e e fre azin side g in ma ap -m
ADVENTURES
24/7
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Rent a Car Get off the plane at Tromsø airport, and go directly to our counter to get the key for your rental car. Check out our website and choose the model you prefer.
(+47) 97 59 30 00 – reservation@sixt.no
www.sixt.com 3
SEE OUR FANTASTIC OFFERS AND OPPORTUNITIES AT WWW.TROMSOCAMPING.NO At Tromsø Camping you can experience the arctic nature even closer. Stay in one of our new lodges only five minutes from the city center. We also offer a various selection of activities to our guests. Check out our packages for the winter on the website.
Free parking
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Access to Wifi
Sauna
Bar
Ski parking
Open all year!
Amedia Ressurs Harstad
SLEEP IN THE WILDERNESS, CLOSE TO AN URBAN CITY LIFE
si ttr om s Ti lle r © vi P ho to : Tr ul
so .n o
Welcome to Tromsø, the gateway to your Arctic experiences! We offer a wide range of Northern Lights excursions, responding to different travel needs. Some visitors might prefer to travel in smaller groups; others would appreciate good comfort or would like to see the Aurora from a boat. Combine your Northern Lights excursion with a wide range of exciting daytime experiences such as dogsledding, whale watching, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and sami experiences. Book your activities online at visittromso.no or pay a visit to Tromsø Tourist Information Office for booking.
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Experience the Tromsø Region, Winter 2015-2016 (5th issue) Publisher Markedskompetanse Nord AS (post@mknord.no) Editor John A. Angelsen (jangelsen@gmail.com) Contributing authors Hans Olav Eriksen, Jan-Are K. Johnsen, Ruth Norstrøm, Tor Petter W. Christensen, and John A. Angelsen, Ron Røstad, Johnny Hansen, Halvar Ellingsen, Thor A. Angelsen, Inger Storli. Design/layout John A. Angelsen/ Thor A. Angelsen/ Ruth Norstrøm Marketing & advertising Hans Olav Eriksen (hoeriksen@hotmail.com) Ruth Norstrøm (ruthnorstroem@gmail.no) Distribution This is a free magazine, published in November 2015. The magazine can also be downloaded as a PDF file at www.lyngsfjord.com Circulation 15,000 printed copies + downloadable PDF file. Print Lundblad (www.lundblad.no) English translation Gavin Tanguay (www.gavint-oversetting.no) Chris Barlow (chris@chrisbarlow. no) Photo Marius Fiskum (mariusfiskum.no), Ole Salomonsen (arcticlightphoto. no), Sweet Films (sweetfilms.no) Cover photo Ole Salomonsen (arcticlightlightphoto.no) 6
TROMSØ – The Arctic Gateway There’s something special about Tromsø. Although located at the same latitude as Siberia and Alaska, it has a mild climate and rich fauna due to the warm currents of the Gulf Stream. By coincidence, the city is located in the centre of the Northern Lights oval, the background for the term The Aurora Heartland! Of all the natural phenomena, perhaps the Northern Lights (aurora borealis) are the most fascinating. When the night sky fills with green rays of light in a calm or wild and magical dance, which feels close enough to touch yet so infinitely distant, you quickly lose the sense of time and place and are dragged towards a moment of infinity. Such an experience is something you remember for the rest of your life. That ’s why many people dream of seeing the Northern Lights at least once in their lifetime. The city has an international touch, with a well-known university, an excellent scientific environment, a number of festivals and cultural events, and the highest concentration of bars per capita in Norway. As Tromsø is situated on the brink of the Arctic wilderness, it is also the base for a large number of activities and excursions.
Director of Tourism Trond Øverås
The Tromsø region is virtually a concentrated version of Norway with a dramatic landscape that you won’t find anywhere else in Europe. There are several wonderful areas to explore within a short distance of Tromsø, such as the Lyngen Alps with 1800m high mountains dropping vertically into the deep fjords, the wilderness area in the Tamok valley, the enormous Lapland tundra stretching all the way to the depths of Russia, the magical island of Senja, the fascinating white beaches on the outer coast and the picturesque fjord of Malangen. Enjoy your stay in the capital of the Arctic: a city that ’s vibrant, modern and welcoming.
TAXI
THIS MAGAZINE
CAR RENTAL
TIMETABLE
24/7
PAGE 6
TROMSØ CITY PAGE 2
DOG SLEDDING
PAGE 8
PAGE 3
PAGE 10
PAGE 14
TROMSØ HISTORY BOOK & PAY
SAMI CULTURE
SNOWMOBILE
PAGE 15
PAGE 16
PAGE 28
PAGE 22
TROMSØ ARCHITECTURE
REINDEER SLEDDING PAGE 30
CITY MAP
PAGE 40
REAL STARDUST PAGE 34
TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER
ARCTIC DISHES PAGE 46
PAGE 44
USEFUL WEBSITES
OTHERE’S JOURNEY PAGE 57
SHOPPING
NIGHT LIFE
CAFÉ
PAGE 62
PAGE 54
PAGE 64
PAGE 68
PAGE 70
MALANGEN POLAR HEROES
PAGE 76
DRINKING CULTURE PAGE 92
THE REGION
WHALES PAGE 80
ARCTIC PHOTO PAGE 96
PAGE 82
CAMP TAMOK PAGE 102
PAGE 86
ADVENTURE
PROGRAMMES PAGE 104 7
The Outpost of View of Tromsø from a nearby mountain. The photo is taken from the destination of the city cable car.
This is the end of civilisation, and the beginning of the largest uninhabited wilderness area in Europe.
The Tromsø municipality has a population of around 70,000, approximately 60,000 of whom live in or nearby the city of Tromsø. Tromsø is by far the largest city in Northern Norway, and is also the largest Nordic city north of the Arctic Circle. Tromsø has its own university and brewery. No other universities or breweries in the world are located this far north. The city is surrounded by hundreds of islands, dramatic mountains and deep fjords, and is only a two-hour flight from Oslo, the Norwegian capital.
A VARIETY OF ACTIVITIES
Tromsø City 8
The university provides many opportunities for
scientists from all over the world, studying the Northern Lights, the Arctic environment, fisheries, climate change, oil resources in the ocean, and many other topics. As a result of this activity, there are several museums dedicated to the Arctic life and nature, as well as an Arctic experience centre and aquarium. Tromsø, the Gateway to the Arctic, was founded in 1794, and from 1850 the town was central in fisheries and other marine-based activity. In the early 20th century, the town was also the starting point for several famous expeditions in the Arctic waters and in the race to be the first person on the North Pole.
FLOURISHING TOWN
The activity a century ago led to a flourishing cultural life. The finer ladies in Tromsø could afford to wear the latest fashions from Paris and other cultural centres in Europe. In the Nordic countries this gave Tromsø the nickname “Paris of the North”. The growing population and
This statue of a traditional whaler stands in the main square. Photo: Hurtigruten ASA
status as an Arctic capital, with a lasting boom in the cultural life, has maintained this image to this day. Tromsø has its own professional theatre, an international film festival, and many other festivals, concerts, and events throughout the year. Taking into consideration the size of the city, the nightlife in
Civilisation The Tromsø Cathedral is a wooden church dating from 1861. It is located on the main street. Photo: Hurtigruten ASA/ Karlheinz Arnau
Classic colours of the Norwegian wooden houses. Photo: Hurtigruten ASA/Nicole Tessier
the many restaurants and bars is extraordinary. You will find restaurants serving everything from sushi to traditional Norwegian dishes.
CLIMATE AND SCENERY
Although located so far north, Tromsø has a mild maritime climate. The city ’s record low tem-
perature is -18 ºC, which is not that cold considering the latitude. In the short summer, you can experience temperatures up to +28 ºC. In winter the record snow depth is 2.4 metres. The Midnight Sun is visible from May 21 until July 21, and the Polar Night stretches from November 21 until January 21.
During this period, the sun does not rise above the horizon. Tromsø is where civilization meets the wild and enormous Arctic environment. You can take the cable car up to a mountain more than 400 metres above sea level and admire the panoramic view of the islands and high mountains surrounding the city.
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BE A
Musher
Say hello to a bunch of eager huskies that are ready for action.
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1. Keep both hands on the sled at all times.
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2. Brake by using
3. Assist the dogs when going
your feet.
uphill.
4. In sloping terrain, stand on the top ski.
DOG SLEDDING The dog sledding adventure starts with meeting the dogs and preparing for the trip. You will receive instructions on how to drive a dog team. You then drive the dog sled on your own into the white landscapes, through the beautiful Vass Valley, a side valley connected to the great Tamok Valley. You will at first see Camp Tamok on your way out in the wild. The trails you follow have a total distance of approximately 15 km. The area where you lead the sled is totally uninhabited, with a landscape of mountains and forest. Out in the wilderness, these dogs are in their right environment.
You will drive in pairs, one driver and one passenger on each sled, with opportunity to switch places half way. After the adventure, you will return to Camp Tamok and a hot meal will be served in our heated lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent). INCLUDED ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given
5. Passengers: Keep your arms and legs inside the sled at all times.
DOG SLEDDING Season:
November 15 – March 31
Departure daytime: 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 16:00 Departure evening: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:
4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total
Price: NOK 1695 children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 13
lyngsfjord.com
WINTER ADVENTURES
Timetable Tromsø City
24/7
Camp Tamok
09:00
10:15
16:00
14:45
Departure
Arrival
DAYTIME ADVENTURES Dog sledding Snowmobile safari Reindeer sledding
MID DAY BREAK Camp stay
17:00
18:15
24:00
22:45
Departure
Arrival
Please show up at the bus 10 minutes before the scheduled departure time. The bus departs at the exact time to ensure full value of your day. 14
EVENING ADVENTURES Dog sledding Snowmobile Reindeer sledding Northern Lights visit
OVERNIGHT Sami tent Timber cabin Aurora chalet Note that there is no transfer back to 10:15 * Tromsø City following the overnight
stay. Spending the night in camp requires that you have booked both an evening excursion before the overnight stay and a daytime excursion after the overnight stay.
Book and Pay Online Simply visit our website and choose from the different excursions and programmes on your chosen date. After booking your adventures, you progress to the next step; payment. All transactions go through Epay, a global system for secure payments on-
line. You do not need to create an account, and Epay accepts all major credit cards. If you still run into any kind of problem, contact us by email or phone, and we will assist you. You can read more about terms and conditions on our website. Note that the excursions need to be prepaid for your booking to be confirmed, as it is not possible to pay at the wilderness camp.
If you are already in Tromsø and want to book and pay, please e-mail or call us first to check availability. Be aware that some excursions might be fully booked during the peak season (December to February). After talking with our staff, you may visit our website via your smart phone, laptop or simply by using a computer at your hotel reception. 15
A Stroll Through the Tromsø is a metropolis by name, if not by fact, a place that has grown from being a tiny village into a small “big city” with a population rapidly approaching 100,000.
The population was only 80 in 1794 when the king in Copenhagen granted a town charter to the small settlement on the island of Tromsøya. Around 221 years later, the population is approaching 75,000 and growing rapidly. Tromsø is a metropolis in name because ever since the mid 19th century the town has had a nickname that brings to mind the big metropolises of the world. “Paris of the North” was in fact a name Tromsø inherited because its residents – and primarily the women – always dressed in the latest fashion. Yes, the women of Tromsø dressed like many of the women of Paris dressed. That was due to fact that the latest fashions quickly came to Tromsø by the mode of transport of the day – boats - transporting fish products from our latitudes and to continental Europe.
FRENCH PAVEMENTS
It was not only in the area of women’s fashion that inspiration from Paris rubbed off on the locals of Tromsø. It also became quite common to use French terms in everyday language. In Tromsø, the Norwegian equivalent of pavement was never used. Instead, the paved areas beside the streets were called trottoir, just like Frenchmen described the pavements of Paris. When Tromsø got two breakwaters to protect the inner harbour from strong currents and strong winds on harsh autumn and winter days, they were not referred to by the Norwegian name. No, they got the French name jetee, which is still used to this day.
Tromsø History 16
The latest fashions from Paris. The upper class and working class walked on opposite sides of Storgata.
ARCTIC COUNCIL
In recent years, Tromsø has become an important city internationally. In 2013 Tromsø was chosen as the permanent secretariat for the Arctic Council. This is an intergovernmental forum among Arctic countries promoting cooperation and coordination on common Arctic issues, in particular in relation to sustainable development and environmental protection.
The member countries of the Arctic Council are Canada, Denmark including the Faroe Islands and Greenland, Finland, Iceland, Russia, USA, Sweden and Norway. In other words, Tromsø is not only the capital of Northern Norway, but also the capital of the Arctic. This council secretariat is housed in the Fram Centre, and this is a natural starting point for a city walk through Tromsø.
e Paris of the North
Polaria
Polstjerna
In addition to its unique architecture, the content of Polaria is of interest to the residents of Tromsø and the hundreds of thousands who visit Tromsø each year. Seals swim round in their own pool and there are aquariums containing fish species from the northern latitudes. Many have asked how the building ended up with its unique design. The answer is easier than you may think. The architect sat in his office one afternoon playing with a marker pen in search of an idea to create a building that illustrated the activity inside as well as one that the residents of Tromsø would develop a positive attitude towards. His pen suddenly stopped working. The architect fiddled with his pen to try to get it to work again. When he looked at the paper, he suddenly discovered that the lines he had drawn resembled the pack ice, which is a well known phenomenon in the Arctic. Aha, thought the architect. That was an idea he could develop further.
This sealing vessel served a total of 33 seasons in the West Ice and East Ice in the Arctic. Apparently more than 100,000 seals were caught from the vessel, which constituted an important part of the Arctic industry that at one stage was of great significance to Tromsø. A memorial to Helmer Hanssen, Tromsø’s polar explorer who was Roald Amundsen’s right hand man on all Amundsen’s expeditions, has been erected adjacent to this building. These expeditions included the conquering of the Northwest Passage, the South Pole and their attempt to reach the North Pole aboard Maud. The memorial was unveiled on 14 December 2011, 100 years to the day that Roald Amundsen and his crew reached the South Pole.
The Fram Centre and adjacent Arctic experience centre Polaria were both completed just before the turn of the millennium.
The famous author Cora Sandel in the latest French fashion.
A glass building housing the historic Arctic vessel Polstjerna stands right next door to Polaria.
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Baker turned Brewer If you continue northwards along Storgata, it won’t take you long to reach what until a few years ago was the world’s northernmost brewery. Mack’s Brewery produced beer and soft drinks in huge quantities on this site from the brewery ’s establishment in 1877 up to 2013 when production was moved to the neighbouring municipality Balsfjord. The brewery premises remain as they have since the late 19th century. Over the past couple of years, the former brewery has hosted the World Chess Olympiad in 2014 and European Bridge Championship in 2015. All the matches in both events were overseen by the man who established Mack’s Brewery in 1877, Ludwig Mack, whose bust adorns the building ’s exterior.
TRAINED AS A BAKER
His family originated from Germany but moved to Tromsø in the mid 19th century and started a bakery. Ludwig Mack was to overtake his father ’s bakery, so he returned to Germany to train as a baker and confectioner. However, while back in Germany, he dreamt of establishing his own brewery. He was aged just 35 on 17 May 1878 when he realized his dream and the first bottles of Bayer beer were produced. His brewing business, which still produces beer to this day, was underway.
EMPLOYED 320 PEOPLE
For a long time, the brewery was a major employer in Tromsø. In the late 1980s, around 320 people were employed
Tromsø History 18
Ludwig Mack outside his brewery in Storgata.
at the brewery and adjacent pub Ølhallen (The Beer Hall), which has been very popular since it opened its doors on the Leap Day in 1928.
DRANK HAIR TONIC
Ludwig Mack had actually tried many years earlier to get permission to open an indoor taproom, but the temperance movement in Tromsø was very strong so he failed to get the required permission. However, his successor as director, son-in-law Lauritz Bredrup, eventually succeeded. He visited every councillor at their home in an attempt to persuade them to let him open an indoor taproom. That didn’t help the first time he tried in 1924 despite the fact
that there were no controls on drinking outdoors. Some local gangs known as the ”Denna gangs2 often sat outside and drank what was locally referred to as denna. This was a mixture of denatured alcohol and Salicylic acid, a fat-free hair tonic. Needless to say, the consumption of such beverages created uncontrolled situations, but this was insufficient to convince the temperance movement. They didn’t believe that permitting the brewery to open an indoor taproom would change the outdoor drinking pattern. But Lauritz Bredrup didn’t give up. He repeated his round of visits to the local politicians in 1927. On this occasion he was successful and Ølhallen became a reality.
Amundsen’s Last Stay Continuing north along Storgata, it is natural to stop outside the house at Storgata 42. This was the house in which polar explorer Roald Amundsen slept for the last time.
Amundsen arrived in Tromsø in the early hours of 18 June 1928 on the flying boat Latham. He was en route to the polar ice to search for Italian Umberto Nobile, whose airship Italia had disappeared after flying over the North Pole. Italia had crashed and an organised search began on a scale the world had scarcely seen before. Amundsen, who was commander of the airship Norge that flew over the North Pole in 1926 with Umberto Nobile at the controls, wanted to participate in the search. Amundsen’s good friend, pharmacist Fritz G. Zapffe, lived and worked at Storgata 42. Whenever Amundsen was in Tromsø, he always stayed with Zapffe. He even had his own room, which was later called the Amundsen room.
SUPPORTED BY MUSSOLINI
Amundsen slept here for a few hours before he and his FrenchNorwegian crew departed on Latham to search for Nobile. The Italian had embarked on his expedition with the airship Italia because he and Italian dictator Benito Mussolini believed that Italy had received too little attention for their role
Storgata 42.
with the Norge expedition a few years earlier. That was the reason why Nobile built his own airship, christened as Italia and embarked on his adventurous expedition.
CRASHED
As history shows, Amundsen was unsuccessful in his attempt to find Nobile. Instead, his airship Latham crashed somewhere between the Norwegian mainland and the island of Bjørnøya. The only wreckage ever found was a float, which demonstrably was from Latham.
A stamp honours Roald Amundsen´s contribution to aviation history. Pictured: The ”Latham”.
Zapffe celebrates after climbing up the church spire.
Zapffe’s Clim b
Zapffe’s son, Peter Wessel Zapffe, also lived at Storgata 42.
Zapffe junior was lawyer, philosopher and author. He was also a fearless mountaineer. In the mid 1930s he worked as a lawyer at the office of the urban district court judge. He suddenly became bored with legal papers, went to the Tromsø Cathedral and decided to climb to the top of the church tower. People who witnessed this man climbing up the steep church tower – without any form of safety measures – were shocked, to put it mildly. Nevertheless, Zapffe reached the top with minimal effort and clung on while the city ’s photographer preserved it all for posterity. In so doing, he secured evidence that Zapffe had actually climbed up the virtually impregnable church spire. Throughout the more than 150-year history of the Tromsø Cathedral, Peter Wessel Zapffe is the only person to perform this dangerous stunt.
Continues on page 20 >>> 19
Gestapo alley Another house associated with several historical events is located on the northern side of the cathedral.
The house at Bankgata 13 was built in 1880 by the whaler Johannes Giæver and was the first residential building in Tromsø built of stone. Another reason why it ’s unique is that the famous writer Cora Sandel lived here during her childhood. During World War II the Gestapo took over the house and used it as a venue to torture people suspected of fighting against the interests of the occupying power Germany.
REPORTED ON THE TIRPITZ
One of the people linked to this house was Norwegian resistance
Tromsø History 20
fighter Karl Rasmussen. He had been involved in sending messages from Alta to London about the German battleship Tirpitz, which lay damaged in the Kåfjord near Alta.
HEROIC DEED
After his arrest, Rasmussen was taken to Tromsø for very tough questioning inside this house. During a break in the questioning, he jumped out of a window on the second floor of the house and took his own life instead of divulging secrets to the Germans about his resistance comrades. This heroic deed is one of the reasons why every morning on 17 May, Norway ’s national day, the scout parade stops briefly outside Bankgata 13 to lay a wreath to commemorate the victims of the Gestapo during World War II.
Rocket kiosk
If we continue walking northwards along Storgata, we reach a tiny building that has characterized the town square since 1911. It is the small Løkkekiosken (the Løkke kiosk), which in recent years has been called Rakettkiosken (the rocket kiosk), apparently because it looks like a rocket. The kiosk was built by an 18-year-old woman named Margit Løkke - hence the name Løkke kiosk. It has survived for more than a century, including the big city fire in the spring of 1969 that engulfed several blocks with flames. Despite being in the midst of a sea of flames, the tiny kiosk survived. It is now the centre of a major music festival called RakettNatt (rocket night) in honour of the tiny rocket kiosk.
Skansen
The last stop on our city walk is Skansen, which is the place in Tromsø with the longest history.
Verdensteateret
If you continue slightly further along Storgata, it’s natural to stop at Northern Europe’s oldest cinema in continuous operation. It ’s called Verdensteatret (the theatre of the world), and 2015 marks the 100th anniversary of the building of the cinema building. The first movie screened at the historic cinema was Sons of Destiny on 4 June 1916. Ever since, films starring the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and many, many more have entertained the residents of Tromsø, who have always filled this cinema regardless of whether war dramas or films about love and romance were screening.
The history of Skansen stretches right back to 1000 AD or perhaps even further back. Skansen was originally a medieval fortification designed to defend the people and buildings of the time. No one knows with any certainty who built the fortification, but one cannot discount Olav Haraldsson, who was king of Norway between 1015 and 1030. Modern day excavations show that the fortress was surrounded by a 4-5 m wide moat, which in all likelihood was filled with water.
stands to this day and is simply referred to as Skansen. Construction began in 1789 and was completed in 1793 – the year before Tromsø received its town charter. It is considered to be Tromsø’s oldest building. As well as serving as a Customs house, it has been a school building, nursing home and city museum. The building is the City of Tromsø’s residence for entertaining and was also chosen as Tromsø’s millennium site.
This article is written by Johnny Hansen. In addition to a long career as an author, Hansen has been executive editor of the largest and oldest newspapers in the Tromsø region, iTromsø and Nordlys, for a total of 20 years. Hansen is considered to be one of the leading authorities on Tromsø’s modern history.
CULTURAL RELIC
This building caught fire in the winter of 2003 but, owing to the tenacious efforts of the fire fighters, the building was saved. It was later restored and is still a magnificent building. Skansen is considered THE OLDEST BUILDING to be the best preserved In 1787, the Customs fortified place in Northern Service established itself Europe. It ’s a unique culin Tromsø, and Skansen tural monument in the city was chosen as the obvious place as it offered the centre. If you look a little Customs officers an excel- behind the facades, you lent view of the strait. One will soon discover that it is a museum in its own right. of the first constructions was a building that still
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INTO
The White
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Camp Tamok is the starting point for a breathtaking adventure in the driver’s seat of a snowmobile. 23
1. The throttle lever is on the right-hand side, operated by your thumb.
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2. The break handle is located on your left-hand side.
3. Keep your feet and legs inside the protective metal skirts at all times.
4. Lean to the right when making a right turn, and lean to the left when making a left turn.
SNOWMOBILE SAFARI
No previous skills are required to drive a snowmobile. All you need is a regular driving licence, and it is just as easy as it is fun. The trail is 15 km each way, 30 km in total. The starting point is at an altitude of 250 m above sea level, and the guide brings you up to an elevation of 875 m. Imagine the views you will have during this snowmobile trip. We begin with a thorough safety introduction. You will drive in pairs, one driver and one passenger on each snowmobile, with opportunity to switch places during the trip. Due to the dramatic topography, a reduced speed is held during parts of the tour. On flat land and frozen lakes, you can speed up. The top point of the trail is a frozen lake. If time and weather
permit, you can try ice fishing on this lake. The second half of the excursion brings you back down again, ending up at Camp Tamok, our wilderness camp, where you will be served a hot meal in our lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent). INCLUDED ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Helmet ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given
5. If you feel insecure, just let go of the throttle and hand break. The snowmobile will then gently slow down. SNOWMOBILE SAFARI Season:
November 15 – March 31
Departure daytime: 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 16:00 Departure evening: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:
4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total
Price: NOK 1695 children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 25
CLOTHES INSPIRED BY URBAN NORWEGIAN EVERYDAY LIVING 26
Moods of Norway store Storgata 46 (See map in centrefold) Tromsø www.moodsofnorway.com
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A Sami family poses by a lavvu 100 years ago.
People of the North The Sami history and ancient religion are full of tales and mysteries A long time before any national borders existed, the Sami people of Arctic Europe lived in a wide area that stretches over the regions now known as the northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Russian Kola Peninsula. This area is internationally best known as Lapland, but the Sami people of Norway call their area Sapmi.
LARGEST POPULATION
SAMI
Norway is the country with the largest population of Sami people, around 40,000. In the village of Karasjok in Northern Norway, the Sami people have their own parliament, working to represent the Sami population, and to protect and promote their unique culture. The Sami flag
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Culture
has a circle as symbol for the sun (red) and the moon (blue). These colours may also be found in the characteristic detailed embroidery on the traditional Sami clothing. Most of all the Sami people are known for their free semi-nomadic mountain lives, constantly moving reindeer flocks between the summer grazing land by the coast and the Lapland tundra in the winter. There are about 100,000 reindeer in the Norwegian part of Lapland. The very tasty reindeer meat is considered to be healthy.
DUOJI
The clothing and traditional handicraft of the Sami people (known as duodji) shows that their society has always been very aesthetically oriented. Regular artefacts have been decorated and richly
The flag represents sami people in the Nordic countries and Russia.
ornamented. Duodji training used to be a natural part of the upbringing and from ancient times was known as a Sami specialty. In the old days, the Sami shamans (known as noaiddit) had a lot of respect in the area, also from other Norwegians. There are countless stories of shaman achievements, both in terms of clairvoyance and their abilities to use witchcraft.
Pictured is Sami man Roar AndrĂŠ Kemi Nyheim, who owns the reindeer used in the tourism activities at Camp Tamok for Lyngsfjord Adventure. Nyheim is renowned for his exciting stories, which he will gladly share with the guests around the open fire at Camp Tamok. Photo: Sweet Films
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SAMI
Encounter
The reindeer’s majestic steps in their natural habitat, pull the sled through the snow. 30
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REINDEER SLEDDING Reindeer sledding is the oldest form of transport in the north, and an ancient part of Sami culture. The reindeer’s majestic steps in their natural habitat move the sled through the snow. The sledding trail crosses the Tamok Valley. You will drive in pairs, with one sled for each reindeer. People of all ages can participate on this very “soft” adventure. This cultural adventure includes trying lasso-throwing, the way the Sami people still catch their reindeers when they are rounded up for marking or slaughter. You will also visit a Sami lavvu (herdsmen’s tent) and you will learn about Sami culture and history with an introduction to traditional Sami handicraft. To conclude this excursion, you will be served a hot meal.
Daytime trips give you an amazing view of the wild mountains in the area, and evening trips in the period November - March will provide a good chance to experience the Northern Lights. INCLUDED ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given
REINDEER SLEDDING Season:
November 15 – March 31
Departure daytime: 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 16:00 Departure: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:
4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total
Price: NOK 1595 children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)
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Nature’s Light
It appears like a glowing light, constantly moving and changing its form, strength and colours. The sun, the moon and the stars belong to the everlasting and predictable in the universe. On the other hand, the majestic Northern Lights – or Aurora Borealis – are illusive, changing and unpredictable. The cosmos demonstrates electric and magnetic fields, showing unique
REAL
Stardust
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movement and colours. The Northern Lights is not something you may experience on the TV. To get the full experience, you need to escape the bright city light, so-called “light pollution”, and head somewhere dark. To improve the chance of Northern Lights sightings, you also need to avoid the coastline in order to find dry weather conditions. Camp Tamok, a 75-minute inland drive from Tromsø, provides the optimal conditions, as you can see on the photo beside.
WHAT IS IT? It is a phenomenon that occurs when the solar winds originating from the sun are more powerful than usual, sending charged particles towards the earth. The particles are electrons and protons, glowing when
t Show
colliding with the earth’s atmosphere. The Northern Lights occur at a height of more than 100 km above the ground, and may be observed in the night sky in a belt around the Magnetic North
Pole. It is often in a wave movement, sometimes filling the sky with blue, green, red and orange light. Aurora Polaris (polar light) is called Aurora Borealis in the northern hemisphere and Aurora Australis in the southern hemisphere.
SEASON FOR SIGHTINGS
The Northern Lights is present year-round, but may only be observed when it is dark. During summer in the far north, the sun never sets and
it is light around the clock. The mystical Northern Lights are visible again from September and on many clear evenings right up to the middle of April. From mid-April, the amount of darkness each day reduces sharply and from May 21 you can see the Midnight Sun in Tromsø. The contrasts are enormous in the Arctic.
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The Perfect Setting
Tromsø lies wedged between rugged mountains and the extensive mountain plateaus of Lapland. It’s a perfect setting for observing the Northern Lights. From beyond the large islands that surround Tromsø, polar storms come in off the high seas. Coastal weather patterns can change rapidly, varying from a snowstorm to a cloud-free sky, overcast and calm conditions to high winds and raging storms. Once inside the fjords, however, the weather becomes calmer and drier.
STABLE WEATHER
Beyond Tromsø and the innermost fjords, we find the mountain plateaus, which stretch far and wide and as far as Siberia. Here, the weather remains stable over long
REAL
Stardust
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periods. With a short distance into the fjords as well as to the more unstable weather on the coast, if you have Tromsø as your base you will almost always be able to see the Northern Lights. The best places and conditions are normally found deep in the fjords, but if it clouds over then it’s just a quick change of location with a short trip towards the coast. Tromsø lies on the exact latitude that statistically is perfect for observing the Northern Lights. If, for example, you were on the same longitude as Finland, which lies further south, you would have to travel to the northernmost part of Finnmark, the northernmost county of Norway, to see the lights.
CHANGABLE WEATHER
The Northern Lights appear each and every night, but solar activity and atmospheric conditions determine whether or not they are visible to the naked eye. Changeable, local conditions within the same region provide better opportunities to see the Northern Lights. If there is something the locals in Tromsø are used to, it’s the changeable weather.
IDEAL LOCATION
There is one place within driving distance of Tromsø that enjoys particularly favourable conditions for viewing the Northern Lights. Analysis of the records dating back to 1981 shows there is an 18% chance that the weather in Skibotn will be
perfect for seeing the lights. No other location has more than 6% chance for perfect conditions. It has been shown that Skibotn enjoys the best conditions throughout Scandinavia. It must be an interaction in and around the mountainous landscape that draws the moisture out of the air. It causes a so-called `dry rain shadow Ě . Camp Tamok in Tamokdalen, where Lyngsfjord Adventure is based, has similar weather conditions to Skibotn.
A BETTER CHANCE
The Northern Lights Observatory has looked at several areas in Scandinavia to find out which provides the best chance of experiencing the Northern Lights. The conditions are fairly similar. Weather conditions are similar from one place to another in northern Finland and the interior of Finnmark County. This provides a lower statistical chance of seeing the lights as the weather is often
the same throughout the region. Consequently, the Northern Lights guides in Tromsø have a better chance of finding the lights than their contemporaries in other areas. They can drive towards the drier Norwegian fjords, up towards the mountain plateaus or in the opposite direction towards the coast, depending on where the most favourable conditions are at that exact time.
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NORTHERN LIGHTS VISIT The Northern Lights visit at our wilderness camp is an excursion with the main purpose of watching the Northern Lights - Aurora Borealis. Camp Tamok is located a 75-minute drive inland from the centre of the coastal city of Tromsø. The camp is therefore located in a different climate zone. Here, you find stable dry weather with many days of clear sky. Due to the stable climate of this location, the persistent Aurora watcher will have excellent chances of spotting the frail rays of this majestic beauty. As this is an uninhabited area, no artificial light will disturb your experience as you attempt to capture the Aurora Borealis with your camera. During the visit you will be served a hot meal and enjoy a social time around the open fire in the big
lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent). If the sky is cloudy or there is no sign of the Northern Lights, you will still have good value for money. A trip to the wilderness camp is an adventure in itself. The dark and quiet surroundings, a genuine Arctic atmosphere. INCLUDED: ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ A hot meal ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ English-speaking guide ■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Norther Lights RECOMMENDED: ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given
NORTHERN LIGHTS VISIT Season: November 15 – March 31 Departure: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:
4.5 hours + transport, 7 hours total
Price: NOK 995 children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)
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PARIS OF THE NORTH
SCANDIC ISHAVSHOTEL! The hotel is centrally located in Tromsø, also known as the Paris of the North. It has a unique location on the quay, with magnificent views of the harbor, Arctic Cathedral and the surrounding mountains.
Tel: +47 77 66 64 00 | www.scandichotels.com | ishavshotel@scandichotels.com
ISHAVSHOTEL
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An Architectura Perhaps the first thing you will notice in Tromsø is the wooden houses.
In contrast to many other towns in North Norway, Tromsø was not destroyed during the war. It was not only the working class who lived in these wooden houses. Up to the start of last century, monumental buildings were often built of wood. This is modelled on big cities, and in downtown Tromsø you can find traces of Moscow, Athens, Amsterdam, Istanbul, Italy, Bergen and Tokyo. Even the small sausage kiosk on the main market square complete with its onion dome was based on similar buildings overseas. However, despite the attempt to be international, when you wander in Tromsø you will not think for a second that you are actually in Vienna or Paris. In an effort to create a more unique local identity, some buildings have been inspired by nature, such as the Arctic Cathedral with its ice-like, white facade. The Arctic experience centre Polaria and the hotel The Edge also have ice and the cold as themes. While this may be cool, you can also ask yourself if we have enough ice and cold as it is.
HAPPY AMATURES
The do-it-yourself builder has left their mark on Tromsø. There are many solutions that are clearly built by happy amateurs. This is particularly visible in residential areas, where you can see creative solutions for stairs, balconies or extensions. While some may think this is ugly, it has become part of our cultural heritage. The climate means that you think practically
Tromsø Architecture 40
rather than aesthetically. The city has its fair share of non-aesthetic, but practical solutions, which has led to Tromsø having a reputation as an ugly and chaotic city. Ugly or not, once you are here take a look at the buildings that we have built, which we live and work in. In Tromsø, it ’s not so common to draw the curtains at night. Feel free to take a discreet peek into our homes because one thing is certain, in Tromsø the inside of the houses is more important than the outside. It ’s inside the houses that we spend the most time, and this is where we really put our pride into making it nice.
DOWNING STREET?
As you stroll along, it ’s worth taking a closer look at the doors of the old wooden houses. They are often painstakingly made and inspired by antiquity, as was often the case elsewhere in the world at that time. Sjøgata 10 is a good example. This door has columns carved in the wood and you can see a certain resemblance to the front door of a famous number 10, namely Number 10 Downing Street.
From Cinema to Library When Focus cinema opened in 1973, it was a modern and funky building. Nevertheless, this large cinema rapidly became outdated. In 2003 the entire old cinema building was demolished apart from its characteristic roof. A new library was built under the roof, and this new library is well worth a visit. You can warm up while enjoying a nice view of the city. If you visit the small bar Perez in the north of the city centre, you can sit on the old cinema seats.
First Line of Defence
The history of Tromsø dates back to the 13th century when a church and a fortress were established here. The fortress was originally situated on an islet with a clear view of the strait. In all likelihood, the fortress was surrounded by a palisade. Today, the fortress is not quite as impressive. There are no towers and walls, but there is a circular earth wall. Modest or not, this was Norway ’s first line of defence against a possible attack from Novgorod. It ’s fair to say that Skansen was the Western European civilisation’s absolute outpost in the north and east and the beginning of 800 years (so far unfounded) of fear of Russian aggression.
l Mix What Tromsø was like
A Square to Warm up in
Tromsø is a region that is rich in food. If you visit Kystens Hus (The Coastal House), you can buy fish, meat and other products from traditional, local producers or enjoy local food in the restaurant. The big stairs in the middle of the building provide visitors the opportunity to sit down and watch life go by without freezing or sitting at a café. The architecture is controversial. Some think the black facades are sad, while others perceive it as a stylish, modern building. The Coastal House unites two things that are important to Tromsø: fish and controversial architecture.
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Unlike Stockholm or Tallinn, Tromsø does not have an Old Town. Actually, all of downtown Tromsø is an old town. The oldest houses, which are up to 200 years old, are spread fairly evenly across the entire city. At the northern end of the city centre, you will find an area that is characterized by modern architecture to a lesser extent than otherwise. You will also find a street that is built on the model of Tromso in the 19th century. Several older wooden houses have been moved to this area and the street has streetlights that resemble the earliest electric street lights. The street is “macadamised” and not asphalted. The pavement, or trottoir as it was called in Tromsø in the old days, consists of slate slabs and the gutter is made of cobblestones.
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Debate about High-rise Buildings
Building a high-rise hotel on this site has been planned since the early 1990s, but the height was so controversial that for a long time the municipal council opposed it. Every time high-rise buildings are proposed, it triggers debate. However, high-rise buildings have one undisputed advantage: the view from the top. A visit to the hotel’s Sky bar is recommended.
Oldest Street
Sjøgata is the oldest street in Tromsø and Northern Norway. This was the main street in Tromsø until Storgata took over in the late 19th century. Many of the buildings were destroyed during the big fire in 1969, but thankfully some were preserved.
Tromsø Architecture 42
Plush Town
If you wander in the streets slightly above the city centre, you will find the so-called “plush town”. In the late 19th century, the privileged residents built their summer residences here. It was a never-ending party during the brief but bright summers. It was not uncommon for the people here to go from house to house looking for a party without giving a thought to the time. Someone was always awake. In time, these houses became permanent residences year-round, but to this day this is considered a better part of town.
This article is written by a copywriter and architectural journalist Ron Røstad. He has written numerous articles on urban development in Tromsø. You can read more on his blog: ronrostad. wordpress.com
Iconic Cathedral
Fire Break
The broad axis from the main market square, Stortorget, up to Tromsø’s old city hall, Rådstua, is monumental but it was not built to impress. It was designed to serve as a “fire break” to prevent any fires from spreading. Branngata (Fire Street) served its intended purpose in 1968 when the block south of Stortoget was completely destroyed by fire, but the fire did not spread to the other side of the square.
The term icon is over used, but when it comes to a building like the Arctic Cathedral, or Tromsdalen Church as it is more correctly called, the term is justified. The building is so recognizable that it ’s possible to draw the church with just five lines. It ’s a hieroglyph meaning Tromsø in the same way that the Eiffel Tower means Paris. The church becomes even more powerful when combined with the Tromsø Bridge. The bridge leading “into” the church is charged with symbolism. The architect, Jan Inge Hovig, designed many important public buildings in Northern Norway in the decades after the war. When Hovig studied architecture, he was in the same class as Jorn Utzon, who designed the Sydney Opera House. Maybe the church is inspired by the opera house?
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GO
Airborne
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TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER
Lyngsfjord Adventure offers the Tromsø city guiding by helicopter: a private tour around the island of Tromsø, crossing the mountain Tromsdalstind (1238 m / 4042 ft above sea level) . You will first get safety instructions, before heading off for the round-trip (duration 15-20 min). From the helicopter you will get a magnificent view of all of Tromsø city, and be given a taste of the Lyngen Alps. During the tour,
you will receive guding about attractions, history of the city, landmarks and imporant bulidings. INCLUDED: ■ English-speaking guide ■ Tour by heilcopter ■ Safety instructions ■ Transfer from the Ishavshotel by the quayside in downtown Tromsø and back after the tour
TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER Season: November 15 – March 31 Departure: Departures on the hour 11:00 - 16:00 from downtown Tromsø (The Ishavshotel). Duration: 1 hour included transportation Price: NOK 1395 children 4-15 years: 50% discount Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 45
With its superbl y firm white meat, this giant of the sea ranks among the most impressive and exquisite shellfish you can ser ve.
King Crab
Arctic Dishes
Produce grown in the Arctic develops a unique taste. This may be attributed to several reasons: sun around the clock, a cold climate and a lack of pollution.
Arctic produce has always been highly sought after. Some of our produce is renowned far beyond the countr y’s borders, while others are virtually unknown and are ready for a larger audience. Here are a few details about some of the best known:
Lamb
The lambs are released onto the pastures in June and the North
Norwegian fishermen, 1911.
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Norwegian summer, which is rarely too hot, provides an abundance of food and nourishing herbs. Sheep and lamb are a bit fussy about their diet, but find many of their favourite foods in the Arctic regions. They enjoy a varied diet and often wander from mountain peak down to the seashore, which we have a lot of. This generates ver y fit lambs with plenty of marbled fat and lots of flavour. You can almost taste the North Norwegian nature when you eat the lamb. They wander in the g reat outdoors almost from their birth until they are slaughtered and they consume minimal quantities of g rain feed. Since it is impossible to find better g ro-
wing condition, lamb from the Arctic is among the ver y best in the world.
King crab
For a long time, there was major debate about whether the king crab was actually welcome along the Norwegian coast. One thing that is not up for debate is that it is a fresh ing redient from the ver y top shelf. The king crab is a versatile ing redient that can be prepared in a variety of ways. It is on a par with Norway lobster and the European lobster. Its legs are crammed full of delicious, juicy meat without a lot of
The moose is Norway’s largest wild deer species. There is little commercial sale of moose meat, but the moose hunting season each autumn generates large revenues. Moose meat is lean and the taste varies according to the animal’s diet.
Pan roast of cod loin Ing redients (4 ser vings) 4 loins Norwegian cod fillets 1 kg potato, new 400 g g reen beans 1 lemon 4 cloves garlic 10 leaves sage 4 tbsp olive oil Pe pper, fresh cracked salt
Procedure
Moose
1. Preheat oven to 200*C 2. In large roasting tin, toss pota-
toes in olive oil and sage. Squeeze in lemon juice, tuck in the lemon skins and garlic cloves.
The Old Norwegian is a primitive and extremel y old species of shee p. The y are descendents of shee p that have existed in Norway for more than 3000 years. Combined with other shee p species , the Old Norwegian is light-footed and fast and can g raze outside all year round.
3. Season with a little salt and pepper and roast in oven for 15 minutes.
4. Whilst potatoes roast, blanch green beans in a pan of boiling water for 3-4mins.
5. Drain well then toss through
the potatoes, ensure they are coated in oil.
6. Lay fish fillets on top and season bones and cartilage. As it has no enemies, the king crab has made its entr y along the entire North Norwegian coast and is thriving in our clean, unspoiled and cold waters.
Spawning cod
Cod is perhaps the main reason why people live in the Arctic. It has been the most important commodity since time immemorial, for e xport as well as domestic consumption. Cod – and in particular the spawning cod in winter – remains a ver y important part of the North Norwegian livelihood. When the cod (known as skrei in Norwegian) finally reach the coast in Januar y/Februar y after a long mig ration from the Barents Sea, it is in e xcellent physical condition and ready to spawn. Owing to the long mig ration, the loin is much thicker and the meat quality is far higher
than for other cod. It is packed full of flavour and has a wonderful te xture. The meat is as white as chalk and full of nutrients. The Arctic spawning cod is an ing redient that chefs worldwide recognize as something special. It is right up there with the likes of truffle, caviar and foie g ras. It’s a real luxur y product.
with a little more salt and pepper. Drizzle fish with a little olive oil and roast in oven for around 12 more minutes or until fish is opaque and cooked through (cooking time may vary depending on your fillet size).
7. Serve immediately, pouring over the delicious roasting juices.
Cod
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Cloudber r y The famous North Norwegian chef Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, partisipated on expedtitions with Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. Lindstrøm is the inventor of the dish ’steak á la Lindstrøm”.
During 2014 Norway’s exports of salmon and trout totalled NOK 46.2 billion. The average price for fresh whole salmon was NOK 41.06 per kilo, which re presented a 3.4% rise from the previous year.
Fish farm Halibut
Halibut is another fish with a long histor y in our Arctic region. It is also called hellefisk (translated as holy fish), which is derived from the Norse name heilag r fiskr. This indicates the status this fish has had throughout histor y. Rock art that is more than 10,000 years old has been found, which celebrates the halibut as a fish of the gods. Halibut was often eaten on special occasions and remains a luxur y item. Halibut can be ver y
large and it is not uncommon to catch halibut weighing well over 100 kg. The record for the largest halibut ever caught is 314.5 kg.
Shrimps
Shrimps from clean Arctic waters have plentiful access to food. As a result, the shrimps can g row big and fat and develop plenty of flavour. They almost taste a bit sweet. Shrimps can be eaten in the traditional manner with bread and mayonnaise or can be prepared in many different ways. Raw shrimps – shrimps that have not been boiled – have a sweet taste and can be perceived almost like fat on the palate. They are perfect for fr ying and ver y receptive to taste. Tr y shrimp in sushi or salad or perhaps in a wok dish.
Halibut 48
Cloudberries
These small orange flavour bombs g row almost e xclusively in the Arctic. They thrive best in marshlands, but can also g row in common heath. They have a sweet characteristic, intense flavour that is a little reminiscent of peaches, but a completely unique and distinctive taste that simply must be e xperienced. Cloudberries are quite susceptible to weather and frost can destroy an entire cloudberr y crop. It takes a long time for cloudberries to ripen and they are often not ready to pick until the late summer or early autumn.
Vegetables/potatoes
Not all vegetables are suited to g rowing in the Arctic, but the vegetables that do g row here develop an e xceptional flavour.
Stockfish
Steak à la Lindstrøm Ing redients
400 g mince 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pe pper 1 egg 100 ml milk 2 boiled potatoes (diced) 2 T finel y chopped onion 2 T finel y chopped pickled beetroot 2 T gherkin (chopped) 1 T ca pers 2 T butter or cooking oil for fr ying
This article is written by Halvar Ellingsen. He has been a regular member of the Norwegian Culinary Team since 2009. Inspite of his young age, Ellingsen has won several awards. Ellingsen works at the well reputed Palace Grill restaurant in Oslo.
Procedure
1.
Mix the mince with salt and pepper and stir in the milk and beaten egg.
2. Stir the potato, onion, beetroot, gherkin and capers into the mixture.
3. Form into eight high patties. Melt the
butter in a frying pan and fry the patties over moderate heat for 2-3 minutes on each side. Serve with fried potatoes, fried egg and pickled beetroot.
Slightly cool summers and slightly harsh growing conditions help the vegetables to develop far more flavour than vegetables that grow elsewhere. North of the Arctic Circle, we cultivate a wonderful potato called gulløye (literally translated as “yellow eye”). It has a delicate yellow flesh, a slightly floury texture and a strong potato flavour.
Reindeer Reindeer
If there is one ing redient that is truly Arctic then it has to be reindeer. Large areas with abundant food make the Arctic perfect for reindeer. The reindeer is well equipped to sur vive the cold and snow in the north and it has few enemies. Reindeer meat is lean and full of flavour. The meat is tender and can be cooked in a
host of ways, ranging from stews and barbecues to pan-fr ying as steak. These are but a few of the wonderful ingredients we have here. The excellent ingredients enable the chefs to create delicious dishes based on local ingredients.
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With the invaluable help of an experienced, enthusiastic and, not least, professional staff, and not forgetting the imaginary perfect hostess, Anne Brit Andreassen has established a highly renowned restaurant with a most welcoming atmosphere, Emmas Dream Kitchen. It is situated across the road from the beautiful cathedral in the centre of Tromsø, in Kirkegata 8. COMFORT AND COSY Dining at Emma´´s can be both intimate and formal but, above all, homely and relaxing. The perfectly prepared food is always tasty. Emma and the staff want to ensure that it will be a joy and a pleasure to dine at the Dream Kitchen. Generosity, care, love and consideration, together with extremely high expertise have been the main factors behind the restaurant’s success. They do their utmost to ensure their guests have a most enjoyable dining experience. GENUINE AND HONEST FOOD Emma is well versed in traditional french cuisine and also keeps abreast of the latest trends, fashions and culinary skills. She is always open to good ideas from kitchens around the world but,above all, she appreciates, as they say in the north, ’real food’; well prepared local produce, just like our mothers and their mothers before them used to make. Boknafisk av skrei (short-dried cod) and fish au gratin are two such authentic North Norwegian dishes. They always remain on the menu even though the other dishes are changed at least 5-6 times a year, according to season. Honesty and authenticity are two more keywords used to describe the dining experience at Emma´s Dream Kitchen. DOWN-TO-EARTH AND UNPRETENTIOUS Emmas UNDER is on the ground floor (street level). While the restaurant upstairs has a classic eleganse, in Emma´s Under they have captured the spirit of a time gone by and created a down-to-earth and unpretentious restaurant. One can enjoy a meal in relaxed surroundings at prices all can afford. These well composed weekday menus have been a success and are very popular with the folk in Tromsø. In the evenings, the dishes served in the Dream Kitchen are also available downstairs in Emmas UNDER. Fish au gratin has become the restaurant’s signature dish. This and many more light, quickly-served dishes are included on the lunch menu at very reasonable prices.
Reser vations: (+47) 77 63 77 30 www.emmas.as post@emmas.as 51
What was originally Tromsø’s first cinema is now an intimate, relaxed bistro, which specialises in using fresh local produce to serve honest, home-style meals that reflect the culinary history of Northern Norway.
Priding itself on its strong personal relationships with suppliers, Bardus is able to create inventive and ever-changing menus that surprise as well as satisfy. Using ingredients such as moose, reindeer, king crab, fresh fish and whale from the northern pantry allows Bardus Bistro to create a dining experience not to be missed.
Cora Sandels gate 4, opposite Public Library bardusbistro@gmail.com | +47 726 74 888
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presistapas.no
presistapas@gmail.com +47 77 68 10 20
At this tapas restaurant the focus is on casual dining, big flavors and easy service.
The interior is as relaxed as the staff, there are even some swings in place of seats which adds to the laidback atmosphere. But when it comes to the kitchen everything’s taken seriously. It serves a fusion of traditional Spanish tapas and northern Norwegian ingredients, think cured reindeer, King crab and klippfisk (Tradional Norwegian salted cod). Presis is just the place you want to visit after a day of exploring.
Storgata 36 above
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TROMSØ AIRPORT has several daily flights from Oslo (OSL), the Norwegian capital. Flight time from Oslo International Airport (OSL) is 1hr 50min. DIRECT FLIGHTS: GATWICK-TROMSØ The airline Norwegian has several direct flights each week. The fligtht time is 3 hr 25 min.
OSLO AIRPORT (Gardermoen) Approximate flight London 1 hr Ber lin 1 hr Rome 3 hr Madrid 3 hr Paris 2 hr Br ussels 1 hr
times: 20 min 55 min 10 min 45 min 25 min 55 min
Arctic Gateway In older times Tromsø was the connecting point for expeditions to the North Pole, for whalers in Arctic waters and trappers going to Greenland and other remote locations. The taverns of Tromsø were the last memory of civilization in the trappers’ mind when they left to stay alone in the wilderness through the long polar winter. Tromsø was also the first sight of civilization for fishermen and others coming from long journeys in the Barents Sea. Nowadays the city is a major hub for flights and ships, especially since there are no railways going this far north. From Tromsø you can fly up to Spitsbergen, close to the North Pole, or on charter routes to Turkey and Greece, which is quite unique for a city with a po-
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pulation of only 71,000. Tromsø is easy to access, with several daily flights from the international airport in Oslo, the Norwegian capital. The airlines SAS and Norwegian both offer low price tickets. Tromsø airport is located only a 10-minute drive from the city centre. In compact downtown Tromsø, you can choose between more than 15 hotels. It is therefore easy to find and book your accommodation, in various price ranges and within walking distance of the city ’s attractions. Lyngsfjord Adventure provides all necessary transport by minibus or bus from downtown Tromsø to the locations of the adventures, and these transfers are always included in our prices. You buy directly from the suppliers, so both the programme and price of your adventure holiday will fit your requirements perfectly.
Amedia Ressurs Harstad / Foto: Eva Stensland
Five Friends and a gastrobar After living and working overseas and in other parts of Norway, the five friends – Håkon, Bjørn, Marius, Gabriela and Thoralf – moved back to Tromsø in March 2015 to open their own gastrobar, Hildr. “We used about one and a half years to find the right concept and venue, namely Skansen in the northern part of downtown Tromsø. This is the old part of Tromsø with a history stretching all the way back to the 13th century!” explains Håkon.
The gastrobar’s name “Hildr” comes from the title of a book by Bernt Lie, who lived in the house in the late 19th century. Out of respect to this local author, the literary background is expressed in the bar area with a selfdeveloped library style. “We have removed several layers of wallpaper and panels from this historic building in order to find the old architectural treasures on the ceiling and walls. We then refurbished the building to create each of the rooms with a unique expression and style,” explains Marius.
Hildr combines several changes again. This third concepts under the same roof. concept features “fancier” For lunch you will be served a dishes designed for sharing, cocktails and Danish style open sandwich classic with local interpretations increased focus on the bar by chefs Marius and Thoralf. and nightlife. The lunch menu also features soups and homemade cakes. “We attach great emphasis m so .n o In the afternoon, Hildr’s to delivering quality. it tr oWe o g li © v is k S l ti je K dinner concept is a social F o to :are passionate about this affair, with pots on the and have a genuine interest table in good traditional in gastronomy. We put our heart and soul into this so we Norwegian style. can offer something really “Although the dishes are special to our guests from based on recipes from all all around the world,” says over the world, all the food Bjorn. is prepared using local ingredients,” says Marius. In the evening the style
ARCTIC URBAN WILDERNESS
opening hours // Monday: closed • Tuesday-Thursday: 11:00-01:00 • Friday-Saturday : 11:00-02:00 • Sunday: 12:00-17:00 Contact information // post@hildr.no • +47 416 07 779 • www.hildrgastrobar.com 57
Café Sånn is a lunch place that turns into an intimate bar in the evening. This is a typical speak-easy, with candlelit tables and vintage furniture. It offers a great mixture of live bands and speak-easy nights that have put it at the heart of the Tromsø nightlife. The bar has one of the best selections of beer, from all over the world. Open Mon-Thu: Friday: Saturday: Closed on Sundays
11:00 - 01:00 11:00 - 02:00 12:00 - 02:00
(kitchen close 18:00) (kitchen close 18:00) (kitchen close 17:00)
Location: See map in centerfold
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www.circa.as
The common thread running through everything Risø mat & kaffebar produces is ‘no artificial additives’: traditional, homemade north norwegian food, but with a modern twist. Fresh produce from the Arctic Ocean together with old favourites such as beetroot and cabbage, ingredients that have been used throughout many generations.
We provide a reasonably priced lunch with a varied seasonal menu, our speciality is the soup-of-the-day. However, we must not forget our coffee. Imported from many parts of the world such as Brazil, Ethiopia, El Salvador and Kenya, and served to be brewed at your table.
The coffee-menu offer a wide selection for our guests, costumed to the different seasons. We recommend you to combine the coffee with a cinnamon twirl or carrot cake, fresh and home-made. Welcome!
Hours of opening: Monday-Friday: 7.30am to 5pm / Saturday: 9am to 5pm / Sunday: Closed / www.risoe-mk.no 59
Amedia Ressurs Harstad
RISØ MAT & KAFFEBAR
Welcome to
Scandic Grand Tromsø Scandic Grand Tromsø, located in the heart of central Tromso, next to shopping outlets, restaurants and cafés. Only 3 km from Tromsø airport and public transportations within walking distance. FACILITY The Grand restaurant offers you a large breakfast buffet every day. Our Gründer Café & Bar serves lunch and dinner in a casual atmosphere. During the weekends it becomes a part of Tromso’s vibrant night life, and turns into popular Gründer by night. Our 4 meeting rooms are large and bright, with natural daylight and free WiFi. The biggest room has a capacity for up to 150 participants.
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”
THE STAFF WAS WELCOMING, THE BREAKFAST WAS AMAZING AND THE VIEW FROM OUR ROOM WAS INCREDIBLE! Livin4Vacati0n, Tripadvisor.com
BOOK: Phone: +47 77 75 37 77 • Fax: +47 77 75 37 78 • E-mail: grandtromso@scandichotels.com 60
WEB: www.scandichotels.com
a declaration of love SMØRTORGET was the hub of activity for over 200 years, Smørtorget was where butter and dairy products were sold in the 1800s, and where Tromsø’s first roundabout was located. Today, the buildings of Smørtorget have been revived, and filled with love to comprise a lively artistic environment. Here you can meet artists and designers at work, search second-hand stores for great bargains, and enjoy the smells and flavours of homemade pastries at the centrally located Smørkringla Cafe. IN 2013 Smørtorget came back to life, when six
women took the initiative to create a common square: the new Butter Market. By establishing the new Smørtorget, the desire was to contribute to new life in the square. The old market has a long tradition of exchanging, trading and socializing, and the co-location of several businesses has hel-
ped to maintain the feeling of a market. The vision was to create a vibrant atmosphere with artistic and creative activity, scents from the café blending with exciting products of the shop. You can enjoy a cup of coffee, a painting from the watercolour artist featuring motives from the Tromsø area or handmade jewellery or dresses from the local designers, all at the same place. It even has a thrift shop with interior from the city.
TODAY , Smørtorget is the result of love for old
objects and a fascination with modern influences. Used furniture stands side by side with modern elements. Local products are made in these inspiring environments. Opening hours: 07.30 - 17.00 Monday to Saturday Smørtoget, Sjøgata 11, 9008 Tromsø www.facebook.com/Smortorget 61
Othere’s Journey Explorations of the first North Norwegian
In the late 9th century, a man named Ohthere (or Ottar in Norwegian) visited King Alfred the Great of Wessex. He told the king that he lived “north-most of all Norwegians”. Othere’s descriptions of the life in the northernmost part of the Viking ’s world, about different ethnic groups and travel routes, the aristocracy and trading places, make his account an invaluable contemporary source. Ohthere’s account Othere’s
Journey
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is one of our most important and most frequently cited sources from the Viking Age. Ohthere’s account is a contemporary account of the latter part of the 9th century AD. It has survived as an addition to an anonymous translation into an Anglo-Saxon, or Old English, version of a Latin historical book written early in the 5th century by Paulus Orosius called Historiarum Adversum Paganos Libri VII or Seven Books of History Against the Pagans. His work was a historical overview – from a Christian perspective – ranging from ancient Assyria to the author ’s own time. The work began with a brief geographical
overview. However, this overview only covered the part of the world that Orosius had personal knowledge of; namely Europe south of the Alps.
RECORDED BY SCHOLARS
In conjunction with its translation into Old English, and possibly also as part of King Alfred’s own programme of education, the original work was supplemented by a description of Europe north of the Alps. It is in this context that we find Ohthere’s account. It is believed that the account was recorded in writing by scholars at King Alfred’s court in connection with a journey Ohthere made at some stage during
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This article is written by Inger Storli. She is the head of the Department of Cultural Sciences at the Tromsø University Museum. Storli has a long list of publications on topics including the political conditions in Northern Norway from the 3rd to 10th century AD.
Original page from Othere’s journey in the Seven Books of History Against the Pagans.
Alfred’s reign, in the period between 871 and 891 AD.
LENGTHY VOYAGE
En route to England, Ohthere visited two of Scandinavia’s most important marketplaces, Skiringssal and Hedeby. Skiringssal was located in what is now the Norwegian county of Vestfold, while Hedeby was located in Schleswig in what is now Germany, just south of the border with Denmark. Details in the account can indicate that this was not the first time Ohthere completed a journey of this distance. He had also undertaken a lengthy voyage north and east, all the way to the White Sea, to explore
lands unknown and also due to the walruses, “because these are very fine bone in their tusks – they took some such tusks to the king – and their skin is very suitable for ship’s ropes”. Consequently, we can see for ourselves that the journey to the White Sea was undertaken before the journey to England precisely to obtain tusks that he could sell at markets, and which he also presented to King Alfred.
VIKING IN THE TRUE SENSE
No explanation is given in the text about Ohthere’s motives for travelling to England or for visiting King Alfred. The trading places were clearly among his intended
destinations, but we should not rule out the possibility that he also plundered when the opportunity arose. Admittedly his account contains no information about the Viking raids but, among the Vikings, dealings usually went hand in hand with plundering and robbery. In the Viking ’s world, travels were of great importance for a man’s good reputation and were crucial for his political and social position. The travels were quite simply part of their refinement and created clever and wise men. In that sense, Ohthere was a Viking in the true sense of the word.
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ROMSØ T IN N E H W S E IT S B E W USEFUL fo rm at io n yo u ne ed dus or al al le ng in g to ge t th e in iv
y be a bi t ch ei ng it, fe st Wh en in Tr om sø , it math e No rth er n Li gh ts an d th e ch an ce s of se ou t No rth er n No rab t rin g yo ur st ay : ab ou in -d ep th kn ow le dg e an d un de rs ta nd in g bo ok up da te s th at ev en ts or ma yb e mo re re ar e th re e we bs ite s wi th as so ci at ed Fa ce wa y an d th e Ar ct ic . He rin g yo ur vi si t to Tr om sø ! yo u ma y fin d us ef ul du
How to predict the Aurora
The Northern Lights Forecast is designed to maximize your chances of experiencing the Aurora in the Tromsø region of Northern Norway by using the calendar. Using meteorological and solar data spanning several years, the calendar will check the probability for Northern Lights
in Tromsø at any given time. But be aware: You need clear weather to spot the lights! The chances are best in the hours before midnight, and it is recommended to stay away from the bright city lights, which create a lot of light pollution.
northernlightsforecast.com
From Norse mythology to the Northern Lights At Bivrost.com, you can read numerous stories from the Arctic and about the Northern Light. At Bivrost, we want to share the legacy of the Arctic with you. The ancestors of the Norwegians, the Vikings, called the Northern Lights Bivrost. They regarded it as a magical path from our world to Asgard, the realms of the gods in Norse mythology. At the end of this shimmering Northern Lights bridge resided the gatekeeper Heimdall. By lighting red fire in Bivrost, he
What to do when in Tromsø Many travellers have only few days to experience a city or destination, which makes it crucial to get the best out of your visit! But how do you know where to find a unique café, a typical and traditional Arctic restaurant or a pub with a history? Is there a music festival or a band enter64
taining at the local bar? This is the website to find the best bars, restaurants, activities and attractions in Tromsø! The Facebook page provides weekly updates about events, festivals and special offers. You will also find the latest menus from the most interesting restaurants.
tromsoexperience.com
protected Thor, Odin and the other gods from trolls and other unwanted creatures. But Bivrost was something more. It was used as a bridge to the human world, where the gods went from Asgard down to Midgard where the Vikings lived. Today, Bivrost is still a symbol for a bridge, but in many terms: to the Norse world of myths and stories, to the history and culture, and to the people of the North.
bivrost.com
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EXPLORE AND ENJOY Tromsø Safari provides a wide range of scenic day and night tours embracing the natural beauty and culture of Tromsø and the areas around it in Northern Norway. Between the 5th of September until the end of March we take you to the best locations to observe the awe-inspiring Aurora Borealis or Northern Lights. Along with well informed English speaking guides and local hospitality on our Aurora Base Stations this trip will ensure that your stay in Tromsø will become an unforgettable experience. Our Base Station are available from the 1st of November until the 31st of March. NORTHERN LIGHTS SERVICE 1: BASE STATIONS In order to do this we have established four Base Stations which are located in different areas in order to cover different weather regimes. Here we have warm shelters (a traditional lavvo tent or a heated and cosy building), toilet facilities, campfires and benches outside. Pick-up: Radisson Blue at 18.30 hours and from Scandic Hotel at 18.45 hours. Guests staying at the Scandic Hotel must notify us in the booking if they would like to be picked-up there. Duration: 5-7 hours. Prices: Adults: ................................................ 950 NOK p.p. With hot meal: .......................... 1.175 NOK p.p. Children under 12 years old: 475 NOK p.p. With hot meal: .............................. 700 NOK p.p.
NORTHERN LIGHTS SERVICE 2: The Northern Lights Bus A minibus (16 seats) will bring you to the best spots around Tromsø to view the magic Northern Lights. The last season running the Northern Lights bus (2013 – 2014) we saw the Northern Lights on 82% of our tours. It is a fascinating way of finding the Northern Lights and enjoying the beautiful landscape, even in the dark of the Arctic Nights. Pick-up: Radisson Blu Hotel at 19.00 hours, from Scandic Tromsø Hotel (close to airport) at 19.15 hours. Guests staying at the Scandic Tromsø Hotel must notify us when booking if they would like pickup from there. Duration: 5-7 hours. Prices: Adults: ............................................1,250 NOK p.p. Children under 12 years old: 850 NOK p.p.
Office for information and booking: Radisson Blu hotel in the city centre Phone: +47 95303888 // E-mail: iinfo@tromsosafari.nososafari.no // Web: www.tromsosafari.no
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Nightlife Tromsø has a great variety of clubs, pubs and bars that have combined to give the city a cool and vibrant reputation. From speakeasy bars like Sånn to the club life scenes of Cirka, Tromsø has it all. The reason for the vibrant nightlife is that the city has a relatively large university (the world’s northernmost), combined with a dynamic research and development sector. It provides a wonderful mix of young and old, innovative and conservative people who meet at the city’s many venues on weekdays as well as at weekends. Tromsø has both DJ clubs and more intimate speakeasy bars, all concentrated within walking distance from the city centre.
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If you are looking for sophisticated and relaxed, Bardus Bar is for you. You can come here to have a cosy evening with friends or simply enjoy good time. Sometimes it fills up with jazz music and jazz lovers and the play continues until late.
Cora Sandels gate 4, opposite the Public Library open Monday to Saturday evenings
Tue - Thu 19:00-01:30 Fri - Sat 19:00-03:00
Storgata 36 www.circa.as
Bar Circa has a focus on Club Music, ranging from Soul, Funk & Dance to House and Electronic music, with guest DJ's from all over Scandinavia every weekend. The style and the interior is inspired by 50s and 60s Norway and gives a feeling that you are at a great home party. Check Cafè Circa on Facebook to discover more: concerts, board games evenings, language cafes and more... 67
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THE VIVIANNA TORUN COLLEC TION
S T O R G ATA 5 8 9 0 0 8 T R O M S Ø T L F 7 7 6 8 1 8 73 W W W.W I N T E R V O L D. N O F Ø LG O S S PÅ I N S TA G R A M & FA C E B O O K @ G U L L S M E D W I N T E R V O L D
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THE VIVIANNA TORUN COLLEC TION
THERE IS A LWAYS SOME THIN G SPECI A L WITH JEWEL L ERY A ND GIF T S WHI CH ME A NS JUST TH AT L IT TL E B IT E X TR A Wintervold, an independent local jewellers (goldsmiths) in Tromsø since 1984. We specialize in classic and modern design and top craftsmanship. We have an exciting range of jewellery from highly innovative and acknowledge norwegian and international designers. In today´s modern world, there is still a great demand for the combination of skilled, and exclusive design. Our jewellers provide professional and personal service. Wintervold is a combination of goldsmith and gallery where guality and service are a matter of course. Welcome! o p enin g h o ur s :
Monday - friday 9.30am - 5pm (late night thursday to 6pm) // Saturday 10am - 4pm Out of hours appointments by agreement
S T O R G ATA 5 8 9 0 0 8 T R O M S Ø T L F 7 7 6 8 1 8 73 W W W.W I N T E R V O L D. N O F Ø LG O S S PÅ I N S TA G R A M & FA C E B O O K @ G U L L S M E D W I N T E R V O L D
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Bl책st was established in 2002, and has become a natural stop for visitors to the Paris of the North. The owners blow glass at the workshop virtually every day, and it might be possible to see the transformation from molten glass to the most beautiful objects. Be aware, it will be as hot as a sauna. Production includes everything from drinking vessels of all kinds to vases and bowls for the more sculptural and unique items. All glass blowers participate in the formulation and design. Most likely, you will find something to your liking. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00 Saturday: 10:00 - 16:00 (Closed Dec 25 - Jan 5) facebook.com/nordensparistromso
Location: See map in centrefold
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The Polar Museum The history of Norwegian trapping, Arctic science and polar expeditions
Opening hours 11:00 - 17:00 (Aug 15 - Jun 14) 09:00 - 18:00 (Jun 15 - Aug 14)
Tromsø has long been an important base for many polar expeditions. The Polar Museum exhibits and presents this polar seafaring tradition. temporary exhibitions based on new and ongoing research in the Arctic region. The Museum is situated in a hist-oric Custom warehouse, which dates back to 1840s and has an idyllic location on the waterfront in the historic Skansen area.
EXHIBITIONS: ■ Overwintering in the Arctic ■ The trapper Henry Rudi who killed 713 polar bears ■ The first female trapper to winter in the Arctic – Wanny Woldstad ■ Seal hunting in the Arctic Ocean ■ The life and expeditions of Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen ■ Helmer Hanssen and Hjalmar Johansen, who accompanied Amundsen to the South Pole ■ Svalbard, Wilhelm Barents’ discovery of the region in the 16th century ■ Whaling in the 17 and 18th centuries and Russian overwintering. Address: Søndre Tollbodgate 11, 9008 Tromsø. Phone: (+47) 77 62 33 60 Web: www.uit.no/polarmuseet
Photo: Tomaz Wacko, Tromsø University Museum
Photo: June Åsheim
Tromsø has been the centre of seal hunting in North Norway, and the town was established as the “Gateway to the Arctic” in the late 1800s. At the museum you will meet men, women, vessels and equipment that were essential for life on the sea and in the Arctic. The Polar Museum also presents
POLAR MUSEUM 73
The city of Tromsø has always been a hotspot for polar expeditions. Several of the most famous polar heroes were trained by local trappers. Perhaps the best known polar hero is Roald Amundsen. Amundsen led his famous expedition in the race to reach the South Pole in 1911. His rival was the British explorer Robert Falcon Scott. Amundsen’s right-hand man was Helmer Hanssen from Tromsø. Hanssen was a navigator and a highly skilled musher. Since only a short distance remained, Hanssen made it seem as if his dogs were tired so that Amundsen would become the first man to reach the South Pole.
Polar Heroes
THE TRAGEDY
Englishman Scott and his companions reached the South Pole a month later. They died on the way back from disappointment, cold, exhaustion and scurvy. Hanssen was full of admiration for Scott ’s achievement and thought that in terms of sheer willpower his expedition was far greater than the Norwegian expedition. Scott and his crew pulled the heavy sledges themselves for great distances, while the Norwegians had learned from the Eskimos and used dogs to pull their sleds. Describing Amundsen’s expedition, Hanssen wrote in his memoirs: “Amundsen’s brilliant planning, our comrades’ careful preparatory work and our dogs’ endurance had made the journey into a recreational trip.”
AMUNDSEN DIES
Like the other famous explorers, Amundsen learned seamanship from Tromsø’s many trappers. Most of his polar expeditions started in Tromsø, including what proved to be his final expedition - a rescue mission to save his Italian colleague, Umberto Nobile. Nobile went missing in the far north in 1928. Amundsen went on a rescue mission using a sea-
Polar Heroes 74
plane. The plane was last seen as it took off from the port of Tromsø in June 1928. No one has been able to find the wreck of Amundsen’s seaplane, but Nobile was found in good shape. When he arrived in Norway, the grief of losing Amundsen
was felt so badly that Nobile did not step onto Norwegian soil. A landing from a ship was added directly into the train that transported the Italian out of the country.
Robert F. Scott
Fridtjof Nansen
Helmer Hanssen
Roald Amundsen
Roald Amundsen (L), Helmer Hanssen, Sverre Hassel and Oscar Wisting. Photo taken by the team’s fifth member Nils Bjaaland.
TRICKERY
The great explorer and Nobel Peace Prize winner Fritdjof Nansen also had Tromsø as a starting point. Nansen financed an expedition for Amundsen to conduct research in the Arctic. Amundsen had other plans,
and just after the ship had left the dock he told the crew that the destination was the South Pole. Nansen never forgave Amundsen for this, although the South Pole expedition was a success. Ironically, Scott is the reason
we can state with certainty that Amundsen’s expedition was the first to reach the South Pole. The finding of Scott ’s tent, and thereby Scott ’s diary and photographs of Amundsen’s tent, provides the proof that Amundsen had been to the South Pole.
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VISIT THE ARCTIC AQUARIUM Hilde’s watercolours are much sought-after, and it’s easy to understand why the light of her landscapes mesmerizes so many people. She has an extraordinary to express Polaria ability has an Arctic aquarium, herself accurately through her watercolours and to expressknowledge-based the true interesting exhibits, fascination she herself must find in her native landscape a panoramic cinema, a gift and souvenir dAGfInn bAkke Gallery Dagfinn Bakke, Svolvær
shop and a cafeteria.
In our panoramic cinema, you can look forward to the Ivo Caprino film ”Svalbard Arctic Wilderness”. A little auk takes you on With small abstract measures, Hilde takes us quite to trip reality. an close airborne with you in a helicopter, along She makes us see the light and reflections of nature in an intense way. the west coast of Spitsbergen - the largest Hilde Sletvold masters watercolours in the most elegant manner. island in the group known as Svalbard. We also show the film ”Northern Lights in eLenoR mARTInsen Arctic Norway”. In this film, the famous Gallery Hole Artcenter, Oslo Tromsø-photographer Ole C. Salomonsen show you Northern Lights as it can be in In all the years I have taught watercolour painting, Tromsø in his beautiful work. After the film, once in a while I come across someone who reallyvisitors standsareout. taken along the ”Arctic Walkway” One such person is Hilde Eilertsen Sletvold. where you can experience some of the She has a great talent for watercolours and as an elements educator. of Arctic nature and the research that is performed in these areas. ToRGeIR sCHjøLbeRG Highly recognized Norwegian watercolour artist and important mentor for Hilde
Dec 24 and 25: 13.00-16.00
TICKET PRICES (NOK) Adult: 125 / Children: 60 / Senior: 90 / Student: 70 / Family: 280 +47) 77 75 01 00 www.polaria.no 76
TRAINING AND FEEDING Training and feeding of the seals every day at 12:30 and 15:30
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PRICES & HOURS WINTER OPENING HOURS Sept. 1 - May 17: 10:00 - 17:00
In the aquarium, the main attraction are the bearded seals and the harbour seals. The bearded seal is an Arctic species, and they are very popular among children and adults alike, due to their quiet disposition and intelligent nature. The aquarium also has interesting exhibits of the most common species of fish and other bottom species you can find in the Barents Sea.
ARCTIC LIGHT
Wat erco lo ur pa in t in gs by Hil de eil ert sen sl e t vo l d
Hilde’s watercolours are much sought-after, and it’s easy to understand why the light of her landscapes mesmerizes so many people. She has an extraordinary ability to express herself accurately through her watercolours and to express the true fascination she herself must find in her native landscape dAGfInn bAkke Gallery Dagfinn Bakke, Svolvær
W W W. H I L D E S L E T VO L D. N O
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TOUR AND ACTIVITIES THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT / PROFESSIONAL HELP AND ADVICE
Items available for rental include: winter clothing, footwear, skis, snowshoes, ice skates, fishing equipment, plus much more! We organize daily activities from Tromsø city.
Opening hours: November 1st - April 30th, everyday 9am to 5pm tlf +47 975 75 875 • post@tromsooutdoor.no
www.tromsooutdoor.no 78
SNOWSHOEING Join us on a short snowshoeing trip in easy terrain. This tour is designed for people with little or no experience and is also perfect for families with children from 8 years old. Guided cross country skiing 3 hour tour / Pick-up at Tromsø Radisson Blu NOK 895 pp (min 2 / max 15) This tour is designed with novices and beginners in mind. We ski in flat terrain, mostly on prepared trails.
TheTromsø Outdoor crew is always ready to provide professional help and advice on what to do and what not to do, to enable you to experience most of what Tromsø and it’s surrounding areas have to offer.
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TROMSØ OUTDOOR We are the only rental shop in Tromsø providing equipment for most types of activities throughout the year. Here, you get professional assistance in choosing the right activity and the right equipment for your outdoor adventure in the Tromsø area. We provide pick up and delivery services to the hotels in Tromsø.
We mes ware those
WHALE SAFARI
Maxi-
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and
Whales, the giants of the ocean, visit the coast of Kvaloya outside Tromso every year. The most common whale species we see are the humpback whale, killer whale, pilot whale, harbor porpoise and sometimes the fin whale. It’s an experience you will never forget!
WHALE SAFARI
Depending on where the whales are, we will depart by boat from Tromsø harbour, or we transfer by bus to a harbour closer to the whales. We cannot give any guaranty that we will see them, but chances are very good as humpbacks and orcas come close to the coastline to feed during the winter season. They o en come close to the boat as they are very curious, so be prepared for big splashes. Remember to bring your camera, and you could take the shot of your life, not just of whales, but also of other wildlife like seals or sea eagles.
Duration: 4-6 hours Season: Daily from the 01-11-2015 until 31-01-2016. (depending on the whales we can start earlier or end later during the season). Pickup: Radisson Blu hotel: 09:00 hours. What is included? Guiding, special thermal and safety clothing, coffee/tea and cookies. Price: adults: 1.200 NOK p.p./ Children under 12 years: 600 NOK p.p.
WHALE WATCHING BY RIB BOAT
This trip is highly recommended for photo enthusiasts who want to come close to the water and the whales. We pick you up from the city center harbor by bus , once we reach the area where we see the whales, we sometimes have close encounters because they are curious and o en come close to have a look at us. We are always aware of safety and never scare or disturb the animals while they are feeding. However, this is the best way to get those amazing pictures. Duration: 4-5 hours Season: 27-10-2015 until 10-01-2016 (depending on the whales), with a minimum of 5 full paying guests. Maximum 31 guests (3 RiB boats) Pickup: Scandic Ishavshotel at 08:30 hours, Return: approx. 13:30 hours. What is included? Guiding, special thermal and safety clothing, coffee/tea and cookies. What to bring yourself: Warm clothes, warm jacket, good shoes, hat, gloves, camera with extra batteries and memory card. Price: Adults: 1.200 NOK p.p. Minimum age is 12. No special child prices
Office for information and booking: Radisson Blu hotel in the city centre Phone: +47 95303888 // E-mail: iinfo@tromsosafari.nososafari.no // Web: www.tromsosafari.no
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Regional Map 80
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History of Malange Mala means border in Old Norse. Malangen has long been a border fjord between the agricultural society and “the wilderness people” (the Sami) dating back beyond 1200 AD.
Malangen can also be called a melting pot because it the meeting place of three cultures: The Sami, Norwegian (Norse) and Kven (people of Finnish stock). Owing to the borderless culture of the Sami people, at some point they were forced to pay taxes to the Norwegian, Swedish and Russian governments.
MALANGEN AND THE PEOPLE
At the base of the fjord, we can see traces from the hunting folk who lived in the fjord. We believe that hunter-gatherers settled in these areas when the ice melted about 10,000 years ago. The rock carvings are about 4000 years old. From the 7th century, Norse settlements were established along the fjord, and many archaeologists believe that the Norse chief Ohthere lived here. He gained fame for visiting King Alfred the Great of Wessex in 890 AD. In the 12th century, Malangen was the border between the Kingdom of Novgorod and Norway, and the final border was settled on 3 June 1326. From the 16th century, Norwegian people moved from the south in search of land. They were later joined by immigrants from North Finland who came to Northern Norway to escape from poverty and hunger. This mixture of cultures sometimes led to violent acts - mostly between Norwegians and the Sami – but there was love too. There were intercultural marriages, including on the farm at Nordbynes. A wealthy Norwegian man from the south married a Sami girl here. As the generations went by, the three cultures melted together.
Malangen
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Map over Nordkalotten fra 1626
However, Skutvik, where Malangen Resort is situated, was the last bastion of the Sami people, even into the 19th century.
WHO OWNED MALANGEN?
This is a complicated question to answer briefly! In the 18th century, all citizens had rights on “their ” property. They entered into contracts with the landowner to use the land. Initially there were only two landowners: The King and the Church. After the Kalmar War in 1613, the Danish-Norwegian king controlled Northern Norway and Finnmark. From the 17th century, most of the Malangen was owned by the king. Only one farm was owned by the church, Forøy in outer Malangen. The users of the properties were a mix of Sami, Norwegians and Kvens.
During the mid 17th century, the king decided to sell part of his baggage, to relieve the debt resulting from years of war. One individual to whom the king owed most of the money, Joachim Irgens, received all the Crown land in northern countries in 1666. That is about half of all registered farms from Helgeland to Troms. In other words, from that day on the farms in our area belonged to the Danish landowner and businessman Joachim Irgens. After Irgens’ death, the estate was divided into several smaller parts. One of these included the Tromsø district (and Malangen), which was taken over in 1783 by Hans Andreas Moursund. His son and then grandson continued as landowners for nearly 100 years. Until approximately 1900, most of the goods sold to the users, i.e. the farmers in Malangen.
en Malangen is now a popular recreation area with many cabins.
This is what the old sawmill looks like now.
The Historic Sawmill The Aursfjordsaga (Aursfjord sawmill) was built in 1796 by Ingebrigt Eliassen.
Drawring of Sami people from 1673.
As soon as the landowner, Moursund, discovered this, he shut down the sawmill. A year later, Eliassen was allowed to saw timber for his own use, but not for sale. In 1818 Eliassen finally received a license to saw for other people. The license was issued by the Swedish king (Norway didn’t have its own king at that time). Using hydropower from the river and waterfall to power the
sawmill and produce timber panel boards for building houses was a huge advance for the settlers in Malangen and MĂĽlselv. In 1977 Arne Pedersen from Aursfjord began to reconstruct the sawmill. He is a direct descendant of Eliassen Thanks to his efforts, we now have a unique building that shows the first technological steps taken in Malangen. The sawmill is currently owned by the Midt-Troms Museum, and is open for demonstrations from May to October. It is still used to saw timber to build houses.
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THE AURORA DESTINATION OF TROMSO
Would you choose just anyone to chase a lion? Chasing the Northern Lights is no different. Malangen Resort is located in one of the most visited Northern Light hotspots in the Tromsø area.
“The Watch” enhances your opportunity of seeing the lights – your guide will be up until early morning every day ready to wake you up with our Aurora Alarm to make sure that a single nightly dance on the sky will not slip pass your eyes. Prepare yourself for an unforgettable journey in the majestic nature of northern Norway!
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The nights are dedicated for finding the Lights, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t enjoy the daylight hours as well! Drive your own team of huskies through the peaceful forest or feel the thrill of snowmobiling in some of the most amazing sceneries you could ever imagine.
MALANGEN RESORT ACTIVITIES Malangen Resort provides activities December 15 to April 15, with daily departures from Tromsø city center (Scandic Ishavshotel). We have only small groups, giving an intimate experience in the Malangen wilderness.
DOGSLEDDING
SNOWMOBILE SAFARI
SNOWSHOEING
an intimate group of eager huskies
up at the mountains where you’ll tra-
famous Norwegian explorers into the
briefing about this natural phenome-
just waiting to take you into the wil-
vel by our minibus in only 15 minutes.
untouched wilderness to experience
non and the current conditions before we set off on a chase to wherever the
Located near Camp Nikka, we have
Our snowmobiles are waiting for you
Follow the footsteps of the world
NORTHERN LIGHT WATCH We prepare for the journey with a
derness for this once in a lifetime
This unique snowmobile safari will
something unlike you’ve ever even
adventure. We will start the adventure
take you to an unforgettable journey
dreamt of before – the beautiful
light takes you.
with a lesson in how to manage your
through the majestic sceneries of the
silence of the snowy forest, the scent
Our experienced guides can help you
own husky team, drive in pairs with a
region. You will drive in pairs with a
of the smoke from the open campfire
to set your cameras to capture this
chance to change drivers in the hal-
chance to change drivers in the hal-
and if lucky, maybe even a glimpse
magical show on the sky on the best
fway and finish the excursion with a
fway and will stop somewhere along
of a willow grouse or a red fox in their
way possible and will continue the
delicious hot meal by an open fire. We
the way to have a hot meal and warm
daily routines. As you return from
chase long after you fall asleep.
have built our camp small enough so
drinks by an open fire.
the adventure, you will have much
If they spot the Lights, they will wake
there is no room for mass-tourism and
Our snowmobile safaris are only for
wider perspective of the local nature,
you up with a magical Sami song and
stress of any kind so you can concen-
adults and require a valid driving
lifestyle and of the skills needed in the
resume the chase.
trate on enjoying one of the best expe-
license.
wilderness. CAPACITY 12 PERSONS.
CAPACITY 16 PERSONS.
CAPACITY 15 PERSONS.
(only available with Accommodation)
(only available with Accommodation)
riences the far north has to offer! CAPACITY 16 PERSONS.
NOK 1595 ,- p.p.
10.15-15.30
NOK 1595 ,- p.p.
www.malangen.com
17.00-20.00
NOK 695 ,- p.p.
/// +47 77 65 58 00 ///
Amedia Ressurs Harstad
10.15-15.30
21.30-05.00
NOK 1650 ,- p.p.
booking@malangenresort.com
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Giants of the Sea The Arctic Ocean is the habitat for many different whales. The sea outside Tromsø offers several locations where there is a high probability of observing these large and majestic marine mammals.
Some of the best locations for whale observations are Sommarøy (see page 82), located west of Tromsø City, and of the coast of the large island Senja (see page 84), southwest of Tromsø. Both these locations offer the opportunity to join guided tours with experienced crews. The humpback whale and killer whale are the most common species found in shallow water close to the coast. There are also populations of smaller whales, several species of seal and a rich bird life. If you spend
Whales
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time along these shores during the daylight hours, eagle sightings are a daily occurrence.
THE HUMPBACK WHALE
The humpback whale, which reaches a length of between 15 and 18 metres, can weigh up to 50 tonnes. The female is a little bigger than the male. Humpback whales are easily distinguished from other whales by their 5 m long flippers and the hump on their backs. The bumps found on the head are called tubercles. Each tubercle contains a single hair follicle, similar to a cat ’s whisker. The humpback whale varies in colour from grey to black with white
markings on their underside. The varying patterns on the tail flukes are sufficient to identify individuals.Humpbacks sing some of the most complex animal songs ever recorded. The sounds consist of a complex series of whistles and deep calls sung in a specific order, which may last for several minutes or sometimes as long as half an hour. Their songs are not inborn – they learn them from each other. The whales feed on krill (small shrimp-like animals) and small fish and eat up to 1.5 tonnes of food a day. Their food is trapped to be swallowed by baleen plates, not teeth. These whales, like others, regularly leap from the water,
Humpback Whale
Killer Whale
Porpoise
landing with a tremendous splash. They are famous for their water acrobatics.
THE KILLER WHALE
The killer whale (Orcinus orca), also referred to as the orca or less commonly as the blackfish, is a toothed whale of the dolphin family. These whales are found in all the world’s oceans. A typical killer whale has a black back, white chest and sides, and a white patch above and behind the eye. Killer whales typically range from 5 to 8 metres in length and can weigh up to six tonnes. Some feed exclusively on fish, while others hunt marine mam-
mals such as sea lions, seals and walruses. Sometimes a group of killer whales might even attack other whales. Orcas are apex predators, meaning that they lack any natural predators. However, wild killer whales are not considered a threat to humans.
FAMILY GROUPS
Orcas (killer whales) live in family groups called pods, each containing up to 40 individual killer whales. A pod may contain up to four generations of orcas. A female gives birth to one calf every five years and on average produces a total of five calves. Interestingly, most males never leave
their mothers. The average life span of a killer whale in the wild is 50 to 80 years. The lifespan of killer whales in captivity is typically significantly shorter, usually less than 25 years. However, a few have reached their 40s. Killer whales have their own culture, since their hunting techniques and vocalisations are passed down generations. Each group of whales has a unique dialect of calls. In general, their language consists of three types of sounds: clicks, whistles and pulsed calls.
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Your first choice in Northern Scandinavia Take advantage of our local knowledge of the Arctic Area – and thirty years of experience as coach service operators.
Explore Northern Norway
Terminalgata 176, Tromsø • +47 4000 2196 • post@bussring.no • bussring.no • facebook.com/bussring 88
The Balsfjord is situated in the middle of the Troms County and runs more than 50 km inland from Tromsø. The fjord is surrounded by spectacular mountain chains that in several places are more than 1200 m high. In the southeast the fjord follows the Lyngen Alps, where some of the peaks reach over 1800 m above sea level. The bedrock is rich in lime and the hillsides are characterized by rich deciduous woods and a thriving agricultural landscape. A number of rivers and creeks flow into the fjord, especially into its inner half.
Opening hours Monday-Friday Saturday Sunday
Café 07.00-21.30 09.00-21.30 10.00-21.30
Reception 06.30-23.00 07.00-01.00 07.00-23.00
Our café serves traditional homemade food with “A taste of Balsfjord”. Our main focus there is on creating amazing dishes with local ingredients found throughout Balsfjord. In addition to that we also have 22 cosy hotel rooms and 10 studio apartments with the “at home feeling”. All our rooms and studio apartments have private bathroom, Wi-Fi access, cable TV and large breakfast buffet included in the room rate. Welcome to our hotel!
(+47) 77 72 23 00 www.vollangjestestue.no post@vollangjestestue.no
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Lyngen Alps
90
Vertical Landscape The Lyngen Alps are famous for off-piste skiing. You can literally ski from the summits down to the sea.
The wide chain of peaks starts out on the tip of the Lyngen Peninsula, between the two big fjords, the Ullsfjord and the Lyngen Fjord. The peninsula between the fjords is 15-20 km wide, and in both fjords mountains higher than 1000 m drop vertically down in the blue water.
100 KM LONG
The mountain chain continues on the peninsula, all the way to the Swedish border. This makes the Lyngen Alps more than 100 km long, depending on definition. Between the peaks, there are also more gentle hills and plateaus.
Here you find beautiful valleys, forests, cascading rivers, and countless lakes. Still the area is dominated by the wild peaks, several glaciers and deep ravines. The highest mountain, Jiehkkevarri, is 1833 m above sea level. And “above sea level� in the Lyngen Alps area means that the sea it self is the foot of the mountain.
ment, Lyngseidet, has a population of approximately 800. The wildlife is extraordinary, with whales, seals, white-tailed eagles and a wide variety of other bird species, as well as all kinds of Arctic mammals on land. You can catch cod, coalfish, wolf fish and haddock in the fjord. In the mountain lakes you can catch trout and Arctic char.
EXTRAORDINARY WILDLIFE
OFF-PISTE
The first signs of settlement are from the Stone Age, but the first churches in the area came as late as the 18th century. The population in the area today is still low and scattered. The largest settle-
The Lyngen Alps are famous for off-piste skiing. You can literally ski from the summits down to the sea. Several companies provide return transfers by boat to the most fabulous locations.
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The founders of Aurora Spirit: Tor Petter Christensen, Wiktor Sørensen and Hans-Olav Eriksen.
Opening a distillery While some turn to home brewing of beer, others take the production of homemade alcohol more seriously.
Several have formed limited liability companies that have started or are about to start making whiskey. One such company will soon start up outside Tromsø. Myken in Nordland has already commenced production, while Aurora Spirit in Lyngen near Tromsø will start production in January 2016. The story behind the Lyngen distillery is interesting in itself. Hans-Olav Eriksen was a general practitioner who started with adventure tourism – Lyngsfjord Adventure – in 2008. It soon became apparent that the tourism industry needed a quality standard, and Eriksen travelled to Scotland in 2010 to investigate their Quality Assurance scheme. The trip proved to be an eye opener.
material for the Scots’ most important product: whiskey. Hence, it was entirely transferable to the conditions in the cold north. Eriksen toyed with the idea of creating an Arctic whiskey, but others regarded this idea as a joke.
ARCTIC WHISKEY
However, there was one man who took him seriously: Tor-Petter Christensen, the director of a large industrial production in Lyngen, presented a plan of how to create authentic Arctic whiskey in majestic surroundings. With an abandoned NATO base from the Cold War as the base, Tor-Petter had visions of making whiskey with an international twist. According to the plan, the products would have an extract of the distinctive qualities of the Arctic: the North Norwegian history and culture, pure glacial water and herbs and berries from the Arctic wilderness among fjords and precipitous mountains. The distillery - Aurora Spirit RESEMBLES SCOTLAND - is scheduled for compleEriksen observed that the Scottish fauna, landscape and tion in January 2016. When nature had a striking simila- it opens, it will be able to welcome guests from around rity to where he grew up by the Lyngenfjord near Tromsø. the world for a visit and to gain an insight into the Arctic The nature was the raw heritage. 92
Reine, a small fishing village in Northern Norway.
North Norwegian drinking culture Despite its brutal weather, Arctic climate and harsh conditions for agriculture, people have lived in Northern Norway for several thousand years and, as a consequence, there is a distinctive drinking culture. The natives of Northern Norway clung to coastal rocks and deep fjords surrounded by massive mountains. In the winters the temperatures could drop to minus 30 °C in the inland, accompanied by violent storms and meagre summers. People survived by fishing, livestock farming and hunting moose and reindeer. In the autumn, they picked exotic berries and herbs in the wilderness. The Vikings had a long tradition of alcoholic beverages. Without the possibility of making wine, the Norwegians had make alcohol from grain. It was called mead. In Norse mythology, the god Odin stole mead from the giant Suttungr, which became the source of Odin’s wisdom. That led to the expression “thirst for knowledge” when one wanted to drink mead, a very subtle excuse to have a party.
UNIQUE TO NORWAY
Gradually, the Norwegians learned to heat mead to create stronger alcohol. The only unique spirit in Norway is aquavit. The first time it was described was in 1531 when the last Archbishop of Norway received a gift from an official, Bille, of “some water that is called Aqua Vite, which helps against all kinds of disease both internally and externally ”. Up to the 18th century, aquavit was based on grain, but it is now largely produced from potatoes mixed with herbs and spices from the Norwegian fauna.
DISTILLERY IN THE CELLAR
The people of Northern Norway used to make their own illicit
Caraway is used in the production of the Norwegian spirit aquavit.
spirits. As this was illegal, it took place in hiding in cellars, barns, outbuildings and attics throughout the towns and villages of Northern Norway. This was not unlike the culture in Scotland before alcohol production was legalised and directed towards whisky production in the late 18th century. Berries, herbs and vegetables were mixed into the drink to remove the worst taste of the brew.
BREWING BEER
Homemade fortified wine is still illegal in Norway, but that has not prevented the natives of Northern Norway from making alcohol in secret. To this day, there are still some who choose to make their own alcoholic drinks. If the North Norwegians do not do it themselves, there is a big chance that they have an acquaintance that does. Illicit distilling of fortified wine is associated with a risk of explosion. As a result, most choose to make weaker beverages, such as beer or wine. It ’s also completely legal to make such beverages at home. In recent years, the brewing of beer in particular has risen sharply in Norway. Several microbreweries have appeared and shops now stock more varieties of beer, but there are also several home brewers who produce beer for festive occasions – or just for a good party.
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L NGEN.com
VISIT LYNgEN AND THE ARcTIc LEgAcY Daily tours from Tromso to the Aurora Spirit distillery or maybe an outdoor hot tub experience at the Arctic frontier! The Lyngen Alps is famous for offpist skiing in autumn, combined with seafishing in Summertime. Årøybukt and the 3 tribes The distillery of Aurorta Spirit is localized at Aroybukt, a small bay with a fantastic view of the Arctic wilderness. The area has a long history of settlements. There are proof of people living here since the Stone Age, 6000 years ago. The people survived by a rich vegetation with berries and hunting on wild animals. But most important: fishing, like cod and halibut.
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In the Viking age around 1000 AD, three different tribes lived in the area of Aroybukt: Norse settlements, sami people and kven. It was called the meetingplace of the three tribes. The Norse had wooden huts and combined fishing with agriculture. Sami was a nomadic people living in lavvus (tipis), travelling from the inner parts of Lappland in winter to the coast in summer, following the reindeer herd. Kven, originally from Lapland Finland, settle along the coast in gamme, a wood construction covered with soil as a roof.
NATO Base In modern times, Aroybukt became a symbol of the Cold War, because of the establishment of an important NATO base. How and why? Learn more in our NATO base Experience. There are several other services available in the Lyngen area, to stay over and to experience the Arctic legacy. We have both daytime tours and the opportunity to stay over in Lyngen. The team is on site to give you a very personal experience, guiding you through our Arctic stories and legacy.
OpENS wINTER 2015-2016
DAYTIME TOURS
STAY OVER IN LYNgEN
• Depature from Ishavshotellet Scandic in city center. Arrival back in Tromsø, Polaria. • Tours finish at the Polaria Experience center in Tromsø, with a complementary entrance ticket to Polaria. • All day tours include a meal, celebrating the cuisine of Northern Norway, served in the distillery cafe.
2-10 pers | Price: NOK 3 295 pp • Included: two tours and accommodation at Sørheim Brygge, all meals and transfers. • Arrival back in Tromsø: 10.00 next day.
Tour A:
Visit to Aurora Spirit Distillery 2-20 pers | Price: NOK 1 495 pp A visit to Aurora Spirit provides insight into the world’s northernmost distillery, giving the story of the Arctic life, people and history. During the tour, you get guiding about how whisky, vodka, gin and aquivit is made, information about local ingredients with tasting, and an option of tasting of different brands. AuroraSpirit makes products from melting glacier water and botanicals grown above the Arctic circle.
The NATO base experience 2-10 pers | Price NOK 1 495 pp We take you back to the Cold War, visiting one of the most important NATO bases in Northern Europe. Due to the cold war, Nato made Aroybokt a core of an important defense line called the Lyngen line. The plan was to stop a feared Russian invasion with canons on a strict line, due to the massive mountain formations and the deep fjords. You will be given insight into the Cold War, the Lyngen line and the role of Aroybukt during WW2.
Transfer to Sorheim Brygge at Lyngseidet, with arrival at 15.00. You will have a private apartment at the Harbor of Lyngseidet, a small village with a long history as a trade station in the Arctic. At 20.00, there will be a Northern Lights photo course during the
evening meal, before we head off, hunting for the Aurora among the Lyngen Alps! Nothing is like a shot of the lady Aurora with the majestic surroundings of Lyngen. After Breakfast day 2, you might choose between outdoor hot tub (Tour C), NATO-base Experience (tour B) or just relax in the village of Lyngseidet. You have to preorder if you want to do tour C or B day 2. Transfer back to Tromsø at 14.30 with arrival 16.00.
Driving to Lyngen yourself? Find routes and book experiences at www.lyngen.com
Amedia Ressurs Harstad
Tour B:
The overnight stay starts off with the visit to the Aurora Spirit distillery (Tour A), providing an insight into the world’s northernmost distillery, giving the story of the Arctic life, people and history. The tour finish with serving of a menu celebrating the cuisine of Northern Norway.
Tour C:
Hot tub at the Arctic frontier 2-4 pers | Price NOK 1 495 pp With a panoramic view of the Lyngen Alps, you submerge yourself in comfortable 38 degree water. With the areas tranquility and spectacular surroundings of the Arctic wilderness, you will have a once-in-a-lifetime experience! Three units of beverage is included in the tour.
Combinations are possible. Prices and booking: www.lyngen.com
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A
rctic photographer Ole Salomonsen’s long commitment to photography in the Arctic has given him a unique insight into photography in these conditions, not to mention knowledge of the region and this part of the world. In time his work has become a major branded article for Tromsø and the region. For many years Norway’s national tourism authority, Visit Norway, has used Salomonsen’s films to showcase the most outstanding the region has to offer to potential tourists and visitors. In this article, Salomonsen shares advice that will help you to take better photos in the Arctic Light.
Arctic Light
CAPTURING TWO SEASONS
Trying to put all this beautiful light into words is difficult. It ’s something you simply have to experience. It begins with the onset of autumn in September signalling the arrival of the Northern Lights and darkness and ends with the return of daylight and the Midnight Sun in April. Capturing photos of the Northern Lights together with the colours of a sunset is simply amazing, and for many this is the ultimate photo (check out the cover photo). Perhaps this is because capturing two seasons in the same photo is so exotic to achieve.
GOLDEN HOUR
During the winter, the sun disappears for a two-month period (in Tromso from 27 November to 21 January). This period is widely known as the Polar Night, but this name is somewhat misleading because it ’s never completely dark during the day although the sun is always below the horizon. In fact, it is before, during and after the Polar Night that the most beautiful Arctic winter light appears in all its glory. During this period, you can experience that white mountains turning pink from the low sun combined with a purple, pink or bright red sky. The so-called “golden hour ” is a popular time for photographers as it provides the most magical, best light. At these northern latitudes, this “golden hour ” extends for many hours and often a whole day. In addition, this Arctic light is more beautiful than any other light or sunset, especially as a backdrop to
Arctic Photo
96
Ole Salomonsen recently completed a two-week expedition around Svalbard and into
the Arctic nature, leaping whales, mountains and dead calm fjords.
THE RIGHT LIGHT
In other words, this long period of low sun and the absence of sunlight provide the basis for wonderful Arctic light by day, complemented by the dancing Northern Lights by night. It is
simply amazing for photographers and is something that people can quickly become addicted to. Take me for instance. The very best foundation for great photos is the right light. This applies no matter what type of photography you are doing. If you visit our region, you will be in a unique position to ex-
Photography To some the term Arctic light is synonymous with the Northern Lights. But to award-winning nature photographer and film maker, Ole Salomonsen (43), it is a collective term for all the magical light you can experience in the Arctic – or north of the Arctic Circle – in winter.
the pack ice hunting photos of polar bears and Arctic nature. Photo: Ole Salomonsen
perience and photograph possibly the world’s most beautiful light.
MILD CLIMATE
As well as being wonderful, the Arctic Light in the north of Norway is also easily accessible. Northern Norway and Tromsø have an extremely well developed infrastructure with an internatio-
nal airport just a short drive from all amenities, many hotels and many activities and guides. Perhaps most important of all, despite being situated so far north Tromsø has a relatively mild climate. This mild climate may be attributed to the Gulf Stream that warms the entire coast year-
round. Another advantage of Tromsø as a base for hunting the Arctic Light is the convenient location and proximity to both the coastal and inland climates. If the weather is poor and cloud is forecast on the coast, you are only 1-2 hours away from the colder inland climate which often leads to better weather.
Continues on page 98 >>> 97
Northern Lights photography – When and where? Location, location, location. This basic rule of photography remains just as relevant as ever. The coast of Troms County offers everything you could wish for a wonderful landscape photo: fjords, mountains, valley, frozen lakes and snowcovered trees. The possibilities are only limited by
Arctic Photo
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your own imagination. Spend time before you come to find good locations and mark them on your map. You can photograph the Northern Lights here from September to March. Each of the periods has their own charm. Some people prefer full winter and snow, while others prefer the autumn darkness and silhouettes. Sometimes the Northern Lights are stronger round the autumn and spring equinoxes, but the entire season provides good opportunities to take good photos of the Northern
Lights. It ’s a good idea to plan by using websites with long-range Northern Lights forecasts. This is achieved by monitoring so-called coronal holes on the surface of the sun. Such holes cause strong Northern Lights and often follow the sun’s 27-day rotation. Don’t be afraid to use the moon when planning to photograph the Northern Lights. Some moonlight helps to illuminate the foreground, which is often be too dark.
The basics
Shooting photos in a cold environment can be demanding, but you lay a better foundation if you come well prepared. Some people opt to hire a guide to show them around, while others prefer to explore and travel around on their own by car. Many good guides are available who will do their utmost to ensure you get great photos. However, for many it ’s best to explore independently with the freedom that provides. In that case, the first thing to do is to learn a bit about the region. Surf the internet, look at other people’s photos and note down nice locations and how to get there. Basically landscape photography in winter is no different to in summer. It ’s all about capturing the right light and the moment, which can require waiting, time and patience. Consequently, having the right clothing is particularly important in winter. You need warm, windproof and waterproof clothes, while good footwear is a must. Even though Tromsø’s climate is relatively mild, you will feel it in your legs if you have to stand outside for hours on end waiting for the Northern Lights to appear. A warm jacket and hat are of little help if you if your legs are freezing. This will spoil your evening and in many cases you will need to head back.
The technical stuff
Luckily, you don’t need the best equipment in the world to photograph the Northern Lights or winter light. Unwritten rules and customs
Unwritten rules include showing consideration with headlamp and vehicle lights and not leaving any rubbish. When you visit places like Tromsø for photography, it ’s important to be considerate to others. If you are driving a car, so remember to switch off the motor and lights. There may be other photographers nearby who you don’t see, and you run the risk of inadvertently damaging their photos by unnecessary use of headlamps and car lights. Be considerate to others and nature. Remember to leave nothing but footprints and to take all rubbish with you when you leave.
Good equipment certainly helps, but it ’s not essential. Most modern cameras are equipped for taking good photos in winter conditions. The most important feature is the aperture, which determines how much light enters your camera. The aperture or brightness is described by an f-number, which should be f/2.8 or less. By reducing the f-number, you increase the light intensity. The following equipment is important for taking successful photos of the Northern Lights and winter light: • Good camera and lens • Tripod and tripod mount • Remote shutter release • Extra battery • Extra memory card
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Tips for landscapes and the Northern Lights Try to create a good composition at your chosen location. You won’t always get the Northern Lights where you want, but be patient.
Arctic Photo 100
A well composed landscape in which the Northern Lights are one of the
elements is nicer than a Northern Lights photo in which the landscape is clearly secondary. Remember to set your camera before you head out. Use manual settings, the widest possible aperture and infinity focus. You can use tape to lock the focal length and focus. It ’s easy to touch these settings when you are out in the darkness, which can lead to damaging your photos. A typical lens used for
Northern Lights photography is a 14 mm wide angle and fast aperture of f/2.8. Be careful not to overexpose the highlight values so the Northern Lights appear burned out. Moreover, don’t be afraid to use a high ISO value. A photo with a little image noise due to high ISO is often better than a photo with unnecessarily long exposure.
Tips for whales
If you are photographing whales in the Arctic light, it’s important to use a fast shutter speed. As with Northern Lights photography, you should not be afraid to use a high ISO. A wide aperture is important. A typical lens used for this type of photography is 70-200 mm and an aperture of f/2.8. You can also use a lens with an aperture of f/4.0.
This article is written by Ole Salomonsen. He is an award-winning nature photographer and film maker based in Tromsø, Norway. Ole has hunted the Arctic light with his camera for the past decade and his images and films have been seen by millions around the world. In particular, his films and images of the Northern Lights have attracted international attention with his work being used by international heavyweights such as BBC, Apple, NASA, National Geographic, Discovery Channel and CNN to name but a few. Many consider Salomonsen to be among the very best in the world in his field. You can see more of his work at: arcticlightphoto.no
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Camp Tamok is located in the Tamok Valley, a 75-minute drive from downtown Tromsø. This is the wilderness camp belonging to Lyngsfjord Adventure. It consists of several lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tents), timber cabins, an outdoor hot tub and sauna, toilet facilities, a husky yard and a reindeer enclosure. There is no plumbing or electricity. The heating and lighting is by open fire, wood stoves and oil lamps. It is primitive, but accordingly authentic and genuine, with a special atmosphere. It is never impersonal, as there are only guided tours with a limited number of guests and staying at the camp is an Arctic experience in itself.
EXCURSIONS
In wintertime the camp is the starting and ending point for excursions by dog sled, snowmobile and reindeer sled. The trails start from the camp and lead into wilderness areas with no signs of human activity. The camp’s large lavvu and main cabin are where the hot meals are served after sledding, ski school, snowshoeing and other winter excursions. Camp Tamok is located in an area with optimal conditions for experiencing the Northern Lights. Although Camp Tamok is located only a 75-minute drive from downtown Tromsø, it is in a different and drier climate zone, with clear inland mountain weather. The dry climate generates many cloud-free night skies in winter, as well as during summer.
GOOD SNOW CONDITIONS
The camp’s location away from the bright artificial lights and inhabited areas makes it perfect for your own Arctic experience - especially also for taking photos of the Northern Lights. Camp Tamok is of course the destination for a guided Northern Lights visit. You can also choose to spend the night at the wilderness camp. The camp is situated 280 m above sea level, with stable snow conditions. You can often go dog sledding in the period October-May, when down at sea level is often no snow at all at the same time.
Camp Tamok
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Life in the
Wilderness
103
OVERNIGHT PROGRAMME
Lyngsfjord Adventure, unlike other adventure providers, gives you the opportunity to tailor your own experiences. Would you like to spend a day at Camp Tamok with adventures daytime and evening, or rather spend a night in the camp with evening and daytime adventures? Just pick and choose the adventures and accommodation options that you prefer and we will handle the rest. All overnight programmes include an evening adventure and a daytime adventure the following day - three experiences in one.
On our website you may choose the excursions and accommodation option you prefer. You may sleep in a heated lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent), a timber cabin or in a private chalet (small heated wooden hut for two people. INCLUDED: ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ 3 meals (2 hot) ■ Insulated body suit ■ Winter sleeping bag ■ English-speaking guide RECOMMENDED: ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended)
OVERNIGHT PROGRAMME Season: November 15 – March 31 Minimum:
Two guests
Departure: 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return:
16:00 the following day
Duration:
19.5 hours + transport, 23 hours total
Price:
Depends on choice of excursions Children 4-15 years: 50% discount
Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 104
FULL-DAY ADVENTURE
Lyngsfjord Adventure, unlike other adventure providers, gives you the opportunity to tailor your own experiences. Would you like to spend a long day at Camp Tamok with adventures daytime and evening, with a meal and rest in between? Just pick and choose the adventures that you prefer and we will handle the rest. The “Full-day Programme” includes a daytime adventure, interesting time spent at the camp and then an evening excursion with chance of seeing the Northern Lights - three experiences in one.
On our website you can choose the excursions you prefer. In addition to a meal in between the adventures, you will have access to cabins, tents and snowshoes. INCLUDED: ■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■ 3 meals (2 hot) ■ Insulated body suit ■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■ Access to snowshoes ■ English-speaking guide RECOMMENDED: ■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given
FULL-DAY ADVENTURE Season: November 15 – March 31 Minimum:
Two guests
Departure: 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel, downtown Tromsø. Return: 24:00 Duration:
11.5 hours + transport, 15 hours total
Price:
Depends on choice of excursions Children 4-15 years: 50% discount
Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)
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Amedia Ressurs Harstad
Welcome to a comfortable and pleasant hotel in the heart of Tromsø, and with reasonable prices. Well situated in the city centre and just a short distance from most of Tromsø’s shops, restaurants and activities. Our wish and priority is that your stay with us is most enjoyable. All our rooms are well equipped with cable tv, coffee and tea kettles, trouser press with iron, hairdryer and minibar. There is wifi access throughout the hotel and a PC for guests available in reception. From 1pm (2pm Sundays) to 5:30pm you can bake your own waffles. Coffee and tea are generally always available.
In the heart of Tromsø! 106
Contact info: post@amalie-hotell.no www.amalie-hotell.no +47) 77 66 48 00
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Amedia Ressurs Harstad
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Sales desks in Tromsø
At POLARIA and TROMSØ SAFARI (at Radisson Blu Hotel), you will find the sales desks for all adventures provided by LYNGSFJORD ADVENTURE. TROMSØ BY HELICOPTER
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