Š d. yurman 2012
Sterling Heights - Rochester
速
Moonlight Ice Collection
from the publisher
Welcome. It is with great honor and pleasure to once again bring you LX Detroit, an artistic, one-of-a-kind, coffee table magazine. This is such an exciting issue, as we feature exquisite jewelry, artistic photography and stories that captivate you, educate you and also pull at your heart strings. In this issue, we are excited to keep you up to date on what has been happening at Lucido Fine Jewelry. Our editorials in this issue feature, “Capturing the Moment of Truth” A story about a paparazzi style photographer that “captures” marriage proposals. Sharon Naylor shares a story, “I Still Choose You,” about renewing your wedding vows. Leading UK fashion photographer, Zena Holloway, graces this issue with a beauty story entitled “Mermaiden.” Holloway sets her work apart from other fashion photographers by shooting exclusively underwater. “My Mother’s Wedding Dress” is a beautifully written story about memory, reflection, loss and looking to the future. Also in this issue, “pARTners a love story” about artists Christo and Jeanne Claude and how their love and collaboration literally changed the “landscape” of art. Be sure to visit us at Lucido Fine Jewelry. We love hearing your stories and feel honored to be a part of your special moments. We promise to make your experience at Lucido Fine Jewelry memorable and rewarding. We will continue to strive for cutting edge fashion in our jewelry, while maintaining the high quality you have been accustomed to receiving. Above all, you are very important to us and we treasure your friendship and loyalty. Enjoy this issue of LX Detroit, with our compliments. Our best to you, Vince and Joe Lucido
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A. Jaffe Ad
Features
inside
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Lifestyle 11 Capturing the Moment of Truth 19 I Still Choose You Wealth 23 Longevity and the
Value of College
Photography 28 Honey Moon and Stars 50 Mermaiden: Photos by
Zena Holloway
Arts & Culture 26 My Mother’s Wedding Dress 46 pARTners Spotlight:
Christo and Jeanne Claude
Capturing the Moment of Truth Women’s Runway Report: Bridal
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Fashion 39 Runway Report: Bridal 43 Runway Report: Men’s Jewelry 15 Gift Guide 57 Time to Watch Your Professional Etiquette 61 The Belle Etoile Story
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pARTners Spotlight: Christo and Jeanne Claude
on the cover
Publishers VINCE AND JOE LUCIDO Editor JON ROBERTS Public Relations JOHN SUNDERLAND Art Director CHELSIE ROBERTS Featured on the cover is the talented photographer Monica Eng. She says, “Growing up in Singapore was a gateway for me to experience the multitudes of cultures and utilize those who surround me to layer my photography. I do not claim to inspire those who stand before my lens, for they are my greatest inspiration. I see her biting her lips and I see someone who has the years ahead running amok in her head. I see him shy away from her gaze and I see the beginning of a new life that is as delicate as it is dedicated.”
Graphic Designer ANGIE HALTER Graphic Designer MIGUEL SALGADO
LX: a coffeetable magazine LX® Magazine is published by Luxury Avenue, LLC, 500 N. Michigan Avenue, Ste. 300, Chicago, Illinois 60611. LX® accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts and or photographs and assumes no liability for products or services advertised herein. LX® reserves the right to edit, rewrite, refuse or reuse material, is not responsible for errors or omissions and may feature the same content on lxmagazine.com, as well as other mediums for any and all purposes. Copyright © 2012 Luxury Avenue, LLC. All rights reserved. The entire contents of LX® are protected by copyright© and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of the publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part or storage in any data retrieval system or any transmission by any means therefrom without prior written permission is prohibited. LX® and LX® Magazine are trademarks™ of Luxury Avenue, LLC. 8
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CABER ATLAS DIAMOND
Capturing the
Moment of Truth By John Sunderland • Photos by James Ambler
The moment of truth, she’s thought about this moment since she was a little girl. He probably has only thought about it after he decided she was the one. As a jeweler, I always ask the young men (some not so young anymore) how they plan to pop the question. Most respond “I don’t know”. We like getting them thinking about it, because its such an important moment in both of their lives AND it centers around the beautiful diamond we just helped the groom select. The better it goes, the better entire wedding process goes. So when James Ambler explained his “Paparazzi Proposals” we immediately loved it. I have heard of no business or idea that highlights this important moment as well as Pap The Question. I sat down with James a few weeks ago to discuss his photos and his passion for capturing these memories. 11
About James Ambler, owner of Pap The Question “I started taking photographs when I was 15 because I loved documenting people going about their everyday jobs. Soon I was traveling extensively around Thailand and Nepal and found my love of photographing faces! From here, I studied in the UK obtaining a BA Honors Degree in Photography. I started working for local newspapers and over the course of four years, worked my way up to the big national papers in the UK, covering anything from the London Bombings to features for the papers. It was during this time I started assignments for celebrity stakeouts and the Paparazzi in me was born! I moved to New York and began working for the biggest celebrity agency, Splash News. I had a wild three years chasing celebrities all over the world. I had a lift from Angelina Jolie, was one of the official photographers of Anna Nicole Smith’s funeral and spent a long time in Panama, Bermuda and the Bahamas sneakily snapping celebs. We launched Pap The Question just under a year ago and our Paparazzi Proposals are becoming a huge success all over America.”
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She’s thought about this moment since she was a little girl. JS: Your proposal photographs are beautiful! They really capture the emotion involved. What type of photography is your background? JA: Paparazzi! I have not hung up the paparazzi job, but I put it on hold for the moment. I have been in the states for nearly six years as a paparazzi photographer and in the United Kingdom for four years doing paparazzi work. About three years ago when I proposed to my now wife, that is where the whole concept came about. I am from England and my wife is Australian and we got engaged in Central Park in New York. Afterwards we spent every day for the next few weeks phoning friends across the world telling them about our exciting news and being a photographer the first thing everyone asked is if we have pictures, and embarrassingly we did not and that was one thing I didn’t really think about. That is where the concept of the business came about because I would have loved to have pictures of the buildup and of our picnic in central park; it was a beautiful day. It would have been lovely to have had it recorded, but we didn’t want a photographer standing two feet away when it was a very intimate moment between me and my now wife. JS: Do you have a favorite proposal story? JA: Some guys like to keep the photographs as a surprise, so they can surprise her the next day. But we had one guy who didn’t tell her for the whole engagement and on the wed-ding day actually revealed the pictures to her! JS: That is as romantic as it gets! From the jewelers stand point, the woman is more likely to love the ring if it’s presented in an exciting, well thought out way and I think your process gets the men thinking about it and taking it as seriously as it should be taken in the first place. JA: Exactly. And so now we have really tailored this service to being more about helping guys plan their proposal, we can be the independent party that really helps out with any kind of logistics whether it’s flowers to be delivered or certain things that need setting up. You don’t want to rely on friends
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and family because you obviously don’t want them involved because it is so close to your fiancé to be. So this service now that we are offering is this whole proposal planning, photography, video ideas, consultation. The idea is to really help guys, if they want to come up with something wild and elaborate, whether it is flash mobs or graffiti (we have done graffiti murals) we can help cater to that, but the other idea is that we really just want to let guys know that the romantic gesture of getting down on one knee should speak a thousand words. It is such an iconic gesture getting down on one knee and holding up this beautiful sparkling ring and that in itself can be very romantic and we would love the opportunity to be there to document it. JS: And as far as planning for the proposal and locations is that sort of up to the groom? Or is that something you guys handle? JA: Well it all depends; we never want to change a guy’s proposal It is his idea, it is his unique angle and we want to make sure that it is accessible for us to photograph. What we always try and do, which is why the consultation is key to every engagement, is spend a lot of time talking with the groom and finding out what it is about the proposal that is special and close to him and his fiancé to be. From that we can offer suggestions and ideas, whether it is family orientated or having the family waiting in a nearby bar for a glass of champagne and surprise the newly engaged couple. It is the little things that we offer for every engagement. JS: What are some of your favorite proposal spots? JA: I mean anywhere and everywhere is great. The parks are really popular especially with summer coming up. We can do things like having your clients set up with a bottle of champagne on ice on a blanket in the park or out on a shoreline. JS: What kind of packages do you offer? JA: The starting packages consists of a full consultation, so we can sit down with the guy and talk about how exactly he
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would like to propose, where he would like to propose, an ideas and any logistics that may need extra organizing. We would then like to do a run through at the actual location so the guy can get an idea of where he’s going to be and where we will be with the cameras. It is important that he is positioned in the right place so that when we capture the moment we are getting her face and her reaction. There are also a few little tips we give them like when you walk away afterwards you always make sure you hold her right hand so when you walk away she will be looking at that rock on her left finger. The client then will receive a CD with all of the pictures and everything will be put up online so they can share their memories. Our next package includes the rent-a-paparazzi section along with the paparazzi proposals. Say the couple were going to go out on the lake for a cruise or a glass of wine and wanted to make more of a day with it, we can follow them around sneakily throughout the day capturing their many hours to really create a memorable experience followed by the proposal. The largest package we offer includes full professional videography. We can mic up the guy if need be, have hidden cameras that we can put into pens that the guys can carry. We really try and create this video and audio experience so that they can relive it in years to come. For the guys every package is flexible and adjustable to fit their needs, no two engagements are ever the same, so if it is something they would like to change we can adapt and make any package to their needs. JS: What kind of lead time does the planning take? JA: Well, we ask for a minimum of thirty-six hours. As you know most guys are pretty useless when it comes to preparations. So we do get a lot of guys coming to us saying they are proposing tomorrow and asking if we can do it. And we can, we have a great team and a very flexible team, but obviously the longer we have the more preparation we do, the better the pictures, and better the proposal. JS: I loved the idea. I believe this is a one-of-kind service. JA: Well thank you, it’s certainly a novel idea I don’t think there are many people out there that are offering the service that we are offering. For more information and to capture your proposal visit www. PapTheQuestion.com. 14
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Gift
Guide
TAG HEUER
Carrera Automatic Chronograph Day Date Watch $4,400 Link Automatic Chronograph $3,800
Mens Gift Guide BREITLING
Superocean Chronograph $5,936 Chronomat 44, White Face $8,960
DAVID YURMAN
Textured Empire Chain Bracelet $925 Maritime Cufflinks $495, Maritime Woven Band Ring $300
15 Prices subject to change. Typographical errors are subject to correction.
DAVID YURMAN Albion速 Enhancer in Sterling Silver with Diamonds & Hampton Blue Topaz $2,550 Shown on Large Oval Link Necklace $680
HEARTS ON FIRE
Fulfillment Pendant starting at $1,490
HEARTS ON FIRE
Beloved Three Stone Ring starting at $9,900
DAVID YURMAN
Split-Shank Albion速 Ring with Hampton Blue Topaz & Diamonds $2,200 Sculpted Cable Wide Ring $1,650 Albion速 Earrings with Hampton Blue Topaz & Diamonds $1,750
MICHELE 16
Serein Diamond Collection with Jade Alligator Strap $1,745 Serein Diamond Collection with SS Bracelet $1,845
TACORI
Crescent Ring starting at $3,950 Simply Tacori Ring starting at $3,480
TACORI
Island Rains Bracelets from $350 Island Rains Earrings $425 Island Rains Necklace $1,720 Island Rains Ring $330
BELLE ÉTOILE
Indulgence Necklace $525
BELLE ÉTOILE
BELLE ÉTOILE
Indulgence Rings $215
Indulgence Earrings $250
BELLE ÉTOILE
Indulgence Bracelet $415
I Still Cho o se yo u.
} or Writte n by Sharon Nayl os Images by MC Studi
Recapture the magic of your wedding day and tell your beloved “I still choose you” with a romantic wedding vow renewal celebration. Standing before one another, whether in a stylish designer gown and suit, or in bathing suits on a tropical beach, and speaking from the heart—telling your mate just how much more in love you are, how much you appreciate every moment, every gesture, every morning kiss and kindness—adds a depth to your marriage.
More wedding couples are choosing to renew their vows their way, whether in a grand wedding re-do at the country club with 150 guests and a masterpiece of a wedding cake, in their own backyard with their closest family and friends, or just the two of them at the ocean’s edge or in the church, synagogue or garden where they originally said their vows. They’re re-living the excitement of the wedding-planning (perhaps more enjoyably this time, without the input of ‘helpful’ parents,) touring ceremony sites together, tasting delectable cake sample bites, designing lovely bouquets and florals, selecting elegant invitations and of course, choosing their wedding vow renewal dresses and suits. A big trend now is to incorporate some element of the original wedding day into this celebration. Cher Floyd, who with her husband John has renewed their vows several times over the past twenty years, says of one celebration, “I used my original wedding veil, and had our original florist send similar flowers for us.” No matter the grandiosity of their plans, or the intimacy of a small affair, vow renewal couples experience that heart-flutter of excitement as they write new vows reflecting the bright points of the life they’ve lived together. They might repeat the same vows they spoke years ago, add new thoughts to that vow script, add their signature style and sense of
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“Most wedding couples say they haven’t felt as connected to one another in years as they do on this day.” humor this time around, and speak so sentimentally that tears come to their eyes. This is a moment dedicated to expressing appreciation and admiration for everything their partner does to enrich their life together, and to enrich their children. Most wedding couples say they haven’t felt as connected to one another in years as they do on this day. As an added bonus, wedding vow renewal couples say they love setting an inspiring example for their children and grandchildren, showing them that this is what a solid, loving and supportive marriage looks like, not the turbulent relationships they see on television reality shows and in celebrity gossip magazines.
Why Renew Now? It doesn’t have to be a 5th, 10th, or 25th milestone anniversary for you to renew your vows. Some couples do so on their very first anniversary, their 7th, their 12th—whenever the time feels right. A couple may wish to re-cement their bond after an extremely challenging year, such as one partner’s illness or job search struggles, or a military deployment. Or, they might re-new their vows in a joyful year, such as after their first child is born, and again when each additional child arrives. Some couples return to their original destination wedding resort each time, bringing their children with them to participate in their vow renewal celebration. It’s also become a trend to surprise a spouse with the “wedding re-do” she’s always wanted. If parents controlled the wedding plans, or if finances didn’t allow for that masterpiece wedding cake, the garden wedding, the sea of roses, if it rained on her dream garden wedding, she now gets the surprise of a lifetime: “Will you plan our wedding vow renewal celebration with me?” Tears will certainly flow with that romantic offer. She gets the do-over she’s always wanted, made all the sweeter by the fact that her partner suggested it.
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“Surprise ring upgrades are rising in popularity.”
The Wedding Ring Gets a Do-Over As Well
replaced by a new ring. She’s lived for years with, and cherished, the wedding ring placed on her finger at her wedding, and she would be disheartened to ‘trade it in’ for a newer model. A solution: take the stones from the original band and include them in the new band’s design, perhaps as stones embedded in the anniversary band. Or, the stones from the original band can be re-set as a new diamond pendant she can wear every day now and forever.
Open Editorial
, When Dr. Chris Kammer
planned a surprise vow renewal for his wife Jean Marie on their twentieth wedding anniversary, he also added a dazzling gift: “I had her wedding ring upgraded to a new platinum setting, and I also surprised her with a new anniversary band with twenty diamonds around the circle to wear with it.” Dr. Kammer’s present stunned not only his bride, but all of their family and friends in attendance.
Renewing your vows
Surprise ring upgrades are rising in popularity, and many husbands are giving an added thrill: they’re bringing their wives to the jewelry store to let them pick out their new, upgraded style elements. The shopping experience in itself adds wow factor to the gift, with the wife treated as a VIP by the jewelry shop staff. Some jewelry experts say they bring out a bottle of sparkling cider or Prosecco for these special couples, just as they do for their about-to-be-engaged couples shopping for the engagement ring. “Love should be celebrated,” says one jewelry store manager. “And we like to make their moment extra-special.” Dr. Kammer represents the high-end ring upgrade client who shops for finer metals, and a diamond-encircled anniversary band, perhaps an upgrade to larger wedding band stones with greater fire. Which brings up an important issue: the wife might not wish to have her wedding band 22
Great solutions if the original ring will remain untouched: get her a dazzling right-hand diamond or gemstone ring, or simply surround the original band with two new, stackable diamond-encircled bands. Perhaps each band can symbolize five years of marital bliss, perfect for a tenth wedding anniversary, or symbolizing each of the couple’s two children. When you add an element from the marriage to the ring upgrade, even a subtler design becomes priceless.
Other choices include adding gemstones to the new design, embedding larger diamonds, and adding personalized engravings (sometimes as a surprise.) And don’t forget that the husband’s wedding band can be upgraded as well; he may prefer a different style (such as hammered metals or diamond chips) than he chose in his younger years. Many couples with children love to include their kids in their vow renewals, expressing their love and admiration for the wonderful people their sons and daughters have grown to be, and promising to always support their dreams. As part of the renewal, it’s lovely to present diamond pendants, gemstone earrings or other precious gifts to the girls, as well as meaningful gifts to the boys. Grandchildren may be included in this gift presentation as well, for all to share in the joy of the day.
HOW MUCH MORE WILL YOUR DEGREE BE WORTH? By Lyndon Conrad Bell
In 1934, when Norman Rockwell painted this image, the cost of an undergraduate degree was $400.00 per year.
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With college tuitions steadily rising, an economy rebounding from the great recession, and the life expectancy of the average American steadily increasing, a question on the minds of many people—simply put—is it worth it? Conventional wisdom says absolutely, unequivocally, without a doubt, yes it is. After all, hundreds, if not thousands of studies have found the lifetime earnings potential of a college graduate is almost always significantly greater than that of an individual with no secondary education. Add to that, the fact that today’s college preps will potentially be in the workforce twenty more years than today’s retirees which only increases the value of a college education. In 2009, the U.S. Census Bureau’s American Community Survey started asking people with a bachelor’s degree to list their undergraduate major course of study. This enabled, for the first time, the ability to place a specific value on a particular major. For workers whose highest degree was a bachelor’s, incomes ranged from $29,000 for counseling-psychology majors to $120,000 for petroleum-engineering majors. However, the study also showed the median income for people with just a high-school diploma was about $32,000 vs. $55,000 for those whose highest degree was a bachelor’s. In other words, an individual with no college at all could potentially make more money over the course of their lifetime than an individual with a college degree—in some fields. There is another set of aspects of this discussion to consider though; the social attributes demonstrated by academically-oriented people, the value of the lifelong learning traits instilled in college graduates, and the broader perspectives afforded those with a college degree. A 2007 study by the College Board, New York found college graduates, regardless of major, are involved in the community and engage in charitable giving at more than twice the rate of high-school only graduates. Further, they live healthier lives and are more likely to experience increased longevity. 24
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“college graduates, regardless of major, are involved in the community and engage in charitable giving at more than twice the rate of high-school only graduates.” painting: Judy Palermo www.judypalermo.com
When this is considered along with the fact people are living longer in general, with all this added longevity will come significant earning potential. Further, as we move forward as a society, the best jobs will either be more technologically dependent or technologically oriented.
With this in mind, choosing a major should be about finding something you love to do. One should try to find something they love that will either (a) still be in demand many years from now, or (b) give them a foundation from which they can continue to evolve their skills and expertise as times change.
Maura Kastberg, executive director of Student Services at RSC: Your College Prep Expert in Schenectady, New York says; “In the high-tech world we live in, which is steadily becoming increasingly so, technology has replaced many jobs that are repetitive in nature. Plus, businesses are always looking for ways to do things more efficiently, more cheaply, and more safely. Companies are also looking to make their products and services easier for their customers to use. More and more, technology is the answer to those concerns.”
Which brings us to another hidden asset of a college education—the flexibility it gives people to evolve with the progression of their careers. Says Kastberg; “Most people today will have three to five different jobs over the course of their working lives. College lets people change their career focus more easily and is a foundation to build upon as technology advances. Taking additional courses to keep up with changes is much easier than having to start from scratch in a quickly changing world.”
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My MOTHER’S
Wedding
dress By Elizabeth Fergus-Jean Photos submitted
I found my mother’s wedding dress, sealed in a plastic bag, stuffed into an old tattered leather suitcase just a few months after my mother had passed away. At first I had no idea what it was, for it appeared to be a crumpled mass of old tulle and lace. Clearly it had not been thoughtfully stored away for safekeeping; it had been jammed into a bag and sealed away where it did not hold the power to stir up old memories. Yet when I unzipped the bag, wisps of the past seeped into the air. This wrinkled, slightly torn dress had once been beautiful; I knew this because I also found my mother’s wedding photos. She was stunning with her lace gloves and soft hopeful gaze. I wish my mother was with me so I could ask about her dress, her wedding and honeymoon; all stories I never heard yet longed to hear. I slipped on her dress, careful to not tear the aging lace. It fit; my body now as my mother’s, and I felt her presence around me. At first I felt a deep longing, and then curiosity washed over me as I began to slowly move this way and that, feeling the scratchy material brush against my skin. I lifted her veil to inhale her memory, dreaming of her, when she wore the dress on her wedding day. 26
I peered through the veil, seeking answers of her story, and finding those of my own imaginings-My daughter is getting married next year. Unlike my mother, I carefully sealed my wedding dress in the hopes that one day my daughter would want to wear it. But, she is indeed her mother’s daughter, for she too,
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showed no interest in wearing her mother’s wedding dress. And that is fine with me. A mother’s gift is sharing her love and supporting the choices her daughter makes. Dresses and fashion may come and go, but the memories that cling to their fabric transport us to rekindle our love of our past and our hope for the future.,
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Photographed By Monica Eng Interview By Chelsie Roberts
Photography & Styling Monica Eng www.vividshots.com Third Eye Brian Fisher make-up & Hair Jyue Huey from The Make-Up Room Wedding gowns from The Wedding Present model Daria Popova
C. When you are photographing a subject, what kind of transformation happens in you? How do you become part of the artistry that you are creating, and how is it different or the same as who you are in regular day to day life?
M. I am curious by nature. Whenever I meet someone interesting, get caught in a unique situation or watch a really nice movie. I often wonder how it feels to be in someone else’s situation—imagining the multitudes of emotions surrounding that situation. I later translate them into little stories through my lens.
C. Other than the art of photography, what other art forms do you incorporate into your work, or what meaning do you derive from other art forms?
M. I love music and dance. Whenever possible I try to incorporate them into my works. Almost all the time, I will have a certain song
in my mind that I would almost play on a loop during my shoot to get everyone into that mood during the shoot; sometimes we all get so sick of that song after the shoot, we never want to hear it again. I have done shoots based on the ballet, Giselle and the Moonlight Sonata, all with my own interpretation from a different view point. Next, I would love to do a shoot based on Tango; it’s the one dance I find absolutely enchanting. I would love to be able to master Tango one day and translate it into my photography.
“colour and light is basically like a life partner to a visual artist. You have to understand every intricate aspect to make the relationship work” 30
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C. Describe how you feel about color and light? M. Colours and light are inseparable. To see a full spectrum of colours you’ll need an adequate amount of light. To set the right
mood and message in an image, you’ll need to understand them well. Metaphorically speaking, colour and light is basically like a life partner to a visual artist. You have to understand every intricate aspect to make the relationship work as you would understand your life partner—what makes them tick, what makes them happy or sad.
C. How do you feel about love, life and one’s mark that they make on the world through imagination and imagery?
M. I think life is short and we should love and live to the fullest; always fight for your dreams and do what you love most. You don’t need a lot to live fully because the simplest things are the most wonderful. I think imagination and fantasy are the necessities of life; it’s a way of looking at life through the eccentric side and laughing at life’s realities.
RetaileR of the YeaR 42825 Schoenherr, Sterling Heights, MI | 586.997.0011 312 S. Main Street, Rochester, MI | 248.402.0300 lucidojewelry.com
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
The Long and Short of It
Bridal
Spring 2012
Oscar de la Renta’s Garden Tea Party By Simone Goller
There was something enchanting in the air at the Oscar de la Renta showroom where he presented his Spring 2012 bridal collection on Monday, April 11, in New York. Always one to put on a show and create something awe-inspiring, de la Renta this season set the scene to something you would expect little girls to conjure up if they let their young and vivid imaginations run free. Always refined of course, these little women could be found hosting a tea party in the garden out back
Womens Runway Report Bridal
Designer Spotlight
surrounded by freesia and lavender scents as they sip tea, or at least gesture as such, in little white gloves and paint pictures for each other envisioning their fantastical wedding dreams.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
With the youthfulness to the collection came an understated elegance that only de la Renta could pervade. Long silhouettes with bodacious skirts composed of ruffles and organza florets gave the illusion of a woman running through a patch of petals as they joined together to adorn her body. Rabbit hair on a white feathered bolero and scarf meshed perfectly with the springtime garden fauna. Offering something novel to the bridal repertoire, de la Renta utilized the neckline in square shapes and more angular cuts. All 37 designs were white except for a couple of degrade silk organza gowns in pink and a tea length version in pale blue.
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sJLM COUTURE Womens Runway Report Bridal
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Pnina Tornai
Womens Runway Report Bridal
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Alexander McQueen Mens Runway Report
The Long and Short of It Men’s
Spring 2012
McQueen’s Brit Rock Hall of Fame By Godfrey Deeny
Though rock ‘n’ roll is an American term, when it comes to its iconography, it’s our British rock star cousins who occupy far more of the music’s visual history. The accepted wisdom is that the Cleveland, Ohio DJ Alan Freed first popularized “rock and roll,” on radio and that the first true record in the genre is “Rocket 88” by Jackie Brenston and his Delta Cats, an alias for Ike Turner. However, the first true rock gods, when it comes to fashion, are legends like the Beatles, The Rolling Stones and The Who. And that remained true through many decades, when UK stars as diverse as Joe Strummer, Bryan Ferry or Pete Doherty set
Alexander McQueen
Designer Spotlight
the sartorial agenda more than their colleagues across The Pond. Which brings us to the latest menswear collection from the house of Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton put it, “a history of a baby band, from their early shows, to more self-indulgence and on to huge mega stadium concerts.” Burton’s spring 2012 collection for McQueen was a tour de force of tailoring, a witty understanding of sartorial rock imagery and a counter blast to the self-indulgent whimsy. The true cool of these clothes was the way she could riff through all sorts of rock legend moments-spiffy mod hounds’ tooth suits, Chelsea spiv rocker, eighties synthesizer pop star, poetic new romantic and aristocratic country house amateur rocker to legend entering the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, in, but of course, Cleveland, Ohio. Whether flame printed jackets, Edwardian tails, revolutionary dandy striped pants or sleek gangster singer double-breasted jackets it was all pretty brilliant. So, Brit rockers, raise your hands in applause for Burton, few designers will ever dress 44
you quite so well.
Armani
Gucci
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pARTners The Love Story
Christo & Jeanne Claude By Lyndon Conrad Bell
Imagine having the following conversation with your spouse/significant other; “Hon, I have a great idea. I want to take 150 oil barrels and use them to block off a street downtown. When the police show up to clear them, I’m going to need you to hold them off so the press can document it while I attend a gallery opening in another part of the city. Do you think you can do that my love?” How well do you think that a question like that would be received? In the case of Christo Vladimirov Javacheff and JeanneClaude Marie Denat, her answer was, “Yes darling, of course I can.” That positive response enabled a seminal event in the life of their career, which ultimately attracted the pair enough notoriety to sustain a forty-eight year creative collaboration—which continues to birth some of the most monumental works of art the world has ever known. Seemingly pre-destined to meet and fall in love, Jeanne-Claude and Christo were both born on June 13, 1935—Jeanne-Claude in Morocco, Christo in Bulgaria. The two met in Paris in 1958, when, as a young artist, Christo was commissioned to produce a portrait of Jeanne-Claude’s mother, Précilda de Guillebon. Jeanne-Claude once said her life began the day Christo walked into her family’s home. And while Cyril, their son, born May 11, 1960, was the couple’s first collaboration, the pair went on to literally redefine the work of art. For many years, the fruitions of their efforts were credited only to Christo. And while it is true the overtly creative aspects of their projects sprang from Christo’s imagination, the real work of transforming the work from the firing of synapses in Christo’s brain to a tangible artifact capable of triggering responses in the brains of others fell largely to Jeanne-Claude. In 1994, the couple announced they would henceforth be known as a single entity, and further, all projects they’d created since 1964 would be retroactively labeled as the work of Christo and Jeanne-Claude. The announcement drew considerable criticism, as her role was perceived by many in the art world to be “merely” administrative. In response, Christo said, “The drawings are but the scheme for the project, after that, we do everything together. Everybody knows we’ve worked together for over 30 years. There’s no point in arguing about who does what. The work is all that matters.” In fact, the couple never flew together so in the event of a tragedy, their work could continue unabated.
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The phrase “Work Of Art” typically applies only to a finished piece. In the case of Jeanne-Claude and Christo’s installations, the “work of art” involves so much more than just the piece itself. A good example of this is the ground work laid for their seminal installation, Running Fence. Flowing gracefully across 24.5 miles of northern California’s Sonoma and Marin counties, Running Fence began near the town of Petaluma, before crossing U.S. Highway 101 as well as 14 roads in both counties. At its terminus, the fence slipped fluidly into the Pacific Ocean at Bodega Bay. The project required a 400-page Environmental Impact Study, hearings with both county’s commissioners, numerous city council meetings and individual permission from each of the 59 ranchers whose lands the fence would cross. The “work” of this art piece began in 1972. The actual physical installation process began four years later in April of 1976. Running Fence was completed on September 10, 1976 and stood for just under two weeks, before being removed on September 21, 1976. The scale of the work is almost unimaginable. The eighteen foot high fence was composed of 2,050 panels of white nylon fabric measuring eighteen feet wide by sixty-eight feet long. The fabric was suspended between a pair of steel cables by means of 350,000 hooks. The cables were in turn supported by 2,050 steel poles placed sixty-two feet apart and anchored three feet into the ground. Steel guy wires braced each of the steel poles. And while Running Fence is rightfully considered one of history’s most extraordinary works of art, getting the clearance to build it in the first place was the “work” of art too. Her husband’s most ardent supporter, Jeanne-Claude’s machinations behind the scenes—doing the “work” of art— are what ultimately saw their projects realized. An oft-overlooked aspect of Jeanne-Claude and Christo’s work is the fact it has always been entirely self-funded. All the related expenses, including the engineers, lawyers, installers, environmental analysis, traffic control, trash removal and sanitation at the sites have been borne by the artists without viewing fees, sponsorships or outside investments of any kind. Jeanne-Claude once quoted the cost of producing Running Fence at some 21 million (1970’s) dollars. That would be well over 60 million dollars today. The funding of their projects comes from the sales of smaller pieces of art created by the couple, as well as selling the preliminary sketches, renderings and models of the ultimate work. Eschewing the traditional artist/agency relationship, Jeanne-Claude fulfilled that role as well. Arguably, Christo would not be Christo without the efforts of Jeanne-Claude. And while she had no significant interest in art before Christo, she often said she would do whatever it took to ensure their success. If Christo had been a plumber, Jeanne-Claude is quoted as having said she’d have learned everything she needed to know about becoming a successful plumber. www.lxmagazine.com
Images top to bottom: Wrapped Reichstag, Berlin, Germany, 1971-95 Running Fence, Sonoma and Marin Counties, California, 1972-76
photos: Wolfgang Volz
Their next work, called Over The River is a plan to build a semi-translucent canopy some 5.9 miles long over a stretch of the Arkansas River between the towns of Salida and Ca単on City in south-central Colorado. The idea for Over The River was planted as Jeanne-Claude and Christo watched the fabric of their Pont Neuf bridge-wrapping project being hoisted into place above the River Seine in Paris together. Although Jeanne-Claude has passed away, before she departed, she set into motion the realization of this work. Christo is continuing their artistic legacy and love story by continuing the plans for Over The River, with the spirit of Jeanne-Claude at his side.
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The Umbrellas, Japan-USA, 1984-91 photos: Wolfgang Volz
Surrounded Islands, Biscayne Bay, Greater Miami, Florida, 1980-83 photo: Wolfgang Volz
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Photographer Zena Holloway Story by Chelsie Roberts Fashion Thea Lewis Hair Michael Jones using Bumble and Bumble Make up, Phyllis Cohen at DWM using Shu Uemura Model Lydia Beesley at Storm. Photographers Assistants Angela Neil and Greg Hardes Diving Assistant Phil Richards. Fashion Assistant Ashley-Gianna Hallett.
Photographer Zena Holloway, born in Bahrain, now working and living in London is rumored to be able to hold her breath for three full minutes; which is a good thing, because her art is not only awe inspiring—it is literally breathtaking. Why literally? because, her scenes are shot exclusively underwater. In fact, whether it is in an ocean, a swimming pool or a water tank, Zena doesn’t photograph outside of the water at all. When she expresses how she felt the first time she went into the sea, she says “I loved the sense of being deep underwater, on borrowed time, experiencing a new world and having access to an environment that was so divine.” And her passion for the deep blue shows in her work. She has photographed images across all genres, ranging from the images for Charles Kingsley’s children’s book “Waterbabies” where she not only worked with children, but also animals to images for Nike and Olay campaigns. However she says, “I’m still waiting for the phone to ring for an underwater car commercial.”
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It all began when Zena was traveling the world as a scuba dive instructor. She was in Egypt, working as a guide when her mother purchased an underwater motor marine camera for her 18th birthday present. She says it, “looked far more like a children’s toy than a camera.”
She started to experiment with techniques that she learned in underwater photography books and through trial and error she taught herself. And, her first subject was not a mermaid, but a blue spotted ray, who Zena says, “Kindly sat for me for about twenty minutes as I fumbled with the settings.” When asked why she shoots underwater and how she came up with the idea, it’s a no brainer for her. “It was the water that came first rather than the photography and now that I’m a photographer it’s hard to extract the water… I like the magic that I find underwater which is very hard to achieve on land.”
Jade, white and black print chiffon dress with solid gold collar Just Cavalli Headpiece Basia Zarzycka 53
“Mermaiden” definitely captures this magic. Not only do the images capture the beauty and color of the water, but also this is paired with the intricacy and on-point aspect of the styling. “The inspiration from the shoot came from seeing the magnificent clothes hanging on the rail that Thea Lewis had gathered …The long flowing dresses, shells and long hair of the model all had a very mermaid feel…which was reflected in the style of the photography.” Says Zena. Now, looking forward, admiring her art and drinking it all in, I wonder what will swim next in front of her lens? I am no longer wondering what is in Davy Jones’ Locker, but rather in Zena Holloway’s.
Cream Grecian style dress Amanda Wakeley Harness Sergio Rossi Head piece Basia Zarzycka 54
Teal chiffon and embroidered dress Alberta Ferretti Headpiece Culietta
Time toWatch Your Professional Etiquette By Kyle Gough
Late Friday afternoon you’re in one last meeting with a potential new client before heading off to enjoy the Red Wings game with your family and some friends. Anxiously anticipating the start of the weekend, you’re wondering about the time. There’s only one way to find out—while maintaining your professionalism—check your wristwatch. Sure, your smart phone has a clock, but checking it has drawbacks bound to annoy your prospect because smart phones tend to be, well, too “smart”. Referring to it for the time, you’ll also notice you have a text, or an e-mail, or a huge sale is going on at the local grocery store, or you’ve been outbid on your eBay auction. Now your mind is wandering. You’re distracted from the situation at hand. Disappointed with your apparently short attention span, your not-so-potential-clientanymore ends the meeting and takes her business elsewhere. The good news is the weekend just started for you. The bad news is next week won’t start at all. Meanwhile, had you simply inconspicuously checked your wristwatch, you’d have gotten the time, remained focused, and got the sale too.
The Fumble! Another strike against using your phone as a timepiece? The fumble. With all the effort it takes to dig around for it in your pocket, then unlock it with your sophisticated pass code when you do find it, all in an effort to finally see the time, there’s too much opportunity for a mishap. Say you drop the phone, or your “Angry Birds” app has drained the battery and your phone fails to activate. Now you’re really in trouble. Your prospect is witnessing the inept scene you’re making and you’re rather blatantly demonstrating you care less about their business than you do your Friday evening. All of which could have been avoided with a subtle twist of your wrist while they sipped their coffee. You’d have the time and they wouldn’t have noticed at all. And yes, each time this happens, your wristwatch either saves you money or makes you money. And done often enough, the timepiece eventually pays for itself. www.lxmagazine.com
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Watches Measure More Than Time So, now you’re convinced of the value of your wristwatch in professional situations, but how do you determine what watch to get—or why the type of watch you wear would matter? While wearing a watch is a step in the right direction, it’s important to recognize timepieces measure more than time. The timepiece you choose also measures you—in the eyes of others. Your watch is a subliminal avenue by which you can readily display your degree of self-confidence as well as the level of your success. It’s a non-verbal way of telling clients you mean business. That said, the difference between a Timex and a Rolex is considerably greater than the first three letters of each word. When you check the time with your shoddy-looking $10 made-in-China watch you’re saying in essence; “I do not consider myself worthy of wearing a mechanical masterpiece on my wrist. I’m not successful enough, nor is my business stable enough.” And yes, whether they indicate it perceptibly or not, seeds of doubt are sown into the minds of your clients by its appearance. A cheap watch could well leave them with a nagging sensation of risk about doing business with you. Simply put, it sets a bad impression. On the other hand, when you’re wearing a watch you can be proud of, your clients will respond positively before you even say a word. Plus, in casual conversation, you can demonstrate by explaining to them how magnificent, rare, or meaningful your wristwatch is.
Wear Your Heart on Your Wrist Choosing your watch deserves some consideration. While there are literally thousands of watch brands, and tens of thousands of models to choose from, your watch should reflect your values and your personality. You can wear a piece of history; display your family heritage or your love for a particular sport, all while demonstrating your appreciation for fine machinery and sophistication. Reflect your respect of—and devotion to—your family’s heritage by refinishing your grandfather’s Bulova. If you’re “always in motion,” inspired by architecture or you enjoy extremely modern styling, a Movado timepiece with its iconic museum dial is just right for you. If you’re a diver, the Rolex Submariner is perfect for you. If you play golf, try Tag Heuer’s Links model. And if you’re into airplanes, a pilot perhaps, consider a Breitling
Where to Get Your Watch Lucido Fine Jewelry is Detroit’s premier watch and jewelry destination. The staff is exceptionally knowledgeable in the area of fine timepieces and always open to helping you enjoy exploring their fabulous, unparalleled collection. Breitling, Tag Heuer and beyond, they can help you select the perfect model to complement your professional presentation. And, Lucido Fine Jewelry in addition to effecting complex repairs, is more than happy to do something as simple as change a battery or adjust a steel bracelet—while you wait. No task is too large or too small when it comes to watch repairs. We will also renew and re-polish the case and bracelet of your timepiece to maintain its value and aesthetic quality. Above all, remember; your wristwatch should give you a reason to smile, be confident, stay focused, and leave that smartphone in your pocket.
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NAVITIMER A cult object among pilots and aviation enthusiasts, equipped with Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01, the most reliable and high-performance selfwinding chronograph movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC. $7,715
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A second-generation master jeweler with more than 30 years of experience, Cher Tae saw a need for a jewelry line to empower women to express who they truly are. With this vision, she launched the Belle Étoile (“Bell Eh-twahl”) brand of uniquely timeless sterling silver jewelry in 2004. French for “beautiful star”, Belle Étoile’s name traces back to Cher’s father, who founded a fine gemcutting company with a name meaning “having light”. Cher’s father fostered his family’s dedication to the highest standards by teaching his children and grandchildren to shine in everything they do.
e r a ou
By Julie Vaughan
“We wanted to push the boundaries of design. We wanted to make people look at a piece and then look at it again, then again and again. It is to always make people think differently, to think about -Carolyn Thamkul what jewelry can be.” Cher’s inspirations and artistic direction drive Belle Étoile’s team of French- and Italian-trained designers to conceive original designs that reflect the inner beauty of the wearer. In much the same way as every person is beautiful from the inside out, every Belle Étoile piece shines with subtleties the wearer, as well as her audience, can appreciate. Belle Étoile’s Executive Vice President Carolyn Thamkul, Cher’s niece, comments, “Belle Étoile aspires to make people think differently about what jewelry can be. We want people to look at a piece, and then look at it again, and then again and again, finding something new to enjoy each time.” And they’ve succeeded. The JCK Jeweler’s Choice Awards just named Belle Étoile’s Anastacia cuff as the Best Bracelet Design in its price category for 2011. Worthy of European royalty, Anastacia’s ultra-feminine styling inspires conversations with its air of luxurious intensity. Belle Étoile also earned accolades as a Finalist in the Best Price Point category for its hand-painted Cestina bangle. Expertly formed in woven silver, Cestina vividly reflects the striking detail apparent in every Belle Étoile piece. Belle Étoile’s collections explore an evocative fusion of vintage and modern styling. In the Italian Enamel collection, for example, Belle Étoile designers have transformed the centuries-old enameling process to craft contemporary selections of unparalleled beauty. Cher’s creative design sense combines with a state-ofthe-art “cold enameling” technique, resulting in the Italian Enamel collection’s vibrant, hand-painted colors on timelessly beautiful pieces.
Tying together generations of jewelry craftsmanship and heritage with a European ambiance, Cher named the company Belle Étoile to express the perfect marriage of quality and design. As such, Cher strives to ensure each Belle Étoile piece is as radiant as the brightest stars. Cher observes, “The mindset of fine jewelry and fashion jewelry are blending. Women are now purchasing fine pieces for themselves. They deserve something distinctive and high quality — yet attainable — that they can be proud to wear to a cocktail party or to enhance an everyday outfit.” 62
The classic sensibilities of Belle Étoile’s Royale collection succinctly parallel the “little black dress” every sophisticated woman has in her wardrobe. Graced with an exquisite array of silver swirls and vines and set with enticing stones, Royale perfectly accessorizes everything from casual to formal attire. Royale is a singularly individual expression, highlighting a woman’s particular flair in much the same fashion as she personalizes her take on the CESTINA little black dress.
The Beauty Bound collection features a seashell pearl delicately contained within a silver cage, capturing the elegance inherent in simplicity. The pearl’s softly iridescent glow peeks through the silver setting, quietly radiating understated beauty. Offered with pearls in classic white, silver grey, peacock green, or merlot burgundy, Beauty Bound caters to the modern woman’s unique tastes. www.lxmagazine.com
Jim Grohn, Belle Étoile’s President, says, “Within the past two years, our business has grown exponentially. Belle Étoile has quickly become a ‘shining star’ with our retail partners. We have been recognized by top trade magazines and industry leaders for our stunning designs and marketability.” Whether you are a fashion maven, an artistic ingénue, or a power executive, Belle Étoile offers a jewelry box of looks to make you shine like the star you are. 63
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