Experience the Tromsø Region

e e f re a z i n i d e s ag p in m a -m

THE

EXPERIENCE TROMSØ REGION Winter 2014 - 2015

ADVENTURES

24/7

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Tromsø

TRAVEL SAFELY AND EASILY

Rent a Car Get off the plane at Tromsø airpor t, and go directly to our counter to get the key for your rental car.

One driver & fixed price Your driver waits at the airport until you arrive and then takes you wherever you need to go!

Check out our website and choose the model you prefer.

PROFESSIONAL SERVICE CARING FOR OUR PASSENGERS! CONTACT US FOR MORE INFO AND BOOKING Email: ssp@persontransport.no / Telephone: +47 77 63 00 00 www.airporttransfer.no

(+47) 97 59 30 00 – reservation@sixt.no

www.sixt.com 2

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Lyngsfjord Adventure Magazine, Experience the Tromsø Region, Winter 2014-2015.

Publisher: Markedskompetanse Nord AS (post@mknord.no) Editor: John A. Angelsen (jangelsen@gmail.com) Contributing authors: Hans Olav Eriksen, Jan-Are K. Johnsen, Ruth Norstrøm, Tor Petter W. Christensen, and John A. Angelsen.

Design/layout: John A. Angelsen/ Thor A. Angelsen/ Ruth Norstrøm Marketing & advertising: Hans Olav Eriksen (hoeriksen@hotmail.com) Ruth Norstrøm (ruthnorstroem@gmail.no) Distribution: This is a free magazine, published in November 2014. The magazine can also be downloaded as a PDF file at www.lyngsfjord.com.

Circulation: 20,000 printed copies + downloadable PDF file.

Print: GTC Print AB (www.gtc.se) English translation: Gavin Tanguay (www.gavint-oversetting.no) Chris Barlow (chris@chrisbarlow.no) Facebook and YouTube: Search “Lyngsfjord Adventure”.

WELCOME TO THE

Front page photo: Ole C. Salomonsen www.arcticlightphoto.no

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In our area 1000m high mountains drop vertically into the deep fjords, giving the landscape a dramatic signature that you will not find anywhere else in Europe. Right behind the fjords, the enormous Lapland tundra reaches all the way to the depths of Russia. In this part of Europe, summer brings endless days under the Midnight Sun, while winter offers a chance to experience the Polar Night and the magical Northern Lights, Aurora

Lyngsfjord adventure is a vision.

A vision about making the unspoiled landscapes, the North Norwegian culture and history available and attractive to people from all over the world.

Hans Olav Eriksen, founder

Trip Advisor

WINNER -2011-

Trip Advisor

WINNER

Our success is based on creating a number of activities, set in the Arctic wilderness in the heartland of the Northern Lights: safe and active adventures for the urban guest from Taiwan, the espresso-loving city slicker from London or the self-challenging Brazilian who wants to see the Northern Lights.

There are several destinations for activities and adventures in the wintertime, but Northern Norway has one big advantage: the city of Tromsø.

-2012-

Trip Advisor

WINNER -2013-

Trip Advisor

WINNER -2014-

Tromsø is exceptionally vibrant and welcoming.

It has a university, a great scientific environment, a number of international festivals and the highest concentration of pubs and bars per capita in Norway. By coincidence, this fascinating city is located in the centre of the Northern Lights zone, the background for the term The Aurora Heartland.

Lyngsfjord Adventure is proud to offer you one of the best places on earth to experience the Northern Lights and genuine wilderness adventures.

LAST WILDERNESS

Borealis. We are committed to providing our visitors with experiences of the highest quality, focusing on authentic excursions in the Arctic wilderness. Our managers and guides have a lot of knowledge, skills and history that they take pride in sharing with our guests. Enjoy this magazine and your stay at Camp Tamok.

Hans Olav Eriksen, Managing Director

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THIS MAGAZINE

ADVENTURE

PROGRAMMES

PAGE 34

THE REGION

PAGE 4

REINDEER SLEDDING

MALANGEN RESORT

SNOWMOBILE

PAGE 96

HOTELS

PAGE 40

PAGE 86

TROMSØ ADVENTURE

CITY MAP

POLARIA PAGE 50

PAGE 68

CAFÉ BOOK & PAY PAGE 13

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DOG SLEDDING PAGE 8

RESTAURANTS

LYNGEN ALPS

PAGE 90

PAGE 92

PAGE 72

PAGE 2

PAGE 14

SAMI CULTURE

PAGE 74

PAGE 28

TRAVEL PAGE 48

SHOPPING

PAGE 79

CAR RENTAL

PAGE 30

PAGE 62

POLAR HEROES PAGE 58

NORTHERN LIGHTS CHASE

PAGE 52

VOLLAN GJESTESTUE

TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER

NIGHT LIFE

SOMMARØY ISLANDS PAGE 82

TAXI

PAGE 75

PAGE 18

PAGE 76

CAMP TAMOK

FESTIVAL

PAGE 68

PAGE 3

TIMETABLE

TROMSØ CITY

24/7

PAGE 36

PAGE 12

NORTHERN LIGHTS VISIT PAGE 29

POLAR MUSEUM PAGE 67

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BE A

Musher

Say hello to a bunch of eager huskies that are ready for action.

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DOG SLEDDING The dog sledding adventure starts with meeting the dogs and preparing for the trip.

You will receive instructions on how to drive a dog team. You then drive the dog sled on your own into the white landscapes, through the beautiful Vass Valley, a side valley connected to the great Tamok Valley.

You will at first see Camp Tamok on your way out in the wild. The trails you follow have a total distance of approximately 15 km.

The area where you lead the sled is totally uninhabited, with a landscape of mountains and forest. Out in the wilderness, these dogs are in their right environment.

1. Keep both hands on the sled at all times.

2. Brake by using

3. Assist the dogs when going

your feet.

uphill.

4. In sloping terrain, stand on the top ski.

You will drive in pairs, one driver and one passenger on each sled, with opportunity to switch places half way. After the adventure, you will return to Camp Tamok and a hot meal will be served in our heated lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent).

INCLUDED ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given.

5. Passengers: Keep your arms and legs inside the sled at all times.

DOG SLEDDING Season:

November 1 – March 31

Departure daytime: 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return 16:00 Departure evening: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:

4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total

Price: NOK 1695

children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 10

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WINTER ADVENTURES

lyngsfjord.com

24/7

Timetable Tromsø City

Camp Tamok

09:00

10:15

16:00

14:45

Departure

Arrival

DAYTIME ADVENTURES Dog sledding Snowmobile safari Reindeer sledding

MID DAY BREAK Camp stay

17:00

18:15

24:00

22:45

Departure

Arrival

Please show up at the bus 10 minutes before the scheduled departure time. The bus departs at the exact time to ensure full value of your day.

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EVENING ADVENTURES Dog sledding Snowmobile Reindeer sledding Northern Lights visit

OVERNIGHT Sami tent Timber cabin Aurora chalet Note that there is no transfer back to 10:15 * Tromsø City following the overnight

stay. Spending the night in camp requires that you have booked both an evening excursion before the overnight stay and a daytime excursion after the overnight stay.

Book and Pay Online Simply go to our website and choose from the different xcursions and programmes on your chosen date.

After booking your adventures, you progress to the next step; payment.

All transactions go through Epay, a global system for secure payments online. You do not need to create an

account, and Epay accepts all major credit cards. If you still run into any kind of problem, contact us by email or phone, and we will assist you.

You can read more about terms and conditions on our website. Note that the excursions need to be prepaid for your booking to be confirmed, as it is not possible to pay at the wilderness camp.

If you are already in Tromsø and want to book and pay, please e-mail or call us first to check availability. Be aware that some excursions might be fully booked during the peak season (December to February).

After talking with our staff, you may visit our website via your smart phone, laptop or simply by using a computer at your hotel reception.

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INTO

The White

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Camp Tamok is the starting point for a breathtaking adventure in the driver’s seat of a snowmobile.

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SNOWMOBILE SAFARI

No previous skills are required to drive a snowmobile. All you need is a regular driving licence, and it is just as easy as it is fun. The trail is 15 km each way, 30 km in total. The starting point is at an altitude of 250 m above sea level, and the guide brings you up to an elevation of 875 m. Imagine the views you will have during this snowmobile trip.

We begin with a thorough safety introduction. You will drive in pairs, one driver and one passenger on each snowmobile, with opportunity to switch places during the trip.

Due to the dramatic topography, a reduced speed is held during parts of the tour. On flat land and frozen lakes, you can speed up. The top point of the trail is a frozen lake. If time and weather

1. The throttle lever is on the right-hand side, operated by your thumb.

2. The break handle is located on your left-hand side.

3. Keep your feet and legs inside the protective metal skirts at all times.

4. Lean to the right when making a right turn, and lean to the left when making a left turn.

permit, you can try ice fishing on this lake. The second half of the excursion brings you back down again, ending up at Camp Tamok, our wilderness camp, where you will be served a hot meal in our lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent).

INCLUDED ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Helmet ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

5. If you feel insecure, just let go of the throttle and hand break. The snowmobile will then gently slow down.

SNOWMOBILE SAFARI Season:

November 1 – March 31

Departure daytime: 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return 16:00 Departure evening: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:

4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total

Price: NOK 1695

children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 16

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SAMI

Encounter

The reindeer’s majestic steps in their natural habitat move the sled through the snow.

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REINDEER SLEDDING Reindeer sledding is the oldest form of transport in the north, and an ancient part of Sami culture. The reindeer’s majestic steps in their natural habitat move the sled through the snow.

The sledding trail crosses the Tamok Valley. You will drive in pairs, with one sled for each reindeer. People of all ages can participate on this very “soft” adventure.

This cultural adventure includes trying lasso-throwing, the way the Sami people still catch their reindeers when they are rounded up for marking or slaughter. You will also visit a Sami lavvu (herdsmen’s tent) and you will learn about Sami culture and history with an introduction to traditional Sami handicraft. To conclude this excursion, you will be served a hot meal.

Daytime trips give you an amazing view of the wild mountains in the area, and evening trips in the period November - March will provide a good chance to experience the Northern Lights.

INCLUDED ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

REINDEER SLEDDING Season:

November 1 – March 31

Departure daytime: 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 16:00 Departure:

17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:

4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total

Price: NOK 1595

children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)

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Nature’s Light Show It appears like a glowing light, constantly moving and changing its form, strength and colours.

The sun, the moon and the stars belong to the everlasting and predictable in the universe.

On the other hand, the majestic Northern Lights – or Aurora Borealis – are illusive, changing and unpredictable. The cosmos demonstrates electric and magnetic fields, showing unique movement and colours.

The Northern Lights is not something you may experience on the TV. To get the full experience, you need to escape the bright city light, so-called “light pollution”, and head somewhere dark.

To improve the chance of Northern Lights sightings, you also need to avoid the coastline in order to find dry weather 22

conditions. Camp Tamok, a 75-minute inland drive from Tromsø, provides the optimal conditions, as you can see on the photo beside.

WHAT IS IT? It is a phenomenon that occurs when the solar winds originating from the sun are more powerful than usual, sending charged particles towards the earth. The particles are electrons and protons, glowing when colliding with the earth’s atmosphere.

The Northern Lights occur at a height of more than 100 km above the ground, and may be observed in the night sky in a belt around the Magnetic North Pole. It is often in a wave movement, sometimes filling the sky with blue, green, red and orange light.

Aurora Polaris (polar light) is called Aurora Borealis in the northern hemisphere and Aurora Australis in the southern hemisphere.

SEASON FOR SIGHTINGS The Northern Lights is present year-round, but may only be observed when it is dark.

During summer in the far north, the sun never sets and it is light around the clock. The mystical Northern Lights are visible again from September and on many clear evenings right up to the middle of April.

From mid-April, the amount of darkness each day reduces sharply and from May 21 you can see the Midnight Sun in Tromsø. The contrasts are enormous in the Arctic.

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TROMSØ LIES WEDGED BETWEEN RUGGED MOUNTAINOUS RANGES, THE ARCTIC OCEAN AND THE EXTENSIVE MOUNTAIN PLATEAUS OF LAPLAND. A PERFECT SETTING FOR OBSERVING THE NORTHERN LIGHTS. From beyond the large islands that surround Tromsø, polar storms come in off the high seas.

Coastal weather patterns can change rapidly varying from a snowstorm to a cloud­f ree sky, overcast and calm conditions to high winds and raging storms. Once inside the fjords, however, the weather becomes calmer and drier.

STABLE WEATHER

Beyond Tromsø and the innermost fjords, we find the mountain plateaus, which stretch far and wide and as far as Siberia. Here, the weather remains stable over long periods. With a short distance both into the fjords and to the more unstable weather on the coast, having Tromsø as your base and starting point, it will almost always be possible to get to see the Northern Lights. The best places and conditions are normally found deep in the fjords, but if it should cloud over then it’s just a quick change of location with a short trip towards the coast.

Tromsø lies on the same latitude that statistically is perfect for observing the Northern 24

Lights. If, for example, you were on the same longitude as Finland, which lies further south, one would have to travel to the northernmost part of Finnmark, the northernmost county of Norway, to see the lights.

CHANGABLE WEATHER

The Northern Lights appear each and every night, but solar activity and atmospheric conditions determine whether or not they are visible to the naked eye.

Changable, local conditions within the same region provide better opportunities to see the Northern Lights. If there is something the locals in Tromsø are used to, it’s the changeable weather.

IDEAL LOCATION There is one place, within driving distance of Tromsø, which enjoys particularly favourable conditions for viewing the Northern Lights.

Analysis of the records going back to 1981 shows there is an 18% chance that the weather

in Skibotn will be perfect for seeing the lights.

No other location has more than 6% chance for perfect conditions.

It has been shown that Skibotn enjoys the best conditions throughout Scandinavia. It must be an interaction in and around the mountainous landscape which draws the moisture out of the air. It causes a so­c alled `dry rain shadow ́ .

Camp Tamok in Tamokdalen, where Lyngsfjord Adventure is based, has similar weather conditions to Skibotn.

A BETTER CHANCE

The Northern Lights Observatory has looked at several areas in Scandinavia to find out which

provides the best chance of experiencing the Northern Lights.­ Conditions are fairly similar.

Weather conditions are similar from one place to another in northern Finland and the interior areas of Finnmark. This provides a smaller statistical chance of seeing the lights as the weather is often the same throughout the region.

The Northern Lights guides in Tromsø have, therefore, a better chance than their contemporaries in other areas.They can drive towards the drier Norwegian fjords, up towards the mountain plateaus or drive in the opposite direction towards the Arctic Ocean, depending on where the most favourable conditions are.

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REAL

Stardust

Photos become pale shadows compared to the real thing.

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POLARIA AURORA HUNTING Lyngsfjord Adventure offers Aurora Hunting in cooperation with Polaria, the Arctic aquarium and the biggest attraction in Tromsø. We have a focus on intimate groups, since we appreciate that for many of our guests this is a once in a lifetime experience.

Our guides will seek out the best photo-stop, looking at the backdrop, the lighting and the subject. We will hunt all evening for the magical Northern Lights. The tour includes a special offer for entrance and souvenirs at Polaria for the next day, where you will have the opportunity to see the Northern Lights movie in the panoramic cinema.

If the Aurora is shy and not willing to show itself on your given evening hunt, we will give you the opportunity to have a private show of the Northern Lights movie in the panoramic cinema of Polaria after the hunt.

INCLUDED: ■ Aurora hunting by bus ■ English-speaking guide ■ Instructions in photo technique ■ Insulated body suit ■ Wheat cinnamon cake and tea/coffee ■ Special offer at Polaria RECOMMENDED: ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended)

NORTHERN LIGHTS VISIT The Northern Lights visit at our wilderness camp is an excursion with the main purpose of watching the Northern Lights - Aurora Borealis. Camp Tamok is located a 75-minute drive inland from the centre of the coastal city of Tromsø.

The camp is therefore located in a different climate zone. Here, you find stable dry weather with many days of clear sky.

Due to the stable climate of this location, the persistent Aurora watcher will have excellent chances of spotting the frail rays of this majestic beauty. As this is an uninhabited area, no artificial light will disturb your experience as you attempt to capture the Aurora Borealis with your camera.

During the visit you will be served a hot meal and enjoy a social time around the open fire in the big

POLARIA AURORA HUNTING Season: October 15 – March 31 Departure:

20:00 outside rhe Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return 02:00.

Duration:

6 hours

Price: NOK 995

children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) Sales desk in town:

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At the Polaria aquarium

lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent). If the sky is cloudy or there is no sign of the Northern Lights, you will still have good value for money. A trip to the wilderness camp is an adventure in itself. The dark and quiet surroundings e a genuine Arctic atmosphere.

INCLUDED: ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Norther Lights RECOMMENDED: ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

NORTHERN LIGHTS VISIT Season: November 1 – March 31 Departure:

17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:

4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total

Price: NOK 995

children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)

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Experience one of Europe’s most beautiful sceneries from a helicopter.

GO

Airborne

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TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER

Lyngsfjord Adventure offers the Tromsø city guiding by helicopter: a private tour around the island of Tromsø, crossing the mountain Tromsdalstind (1238 m / 4042 ft above sea level) . You will first get safety instructions, before heading off for the round-trip (duration 15-20 min). From the helicopter you will get a magnificent view of all of Tromsø city, and be given a taste of the Lyngen Alps. During the tour,

you will receive guding about attractions, history of the city, landmarks and imporant bulidings.

INCLUDED: ■ English-speaking guide ■ Tour by heilcopter ■ Safety instructions ■ Transfer from the Ishavshotel by the quayside in downtown Tromsø and back after the tour

TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER Season: September 15 – March 31 Departure:

Departures on the hour

11:00 - 16:00 from downtown Tromsø the Ishavshotel).

Duration: 1 hour included transportation Price: NOK 1395

children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 32

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OVERNIGHT PROGRAMME

Lyngsfjord Adventure, unlike other adventure providers, gives you the opportunity to tailor your own experiences.

Would you like to spend a day at Camp Tamok with adventures daytime and evening, or rather spend a night in the camp with evening and daytime adventures?

Just pick and choose the adventures and accommodation options that you prefer and we will handle the rest.

All overnight programmes include an evening adventure and a daytime adventure the following day - three experiences in one.

On our website you may choose the excursions and accommodation option you prefer. You may sleep in a heated lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent), a timber cabin or in a private chalet (small heated wooden hut for two people.

INCLUDED: ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ 3 meals (2 hot) ■ Insulated body suit ■ Winter sleeping bag ■ English-speaking guide RECOMMENDED: ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended)

OVERNIGHT PROGRAMME Season: November 1 – March 31 Minimum:

At least two guests

Departure: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø.

Return:

16:00 the following day

Duration: 19.5 hours + transport, 23 hours total Price:

Depends on choice of excursions Children 4-15 years: 50% discount

Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 34

FULL-DAY ADVENTURE

Lyngsfjord Adventure, unlike other adventure providers, gives you the opportunity to tailor your own experiences.

Would you like to spend a long day at Camp Tamok with adventures daytime and evening, with a meal and rest in between? Just pick and choose the adventures that you prefer and we will handle the rest.

The “Full-day Programme” includes a daytime adventure, interesting time spent at the camp and then an evening excursion with chance of seeing the Northern Lights - three experiences in one.

On our website you can choose the excursions you prefer. In addition to a meal in between the adventures, you will have access to cabins, tents and snowshoes.

INCLUDED: ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ 3 meals (2 hot) ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ Access to snowshoes ■ English-speaking guide RECOMMENDED: ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

FULL-DAY ADVENTURE Season: November 1 – March 31 Minimum:

At least two guests

Departure:

09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00

Duration:

11.5 hours + transport, 15 hours total

Price:

Depends on choice of excursions Children 4-15 years: 50% discount

Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com

+47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 35

Tromsø City

In many ways Tromsø is the “Arctic capital” of Norway. People from more than 100 countries live permanently in Tromsø.

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TROMSO: View of Tromsø from a nearby mountain. The photo is taken from the destination of the city cable car. Photo: Shutterstock

PARIS of the

NORTH

This is the end of civilization, and the beginning of the largest uninhabited wilderness area in Europe.

The Tromsø municipality has a population of around 70,000, approximately 60,000 of whom live in or nearby the city of Tromsø. Tromsø is by far the largest city in Northern Norway, and is also the largest Nordic

city north of the Arctic Circle.

Tromsø has its own university and brewery. No other universities or breweries in the world are located this far north. The city is surrounded by hundreds of islands, dramatic mountains and deep fjords, and is only a two-hour flight from Oslo, the Norwegian capital.

A VARIETY OF ACTIVITIES

The university provides many opportunities for scientists from all over the world, studying the Northern Lights, the Arctic environment, fisheries, climate change, oil resources in the ocean, and many other topics.

As a result of this activity, there are several museums dedicated to the Arctic life and nature, as well as an Arctic experience centre and aquarium. Tromsø, the Gateway to the Arctic, was founded in 1794, and from 1850 the town was central in fisheries and other marinebased activity.

In the early 20th century, the town

finer ladies in Tromsø ” The could afford to wear the latest fashions from Paris.

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was also the starting point for several famous expeditions in the Arctic waters and in the race to be the first person on the North Pole.

FLOURISHING TOWN

The activity a century years ago led to a flourishing cultural life. The finer ladies in Tromsø could afford to wear the latest fashions from Paris and other cultural centres in Europe. In the Nordic countries this gave Tromsø the nickname “Paris of the North”.

The growing population and status as an Arctic capital, with a lasting boom in the cultural life, has maintained this image to this day. Tromsø has its own professional theatre, an international film festival, and many other festivals, concerts, and events throughout the year.

Taking into consideration the size of the city, the nightlife in the many restaurants and bars is extraordinary. You will find restaurants serving everything from sushi to traditional Norwegian dishes.

WHALER: This statue of a traditional whaler stands in the main square.

Photo: Hurtigruten ASA

TRADITIONAL: Classic colours of the Norwegian wooden houses.

WOODEN CHRURCH: The Tromsø Cathedral is a wooden church dating from 1861. It is located on the main street.

CLIMATE AND SCENERY

the record snow depth is 2.4 metres.

The Midnight Sun is visible from May 21 until July 21, and the Polar Night stretches from November 21 until January 21. During this period, the sun does not rise above the horizon. Tromsø is where civiliza-

Photo: Hurtigruten ASA/Nicole Tessier

Although located so far north, Tromsø has a mild maritime climate. The city’s record low temperature is -18 ºC, which is not that cold considering the latitude. In the short summer, you can experience temperatures up to +28 ºC. In winter

Photo: Hurtigruten ASA/Karlheinz Arnau

tion meets the wild and enormous Arctic environment. You can take the cable car up to a mountain more than 400 metres above sea level and admire the panoramic view of the islands and high mountains surrounding the city.

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Tromsø has a high concentration of top restaurants. The city that has every culinary corner covered.

LOCAL

Dining

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Stockfish

Steak à la Lindstrøm Ing redients

Cloudberr y

400 g mince 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pe pper 1 egg 100 ml milk 2 boiled potatoes (diced) 2 T finel y chopped onion 2 T finel y chopped pickled beetroot 2 T gherkin (chopped) 1 T ca pers 2 T butter or cooking oil for fr ying

The famous North Norwegian chef Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, partisipated on e xpedtitions with Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. Lindstrøm is the inventor of the dish ’steak á la Lindstrøm”.

Arctic dishes Fish and game have always for med the basis for discussions about the Arctic and North Norwegian food culture. Fish from the rich fishing g rounds off the North Norwegian coast has been caught and e xported to Souther n Europe for many centuries. Residents of Norther n Norway have always had a surplus of fish, but little in the way of g rain and other necessar y goods.

For the early Arctic settlements, fish was regarded as a for m of payment. Ever y year the fisher men sailed south to Bergen in south-wester n Norway, where they traded fish for g rain and other food products.

From the norther nmost parts, including from the Tromsø area, fisher men also sailed eastwards to Russia to trade their fish.

But Norther n Norway is not only about fish. From long ago, well before the Viking Age, the people of the north have far med sheep, cows and other livestock, which provided meat and milk. In addition to these common animals, the 42

Arctic menu has its unique character.

Considerable value has been attached to reindeer meat, initially as game found in herds throughout Norther n Norway.

From the 17th centur y, the reindeer was tamed and, to an even g reater e xtent, became a trading commodity. Reindeer meat is still considered a tasty game of high quality, Får i kål and the animal still g razes in the wild Arctic landscape as it has for thousands of years.

The food culture in Norther n Norway in moder n times is characterized by how people supported themselves along this long Arctic coast. Until well into the 20th centur y, virtually all coastal residents combined fishing and far ming to make a living, by fishing in the winter months and farming over the summer. It was common for the men to row far

away from home for months in the winter to fish while the women looked after the children and livestock at home.

Based on this, there were two ing redients of central importance to the food traditions.

One was cod and the other lamb. The ultimate fish dish was mølje, fresh cod ser ved with liver and roe, while the typical meat dish in the autumn was fårikål, a mutton and cabbage stew. This is also archetypal Norwegian and is regarded as the national dish.

The limited means of conserving food in days gone by meant that food to be stored was salted, cured or dried. Dried and salted fish from Norther n Norway for ms the basis of a host of national dishes, such as lutefisk and boknafisk.

If as a visitor to the Tromsø region today you wish to tr y Arctic dishes, you have a range of e xciting choices. Many

Preparation method:

1. Mix the mince with salt and pepper and stir in the milk and beaten egg.

2. Stir the potato, onion, beetroot,

gherkin and capers into the mixture.

3. Form into eight high patties. Melt the butter in a frying pan and fry the patties over moderate heat for 2-3 minutes on each side.

Serve with fried potatoes, fried egg and pickled beetroot.

Reindeer restaurants in Tromsø and the surrounding area offer a rich selection of fish and shellfish from the Arctic sea, cooked and ser ved in various ways.

The range of seafood appears to be ine xhaustible. One may tr y specialties such as g rilled stockfish, fish treated with lye, fresh fish ser ved with live and roe, shrimps from the Barents Sea, king crab and much more.

You cannot avoid mentioning salmon, which comes from cold waters of the far north and is renowned for being of the highest quality.

When it comes to meat, it is possible to obtain reindeer

meat of top quality at any time of the year. You may order the famous lamb from the Lyngen Alps and much more. Side dishes, desserts and dessert wines are often based on wild Arctic berries such as lingonberries, blueberries and cloudberries.

wealthy and for most people meals were accompanied with drinks other than wine. Increased inclusion of wine over the last 50 years has added new dimensions to the Arctic menu.

A new feature is that the traditional dishes are now combined with matching wines. Wine in Norther n Norway was earlier something associated with top officials and the 43

With the invaluable help of an experienced, enthusiastic and, not least, professional staff, and not forgetting the imaginary perfect hostess, Anne Brit Andreassen has established a highly renowned restaurant with a most welcoming atmosphere, Emmas Dream Kitchen. It is situated across the road from the beautiful cathedral in the centre of Tromsø, in Kirkegata 8.

COMFORT AND COSY Dining at Emma´´s can be both intimate and formal but, above all, homely and relaxing. The perfectly prepared food is always tasty. Emma and the staff want to ensure that it will be a joy and a pleasure to dine at the Dream Kitchen. Generosity, care, love and consideration, together with extremely high expertise have been the main factors behind the restaurant’s success. They do their utmost to ensure their guests have a most enjoyable dining experience.

GENUINE AND HONEST FOOD Emma is well versed in traditional french cuisine and also keeps abreast of the latest trends, fashions and culinary skills. She is always open to good ideas from kitchens around the world but,above all, she appreciates, as they say in the north, ’real food’; well prepared local produce, just like our mothers and their mothers before them used to make. Boknafisk av skrei (short-dried cod) and fish au gratin are two such authentic North Norwegian dishes. They always remain on the menu even though the other dishes are changed at least 5-6 times a year, according to season. Honesty and authenticity are two more keywords used to describe the dining experience at Emma´s Dream Kitchen.

DOWN-TO-EARTH AND UNPRETENTIOUS Emmas UNDER is on the ground floor (street level). While the restaurant upstairs has a classic eleganse, in Emma´s Under they have captured the spirit of a time gone by and created a down-to-earth and unpretentious restaurant. One can enjoy a meal in relaxed surroundings at prices all can afford. These well composed weekday menus have been a success and are very popular with the folk in Tromsø. In the evenings, the dishes served in the Dream Kitchen are also available downstairs in Emmas UNDER. Fish au gratin has become the restaurant’s signature dish. This and many more light, quickly-served dishes are included on the lunch menu at very reasonable prices.

Reser vations: (+47) 77 63 77 30 www.emmas.as post@emmas.as 44

45

Bardus Bistro has done a good job of going gastro without losing the intimate atmosphere of a bistro. In part, this is due to the quantity of tables and chairs they’ve crammed into the stripped main bar, forcing people to share and creating a buzzy, convivial atmosphere that works well whether you are from London or from Tromsø.

It’s also due to an excellent range of wine. The short menu with focus on the traditional North Norwegian kitchen has some mouth-watering dishes based on both fish and meat.

Open Monday: Tue-Fri: Saturday: Sunday:

11:00 11:00 12:00 16:00

-

If you think `quick, cheap bites´ when you think of tapas, Presis Restaurant will make you think again. Dishes are way beyond the average sharing plates you get at your typical tapas bar - in both price and quality. Presis ensures ingredients from Northern Norway: reindeer meat, stockfish and salmon. Perfect for light tapas bites or a full Spanish feast, the Arctic way.

17:30 22:00 22:00 22:00

Reservations: (+47) 926 74 888

Location: See map in centrefold www.bardus.no

Open

Tue-Thu: Fri-Sat:

16:00 - 22:00 16:00 - 23:00

Closed Sunday and Monday

Reservations

(+47) 776 81 020 www.circa.as

Location

See map in centrefold

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TROMSØ AIRPORT has several daily flights from Oslo (OSL), the Norwegian capital. Flight time from Oslo International Airport (OSL) is 1hr 50min.

DIRECT FLIGHTS: GATWICK-TROMSØ The airline Norwegian.no has several weekly direct flights.

The fligtht time is 3hr 25min.

OSLO AIRPORT (Gardermoen) Approximate flight London 1hr Ber lin 1hr Rome 3hr Madrid 3hr Paris 2hr Br ussels 1hr

times: 20min 55min 10min 45min 25min 55min

Arctic Gateway In older times Tromsø was the connecting point for expeditions to the North Pole, for whalers in Arctic waters and trappers going to Greenland and other remote locations.

The taverns of Tromsø were the last memory of civilization in the trappers’ mind when they left to stay alone in the wilderness through the long polar winter. Tromsø was also the first sight of civilization for fishermen and others coming from long journeys in the Barents Sea. Nowadays the city is a major hub for flights and ships, especially since there are no railways going this far north. From Tromsø you can fly up to Spitsbergen, close to the North Pole, or on charter routes to Turkey and Greece, which is quite unique for a city with a population of only 71,000.

Tromsø is easy to access, with several daily flights from the international airport in Oslo, the Norwegian capital. The airlines SAS and Norwegian both offer low price tickets. Tromsø airport is located only a 10-minute drive from the city centre.

In compact downtown Tromsø, you can choose between more than 15 hotels. It is therefore easy to find and book your accommodation, in various price ranges and within walking distance of the city’s attractions.

Lyngsfjord Adventure provides all necessary transport by minibus or bus from downtown Tromsø to the locations of the adventures, and these transfers are always included in our prices.

You buy directly from the suppliers, so both the programme and price of your adventure holiday will fit your requirements perfectly.

ights L n r e h t Nor ing d d e l s g Do hing c t a w e l a Wh ding d e l s r e e Reind urs o t e l i b o Snowm ding i r k c a b e Hors eing Snowsho Skiing ises Boat cru ions s r u c x E Scenic Fishing

.n o m so .n o si tt ro v is it tr o m so glki o g livi © koS l S je tije l to : K ti P ho K F o to :

ARCTIC URBAN WILDERNESS Welcome to Tromsø, the gateway to your Arctic experiences! Our partners offer a wide range of adventures that you never will forget. Don’t let the cold or reduced daylight hours put you off from enjoying the Arctic nature. Warm clothing is often included, and most of the activities are suitable for everyone, even young children. Book your activities online at visittromso.no or visit Tromsø Tourist Information Office for booking.

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21 Bardus Bistro (p 46)

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Quality Hotel Saga

26 Sånn (p 59)

Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora (p 72)

27 Glasshytta Blåst (p 66)

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11 Clarion Collection Hotel With

26 Nerstranda Shopping Centre (p 64)

12 AMI Hotel

27

Polaria (p 68)

13 ABC Hotel

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Polar Museum (p 67)

14 Smarthotel Tromsø

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Yougurt Heaven, Main Street (p 53)

15 Skansen Hotel

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Yogurt Heaven, Nerstranda (p 53)

16 Viking Hotel & Apartments

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COOL OFF IN

Café & Lunch

The city features a wide range of cafés with its own character and inspiration, from New York to Norway in the 50’s. For lunch, you may choose between local cakes and tasty international dishes.

52

esign: Erik Joachimsen Foto: Roy Mangersnes - wildphoto.no

There is more to Tromsø’s coffee shops than just great brews.

THE ARCTIC

ENJOY FROZEN YOGURT IN TROMSØ AT: - NERSTRANDA (shopping centre) - JEKTA (shopping mall) - TEMPOHJØRNET (Main Street)

53 yogurtheaven.no

a declaration of love SMØRTORGET was the hub of activity for

over 200 years, Smørtorget was where butter and dairy products were sold in the 1800s, and where Tromsø’s first roundabout was located.

Today, the buildings of Smørtorget have been revived, and filled with love to comprise a lively artistic environment. Here you can meet artists and designers at work, search second-hand stores for great bargains, and enjoy the smells and flavours of homemade pastries at the centrally located Smørkringla Cafe.

IN 2013 Smørtorget came back to life, when

six women took the initiative to create a common square: the new Butter Market. By establishing the new Smørtorget, the desire was to contribute to new life in the square. The old market has a long tradition of exchanging, trading and socializing, and the co-location of 54

several businesses has helped to maintain the feeling of a market. The vision was to create a vibrant atmosphere with artistic and creative activity, scents from the café blending with exciting products of the shop. You can enjoy a cup of coffee, a painting from the watercolour artist featuring motives from the Tromsø area or handmade jewellery or dresses from the local designers, all at the same place. It even has a thrift shop with interior from the city.

TODAY , Smørtorget is the result of love for old objects and a fascination with modern influences. Used furniture stands side by side with modern elements. Local products are made in these inspiring environments.

Smørtoget, Sjøgata 11, 9008 Tromsø www.facebook.com/Smortorget 55

One night CABLE CAR

NL Chase NOK

...wait for it...

950 pp

Two nights NL Chase NOK

1710 pp

Three nights NL Chase NOK

Booking: ■ Radisson SAS Hotel Tromsø ■ Tourist information ■ www.visittromso.no

Photo: Truls Tiller

■ Northern Light presentation and photo instructions from our experienced English-speaking guides.

■ The cable car is located only 10min from the city centre of Tromsø.

■ If the sky is cloudy or there is no visible Northern Lights, you will still have a good value for your money. A visit to the top of Tromsø is an adventure itself.

■ You will get the chance to see Tromsø from above.

■ Get out in the wilderness by snowshoes ■ Hot drinks and Norwegian waffles.

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Photo: Truls Tiller

Photo: Truls Tiller

The main purpose of visiting our spot at the top of Tromsø is experiencing the Northern Lights.

■ A chance to see the Northern Lights if the conditions are right.

■ If you don’t see or get any Auroras, you’ll be able to get an Aurora photo from our photographer for free.

2422 pp

INCLUDED: ■ Transportation ■ Insulated body suit/gloves/ headwear/boots.

November 6 - March 31 (Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun) Duration: 3.5-5 hrs.

Pickup: 19.00 Rica Ishavshotell.

925

NOK (460NOK)

Non-stop Northern Lights chase A rctic Guide Service guarantees a

non-stop Northern Lights chase every single evening (September 15 to March 31).

E very minibus or bus has a professional driver and an authorized guide on board.

T his crew is on one specific mission: to take you wherever the chances to admire the magnificent Aurora are best (at that precise moment).

D uration: six to seven hours. Includes hot cho-

colate, cookies, and free electronic pictures of the excursion posted on our Facebook page.

G uests can check in for our excursions every single day from 14:00 to 18:00.

G uide Service offices right behind the reception of Radisson Blu Hotel (Bankgata 1, 9008 Tromsø).

W e start boarding at 18:15 and we

depart at 18:30 from this address.

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Nightlife

Despite only having a population of 70,000, Tromsø is considered to have one of Norways´s most vibrant nightlifes, featuring a wide variety of clubs and bars.

The reason for the vibrant nightlife is that the city has a relatively large university (the world’s northernmost), combined with dynamic research and economic development. It provides a wonderful mix of young and old, innovative and conservative people who meet at one of the many venues in Tromsø, weekday as well as weekend.

Tromsø has both DJ clubs and more intimate speak-easy bars, all concentrated within walking distance from the city centre.

Café Sånn is a lunch place that turns into an intimate bar in the evening. This is a typical speak-easy, with candlelit tables and vintage furniture. It offers a great mixture of live bands and speak-easy nights that have put it at the heart of the Tromsø nightlife. The bar has one of the best selections of beer, from all over the world.

Open Mon-Thu: Friday: Saturday: Closed on Sundays

11:00 - 01:00 11:00 - 02:00 12:00 - 02:00

(kitchen close 18:00) (kitchen close 18:00) (kitchen close 17:00)

www.circa.as

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59

Bar d mod us Ba r h ern a int ima touch s a mo , s te of re t a a a d ll ag nd whe ill es r re m spe ink.

The eet a people cia nd l f is bar o a g has share rea cus o Caf a n w t c ĂŠ S i omp ĂĽnn lem ne, a . nd ent to Mon 18: Thu: 0001: 00 Fri day : 15: 0003: 00 Sat urd a 18: 00- y: 03: 00 Loc ati on: See cen www tr .ba rdu efold . s.n o

Bar Circa has a focus on Club Music, ranging from Soul, Funk & Disco, to House and Electronic music, with guest DJ`s from all over Scandinavia every weekend. The style and interior is inspired by 50s & 60s Norway, and gives a feeling that you are at a great home party. Worth knowing: Wine evenings every Wednesday since 2003, and Chess evenings every Monday.

OPEN Mon-Tue: 18:00 - 01:00 Wed-Thu: 18:00 - 01:30 Fri-Sat: 19:00 - 03:00 Scan QR code for weblink to a random arctic story.

LOCATION See map in centrefold www.circa.as

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Othere’s journey

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Explorations of the first North Norwegian

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hthere of Hålogaland is often referred to as the first North Norwegian man. He was a Viking Age seafarer known only from an account of his travels which he gave to King Alfred of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Wessex around 890 AD.

count was incorporated into an Anglo-Saxon, or Old English, version of a Latin historical book written early in the 5th century by Paulus Orosius called Historiarum Adversum Paganos Libri VII or Seven Books of History Against the Pagans.

TWO JOURNEYS

In his account, Ohthere said that his home was in “Hålogaland”, where he lived “northmost of all Norwegians”.

Ohthere spoke of his travels north to the White Sea (Russia), and south to Denmark, to the king. He also spoke of the Sami people (Finnas), and of two peoples called the Cwenas, living in Cwena land to the north of the Swedes, and the

Ohthere described two journeys which he had made, one northward and around the Kola Peninsula into the White Sea, and one southward to the Danish trading settlement of Hedeby. Ohthere’s story is the earliest known written source for the term “Denmark” (dena mearc), and perhaps also for “Norway” (norðweg). His ac62

WASTELAND

Beormas, whom he found living by the White Sea. He said that he travelled north mainly to hunt walrus, but he had also wanted to know if anyone lived to the north of the wasteland.

He sailed along the coast for many days until he came to a large river (in Russia): he said that the far bank of this river was the first inhabited land that he had encountered since leaving his home. To this point, Ohthere said that all the land had been waste, except for the Sami fishermen and hunters.

CHIEFTAIN

Ohthere’s home may have been in the vicinity of Tromsø, in the Troms County in Northern Norway. Rich archaeological

finds in the area, among other import cases from the east, gives us reason to believe that Ohthere’s main residence was located here. One of chieftain Ohthere’s duties, according to his own account, was to defend the area and its inhabitants of Norse and Sami groups from the Kvens who came across the plateau in their light riverboats to ravage and rob the Norwegian side.

in detail, which was probably in agreement with the various lords. According to Ohthere, the Finns had to pay tax according to their rank or lineage.

The highest in rank had to pay 15 marten skins, five reindeer skins, one bear skin, 10 ambers of feathers, a bear or otter skin tunic and two ship ropes; each 60 ells long, one made of whale hide and the other of sealskin.

TAXMAN

Sources: Wikipedia, Mørkets og kuldens rike / Nils M. Knutsen (red.). Tromsø : Cassiopeia, 1993

Ohthere tells of collecting the tax, which finding was probably an important source of income for the north Norwegian chieftains. By then it was well established and regulated

Original page from Othere’s journey in the Seven Books of History Against the Pagans.

63

The joy of shop ping in Tromsø WITH 46 STORES LOCATED IN THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS, THERE IS LITTLE THAT CAN COMPARE TO NEDSTRANDA.

You will find Nerstranda shopping centre centrally located in downtown Tromsø, surrounded by snowcapped mountains and dark blue seas. With 46 stores and eateries, and 2.3 million annual visitors, this centre leads Tromsø in fashion and shopping.

Here you can wander among trendy brand stores and well-known chain stores. A well deserved break can be taken at any of the four eateries while observing passing cruise boats. To complete the experi-

64

ence, Nerstranda offers fashion inspiration with exhibitions, concerts and other cultural events. Come and enjoy a shopping experience where the focus is on quality and service.

Nerstranda is located close to Strandtorget in southern Tromsø and is easily acsessible by foot and bus.

The shopping centre also has underground parking with direct acsess to its stores.

Welcome!

65

The Polar Museum Blåst was established in 2002, and has become a natural stop for visitors to the Paris of the North. The owners blow glass at the workshop virtually every day, and it might be possible to see the transformation from molten glass to the most beautiful objects.

Be aware, it will be as hot as a sauna.

The history of Norwegian trapping, Arctic science and polar expeditions

Tromsø has long been an important base for many polar expeditions. The Polar Museum exhibits and presents this polar seafaring tradition.

Tromsø has been the centre of seal hunting in North Norway, and the town was established as the “Gateway to the Arctic” in the late 1800s. At the museum you will meet men, women, vessels and equipment that were essential for life on the sea and in the Arctic.

The Polar Museum also presents

Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00 Saturday: 10:00 - 16:00 (Closed Dec 25 - Jan 5) facebook.com/nordensparistromso

temporary exhibitions based on new and ongoing research in the Arctic region.

The Museum is situated in a historic Custom warehouse, which dates back to 1840s and has an idyllic location on the waterfront in the historic Skansen area.

EXHIBITIONS: ■ Overwintering in the Arctic ■ The trapper Henry Rudi who killed 713 polar bears ■ The first female trapper to winter in the Arctic – Wanny Woldstad ■ Seal hunting in the Arctic Ocean ■ The life and expeditions of Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen ■ Helmer Hansen and Hjalmar Johansen, who accompanied Amundsen to the South Pole ■ Svalbard, Wilhelm Barents’ discovery of the region in the 16th century ■ Whaling in the 17 and 18th centuries and Russian overwintering.

Location: See map in centrefold

Address: Søndre Tollbodgate 11, 9008 Tromsø.

Phone: (+47) 77 62 33 60 Web: www.uit.no/polarmuseet

Photo: Tomaz Wacko, Tromsø University Museum

Photo: June Åsheim

Production includes everything from drinking vessels of all kinds to vases and bowls for the more sculptural and unique items. All glass blowers participate in the formulation and design. Most likely, you will find something to your liking.

66

Opening hours 11:00 - 17:00 (Aug 15 - Jun 14) 09:00 - 18:00 (Jun 15 - Aug 14)

POLAR MUSEUM 67

Polaria

Visit the Arctic aquarium in the city centre.

Polaria has an Arctic aquarium, interesting knowledge-based exhibits, a panoramic cinema, a gift and souvenir shop and a cafeteria.

In our panoramic cinema, you can look forward to the Ivo Caprino film ”Svalbard - Arctic Wilderness”. A little auk takes you on an airborne trip with you in a helicopter, along the west coast of Spitsbergen - the largest island in the group known as Svalbard.

We also show the film ”Northern Lights in Arctic Norway”. In this film, the famous Tromsø-photographer Ole C. Salomonsen show you Northern Lights as it can be in Tromsø in his beautiful work.

After the film, visitors are taken along the ”Arctic Walkway” where you can experience some of the elements of Arctic nature and the research that is performed in these areas.

In the aquarium, the main attraction are the bearded seals and the harbour seals. The bearded seal is an Arctic species, and they are very popular among children and adults alike, due to their quiet disposition and intelligent nature.

The aquarium also has interesting exhibits of the most common species of fish and other bottom species you can find in the Barents Sea.

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Prices & hours WINTER OPENING HOURS

Sept. 1 - May 17:

10:00 - 17:00

Dec 24 and 25: 13.00-16.00 TICKET PRICES (NOK)

120 60 85 70 280

Adult: Children: Senior: Student: Family:

TRAINING AND FEEDING

Training and feeding of the seals every day at

12:30

and

15:30

www.polaria.no (+47) 77 75 01 00

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Polar heroes The city of Tromsø has always been a hotspot for polar expeditions. Several of the most famous polar heroes were trained by local trappers.

Robert F. Scott

Fridtjof Nansen

Helmer Hanssen

Roald Amundsen

POLAR HEROES

Perhaps the best known polar hero is Roald Amundsen.

Amundsen led his famous expedition in the race to reach the South Pole in 1911. His rival was the British explorer Robert Falcon Scott.

Amundsen’s right-hand man was Helmer Hanssen from Tromsø. Hanssen was a navigator and a highly skilled musher. Since only a short distance remained, Hanssen made it seem as if his dogs were tired so that Amundsen would become the first man to reach the South Pole.

AT THE POLE: Roald Amundsen (L),

Helmer Hanssen, Sverre Hassel and Oscar Wisting. Photo taken by the teams fifth member Nils Bjaaland.

The Tragedy

Englishman Scott and his companions reached the South Pole a month later.

They died on the way back from disappointment, cold, exhaustion and scurvy.

Hanssen was full of admiration for Scott’s achievement, and thought his expedition was far greater in terms of sheer willpower than the Norwegian expedition.

Scott and his crew pulled the heavy sledges themselves for great distances, while the Norwegians had learned from the Eskimos and used dogs to pull their sleds.

Describing Amundsen’s expedition, Hanssen wrote in his memoirs: “Amundsen’s brilliant planning, our comrades’ careful preparatory work 70

and our dogs’ endurance had made the journey into a recreational trip.”

Amundsen dies

Like the other famous explorers, Amundsen learned seamanship from Tromsø’s many trappers. Most of his polar expeditions started in Tromsø, including what proved to be his final expedition - a rescue mission to save

his Italian colleague, Umberto Nobile.

Nobile went missing in the far north in 1928. Amundsen went on a rescue mission using a seaplane. The plane was last seen as it took off from the port of Tromsø in June 1928. No one has been able to find the wreck of Amundsen’s seaplane, but Nobile was found in good condition.

When he arrived in Norway, the grief of losing Amundsen was felt so badly that Nobile did not step onto Norwegian soil. A landing from a ship was added directly into the train that transported the Italian out of the country.

Trickery

The great explorer and Nobel Peace Prize winner Fritdjof Nansen also had Tromsø as a

starting point. Nansen financed an expedition for Amundsen to conduct research in the Arctic.

Amundsen had other plans, and just after the ship had left the dock he told the crew that the target was the South Pole. Nansen never forgave Amundsen for this, although the South Pole expedition was a success.

Ironically, Scott is the rea-

son we can state with certainty that Amundsen’s expedition was the first to reach the South Pole. The finding of Scott’s tent, and thereby Scott’s diary and photographs of Amundsen’s tent, provides the proof that Amundsen had been to the South Pole.

71

The hotel has large, comfortable rooms and, at no extra cost, our guests are welcome to use our compact training centre, the sauna and our outdoor Jacuzzi.

Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora is situated on the waterfront in the centre of Tromsø.

Whilst relaxing in the Jacuzzi, our guests can enjoy a good drink from the restaurant while maybe catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights dancing across the night sky.

We offer a good nutritious breakfast; tea/coffee and fruit is available throughout the day; waffles in the afternoon and a generous evening buffet, which includes soup, warm dishes, salads, desserts and much more - all included in the room rate!

We wish you a warm welcome and a most enjoyable stay in the Northern Lights city of Tromsø.

Elevating Norway By using helicopter, you will be able to see the tourist attractions in the area you want to visit from the air.

Helicopter transport is also an easy and effective way to access remote places that othervise would be difficult to visit. With 30 helicopters, we are the largest helicopter company for 72

domestic flights. We can fly both large and small groups. Our helicopters have many different seating combinations from simple, small sightseeing helicopters to the larger, exclusive VIP helicopters.

helitrans.no

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NORTHERN LIGHTS FESTIVAL January 23 - February 1, 2015

Arctic Philharmonic

During the 10 days of the festival, hundreds of artists will be on stage and make their mark on the cultural life of the Arctic Capital.

ADVENTURES

24/7

Tromsø Adventure is your preferred incoming tour operator during your visit to Tromsø.

We offer all-inclusive tours for tourists visiting Tromsø and the city`s beautiful surroundings.

The company consists of several destinations and activities: Malangen Brygger, Sommarøy Arctic Hotel, Arctic Guide Service, Lyngsfjord Adventure and Din Taxi.

Photo: Yngve Olsen Sæbbe

The 2015 festival consists of around 40 concerts to inspire, challenge and entertain visitors to, as well as residents of, Tromsø.

Tromsø Adventure offers a combination of different activities and destinations in three and four-day packages.

We specialize in soft adventures for the average tourist, and the main activities will be sea fishing, boat trips, dog sledding, snowmobile safaris, whale safaris, winter fun activities, Sami culture and, of course, Northern Lights experiences.

Many of the activities are available at Touch-screens at selected places in the centre of Tromsø: Ishavshotel, Hotel Comfort Saga, Hotel Radisson Blu, Hotel Thon, Rica Grand Hotel Tromsø and Polaria.

Welcome to an all-inclusive tour in the Tromsø region.

In 2015, the Northern Lights Festival offers something for everyone. With a wide variety of genres ranging from early music to modern, from opera to jazz, chamber music, symphony orchestras and dance. The festival presents an interesting mixture of top quality performances including many artists from the north, among them this year ’s opening concert by The Arctic Philharmonic Orchestra . The jazz singer Lisa Simone is returning to Tromsø to continue her cooperation with Tromsø Big Band , which this time will result in a live recording, Live at The Edge.” Beloved Norwegian artists Halvdan Sivertsen and Jørn Hoel are performing at the festival, for the first time. Vokal Nord has invited Pratum Integrum Orchestra from Moscow. From St. Petersburg comes the fantastic mezzo-soprano Galida Sidarenko . Bugge Wesseltoft is challenging genre boundaries by bringing hip-hop/beatboxing and other contemporary music forms into his concept of contemporary jazz. This time he will be performing with Amina Sewali - A beatboxing one-woman band. In addition, according to tradition, every day during the festival there will be free lunch concerts.

For the compete programme, visit the festival´s website.

Lisa Simone

FESTIVAL

The Northern Lights Festival 2015 welcomes you to experience international and local artists, music and dance in the Arctic Capital of Tromsø. nordlysfestivalen.no/en 74

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THE

Region

A visit to Tromsø is incomplete without an excursion into the wider region. The entire region is reachable within a 90-minute drive. Providers of excursions include the transport in their tour prices, and the drive is often an exciting adventure in itself.

The region of Tromsø is like a concentrated version of Norway, offering a high density of shifting landscapes, the meeting point of several cultures, a wide range of activities and modern city life.

Enjoy the modern comforts of Tromsø city, and experience the high-quality and intimate hotels and restaurants surrounding the city.

The region has had a distinctive impact on the history and culture of three different peoples: the Sami, Norwegians and Kven population (people of Finnish stock). Throughout the centuries, the Tromsø region has traded in many languages: Russian, Kven, Sami, Norwegian and other European languages. In many ways, the people of Arctic Norway have always been welcoming and open to visitors from other nations. There are

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so many options when you travel to the Tromsø region. The landscapes are magnificent, with mountains swooping into the dramatic sea and fjords. For many, the nature and landscapes provide sufficient reason for the trip. For locally produced and developed food with homemade cakes and bread, pay a visit to Vollan Gjestestue.

For modern accommodation and a high quality restaurant right by the fjord, stay for a night or maybe a week at Malangen Resort. To experience life on the coast, head for Sommarøy, which is by the open sea leading to the Arctic Ocean. For spectacular mountains dropping vertically into the sea, visit the Lyngen Alps.

For Northern Lights, dog sledding, reindeer sledding or snowmobile safaris, go to Camp Tamok and the daily excursions by Lyngsfjord Adventure.

Tromso City

Sommarøy Islands

Senja Island

The Lyngen Alps

Malangen Resort

Vollan Gjestestue

Målselv Fjellandsby

Camp Tamok 77

Do g sle dd ing

Sam i cultu re

Ski summ it in the Lynge n Alps.

Off-pi ste.

Snow mob iling

N or th er n Li gh ts S af ar i

The Balsfjord is situated in the middle of the Troms County and runs more than 50 km inland from Tromsø. The fjord is surrounded by spectacular mountain chains that in several places are more than 1200 m high.

In the southeast the fjord follows the Lyngen Alps, where some of the peaks reach over 1800 m above sea level. The bedrock is rich in lime and the hillsides are characterized by rich deciduous woods and a thriving agricultural landscape. A number of rivers and creeks flow into the fjord, especially into its inner half.

Our café serves traditional homemade food with “A taste of Balsfjord”. Our main focus there is on creating amazing dishes with local ingredients found throughout Balsfjord.

In addition to that we also have 22 cosy hotel rooms and 10 studio apartments with the “at home feeling”. All our rooms and studio apartments have private bathroom, Wi-Fi access, cable TV and large breakfast buffet included in the room rate.

Welcome to our hotel!

Ex pe rie nc e of Arc tic win ter

Right in the heart of the majestic Lyngen Peninsula, you will discover Sørheim Brygge. Surrounded by the Lyngen Fjord, which has a well-earned reputation for good fishing, and the mighty Lyngen Alps, the resort is perfect for adventures all year round.

At Sørheim Brygge, you will find all the facilities required for an active stay which ever season you choose to visit.

The resort has a pleasant, sheltered waterfront setting. As our guest, the best fishing spots in the Lyngen Fjord, the highest and most challenging summits, the spectacular nature and essential facilities are all close at hand, within walking distance of the resort.

We also have a pub, conference facilities for 30 people and dining.

Opening hours Monday-Friday Saturday Sunday

Café 07.00-21.30 09.00-21.30 10.00-21.30

Reception 06.30-23.00 07.00-01.00 07.00-23.00

(+47) 77 72 23 00 www.vollangjestestue.no post@vollangjestestue.no

Standard:Top-class tourism resort with well-appointed luxury holiday apartments Open: All day, all year Price: Call us for information Info: New jetty, good boats and canoes and top service Location: The municipality’s administrative centre, Lyngseidet Website: sorheim-brygge.no Mail: post@sorheim-brygge.no

Tel: +47 41 20 14 80 9060 Lyngseidet 78

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Giants of the Sea

The Arctic Ocean is the habitat for many different whales. The sea outside Tromsø offers several locations where there is a high probability of observing these large and majestic marine mammals.

Porpoise

S

ome of the best locations for whale observations are Sommarøy (see page 82), located west of Tromsø City, and of the coast of the large island Senja (see page 84), southwest of Tromsø. Both these locations offer the opportunity to join guided tours with experienced crews.

The humpback whale and killer whale are the most common species found in shallow water close to the coast. There are also populations of smaller whales, several species of seal and a rich bird life. If you spend time along these shores during the daylight hours, eagle sightings are a daily occurrence.

THE HUMPBACK WHALE The humpback whale, which reaches a length of between 15 and 18 metres, can weigh up to 50 tonnes. The female is a little bigger than the male. Humpback whales are easily distinguished from other whales by their 5 m long flippers and the hump on their backs.

The bumps found on the head are called tubercles. Each tubercle contains a single hair follicle, similar to a cat’s whisker. The humpback whale varies in colour from grey to black with white markings on their underside. The varying patterns on the tail flukes are sufficient to identify individuals.Humpbacks sing some of the most complex animal songs ever recorded. The sounds consist of a complex series of whistles and deep calls sung in a specific order, which may last for several minutes or sometimes as long as half an hour. Their songs are not 80

inborn – they learn them from each other.

The whales feed on krill (small shrimp-like animals) and small fish and eat up to 1.5 tonnes of food a day. Their food is trapped to be swallowed by baleen plates, not teeth. These whales, like others, regularly leap from the water, landing with a tremendous splash. They are famous for their water acrobatics.

THE KILLER WHALE The killer whale (Orcinus orca), also referred to as the orca or less commonly as the black-

fish, is a toothed whale of the dolphin family. These whales are found in all the world’s oceans. A typical killer whale has a black back, white chest and sides, and a white patch above and behind the eye. Killer whales typically range from 5 to 8 metres in length and can weigh up to six tonnes.

Some feed exclusively on fish, while others hunt marine mammals such as sea lions, seals and walruses. Sometimes a group of killer whales might even attack other whales. Orcas are apex predators, meaning that they lack any natural pre-

Killer Whale

dators. However, wild killer whales are not considered a threat to humans.

Orcas (killer whales) live in family groups called pods, each containing up to 40 individual killer whales. A pod may contain up to four generations of orcas.

A female gives birth to one calf every five years and on average

Humpback Whale

produces a total of five calves.

Interestingly, most males never leave their mothers.

The average life span of a killer whale in the wild is 50 to 80 years. The lifespan of killer whales in captivity is typically significantly shorter, usually less than 25 years. However, a few have reached their 40s.

Killer whales have their own culture, since their hunting techniques and vocalisations are passed down generations.

Each group of whales has a unique dialect of calls. In general, their language consists of three types of sounds: clicks, whistles and pulsed calls.

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Experience the raw Norwegian coast Riviera beaches, stunning views and a vibrant fishing village; Sommarøy is a great excursion from Tromsø, less than a one-hour drive from the city centre.

A more beautiful name than

Sommarøy (Summer island) is hard to imagine. The origin comes from the time when most people lived on the neighbouring island, and Sommarøy was used as a summer grazing area for cows.

Sommarøy began to develop around 1900 as a consequence of the motorisation of the fishing fleet. In the centuries before, when Norwegians rowed and sailed, the aim was to live

out by the coast so it was as close as possible to the fishing grounds. Sommarøy is one of the most active fishing villages in Troms County.

The view from Sommarøy is

spectacular. To the north you can see all the small islands in the municipality of Tromsø. The highest of these, Håja, rises 486 m and has the same shape as the Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø.

Some believe that is has inspired the architect. To the south

is the steep coast of the island, while you can see the open sea to the west.

The beaches at Sommarøy are equal to those of the Riviera. Although we will not claim that the water temperature is similar to the Mediterranean, some summers it is warm enough to have a dip. Far more common though are long, beautiful walks on the beach to collect shells and admire the view.

(+47) 77 66 40 00 sommaroy.no/en

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EXCLUSIVE

Whale and Northern Lights expedition

Fairytale Island

Senja is Norway’s second largest island and is located a short distance southwest of Tromsø.

You can reach Senja from Tromsø via ferry in the summer. It is also possible to access Senja year round by a bridge further south.

The island covers an area of 1,600km² and has a population of nearly 8000.

Senja is well known for its varied landscape.

The island’s outer coast, the part that faces west and north towards the open sea, is characterized by dramatic mountains and beautiful sandy beaches. Some fishing villages are scattered on the few spaces of flat land.

The eastern side of the island, which faces the mainland, is dominated by rolling hills and birch forests. The landscape in the eastern and southern parts of the island is somewhat milder and the mountains have more rounded tops. The inland valleys contain small villages and farms.

The island offers a rich array of natural and historical attractions. On a drive of a few 84

In December and January the daylight is limited, but still beautiful. We go out by boat to spot large whales - the orca and humpback whales. If the weather is too bad for the boat ride, we replace the whale safari with a wildlife safari. We are looking for sea eagles, moose and reindeer on the island of Senja.

Whale watching is replaced by Wildlife safari during the period when there are not normally whales in the fjords.

hours around the island, visitors will experience dramatic and varying landscapes. There is a high chance that you will see the whitetailed eagle while you are exploring by car or from your doorstep if you stay overnight.

The seasons in the Arctic provide dramatic contrasts with the Midnight Sun in the summer months and the majestic Northern Lights in winter. The distance from the coast to the highest mountain peaks is short, offering excellent hiking opportunities for novices and experienced hikers alike. All hiking trails on Senja are well marked in the terrain and on hiking maps available from the local tourist information office.

Ideal ways to explore this exciting island include hiring a bike, kayak or boat. There is a wide range of guided adventures on offer all year round, and the surrounding sea is a paradise for deep-sea fishing and whale watching safaris. Senja offers exciting and varied accommodation options, and the many mountain peaks are perfect for summer hikes and winter ski ascents, all of which are rewarded with spectacular views.

TUESDAY-FRIDAY: 3.5 DAYS OR SATURDAY-MONDAY: 2.5 DAYS.

All inclusive! all meals - accommodation - activities - whale watching - transport Finnsnes / Senja.

More information: www.basecampsenja.no post@basecampsenja.no. (+ 47) 917 09 618 Booking: www.visittromso.no 85

The

Aurora Resor t of Tromsø

Malangen Resort is a resort in the Tromsø region providing high quality accommodation, dining and activities for the corporate and leisure markets.

king distance of the resort. In winter our guests can choose between snowmobile safaris, dog sledding, ice fishing and our unique Northern Lights Watch.

Malangen Resort has an idyllic waterfront location on the picturesque Malangen Peninsula, just an hour ’s drive from Tromsø. During the winter season, we aim to be the leading Northern Lights resort in the Tromsø region, providing complete solutions involving transport, accommodation, dining and Northern Lights adventures. We offer high quality seasonal adventures at our very own wilderness camp, Camp Nikka, located in the pristine mountains within wal-

Accommodation is available in a choice of hotel room, apartment, sea-view cabin, deluxe sea-view cabin or deluxe waterfront cabin – all offering a high standard of quality and comfort and spectacular views.

Choose an evening in an intimate, cosy cabin or a social gathering at the hotel.

Our restaurant specialises in North Norwegian cuisine made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

NORTHERN LIGHTS WATCH ■ Malangen Resort key adventure, “The Watch”, enhances your opportunity of seeing the mystical Northern Lights during your stay in the Tromsø region.

■ We prepare for this magical journey with a briefing about this natural phenomenon and the current conditions before we set off on a chase to wherever the light takes us.

■ Our experienced guides continue the Northern Light chase long after you fall a sleep in our superior hotel rooms or deluxe apartments. If they spot the elusive light dancing in the night sky while you’re sleeping, we will wake you up with a m agical Sami song. That means it’s time to jump into our Northern Light survival k it and meet in the hotel lobby within 10 minutes.

www.malangen.com

booking@malangenbrygger. no

Phone: +47 77 65 58 00

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Welcome to THE MOUNTAINS!

Welcome to THE MOUNTAINS! BOOK NOW! • Only 20 minutes from Bardufoss Airport • Less than two hours flight from Oslo (several daily arrivals and departures).

• 2-3 hours drive from Tromsø, Narvik or Harstad.

• Guided tours - try our Northern Lights Safari, Dog Sledding or Ice Fishing

Experience fantastic skiing in beautiful scenery. You will find wonderful ski slopes, skipark, cross-country trails with panoramic views, restaurant, pub, sporting goods store and much more.

We have nice apartments with one or three bedrooms and modern cabins, some with sauna and outdoor jacuzzi.

We will do everything to make your stay fantastic, whether you come visit us with your family, your co-workers or your friends.

Welcome!

• Great place for all seasons!

• Only 20 minutes from Bardufoss Airport • Less than two hours flight from Oslo (several daily arrivals and departures).

Visit the world´s northernmost water park with activities for the whole family. Just a short drive away you can meet wolves, bears and other arctic animals in the world´s northernmost zoo.

• 2-3 hours drive from Tromsø, Narvik or Harstad.

For summer 2015 we will present several new exciting activities – check our website.

• Guided tours - try River Canooeing, Salmon Fishing or Mountain Biking

Welcome!

• Great place for all seasons! www.malselvfjellandsby.no booking@malselvfjellandsby.no +47 9414 0000

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BOOK NOW!

Experience the midnight sun, fishing in beautiful Målselv River.

Go hiking or biking in a varied terrain. Try riding, kayaking, canoeing and more.

www.malselvfjellandsby.no booking@malselvfjellandsby.no +47 9414 0000

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Vertical Landscape The Lyngen Alps are famous for off-piste skiing. You can literally ski from the summits down to the sea.

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The wide chain of peaks star ts out on the tip of the Lyngen Peninsula, between the two big fjords, the Ullsfjord and the Lyngen Fjord. The peninsula between the fjords is 15-20 km wide, and in both fjords mountains higher than 1000 m drop ver tically down in the blue water.

100 KM LONG

The mountain chain continues on the peninsula, all the way to the Swedish border. This makes the Lyngen Alps more than 100 km long, depending on definition.

Between the peaks, there are also more gentle hills and plateaus. Here you find beautiful valleys, forests, cascading rivers, and countless lakes. Still the area is dominated by the wild peaks, several glaciers and deep ravines. The highest mountain, Jiehkkevarri, is 1833 m above sea level. And “above sea level� in the Lyngen Alps area means that the sea it self is the foot of the mountain.

EXTRAORDINARY WILDLIFE

The first signs of settlement are from the Stone Age, but the first churches in the area came as late as the 18th century. The population in the area today is still low and scattered. The largest settlement, Lyngseidet, has a population of approximately 800.

The wildlife is extraordinary, with whales, seals, white-tailed eagles and a wide variety of other bird species, as well as all kinds of Arctic mammals on land.

You can catch cod, coalfish, wolf fish and haddock in the fjord. In the mountain lakes you can catch trout and Arctic char.

OFF-PISTE

The Lyngen Alps are famous for off-piste skiing. You can literally ski from the summits down to the sea. Several companies provide return transfers by boat to the most fabulous locations.

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CAMP

Tamok

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Camp Life Camp Tamok is located in the Tamok Valley, a 75-minute drive from downtown Tromsø.

This is the wilderness camp belonging to Lyngsfjord Adventure. It consists of several lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tents), timber cabins, an outdoor hot tub and sauna, toilet facilities, a husky yard and a reindeer enclosure.

There is no plumbing or electricity. The heating and lighting is by open fire, wood stoves and oil lamps. It is primitive, but accordingly authentic and genuine, with a special atmosphere.

It is never impersonal, as there are only guided tours with a limited number of guests and staying at the camp is an Arctic experience in itself.

In wintertime the camp is the starting and ending point for excursions by dog sled, snowmobile and reindeer sled. The trails start from the camp and lead into wilderness areas with no signs of human activity. The camp’s large lavvu and main cabin are where the hot meals are served after sledding, ski school, snowshoeing and other winter excursions.

Camp Tamok is located in an area with optimal conditions for experiencing the Northern Lights. Although Camp Tamok is located only a 75-minute drive from downtown Tromsø, it is in a different and drier climate zone, 94

with clear inland mountain weather. The dry climate generates many cloud-free night skies in winter, as well as during summer. The camp’s location away from the bright artificial lights and inhabited areas makes it perfect for your own Arctic experience - especially also for taking photos of the Northern Lights. Camp Tamok is of cour-

se the destination for a guided Northern Lights visit. You can also choose to spend the night at the wilderness camp.

The camp is situated 280 m above sea level, with stable snow conditions. You can often go dog sledding in the period October-May, when down at sea level is often no snow at all at the same time.

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SAMI 96

Culture 97

People of the North The Sami history and ancient religion are full of tales and mysteries A long time before any national borders existed, the Sami people of Arctic Europe lived in a wide area that stretches over the regions now known as the northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Russian Kola Peninsula. This area is internationally best known as Lapland, but the Sami people of Norway call their area Sapmi.

Norway is the country with the largest population of Sami people, around 40,000. In the village of Karasjok in Northern Norway, the Sami people have their own parliament, working to represent the Sami population, and to protect and promote 98

DRUM: Ornament on a sami shaman drum.

their unique culture.

The Sami flag has a circle as symbol for the sun (red) and the moon (blue). These colours may also be found in the characteristic detailed embroidery on the traditional Sami clothing.

Most of all the Sami people are known for their free seminomadic mountain lives, constantly moving reindeer flocks between the summer grazing land by the coast and the Lapland tundra in the winter.

There are about 100,000 reindeer in the Norwegian part of Lapland. The very tasty reindeer meat is considered to be healthy.

100 YEARS AGO: A Sami family poses by a lavvu.

SAMI FLAG: The flag represents sami people living in the Nordic countries and Russia.

The clothing and traditional handicraft of the Sami people (known as duodji) shows that their society has always been very aesthetically oriented. Regular artefacts have been decorated and richly ornamented.

Duodji training used to be a natural part of the upbringing and from ancient times was known as a Sami specialty.

In the old days, the Sami shamans (known as noaiddit) had a lot of respect in the area, also from other Norwegians.

There are countless stories of shaman achievements, both in terms of clairvoyance and their abilities to use witchcraft.

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Book and Pay Online Simply go to our website and choose from the different xcursions and programmes on your chosen date.

After booking your adventures, you progress to the next step; payment.

All transactions go through Epay, a global system for secure payments online. You do not need to create an

account, and Epay accepts all major credit cards. If you still run into any kind of problem, contact us by email or phone, and we will assist you.

You can read more about terms and conditions on our website. Note that the excursions need to be prepaid for your booking to be confirmed, as it is not possible to pay at the wilderness camp.

If you are already in Tromsø and want to book and pay, please e-mail or call us first to check availability. Be aware that some excursions might be fully booked during the peak season (December to February).

After talking with our staff, you may visit our website via your smart phone, laptop or simply by using a computer at your hotel reception.

POLARIA AURORA HUNTING

TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER

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DOG SLEDDING PAGE 8

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NORTHERN LIGHTS VISIT

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