vs. $55,000 for those whose highest degree was a bachelor’s. In other words, an individual with no college at all could potentially make more money over the course of their lifetime than an individual with a college degree—in some fields. There is another set of aspects of this discussion to consider though; the social attributes demonstrated by academically-oriented people, the value of the lifelong learning traits instilled in college graduates, and the broader perspectives afforded those with a college degree. A 2007 study by the College Board, New York found college graduates, regardless of major, are involved in the community and engage in charitable giving at more than twice the rate of high-school only graduates. Further, they live healthier lives and are more likely to experience increased longevity. 24
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“college graduates, regardless of major, are involved in the community and engage in charitable giving at more than twice the rate of high-school only graduates.” painting: Judy Palermo www.judypalermo.com
When this is considered along with the fact people are living longer in general, with all this added longevity will come significant earning potential. Further, as we move forward as a society, the best jobs will either be more technologically dependent or technologically oriented.
With this in mind, choosing a major should be about finding something you love to do. One should try to find something they love that will either (a) still be in demand many years from now, or (b) give them a foundation from which they can continue to evolve their skills and expertise as times change.
Maura Kastberg, executive director of Student Services at RSC: Your College Prep Expert in Schenectady, New York says; “In the high-tech world we live in, which is steadily becoming increasingly so, technology has replaced many jobs that are repetitive in nature. Plus, businesses are always looking for ways to do things more efficiently, more cheaply, and more safely. Companies are also looking to make their products and services easier for their customers to use. More and more, technology is the answer to those concerns.”
Which brings us to another hidden asset of a college education—the flexibility it gives people to evolve with the progression of their careers. Says Kastberg; “Most people today will have three to five different jobs over the course of their working lives. College lets people change their career focus more easily and is a foundation to build upon as technology advances. Taking additional courses to keep up with changes is much easier than having to start from scratch in a quickly changing world.”
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My MOTHER’S
Wedding
dress By Elizabeth Fergus-Jean Photos submitted
I found my mother’s wedding dress, sealed in a plastic bag, stuffed into an old tattered leather suitcase just a few months after my mother had passed away. At first I had no idea what it was, for it appeared to be a crumpled mass of old tulle and lace. Clearly it had not been thoughtfully stored away for safekeeping; it had been jammed into a bag and sealed away where it did not hold the power to stir up old memories. Yet when I unzipped the bag, wisps of the past seeped into the air. This wrinkled, slightly torn dress had once been beautiful; I knew this because I also found my mother’s wedding photos. She was stunning with her lace gloves and soft hopeful gaze. I wish my mother was with me so I could ask about her dress, her wedding and honeymoon; all stories I never heard yet longed to hear. I slipped on her dress, careful to not tear the aging lace. It fit; my body now as my mother’s, and I felt her presence around me. At first I felt a deep longing, and then curiosity washed over me as I began to slowly move this way and that, feeling the scratchy material brush against my skin. I lifted her veil to inhale her memory, dreaming of her, when she wore the dress on her wedding day. 26
I peered through the veil, seeking answers of her story, and finding those of my own imaginings-My daughter is getting married next year. Unlike my mother, I carefully sealed my wedding dress in the hopes that one day my daughter would want to wear it. But, she is indeed her mother’s daughter, for she too,
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showed no interest in wearing her mother’s wedding dress. And that is fine with me. A mother’s gift is sharing her love and supporting the choices her daughter makes. Dresses and fashion may come and go, but the memories that cling to their fabric transport us to rekindle our love of our past and our hope for the future.,
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Photographed By Monica Eng Interview By Chelsie Roberts
Photography & Styling Monica Eng www.vividshots.com Third Eye Brian Fisher make-up & Hair Jyue Huey from The Make-Up Room Wedding gowns from The Wedding Present model Daria Popova
C. When you are photographing a subject, what kind of transformation happens in you? How do you become part of the artistry that you are creating, and how is it different or the same as who you are in regular day to day life?
M. I am curious by nature. Whenever I meet someone interesting, get caught in a unique situation or watch a really nice movie. I often wonder how it feels to be in someone else’s situation—imagining the multitudes of emotions surrounding that situation. I later translate them into little stories through my lens.
C. Other than the art of photography, what other art forms do you incorporate into your work, or what meaning do you derive from other art forms?
M. I love music and dance. Whenever possible I try to incorporate them into my works. Almost all the time, I will have a certain song
in my mind that I would almost play on a loop during my shoot to get everyone into that mood during the shoot; sometimes we all get so sick of that song after the shoot, we never want to hear it again. I have done shoots based on the ballet, Giselle and the Moonlight Sonata, all with my own interpretation from a different view point. Next, I would love to do a shoot based on Tango; it’s the one dance I find absolutely enchanting. I would love to be able to master Tango one day and translate it into my photography.
“colour and light is basically like a life partner to a visual artist. You have to understand every intricate aspect to make the relationship work” 30
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C. Describe how you feel about color and light? M. Colours and light are inseparable. To see a full spectrum of colours you’ll need an adequate amount of light. To set the right
mood and message in an image, you’ll need to understand them well. Metaphorically speaking, colour and light is basically like a life partner to a visual artist. You have to understand every intricate aspect to make the relationship work as you would understand your life partner—what makes them tick, what makes them happy or sad.
C. How do you feel about love, life and one’s mark that they make on the world through imagination and imagery?
M. I think life is short and we should love and live to the fullest; always fight for your dreams and do what you love most. You don’t need a lot to live fully because the simplest things are the most wonderful. I think imagination and fantasy are the necessities of life; it’s a way of looking at life through the eccentric side and laughing at life’s realities.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
The Long and Short of It
Bridal
Spring 2012
Oscar de la Renta’s Garden Tea Party By Simone Goller
There was something enchanting in the air at the Oscar de la Renta showroom where he presented his Spring 2012 bridal collection on Monday, April 11, in New York. Always one to put on a show and create something awe-inspiring, de la Renta this season set the scene to something you would expect little girls to conjure up if they let their young and vivid imaginations run free. Always refined of course, these little women could be found hosting a tea party in the garden out back
Womens Runway Report Bridal
Designer Spotlight
surrounded by freesia and lavender scents as they sip tea, or at least gesture as such, in little white gloves and paint pictures for each other envisioning their fantastical wedding dreams.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
With the youthfulness to the collection came an understated elegance that only de la Renta could pervade. Long silhouettes with bodacious skirts composed of ruffles and organza florets gave the illusion of a woman running through a patch of petals as they joined together to adorn her body. Rabbit hair on a white feathered bolero and scarf meshed perfectly with the springtime garden fauna. Offering something novel to the bridal repertoire, de la Renta utilized the neckline in square shapes and more angular cuts. All 37 designs were white except for a couple of degrade silk organza gowns in pink and a tea length version in pale blue.
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sJLM COUTURE Womens Runway Report Bridal
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Pnina Tornai
Womens Runway Report Bridal
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Alexander McQueen Mens Runway Report
The Long and Short of It Men’s
Spring 2012
McQueen’s Brit Rock Hall of Fame By Godfrey Deeny
Though rock ‘n’ roll is an American term, when it comes to its iconography, it’s our British rock star cousins who occupy far more of the music’s visual history. The accepted wisdom is that the Cleveland, Ohio DJ Alan Freed first popularized “rock and roll,” on radio and that the first true record in the genre is “Rocket 88” by Jackie Brenston and his Delta Cats, an alias for Ike Turner. However, the first true rock gods, when it comes to fashion, are legends like the Beatles, The Rolling Stones and The Who. And that remained true through many decades, when UK stars as diverse as Joe Strummer, Bryan Ferry or Pete Doherty set
Alexander McQueen
Designer Spotlight
the sartorial agenda more than their colleagues across The Pond. Which brings us to the latest menswear collection from the house of Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton put it, “a history of a baby band, from their early shows, to more self-indulgence and on to huge mega stadium concerts.” Burton’s spring 2012 collection for McQueen was a tour de force of tailoring, a witty understanding of sartorial rock imagery and a counter blast to the self-indulgent whimsy. The true cool of these clothes was the way she could riff through all sorts of rock legend moments-spiffy mod hounds’ tooth suits, Chelsea spiv rocker, eighties synthesizer pop star, poetic new romantic and aristocratic country house amateur rocker to legend entering the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, in, but of course, Cleveland, Ohio. Whether flame printed jackets, Edwardian tails, revolutionary dandy striped pants or sleek gangster singer double-breasted jackets it was all pretty brilliant. So, Brit rockers, raise your hands in applause for Burton, few designers will ever dress 44
you quite so well.
Armani
Gucci
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pARTners The Love Story
Christo & Jeanne Claude By Lyndon Conrad Bell
Imagine having the following conversation with your spouse/significant other; “Hon, I have a great idea. I want to take 150 oil barrels and use them to block off a street downtown. When the police show up to clear them, I’m going to need you to hold them off so the press can document it while I attend a gallery opening in another part of the city. Do you think you can do that my love?” How well do you think that a question like that would be received? In the case of Christo Vladimirov Javacheff and JeanneClaude Marie Denat, her answer was, “Yes darling, of course I can.” That positive response enabled a seminal event in the life of their career, which ultimately attracted the pair enough notoriety to sustain a forty-eight year creative collaboration—which continues to birth some of the most monumental works of art the world has ever known. Seemingly pre-destined to meet and fall in love, Jeanne-Claude and Christo were both born on June 13, 1935—Jeanne-Claude in Morocco, Christo in Bulgaria. The two met in Paris in 1958, when, as a young artist, Christo was commissioned to produce a portrait of Jeanne-Claude’s mother, Précilda de Guillebon. Jeanne-Claude once said her life began the day Christo walked into her family’s home. And while Cyril, their son, born May 11, 1960, was the couple’s first collaboration, the pair went on to literally redefine the work of art. For many years, the fruitions of their efforts were credited only to Christo. And while it is true the overtly creative aspects of their projects sprang from Christo’s imagination, the real work of transforming the work from the firing of synapses in Christo’s brain to a tangible artifact capable of triggering responses in the brains of others fell largely to Jeanne-Claude. In 1994, the couple announced they would henceforth be known as a single entity, and further, all projects they’d created since 1964 would be retroactively labeled as the work of Christo and Jeanne-Claude. The announcement drew considerable criticism, as her role was perceived by many in the art world to be “merely” administrative. In response, Christo said, “The drawings are but the scheme for the project, after that, we do everything together. Everybody knows we’ve worked together for over 30 years. There’s no point in arguing about who does what. The work is all that matters.” In fact, the couple never flew together so in the event of a tragedy, their work could continue unabated.
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The phrase “Work Of Art” typically applies only to a finished piece. In the case of Jeanne-Claude and Christo’s installations, the “work of art” involves so much more than just the piece itself. A good example of this is the ground work laid for their seminal installation, Running Fence. Flowing gracefully across 24.5 miles of northern California’s Sonoma and Marin counties, Running Fence began near the town of Petaluma, before crossing U.S. Highway 101 as well as 14 roads in both counties. At its terminus, the fence slipped fluidly into the Pacific Ocean at Bodega Bay. The project required a 400-page Environmental Impact Study, hearings with both county’s commissioners, numerous city council meetings and individual permission from each of the 59 ranchers whose lands the fence would cross. The “work” of this art piece began in 1972. The actual physical installation process began four years later in April of 1976. Running Fence was completed on September 10, 1976 and stood for just under two weeks, before being removed on September 21, 1976. The scale of the work is almost unimaginable. The eighteen foot high fence was composed of 2,050 panels of white nylon fabric measuring eighteen feet wide by sixty-eight feet long. The fabric was suspended between a pair of steel cables by means of 350,000 hooks. The cables were in turn supported by 2,050 steel poles placed sixty-two feet apart and anchored three feet into the ground. Steel guy wires braced each of the steel poles. And while Running Fence is rightfully considered one of history’s most extraordinary works of art, getting the clearance to build it in the first place was the “work” of art too. Her husband’s most ardent supporter, Jeanne-Claude’s machinations behind the scenes—doing the “work” of art— are what ultimately saw their projects realized. An oft-overlooked aspect of Jeanne-Claude and Christo’s work is the fact it has always been entirely self-funded. All the related expenses, including the engineers, lawyers, installers, environmental analysis, traffic control, trash removal and sanitation at the sites have been borne by the artists without viewing fees, sponsorships or outside investments of any kind. Jeanne-Claude once quoted the cost of producing Running Fence at some 21 million (1970’s) dollars. That would be well over 60 million dollars today. The funding of their projects comes from the sales of smaller pieces of art created by the couple, as well as selling the preliminary sketches, renderings and models of the ultimate work. Eschewing the traditional artist/agency relationship, Jeanne-Claude fulfilled that role as well. Arguably, Christo would not be Christo without the efforts of Jeanne-Claude. And while she had no significant interest in art before Christo, she often said she would do whatever it took to ensure their success. If Christo had been a plumber, Jeanne-Claude is quoted as having said she’d have learned everything she needed to know about becoming a successful plumber. www.lxmagazine.com
Images top to bottom: Wrapped Reichstag, Berlin, Germany, 1971-95 Running Fence, Sonoma and Marin Counties, California, 1972-76
photos: Wolfgang Volz
Their next work, called Over The River is a plan to build a semi-translucent canopy some 5.9 miles long over a stretch of the Arkansas River between the towns of Salida and Ca単on City in south-central Colorado. The idea for Over The River was planted as Jeanne-Claude and Christo watched the fabric of their Pont Neuf bridge-wrapping project being hoisted into place above the River Seine in Paris together. Although Jeanne-Claude has passed away, before she departed, she set into motion the realization of this work. Christo is continuing their artistic legacy and love story by continuing the plans for Over The River, with the spirit of Jeanne-Claude at his side.
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The Umbrellas, Japan-USA, 1984-91 photos: Wolfgang Volz
Surrounded Islands, Biscayne Bay, Greater Miami, Florida, 1980-83 photo: Wolfgang Volz
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Mermaiden
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Photographer Zena Holloway Story by Chelsie Roberts Fashion Thea Lewis Hair Michael Jones using Bumble and Bumble Make up, Phyllis Cohen at DWM using Shu Uemura Model Lydia Beesley at Storm. Photographers Assistants Angela Neil and Greg Hardes Diving Assistant Phil Richards. Fashion Assistant Ashley-Gianna Hallett.
Photographer Zena Holloway, born in Bahrain, now working and living in London is rumored to be able to hold her breath for three full minutes; which is a good thing, because her art is not only awe inspiring—it is literally breathtaking. Why literally? because, her scenes are shot exclusively underwater. In fact, whether it is in an ocean, a swimming pool or a water tank, Zena doesn’t photograph outside of the water at all. When she expresses how she felt the first time she went into the sea, she says “I loved the sense of being deep underwater, on borrowed time, experiencing a new world and having access to an environment that was so divine.” And her passion for the deep blue shows in her work. She has photographed images across all genres, ranging from the images for Charles Kingsley’s children’s book “Waterbabies” where she not only worked with children, but also animals to images for Nike and Olay campaigns. However she says, “I’m still waiting for the phone to ring for an underwater car commercial.”
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It all began when Zena was traveling the world as a scuba dive instructor. She was in Egypt, working as a guide when her mother purchased an underwater motor marine camera for her 18th birthday present. She says it, “looked far more like a children’s toy than a camera.”
She started to experiment with techniques that she learned in underwater photography books and through trial and error she taught herself. And, her first subject was not a mermaid, but a blue spotted ray, who Zena says, “Kindly sat for me for about twenty minutes as I fumbled with the settings.” When asked why she shoots underwater and how she came up with the idea, it’s a no brainer for her. “It was the water that came first rather than the photography and now that I’m a photographer it’s hard to extract the water… I like the magic that I find underwater which is very hard to achieve on land.”
Jade, white and black print chiffon dress with solid gold collar Just Cavalli Headpiece Basia Zarzycka 53
“Mermaiden” definitely captures this magic. Not only do the images capture the beauty and color of the water, but also this is paired with the intricacy and on-point aspect of the styling. “The inspiration from the shoot came from seeing the magnificent clothes hanging on the rail that Thea Lewis had gathered …The long flowing dresses, shells and long hair of the model all had a very mermaid feel…which was reflected in the style of the photography,” says Zena. Now, looking forward, admiring her art and drinking it all in, I wonder what will swim next in front of her lens? I am no longer wondering what is in Davy Jones’ Locker, but rather in Zena Holloway’s.
Cream Grecian style dress Amanda Wakeley Harness Sergio Rossi Head piece Basia Zarzycka 54
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Professional Golfer Luke Donald & His Hole-in-One Claret By Norman Mark
Apparently, there is a lot more going on with golf than whacking a tiny ball a couple of hundred yards into a small cup. For one thing, there’s a growing association of golf with wine. Many professional golfers have lent their names to wine labels, possibly figuring that amateur duffers might need a glass of wine after exploring the rough and missing par on most holes. Pro golfers with their own wine labels include Arnold Palmer, Greg Norman, Mike Weir and at least three South Africans-David Frost, Ernie Els and Gary Player. Now a top-ranked young British golfer, Luke Donald, is joining their ranks. His first attempt at wine creation, the Luke Donald 2005 Napa Valley Collection, a claret, is so good that it’s like beating Tiger Woods during your rookie professional tournament. This delicious wine offers a perfect, slightly musky aroma. Its amazing taste combines an initial smooth blend with a later, larger, more muscular smokiness. It’s a fine sipping wine and an even better wine with food.
Years passed, the conversations and the golf games continued. Meanwhile, Donald turned professional in 2001 and earned more than $1 million that first year. Fresh off his 2011 World Golf Championship, his lifetime earnings are now over $17 million. Then Bill Terlato took over most management duties from his father, the legendary Tony Terlato, who introduced Pinot Grigio to American consumers. The Terlato Wine Group’s income has been doubling every five years. In America, the company sells one in eight wines costing more than $14. Although it’s a family corporation and exact figures are not revealed, one estimate put annual sales at over $250,000,000 a year. Although Terlato makes wine with golfer Ernie Els, it was not searching for celebrity wine endorsements. Quality, rather than mere name value, is the company’s most important consideration.
“It was just something away from the golf course that I have an enjoyment in…” Donald prefers to call it a “claret” because that’s the British word for Bordeaux blends. Also, from a golfer’s point of view, the Claret Jug is awarded to the winner of the British Open, something Donald hopes to acquire. Perhaps a jug of his claret could lead to the Claret Jug. Luke Donald’s association with wine began with golf, specifically when he was attending Northwestern University on a golf scholarship. Bill Terlato, now president and CEO of Terlato Wines International, was taking golf lessons from Luke Donald’s coach. Luke and Bill became golf buddies: Luke helped Bill’s game; Bill conducted impromptu wine seminars for Luke.
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Terlato also wanted to create wines that would appeal to younger sippers. A recent survey indicated that the so-called millennial generation (age 21-30) buys the more expensive wines (over $16 a bottle) at a rate of two and a half times the national average. These are the people who grew up wanting $125 sneakers and now some have disposable income. Luke Donald’s high-end endorsements included Royal Bank of Scotland, Rolex and Polo Ralph Lauren. But he had no relationship with a wine company until he and his agent asked Bill Terlato for advice. Terlato told me, “We wanted Luke involved in its development. After two days of tasting, we came up with what finally reflected his personal style and taste.”
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“It’s gratifying to hear that you opened a bottle and enjoyed it.” Luke Donald said, “The tasting was an overwhelming experience. We were blending six different wines. It’s like playing chemistry with 100 glasses in front of you. I remember thinking this could take a while. Then we got it down to two possibilities and we broke for lunch. The wines tasted differently with the risotto and that determined the final choice.” In an interview with John Bush back in 2008, right after his wine was introduced, Donald was asked what it was about golf and wine that went together. Donald answered, “It was just something away from the golf course that I have an enjoyment in…It just seemed like a good thing for me to get involved with.” Donald popped a tendon in his left wrist, suffering a “subluxation of the Extensor Carpi Ulnaris (ECU) tendon.” This forced him to withdraw from the PGA tour and from the British Ryder Cup team, which he led to victories. The same New York doctor who cured the wrist problems of baseball player Jason Giambi and professional golfer Jim Furyk, successfully operated on Donald, who returned to golf after rehabilitation and is currently ranked #1 in the world. Donald told me, “It’s gratifying to hear that you opened a bottle and enjoyed it.” I did. The Luke Donald Collection, with only 1100 cases produced this year, is a fine $40 red wine available at www.worldsgreatestwines.com. Next year, Luke Donald wines will offer more claret and a Chardonnay, while he works on keeping his golf game in championship form.
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The
Awesome 8
A Golfing Adventure
By Martin Sayers
Golf is not a game that is usually associated with high adventure—it is supposed to be a sedate and relaxing pastime. Things are changing in the world of golf, however, and there is an incredible quest out there for anyone prepared to take it on. It is a journey that takes the intrepid golfer to eight of the most extreme golf courses in the world: the highest, the lowest, the hottest, the coldest, the most southerly, the most northerly, the hardest and the greatest.
This crazy task is the brainchild of two golfobsessed British friends, Robin Sieger and Neil Laughton, who decided over seven years ago that it was time to make their golf a bit more exciting. T h ey hit upon the idea of a competition that involved completing eight of the most diverse and extreme golf courses in the world within a year. All of the courses were recognized golf clubs with an established membership list, and with sponsorship from Callaway, Robin and Neil set out to play all eight of them within 12 months. They started in January and had completed the challenge by Christmas.
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According to Robin, it was one of the greatest experiences of his life: “It was an incredible trip,” he says. “Not only did we get to play some amazing golf courses but we met some fantastic people along the way. We were treated with incredible generosity and kindness at the clubs we visited; it showed the true spirit of golf.” Robin and Neil are now the founding members of the most exclusive golf society in the world, a society whose membership is only open to those who have completed all eight courses on the Awesome 8 list. The challenge no longer requires the intrepid golfer, as it did Robin and Neil, to drag a bag of clubs around the world on a series of economy class flights. The Awesome 8 has evolved into the ultimate golfing experience—a package that includes travel by executive jet, accommodation in luxury hotels and incredible excursions to places of interest. The trip takes place in two month-long stages, one in summer and one in winter, and the cost is around a cool $157,000. If you have the money and the time, you can take your place on the Awesome 8. You and around 25 fellow golfers will jet off in a luxury Boeing 757-200 and be whisked around the golfing world for two weeks.
Eight of the most diverse and extreme golf courses in the world.
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The Most Northerly
North Cape, Norway Jet out to the edge of the Arctic Circle, where a round at North Cape golf club awaits, the most northerly course in the world. After the golf, a take a cruise to the North Cape itself—the very tip of Europe, where it is possible to see the incredible spectacle of the Northern Lights.
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The Coldest
North Star, Alaska
From Norway, a hop across the Arctic to Alaska to play at North Star golf club. It is the coldest golf course in the world, so much so that it has to close for six months of the year. Thankfully, playing it in May means that snow is unlikely to be a problem. North Star may also be the only club that provides an animal checklist on the scorecard— hawks, owls and eagles are all common sights and even the elusive lynx has been spotted. A course rule states that: “When a raven or fox steals a ball, a replacement may be dropped without penalty at the scene of the crime.”
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The Highest
La Paz, Bolivia
After the climatic extremes of the Arctic, the head back southward to the city of La Paz in Bolivia. Not only is La Paz the highest capital city in the world, it is also home to the highest golf course, a club situated a heady 10,350-feet above sea level. Set against the majestic beauty of the Andes, this is one of the most scenic golf courses in the world. Golfers must be careful, however, because the altitude means that the average 4-iron shot will shoot past 200 yards. The activities associated with this location could include a visit to the world famous Lake Titicaca and a look around Tiwanako, ancient capital of the Incas.
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The Greatest
St. Andrews, Scotland
After Bolivia, head back to Europe to play the only one of the eight courses that needs no introduction: St. Andrews is possibly the greatest and certainly one of the oldest golf courses in the world. This magnificent links is a Mecca for any golfer, and its many features and subtleties make for an amazing eighteen holes. Teeing off on the Old Course in the footsteps of the greats, from Bobby Jones to Tiger Woods, makes for an unforgettable experience.
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The Lowest
Furnace Creek, California Whisked across the desert to play Furnace Creek in California, at 214 feet below sea level the world’s lowest elevation golf course. This unfeasibly lush course stands in glorious contrast to the desolate desert landscape of its Death Valley location. Not only is it low; it is also hard and has been featured in Golf Digest’s list of “America’s 50 Toughest Courses.”
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There is an incredible quest out there for anyone prepared to take it on.
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The Most Southerly
Ushuaia, Argentina
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Set out to play the most southerly golf course in the world at Ushuaia, Argentina. Sitting at the very tip of South America, Ushuaia claims to be the world’s most southerly city and isn’t much more than a super-charged drive away from Antarctica. The club itself is set in the Tierra del Fuego national park and provides a challenge. Strong winds from the polar region whip across the fairways, and the course is criss-crossed by a fast-flowing river.
The Toughest
Ko’olau, Hawaii
From Argentina, head across the Pacific to the paradise islands of Hawaii to take on what is widely regarded as the most difficult course in the world of golf. Carved out of a forest on the windward side of the 2000-foot Ko’olau Ridge mountain range, Ko’olau golf course is officially recognized as the hardest course in America by the USGA. The course is almost unfeasibly steep and wind speed can often reach 40 mph. These factors, combined with the sheer difficulty of the course, means that most rounds take over 5 hours to complete.
The Hottest
Alice Springs, Australia
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From Hawaii, continue westward to Australia and Alice Springs golf club. Given its location in the middle of the Australian desert, it is not surprising that Alice Springs is officially the hottest golf course in the world, with temperatures regularly topping 120 degrees Fahrenheit. But the welcome is as warm as the weather, and Awesome 8 founder Robin Sieger rates Alice Springs as one of the friendliest clubs he has ever visited. www.lxmagazine.com
E VERY ROLE X IS MADE FOR GRE ATNESS. THE MILGAUSS, INTRODUCED IN 1956 , WA S D E S IG NED TO MEE T THE D EM A ND S OF THE S CIENTIFI C COMMUNIT Y A ND I S C A PA B L E OF W ITH S TA ND IN G M AG NE TI C FIEL D S OF UP TO 1,000 GAUS S. AFTER RIGOROUS TESTING BY CERN ENGINEERS, I T E A R N E D I T S R E P U TAT I O N A S T H E P E R F E C T M A G N E T I C S H I E L D . T O D AY ’ S M I L G A U S S F E AT U R E S A PA R A C H R O M H A I R S P R I N G T H AT PROVIDES ADDITIONAL PROTECTION FROM THE EFFECTS OF MAGNETISM.
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